You are a very good educator. Your instruction is simple, detailed and thorough. Keep making high quality videos to pass on to our youth. Thank you, sir.
@@LakesideAutobody Auto Repair is right. You're a very good educator. Everything you say is important w/o any ego and non sense. A person should skip about your videos.
Much appreciation. I always learn from Your expertise. I have been doing PDR and paint repair for the car Dealerships for 25 years. Recently a Dealership gave Me a bay to set up in, ( rent free) doing paint work. I'm learning small to medium rust repair, especially good ol trucks with rust around the rear wheel arch. I live in Alaska and the salt the roads heavily. 😊
Thanks for taking your time and explaining your process great details and camera shots. I you have rust that resorted in only a couple pin holes maybe the biggest being no larger than the size of a erasure on a pencil, and they have been sanded/ground out and the metal is still pretty good, what would You use to fill that area if it doesn't have to be cut out. fiberglass then a lightweight filler, maybe Led?
Great ?. I would grind it clean with some nice sharp 36-40 grit. Tap it down a bit so that the holes aren't right at the surface (about 1/8" to 1/4") then fill with bondo glass. Do it just like this video and you should be ok for quite a while: th-cam.com/video/rPTaeH056ng/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps - Jerry
I have to put quarters on a 55 chevy car please do a video on cutting off and installing quarter panels, you have a great video collection going keep up the good work. thank you!!
Man you do great work! That edge is straight and I was thinking if I did that (as my dad would say) it would be crooked as a dog's hind leg. LoL Seriously another great video and I have to give it a try.
That's funny. I like dad sayings. My dad would say, "That's rougher 'n a cob - sand it again!" Thanks for the comment Phillip - have a great week my friend :)
It's probably around the same price. Myself, I'd rather have someone repair than replace. It just seems the inside of the door is never right after someone takes all those parts out and transfers them to another door. It's never done exactly the way the factory did it - just my opinion though.
I wouldn't hurt but some of it would get burned off during the welding process. This video may help with rust control after the finished job - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html
If you have mechanical abilities, yes. I think it wouldn't be that difficult. If you have questions as you go - just ask. I get to the comments 1-2 times a day :) Do you have a welder?
@@LakesideAutobody no I don’t be I want to get one. I’m in the Bahamas and I just opened a body shop. I’m shopping around for welders and frame machines without breaking the bank. Quick start up equipment until business really grows
I would think that edge warped you tacked it like 10 times in the same spot in a short time span. Cutting the replacement would have been the most useful part to share.
Yep - exactly. Plus the pinch welds get filled with salt water and rust very quickly. Need to throw some used motor oil in the door panel when it's new - it'll never rust down there.
@@LakesideAutobody I’m looking at fixing my rockers on my Cherokee and I have two doors with some rust on the bottom. A buddy of mine told me to mix used oil and candle wax and put it in the rockers… he’s a MG guy and says that’s how they do it in England… sounds legit!
@@Deadbuck73 Works like a charm - this is how I've done it for years - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html Just motor oil works for me because I don't want to clog the small drain holes at the bottom of the panels. Make sure you have drainage and there's something to protect the pinch welds at the bottom of panels :)
With respect, not true - all body shops in MI do it this way for a good reason. I use a combination of both lap and butt on almost every patch but I would never just butt two pieces of metal up, weld it, then grind away at the area attempting to metal finish it for many reasons but here are two: th-cam.com/video/MfKlNQF-o4I/w-d-xo.html - th-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/w-d-xo.html Also today’s metal is .030. That is literally 6 hairs (hair is .005) thick. You start grinding on that and voila paper thin metal and welds. Both methods work well if done properly so in the end it’s what works for you.. Keep in mind, you won’t find anyone butt welding in professional shops. Surely you’re not going to butt weld and metal finish this: th-cam.com/video/36zkc9UQaTs/w-d-xo.html or some of my other rust repair videos. Use small overlap - weld solid - no moisture - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside too. Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html or th-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody I have never done production work, so i can see the speed advantage in a shop. I always butt weld and metal finish if possible. That being said i am a hobbyist and speed is not a concern.
You are a very good educator. Your instruction is simple, detailed and thorough. Keep making high quality videos to pass on to our youth. Thank you, sir.
Thank you so much - I'm glad you like them and I will keep trying to make good educational videos.
@@LakesideAutobody Auto Repair is right. You're a very good educator. Everything you say is important w/o any ego and non sense. A person should skip about your videos.
@@robbyddurham1624 Thank you and I appreciate the support. Have a great week :)
Much appreciation. I always learn from Your expertise. I have been doing PDR and paint repair for the car Dealerships for 25 years. Recently a Dealership gave Me a bay to set up in, ( rent free) doing paint work. I'm learning small to medium rust repair, especially good ol trucks with rust around the rear wheel arch. I live in Alaska and the salt the roads heavily. 😊
Feel free to ask any ?s - easy or hard. Sometimes it's the ones that are the easiest sounding that go unanswered for years :)
Thank you for the addition of the inner structure
You're welcome :)
Thanks for taking your time and explaining your process great details and camera shots. I you have rust that resorted in only a couple pin holes maybe the biggest being no larger than the size of a erasure on a pencil, and they have been sanded/ground out and the metal is still pretty good, what would You use to fill that area if it doesn't have to be cut out. fiberglass then a lightweight filler, maybe Led?
Great ?. I would grind it clean with some nice sharp 36-40 grit. Tap it down a bit so that the holes aren't right at the surface (about 1/8" to 1/4") then fill with bondo glass. Do it just like this video and you should be ok for quite a while: th-cam.com/video/rPTaeH056ng/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps - Jerry
I have to put quarters on a 55 chevy car please do a video on cutting off and installing quarter panels, you have a great video collection going keep up the good work. thank you!!
You're welcome. Glad you enjoy them.
Great video! I imagine it's alot of extra work making them, so thank you!
You're welcome - glad they help
Wow! You make this look simple! Just found your channel and I’m learning and enjoying! Where can I get the metal?
I get it from Alro Steel here in Grayling, MI. www.myalro.com/SmartGrid.aspx?PT=Steel&Clear=true I get the carbon steel sheet A1008 CR 20 gauge or 22
Thank you for the video. I was looking for a way to fold over my door edge and you provided an answer.
Glad I could help :)
Man you do great work! That edge is straight and I was thinking if I did that (as my dad would say) it would be crooked as a dog's hind leg. LoL Seriously another great video and I have to give it a try.
That's funny. I like dad sayings. My dad would say, "That's rougher 'n a cob - sand it again!" Thanks for the comment Phillip - have a great week my friend :)
Great video,great teacher!
Thank you so much for the kind words Glenn - I appreciate the support :)
I have 2 questions if you don't mind what kind of welder you're using and what thickness of sheet metal should I use to make a patch sir?
The welder is a Miller - Millermatic 90 - 115v - The thickness of the metal I use for patches is .030 inches or about 22 gauge - hope that helps
Thanks for all the great videos.
You are very welcome Daniel - glad you enjoy them :)
I do like your technique.
Thanks Mark 😊
That’s pretty good, how much would a repair like that cost vs just replacing the whole door?
It's probably around the same price. Myself, I'd rather have someone repair than replace. It just seems the inside of the door is never right after someone takes all those parts out and transfers them to another door. It's never done exactly the way the factory did it - just my opinion though.
Great video and info. Thanks!
Thanks Fred :) You're welcome too.
Great Video
Thanks for the support Jamie - have a good weekend :)
Would priming the inside of the patch help with rust in the future?
I wouldn't hurt but some of it would get burned off during the welding process. This video may help with rust control after the finished job - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html
110 or 220 welder? i assume a 110 but wanted to ask since it burnt thru ur metal? lmk if you should see this post
110 - does everything I need it to do
thanks
where can i buy those bottoms for a 80’s ford mustang?
millsupply.com or raybuck.com - maybe
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for responding 👍🏿😂
Which welder do you have?
I have a Miller Millermatic 90 in this video - 80/20 gas with .023" wire.
@@LakesideAutobody would you recommend this for beginners?
If you have mechanical abilities, yes. I think it wouldn't be that difficult. If you have questions as you go - just ask. I get to the comments 1-2 times a day :) Do you have a welder?
@@LakesideAutobody no I don’t be I want to get one. I’m in the Bahamas and I just opened a body shop. I’m shopping around for welders and frame machines without breaking the bank. Quick start up equipment until business really grows
verry good video
cool vid
Thanks Primal - thanks for watching :)
de gran ayuda thanks a lot
Encantado de que te haya ayudado :)
I thought that you would want to cut and weld closer to your body line to reduce distortion.
I like the thinking. You could do that but it would make it harder to know your welds down and you might even mess up the body line.
Why did they made so many layer? Anyone knows? Thanks
the outer skin folds over the inner panel pretty standard way most doors are made.
why not step the panel where it laps over?
You could do that if you want. They make tools to make the step too :)
I would think that edge warped you tacked it like 10 times in the same spot in a short time span. Cutting the replacement would have been the most useful part to share.
Ever do work like this you do not overlap out panels . Bad work. I been doing bodywork 45 years . I have to fix bad work like this all the time.
th-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/w-d-xo.html & th-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/w-d-xo.html
Show us your door holder.
I actually do have a video on that..th-cam.com/video/aVeICEZ8BbI/w-d-xo.html - it's in there somewhere - not many requests for that one :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks
I bet it was from the drain holes in the bottom of the door being plugged up from debri!!!!!🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Yep - exactly. Plus the pinch welds get filled with salt water and rust very quickly. Need to throw some used motor oil in the door panel when it's new - it'll never rust down there.
@@LakesideAutobody I’m looking at fixing my rockers on my Cherokee and I have two doors with some rust on the bottom. A buddy of mine told me to mix used oil and candle wax and put it in the rockers… he’s a MG guy and says that’s how they do it in England… sounds legit!
@@Deadbuck73 Works like a charm - this is how I've done it for years - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html Just motor oil works for me because I don't want to clog the small drain holes at the bottom of the panels. Make sure you have drainage and there's something to protect the pinch welds at the bottom of panels :)
@@LakesideAutobody awesome! Thank You for the reply!
@@LakesideAutobody loved the oil video!
What! No gloves! lol Old school.
Yes - old school
My God quick an dirty
Are you saying there is a better way?
@@LakesideAutobody nope not if you want to make money
@@broken1965 I checked out your Ford F 150 rust repair - Did you do that?
Poor repair procedure.
With respect, not true - all body shops in MI do it this way for a good reason. I use a combination of both lap and butt on almost every patch but I would never just butt two pieces of metal up, weld it, then grind away at the area attempting to metal finish it for many reasons but here are two: th-cam.com/video/MfKlNQF-o4I/w-d-xo.html - th-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/w-d-xo.html
Also today’s metal is .030. That is literally 6 hairs (hair is .005) thick. You start grinding on that and voila paper thin metal and welds. Both methods work well if done properly so in the end it’s what works for you.. Keep in mind, you won’t find anyone butt welding in professional shops. Surely you’re not going to butt weld and metal finish this: th-cam.com/video/36zkc9UQaTs/w-d-xo.html or some of my other rust repair videos. Use small overlap - weld solid - no moisture - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside too. Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html or
th-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody I have never done production work, so i can see the speed advantage in a shop. I always butt weld and metal finish if possible. That being said i am a hobbyist and speed is not a concern.
Great video! thanks for this.
Glad you liked it - you're welcome Andre :)