We run you through what’s happening in the workshop in todays video and the progress we are making. We have a slight dilemma, £1000 worth of Cosworth engine parts have gone missing
With respect to lost delivery. You are in the clear, the contract is between the sender and the courier, so on non receipt of item the courier is liable to the sender and its up to the sender to replace the missing goods and the courier to reimburse the sender
The whole engine is clamped together in a press and all the bolts and nuts run up and then the press is released to preload the bolts - you can't do it one by one because the blocks are so light the whole thing distorts. Even to release it you need to reclamp the whole thing together and then take the nuts and bolts out while the tension is off, then unclamp.
I. Think 🤔 these eco boost engines are just a grow away item now it’s absolutely crazy that you cannot rebuild them as I don’t think you can buy any internal parts and there’s no torque settings available to do anything to them. It’s a throw away society even with engines now how barmy is that now
if so would it be possible to hack your way around by creeping up to the torque 5ft.lb at a time for each bolt ? in the end it is the fasteners holding the lump together is it not ...
@@n1352-m1i Unlikely else the robot putting the engine together would do it that way. If you have pulled one apart it might be worth a try, but I don't think anyone would recommend it, and be prepared to scrap the car or get a different engine.
@@phillipmalkin1169 Most engines seem to be that way now. That's why it's important to buy from a reputable manufacturer and make sure you look after it and service it properly. The flip side of course is that an engine should last well over 100k, and be generally much better than an older engine. Unfortunately you don't get much of a voice as to the way the car industry progresses
@@JimboXX78 I suppose you mean 100kmiles ... my wifes '99 Citroen (V6 ES9) has covered about twice that, and when the gearbox failed (ZF 4HP20 - long story...) ~20k ago I coined that this "old" engine could still go on and decided to fix the gearbox. so far, so good... not all manufacturers invest in their customers' future, some may actually make mistakes on maintenance options detrimental to their customers interests.
Had a similar situation on an old Volvo B30 engine, turned out that the Haynes manual torque values had been wrong, turns out they had put the Nm value in place of the lb-ft value and converted that number to Nm. Cost me a brand new set of big end bearings. Lesson learned was to try and get my hands on the factory service manual rather than trust aftermarket documentation.
I had a delivery due early last week. 2 notifications over 4 days stating "delivery failed due to business closed", WHAT! we're open! Rang supplier to do something from their end, as simply can't communicate to courier at all. Thankfully, 3rd time lucky, but, courier dumped package & ran. Obviously ramifications are on going, they may lose contract from supplier.
Ilways kept a small freezer in my shop & kept valve seats , guides & bearings in it. I also had an old commercial oven just big enough to fit an XK head !🏴
Built plenty of Healey 3000 & 100-6's plus a lot of other types of BLMC cars back in the 60's and 70's. It was tough to get good parts back then. There was a lot of rebuilt and other crap parts sold back then. Our shop had plenty of disagreements with parts stores. We were in Arkansas, USA so you see the problem.
Ford / yamaha engine Zetec-S had the same. The block is torqued in the factory with a spesial jig, it runs all the bolts at the same time to specified torque keeping the flimsy block in even tension. It’s sad really, to waste the engine like that. You could make a girdle supporting the block from pan bolts and to head face and then open slowly in sequence.
There are torque settings for those engines. Remember doing those lupo engines ages ago, we contacted a local independent vw they found the settings on there dealer info.
I have access to ElsaWin the VAG system the garages use and it doesn't say anything about not being able to dismantle and reassemble parts for the 37Kw 50bhp 3 cylinder engine. Looking at the AHT engine code the main bearing cap torque is 75Nm . They don't appear to be a TTY bolt as normally I would expect a torque pre load and then angular offset.
Studs or bolts cutting their own threads which distort when tightened? So removing the studs or bolts damages the threads which essentially wrecks the engine? Just guessing...
I would recommend machining off the scroll at the rear of the crank and fitting the two piece silicon rubber seal on the BMC C type engine. Also take extra care with cleaning.the oil gallery & balance the crank as fine as possible. It’s ironic that you got the v8 MG/Rover engine from the US, as it is actually a small block Buick engine built under license by Rover! !
Some duratec and hondas are the same, any alloy block the best thing to do is torque it up with the crankshaft in according to the size if the bolt size, if it doesn't turn freely have it line-bored...jobs a good 'un 👍 done loads of the 2 lt mazda mx5 for the mx5 championship in the past...
Yes they were rubbish to start with hence why there cheap if it’s under warranty. I now understand Ford are now changing out of warranty eco boost engines as they new the engines were crap 💩 from day one ☝️And wouldn’t last that long
Vw used tension bolts which ran from the main bearing though the block and became the head studs. They where only loctite in so they are done so they are slightly tapered to prevent them from pulling up when the head is torqued but can be moved if they main caps are removed.
Bit like the old Rover long bolt engine layer cake engine all held together by massive long bolts a bit daunting on doing your first one understanding how it all works. But these new engines are just a throw away jobby you cannot get parts and there’s no torque setting available so just sadly a disposable thing now and I believe Ford are warranting all eco boost engine replacements even when out of warranty due to being a failure of an engine design issues lot of rods let go through the blocks
Had a good Rover V8 in my 83 Land Rover Pickup and a POS in my 92 Disco. The PU camshaft was good. The Disco, 2 camshafts flat. The Sagem ignition is horrible. The two Strombergs..need a lot of maintenance.
I heard that the blocks are stressed at the factory during a quicker manufacturing process and by taking off the main caps it relaxes the block out of shape , sounds possible but would like to know why ?
If i remember correctly short motors from ford are dirt cheap anyway but in the past when I've come across this I've got torque settings from the bearing supplier. The chap whos crank is locking solid I'd have a guess he's either got a cap on the wrong way round or the bearing surfaces (particularly the backs) aren't as clean as they could be
Without bearing clearance you have no oil pressure. Knife the crank & loose a few more grams. Kit car nice 👌. Busy shop is a happy shop. Besides the block on the machine 😞. 1000 pounds is a lot of $. Look up who signed for them and see if they are at a different place. On a another you tuber had his parts show up at a drs. Office. Freeze the inserts and heat the head up they should drop in place. Be safe team.
What if the engine had a plate on top & the head bolts were tq. To speck then the block will flex to normal position for the crank to spun free. Just a thought.
And sometimes people don't know, like the time I had a 'disagreement' with a ARP rep. I questioned him on torque values for ARP fasteners on a Rover V8 block. I recall 135ftlbs for the head was his recommendation, I told him it was an aluminium engine, this worried him not. No idea if they have since revised their data but that was probably fifteen years ago.
135ft/lbs is definitely too much for a aluminium block. That would pull the threads straight out of the aluminum. You have to beware of some of these reps, they likely have no training in engineering and are just glorified sales people that were flipping burgers at McDonald's two weeks ago.
I wonder if you torque the cyl head to spec, then torque the center main to spec and work your way out to the ends the same way. If the block is so flimsy the mains distort the block so badly, is the engine worth doing anything with?
While these engines are considered a throw away item why not to consider just remowing a crank(which is steel and does not deform if not force to do so) and putting big and caps back and torque them down lets say to any similar angines torque values.. measuring the deformation and see if its possible just to line bore them. so whole block acts as any regular one without any ''one time use item'' magic. of course not to forget to use torque plates all around and maybe see if these has significant effect on the big end caps bore, which could mean that its a one time use block by design if significant deformations are found. and maybe there be found special order for bolting and torqueing all the components to assemble long block. Just a thought..
seeing that block outside with the pressure washer reminded me of my experience. seven years ago i had to take the BMC C engine out of my 1955 Wolseley 6/90 due to weeping core plugs, it had been in the car since father in law worked on it in the late 1970's, when i removed the rear and side back 3 core plugs there was a high tide mark of sediment, the back 2 -1/2 cylinders had NO water reaching them, as i was doing a budget rebuild i pressure washed and used wire to remove all the crud, it took 4+ hours over a few days but it worked. after seeing the engine on here the other day i pulled the dizzy wire on mine, ran the engine till oil pressure came up, reconnected the dizzy and it started right up, 1st time in 2 years, i'm motivated to pull the engine out and get the gearbox sorted now that i have the parts needed from some parts cars.
@Kris Nicholsonthe few mice we see are usually caught by the cats, and the ones down near my 3 sheds (garages) have to contend with eastern brown snakes, there is a LOT of food for mice (fortunately) aside from eating my cars. i've seen a few browns around my sheds, but luckily none seen in the sheds, they are the second most deadly snake on the planet
@Kris Nicholson the car has had a mechanical rebuild 5-7 years ago, engine, gearbox, differential and all wheel bearings & brakes. i got it all together and found i couldn't get all gears, i got cross shafts from one parts cars and better bronze gear selectors from the other, life has thrown a few nasty surprises since then, hence the delay.
@Kris Nicholson until i moved to country Victoria 20 years ago i had never seen a snake (except at the zoo), but yes red backs were common in sheds and gardens, you get used to wearing gloves. after the country move the closest i got to an eastern brown was opening one of the sheds and noticed movement less than 2 foot away from my boot, it was a 5 foot brown sunning itself in the morning sun, i backed away while telling it how beautiful it was, when i came back with a long handled rake it scarpered before i got within a yard from it. i keep the grass alongside that shed real short since then, that said they are a daytime hunter so i can take the dogs for a night patrol of the perimeter of my 5 acres without fear of the browns being about, we also have tiger snakes (night hunters) in the region but only one has been reported in the area in 20 years i've been here. all that said i think people who enter the rivers up north or into the ocean are bloody morons, if you get into a shark or crocodiles lunchbox you are on the bloody menu. when you KNOW what might be around you behave accordingly, just like driving a car really, you are constantly watching and avoiding the deadly cretins that shouldn't be on the road. cheers mate nice chatting with you.
I have a vw passat 2015 2l diesel 180,000 miles still going well. You say about a refreshing what would recommend and what price would I be looking at.
@@tractorhead971 It is, I was just Googling on that, but there might be different specs as per tune and set-up. Some on-line sites don't mention the US derivation, if it's the 3.5L alumin(i)um block, which is unfortunate, as when produced, it was the most widely used lightweight V8 in the world: (It weighed less than equivalent UK iron fours) [There are enough parts out there that the U.K. hot-rodding set treats it something like Americans treat the small-block Chevy: lots of mix-and-match parts interchangeability, with basic parts cheap and plentiful enough to keep 'em running forever. Or at least a lot longer than GM would have let it go.] - Buick 215-cu in. V-8/Rover 3.5L American ex-pat power becomes Blighty's favorite V-8 By Jeff Koch from April 2011 issue of Hemmings Sports and Exotics This bodes very well if the owner wants to take the car Stateside. Service on a lot of European classics is tough enough in the UK, even tougher in North Am. I can see why Lee is salivating to work on it.
Can't wait to see the rebuild of the 3.5L v8 I rebuilt a 4.6L v8 last year putting 4.0L v8 pistons in to increase compression and put a H180 Kent camshaft in so it's a better tow vehicle now Will be nice to see what you do to the 3.5L
With regards to the bearing torques the Skoda fabia 1.2 three cylinder engine is the same. Mine was burning oil at a rate of 1 litre per 100 km so needed an overhaul. Found a company in Germany called Wagner motoren who do engine reconditioning and bought a short motor from them which is perfect. It cost 1000 euros but it's either pay your money or scrap the car.
No surprise with the Lupo/Arosa as discontinued by VW in favour of the UP,Mii and skoda Citigo, also capitalise on replacement engine sales if they still have supporting parts for discontinued models.
I keep getting asked what should I do to a 999cc Mini Cooper S short stroke engine to do 9500rpm. I say first of all ~ super special strong valve springs. 🙂
Hiya bud do you build many Rover V8's then iv been thinking about getting an engine built or building one up, it would be for off road use and I'm not tied with cc but would like to free up as much of the low hanging fruit in power and torque if that makes sense
Hi Tony, They had to have the bottom pulley removed to change the engine side casing .. the pulley bolt requires a Torque Multiplyer to get a high enough torque to remove and re install the pulley bolt.. no machine work was done on the main or big end bearings .. I'd sudjest contacting the engine shop they used and see what they do with the Ford engine .. As Lee said its becoming a Throw away society ..:( :( Andy
Maybe they heat the crankshaft to X degrees then torque the mains up until the shaft locks. Once cooled to the normal operating temperature range, it's free-running ? Not a clue, just chucking an idea in the hat.
It was my understanding that full aluminium alloy engines cannot be properly reconditioned due to the way stresses build up in them, they warp when pulling apart and are never straight again. Having said that, with all of the components attached to a modern engine and how tightly everything is packaged I wouldn't fancy even attempting it. On a positive note VAG engines are apparently very reasonably priced. No doubt why if buying a new one you should get the extended warranty and get rid of the vehicle before it is out of warranty. I would never buy another.
VW Polo Shop manual says "The crankshaft must not be removed. Just loosening the main bearing caps will cause deformation of the cylinder block bearing pedestals. This deformation will cause a reduction of the bearing clearance. Even if the bearing shells are not renewed bearing damage could occur due to a different bearing clearance. If the bearing cap bolts are loosened, the cylinder block must be replaced complete with the crankshaft. Measuring the main bearing clearance is not possible with normal workshop equipment." Sounds like there's some kind of heat treatment in assembly to properly preload the bearing shells?
Fully understand how bad these newer version engines are sadly had to deal with many of them and all there man made issues. All this long periods of no oil changes is most of the issue but by time I get to see the job it’s to late ⏰ the engines goosed scrap heard and seen loads of these eco boost engine going back to Ford to be replaced under warranty. The other issue is landrover with Ford engines in them are warranted by landrover but the same engines in Fords vehicles are not being warranted
Is it because there an ali block, sr20 are the same your suppose to use a torque plate and possibly have the caps bolted up when your maching as the ali deforms, far from an expert but from what I’ve read. It is a job I have for you I’ve sleeves to go into a sr20 but no torque plate as yet I’m keeping my eyes pealed for an old head in the hope it could be made into one what’s your take on this lee.
Any block alloy, cast should have a torque plate and caps torqued to spec when any boring, honing or line boring mains is carried out. It ensures the block is under the torsion and distortion it will see when finally assembled.
@@chrisclarke6344 wasn’t aware it was the case for steel blocks but good to know. What’s your thoughts on using an old head with the chambers bored out as a torque plate?
@@Stephenc4877 cant see an issue with that we just made up 2" thick steel plates. Its surprising the amount a cast block will distort under load. When we made race motors we preferred blocks that were a few years old as the heat cycles had released a lot of the stresses in the blocks. I think it was bmw in the 70s who would make their factory race engines from road blocks that had done at least 100000 km.
Our 'traveller' friends been visiting again? But remember, 2999 times out of three litres, it isn't them, or should I say 2906cc, or something. WOW, AH 3000. Google YT Mark Schmidt one from Netherlands driving at, umm... not Spa, some other racetrack in Netherlands/Belgium. Over stroked and bored to almost 4 litres, with a rare aluminium BMC special tuning twelve port head, with I think modern petrol injection, plus out and out race cam. He had to start at the back of the grid because it wasn't strictly a classic. Zanvoort, that was it, at Zanvoort! VROOM what a noise. 😎
Ford say the block must be replaced zetecse engine throwaway engine I recently did some work on a 2019 corsa had the sump off due to damage and when I looked at the rods u couldn't even see a join in the cap and rod the bolts were they obviously but no visible sign of a join between rod and cap
Those rods have the cal split from the rod by cracking it of which creates a perfect mating face. Drawback when stripping and rebuilding is that the least bit of damage to a face or bit of grit will not allow a perfect seat and scraps the rod.
@@miceinoz1181 there are ways around this, virtual box allows something like windows 7 to run as a VM on a windows 10 host. Even Microsoft themselves offer compatibility mode for older apps to work in a win10 / win11 OS. But if not/never connected to the internet at all then not required
I hope they still keep the traditional drop kicking the parcel over neighbours fence and handing you the "sorry we missed you" card whilst chatting to the driver. 🤔
@@l33pul I believe the new add campaign is going to be on the lines of " we lose EVRI parcel, we damage EVRI parcel and we piss off EVRI ONE" can see this being a winner 🏆
Forgot to say, Marc tricked his AH overdrive gearbox switch to give him eight gears, worked by a foot switch that originally used to dip the headlights down the footwell next to the clutch pedal. 🙂
Hi Lee... I enjoy your channel even though I haven't done any spannering since I used to play with a modsports 1275 MG Midget. Just a quick question. Is there any advantage to heating Carlos's cylinder head to fit the valve seats, rather than shrinking them in liquid nitrogen? Best wishes in advance for your soon to be 20k subs!
@@LUZ-zv6pq I often fit seats and it states on the package to fit at room temperature .I think this is so you can gauge the interference is correct when you knock them in
It says "bearing clearance can not be measured by normal methods" I'd say they are referring to the "plastigage" method of tightening the cap and bearing down onto the crank and then disassembling and looking at the width of the plastigage. A method I don't like. Tightening or releasing the cap bolts on this engine may distort the bearing bores out of round in some way. You may need to put the bearings in, tighten the caps down (minus the crank) and just measure the bearing bores with a telescopic gauge in multiple positions in each bore, then measure the crank with a vernier micrometer and see what the clearance is and see if it is appropriate for this engine. Much more work, but that's how it goes.
yeah! modern engines are definately becoming non-serviceable. Cassette cam sprockets/timing chains, Cam shaft lobes pressed together within the cam carrier...etc.
At 4.35 in the video there is a brief shot of a 6 pot block of a strange configuration.. At my age I thought I had seen most block configs but never one like that. What is it please ?
The 1.9L escorts would run forever. A lot of people laughed at my love of escorts, but no matter what went wrong I could always fix them and never had problems finding parts.
MGB V8 , I drew up and designed the gearbox for Ken Costello MGB V8, conning crook never got paid for that. He touted that gear box all over the show even the middle east so I believe,as said I never saw a brass farthing for all the work I did despite all the promises, he was a crook in my book. That was all on the recommendation of John Robson , of Clegland Engineering another crook.
I did quite a few of those VW engines when they were more current. Can't remember the torque settings I used but I basically just guessed. At least 3 of them are still going strong as I still see the owners in the pub. The 2.0 Ecoblue Transits were the same when they came out, again I just guessed and not had any back so can't have been far off.
It sucks that you are waiting so long for parts! That’s just par for the course over here lately 🙄🙄🙄🙄! Anyway the suppliers my boss uses he has used forever, so if something doesn’t show, they will normally just send another set, especially when it’s a normally stocked item to them! Then they will deal with the shipping company, if it does show up, most times we keep them & they just bill us, or if it’s something we don’t normally use, we send it right back! But most suppliers just don’t give a shit anymore 🙄🙄🙄🙄! But smart ones know, the more work we get out, the more junk we order 😂😂😂😂! Duh 🙄! But that’s common sense, most don’t know what that is🙄🙄🙄🙄! Also I have heard of that stuff going on in top tier Motorsport! They machine there blocks with hot coolant going through them! So when the engine is put together, it will not turn over until they run the coolant & oil heaters on them, to get them up to temperature! I’m sure that’s not what’s actually happening with factory engines, but if you have to shitcan the parts anyway, maybe it’s worth getting one just to see if you use aftermarket hardware & just machine it like normal to see if it can work? Even just take measurements of the block & see exactly how much they move upon removing fasteners? I would definitely use a electronic torque wrench, than you would see exactly how much they were torqued to! Anyway I would check prices on a new shortblock? Maybe they are cheap enough, where it’s not worth it to try to repair 🙄🙄🙄🙄? I doubt it though! Video of track day was awesome 😎! Especially since it’s just a 4 cylinder 🤪🤪🤪🤪! JK! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
It's funny that governments want you to be green but allow this sort of shit to go on. It makes a complete mockery of the carbon footprint and environmental impacts.
These modern engines are trash! You probably can rebuild them but there are no parts because the manufacturer wants you to purchase a new long block or a new car! Modern dealer service departments are in a continuous conflict internally…they have a whole lot of brand new cars so they don’t want to fix a 3-5 YO car..they want you to buy a new one!!! Cheers from New Zealand.
With respect to lost delivery. You are in the clear, the contract is between the sender and the courier, so on non receipt of item the courier is liable to the sender and its up to the sender to replace the missing goods and the courier to reimburse the sender
The whole engine is clamped together in a press and all the bolts and nuts run up and then the press is released to preload the bolts - you can't do it one by one because the blocks are so light the whole thing distorts. Even to release it you need to reclamp the whole thing together and then take the nuts and bolts out while the tension is off, then unclamp.
I. Think 🤔 these eco boost engines are just a grow away item now it’s absolutely crazy that you cannot rebuild them as I don’t think you can buy any internal parts and there’s no torque settings available to do anything to them. It’s a throw away society even with engines now how barmy is that now
if so would it be possible to hack your way around by creeping up to the torque 5ft.lb at a time for each bolt ? in the end it is the fasteners holding the lump together is it not ...
@@n1352-m1i Unlikely else the robot putting the engine together would do it that way. If you have pulled one apart it might be worth a try, but I don't think anyone would recommend it, and be prepared to scrap the car or get a different engine.
@@phillipmalkin1169 Most engines seem to be that way now. That's why it's important to buy from a reputable manufacturer and make sure you look after it and service it properly.
The flip side of course is that an engine should last well over 100k, and be generally much better than an older engine.
Unfortunately you don't get much of a voice as to the way the car industry progresses
@@JimboXX78 I suppose you mean 100kmiles ... my wifes '99 Citroen (V6 ES9) has covered about twice that, and when the gearbox failed (ZF 4HP20 - long story...) ~20k ago I coined that this "old" engine could still go on and decided to fix the gearbox. so far, so good... not all manufacturers invest in their customers' future, some may actually make mistakes on maintenance options detrimental to their customers interests.
Had a similar situation on an old Volvo B30 engine, turned out that the Haynes manual torque values had been wrong, turns out they had put the Nm value in place of the lb-ft value and converted that number to Nm. Cost me a brand new set of big end bearings.
Lesson learned was to try and get my hands on the factory service manual rather than trust aftermarket documentation.
There's a reason why they're sometimes referred to as the Book of Lies.
It will be great to see a special on the mg rover v8 rebuild and restore. Can you do this?
I had a delivery due early last week.
2 notifications over 4 days stating "delivery failed due to business closed", WHAT! we're open!
Rang supplier to do something from their end, as simply can't communicate to courier at all.
Thankfully, 3rd time lucky, but, courier dumped package & ran.
Obviously ramifications are on going, they may lose contract from supplier.
Although not a mechanic I am hooked on your videos. I was concerned for a while as I thought that the parts had gone missing from your workshop.
Ilways kept a small freezer in my shop & kept valve seats , guides & bearings in it. I also had an old commercial oven just big enough to fit an XK head !🏴
Built plenty of Healey 3000 & 100-6's plus a lot of other types of BLMC cars back in the 60's and 70's. It was tough to get good parts back then. There was a lot of rebuilt and other crap parts sold back then. Our shop had plenty of disagreements with parts stores. We were in Arkansas, USA so you see the problem.
Ford / yamaha engine Zetec-S had the same. The block is torqued in the factory with a spesial jig, it runs all the bolts at the same time to specified torque keeping the flimsy block in even tension. It’s sad really, to waste the engine like that. You could make a girdle supporting the block from pan bolts and to head face and then open slowly in sequence.
Its not that its to do with the casting crystal size of the metals in jte block and how they spits tje rods and caps
@@eddsummat2191 Nothing to do with rods, you can get rod bearings and pistons.
MGB new unitary bodyshell, not chassis, from British Heritage bodyshells. Quite cheap when you think about it. 🙂
If it’s dpd call them in Exeter they are actually really helpful 👍👍
There are torque settings for those engines. Remember doing those lupo engines ages ago, we contacted a local independent vw they found the settings on there dealer info.
I’d be very interested to know the answer with these tightening torques……..
The VW W12 engine has the same problem and from what I remember,you had to buy a new short block assembly as VW refuse to sell bearing and ring sets.
I have access to ElsaWin the VAG system the garages use and it doesn't say anything about not being able to dismantle and reassemble parts for the 37Kw 50bhp 3 cylinder engine. Looking at the AHT engine code the main bearing cap torque is 75Nm . They don't appear to be a TTY bolt as normally I would expect a torque pre load and then angular offset.
Studs or bolts cutting their own threads which distort when tightened? So removing the studs or bolts damages the threads which essentially wrecks the engine? Just guessing...
I would recommend machining off the scroll at the rear of the crank and fitting the two piece silicon rubber seal on the BMC C type engine. Also take extra care with cleaning.the oil gallery & balance the crank as fine as possible.
It’s ironic that you got the v8 MG/Rover engine from the US, as it is actually a small block Buick engine built under license by Rover! !
Amazing engineering, a pleasure to watch!
Some duratec and hondas are the same, any alloy block the best thing to do is torque it up with the crankshaft in according to the size if the bolt size, if it doesn't turn freely have it line-bored...jobs a good 'un 👍 done loads of the 2 lt mazda mx5 for the mx5 championship in the past...
Great interesting watch 👍👍👍
We are at the stage where you need to post a tracking device to your supplier to put in your valuable shipment.
I'm sure they would manage to lose that as well. 🤣
Similar to the 1L eco boost engine, when you have an issue with the engine, you go to ford and buy a new one, surprisingly cheap now
Yes they were rubbish to start with hence why there cheap if it’s under warranty. I now understand Ford are now changing out of warranty eco boost engines as they new the engines were crap 💩 from day one ☝️And wouldn’t last that long
Vw used tension bolts which ran from the main bearing though the block and became the head studs. They where only loctite in so they are done so they are slightly tapered to prevent them from pulling up when the head is torqued but can be moved if they main caps are removed.
Bit like the old Rover long bolt engine layer cake engine all held together by massive long bolts a bit daunting on doing your first one understanding how it all works. But these new engines are just a throw away jobby you cannot get parts and there’s no torque setting available so just sadly a disposable thing now and I believe Ford are warranting all eco boost engine replacements even when out of warranty due to being a failure of an engine design issues lot of rods let go through the blocks
Had a good Rover V8 in my 83 Land Rover Pickup and a POS in my 92 Disco. The PU camshaft was good. The Disco, 2 camshafts flat. The Sagem ignition is horrible. The two Strombergs..need a lot of maintenance.
Check in your back garden as Couriers often just throw things over the back gate 🙂
Another great video. Im interested to know the reason the manufacturers are doing this with modern engines.
How do you heat the cylinder heads?
@@Mad-Coo we used to stick them in the parts washer for 20 mins nice and hot then!
@@Mad-Coo 👍
@@Mad-Coo wouldn't the risk of melting the aluminium be high?
I've seen heads heated in a tank of water which is then heated to the correct temp for replacing valve stems etc..
I heard that the blocks are stressed at the factory during a quicker manufacturing process and by taking off the main caps it relaxes the block out of shape , sounds possible but would like to know why ?
If i remember correctly short motors from ford are dirt cheap anyway but in the past when I've come across this I've got torque settings from the bearing supplier. The chap whos crank is locking solid I'd have a guess he's either got a cap on the wrong way round or the bearing surfaces (particularly the backs) aren't as clean as they could be
Without bearing clearance you have no oil pressure.
Knife the crank & loose a few more grams.
Kit car nice 👌.
Busy shop is a happy shop.
Besides the block on the machine 😞. 1000 pounds is a lot of $.
Look up who signed for them and see if they are at a different place.
On a another you tuber had his parts show up at a drs. Office.
Freeze the inserts and heat the head up they should drop in place.
Be safe team.
What if the engine had a plate on top & the head bolts were tq. To speck then the block will flex to normal position for the crank to spun free.
Just a thought.
And sometimes people don't know, like the time I had a 'disagreement' with a ARP rep. I questioned him on torque values for ARP fasteners on a Rover V8 block. I recall 135ftlbs for the head was his recommendation, I told him it was an aluminium engine, this worried him not.
No idea if they have since revised their data but that was probably fifteen years ago.
135ft/lbs is definitely too much for a aluminium block. That would pull the threads straight out of the aluminum.
You have to beware of some of these reps, they likely have no training in engineering and are just glorified sales people that were flipping burgers at McDonald's two weeks ago.
Ah RD350LC had & blowen up a few back in the day 😀 64mm stock bore size, rebore over size pistons come in .25 .50 .75 & 1mm.
I wonder if you torque the cyl head to spec, then torque the center main to spec and work your way out to the ends the same way. If the block is so flimsy the mains distort the block so badly, is the engine worth doing anything with?
While these engines are considered a throw away item why not to consider just remowing a crank(which is steel and does not deform if not force to do so) and putting big and caps back and torque them down lets say to any similar angines torque values.. measuring the deformation and see if its possible just to line bore them. so whole block acts as any regular one without any ''one time use item'' magic. of course not to forget to use torque plates all around and maybe see if these has significant effect on the big end caps bore, which could mean that its a one time use block by design if significant deformations are found. and maybe there be found special order for bolting and torqueing all the components to assemble long block. Just a thought..
Great videos keep them coming
seeing that block outside with the pressure washer reminded me of my experience.
seven years ago i had to take the BMC C engine out of my 1955 Wolseley 6/90 due to weeping core plugs, it had been in the car since father in law worked on it in the late 1970's, when i removed the rear and side back 3 core plugs there was a high tide mark of sediment, the back 2 -1/2 cylinders had NO water reaching them, as i was doing a budget rebuild i pressure washed and used wire to remove all the crud, it took 4+ hours over a few days but it worked.
after seeing the engine on here the other day i pulled the dizzy wire on mine, ran the engine till oil pressure came up, reconnected the dizzy and it started right up, 1st time in 2 years, i'm motivated to pull the engine out and get the gearbox sorted now that i have the parts needed from some parts cars.
@Kris Nicholsonthe few mice we see are usually caught by the cats, and the ones down near my 3 sheds (garages) have to contend with eastern brown snakes, there is a LOT of food for mice (fortunately) aside from eating my cars.
i've seen a few browns around my sheds, but luckily none seen in the sheds, they are the second most deadly snake on the planet
@Kris Nicholson the car has had a mechanical rebuild 5-7 years ago, engine, gearbox, differential and all wheel bearings & brakes.
i got it all together and found i couldn't get all gears, i got cross shafts from one parts cars and better bronze gear selectors from the other, life has thrown a few nasty surprises since then, hence the delay.
@Kris Nicholson until i moved to country Victoria 20 years ago i had never seen a snake (except at the zoo), but yes red backs were common in sheds and gardens, you get used to wearing gloves.
after the country move the closest i got to an eastern brown was opening one of the sheds and noticed movement less than 2 foot away from my boot, it was a 5 foot brown sunning itself in the morning sun, i backed away while telling it how beautiful it was, when i came back with a long handled rake it scarpered before i got within a yard from it.
i keep the grass alongside that shed real short since then, that said they are a daytime hunter so i can take the dogs for a night patrol of the perimeter of my 5 acres without fear of the browns being about, we also have tiger snakes (night hunters) in the region but only one has been reported in the area in 20 years i've been here.
all that said i think people who enter the rivers up north or into the ocean are bloody morons, if you get into a shark or crocodiles lunchbox you are on the bloody menu.
when you KNOW what might be around you behave accordingly, just like driving a car really, you are constantly watching and avoiding the deadly cretins that shouldn't be on the road.
cheers mate nice chatting with you.
I have a vw passat 2015 2l diesel 180,000 miles still going well. You say about a refreshing what would recommend and what price would I be looking at.
Looking forward to watching the MG V8 rebuild.
Is it same as Rover V8? 🤔
@@tractorhead971 yup
@@tractorhead971 It is, I was just Googling on that, but there might be different specs as per tune and set-up. Some on-line sites don't mention the US derivation, if it's the 3.5L alumin(i)um block, which is unfortunate, as when produced, it was the most widely used lightweight V8 in the world: (It weighed less than equivalent UK iron fours)
[There are enough parts out there that the U.K. hot-rodding set treats it something like Americans treat the small-block Chevy: lots of mix-and-match parts interchangeability, with basic parts cheap and plentiful enough to keep 'em running forever. Or at least a lot longer than GM would have let it go.]
- Buick 215-cu in. V-8/Rover 3.5L
American ex-pat power becomes Blighty's favorite V-8
By Jeff Koch from April 2011 issue of Hemmings Sports and Exotics
This bodes very well if the owner wants to take the car Stateside. Service on a lot of European classics is tough enough in the UK, even tougher in North Am.
I can see why Lee is salivating to work on it.
Can't wait to see the rebuild of the 3.5L v8 I rebuilt a 4.6L v8 last year putting 4.0L v8 pistons in to increase compression and put a H180 Kent camshaft in so it's a better tow vehicle now
Will be nice to see what you do to the 3.5L
With regards to the bearing torques the Skoda fabia 1.2 three cylinder engine is the same.
Mine was burning oil at a rate of 1 litre per 100 km so needed an overhaul.
Found a company in Germany called Wagner motoren who do engine reconditioning and bought a short motor from them which is perfect.
It cost 1000 euros but it's either pay your money or scrap the car.
Seems like a theme - same on an old Toyota Yaris 3 potter we had. Think the engine design was Dacia but might be wrong on that.
Hi lee congratulations on reaching 19,900 subscribers and you will soon be at 20,000 subscribers and well done for all your continued hard work
No surprise with the Lupo/Arosa as discontinued by VW in favour of the UP,Mii and skoda Citigo, also capitalise on replacement engine sales if they still have supporting parts for discontinued models.
Would u be able to use ARP BOLTS as they have have their own spec for tightenting ?
Align boring of the main journals in the block was something I did a lot of.
I keep getting asked what should I do to a 999cc Mini Cooper S short stroke engine to do 9500rpm. I say first of all ~ super special strong valve springs. 🙂
Mgb V8 good old Buick 215 (rover v 8) introduced in the states 1961 how high tech were we
Hiya bud do you build many Rover V8's then iv been thinking about getting an engine built or building one up, it would be for off road use and I'm not tied with cc but would like to free up as much of the low hanging fruit in power and torque if that makes sense
Salvage rebuilds Uk had a small engine to be reworked. It needed special tools and such. They may be able to help.
Hi Tony, They had to have the bottom pulley removed to change the engine side casing .. the pulley bolt requires a Torque Multiplyer to get a high enough torque to remove and re install the pulley bolt.. no machine work was done on the main or big end bearings .. I'd sudjest contacting the engine shop they used and see what they do with the Ford engine .. As Lee said its becoming a Throw away society ..:( :( Andy
@@andymacpherson7424 phoenix motor engineering Ltd I believe the company is Andy.
Maybe they heat the crankshaft to X degrees then torque the mains up until the shaft locks.
Once cooled to the normal operating temperature range, it's free-running ?
Not a clue, just chucking an idea in the hat.
I have a question: what temperature ( Centigrade or Fahrenheit) do you heat a head for inserting a valve seat??
also, do you cool off the seats prior to insertion ?
It was my understanding that full aluminium alloy engines cannot be properly reconditioned due to the way stresses build up in them, they warp when pulling apart and are never straight again.
Having said that, with all of the components attached to a modern engine and how tightly everything is packaged I wouldn't fancy even attempting it.
On a positive note VAG engines are apparently very reasonably priced. No doubt why if buying a new one you should get the extended warranty and get rid of the vehicle before it is out of warranty. I would never buy another.
VW Polo Shop manual says "The crankshaft must not be removed. Just loosening the main bearing caps will cause deformation of the cylinder block bearing pedestals. This deformation will cause a reduction of the bearing clearance. Even if the bearing shells are not renewed bearing damage could occur due to a different bearing clearance.
If the bearing cap bolts are loosened, the cylinder block must be replaced complete with the crankshaft.
Measuring the main bearing clearance is not possible with normal workshop equipment."
Sounds like there's some kind of heat treatment in assembly to properly preload the bearing shells?
Bolt the block to a surface, and line bore the main bearings, a block can’t deform that much as long as it’s bolted down when the caps are removed
I’m thinking as Lee said bolt a thick steel block plate to the top then unbolt the crank ?
Very informative and interesting channel. Glad I subscribed.
When they make them the tolerances are so tight that when it’s loosened it will warp to the point that it becomes scrap
Sad that some of the newer engine’s can’t be rebuilt :
You just torque the block in 15 or so stages. The bolts are all done up at the same time in the factory, have to replicate that by using many stages.
Or get 10 friends with a torque wrench each and all pull together :)
Regarding the ford zetec SE engine, I'd give ford specialist Burton Power or Puma Speed a call.
Fully understand how bad these newer version engines are sadly had to deal with many of them and all there man made issues. All this long periods of no oil changes is most of the issue but by time I get to see the job it’s to late ⏰ the engines goosed scrap heard and seen loads of these eco boost engine going back to Ford to be replaced under warranty. The other issue is landrover with Ford engines in them are warranted by landrover but the same engines in Fords vehicles are not being warranted
Is it because there an ali block, sr20 are the same your suppose to use a torque plate and possibly have the caps bolted up when your maching as the ali deforms, far from an expert but from what I’ve read. It is a job I have for you I’ve sleeves to go into a sr20 but no torque plate as yet I’m keeping my eyes pealed for an old head in the hope it could be made into one what’s your take on this lee.
Any block alloy, cast should have a torque plate and caps torqued to spec when any boring, honing or line boring mains is carried out. It ensures the block is under the torsion and distortion it will see when finally assembled.
@@chrisclarke6344 wasn’t aware it was the case for steel blocks but good to know. What’s your thoughts on using an old head with the chambers bored out as a torque plate?
@@Stephenc4877 cant see an issue with that we just made up 2" thick steel plates. Its surprising the amount a cast block will distort under load. When we made race motors we preferred blocks that were a few years old as the heat cycles had released a lot of the stresses in the blocks. I think it was bmw in the 70s who would make their factory race engines from road blocks that had done at least 100000 km.
Our 'traveller' friends been visiting again?
But remember, 2999 times out of three litres, it isn't them, or should I say 2906cc, or something. WOW, AH 3000. Google YT Mark Schmidt one from Netherlands driving at, umm... not Spa, some other racetrack in Netherlands/Belgium. Over stroked and bored to almost 4 litres, with a rare aluminium BMC special tuning twelve port head, with I think modern petrol injection, plus out and out race cam. He had to start at the back of the grid because it wasn't strictly a classic. Zanvoort, that was it, at Zanvoort! VROOM what a noise. 😎
I guess if you have all inline engines it would be simpler to set up your work as aposed to a " v" configuration.
The big end journals are fked, but the mains don't look too bad. Cross drill the big ends. 😉
That AH crank has more wrinkles on it than me.... 😁😁😁
MGB V8 - put a TVR derived Buick Rover same engine in. 😎
Those Lupo engines and the like are designed to hit 100/150k then be scrapped, engineered lifespan. Welcome to the consumable age.
Ford say the block must be replaced zetecse engine throwaway engine I recently did some work on a 2019 corsa had the sump off due to damage and when I looked at the rods u couldn't even see a join in the cap and rod the bolts were they obviously but no visible sign of a join between rod and cap
Those rods have the cal split from the rod by cracking it of which creates a perfect mating face. Drawback when stripping and rebuilding is that the least bit of damage to a face or bit of grit will not allow a perfect seat and scraps the rod.
And those fracture split rods cannot be resized, only replaced.
Looks like you need more staff at your unit.
My thoughts with all that extra new work coming in.
Please update your PC’s to a modern supported OS before you get ‘royally rogered’ by a hacker.
Yeah, I noticed that. Vista is a not good.
@@MrMark00024 Thats windows 7
Possibly not connected to the internet, just used for data.
My alldata does not run on windows 10. Needs earlier version of windoze. His screenshot was from Alldata.
@@miceinoz1181 there are ways around this, virtual box allows something like windows 7 to run as a VM on a windows 10 host. Even Microsoft themselves offer compatibility mode for older apps to work in a win10 / win11 OS. But if not/never connected to the internet at all then not required
Were they stolen?
Renault 1400GT turbos
8 valved pocket rolling skates
Carlos Portuguese.
🙂
What happened to the new laws enforcing manufacturing to make everything under 10 years old repairable ???
Like your vids, not a fan of clickbait titles though. GONE MISSING means not arrived in the post yet.
it's a disposable world. crazy.
I like those words, supposedly, apparently, should do 😂
If it was Hermes they have changed their name due to bad press and reputation to EVRI, I believe that's because they lose EVRI parcel 👍
I hope they still keep the traditional drop kicking the parcel over neighbours fence and handing you the "sorry we missed you" card whilst chatting to the driver. 🤔
@@l33pul I believe the new add campaign is going to be on the lines of " we lose EVRI parcel, we damage EVRI parcel and we piss off EVRI ONE" can see this being a winner 🏆
Forgot to say, Marc tricked his AH overdrive gearbox switch to give him eight gears, worked by a foot switch that originally used to dip the headlights down the footwell next to the clutch pedal. 🙂
This guy sounds just like saving salvage.
Hi Lee...
I enjoy your channel even though I haven't done any spannering since I used to play with a modsports 1275 MG Midget.
Just a quick question. Is there any advantage to heating Carlos's cylinder head to fit the valve seats, rather than shrinking them in liquid nitrogen?
Best wishes in advance for your soon to be 20k subs!
We used to do both at my work place 😀
I imagine the head will expand more than the seats would shrink. In no way is that given as fact 😂
Good point.
@@LUZ-zv6pq I often fit seats and it states on the package to fit at room temperature .I think this is so you can gauge the interference is correct when you knock them in
Always used to put head in parts washer to warm it up for 20mins then knock them in never had one fall out.
It says "bearing clearance can not be measured by normal methods"
I'd say they are referring to the "plastigage" method of tightening the cap and bearing down onto the crank and then disassembling and looking at the width of the plastigage. A method I don't like.
Tightening or releasing the cap bolts on this engine may distort the bearing bores out of round in some way.
You may need to put the bearings in, tighten the caps down (minus the crank) and just measure the bearing bores with a telescopic gauge in multiple positions in each bore, then measure the crank with a vernier micrometer and see what the clearance is and see if it is appropriate for this engine.
Much more work, but that's how it goes.
yeah! modern engines are definately becoming non-serviceable. Cassette cam sprockets/timing chains, Cam shaft lobes pressed together within the cam carrier...etc.
Classic, planned obsolescence.
At 4.35 in the video there is a brief shot of a 6 pot block of a strange configuration.. At my age I thought I had seen most block configs but never one like that.
What is it please ?
That’s a VW golf vr6 block, narrow v configuration single cylinder head, lovely engine
Cheers :-) Now gotta go look at the whole set up to feed my curiosity :-)
God I hate modern engines, such a throw away attitude from the factories now. I’ll stick with my old Pinto in my mk2 Escort 😃
The 1.9L escorts would run forever. A lot of people laughed at my love of escorts, but no matter what went wrong I could always fix them and never had problems finding parts.
I had 20 years of that sort of thing, that's why I'm not a peoples person anymore.
MGB V8 , I drew up and designed the gearbox for Ken Costello MGB V8, conning crook never got paid for that. He touted that gear box all over the show even the middle east so I believe,as said I never saw a brass farthing for all the work I did despite all the promises, he was a crook in my book. That was all on the recommendation of John Robson , of Clegland Engineering another crook.
Who puts engine parts on a nasty plywood box it's going to end in tears when that crank or a piston falls off!
I wondered when... 🤓
I did quite a few of those VW engines when they were more current. Can't remember the torque settings I used but I basically just guessed. At least 3 of them are still going strong as I still see the owners in the pub. The 2.0 Ecoblue Transits were the same when they came out, again I just guessed and not had any back so can't have been far off.
@@MattyEngland not really, you can tell when bolts are about right
maybe there is no removable bearing like in alot of cylinder heads
Lupo...throw away engine??....normal : Lupo is a throw away car...
This is a thing ford did in the past summat to do with hiw they spit the caps from the block and the rods
For context for tje torque problems
throwaway as design, its a disgrace
The Bic lighter of cars if you can't service the engine.
Evri body hates hermes.
It sucks that you are waiting so long for parts! That’s just par for the course over here lately 🙄🙄🙄🙄! Anyway the suppliers my boss uses he has used forever, so if something doesn’t show, they will normally just send another set, especially when it’s a normally stocked item to them! Then they will deal with the shipping company, if it does show up, most times we keep them & they just bill us, or if it’s something we don’t normally use, we send it right back! But most suppliers just don’t give a shit anymore 🙄🙄🙄🙄! But smart ones know, the more work we get out, the more junk we order 😂😂😂😂! Duh 🙄! But that’s common sense, most don’t know what that is🙄🙄🙄🙄! Also I have heard of that stuff going on in top tier Motorsport! They machine there blocks with hot coolant going through them! So when the engine is put together, it will not turn over until they run the coolant & oil heaters on them, to get them up to temperature! I’m sure that’s not what’s actually happening with factory engines, but if you have to shitcan the parts anyway, maybe it’s worth getting one just to see if you use aftermarket hardware & just machine it like normal to see if it can work? Even just take measurements of the block & see exactly how much they move upon removing fasteners? I would definitely use a electronic torque wrench, than you would see exactly how much they were torqued to! Anyway I would check prices on a new shortblock? Maybe they are cheap enough, where it’s not worth it to try to repair 🙄🙄🙄🙄? I doubt it though! Video of track day was awesome 😎! Especially since it’s just a 4 cylinder 🤪🤪🤪🤪! JK! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I really think this type of title and all the warrenty vids must affect any future business
Background noise horrific to listen to through bluetooth speakers, gave up after only a few minutes
Starting to think this is all made up, no shop could make this many mistakes and still be a viable business.
Sorry, what did I miss? What mistakes are you talking about?
@@miceinoz1181 lmao, his whole channel is based on mistakes.
It's funny that governments want you to be green but allow this sort of shit to go on. It makes a complete mockery of the carbon footprint and environmental impacts.
Crankshaft
These modern engines are trash! You probably can rebuild them but there are no parts because the manufacturer wants you to purchase a new long block or a new car!
Modern dealer service departments are in a continuous conflict internally…they have a whole lot of brand new cars so they don’t want to fix a 3-5 YO car..they want you to buy a new one!!!
Cheers from New Zealand.
Click bait
Agreed - and becoming more frequent.