this is vey cool, thanks for the new content. if you make a caulk mark on the wall and run a test you can use that a a registration mark to keep you head in the frame. Just an FYI
Some links to te files that you printed would be a welcome addition. I really like the brass catcher for the a.r. Picatinny rail. Also the 80 percent lower jigs.
I have purchased a few 3D printed pieces for my Lee press. 3D printers are fantastic tools for creating and I am interested in getting one myself. Great video thanks for sharing. 🔥👊💪🇺🇸
Measure the height of your failed print (battle box) with calipers. Lower the item in the slicer application to the height you measures in mm with your calipers. Now the part you printed will be below the floor/table in the application and it will create a printable file that is just the part that didn’t print before. Then glue or epoxy the two parts together.
I'd suggest not throwing away failed prints and offcuts as you can remelt them down and/or use them for other things like packing or ballast on items or just filler. A good use for failed PLA prints is melting them into a cast to make shotgun wads as an example With the orange lid it seems you've got first layer adhesion issues, the filament is probably fine assuming you bought from a reputable brand and to be honest filament quality nowadays is usually very decent regardless. There's loads to reasons why ranging from bad first layer adjustment, dirty or dusty print bed, moist filament, poorly sliced etc; What filament are you using?
this is vey cool, thanks for the new content. if you make a caulk mark on the wall and run a test you can use that a a registration mark to keep you head in the frame. Just an FYI
Some links to te files that you printed would be a welcome addition. I really like the brass catcher for the a.r. Picatinny rail. Also the 80 percent lower jigs.
I have purchased a few 3D printed pieces for my Lee press. 3D printers are fantastic tools for creating and I am interested in getting one myself. Great video thanks for sharing. 🔥👊💪🇺🇸
Cool beans 3d printing sure has come along way! Very cool thanks for sharing!
You can make the die holder lid taller in the slicer by selecting the scale and changing the Z height.
Measure the height of your failed print (battle box) with calipers. Lower the item in the slicer application to the height you measures in mm with your calipers. Now the part you printed will be below the floor/table in the application and it will create a printable file that is just the part that didn’t print before. Then glue or epoxy the two parts together.
Everything is sweet !
how about developing a lee loadall 2 conversion for 410......
I'd suggest not throwing away failed prints and offcuts as you can remelt them down and/or use them for other things like packing or ballast on items or just filler.
A good use for failed PLA prints is melting them into a cast to make shotgun wads as an example
With the orange lid it seems you've got first layer adhesion issues, the filament is probably fine assuming you bought from a reputable brand and to be honest filament quality nowadays is usually very decent regardless. There's loads to reasons why ranging from bad first layer adjustment, dirty or dusty print bed, moist filament, poorly sliced etc; What filament are you using?
Look into Hoffman Tactical and his Orca design
Awsomey
Can you share where you downloaded the files for each?
Which Ender do you have?
Any limitations?
What brand of filament did you find works best?
PolyMaker PLA Pro