Literally hand tight only. Over tightening even once will destroy the bearings. Hand tight, spin rotor back and forth as you tighten and back off. Repeat several times. Tighten hand tight and put the Cotterpin in place to prevent the nut from backing out. I cannot stress enough do not go beyond hand tight.
Found this super helpful, I'm in the middle of doing the brakes on my 1990. Also if you've got a pair of crutches lying around with no use and no impact, they work great as leverage bars for loosening up those tight nuts and bolts or even for torquing where ever you're able to fit it of course
Rather than loosening the bleeder valve on the caliper, I believe you can just take the cap off your brake fluid reservoir when compressing the piston. Great and helpful video though my friend, going to do brakes on my 1990 soon. Thanks for the video 👍
Great Video Brad. Just what I was looking for. I have a 1999 Toyota Hiace, with the same setup. I intend to try doing the job without changing the bearings, being super careful to stop dirt getting in.
Thanks for going into detail bro. I’ve literally watched several videos and they didn’t explain anything but the “job” they were doing. I’ve got a ‘94 2wd and a ‘02 Tacoma 2wd and that’s what I’m replacing on the ‘02 never done it before so thanks for making a good video dude 🤌👌🤙
Awesome vid! There are no specific videos I could find for my 1992 Isuzu PU but this is basically the same thing. Wonderfully explained and gave me clarity on how all the bearings, rotors etc. come together. The labor looks to be within my mechanical skill set. Bravo 👏👏👏
Tip: when separating the hub from the rotor just lay it flat on the back of rotor and use a pry bar between the stud and rotor and tap adjacent side with a hammer it will pop loose then swap sides with the hammer and pry bar it comes apart easily without causing any damage, good luck everyone
thx bro, like to point out (which you show) the caliper slide pins come out first, then you can get to the caliper bracket. Kind of unique setup...thought I might have to take the lines loose but I dont. Bucket to hold the caliper is a nice tip too, thanks
Thanks, man - you just saved me several hours by sharing your experience changing the front end brakes and bearings. I was not planning on doing the bearings - just the brakes - but seeing how the bearings and brakes are integrated - it kinda seems like I should take advantage while I'm pulling the wheel assembly apart. Can you confirm those 5 bolts attaching the rotor to the bearing housing are 14mm? I'm asking because I think mine might be larger - sort of thinking someone put the wrong bolts in. One tip I might humbly add: if your bolts are stubborn, an overnight soak in PB blaster can make a world of difference. Also - a tip if you are doing this the 1st time: pull off both tires, but keep one side intact while you do the other, so if you can't recall exactly how everything went together, you can use the untouched side as a guide.
Torque spec on the rotor bolts is 47ft-lb. Guide pins are 65, and caliper mount ["torque plate"] bolts are 80. If you change hoses, torque to caliper at 22ft-lb [and beware of re-using copper crush washers].
If you install new bearings you need to drive the vehicle for a few miles and re check the bearing adjustment. If the races and rollers are in good shape no need for replacement. Yours looked good from what I saw?
Good advice! Also ya mine were probably good but they're like $3 each and I don't actually know the last time they were replaced so I changed them since I had the hub off 👍
Nice project truck. I saw your radio video, no AC? Where do you live? My aging 1994 needs various work. I bought in ‘98 and it recently became my primary vehicle again. Changed radio right away. Did changing the bearings make much difference? I need to do brakes and rotors and debating a bearing change.
Sounds like a cool truck! I would recommend doing the bearings if you're already doing the rotors. For me it made a big difference because mine were worn and loud. But they're pretty cheap and not too difficult to replace and you'll have to remove the hub from the spindle to change the rotors either way. So for a little extra work you don't have to mess with it for a long time.
I have to same truck, I was wondering how I can take off the wheel bearing hub assembly to change my broken wheel stud since the new one cannot fit while the hub is attached to the rotor. Do you think I can take off the five bolts holding it to the rotor and wack off the assembly? Or do I have to take off the nut for the wheel bearing. Best
I don't think you'll be able to get the wheel stud out unless you take the hub off at the bearing. The rotor is between the hub and spindle so even if you took the bolts out you wouldn't really be able to access the backside of the hub. You might be able to squeeze the old bolt out from between the two when separated but you'll never be able to press the new stud in while assembled.
@@bradleybarringerIf you can get the new stud in position you should be able to "press" the new stud in place by simply putting on the lug nut {without the wheel} and tightening it with just normal socket wrench force, I did this about 30 years ago on a Dodge as best as I can remember. Washers may be needed to pull the stud all the way up to get past the unthreaded shoulder on the stud.
Speaking of the front brakes, I have a '74 Hilux that came with drums and I found '75 Hilux spindle assemblies at a wrecking yard and calipers that bolted right up, no change to the master cylinder and they seem to be working fine for several years now, work better and much easier to service than the original '74 dual wheel cylinder drums.
What’s the nut size on the wheel bearing? Doing this tomorrow and wanna torque it with a wrench since I don’t have good intuition on torque ratings
Sorry just saw your reply, I believe it is a 54mm nut for the wheel bearing. Pretty large haha!
Literally hand tight only. Over tightening even once will destroy the bearings. Hand tight, spin rotor back and forth as you tighten and back off. Repeat several times. Tighten hand tight and put the Cotterpin in place to prevent the nut from backing out. I cannot stress enough do not go beyond hand tight.
Great info
Hey friend - I just was working on my 1989 2wd sr5, and the main axle nut was 30mm.
Found this super helpful, I'm in the middle of doing the brakes on my 1990. Also if you've got a pair of crutches lying around with no use and no impact, they work great as leverage bars for loosening up those tight nuts and bolts or even for torquing where ever you're able to fit it of course
Rather than loosening the bleeder valve on the caliper, I believe you can just take the cap off your brake fluid reservoir when compressing the piston. Great and helpful video though my friend, going to do brakes on my 1990 soon. Thanks for the video 👍
I used a mechanical puller to press the caliper open too, it becomes just as good as a purpose caliper spreader tool.
Great Video Brad. Just what I was looking for. I have a 1999 Toyota Hiace, with the same setup. I intend to try doing the job without changing the bearings, being super careful to stop dirt getting in.
Love this video. I just got a 1992 toyota pickup, and I'm learning as much as I can about it
Thanks Bradley for your effort here mate you just saved me a bucket of time on my Australia version of 1999 Toyota Hiace van that has the same set up.
Thanks for going into detail bro. I’ve literally watched several videos and they didn’t explain anything but the “job” they were doing. I’ve got a ‘94 2wd and a ‘02 Tacoma 2wd and that’s what I’m replacing on the ‘02 never done it before so thanks for making a good video dude 🤌👌🤙
Thanks man I appreciate it! I'm no expert either but I was having a similar issue finding videos so figured I'd share my process 👍
It helped me out to the T 🤌 so again thanks man and keepem coming 🤙
You should keep doing these pickup videos, I just got me a 95 and I'm still pretty new at working on them. But you got a couple good videos here bro.✌
Awesome vid! There are no specific videos I could find for my 1992 Isuzu PU but this is basically the same thing. Wonderfully explained and gave me clarity on how all the bearings, rotors etc. come together. The labor looks to be within my mechanical skill set. Bravo 👏👏👏
Thanks Jericho, I appreciate the kind words! Hopefully the info helps you out with your Isuzu!
Tip: when separating the hub from the rotor just lay it flat on the back of rotor and use a pry bar between the stud and rotor and tap adjacent side with a hammer it will pop loose then swap sides with the hammer and pry bar it comes apart easily without causing any damage, good luck everyone
thx bro, like to point out (which you show) the caliper slide pins come out first, then you can get to the caliper bracket. Kind of unique setup...thought I might have to take the lines loose but I dont. Bucket to hold the caliper is a nice tip too, thanks
Your 92' is cherry bro! I've got a 94' but thanks for the video, it's appreciated and also very satisfying!
Thanks man! I love the 94s tbh, especially with the cab brake light 😂😍.
Thanks, I learned enough to try it myself.
Love it! I'm a total novice but still enjoy sharing the adventure
Awesome job Bradley! Thanks
Good looks my dude. Very helpful, gonna do my rotors &breaks tomorrow👍🏽
Thanks, man - you just saved me several hours by sharing your experience changing the front end brakes and bearings. I was not planning on doing the bearings - just the brakes - but seeing how the bearings and brakes are integrated - it kinda seems like I should take advantage while I'm pulling the wheel assembly apart. Can you confirm those 5 bolts attaching the rotor to the bearing housing are 14mm? I'm asking because I think mine might be larger - sort of thinking someone put the wrong bolts in. One tip I might humbly add: if your bolts are stubborn, an overnight soak in PB blaster can make a world of difference. Also - a tip if you are doing this the 1st time: pull off both tires, but keep one side intact while you do the other, so if you can't recall exactly how everything went together, you can use the untouched side as a guide.
update: I checked, and they are indeed 14mm bolts.
Torque spec on the rotor bolts is 47ft-lb. Guide pins are 65, and caliper mount ["torque plate"] bolts are 80. If you change hoses, torque to caliper at 22ft-lb [and beware of re-using copper crush washers].
Thanks for the video bro 👏 appretiate all your work and help
thank my friends
Nice ..job..
I'm fixing mine now
Thank you bro .
Good video, but... I have watched several with wide range of torque specs for axle nut (2WD): from snug to 25 ft-lb to 176 ft-lb.
If you install new bearings you need to drive the vehicle for a few miles and re check the bearing adjustment. If the races and rollers are in good shape no need for replacement. Yours looked good from what I saw?
Good advice! Also ya mine were probably good but they're like $3 each and I don't actually know the last time they were replaced so I changed them since I had the hub off 👍
Good job
Thank you
Thank you for sharing the video. What is the model of the drill you use in the video?
Should've put a bit of anti seize on backing plate of brake pads and ears that ride against clip
excellent rthank you
If it’s not too much trouble, what type of grease are you using?
sweet cheers bro
Definitely consider getting a Thor hammer. In Wisconsin you need pb blast and a big hammer.
Is this similar to 85 pickups? Thanks all
What wheels are you running ? Did they bolt right up ?
Nice project truck. I saw your radio video, no AC? Where do you live? My aging 1994 needs various work. I bought in ‘98 and it recently became my primary vehicle again. Changed radio right away. Did changing the bearings make much difference? I need to do brakes and rotors and debating a bearing change.
Sounds like a cool truck! I would recommend doing the bearings if you're already doing the rotors. For me it made a big difference because mine were worn and loud. But they're pretty cheap and not too difficult to replace and you'll have to remove the hub from the spindle to change the rotors either way. So for a little extra work you don't have to mess with it for a long time.
Thanks
I have to same truck, I was wondering how I can take off the wheel bearing hub assembly to change my broken wheel stud since the new one cannot fit while the hub is attached to the rotor.
Do you think I can take off the five bolts holding it to the rotor and wack off the assembly? Or do I have to take off the nut for the wheel bearing.
Best
I don't think you'll be able to get the wheel stud out unless you take the hub off at the bearing. The rotor is between the hub and spindle so even if you took the bolts out you wouldn't really be able to access the backside of the hub. You might be able to squeeze the old bolt out from between the two when separated but you'll never be able to press the new stud in while assembled.
@@bradleybarringer Thank you!
@@bradleybarringerIf you can get the new stud in position you should be able to "press" the new stud in place by simply putting on the lug nut {without the wheel} and tightening it with just normal socket wrench force, I did this about 30 years ago on a Dodge as best as I can remember. Washers may be needed to pull the stud all the way up to get past the unthreaded shoulder on the stud.
hi, for your toyota hilux, did you convert drum brakes to disc? or is it original discs?
I have original discs on the front and original drums on the rear. Hoping to upgrade at some point though!
Speaking of the front brakes, I have a '74 Hilux that came with drums and I found '75 Hilux spindle assemblies at a wrecking yard and calipers that bolted right up, no change to the master cylinder and they seem to be working fine for several years now, work better and much easier to service than the original '74 dual wheel cylinder drums.
Whats the name of that metal plate behind the rotor, ?
can you do the rear?
9:45 "Puto Parts" really?
Those China made bearings are trash. Should’ve got OEM or koyo made in Japan ones
Who else feels dumber after listening to flip flops call everything the wrong names ?
Never work with sandals or open toe shoes when working on a car. Major safety issue
Have same truck (Southern California) head gasket went (250 thousand miles) would make great parts truck (or drive again?)
Hell ya man! I would go with drive again but that's just me 😉