And this is why you watch the whole video. I've been fighting bolts on the mount of this stupid thing for about 2 hours. Watched more of the video and realized all my work was pointless. Thank you for making this process a lot easier.
The SAIS has failed twice on my 2007 Tundra 4.7L the first time @135k miles which was replaced under warranty, the second time @255k miles this time I bypassed using a Hewitt Gen2 kit which is the best thing to do it will never fail again
Why didn't you replace the whole unit and only the top? Wouldn't the bottom portion of the unit be affected by all of the previous water intrusion? Asking because I have to do this same replacement.
You can replace the whole unit it just takes more time. The bottom portion is simply a pipe that the air pushes through. Water is not like oil, oil get can turn into carbon and start clogging the port. If you discover water in the check valves replacing the pumps is the next step to prevent from prematurely failing again
This is the air pump check valve up under the hood next to the intake right? Not the air pump on passenger side behind the tire? I have code P2437. That should be the check valve on bank 2 up next to the intake?
Assuming you have the 4.7L V8 yes. you should replace the secondary air pump as well if you notice the old check valve has water in it. The air pump pushes water in it and that’s what causes the check valve to fail.
My 2012 tundra cranks but don't start, and come out with the secondary air valve, just wanted to know why don'tstart? That could be the problem? And thank you for the info.
I have a 2008 tundra 4.7 I have all the lights as you described blinking. I only have 1 pump and check valve. I first changed out the pump because I misread scan . All lights remain flashing. I proceeded to change entire check valve. Still flashing I disconnected battery . Codes returned short time after. Is there a way I could test new check valve to see if its bunk.
Depends on what your codes are. You should have a check valve on the passenger and driver side of the vehicle. Also there should be 2 pumps one in the fender well area and I believe the other was located under the intake manifold
And this is why you watch the whole video. I've been fighting bolts on the mount of this stupid thing for about 2 hours. Watched more of the video and realized all my work was pointless. Thank you for making this process a lot easier.
Well done instructional video. Thank you for taking the time to post this.
The SAIS has failed twice on my 2007 Tundra 4.7L the first time @135k miles which was replaced under warranty, the second time @255k miles this time I bypassed using a Hewitt Gen2 kit which is the best thing to do it will never fail again
What was the code for the failed SAIS? Bc I’m trying to determine if the bypass could clear my code.
This will be my 3 time changing it i was told I can't use a bypass because I will fail emissions
@ in your state what is emission testing? If it’s just a smog test you won’t fail.
2004-2006 Tundra's are completely different. They are located in the back of the intake.
Thanks a lot for this video
Same with my 2008 bank 2 valve.. its on the driver side right ? Gonna gdt the hewitt bypass sensor kit so i wont have to desl wit yhat issue again
Thank you for this
Why didn't you replace the whole unit and only the top? Wouldn't the bottom portion of the unit be affected by all of the previous water intrusion? Asking because I have to do this same replacement.
You can replace the whole unit it just takes more time. The bottom portion is simply a pipe that the air pushes through. Water is not like oil, oil get can turn into carbon and start clogging the port. If you discover water in the check valves replacing the pumps is the next step to prevent from prematurely failing again
Will this cause the vehicle to loose power?
Yes and your truck may struggle to reach highway speeds
@@ultimatediyguy395 I have the same issue, but my code is 2440 which says secondary air injector valve is stuck open. Should I follow the process??
Yes
Did you have to replace any gaskets along this process? Intake gaskets, valve gaskets etc? Thx!! Great video 🙌
Nope
Did the code clear on it’s own or did you clear it and run it
I cleared it and ran it
This is the air pump check valve up under the hood next to the intake right? Not the air pump on passenger side behind the tire? I have code P2437. That should be the check valve on bank 2 up next to the intake?
Assuming you have the 4.7L V8 yes. you should replace the secondary air pump as well if you notice the old check valve has water in it. The air pump pushes water in it and that’s what causes the check valve to fail.
You just have to clean the unit very well and put it back, free fix
Clean it really good with what???
Clean it really good with what?
Brake cleaner solvent
My 2012 tundra cranks but don't start, and come out with the secondary air valve, just wanted to know why don'tstart? That could be the problem? And thank you for the info.
Yes thas the problem you need to disconnect it
I have a 2008 tundra 4.7 I have all the lights as you described blinking. I only have 1 pump and check valve. I first changed out the pump because I misread scan . All lights remain flashing. I proceeded to change entire check valve. Still flashing I disconnected battery . Codes returned short time after. Is there a way I could test new check valve to see if its bunk.
Depends on what your codes are. You should have a check valve on the passenger and driver side of the vehicle. Also there should be 2 pumps one in the fender well area and I believe the other was located under the intake manifold
@dankern7656 dat second pump is the bitch to reach under the manifold
Did you fix y
Replaced mine still throwing same code
I am concerned that after he switched out the part, his VSC Off, Check Engine and Skid Control lights all Stayed On!