Hey Tad, can you give some information on that York heat/ac condenser? I’m looking into replacing current ac with a 20 seer heat pump. Also like the soft start feature etc
Before you pulled the old breaker out, I noticed that they weren’t resting in similar positions. One toggle was slightly lower than the other. I’m not sure what an electrician would say, but whenever I see something like that, I’m suspicious of the breaker. (now after watching it that’s amazing that you caught that!)
Hey I just started learning hvac systems I roughly understand how they operate but I’d love your version of a beginner’s guide to the field maybe a vid of you repairing something while also explaining a bit of why and how you’re doing it (thanks for the vids I really enjoy them)
Awesome video, have yet to run into this one but I'm glad I have now seen this video and it will help me in the future when it does happen, thank you sir.
Wow, who'd a thunk it! Attention to detail is key! You never disappoint my friend! And for anyone reading these comments, cancel all your "other" HVAC channel subscriptions, Tad is the only channel you need. Thanks Tad! John in VA #giveaway
I am a marine HVACR tech. I had basically the same issue on three occasions on three different yachts. The complaint was that the compressor breakers were tripping. The first call, I found the wires from the compressor unit to the disconnect didn't have the insulation stripped, and one of the three terminal screws were never tightened. (It was a three phase unit.) The other two, the breakers in the main distribution panel, were not only from a different manufacturer. The terminals were actually bent and filed down to fit the buss bar configuration. These loosened up so much over time that I ended up replacing the entire panel as the buss lugs were secerly pitted due to arcing. The modified breakers were an easy find because as soon as the system was activated, I could hear arcing in the panel. It was as if someone was spot welding. That was almost 25 years ago that I had my first experience with such an issue. After that, I check the condition, amperage draw and tempature of every breaker related to the unit being serviced. I also check that they are the proper brand and style.
Installed a new compressor a week ago in a condenser. A few days later I was called back for no cool. A fuse had blown in the disconnect (new fuses). Unit tag calls for a 40 amp minimum fusible disconnect. Here a 30 amp disconect was installed originally with the unit. Going back tomorrow with a 40 amp disconnect. Any other possibilities anyone can think of or likely just the undersized disconnect/fuses?
@tech5298 hahaha hey thank you, ended up doing this. Funny thing since that last call back and I replaced the burnt (new) fuse w another 30. The unit has ran w no issues w that second new 30. Still replaced the disconnect however. Possibly a bad new fuse out the box🤷♂️
Should be using an insulated screw driver, you slip and touch that box or your hand slips and touches that screw driver shaft then it's game over! Hope someone watching this doesn't try this and get hurt! ALWAYS TURN OFF THE BREAKER THAT FEEDS THE BOX BEFORE YOU STICK A METAL OBJECT IN IT! SAFETY FIRST! JEEEZ!
When the breaker doesn't fit correctly you don't have a good connection which produces a high resistance a high resistance causes a high Amps draw which produces heat the breaker will trip because of the high a draw😊 Good job sir I'm retired now had back surgery but I ran into jobs like this use the right breaker for the panel that it's made for but sometimes they don't feel like waiting 2 hours in a supply house I get it but do the job right it won't come back to bite you in the ass.
There are many reasons they can trip. Bad breakers are rare. But with yorks problems are common. Installed 2 new systems. Both within 6 months had leaks in microchannel coils and both totally burned up the compressor plug and connections. Yorks can’t handle the heat in az I assume and they are among the most expensive brands just overpriced trouble. I had one recently 4 yrs old low pressure 275 high 230. Compressor sounded like drums. I was unable to fix it without compressor and I installed new (different brand) problems gone. And before you say “mismatched system” it has first company air handler in condo. I think York has problems particularly in 115 degree heat. I will never install one ever again.
You voided the UL listing for that disconnect by using a Siemens breaker. That breaker has to be a Square D breaker because it’s installed in a Square D disconnect. Otherwise the UL listing is voided. This is coming from a licensed electrician.
@@scottepperson7709 Why? The Siemans was the wrong breaker and the one that failed. SqD is a solid breaker when used in the correct panel. And the Homeline internals (minus the trip indicator) are EXACTLY the same as the QO style. Siemans breakers work well when used in the correct panel.
@@mxslick50 I believe SquareD is a good platform. I also believe they think their better than everyone else. You can put SquareD in other manufacturers but not the other way around. If that had been Eaton or GE there wouldn't have been a problem.
@@scottepperson7709 Not a good argument sir. GE is the absolute WORST breaker out there, thermal trip only, tiny bus connections and super high failure rates right out of the box. One commercial job I was on with GE breakers, over 15% of the GFCI breakers were defective, and over 7% of the standard breakers were defective. This was out of a few hundred total breakers on that job site. And yes, history has proven that SqD IS better than everyone else. Eaton is not a bad brand however. (Eaton is still not approved by them or SqD for use in a SqD panel.) And no, you cannot put SqD breakers in other panels it is a violation of the *breaker's* listing. Regardless of what other manufacturers claim, SqD (Schneider) has never approved or listed their breakers for use in other manufacturer's panels. (They do make bus assemblies for use in OEM applications though, like air handlers, etc.) Over my 45 years in the trade, I have seen far too many (as in hundreds of) breakers and panels burn due to use of the wrong breaker for the panel. Even a few where "approved" substitute types were used. I can count on one hand the number of SqD panels with SqD breakers that have failed. (And most of those were due to environmental factors not an inherent shortcoming of, or defect in, the equipment.) That said, Eaton, Murray, C-H, Siemans and others have indeed tested and approved other brands for use in some of their panels, but that had to get testing agency (UL, ETL, etc.) tests done to approve them. And they generally survive just fine.
I learn more from this guy, Than my trade school lol
Good job finding that situation. It’s called “listed and labeled” in the electrical code section. Good one Tad
Hey Tad, can you give some information on that York heat/ac condenser? I’m looking into replacing current ac with a 20 seer heat pump. Also like the soft start feature etc
Something new I learned. You never know who was there before you. Good job bud!
Before you pulled the old breaker out, I noticed that they weren’t resting in similar positions. One toggle was slightly lower than the other. I’m not sure what an electrician would say, but whenever I see something like that, I’m suspicious of the breaker. (now after watching it that’s amazing that you caught that!)
As an electrician, I would say it shows there is a problem. Good catch.
God bless you for posting this video
Good video I m from Enid Oklahoma
Great video as always 👍 learning from the Master , keep up the good work , greetings from Miami 👊
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks , I learned a lot of new things...I live in the state of Virginia.
Great to hear!
Hey taddy man I just enjoy your videos. Came across a triping breaker on a 3ton unit when I checked the compressor it grounded the winding was toasted
Absolutely great video you really do a great job showing things to look out for
Hey I just started learning hvac systems I roughly understand how they operate but I’d love your version of a beginner’s guide to the field maybe a vid of you repairing something while also explaining a bit of why and how you’re doing it (thanks for the vids I really enjoy them)
A good commonsense troubleshoot.
Awesome video, have yet to run into this one but I'm glad I have now seen this video and it will help me in the future when it does happen, thank you sir.
Did you check if the wires were tight at the breaker in the main panel?
That'll make the breaker trip.
Yes sir that's a good point
Hi am William from Ghana Bro l have learn a lot of jobs for your videos Thank you
You are very welcome
Thank you for that for that information didn't know a break I could cause that much problem if it's not the right breaker for the box.
Great video Tad. !
❤TX Excellent work ❤
Excellent video, Homeline will fit ITE but ITE won't fit Homeline.
Was that an insulated screw driver? Wasn't the line side always hot unless you turned off the breaker at the panel.
Thank you so much for a fantastic explanation 🙏🏻👍and great video 👏
Great catch
Good catch brother, great job!
Good catch 👏👏like always 👍👍 thanks for informing
Good catch Tad ... Thx
Great stuff 🎉🎉
Everything was helpful thanks Washington DC NW
Glad it was helpful!
Great job and video thanks for the good info always enjoy your videos
You are the Man. Love your vids.
Wow, who'd a thunk it! Attention to detail is key! You never disappoint my friend! And for anyone reading these comments, cancel all your "other" HVAC channel subscriptions, Tad is the only channel you need. Thanks Tad! John in VA #giveaway
I am a marine HVACR tech. I had basically the same issue on three occasions on three different yachts.
The complaint was that the compressor breakers were tripping. The first call, I found the wires from the compressor unit to the disconnect didn't have the insulation stripped, and one of the three terminal screws were never tightened. (It was a three phase unit.)
The other two, the breakers in the main distribution panel, were not only from a different manufacturer. The terminals were actually bent and filed down to fit the buss bar configuration.
These loosened up so much over time that I ended up replacing the entire panel as the buss lugs were secerly pitted due to arcing.
The modified breakers were an easy find because as soon as the system was activated, I could hear arcing in the panel. It was as if someone was spot welding.
That was almost 25 years ago that I had my first experience with such an issue. After that, I check the condition, amperage draw and tempature of every breaker related to the unit being serviced. I also check that they are the proper brand and style.
excellent video
Fused disconnects are great!
Thanks Tad. You are the cool guy.
Great job tad
Can you link the meter you’re using here
Great video!
Thank you sir, sq.d and seaman, have a blessed day America
Good video. Thanks
Solid video. Great! Thanks.
Always great thanks 🙏 you 😊
Get yourself a Wiha insulated screwdriver set on Amz. You’ll love them. Much safer.
Cool job.
Good video
Solid
are the gloves insulated?
thank you
You're welcome
Also, I always place a dab of no ox on the breaker contacts on outdoor enclosures.
good idea
Awesome
Installed a new compressor a week ago in a condenser. A few days later I was called back for no cool. A fuse had blown in the disconnect (new fuses). Unit tag calls for a 40 amp minimum fusible disconnect. Here a 30 amp disconect was installed originally with the unit. Going back tomorrow with a 40 amp disconnect. Any other possibilities anyone can think of or likely just the undersized disconnect/fuses?
Use a 60 amp disconnect w 40 amp fuses ( just in case newbies are gleaning the comments)
@tech5298 hahaha hey thank you, ended up doing this. Funny thing since that last call back and I replaced the burnt (new) fuse w another 30. The unit has ran w no issues w that second new 30. Still replaced the disconnect however.
Possibly a bad new fuse out the box🤷♂️
I wanna work with you Tad😊
Should be using an insulated screw driver, you slip and touch that box or your hand slips and touches that screw driver shaft then it's game over! Hope someone watching this doesn't try this and get hurt! ALWAYS TURN OFF THE BREAKER THAT FEEDS THE BOX BEFORE YOU STICK A METAL OBJECT IN IT! SAFETY FIRST! JEEEZ!
When the breaker doesn't fit correctly you don't have a good connection which produces a high resistance a high resistance causes a high Amps draw which produces heat the breaker will trip because of the high a draw😊 Good job sir I'm retired now had back surgery but I ran into jobs like this use the right breaker for the panel that it's made for but sometimes they don't feel like waiting 2 hours in a supply house I get it but do the job right it won't come back to bite you in the ass.
Good catch Tad, in shorter sentences, don't follow what the last dude put in.
Actually. That wire could be # 8 and breaker should be 60A. According to the US NEC
"i got a friend of a brother that does this for 10$" - said the homeowner.
and this is what happening when ur dirt cheap.
There are many reasons they can trip. Bad breakers are rare. But with yorks problems are common. Installed 2 new systems. Both within 6 months had leaks in microchannel coils and both totally burned up the compressor plug and connections. Yorks can’t handle the heat in az I assume and they are among the most expensive brands just overpriced trouble. I had one recently 4 yrs old low pressure 275 high 230. Compressor sounded like drums. I was unable to fix it without compressor and I installed new (different brand) problems gone. And before you say “mismatched system” it has first company air handler in condo. I think York has problems particularly in 115 degree heat. I will never install one ever again.
Ive seen two York gas-pacs on roofs, both caught on fire in the controls area.
You voided the UL listing for that disconnect by using a Siemens breaker. That breaker has to be a Square D breaker because it’s installed in a Square D disconnect. Otherwise the UL listing is voided. This is coming from a licensed electrician.
That's the first time I've ever seen a breaker on a disconnect!
unsubscribed due to "private content" video's. Dude just do videos and trust God to provide
Cuz the dog pissed on it 😜
That's why I don't use square D.
@@scottepperson7709 Why? The Siemans was the wrong breaker and the one that failed. SqD is a solid breaker when used in the correct panel. And the Homeline internals (minus the trip indicator) are EXACTLY the same as the QO style. Siemans breakers work well when used in the correct panel.
@@mxslick50
I believe SquareD is a good platform. I also believe they think their better than everyone else. You can put SquareD in other manufacturers but not the other way around. If that had been Eaton or GE there wouldn't have been a problem.
@@scottepperson7709 Not a good argument sir. GE is the absolute WORST breaker out there, thermal trip only, tiny bus connections and super high failure rates right out of the box. One commercial job I was on with GE breakers, over 15% of the GFCI breakers were defective, and over 7% of the standard breakers were defective. This was out of a few hundred total breakers on that job site.
And yes, history has proven that SqD IS better than everyone else.
Eaton is not a bad brand however. (Eaton is still not approved by them or SqD for use in a SqD panel.)
And no, you cannot put SqD breakers in other panels it is a violation of the *breaker's* listing. Regardless of what other manufacturers claim, SqD (Schneider) has never approved or listed their breakers for use in other manufacturer's panels. (They do make bus assemblies for use in OEM applications though, like air handlers, etc.)
Over my 45 years in the trade, I have seen far too many (as in hundreds of) breakers and panels burn due to use of the wrong breaker for the panel. Even a few where "approved" substitute types were used. I can count on one hand the number of SqD panels with SqD breakers that have failed. (And most of those were due to environmental factors not an inherent shortcoming of, or defect in, the equipment.)
That said, Eaton, Murray, C-H, Siemans and others have indeed tested and approved other brands for use in some of their panels, but that had to get testing agency (UL, ETL, etc.) tests done to approve them. And they generally survive just fine.
Brilliant lesson
can you do a reversing valve troubleshooting video?!? TIA