George, I have worked in public education for over 40 years,from grade school through the university and vocational education, and you are the best teacher I have ever seen. Period. Thank you very much for the great job you do! Keep it up!
Another cleaning method for copper (especially scrubbers) is vinegar and salt - about a tablespoon of salt per cup of vinegar. It cleans the copper very fast, but there is an important follow-up that really finishes it off. after ten minutes in the salty vinegar, rinse and place the object into boiling water. You will notice the water takes on a yellowish murky look. Rinse the object, and it will stay bright. Especially good for copper pot scrubbers.
I like your last method with Citric Acid and Peroxide. Not harmful as the chemicals in CLR or Tarn-x. Takes a bit longer as you have to let it sit, but is just as effective or better. For small pieces, a little shake in the jar will do wonders. Thank you for all these informative videos George!!
I just mixed up H20, peroxide and citric acid to clean my column packing material. PERFECTO !! George is still the KING ! If you see happen to see this George, thanks again for all you have done 👍👍 I hope all is well in your world.
I did have a blue spirit at the end of a stripping run. Looks like it was a combo of hot vapor(i let the ice melt) and i also used extra yeast nutrient to speed up the ferment. I let my worm soak in vinegar before and after each use. No issues since. Thanks for all the help with my new hobby George.
Thank you for this video!!!! I appreciate your explanation as to where I went wrong too. As you had asked, “Did you rinse it out and then wash your parrot with warm soapy water and rinse again?”. Of course my answer was no. I had only rinsed it and put it into use. So for anyone else like me who didn’t listen to the video well, after using tarnx or any other cleaning agent, the hydrogen peroxide and citric acid works great, rinse off then clean with warm soapy water and of course RINSE AGAIN..... thank you George the guru of distillation.
Goerge, I have been watching your videos for many years . I nave no idea how it was possible I missed this one, Going to give the citric acid and peroxide a try. This also opened my eyes , I'm a hobby silver smith and a product call sparex is used to clean up an artical after soldering. Thank you so much for this very informative post.
George I just tried the vinegar salt and lime juice combo. it worked as good as the tarnX. I did not see you use this combo and thought I would share. it was really fast and a cold water rinse quickly after kept the copper from tarnishing again. Thanks for the great info I will have to try some of your suggestions!
I use household distilled vinegar... fill the pot to 30% of its volume with regular distilled vinegar and then dilute to total volume with distilled water. The important step is to bring the still to temp with NO water running through the condenser... allow the still to "Steam" all the way through and out the delivery tube for a good 15 minutes and then turn the water on to the condenser and allow about 1/3 of the vinegar solution to distill through... cool, and thoroughly rinse with clear water... Ready to go!
I'm fairly new to this so I ran basically all vinger n let it run thru whole system like I was making a normal run is that wrong I washed it w hot water afterwards Know the copper lines look all brand new after I do it lol
@@darkhunter5594 I see no problems at all with the manner that you employed for your cleaning... However, I would suggest that you allow the steam to run thru for a period first before turning on the cooling water to the condenser, as the steam will get into places to clean that the condensed liquid will not.
Excellent vid. Used Tarnex for copper pots.. Worke great. Shiny however why is there a grey discoloration in some areas.?. Do we do it again? Want to restore the copper color . Thanx
I just wanna say thanx for all your hints and tips !!! I’m only about 6 months taking “ hillbilly wine “ to the next level but have gone head long into trying all the different things such as distillation...... etc. You are extremely informative and you don’t sit there and say the same things over and over ...... and ...... it doesn’t take you all day to say what your trying to say !!! You have been subscribed and thanx again for the knowledge you’ve already shared !
Put the tarn-x back in the bottle by filtering through a coffee filter. We do the same thing with Ferric Chloride etching solution for printed circuit boards - lasts almost forever.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing so I'm fairly new to this the email n num is that still good? Just curious bc been watching alot of videos n imo u seem to be the leading the pack in knowledge just curious bc I know this is a 2 yr old video I'm trying to watch them all lol
I cut to the chase, set aside the copper my great aunt from the Urals taught me on, and went with Pyrex. Got an over the top 41" Graham in 24/40 (Ace Glass vintage, handmade, eBay) for my worm and Raschig rings in the bottom of my column. I can view every drop being made.
Just finished a good cleaning earlier today on my bigger still. Did a few repairs, so it had some flux on it. Figured the whole thing could use a good cleaning. Missed this video, but it pretty well followed my cleaning regimen.
I have a serious problem with copper soot scaling off and getting on my enamels while on the kiln. Surprising to see this video , I hope it can help me even though it seems to have nothing to do with enamels, and a lot in common as well I can only get the peroxide at 35%. Does it need to be 100% pure?
Mr George cool vid thank you much sir .? My family has always used Oxalic Acid approximately two fingers and a thumb pure quart to clean everything. There's a lot of stuff in CLR that We don't care for our equipment. As far as cleaning out the worm We like to use a small fountain pump to Circulate some Flitz brass/copper cleaner and hot water through it now an again. But I will try using some Tarn X thank you for the tip Sir..
Make the alcohol run into a coffee filter when it comes out of the condenser, I use a funnel to hold it, it captures pretty much all the Fusel oils at the same time
been a subscriber for while now and asked questions about making spirit and other related things. how about this, i have a tankless hot water heater, and have to do maintenance on it cleaning the burner, vent and such. well, there is a copper pipes with fins around it (like a car radiator), have used small wire brush, vacuum and compressed air but doesn't get all clean. started to think what solutions can i use to clean it, finally came to your channel, bingo, not just for making spirits but for other apppliance maintenance! i'll let ya know how it works. thanks George.
Pay Back time GEORGE, Hope you read this. The cleaner made from Water, Citric Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide is amazing. Tip for you. Ark Welders cable is a good resource for copper wire to make scrubbers from. Thick as your thumb and made up from hundreds and hundreds of fine wires of pure copper. Strip the outer and tease out. Form into what ever shape you want. Mine is 50 mm round by 500 mm long and in the top of a pot head still. Kind Regards from New Zealand.
All this stuff is basically acids, and any acid will work for cleaning off oxidation (but some are toxic and dangerous to handle). Acetic acid (vinegar) and citric acid (basically lemon juice) are good, safe biodegradable acids to use in reasonable solutions. Acetic acid vaporizes completely without residue in room temp, and citric acid is fantastic at dissolving mineral buildups from the water. That's why it gets used in so many bathroom cleaner products (that smell like citrus). Both can be found in bulk in pure form at a low cost (citric acid in power form). You don't need many percent acid-to-water solution to gently remove smaller layers of oxidation (on most metals) and mineral buildups (making them pretty safe to touch, although gloves are best). The concentration is mainly just a question of if you want to leave your parts in the cleaning bath for 12hrs or 1hr. Remember to rinse off fully though. Even if these two mentioned are not toxic - a low PH residual layer will make oxidation happen again faster than normal, so you don't want to leave it on there after the cleaning is done. Good stainless steel is hard to beat in terms of cleaning and maintenance IMO. If you want copper in the still then just use some copper packing - and cleaning those will be as easy as just having a big mason jar with the same type of cleaning acid solution. Dip - wait - and rinse. Reusable even. Good as new. Even though this may technically dissolve some metal too if you leave it for too long or with too strong acid - we are talking about micron-size layers, so even those thin fibers in copper mesh aren't going to wear out from this in your lifetime probably.
thanks for the refresher course: who wants class notes? CLR (for cleaning water deposits) tarn-x (for cleaning cooper) (500 ml water)+( hydrogenperoxid 50 ml)+( citric acid one once) white vinegar with water
Thank you sir! I have been trying to go through your video library. I think I should call you professor! Your shop is great I wish I had one just as nice. I hope to meet you someday. Regards, Lance
Straight up vinegar works great on copper packing, just place in a water glass or jar and cover with vinegar for about an hour. Cheapest! I'm spoiled with stainless steel everything else.
When I mix up a batch of Star San, I put some in an empty Easy Clean tub and dump my copper in it. Leave it for a few hours and in comes out bright and clean.
This is the first time I've heard somebody outside of the swimming pool industry talking about the difference between clean and sanitary. Residential pools aren't routinely inspected like public pools are and the inspectors of the public pools will even tell you they are not there to inspect the cleanliness of the pool (leaves, debris, ect), they are concerned with the sanitary condition of the pool (water chemically balanced).
I run 1 oz to a regular spray bottle size and just power wash it .I was cleaning my 6 gal copper still and to my amazement it just went bright copper not polished gold but tarnish be gone with just a few sprays no scrubbing
My wife is currently posting a heap of pots and pans over from Australia for you to sort out. Seriously The most important thing you said was clean things as you use them. its not rocket science just soap and water. Thank you for the common sense approach.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Ah well I just went out and bought 5l of 50% from my local pool shop guess Ill not be needing a top up for the rest of my life haha at least it was cheap
my issue is is that I make a lot of small test batches in a smaller still. my bit 20 gal I dont use that often. I clean it after a run but it sits for a while before I use it again. which method would be best to run through so clean while still from sitting? I can only gues that running clr through the still isnt a good idea.I run it through my coffee pot so not sure why it couldnt be but I never heard anyone talk about it
Another good way might be using white vinegar and table salt, boil it through system? I used to use it to flush house copper piping... And flush with warm water.
My first hazardous hobby is reloading pistol and rifle ammo. They make really cheap copper "coated" bullets too, they also tend to suck out loud! Always go with thick copper jackets or straight lead for bullets. No lead in distilling though, that should fall under common sense.
I got tired of stopping and changing the bit,blade or other attachment so I attached the ones most used and just bought the requisite number of tools. Saves me quite a bit of time when I am working.
I love all the advice . New and still learning . I’m just curious ... in order to keep copper looking shiny clean ... does not that “ Bar Keepers Friend “ work ??? Just asking .
I found a nifty and cheap way to clean my copper still and its parts. Simply spray them with StarSan. It does a pretty good job and works quickly. Try it
K.I.S.S. i have a all copper pot still, 50/50 water and vinegar clean the pot and lid then crank up the heat without cooling the condenser. get some nasty looking green stuff out of it.
When filling a thumper does it have to be a tails from a previous batch or can it be a blended fruit to fuse the flavor? Could you do a video on how to fuse flavors into a spirit??
If you think of a thumper as a gin basket, you can just add flavors. If you start a run alcohol will condensed into the thumper and then it will start running. My option is it does. It have to be tails, I have seen it work perfectly with just flavors!
Just looked up Tarn-x on the web. Apparently it has issues "This "Wipe & Rinse" product contains up to 7 percent thiourea, a chemical considered a carcinogen by the state of California. The company's technical information for workers says "prolonged or repeated exposure may cause reproductive and fetal effects."". Like George says, RINSE, RINSE, RINSE. Like everything that works, it needs to be used with due care. Ain't no such thing as a free lunch.
A vinegar cleaning run and a sacrificial alcohol run is the best, safest and easiest way to clean a still. I don't like using soaps and chemicals. Rinse the interior of the still after each run.
So if you're needing to submerge a 5 gallon pot still, you'd need.... 5 gallons of water, 64 oz of HP and 37 oz of citric acid. And a big bucket 😂 You are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you for the education 🙏
One word " Ketchup". It was used by any one in the woods because it sticky and it works. also use a piece of copper mesh as a scrubber pad. Dissimilar metals cause electrolysis.
For cleaning worms & other non scrub-able parts try the Cheap Walmart brand Denture cleaners, bust them up & add the bits into the worm add warm water -seems to do a good job stripping the crud & as its designed to be used on dentures its a lot less toxic than other cleaners, with a decent rinse it seems to clear up any aftertaste better than vinegar (to my nose at least )
Be careful about common chemicals especially when you are in a commercial environment because you may order some of them and won't be protected by local retail product concentrations. For instance, you can order hydrogen peroxide 40% and it will come in a bottle that looks exactly like the weak mixture at Walmart and will do some serious damage to your skin before you know what happened. I speak from experience cleaning copper. And wear those gloves and check the bottles.
The scotch Brite thing I was guilty of never noticed that before says coated u prob forgot more about this art then I will ever know I'm just a newbie lol
George, I have worked in public education for over 40 years,from grade school through the university and vocational education, and you are the best teacher I have ever seen. Period. Thank you very much for the great job you do! Keep it up!
Thanks so much for the compliment.
I’ve been watching him since I’ve gotten into this and I always think that he has some kind of background in teaching, George your a natural
Another cleaning method for copper (especially scrubbers) is vinegar and salt - about a tablespoon of salt per cup of vinegar. It cleans the copper very fast, but there is an important follow-up that really finishes it off. after ten minutes in the salty vinegar, rinse and place the object into boiling water. You will notice the water takes on a yellowish murky look. Rinse the object, and it will stay bright. Especially good for copper pot scrubbers.
I like your last method with Citric Acid and Peroxide. Not harmful as the chemicals in CLR or Tarn-x. Takes a bit longer as you have to let it sit, but is just as effective or better. For small pieces, a little shake in the jar will do wonders.
Thank you for all these informative videos George!!
I just mixed up H20, peroxide and citric acid to clean my column packing material. PERFECTO !! George is still the KING !
If you see happen to see this George, thanks again for all you have done 👍👍 I hope all is well in your world.
I did have a blue spirit at the end of a stripping run. Looks like it was a combo of hot vapor(i let the ice melt) and i also used extra yeast nutrient to speed up the ferment. I let my worm soak in vinegar before and after each use. No issues since. Thanks for all the help with my new hobby George.
Thank you for this video!!!! I appreciate your explanation as to where I went wrong too. As you had asked, “Did you rinse it out and then wash your parrot with warm soapy water and rinse again?”. Of course my answer was no. I had only rinsed it and put it into use. So for anyone else like me who didn’t listen to the video well, after using tarnx or any other cleaning agent, the hydrogen peroxide and citric acid works great, rinse off then clean with warm soapy water and of course RINSE AGAIN..... thank you George the guru of distillation.
Goerge, I have been watching your videos for many years . I nave no idea how it was possible I missed this one, Going to give the citric acid and peroxide a try. This also opened my eyes , I'm a hobby silver smith and a product call sparex is used to clean up an artical after soldering. Thank you so much for this very informative post.
George I just tried the vinegar salt and lime juice combo. it worked as good as the tarnX. I did not see you use this combo and thought I would share. it was really fast and a cold water rinse quickly after kept the copper from tarnishing again. Thanks for the great info I will have to try some of your suggestions!
At what ratios?
I use household distilled vinegar... fill the pot to 30% of its volume with regular distilled vinegar and then dilute to total volume with distilled water. The important step is to bring the still to temp with NO water running through the condenser... allow the still to "Steam" all the way through and out the delivery tube for a good 15 minutes and then turn the water on to the condenser and allow about 1/3 of the vinegar solution to distill through... cool, and thoroughly rinse with clear water... Ready to go!
I fill the column and condenser with pure vinegar and soak about 30 min.
I'm fairly new to this so I ran basically all vinger n let it run thru whole system like I was making a normal run is that wrong I washed it w hot water afterwards Know the copper lines look all brand new after I do it lol
@@darkhunter5594 I see no problems at all with the manner that you employed for your cleaning... However, I would suggest that you allow the steam to run thru for a period first before turning on the cooling water to the condenser, as the steam will get into places to clean that the condensed liquid will not.
I love your show. Thank you
Excellent vid. Used Tarnex for copper pots.. Worke great. Shiny however why is there a grey discoloration in some areas.?. Do we do it again? Want to restore the copper color . Thanx
I just wanna say thanx for all your hints and tips !!! I’m only about 6 months taking “ hillbilly wine “ to the next level but have gone head long into trying all the different things such as distillation...... etc. You are extremely informative and you don’t sit there and say the same things over and over ...... and ...... it doesn’t take you all day to say what your trying to say !!!
You have been subscribed and thanx again for the knowledge you’ve already shared !
Put the tarn-x back in the bottle by filtering through a coffee filter. We do the same thing with Ferric Chloride etching solution for printed circuit boards - lasts almost forever.
Absolutely
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing so I'm fairly new to this the email n num is that still good? Just curious bc been watching alot of videos n imo u seem to be the leading the pack in knowledge just curious bc I know this is a 2 yr old video I'm trying to watch them all lol
Incredible just lovely I enjoyed the video have a blessed day
I cut to the chase, set aside the copper my great aunt from the Urals taught me on, and went with Pyrex. Got an over the top 41" Graham in 24/40 (Ace Glass vintage, handmade, eBay) for my worm and Raschig rings in the bottom of my column. I can view every drop being made.
Thank you George!! You are great educator!!
Just finished a good cleaning earlier today on my bigger still. Did a few repairs, so it had some flux on it. Figured the whole thing could use a good cleaning. Missed this video, but it pretty well followed my cleaning regimen.
Greetings George! thanks for the channel and your hard work.
I use citric acid in hot water. works great nad is safe and economical
George. I used your 551formula the other day and the copper (after an overnight soak) came out looking absolutely NEW. Thank You Sir, You are Awesome.
Glad to hear that
I have a serious problem with copper soot scaling off and getting on my enamels while on the kiln. Surprising to see this video , I hope it can help me even though it seems to have nothing to do with enamels, and a lot in common as well
I can only get the peroxide at 35%. Does it need to be 100% pure?
Thanks, Mr. George you are a Rock Star!
Mr George cool vid thank you much sir .? My family has always used Oxalic Acid
approximately two fingers and a thumb pure quart to clean everything.
There's a lot of stuff in CLR that We don't care for our equipment. As far as cleaning
out the worm We like to use a small fountain pump to Circulate some Flitz brass/copper
cleaner and hot water through it now an again. But I will try using some Tarn X
thank you for the tip Sir..
Make the alcohol run into a coffee filter when it comes out of the condenser, I use a funnel to hold it, it captures pretty much all the Fusel oils at the same time
This is great information! Thanks George for sharing all your insights!
been a subscriber for while now and asked questions about making spirit and other related things. how about this, i have a tankless hot water heater, and have to do maintenance on it cleaning the burner, vent and such. well, there is a copper pipes with fins around it (like a car radiator), have used small wire brush, vacuum and compressed air but doesn't get all clean. started to think what solutions can i use to clean it, finally came to your channel, bingo, not just for making spirits but for other apppliance maintenance! i'll let ya know how it works. thanks George.
Thanks George, Always dropping those useful nuggets of information on us!
Mr. George, that was very helpful, thank you so much!
Pay Back time GEORGE, Hope you read this. The cleaner made from Water, Citric Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide is amazing. Tip for you. Ark Welders cable is a good resource for copper wire to make scrubbers from. Thick as your thumb and made up from hundreds and hundreds of fine wires of pure copper. Strip the outer and tease out. Form into what ever shape you want. Mine is 50 mm round by 500 mm long and in the top of a pot head still. Kind Regards from New Zealand.
All this stuff is basically acids, and any acid will work for cleaning off oxidation (but some are toxic and dangerous to handle). Acetic acid (vinegar) and citric acid (basically lemon juice) are good, safe biodegradable acids to use in reasonable solutions. Acetic acid vaporizes completely without residue in room temp, and citric acid is fantastic at dissolving mineral buildups from the water. That's why it gets used in so many bathroom cleaner products (that smell like citrus). Both can be found in bulk in pure form at a low cost (citric acid in power form). You don't need many percent acid-to-water solution to gently remove smaller layers of oxidation (on most metals) and mineral buildups (making them pretty safe to touch, although gloves are best). The concentration is mainly just a question of if you want to leave your parts in the cleaning bath for 12hrs or 1hr. Remember to rinse off fully though. Even if these two mentioned are not toxic - a low PH residual layer will make oxidation happen again faster than normal, so you don't want to leave it on there after the cleaning is done.
Good stainless steel is hard to beat in terms of cleaning and maintenance IMO. If you want copper in the still then just use some copper packing - and cleaning those will be as easy as just having a big mason jar with the same type of cleaning acid solution. Dip - wait - and rinse. Reusable even. Good as new. Even though this may technically dissolve some metal too if you leave it for too long or with too strong acid - we are talking about micron-size layers, so even those thin fibers in copper mesh aren't going to wear out from this in your lifetime probably.
Very useful show. The idea of CLR, if you had not brought this to my attention, well just thanks
thanks for the refresher course: who wants class notes? CLR (for cleaning water deposits)
tarn-x (for cleaning cooper)
(500 ml water)+( hydrogenperoxid 50 ml)+( citric acid one once)
white vinegar with water
Your DIY copper cleaning receipt is the best. I have tested it - and i am happy :) Thanks George !
Thank you sir! I have been trying to go through your video library. I think I should call you professor! Your shop is great I wish I had one just as nice. I hope to meet you someday. Regards, Lance
Straight up vinegar works great on copper packing, just place in a water glass or jar and cover with vinegar for about an hour. Cheapest! I'm spoiled with stainless steel everything else.
When I mix up a batch of Star San, I put some in an empty Easy Clean tub and dump my copper in it. Leave it for a few hours and in comes out bright and clean.
Sir you just taught me how to clean my copper alembic. Thank you!
Hi George what concentrate percentage peroxide are you using? that will affect the quantity you put into your mix.
3%
This is the first time I've heard somebody outside of the swimming pool industry talking about the difference between clean and sanitary. Residential pools aren't routinely inspected like public pools are and the inspectors of the public pools will even tell you they are not there to inspect the cleanliness of the pool (leaves, debris, ect), they are concerned with the sanitary condition of the pool (water chemically balanced).
It was hilarious when he said don't message me asking if you can use specific vinegar. Lol. Very nice video by the way..
How do you get those hard stains off though? Your technique definitely works but I can get those difficult ones off.
Thanks again for this priceless information............
Cheers
Liked the citric acid recipe...sometimes you can't get in the nooks and crannys. Just pour it in and let her sit...very nice !!!
I've found starsan something that all brewers should have works just fine turns copper shiny in seconds and sterilizes it to
Didn't know it cleaned copper that well.. Thanks for the tip! I'll try it soon
You are right! The thought hadn’t occurred to me, but it is acidic but safe to use just like vinegar. Are you using it full strength or dilute it?
I run 1 oz to a regular spray bottle size and just power wash it .I was cleaning my 6 gal copper still and to my amazement it just went bright copper not polished gold but tarnish be gone with just a few sprays no scrubbing
You da man George another useful video full of good information thank you for your help in making me a great distiller.
Thanks for the info ,it was awesome.
I have old brass sprinkler heads I’ve collected how do i clean those is thair some sort a liquid form to dip it in? Just for the heck of it
Thanks George, awesome content. That has helped me a lot :) Love all your videos, thanks mate.
Citric acid and water is all that I use and you can find the citric acid in the canning isle at both your grocery store and walmart.
How do you make it friend?, Could you teach me?
Thanks, George. Just finished cleaning my copper wort chiller. Looks like a brand new penny.
My wife is currently posting a heap of pots and pans over from Australia for you to sort out. Seriously The most important thing you said was clean things as you use them. its not rocket science just soap and water. Thank you for the common sense approach.
I tried the vinegar and salt method. However, the next day the copper appears dirty again. It didn’t maintain it’s bright luster?
what strength peroxide was that, we have 3%,6%,9% and 12% commonly available here in Aus
3%
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Ah well I just went out and bought 5l of 50% from my local pool shop guess Ill not be needing a top up for the rest of my life haha at least it was cheap
my issue is is that I make a lot of small test batches in a smaller still. my bit 20 gal I dont use that often. I clean it after a run but it sits for a while before I use it again. which method would be best to run through so clean while still from sitting? I can only gues that running clr through the still isnt a good idea.I run it through my coffee pot so not sure why it couldnt be but I never heard anyone talk about it
About sanitation, can you explain how to make the spray you always use when you clean stuff?
Certainly. I will include that in the next video update of our Sake
Hey George!
Have you ever tried to cleaning copper with a
ultrasonic? Had been interesting ...
You rock...
Best regards from Sweden..
Another good way might be using white vinegar and table salt, boil it through system? I used to use it to flush house copper piping... And flush with warm water.
we cant buy that Tarnex here in Norway, is it some kind of acid ? maybe i can use that PH - powder for pools ? what is the PH that i need ?
Very good to know these things (tips for the trade)
What about diluted muriatic acid? I use it if I'm doing alot of plumbing fitting rinse well in water.
Thanks George, that does help me!
just a fyi George i have found that soaking copper in starsan and water also take the patina off.
My first hazardous hobby is reloading pistol and rifle ammo. They make really cheap copper "coated" bullets too, they also tend to suck out loud! Always go with thick copper jackets or straight lead for bullets. No lead in distilling though, that should fall under common sense.
Hey, what's up with those five motors with the flexible shafts on them in the back? What do you do with those? ;-)
I got tired of stopping and changing the bit,blade or other attachment so I attached the ones most used and just bought the requisite number of tools.
Saves me quite a bit of time when I am working.
I love all the advice . New and still learning . I’m just curious ... in order to keep copper looking shiny clean ... does not that “ Bar Keepers Friend “ work ??? Just asking .
Tarn X ... alright ... good advice
Great tips, George! Thank you
What is the concentration of your hydrogen peroxide?
I found a nifty and cheap way to clean my copper still and its parts. Simply spray them with StarSan. It does a pretty good job and works quickly. Try it
K.I.S.S. i have a all copper pot still, 50/50 water and vinegar clean the pot and lid then crank up the heat without cooling the condenser. get some nasty looking green stuff out of it.
When filling a thumper does it have to be a tails from a previous batch or can it be a blended fruit to fuse the flavor?
Could you do a video on how to fuse flavors into a spirit??
If you think of a thumper as a gin basket, you can just add flavors. If you start a run alcohol will condensed into the thumper and then it will start running. My option is it does. It have to be tails, I have seen it work perfectly with just flavors!
As far as understand the sacrificial run is to clean up flux from soldering, but I'm not a expert.
Thanks , George
Just looked up Tarn-x on the web. Apparently it has issues "This "Wipe & Rinse" product contains up to 7 percent thiourea, a chemical considered a carcinogen by the state of California. The company's technical information for workers says "prolonged or repeated exposure may cause reproductive and fetal effects."". Like George says, RINSE, RINSE, RINSE. Like everything that works, it needs to be used with due care. Ain't no such thing as a free lunch.
what about citric acid ?
I use vinegar and salt it cleans awesome
Thank God. TarnX is the miracle that I’ve been looking for. 🙏
A vinegar cleaning run and a sacrificial alcohol run is the best, safest and easiest way to clean a still. I don't like using soaps and chemicals. Rinse the interior of the still after each run.
So if you're needing to submerge a 5 gallon pot still, you'd need.... 5 gallons of water, 64 oz of HP and 37 oz of citric acid. And a big bucket 😂 You are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you for the education 🙏
Good information
Thank You George :)
One word " Ketchup". It was used by any one in the woods because it sticky and it works. also use a piece of copper mesh as a scrubber pad.
Dissimilar metals cause electrolysis.
For cleaning worms & other non scrub-able parts try the Cheap Walmart brand Denture cleaners, bust them up & add the bits into the worm add warm water -seems to do a good job stripping the crud & as its designed to be used on dentures its a lot less toxic than other cleaners, with a decent rinse it seems to clear up any aftertaste better than vinegar (to my nose at least )
Thanks !!
Cooper cleaning. A strong solution of citric acid will do the trick. Citric acid is cheap and cleans like Tarn-X at a fraction of the price.
in Australia they call it Tarn Off
Worlds best copper cleaner lime a way foam
Be careful about common chemicals especially when you are in a commercial environment because you may order some of them and won't be protected by local retail product concentrations. For instance, you can order hydrogen peroxide 40% and it will come in a bottle that looks exactly like the weak mixture at Walmart and will do some serious damage to your skin before you know what happened. I speak from experience cleaning copper. And wear those gloves and check the bottles.
Vinegar works good also!
Vinegar and salt solution will go a long way and its non toxic.
thanks a lot !!
How to clean SPP
👍
Wipe with star San full strength.
Turns BRIGHT in 3 seconds
Can’t buy Tanr-x here so just made up a litre of you homemade stuff. For once your wrong about something George - saw results immediately ;-)
The scotch Brite thing I was guilty of never noticed that before says coated u prob forgot more about this art then I will ever know I'm just a newbie lol
Ketchup & rock Salt with a swab and long stick
Thanks for the 411
Look at that Navy Issue jacket
Lime a way foam cleaner home depot and rinse well very little effort
Great tip!
1 ounce is 28.35 grams.
I can't take advice about how to clean a pot from someone who never removed the original giant sticker on the front of the pot.