Well done video mister. Was baffled by the chain and how to install the oil pump with the timing cover in place. Appreciate your information and I might suggest you doing more videos, because you have a very good delivery. Mega-props Sir. Carry on.
FYI, for those of you who've had to remove their mk5 or mk6 tsi oil pan more than once or plan to remove it regularly for inspection, you can upgrade to an mk7 oil pan (or even an aftermarket performance oil pan from Wortek), which uses a proper o ring gasket instead of rtv silicone.
One of the best I've seen on this issue. I have 170K Oil Pressure light coming on with daily use after about 5mins of driving. While accelerating, in town, it will come on and blink. On the highway, going over 60mph, no light, nothing. Warning goes away. Perfectly running. But as soon as I get below 60 in traffic or exit BEEP Oil Pressure. VW told me turbo needed replacement because too much was in there. Another mech said oil pump, BUT get a whole new engine. What do you think? Thanks for your time, and once again, great vid
Hi, thanks for the comment. It's a tough call. The first thing to do is to check oil pressure, it could be as simple as a sensor. Turbo is highly unlikely. Depending on the engine code ccta engines were more prone to balance shaft failures which can cause the issue. There is also a cam girdle that has screens that also control oil pressure. You can go in circles to really find the problem. Start with pressure test. Let me know.
I follow your channel I wanted to congratulate you, and I would like to see with you about my jetta is a 200 hp TSI 2012, some week ago I made an overtaking he turned on the EPC light, I stopped turning off and turned on the car again and the light went out and continued, but when it accelerates for someone there for a while near 4000 RPM it lights up again, in the scan he accuses the error P164B error in the oil pressure sensor, that's where the mechanics are going crazy lol the car doesn't lower oil , does not beat engine or valve, does not smoke and does not lose power only limits after lighting the EPC, then we put the oil pressure gauge in place of the brown sensor in slow it gives 1.2 bar to 2000 RPM around 1.8 bar and then it is even accelerating sometimes it gives some peaks in the pressure gauge indicator very fast, I changed this brown sensor When you turned on the light and a noise in the high gasoline pump, the one that is on top of the engine from 2000 rpm, it makes a noise, it looks like friction, would you have any tips for us to test ??? Thank you, I look forward to your reply Hug
Hi, thanks for the comments! How many miles does your Jetta have? With the epic light does it indicate low oil pressure to stop? If you are having spikes in oil pressure that is not normal. You should have very linear pressure up to a point because the pump will help regulate excess pressure (flow) back into the oil pan.
Hi. Have the same issue. Do anyone of you solved it? Might check the cambridge because sadly I think I heard the noise from the HPFP as well and I guess it's likely to be caused by oil starvation in the far end of the exhaust cam, and it seems all head oil passages come after the cambridge oil screen. @KennyChurchSpeed
Thank you for taking the time to put this vid together! My issue started after a botched valve decarb. My idiot cousin said he knew what he was doing but ended up f-ing everything up. Had to take the car to the shop for valve job, but now the shop doesn't want to mess with it anymore. They're just not used to these kinds of repairs and have a long wait list due to labor shortages. I guess my question is, what is the most likely scenario here? Oil pressure registers normal at higher RPM, but drops to nothing at idle. Mechanic says there are shavings in the oil and there is likely a blockage somewhere, but the pick up tube screen looks normal. So where could this blockage be? Could this be a bad oil pump? It sucks because the car is in otherwise great shape and I'd hate to simply drop another engine in it or junk it.
@TrollBuster thanks for the kind words and you're welcome. As far as your questions, what did your cousin screw up? When you do a valve cleaning you don't need to do anything with timing that would lead to a valve job unless there was a tool left in the cylinder? As far as what's next, if you have checked oil pressure with a gauge and you see good pressure at rpm then it typically isn't a pump issue. If you have low pressure at idle it could mean you have bearing failure( result of cleaning valves and solvent getting into cylinders and leaking into oil reducing lubrication properties), or the screens in the cam bridge blew out, or balance shafts are wearing. The unfortunate part of these engines is there are a lot of passages that prevent oil flow(hence creating pressure) so when they are absent pressure is reduced. What I have learned is once there is an oil pressure issue you have to replace all the components and check the bearings at least. The balance shafts, cam bridge, rod bearings, cam journals all contribute to ensuring pressure is created. I hope this helps...
@@KennyChurchSpeed Thank you for your insights. I think my cousin used the wrong medium (too fine) to blast the carbon, and didn't take proper precautions to ensure the fine medium didn't get where it shouldn't have. I suspect that's what those "shavings" are -- medium particles that ended up circulating in the oil, causing a clog that starved the engine of oil pressure and damaged it (I haven't personally seen the particles, I'm just going by what the mechanic said on the phone). I'm not ready to give up on it tho. If it is a clog, I think the logical thing to do is disassemble it and clean out every orifice where oil flows, replace any parts that show clear signs of wear/damage, and put it all back together. I know it's labor intensive and therefore expensive, but I'm just not ready to give up on it. I don't know, maybe I'm just an idiot and don't know what I'm talking about... lol
@@marco1173 I'd give you an "A" for effort and it certainly can be done. The balance shafts are the hardest thing to remove with the engine in the car. Everything else is cake. Also you need a special tool to remove valve cover because it's the cam cap/girdle assemble in one. If media got into the cylinders you may have more problems than just oil pressure. You may want to consider time and effort versus cost of a used running engine.
@@KennyChurchSpeed That's just it. The shop says the only used engine they could find has 75k miles on it and the total cost of engine+installation is $6700. That's just crazy, especially when I can order a complete brand-new engine assembly from the dealer for under $5k. In any case, it's turning out to be a very expensive decarb job. I haven't talked to my cousin since this happened, but I can't hold a grudge forever. I just need to get this thing back running again. I truly miss driving it.
@@marco1173 I understand your predicament. It sounds like your cousins heart was in the right place, but perhaps he didn't have the skill set. My fear for you is if you got media in the cylinder and it scores the bore you will need rings and honing.
my oil pressure light turns on when i decelerate coming off the highway. i did an oil+filter change 500 miles ago and dipped a magnet in my oil and didn’t see any shavings but i did notice thick sludgey oil. (oil changes every 3,500 mi.) but anywho, time for some deeper digging. Thanks for this informative video!
You're welcome and good luck. Start with the pressure test, if you are getting good readings throughout rpms it isn't the pump. Balance shafts can cause the pressure light at odd times as well. If the rod bearings were wearing you may hear extra noise and potential metal in the oil. Unfortunately it depends on the engine because my cbfa car had 256k on it with no engine issues. Ccta has alot more problems with balance shafts, particularly the little screens in them break down.
@@karinawashere did you have an issue before the reseal? I wouldn't think so unless and oil passage was blocked somehow. I've also heard of people having odd lights when the pcv leaks but I'd expect a check engine light for that not an oil pressure light.
Whats up Kenny man! Thanks for the helpful video!! I'm currently experiencing what most people on here are, oil pressure warning between 20 & 50mph, anything over rides with no issues at all. Done new sensor, checked wiring,, oil+filter. I then took it to Volkswagen, they said oil pressure is at 1.5 bar at 2000rpm. I got there, then the guy that helped me at front counter said, it's actually at 1.5 bar at idle and at any Rev amount (he did seem unsure about telling me this once I asked if the pressure changed at all at different rpms). You did state in previous comments that if your car rode well on highway that it wasn't a pump issue but I'm thinking it is? They wanted to drop the pan and inspect pickup tube for $500. Thanks to your video and a bit of elbow grease I should be able to get this done myself at home. Think I should go ahead and order the pump?
Hi! Thanks for watching, I would actually check the pressure first if you feel comfortable before getting a pump. Chances are however if you are driving and higher rpms and it comes on you probably have a pump issue. Usually at idle rod bearings cause low oil pressure and I've seen that with balance shafts as well. Good luck!
I was having the same problem 1 month ago, with 5w-30 for just 50km my oil pump blocked and crack the chain in the oil pump, after that, I change everything on my engine and still said low oil pressure... When oil is cold everything is okay but when oil comes 95+C, when iddle pressure is 0.5 bar when i put some torque, goes to 3-4 bar. Now I'm waiting for the new oil pump for 1.700 $ . And hope that this is the problem
@@Niko-ys7gt hey, thanks for watching. So what your saying is when the engine is warm and at idle you get the light? When you push the throttle the light goes away? Generally if you are increasing pressure with rpm then the pump is not the culprit. You could have a balance shaft screen that is clogged or rod bearings that have excessive wear due to oil pump restriction. It doesn't take long to smoke the bearings with and engine and no oil.
Hi, Im glad it could help! Well, I sold the car about 2 years ago, but at the time there was no oil light or issues. So this certainly resolved my problem. I hope it resolves your issue as well!
@@KennyChurchSpeed thank you. I literally did the work a couple hours ago. I’m letting it sit in my shop overnight before filling and will see if it stops my issue. I get the light at low rpm when the car is at operating temp
Hi Kenny! Great video I'm now more confident on doing this myself. I have a 2011 GTI with 124k miles atm and I've been dealing with low oil pressure warnings every now and then for a while now. I've seen it only occurs when it's really hot outside and car is driven for about 20 minutes. If I shut it off and back on the light goes away. I've so far replaced oil pressure switch, oil filter spring and still have the error. My next shot is changing the oil pick up but I'm really not sure if that's going to solve it. I have personally not checked oil pressure but previous owner did and pressure was withing spec. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.
Thanks, you're welcome! These motors are funny, but other than checking oil pressure and of it is within specification, then it can be balance shafts or the cam bridge screens. From my experience, the ccta engine codes have more of these problems than the cbfa for some reason.
@@KennyChurchSpeed this is a CBFA engine. Cambridge was replaced and balance shafts "checked" by mechanic about 4k miles ago when I replaced timing tensioner, guides and chains and he said everything was fine. Car has been basically been going on like this for about 5k miles now but I wish I could find the culprit and fix it.
I have the exact same issue, I'm looking to replace the pump soon. My car doesnt seem to have any mayor issues besides the pump,but I will be driving it like 2 more weeks before I can purchase the pump. Do you think I will be okay driving it like that till I can purchase pump??. BTW thanks for the video, it's very helpful.
Hi, thanks for watching and I’m glad to hear it is helpful. I would suggest not driving it if you can help it. You need the lubrication, especially at higher rpms. A $300 pump could cost you way more if you continue to drive it with low oil pressure. Good luck!
Not doing an oil pump, but doing timing chains on my wifes 2.0tsi beetle, by the looks of things am i right to assume the only way to get the damn oil pump drive chain out is to drop the oil pan ?
Hey, I think so based on where the tensioner is located. There may be some way to magically get it but for the time it takes to pull the pan, probably not even worth it. Also be careful when putting the crank pulley back on because you can bolt it back together without those triangular shaped teeth on the back. Also check the balance shafts while your there, and also the cam bridge at the top end. Those screens tend to pop out and may cause a pressure light. I ended up replacing everything in my car as a precaution. Good luck!
Great Video! Thank You! I was just reading all of your excellent responses I did a pump but I’m still getting low pressure. It’s been going on On and off since 115K miles and now more frequently at 161K! My pickup tube had some junk in it so I was hopeful. I need to do some more troubleshooting. The car drives great but I get that intermittent low pressure warning more frequently.
Thanks, I actually didn't realize they make a grey, however I just use the black. There are two different cure versions offered. I use the quicker curing stuff, but really depends if you are trying to get the road right after or if you have time to wait until it cures.
i have a 09 cc, i just dumped out 5k to get the timing and head redone, NOW im having oil pressure issues.. 3 years after you did this, is all still good for you? thanks for video!
Hi, thanks for watching. I actually sold the car last year so I am unaware of what has happened since. However I did drive it for two years with no issues. With that in mind I did replace the cam bridge, balance shafts, oil pump, and chains and had the head fully cleaned when I bought the car because it had bent valves.
Thanks for video, i have "low oil pressure" light when engine is fully heated (after 10-15 minutes driving) and there is 0.2 bar on mechanical gauge... what do you think is it bearings failure or just pump? Thanks a lot again.
@@borosa100qwertyui7 Generally if you have a pressure increase with rpm that means you have fluid flow(oil pumping) no matter what temp. So it could be rod bearings or the balance shaft filters or bearing surfaces. Hard to say, but rod bearings are easier to inspect than the balance shafts.
@@KennyChurchSpeed yes so much m just in the learning phase and m learning the much i can to open my workshop but i will focus just in keys and coding ECM to get more power
@@KennyChurchSpeed but i'm realy so glade to found your channel m learning from u a lot of thing that gonna use maybe in futur / like erasing the exhaust line from the ECU eeprom so with u i can also delete the physical things too hahaha like EGR / DPF / ADBLUE easy bizi so thank u a lot bro
I have a similar problem with my 2.0 tsi jetta. I have had the oil pressure light come on and beep at me when decelerating for some time. Even more recent i have started getting a very loud knocking sound. Oil pressure was around 36 psi which is a little low. Could this be an oil pump? or something else like balance shafts, timing chain tensioner, or bearings?
Hi, it all starts with the oil pressure test at idle and accelerating the engine. If you are getting a noise you may have something going on there. I haven’t heard balance shafts make noise so you may want to drop the pan and check the rod bearings. Checking the pan will also allow you to check for metal debris and build up in the pump and pan corners. Good luck!
Hi Kenny please i have an mk6 gti 2010 200k the engine run good coller everything the only issue is when the engine arrive to 90° and when im in low rmp from 1000 to 2000 rmp the car start to tell that low pressure but in the high way everything work good, you think is the oil pump to? I brought it already i need just to install it Please let me know
Hi there, it could be, but if it were a pump issue it wouldn't run good on the highway you would get an oil pressure light. The best way is to use a tester like I did verify oil pressure then go from there. Based on rpm I'd say you have a balance shaft issue where the filters in them have fallen apart or they are becoming worn reducing resistance of oil flow therefore reducing pressure.
I have the same issue with my Tiguan TSI, the sensor and oil filter are ok. I just open the oil pan and the plastic with the tube is ok. But I can figure it out that the oil pump is aftermarket and this could be the problem...
Hi Kenny I have a 2009 Jetta GLI. 2.0L. It’s a CCTA engine. I had a low oil pressure light came on. I changed the oil pressure sensor and I drove it for 2 hours. Then the light came back on for like 3-5 seconds, then It went away. I keep driving for 3 hours it never came back on. Do you think it could be a oil pump? The engine oil level is full and I don’t see any where it’s leaking. I changed the oil 1000 KM ago.
Hi, it's hard to say. I've seen the sensors go bad. So if you changed it and it doesn't come back on that could have been the issue. However, I would do an oil pressure test to be sure because you don't want premature engine damage that could have been avoided.
@@Joseavazquez hi, no the engine timing is independent of the oil pump. The pump has its own chain and tensioner which is driven from the crank. Putting oil in the pump before hand can help the priming of the pump and prevent dry run. It is a good practice although I have not had issues with the pump priming almost instantly as long as the engine is filled with oil prior to starting.
Not exactly sure but it would seem as though something with the pressure relief valve. All the drive gears and bearings were in tact and seemed to show minimal wear.
@@KennyChurchSpeed Yeah all 3rd gen tsi engines use the audi oil pump but for some reason the VW gen 1 engines use a different one to the gen 1 Audi ones. But weirdly enough when looking at the engine codes compatibility they are interchangeable, somehow i think thats false haha.
@@maxavaria I wouldn't think the pumps are interchangable with different styles. But I'm sure the pumps are the same as long as you source the same engine code.
Hi Rodrigo, no the oil pump is independent of the engine timing so no way to jump timing for the engine. The plastic guide I'm sure could break it excess force were put on it or if it were brittle. However there is not a lot of tension on it compared to the timing chain. Thanks for watching, hopefully it helped you!
Hi! I have an 2015 1.8t Golf that turns on the oil pressure warning at idle when it's warm. It doesn't turn on at higher speed and it doesn't make any knocking sounds. The only weird thing it does is that sometimes seems to hesitate when accelerating from a full stop. Anyway the dealer recommended replacing the oil pump and timing chains for almost $5k. My car only has 71,000 miles, do you think that the car will be ok if I just replace the oil pump?
The hesitation doesn't sound oil pressure related. That may actually be cam related if it is like the 2.0t. I'm not as familiar with the new 1.8t engine but I'd imagine it's close to the 2.0t. sometimes the intake cam wears a notch where the sprocket connects so it gets a slight movement before starting or engaging and you may notice a noise or hesitation. Usually a code appears for this. Also I wouldn't have dealer do the pump without a pressure test. If the light goes out when you are above idle that generally means you have oil flow which makes pressure. You could have a oil passage clogged with a broken filter or even a bad sensor. I'd get more details from any shop before spending that much on all of that work. It's a labor intense job for the chains and I've had a gti that had 256k on it on factory chains and tensioner. It's important to change the oil more frequently and honestly DRIVE the car. Take it to redline, floor it, they seem to last longer.
@@KennyChurchSpeed All of the oil sensors of my car where replaced and my personal mechanic replace an updated oil filter housing, but that did not fix the problem. Later on I took the car to the dealer and they hooked an oil pressure gauge to the car and confirmed that when the car is warm it indeed has low oil pressure (0.72 bar to be exact). As soon as you hit the gas, pressure builds up and the warning goes away and it wont appear until you leave it idling for few minutes. Ive seen a lot of people on youtube that has replace the oil pump without worrying about the timing chain going bad, so I might just do the same and save some money. Hope this finally fixes the issue. Thanks for the input!!! I greatly appreciated.
@@luisarsuaga7637 that is good to know that the sensors were replaced. It could be the pump, but again generally if the pump is bad it won't really build pressure when you rev the car up in the range unless somehow the pressure relief is opening at idle which doesn't make sense. You can try replacing the pump it isn't a terribly expensive option and if it works great and if it doesn't then it may be rod bearings wearing, cam bridge filters, or balance shaft filters blocked or damaged.
Nope, it is not required. The only part you need to worry about is the lower oil pump chain which isn’t timing related. The pump doesn’t care where the position of the crank or cam is, it only cares about moving oil.
Friend of mine has a 2011 tiguan that has 25-40psi while driving but barely 15psi when idling after driving the vehicle I haven't looked at it myself but I'm beginning to suspect that there's an internal failure with either the rod or cam bearings. Haven't worked on too many vws before, just thought I'd ask to see if I'm on the right track
Hey, is there an oil light? I was actually surprised how low oil pressure the tsi engines run compared to other cars. Of it is a ccta engine code it may be suffering from balance shaft wear which then can clog up filters in the balance shafts and cam bridge at the top end. There are various oil passages in these motors and I have not seen too many rod failures just everything else.
@@KennyChurchSpeed yes there is an oil light but it's on because he hooked up a manual oil pressure guage to monitor the pressure which after the oil change we did today didn't change much but the vehicle definitely needed it so should I look into the oil pump next or get the valve cover off?
@@batjeep5ter947 You won't be able to really see anything. Check the oil filter see if there is metal in it. Honestly these motors are so hard to diagnose because of all the oil passages and filters to protect components.
Hi Kenny, I got red trouble about Oil pressure after Oil engine temp 140'C!!. I think maybe cause from Oil pump not good or Balance Shaft leak. Do you have any idea about this?
Hi, it depends. If you are driving and the light goes out most likely not a pump issue, although the light can come on from time to time with balance shaft as well. You will first have to do the oil pressure test. If you have increasing pressure with rpm then less likely a pump.
Hey, just past 67k miles one 2009 GLI, it is giving me intermittent: Stop, oil pressure, engine off... I already changed the sensor, next step, this???
Hey I’m having this same problem on my 2013 the oil warning light would come on only at idle and when I’m up in the high Rpm’s. When it comes on I can’t go pass 4000rpm and the eps light would also come on. I had the pick screen changed but it’s the same thing. I guess I’ll have to roll the dice and change the oil pump.
Hi, I was able to rev all the way to redline if I wanted to.bthay may have been a change for the later years. Honestly there are so many filters due to oil run components it's hard to tell where the root of the problem is. First check is always true pressure, not the light. Then go from there. Mine didn't come on while idling only when really driving.
There is a gasket for the baffle tray, where is that gasket supposed to go? I got one with the replacement kit I bought, but didn't see any gasket like this when I took it down...
I'm not sure what gasket you are referring to. The only gasket or o-ring in the assembly is the pickup tube. I don't recall a gasket for the plastic baffle as it doesn't seal anyhting.
@@KennyChurchSpeed I do have the O ring for the pick up. This piece is like an inch wide rubber washer. It fit perfectly on the top side of the baffle opposite of where the oil pump relief valve that attaches to the bottom of the baffle...
@@modetoo let me check the part number. I don't recall a rubber seal although I didn't replace the baffle so I can't say I had to take a seal out. It may have been attached to the baffle. That being said if you take yours out and can't find where it is then you didn't have one.
It looks like from the vw diagram it goes in the one corner of baffle/windage tray. Rear Transmission side. Google thr part number it's like the 15th picture that shows up.
If the gage is reading zero that isn’t a good sign. Does it go up when you give it throttle and in rpm? If you have no pressure at idle either you have no oil flow at all, or the orifices that create pressure are open so something is worn. Start with the pump and rod bearings. Easy enough to pull the oil pan and see what you find.
Hey i have had my timing serviced, balance shafts replaced.. im in the process replacing vvt solenoid and cleaning and inspecting cambridge due to seperate issue. My oil pressure is 15 psi at idle, but the light doesnt come on at idle, only after accelerating then slowing down.. Should i replace my pump? i have heard of a spring failure that leads to low oil pressure when cruising. I dont think my bearings are worn because it never clatters in the lower end i hear noise in cams though which makes me think pump is not creating enough volume to move oil to head your thoughts?
Hi, when you slow down, what rpm are you referring to? Or does it not matter, meaning it happens on decel regardless of rpm? The best way to identify is to measure the pressure with a gage at rpm range to see if there is an issue. How do the screens look in the cam bridge?
@@KennyChurchSpeed at around 2k rpms oil pressure light would come on, highway cruising it never came on. When tested with a gauge idle was 12-15 psi hot and it was a little below spec at 2k rpms dont remember an exact number.
@@KennyChurchSpeed Also waiting on parts and tools to remove cambridge, replacing my vvt solenoid anyway so im cleaning the cambridge and checking it for wear.
@@readylucas all good places to start. I usually replace the cam bridge for sanity as it isn't too expensive because it does support oil control. Your car based on rpm does sound like the pump. Depending on you cashflow, a pressure test could save you some money so worth it really.
@@KennyChurchSpeed update. Sad but it is what it is. My cambridge was badly worn. Screen blew out and starved oil to my cams and vvt solenoid. I cleaned the cambridge, and replacing solenoid. I dont have the money for the parts (intake cam, exaust cam, cambridge) assuming head is even in good enough condition to swap new ones in. My low oil pressure at idle is pretty obvious to me now. Bought the car used oil was really dirty. I guess after i changed it n drove it screen broke loose and ate my cams. Accounting for excess clearance and failure of intake cam solenoid. Short term im adding lucas 100 weight stabilizer with liqui moly 5w40, mann filter. Cleaned cambridge and ends of cams with marvel mystery oil. Cambridge is back on and tomorrow im intalling solenoid when it comes in. Made sure to pull out screen. Future repairs i plan on replacing the cylinder head and oil pump. Oil pump as preventive maintainance. I have brand new chains and tensioners, and hope that with a new cylinder head and pump ill have a solid running engine.. also i know oil stabilizers dont fix the issue but with no money to fix the car im gonna see how many miles i get before the cylinder head finally gives.
Technically, it may need to be. I'm actually not sure what the manual references. You can put oil in it before installation but the pump is a mechanical gear type so it tends to just leak out. Every pump I've put in, including vr6 engines I've installed cranked and it's built pressure right away. Especially in a used engine, it already has oil in all the parts that rotate. While you don't want it running for long without fresh oil, usually withing cranking and the first second of running you have oil pressure.
Hi, I am actually not sure. I didn't even test it after there was no light. I believe below 34 psi at 2000 to 2500 rpm the light will come on. I know my other engines are somewhere between 50-75 depending on oil temp.
hey kenny, i have the "low oil pressure turn engine off" thing that comes on the mfi, it only comes after a hard acceleration, is this a pump issue or a bearings issue?
@@KennyChurchSpeed wow thanks for the quick reply! it does have enough oil in it, it comes on after decel, and im getting a gauge to check the pressure tomorrow
@@dxmnc checking pressure at all rpms is a good start. I've also seen that the pressure sensors go bad. I've also seen rod bearings fail with high oil pressure. Unfortunately with these cars there are ALOT of variables with the balance shafts, high pressure fuel pump oil galleys ect. Have you noticed metal in your oil?
Kenny Church i have no clue because i don’t change my own oil because i don’t have a jack, when i got it changed 2000 miles ago they said nothing about shavings i’m the oil. my buddy said it could be the PCV going bad because i don’t have a whine under acceleration with my intake. really hoping it’s just the sensor. i’ll check it and let you know
No you don't. And pump pressure is dependent on rpm and temperature. I believe I mention correct pressure in the video. Should be minimum 38psi at 2500 of I remember correctly.
@@JamAMartinez hi, what is the pressure like when up to operating temp? If it comes on sporadically it may be the balance shafts. If you have a ccta engine code this is far more common than cbfa from what I have seen.
Just did the pump on my 2012 A3 and your video made it insanely easy. Thanks so much for taking the time to document this process!
Thank you, I'm glad it helped! Thanks for the feedback!
Well done video mister. Was baffled by the chain and how to install the oil pump with the timing cover in place. Appreciate your information and I might suggest you doing more videos, because you have a very good delivery. Mega-props Sir. Carry on.
Thanks, very much appreciated! I'll definitely work on more!
FYI, for those of you who've had to remove their mk5 or mk6 tsi oil pan more than once or plan to remove it regularly for inspection, you can upgrade to an mk7 oil pan (or even an aftermarket performance oil pan from Wortek), which uses a proper o ring gasket instead of rtv silicone.
Thanks for posting and keeping folks informed.
Can it be used on the older style? Or the new style pan has the indentations for it?
One of the best I've seen on this issue.
I have 170K Oil Pressure light coming on with daily use after about 5mins of driving. While accelerating, in town, it will come on and blink. On the highway, going over 60mph, no light, nothing. Warning goes away. Perfectly running. But as soon as I get below 60 in traffic or exit BEEP Oil Pressure. VW told me turbo needed replacement because too much was in there. Another mech said oil pump, BUT get a whole new engine. What do you think? Thanks for your time, and once again, great vid
Hi, thanks for the comment. It's a tough call. The first thing to do is to check oil pressure, it could be as simple as a sensor. Turbo is highly unlikely. Depending on the engine code ccta engines were more prone to balance shaft failures which can cause the issue. There is also a cam girdle that has screens that also control oil pressure. You can go in circles to really find the problem. Start with pressure test. Let me know.
I follow your channel I wanted to congratulate you, and I would like to see with you about my jetta is a 200 hp TSI 2012, some week ago I made an overtaking he turned on the EPC light, I stopped turning off and turned on the car again and the light went out and continued, but when it accelerates for someone there for a while near 4000 RPM it lights up again, in the scan he accuses the error P164B error in the oil pressure sensor, that's where the mechanics are going crazy lol the car doesn't lower oil , does not beat engine or valve, does not smoke and does not lose power only limits after lighting the EPC, then we put the oil pressure gauge in place of the brown sensor in slow it gives 1.2 bar to 2000 RPM around 1.8 bar and then it is even accelerating sometimes it gives some peaks in the pressure gauge indicator very fast, I changed this brown sensor When you turned on the light and a noise in the high gasoline pump, the one that is on top of the engine from 2000 rpm, it makes a noise, it looks like friction, would you have any tips for us to test ???
Thank you, I look forward to your reply
Hug
Hi, thanks for the comments! How many miles does your Jetta have? With the epic light does it indicate low oil pressure to stop? If you are having spikes in oil pressure that is not normal. You should have very linear pressure up to a point because the pump will help regulate excess pressure (flow) back into the oil pan.
i have the same issue in a jetta 2013, did you solve it?
Hi. Have the same issue. Do anyone of you solved it? Might check the cambridge because sadly I think I heard the noise from the HPFP as well and I guess it's likely to be caused by oil starvation in the far end of the exhaust cam, and it seems all head oil passages come after the cambridge oil screen. @KennyChurchSpeed
Thank you for taking the time to put this vid together!
My issue started after a botched valve decarb. My idiot cousin said he knew what he was doing but ended up f-ing everything up. Had to take the car to the shop for valve job, but now the shop doesn't want to mess with it anymore. They're just not used to these kinds of repairs and have a long wait list due to labor shortages.
I guess my question is, what is the most likely scenario here? Oil pressure registers normal at higher RPM, but drops to nothing at idle. Mechanic says there are shavings in the oil and there is likely a blockage somewhere, but the pick up tube screen looks normal. So where could this blockage be? Could this be a bad oil pump?
It sucks because the car is in otherwise great shape and I'd hate to simply drop another engine in it or junk it.
@TrollBuster thanks for the kind words and you're welcome.
As far as your questions, what did your cousin screw up? When you do a valve cleaning you don't need to do anything with timing that would lead to a valve job unless there was a tool left in the cylinder?
As far as what's next, if you have checked oil pressure with a gauge and you see good pressure at rpm then it typically isn't a pump issue. If you have low pressure at idle it could mean you have bearing failure( result of cleaning valves and solvent getting into cylinders and leaking into oil reducing lubrication properties), or the screens in the cam bridge blew out, or balance shafts are wearing. The unfortunate part of these engines is there are a lot of passages that prevent oil flow(hence creating pressure) so when they are absent pressure is reduced.
What I have learned is once there is an oil pressure issue you have to replace all the components and check the bearings at least. The balance shafts, cam bridge, rod bearings, cam journals all contribute to ensuring pressure is created.
I hope this helps...
@@KennyChurchSpeed Thank you for your insights. I think my cousin used the wrong medium (too fine) to blast the carbon, and didn't take proper precautions to ensure the fine medium didn't get where it shouldn't have. I suspect that's what those "shavings" are -- medium particles that ended up circulating in the oil, causing a clog that starved the engine of oil pressure and damaged it (I haven't personally seen the particles, I'm just going by what the mechanic said on the phone). I'm not ready to give up on it tho. If it is a clog, I think the logical thing to do is disassemble it and clean out every orifice where oil flows, replace any parts that show clear signs of wear/damage, and put it all back together. I know it's labor intensive and therefore expensive, but I'm just not ready to give up on it. I don't know, maybe I'm just an idiot and don't know what I'm talking about... lol
@@marco1173 I'd give you an "A" for effort and it certainly can be done. The balance shafts are the hardest thing to remove with the engine in the car. Everything else is cake. Also you need a special tool to remove valve cover because it's the cam cap/girdle assemble in one. If media got into the cylinders you may have more problems than just oil pressure. You may want to consider time and effort versus cost of a used running engine.
@@KennyChurchSpeed That's just it. The shop says the only used engine they could find has 75k miles on it and the total cost of engine+installation is $6700. That's just crazy, especially when I can order a complete brand-new engine assembly from the dealer for under $5k. In any case, it's turning out to be a very expensive decarb job. I haven't talked to my cousin since this happened, but I can't hold a grudge forever. I just need to get this thing back running again. I truly miss driving it.
@@marco1173 I understand your predicament. It sounds like your cousins heart was in the right place, but perhaps he didn't have the skill set. My fear for you is if you got media in the cylinder and it scores the bore you will need rings and honing.
Thanks, this was very detailed and helpful.
You're welcome, glad it could help. Thanks for watching!
i have to say , that was a very good video of this job .... THANKS !
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
my oil pressure light turns on when i decelerate coming off the highway. i did an oil+filter change 500 miles ago and dipped a magnet in my oil and didn’t see any shavings but i did notice thick sludgey oil. (oil changes every 3,500 mi.) but anywho, time for some deeper digging. Thanks for this informative video!
You're welcome and good luck. Start with the pressure test, if you are getting good readings throughout rpms it isn't the pump. Balance shafts can cause the pressure light at odd times as well. If the rod bearings were wearing you may hear extra noise and potential metal in the oil. Unfortunately it depends on the engine because my cbfa car had 256k on it with no engine issues. Ccta has alot more problems with balance shafts, particularly the little screens in them break down.
Kenny Church i recently had my valve/cam cover resealed. do you think somehow that could have contributed to this issue?
@@karinawashere did you have an issue before the reseal? I wouldn't think so unless and oil passage was blocked somehow. I've also heard of people having odd lights when the pcv leaks but I'd expect a check engine light for that not an oil pressure light.
Kenny Church i figured it out! turns out my oil pressure sensor was bad. Oil was in the plug
@@karinawashere great! That's a cheap fix and always the first to try!
Whats up Kenny man! Thanks for the helpful video!! I'm currently experiencing what most people on here are, oil pressure warning between 20 & 50mph, anything over rides with no issues at all. Done new sensor, checked wiring,, oil+filter. I then took it to Volkswagen, they said oil pressure is at 1.5 bar at 2000rpm. I got there, then the guy that helped me at front counter said, it's actually at 1.5 bar at idle and at any Rev amount (he did seem unsure about telling me this once I asked if the pressure changed at all at different rpms). You did state in previous comments that if your car rode well on highway that it wasn't a pump issue but I'm thinking it is? They wanted to drop the pan and inspect pickup tube for $500. Thanks to your video and a bit of elbow grease I should be able to get this done myself at home. Think I should go ahead and order the pump?
Hi! Thanks for watching, I would actually check the pressure first if you feel comfortable before getting a pump. Chances are however if you are driving and higher rpms and it comes on you probably have a pump issue. Usually at idle rod bearings cause low oil pressure and I've seen that with balance shafts as well. Good luck!
I was having the same problem 1 month ago, with 5w-30 for just 50km my oil pump blocked and crack the chain in the oil pump, after that, I change everything on my engine and still said low oil pressure... When oil is cold everything is okay but when oil comes 95+C, when iddle pressure is 0.5 bar when i put some torque, goes to 3-4 bar. Now I'm waiting for the new oil pump for 1.700 $ . And hope that this is the problem
@@Niko-ys7gt hey, thanks for watching. So what your saying is when the engine is warm and at idle you get the light? When you push the throttle the light goes away? Generally if you are increasing pressure with rpm then the pump is not the culprit. You could have a balance shaft screen that is clogged or rod bearings that have excessive wear due to oil pump restriction. It doesn't take long to smoke the bearings with and engine and no oil.
Hey I’m doing this on my GLI today. I’m very thankful for the video you made really. Now is that oil pump you installed still operating well?
Hi, Im glad it could help! Well, I sold the car about 2 years ago, but at the time there was no oil light or issues. So this certainly resolved my problem. I hope it resolves your issue as well!
@@KennyChurchSpeed thank you. I literally did the work a couple hours ago. I’m letting it sit in my shop overnight before filling and will see if it stops my issue. I get the light at low rpm when the car is at operating temp
Hi Kenny! Great video I'm now more confident on doing this myself. I have a 2011 GTI with 124k miles atm and I've been dealing with low oil pressure warnings every now and then for a while now. I've seen it only occurs when it's really hot outside and car is driven for about 20 minutes. If I shut it off and back on the light goes away. I've so far replaced oil pressure switch, oil filter spring and still have the error. My next shot is changing the oil pick up but I'm really not sure if that's going to solve it. I have personally not checked oil pressure but previous owner did and pressure was withing spec. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.
Thanks, you're welcome! These motors are funny, but other than checking oil pressure and of it is within specification, then it can be balance shafts or the cam bridge screens. From my experience, the ccta engine codes have more of these problems than the cbfa for some reason.
@@KennyChurchSpeed this is a CBFA engine. Cambridge was replaced and balance shafts "checked" by mechanic about 4k miles ago when I replaced timing tensioner, guides and chains and he said everything was fine. Car has been basically been going on like this for about 5k miles now but I wish I could find the culprit and fix it.
@@raherre the best is to perform and oil pressure test to confirm you have oil flow and pressure building. If not it may be a pump issue.
Change the oil pressure switch
@@cattuneweyze7723 he said he did.
Very good Job done. Its you spoken about it. Very good interesting 👍
@@malcomewest6551 thanks! I appreciate the feedback.
I have the exact same issue, I'm looking to replace the pump soon. My car doesnt seem to have any mayor issues besides the pump,but I will be driving it like 2 more weeks before I can purchase the pump. Do you think I will be okay driving it like that till I can purchase pump??. BTW thanks for the video, it's very helpful.
Hi, thanks for watching and I’m glad to hear it is helpful. I would suggest not driving it if you can help it. You need the lubrication, especially at higher rpms. A $300 pump could cost you way more if you continue to drive it with low oil pressure. Good luck!
Thank you for making this video 👍
Absolutely, thanks for commenting.
Not doing an oil pump, but doing timing chains on my wifes 2.0tsi beetle, by the looks of things am i right to assume the only way to get the damn oil pump drive chain out is to drop the oil pan ?
Hey, I think so based on where the tensioner is located. There may be some way to magically get it but for the time it takes to pull the pan, probably not even worth it. Also be careful when putting the crank pulley back on because you can bolt it back together without those triangular shaped teeth on the back.
Also check the balance shafts while your there, and also the cam bridge at the top end. Those screens tend to pop out and may cause a pressure light. I ended up replacing everything in my car as a precaution.
Good luck!
Great Video! Thank You! I was just reading all of your excellent responses I did a pump but I’m still getting low pressure. It’s been going on
On and off since 115K miles and now more frequently at 161K! My pickup tube had some junk in it so I was hopeful. I need to do some more troubleshooting. The car drives great but I get that intermittent low pressure warning more frequently.
Thank you, when do you get the light? On decel, low rpm, high rpm, startup?
Excellent video, I learned a lot!
Awesome, glad to hear it!
Excellent video, thanks for the details explanation,
Thank you, I’m glad it helped you! Thanks for the feedback.
Great video! Do I want the right stuff black or grey?
Thanks, I actually didn't realize they make a grey, however I just use the black. There are two different cure versions offered. I use the quicker curing stuff, but really depends if you are trying to get the road right after or if you have time to wait until it cures.
Hey. Is there an actual gasket available for oil pan. I am seeing there are..or do you recommend gasket maker?
i have a 09 cc, i just dumped out 5k to get the timing and head redone, NOW im having oil pressure issues.. 3 years after you did this, is all still good for you? thanks for video!
Hi, thanks for watching. I actually sold the car last year so I am unaware of what has happened since. However I did drive it for two years with no issues. With that in mind I did replace the cam bridge, balance shafts, oil pump, and chains and had the head fully cleaned when I bought the car because it had bent valves.
Thanks for video, i have "low oil pressure" light when engine is fully heated (after 10-15 minutes driving) and there is 0.2 bar on mechanical gauge... what do you think is it bearings failure or just pump? Thanks a lot again.
You're welcome. Does the pressure increase with rpm or stay at the same pressure when increasing rpm?
it's increasing until 2.5 bar at 4 rpm, but at cold engine its fine pressure
@@borosa100qwertyui7 Generally if you have a pressure increase with rpm that means you have fluid flow(oil pumping) no matter what temp. So it could be rod bearings or the balance shaft filters or bearing surfaces. Hard to say, but rod bearings are easier to inspect than the balance shafts.
@@KennyChurchSpeed thank you for advice, i am just going to see what happens inside...
@@borosa100qwertyui7 good luck. I know the feeling.
thnx for the step by step video kenny
You're welcome! I hope it has helped you.
helpd me replacibg it following ur steps hope it fixed my issue thnx in advance.
How important is that plastic baffle that sits around the pickup tube, what’s its purpose?
thank u so much for all those informations appreciete the work
Thanks for watching, I hope it helped!!
@@KennyChurchSpeed yes so much m just in the learning phase and m learning the much i can to open my workshop but i will focus just in keys and coding ECM to get more power
@@KennyChurchSpeed but i'm realy so glade to found your channel m learning from u a lot of thing that gonna use maybe in futur /
like erasing the exhaust line from the ECU eeprom so with u i can also delete the physical things too hahaha like EGR / DPF / ADBLUE easy bizi so thank u a lot bro
Pro tip prime your pump with assembly lube it won’t drain out and down your arm
Thanks not a bad tip!
I have a similar problem with my 2.0 tsi jetta. I have had the oil pressure light come on and beep at me when decelerating for some time. Even more recent i have started getting a very loud knocking sound. Oil pressure was around 36 psi which is a little low. Could this be an oil pump? or something else like balance shafts, timing chain tensioner, or bearings?
Hi, it all starts with the oil pressure test at idle and accelerating the engine. If you are getting a noise you may have something going on there. I haven’t heard balance shafts make noise so you may want to drop the pan and check the rod bearings. Checking the pan will also allow you to check for metal debris and build up in the pump and pan corners. Good luck!
Hi Kenny please i have an mk6 gti 2010 200k the engine run good coller everything the only issue is when the engine arrive to 90° and when im in low rmp from 1000 to 2000 rmp the car start to tell that low pressure but in the high way everything work good, you think is the oil pump to? I brought it already i need just to install it
Please let me know
Hi there, it could be, but if it were a pump issue it wouldn't run good on the highway you would get an oil pressure light. The best way is to use a tester like I did verify oil pressure then go from there. Based on rpm I'd say you have a balance shaft issue where the filters in them have fallen apart or they are becoming worn reducing resistance of oil flow therefore reducing pressure.
Please help me, Where is located the oil pump on golf mk7 gti ??
I have the same issue with my Tiguan TSI, the sensor and oil filter are ok. I just open the oil pan and the plastic with the tube is ok. But I can figure it out that the oil pump is aftermarket and this could be the problem...
Did you check oil pressure with an external gauge?
@@KennyChurchSpeed not yet, I'm thinking to make it
@@KennyChurchSpeed I'm checking today, and if the pressure is lower?
Thanks bro. You helped me out a lot.
Hi Kenny I have a 2009 Jetta GLI. 2.0L. It’s a CCTA engine. I had a low oil pressure light came on. I changed the oil pressure sensor and I drove it for 2 hours. Then the light came back on for like 3-5 seconds, then It went away. I keep driving for 3 hours it never came back on. Do you think it could be a oil pump? The engine oil level is full and I don’t see any where it’s leaking. I changed the oil 1000 KM ago.
Hi, it's hard to say. I've seen the sensors go bad. So if you changed it and it doesn't come back on that could have been the issue. However, I would do an oil pressure test to be sure because you don't want premature engine damage that could have been avoided.
Hey brother is this the same engine, 2.0 TSI found in the 2015 Tiguan? Thanks.
I follow , i need change my oil pump on mk7 gti
Hi Kenny! It is possible the timming slip with this procedure?
if i skip the put some oil into the pump, the oil pump could be damage? and some noise comes?
@@Joseavazquez hi, no the engine timing is independent of the oil pump. The pump has its own chain and tensioner which is driven from the crank.
Putting oil in the pump before hand can help the priming of the pump and prevent dry run. It is a good practice although I have not had issues with the pump priming almost instantly as long as the engine is filled with oil prior to starting.
What actually broke in the old pump??Thanks
Not exactly sure but it would seem as though something with the pressure relief valve. All the drive gears and bearings were in tact and seemed to show minimal wear.
I wonder do you know what is the difference between the audi and VW pump as they use different pumps, atleast in the way they look.
@Bigdick Johnson I believe the Audi is similar to the golf R pump and has balance shaft within. There is a difference in the fsi versus tsi.
@@KennyChurchSpeed Yeah all 3rd gen tsi engines use the audi oil pump but for some reason the VW gen 1 engines use a different one to the gen 1 Audi ones. But weirdly enough when looking at the engine codes compatibility they are interchangeable, somehow i think thats false haha.
@@maxavaria I wouldn't think the pumps are interchangable with different styles. But I'm sure the pumps are the same as long as you source the same engine code.
hi kenny, is there a risk to break plastic guide tensioner or "jump" a few teeths in chain/sprocket when you pull out to take out pump sprocket?
Hi Rodrigo, no the oil pump is independent of the engine timing so no way to jump timing for the engine. The plastic guide I'm sure could break it excess force were put on it or if it were brittle. However there is not a lot of tension on it compared to the timing chain. Thanks for watching, hopefully it helped you!
Hi! I have an 2015 1.8t Golf that turns on the oil pressure warning at idle when it's warm. It doesn't turn on at higher speed and it doesn't make any knocking sounds. The only weird thing it does is that sometimes seems to hesitate when accelerating from a full stop. Anyway the dealer recommended replacing the oil pump and timing chains for almost $5k. My car only has 71,000 miles, do you think that the car will be ok if I just replace the oil pump?
The hesitation doesn't sound oil pressure related. That may actually be cam related if it is like the 2.0t. I'm not as familiar with the new 1.8t engine but I'd imagine it's close to the 2.0t. sometimes the intake cam wears a notch where the sprocket connects so it gets a slight movement before starting or engaging and you may notice a noise or hesitation. Usually a code appears for this. Also I wouldn't have dealer do the pump without a pressure test. If the light goes out when you are above idle that generally means you have oil flow which makes pressure. You could have a oil passage clogged with a broken filter or even a bad sensor. I'd get more details from any shop before spending that much on all of that work. It's a labor intense job for the chains and I've had a gti that had 256k on it on factory chains and tensioner. It's important to change the oil more frequently and honestly DRIVE the car. Take it to redline, floor it, they seem to last longer.
@@KennyChurchSpeed All of the oil sensors of my car where replaced and my personal mechanic replace an updated oil filter housing, but that did not fix the problem. Later on I took the car to the dealer and they hooked an oil pressure gauge to the car and confirmed that when the car is warm it indeed has low oil pressure (0.72 bar to be exact). As soon as you hit the gas, pressure builds up and the warning goes away and it wont appear until you leave it idling for few minutes. Ive seen a lot of people on youtube that has replace the oil pump without worrying about the timing chain going bad, so I might just do the same and save some money. Hope this finally fixes the issue. Thanks for the input!!! I greatly appreciated.
@@luisarsuaga7637 that is good to know that the sensors were replaced. It could be the pump, but again generally if the pump is bad it won't really build pressure when you rev the car up in the range unless somehow the pressure relief is opening at idle which doesn't make sense. You can try replacing the pump it isn't a terribly expensive option and if it works great and if it doesn't then it may be rod bearings wearing, cam bridge filters, or balance shaft filters blocked or damaged.
So you didnt remove lower timing cover to do this job?
Nope, it is not required. The only part you need to worry about is the lower oil pump chain which isn’t timing related. The pump doesn’t care where the position of the crank or cam is, it only cares about moving oil.
Friend of mine has a 2011 tiguan that has 25-40psi while driving but barely 15psi when idling after driving the vehicle I haven't looked at it myself but I'm beginning to suspect that there's an internal failure with either the rod or cam bearings. Haven't worked on too many vws before, just thought I'd ask to see if I'm on the right track
Hey, is there an oil light? I was actually surprised how low oil pressure the tsi engines run compared to other cars. Of it is a ccta engine code it may be suffering from balance shaft wear which then can clog up filters in the balance shafts and cam bridge at the top end. There are various oil passages in these motors and I have not seen too many rod failures just everything else.
@@KennyChurchSpeed yes there is an oil light but it's on because he hooked up a manual oil pressure guage to monitor the pressure which after the oil change we did today didn't change much but the vehicle definitely needed it so should I look into the oil pump next or get the valve cover off?
@@batjeep5ter947 You won't be able to really see anything. Check the oil filter see if there is metal in it. Honestly these motors are so hard to diagnose because of all the oil passages and filters to protect components.
Hello.What is model of oil pressure gauge ?Thanks
Hi, I believe it is an OEM tools gauge. I believe I paid something like 120 dollars for it. You can buy one on Amazon or local auto parts store.
@@KennyChurchSpeed thank you for information.Can you write model of gauge if you remember? Also I will try find it in WinElsa.
Hi Kenny, I got red trouble about Oil pressure after Oil engine temp 140'C!!. I think maybe cause from Oil pump not good or Balance Shaft leak. Do you have any idea about this?
Hi, it depends. If you are driving and the light goes out most likely not a pump issue, although the light can come on from time to time with balance shaft as well. You will first have to do the oil pressure test. If you have increasing pressure with rpm then less likely a pump.
Hey, just past 67k miles one 2009 GLI, it is giving me intermittent: Stop, oil pressure, engine off...
I already changed the sensor, next step, this???
Hi, follow the video. Check oil pressure and go from there. It sounds like what my car was doing with a pump issue.
Hey I’m having this same problem on my 2013 the oil warning light would come on only at idle and when I’m up in the high Rpm’s. When it comes on I can’t go pass 4000rpm and the eps light would also come on. I had the pick screen changed but it’s the same thing. I guess I’ll have to roll the dice and change the oil pump.
Hi, I was able to rev all the way to redline if I wanted to.bthay may have been a change for the later years. Honestly there are so many filters due to oil run components it's hard to tell where the root of the problem is. First check is always true pressure, not the light. Then go from there. Mine didn't come on while idling only when really driving.
Hi,i have same issues, did you find out what was the issues?
Curious, did this solve the problem?
It most certainly did. Oil light did not return and drove the car for 30k miles prior to selling it.
There is a gasket for the baffle tray, where is that gasket supposed to go? I got one with the replacement kit I bought, but didn't see any gasket like this when I took it down...
I'm not sure what gasket you are referring to. The only gasket or o-ring in the assembly is the pickup tube. I don't recall a gasket for the plastic baffle as it doesn't seal anyhting.
@@KennyChurchSpeed I do have the O ring for the pick up. This piece is like an inch wide rubber washer. It fit perfectly on the top side of the baffle opposite of where the oil pump relief valve that attaches to the bottom of the baffle...
@@KennyChurchSpeed part number 06J103147 on VW Parts website
@@modetoo let me check the part number. I don't recall a rubber seal although I didn't replace the baffle so I can't say I had to take a seal out. It may have been attached to the baffle. That being said if you take yours out and can't find where it is then you didn't have one.
It looks like from the vw diagram it goes in the one corner of baffle/windage tray. Rear Transmission side. Google thr part number it's like the 15th picture that shows up.
Hi, Kenny
Mine got a problem is when rev over than 4k rpm will pop out oil pressure problem don't over 4000rpm
Have you checked pressure with a gage?
Hello I have a Tiguan 2.0 that gives me 0 with the pressure meter that can be
If the gage is reading zero that isn’t a good sign. Does it go up when you give it throttle and in rpm? If you have no pressure at idle either you have no oil flow at all, or the orifices that create pressure are open so something is worn. Start with the pump and rod bearings. Easy enough to pull the oil pan and see what you find.
Hey i have had my timing serviced, balance shafts replaced.. im in the process replacing vvt solenoid and cleaning and inspecting cambridge due to seperate issue. My oil pressure is 15 psi at idle, but the light doesnt come on at idle, only after accelerating then slowing down.. Should i replace my pump? i have heard of a spring failure that leads to low oil pressure when cruising. I dont think my bearings are worn because it never clatters in the lower end i hear noise in cams though which makes me think pump is not creating enough volume to move oil to head
your thoughts?
Hi, when you slow down, what rpm are you referring to? Or does it not matter, meaning it happens on decel regardless of rpm? The best way to identify is to measure the pressure with a gage at rpm range to see if there is an issue. How do the screens look in the cam bridge?
@@KennyChurchSpeed at around 2k rpms oil pressure light would come on, highway cruising it never came on. When tested with a gauge idle was 12-15 psi hot and it was a little below spec at 2k rpms dont remember an exact number.
@@KennyChurchSpeed Also waiting on parts and tools to remove cambridge, replacing my vvt solenoid anyway so im cleaning the cambridge and checking it for wear.
@@readylucas all good places to start. I usually replace the cam bridge for sanity as it isn't too expensive because it does support oil control. Your car based on rpm does sound like the pump. Depending on you cashflow, a pressure test could save you some money so worth it really.
@@KennyChurchSpeed update. Sad but it is what it is. My cambridge was badly worn. Screen blew out and starved oil to my cams and vvt solenoid. I cleaned the cambridge, and replacing solenoid. I dont have the money for the parts (intake cam, exaust cam, cambridge) assuming head is even in good enough condition to swap new ones in. My low oil pressure at idle is pretty obvious to me now. Bought the car used oil was really dirty. I guess after i changed it n drove it screen broke loose and ate my cams. Accounting for excess clearance and failure of intake cam solenoid. Short term im adding lucas 100 weight stabilizer with liqui moly 5w40, mann filter. Cleaned cambridge and ends of cams with marvel mystery oil. Cambridge is back on and tomorrow im intalling solenoid when it comes in. Made sure to pull out screen. Future repairs i plan on replacing the cylinder head and oil pump. Oil pump as preventive maintainance. I have brand new chains and tensioners, and hope that with a new cylinder head and pump ill have a solid running engine.. also i know oil stabilizers dont fix the issue but with no money to fix the car im gonna see how many miles i get before the cylinder head finally gives.
Thanks
You're welcome
hi dose the oil pump need to be primed
Technically, it may need to be. I'm actually not sure what the manual references. You can put oil in it before installation but the pump is a mechanical gear type so it tends to just leak out. Every pump I've put in, including vr6 engines I've installed cranked and it's built pressure right away. Especially in a used engine, it already has oil in all the parts that rotate. While you don't want it running for long without fresh oil, usually withing cranking and the first second of running you have oil pressure.
Hello Kenny, could low oil pressure cause low turbo boost?
Hi, only if the turbo was starved of oil and the turbine no longer spins.
the oil pressure sensor light comes on at around 4000rpm so I guess the oil gets to the turbines.
Muy buen video y detallado es de gran ayuda. Gracias 👌
Great video! I’ve changed out the pump with a Kit from ECS and I’m still having problems. My motor is a CCTA with 161K. Any ideas
Will this work on a 2009 VW CC?
If it is a ccta engine code and is a tsi engine with a timing chain, then yes it should.
What was your pressure after the pump instal?
Hi, I am actually not sure. I didn't even test it after there was no light. I believe below 34 psi at 2000 to 2500 rpm the light will come on. I know my other engines are somewhere between 50-75 depending on oil temp.
hey kenny, i have the "low oil pressure turn engine off" thing that comes on the mfi, it only comes after a hard acceleration, is this a pump issue or a bearings issue?
Hi, do you have enough oil in the car? Does it come on after decel or during hard acceleration? Have you checked the pressure using a gauge?
@@KennyChurchSpeed wow thanks for the quick reply! it does have enough oil in it, it comes on after decel, and im getting a gauge to check the pressure tomorrow
@@dxmnc checking pressure at all rpms is a good start. I've also seen that the pressure sensors go bad. I've also seen rod bearings fail with high oil pressure. Unfortunately with these cars there are ALOT of variables with the balance shafts, high pressure fuel pump oil galleys ect. Have you noticed metal in your oil?
Kenny Church i have no clue because i don’t change my own oil because i don’t have a jack, when i got it changed 2000 miles ago they said nothing about shavings i’m the oil. my buddy said it could be the PCV going bad because i don’t have a whine under acceleration with my intake. really hoping it’s just the sensor. i’ll check it and let you know
@@dxmnc the pcv will not cause an oil pressure warning as far as I know, generally just vacuum or idle issues. Good luck!
Is there a seal from pump to the block?
As I recall no there is not.
Thanks Kenney! My pump is cracked just ordered it.
@@pjmac341 cool, your welcome. I hope nothing else happened with a cracked pump!
where did you buy your oil pump
From the dealer.
What is good pump pressure?
2 bars or 30psi at warm idle
Do I need a special vw tools?
No you don't. And pump pressure is dependent on rpm and temperature. I believe I mention correct pressure in the video. Should be minimum 38psi at 2500 of I remember correctly.
Kenny Church this video is such a great help thanks
@@JamAMartinez you're welcome, glad I could help!
Kenny Church I replaced the pump and sensor and 350 km the light came back on. What else can it be?
@@JamAMartinez hi, what is the pressure like when up to operating temp? If it comes on sporadically it may be the balance shafts. If you have a ccta engine code this is far more common than cbfa from what I have seen.
I do an oil change every 5,000?! Lol
That works, I do mine every 6500 using synthetic oil. Better than the 10000 mile interval that is stated in my opinion.
Is this video supposed to be helpful?!
Hey man do you have a number so I can call you and explain what I’m currently dealing with would be alot to type wish youtubeee had a call option
I do have a number, but I don't feel comfortable posting it on the internet haha.
Is the MK7 the same way
I’m not 100% sure, but I imagine it is pretty close being it is still a tsi and not much has changed.
Thanks
What was your pressure at idle?
25 psi and there was no change when revved up. I'm pretty sure I say that in the video too. Thanks for watching.