DIY High Steer Double Shear Brackets
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2015
- In this video lets make our own high steer double shear bracket for this Dana44 axle. Not Reid or anyone else for that matter seems to make high steer knuckles for a unit bearing D30 or D44 axle and that is what I want to run... So I guess I'll have to make my own. Lets do it!
Website: www.bleepinjeep.com
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Only problem I have with my knuckles is that they drag when I walk. But after watching these videos I'm standing more upright and beginning to appreciate the invention of the wheel.
I still can't believe any of the big companies haven't started making this as a semi-bolt in option for high steer Dana 30.
really interesting stuff, thanks for taking the time to drag us along your build.
Impressive fab, video and editing. Excellent!
I've looked at maybe a half dozen BleepinJeep videos prior to this one. This one deserved a thumbs up, and a subscription. I don't own a Jeep, I have an '80 Powerwagon Clubcab, W150, for a play toy. It only has a 4" lift and 35's that don't rub unless I get really stupid. Slowly gathering parts to turn it into a 1 ton driveline. Dana 60 axles out of a 91 Cummins, NP 205 transfer case, and a high steer conversion kit from, I believe ORF. Looking for fabrication ideas. Bumpers and rock sliders, even on board air from an old York AC compressor. Like what I've seen so far, my project might be on hold for a while. The '80 is to tall and long to fit in my garage, winters around the corner, and it can get brutal in Alberta Canada.
Can't wait to see this axle go in
This is a really sweet video, matt. Thanks for uploading! I want to do this when I upgrade my steering. really excited to see your scorpion crawler videos as its more in my alley, being extreme mods
cool, thanks!
love the amount of footage! keep it comin:)
really love your work, ive had problems with my bottom caliper bolt spin on me inside the hole on my passengerside knuckle but never had any other issues.
I hope I'm only a year out, want to do this and much more to an XJ/TJ/CJ that I have yet to see or purchase- Always planning- Thanks for some basic engineering on this, great ideas
wow really enjoying your fab work!!
thanks!
great idea for high steering... but, all the steering force will be on the 2 bolts on the hub. meaning you need to reinforce the 1/4" plates at the bolts holes... a structural thing.
That's some awesome fabrication work man 👍
thanks
Good show Matt!
Nice job Matt. Oh and thank God you guys sell muffler bearings, I'm almost out of them!
very few left in the store so get em while you can.
You should sell them. Im sure someone would want them.
1996 Xj Dana 30 Q: Matt, now that you've run big tires/axles for a few years, would you ever go back to a D30? Would you run 35's with a locker? If this is a good time to go back through and freshen up some older videos with your experiences, I'd for sure watch and like. Thanks in advance.
Love that you explain stuff into detail but damn that one big ram and also I don't think that 1x2 will be strong enough :)
So cooll, I wish I had cool toys like you 😢 I probably need to find a shop or someone to do this for me. I would takle it if I had the stuff.
I'm wondering if you thought of using a carriage type plow wear bar bolt that would be flush on the top where you have that long bolt.. they are used to bolt the wear bar on the bottom of snow plows. I'm a farmer rancher in cattle country and our local machine and agg fab shop has them in any size you would need just call around and ask for plow wear bar bolts . They are Billy Hell hard and schedule 8 or harder. You won't find anything harder. I use them on my drag plows and box blade spreaders. The head has a square bottom and counter sunk taper head that seats flush. Dandahermit
Sidewinder fab makes these for a Dana 30/44 knuckle
How are we just now seeing this? Frickin STICKY dude👌🤘🥞🥞🥞
Most ppl don't hve the PSC threw & threw on both sides set up & they seem happy w/just stabilizer but full hydro using it to get power advantage is way to go & should b on gold or platinum or higher from jeep option package. Getting best base foundation & power plant u can or thing u will need in the beg & then rest of upgrades or changes & personal stuff u can do over time afterwards.
you've moved the pivot point more inside, where the tie rod mount acts as a lever... those bolts and 1/4" plates will break w 40" tires...
Great Work
What's the deal with that torch? It looks very handy. I'd love to know where to get one. Great videos, I really enjoy your work.
did your mic mess up after cleaning your cuts up lol? and yes definitely sell them id buy a set I've always hear of over the nuckel but I've never seen what your doing. nice video
Maybe two compression springs holding the tie rod end in the middle of travel along the bolt. Could use a section of bike inner tube as a dust boot.
Beautiful work. Can you use a bolt with more threads on it to get a nut on both sides of the knuckle's lower tab? And on that bolt for spacers, can you use dense urethane which compresses as the knuckle rotates, such that the hydr rams stay in line? I looks like the tie rod ends need to float vertically about .75" up and down. Lube? Brass bushing?
the threads are a good idea if I had more room but unfortunately its only 1/4" on each side after the misalignment spacers. It'll make more sense when you see the later videos about the tie rods but they dont need vertical float. you have to remember there is a tie rod between the ram arms and the double shear and the heims will allow plenty of flex and movement in that arc.
I'm currently in the same project. Did you have issues with the bolt coming in contact with the wheel? I'm running TMRcustoms 3/4" rod ends, 2 safety washers for the tie rod and 2 high misalignment spacers for the drag link. Using a 5/8" bolt and huge offset 15" beadlocks, I'm less than an 1/8" from the back of the wheel.
another great video thanks for the info...
If possible could you please make a video on setting up the lengths and angles of your links for your double triangulated 4 link ... how did you choose the locations for your link brackets on the frame ... and maybe mention something about the brackets on the axle and setting up your pinion angle... I know it mighr be a hard video to make and it's asking a lot ... but I think it would help a lot of us...
you have a lot of followers that are doing axle swaps, 4 links, roll cages, ect ... I am so glad you are taking your videos to the next level we all recognize it's a lot harder to film and they're not really how to videos... But please don't stop documenting your work
I'll try but I'm still learning too, this is my first hardcore build.
+BleepinJeep awesome thanks ... could have fooled me seems like fabrication comes easily to you ... I love what you have done with the middle section of the frame rails ... and how the upper link mount goes through the frame rail ... would love more info/close up of that stuff as well
Ok - Did this hold up? It is 4 years later and I would like to know. I have a lot of money wrapped up in my Dana 44 with RCV's and I now need full hydro. So I plan on fabbing something up. Did it hold up to the abuse?
second this... Curious to know how it stood the test of time.
wouldn't the connection at the sheer pin be stronger if it were higher up near the top mount instead of in the middle where that pin may bend?
Good idea, But i would use dana 44 outer because ford and chevy bearing is bigger and wider placement,But good idea
I'm not sure that putting the heim in the center of the bolt is the strongest.. Would you rather stand in the middle of a 2x4 spanning a ravine, or close to one edge? The center point is the exact point with the most deflection. At least in my mind
Awesome learned a lot thanks
If there is clearance you should weld captive nuts on the bracket and drill strait through the knuckle. Then box the bracket and bolt it from the back. Just my 2 cents
+nckmackay That's actually a really good idea .........
Would tapping the 1/4 plate be enough thread purchase for this design idea?
sent that post uncompleted. getting big tires between a rock and pushing with hydro could bend bolt.
what about the leverage on the bolt that you will use . when
you missed a weld spot on the top right.
Cool vid I love your whatever whatever attitude. It doesn't take 15 Executives in a million dollar Corporation to do what you do. LOL I love it. But I have a question what was that torch you are using to cut your flat stock? It looked like a plasma cutter but just use regular torch gas. Please let me know thanks
sweet video. maybe you can put your templates online?
can you show me link of final product video?
Has this held up for your steering needs? I think I’m going to fab it on my Dana 30... will have hydro assist and drag link still wanted to confirm you liked the set up. Thx
ya haven't heard of any problems from him
Did these hold up over time
just curious is there a reason you are not welding that stuff the the spindle, or does it have to be able to be removed? its cast steel should be ok with a lil preheat
I want to be able to remove it incase I need to replace a knuckle.
i need some made for me please and thank you I got a ZJ w/dana 30
or is it cast iron? i always thought cast steel
those brackets look great but I'm concerned that you are going to bend the bolt if you get in a bind.
it wont, remember that I'll be using a larger bolt plus the heim and high misalignment spacers which will put the force on the top and bottom.
Why are you keeping the dana 30 knuckles out? What makes keeping those unit bearings worth the trouble?
+paparker21 I hd good success with them on my last crawler... easy to change a shaft, everyone else in my crew is always breaking lockouts, and I don't like to get out and lock in the hubs. Plus I want to have the same wheel pattern front to back.
Just started a project similar to this the other day. Why did you drill and tap? Why didn't you just burn it on to the knuckle?
If I need to replace the knuckle I don't want to make another one.
Mike Arndt
i need some made for me please and thank you I got a ZJ w/dana 30 can you make me some ????????
Where do you suggest buying all of your plate and tube steel from?
Your local metal supply
I wonder if hydro-steer is limited to four wheel drive application.
+Dan Acton its not all trophy trucks have full hydro and they are 2 wheel drive
Jack Kinney cool,
great video! sell kits
why not switch to wj knuckles?
you needed a drum sander for this project man :-) would of made life easier :-)
Any pics of the final product installed?
+bruce edwards yes, and videos! Keep watching the scorpion playlist and there are a few build threads on pirate and Naxja and pics on Instagram and fb.
Measure them up. Add tab and slot for welding. Draw them in draftsight. Save to Dxf. Send to laser cut shop. weld install. Profit!.
if I knew they would work on all knuckles I might just do that but I'm pretty sure knuckles varied quite a bit over the years.
hi.. can you show me the template for this bracket
are you selling these by chance?
My *knuckles* get terrible arthritis in the cold months
teraflex knuckles unit bearing and high steer
Are you gonna do any sort of write up on any of the forums for this xj build?
+cts12321 thought about it but YT is my writeup... which forums should I do?
+BleepinJeep I was thinking pirate4x4 would be a good one. I really like the videos but having a complete write up is nice for people doing something similar. That and I spend 90% of my time at school reading write ups. Can't watch TH-cam in English!
HELP! i recently installed a 2.5 inch lift (new shocks and addition of coil spacers) and i cant get my trackbar to line up with the hole exaclty (passenger side) is there anyway to slide the axle over ajd realign it or do i need to drill a new hole? i just bought this trackbar new so i dont want to just toss it and buy an adjustable
Use the force. Have someone push the body around while you line up the hole. Or use ratchet straps.
Lol. And thanks that should definitely help. I appreciate the feedback!
What kind of torch is that? never seen one like it
It's called a cobra
How about rust protection? Also check out some spot where water cant come out eventually, also a big issue and often underestimated, anyway, nice work mate :-)
itll get a coat of paint... 1/4" plate wont rust through for several hundred years so i'm probably good.
If your not driving on salted roads, the paint will work well, but only if the steel is well-prepared, means cleaning of any rust spots and then a layer of primer before the paint. Under salt road conditions the several hundred years will shrink to less than 10 years...
did you end up using the rubicon air locker that was in this axle?
No, an ox
nice, were the rubicon air lockers broken or just not worth the hookup hastle?
Hey matt i have a question on temp. its getting cooler and my 4.0 has a really hard time heating up. any advice on what i should do?
+Ty Martinez replace your thermostat
+27dcx I did that 3 weeks ago when I put the radiator in
Is the actual temp taking a long time to go up or is the heat taking a long time to get hot?
+27dcx the engine temp is taking a long time to heat up
I don't know man, if it was just the heat I'd say the system had air in it and needed to be bled some more but if its the actual engine temp and you have a new thermostat, that's a tough one. If it was me I'd still try changing the stat again, you may have gotten a mislabeled or bad one or there could be debris stuck in it preventing it from fully closing. It's possible your fan clutch for the belt driven fan could be seized but I'd think you'd know that because the fan is super loud when that happens.
I'm not a welder. What do welder machine do you use and what size wire? Thanks, Dylan
Miller 185 and .035
+BleepinJeep www.weldingmart.com/miller-blue-star-185-dx One of those? No wonder your welds come out like butter !
No that is a generator. A millermatic 185
+BleepinJeep Got it, understand!
Why did you opt to make them bolt on rather than welded to the knuckle?
I wonder as well?
+Jeremy Downs The biggest issue I can think of is a heat related failure of the knuckle ... If he welds that while bracket to the knuckle it can create weak points along the welds causing the knuckle to fail .. Especially with the force from the Hydro steering ram ..
Why go this route over the wj brake upgrade route? You can easily get high steer with those knuckles.
+pra3t0rian , Cost could be a deterrent .... Swapping to a WJ knuckle involves Brakes , steering , and trackbar relocation (not that big a deal when building from scratch ) ... But it is a lot cheaper to use the current parts and build this bracket ...
Also with the early knuckles ( these are not them) there is a way to do the big brakes upgrade without changing to wj knucks
Use ATF for drilling.
Is there any reason why you didn't just weld it to the knuckle?
I did end up doing that later
Yeah, I was gonna say... I wouldn't have put holes in the factory Knuckle. It just weakens the part.
most every setup still has low bar in harms way right across the front.
Thanks I’m buying metal tomorrow
I'm so jealous I don't have the space to do this. Or the money lol
14:40 thats a lot of liquids on the wall.
I bet you could sell those or patent it then have a company mass produce it.
Possibly but how many people actually need such a thing? Probably not many.
Just use the foam and tape way cheaper
I did not find a flux capacitor on bleepinjeep.com . I am horrifically disappointed.
its out of stock. we do have muffler bearings though!
that is actually not double shear, with the spacers you have on that bolt, the bolt will be loaded in bending, not shear. I expect you will have a good amount of compliance in the bolt as well.
+hitchhikingmike also, I'm a mechanical engineer. I'll do some load analysis for you if you would like me to, tell you what stresses and safety factors are on any components you would like me to. Just let me know!
please do that for the rest of us who are checking this out
comment 132: 2/2/21'
I hope this abortion job isn't going to be street driven.
OK I see it's going full hydro, so am assuming it's trail only. Still don't think those knuckles are the way to go, but good luck!
Why on earth didn't you just cut the Cs off and install D44 outers and get rid of all the weak D30 bits?
really love your work, ive had problems with my bottom caliper bolt spin on me inside the hole on my passengerside knuckle but never had any other issues.