Honda Element/CRV 110K Service (Part 1) -EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
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This video series covers the major service on the Honda Element and CRV. It includes the replacement of all the fluids as well as the filter replacements for the 110K service. In addition the serpentine belt replacement, spark plug replacement, and brake service. You can also use this video for minor services and just pick the procedures that you're due for. Here are some additional video links that you may also find helpful.
Part 2: • Honda Element/CRV 110K...
Cabin air filter replacement:
Brake fluid change video: • How To Replace Brake ...
Front disc brake replacement: • Front Disc Brakes and ...
Rear disc brake replacement: • How To Replace Rear Di...
Honda transmission fluid: • How To Change Honda Au...
Serpentine Belt Video: • How To Replace a Serpe...
Bleeding air out of coolant: • How To Bleed A Cooling...
Suspension noise and inspection: • How To Find Suspension...
Winterizing your vehicle: • How To Winterize Your ...
Silicone paste: www.amazon.com/...
Discussion about this video: www.ericthecarg...
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Eric guys like you make this World a better place bro. Thanks for your time and expertise.
Eric you are probably the most easy going guy to watch with this kind of video that i have ever come across not patronising and very helpful , thanks a lot.
I did spark plus on my cr-v today. As a total novice, what a fun, easy, satisfying job!
I've also been digesting your videos on more intense stuff like suspension components, etc. Thanks so much for your channel!
Spark plug install tip I learned at a Honda engine training center..get a piece of hose that snug fits the end of the plug to lower it into the plug well and use other end of hose to start tightening it before you use the socket
When I see you open up a cover with the dirt and debris adjacent to the components take a minute and vacuum the dirt to keep out of the engine. Makes me crazy to see sloppy work when a wet rag would solve the problem and possibly prevent a disaster by junk in engine.
Yeah, I thought the same thing. With the spark plug wells open and any of the spark plugs removed you run a risk of introducing debris into the engine. For the same reasons; you want to have parts and materials laid-out and ready to go. So you won’t be exposing these entry points for a longer period of time than necessary, also this is no time to walk away from your work, looking for something you need.
Same complete service that i did to my old '93 fiat. I changed: manual transmission fluid, oil & filter, sparkplugs, air filter, fuel filter, brake fluid (full). At only 65k miles but she need it, after 19 years.... nice tips Eric!!
I've had my Element for about 5 years not and it's been trouble free for the most part. The K series has held up very well also. I've wanted an Element since they came out BTW.
top tip to get the plugs in a deep hole. push the ends in to a bit of hose pipe screw them in a little and pull the hose pipe off . grate for hard to get to plugs to
ERIC, here's a tip I use on my vehicle. When I put the plugs back in I use a old plug boot to snap the new plug into.(in ur case, urs uses the coil on type, maybe pick up a junk one from junk yard, etc, keep in ur tool box) Then use that to install the plug, and use to tighten the plug if it would happen to cross thread, the boot will slip and prevent the plug from cross thread. Also saves that dropping of the plug. Just a tip what i recommend...:)...Love the vids, learn a lot from ya.Thanks
Hi Eric, Just wanna say that I did my first HONDA CRV Timing belt, water pump changed after watching your video. So just want to say Thank you
Eric deserves every sub.
Just bought an 04 element with 280,000, needs a head gasket but damn are these things built well, northeast driven and not a lick of rust!!!! Great videos Eric, keep up the great work!!!
WOW.. This post makes me hopeful.. I'm at 206k on my 2005 E. I hope to make as far as I can in mileage. 🙂
No Eric!
U were supposed 2blow off the area about the coils2 prevent contamination of the spark plug wells& again after loosening ea plug2 prevent contamination of the combustion chambers.
I mix my Permatex Anti-seize w/ATF 2keep it fresh& viscous. A dab will do ya. I recommend this2 prevent long term anodic corrosion. That was the squeaking that I heard when u were removing the spark plugs.
I use a mechanical or magnetic spark plug socket for removal& installation. Further, I recommend the coati gang of the inner coil boot w/silicone dielectric. Some also prefer 2coat the exterior male DCI electrical connectors w/either white lithium grease or silicone dielectric compound 4the same reason.
Just remove the plastic cover Eric. Once u bow them up, it takes a replacement or removal &heat gun tweaking 2get back2 normal. Otherwise it will b hanging out in2 the air stream &adding drag.
my wife drives a 2005 Honda Element that has now 180,000 miles on it and it still runs great. I do all the service myself so far its been a very easy car to work on. Thanks for your great vids keep up the good work. Oh yea you need to tell people about the valve solenoid easy fix.
I'm glad he made the switch to Diamond Grips gloves ❤❤
Eric, I own a 2011 Honda Crv-exl 115,000mi. thank you for a great video. I have did most of my service due to your help keep up the good work.
Buying a 2014 CRV this week but also own a 2005 TSX. Both K series engines. I change my oil every 7500 miles on the TSX and according to black stone oil labs analysis of my oil, 5000 miles were too short and the oil was in great shape.. Thats why I do 7500 miles but Honda recommends 10,000 mile changes.. Also I used spark plugs that were not the exact fit on my TSX for about 70,000 miles. No engine issues at all but I definitely noticed better gas mileage after changing back to the original recommended plugs (the old plugs were not bad yet). I drove the same 240 miles route every weekend for 2 years to compare the mpg difference. Currently 155,000 miles on the TSX, never changed a crush washer on the transmission drain plug. Change the ATF every 25-35k miles (every 2 years) and its still a nice red, but would like it staying nice and red.
I'm proud of you Eric! For using new crush washers.
Mr. Nice guy please make a video on replacing the element's ball joint/ control arm. It is a pain in the ass you are right. Thanks in advance.
Eric. First off I haven't seen your channel in a few years. I bought one of these looking for another on facebook marketplace, offer up, and ebay. Today a randomly log on and see some long bearded hipster doing a review on a 2003. (Internet spy's seen my browsing and set a trap in youtube) Then it auto changed to your channel. I had no idea you had one and had so many videos for it. I also learned 8 new things from your channel.
Great advice - NGK or ND only! No Bosch, Champion, Autolite, AC, E3, or any other non-Japanese plugs.
Long wrenches help a LOT.
Hi Erick I enjoy and appreciate your videos. You mentioned accidentally bending that fragile electrode on the spark plug. I use a foot or so of fuel line and stick the plug into the end of the fuel hose and then i have total control of the plug and can start the threads by hand to make sure i have no cross threading especially in delicate aluminum heads. just a thought from myself to you. Happy wrenching J.W.
NGK actually recommend not to use any anitiseize or any other lubricant for the thread. Great video, thanks Eric
I checked my valve adjustment/ lash measurements (no noise) on my crv with the same engine at 140k. Exhaust was very tight, maybe .004 in , I adjusted them to the recommended range (Exh .011-.013 in). Other forum posts on web also read about tightening clearances over time. Engine now clicks at idle, runs great.
I really appreciate your video. Spark plugs changed @ 100k. Perfect. Appreciate.
Got honda element because you have one and you have this kind of videos about it ... Thanks.
Wow wish I lived near you …I’d be paying for your work on my E’ great video
The head mechanic at my local Honda dealership for over 30 years is a trusted friend and he said the valves should definitely be adjusted on this engine because they tend to tighten instead of loosen. This makes the advice on loud valves a moot point. The job is so tedious (expensive manhours) that I schedule this along with the spark plugs and coils separately from the other "big" job of replacing the water pump, serpentine belt, tensioner, pulley and thermostat (expensive manhours), to make it less painful on my wallet. But since I only average 10K miles/year on each of my vehicles (or less, now that I'm retired), it is tolerable.
I syphoned out a about 3 litres of fluid and put 3 litres fresh in. I drove for 5k km and did the same again. After another 5 K I changed the filter and added fluid.
It now shifts properly. Cheaper than a new transmission
thanks - with covid -19 and not alot of money your video help me to install it myself. and save me alot of money.
thanks 🙏
i mean with covid 19 going on , and no work- thats what i meant . 😂
3,000 miles between oil changes is what you should do if you wish to get 250K plus on these cars. I have had 9 Hondas and they are all on their 2nd or third owners at this point. My 1982 Accord LX just bit the dust at 672,000. Sad day but the body was 100% rusted out. The engine still ran but the 2nd manual transmission had syncro problems and needed another clutch. My 2006 CRV just hit 180,000, barely broken in. The engineers at Honda are excellent but they do need you to still buy cars hence the 10K interval not to mention Honda supports Green issues so 10K is a lot friendlier to the environment then 3k is. Since I own mine and need them to last, I do the 3k change and even that to me sometimes seems high. You can't really use synthetic in these cars say like Porsche, AUDI, VW, and so forth so intervals are higher. I have a few friends that went the synthetic way and they wound up will all kinds of seal leaks with age especially in environments with wide gaps in temperature like we experience in the North East. I use to work for Honda years ago and all of us way over serviced our own cars. A few of them are still road worthy but are getting long in the tooth.
Hope this helps................
5k mile changes on my 202k mile Element. Still runs excellent.
There is absolutely no reason you cant run synthetic oil in them. I run it in my 2003 crv and change it at 5k miles. Heck im running synthetic in my 1989 f150 it has high milage.
Great advice, true car buffs will get it. I heard about newer Honda's pretty much being ok with synthetic but there are tons of stories of older ones having leaks like you mention.
Rob M i
Actually, the guy makes a lot of sense Shuffle3956...................would be curious to know....................what is your expertise beyond calling people idiots?
Fantastic video! Love the overall presentation as well as the sound and picture quality. Thanks for doing this! FYI, the 10K interval for Honda oil changes is predicated on the use of synthetic oil. But, I agree, I don't want to leave anything in there longer than 5K either.
I agree. These NGK plugs have a special coating that does not require lubrication.
Spark plugs these days come with an antiseize coating on the threads anyway. I forgot to use antiseize recently, then 30,000 miles later, the plugs came right out. Plus, they come gapped already to avoid problems. Any time I check the gaps on new plugs, they are spot on.
Why not use a spark plug socket to hold the spark plug instead of dropping them down the holes?
We have a 2006 element that we bought brand new back then, now has 207k miles and never had any issues, except a few dear strikes and hail damage, but thats cosmetic. Only major things we had to do was change fluids, belt, and adjust the valves. Best car we have ever owned
Gagers66 wtf , what belt,? this car uses chain
JA VI the serpentine belt, not the timing chain
Gagers66 oh lol you got me scared for a sec, I was like this guy should not touch under the hood.
you sir have changed my mind on buying that $22 tool! or making on!
thanks so much!
It's a good idea as there is no better time then after you do the tires but mine wasn't having any issues with tire wear so I let it go this time.
Its like sitting around at the garage drinking a cold one, soaking up game from the old heads. Eric the mutha effin' car guy!
Lost it years ago. Keep in mind I've been doing this for a living for some time now. I'm not saying that's right not to have a grommet but I've been working without it for years now so I guess I'm used to it.
Very informative. Looking to buy a used 04 Element with 127K miles on it and this is just what I needed. Thanks!
Interstate batteries work very well and last for years. The red and green donuts you can buy for your battery posts seems to keep away corrosion very well for me. It used to be pretty bad a year ago, now it's gone.
Wonderful work, Eric!
The radio code is in the glove compartment.
Where?
in this video (th-cam.com/video/ecH90HkGKbc/w-d-xo.html), its on the right inside of glove box. On my CRV 2002 is it on the left outside of glove box, but sticker looks the same.
I use Mobile 1 and change at ~3-4Kmiles on my 2012 CRV.
Did the same for my 2020 Accord and got 375,000 miles before I recently sold it.
You need to invest in a spark plug socket haha also look in the back of any Chilton or Haines and it will give you a guide (with pictures) of how to read spark plugs, the idea behind diagnosing a head gasket would be looking for a plug that looks unusually clean hinting at water (coolant) leaking from a water jacket into your cylinder via a bad head gasket or warped head.
Oh I forgot to mention that the white ash deposits I noticed on your plugs is possibly due to fuel additives , or lean condition . Equally important to have your car checked with a lap scope for all electrical parameters, specially for O2 sensor even if there is no trouble codes. Also when reconnect the injectors or any contact, spray a squirt of video head cleaner to freshen the contacts from any glaze. Also use contact cleaner on other contacts. Love your Videos.Have a nice time.
To stop battery sulfation on my ej8 I replaced my negative wire from the battery to the chassis with a negative 0 gauge replacement from autozone and then from the same bolt where these 0 gauge negative negative cable attach to the chassis I run a negative cable 4 gauge to the same bolt grounds the transmission to the chassis.
I'm glad you did too.
My buddy uses a vacuum hose to slowly seat the Spark plugs. And it has worked fine with him.
If you read in some owners manual they have to 2 oil change interval schedule. One for regular driving ( In ideal driving conditions) and one for rough service driving. Surprisingly most cars are used in a rough service setting : stop and go traffic driving, long idling stuck in traffic and short trips, this is even worst in cold weather because the car doesn't have a chance to warm up the oil gets dirty much faster... Eric you should do a video on this topic most people don't know about this...
Excellent informative video! ( 10:45… I use an 18” long fuel hose to gently lower in spark plugs. I only use spark plug socket/wrench to torque spark plugs to spec)
I scrub the battery terminals with water mixed with baking soda, and a toothbrush. works great. I recommend doing that if you notice the lights dimming when RPMs drop.
Love your videos. You're a very honest and sincere individual. Can't get enough of your videos. Love you brother keep up the good work God bless stay safe😇😇😇😇😇😇😇😇😇😇😇😇😇❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Thanks Eric, I enjoy your videos and It gives me the confidence to perform maintenance on my vehicle .
I always use the deep socket with a rubber tube inside it to put the spark plugs back in. Same with taking them out. It holds them in the deep socket.
I really appreciate your videos, Eric because I work at a Honda dealership now and I do a lot of the stuff you do. the new transmissions use a fluid called HCF-2, which is Honda's CVT fluid. I have the smell of it on my hands as I'm typing. Argh, should've wore gloves.
I had to laugh at your remark about frightening us. I guess I was a little frightened when you suspended me from the hood looking down, and when you were working the hood was jiggling, and I was dizzy and wondered if I was going to crash downward onto the battery, ha ha ha. Congrats on the new crush washer -- I haven't graduated yet.
I have a k series motor as well and I wanna change the serpentine belt and this helped alot thanks a ton! Keep up the great work!!!
Eric, thank you so much for posting these videos. Your contributions are highly appreciated.
First,
Love your videos, you take a lot of time to do these. Which is great, very informative too.
Second, a tip that I have been using for years is utilizing an used spark plug cable to put the spark plug in the hole and start the threads, Once its threaded pop the spark plug cable off. Or using the cars originals, but since you have coil packs, its very hard to do so
Another tip I have seen some do is if there is room to stick a small funnel to it and channel the oil towards the drain catch.
Apparently so. I have had mechanics telling me im wrong the way im checking it. ive checked it with the engine off. however, ive been lectured that it gave a false reading. i appreciate you clearing that up. my transmission is holding up but for some reason when i let off the gas the rpms drop to 1k then back up. its been doing it for a while and its nerve racking. never done that before. but thank you sir. very helpful
Many plug makers are coming out with the 'none at all' theme, and I think the core reason is the lower tolerance limits of aluminum heads. One plug maker noted that any lubricant on threads can reduce friction, causing more strain on threads for a fixed applied torque. I have given up using anything on plug threads after reading their literature, though I still use dielectric grease on boots.
I've actually found out that NGK puts a coating on their spark plugs that don't require any lubricants at all, especially anti-sieze. I haven't contradicted myself, I'm just stating my opinions and preferences.
if your plugs have to go in deep you could use a pease of garden hose or something just to hold the plug and turn it a few times so you can pull the hose you could also use the sparkplug socket with an extension to put it in
You could use ~20cm of normal (~8mm) fuel hose in end of that spark plug, to get it safely rigth place, without worrying that you may drop it from your finger tips and damage the plug that way.
Haha no problem. It's definitely worth a try. You still get some spillage if i recall but nothing compared to not using anything. Just keep the bag pressed up against the block and you'll be golden.
As Eric said at 8:20, Corona is nothing to worry about. Lol. How that statement has evolved. 😂
I think if you had it done at the dealer it would run somewhere near the $550 mark. Perhaps more, it's been a while.
Hi Eric, I noticed you said "Check Honda ATF when the car is not running"... something new to me, as I always check ATF while the car is running. I guess I will be checking my 2003 CRV ATF when the car is not running from now on... One question please, does the car has to be warmed up first before check its ATF level?
Check with the engine off but warm/hot. Best time to check it is within a minute of shutting the completely warmed up car off
About power steering fluid, I'm going to tell on myself a little. I'm not sure when it was last changed, which probably contributed to the p/s pump failing (thanks for the confidence you gave me to replace it myself!). The old fluid was jet black, compared to the transparent new fluid. If anything this further reinforces to me the importance of general "boring" maintenance work.
Anyhow great video! :D
I used a syringe to suck out all so it was nearly dry, my old cars power steering fluid.
Added new fluid, then did several lock to lock turns of the wheel to circulate all the new fluid and after wards steering felt better
That appears to be the same engine that's in my mom's '07 Accord EX-L 5 speed manual. Fun car to drive, super easy to service... Honda made the rear brake pads ridiculously easy to change but tucked the air filter up under the drivers side fender. Could use a BIT more power in the mountains. Nice Element!
Haha, bungee cords scare me. Those black gloves are awesome. I've been trying to look for some and I didn't know about the special tool for the filter change on the K's! Awesome vid once again, Eric!
I believe that as time goes on small amounts of the clutch packs wear away into the fluid, basically changing the way it woks in your transmission. Now say you have now changed this really old fluid, you have also lost an considerable amount of this clutch material. Replacing new fluid will cause your transmission to slip.
Personal experience on battery corrosion:
(not scientifically tested, but I believe this is correct)
I have installed solar for 12 years now and I can say for sure that an uncoated battery will corrode LESS than one which has a name brand “anti corrosion” paste.
HOWEVER if you coat your battery terminals/connections with white lithium grease (the stuff in a cardboard can) it will not corrode even in TN 70-100% humidity and that’s what I’ve seen personally.
My dad got me doing that years ago, and it also works at the starter and alternator connections, and off grid solar battery bank connections.
*MOST IMPORTANTLY
DO NOT EVER let an alkaline substance such and baking soda fall into the battery cells, because it NEUTRALIZES THE ACID, and once the acidity is not the same in each cell, the messed up cell will always present a load to the cells of higher voltage, which will cause the battery to die sooner.
*I have seen tens of thousands of dollars worth of high quality flooded lead acid batteries destroyed by the home owners in offgrid solar systems, because they added some kind of baking soda water, vinegar, or some strange mystery battery “booster” liquid.
Just don’t do it.
Buy good batteries,
Keep them clean,
Use white lithium grease on JUST the terminals,
ONLY EVER USE DISTILLED WATER to fill FLA batteries,
And learn what “full” means when watering your battery(ies) it doesn’t mean literally full.
Radio code lol, that was a good one. Every honda ive seen has an aftermarket radio
and Honda will charge you $50 to get the code!...it may be on your driver's side door,...or TH-cam has a video on how to figure it out yourself in two minutes.
Cheers!
there is suppose to be a book in the glove box. last page there should be an attached card with the radio code on it.
ELITExTACO Not my TL ;)
My 2003 Element still has its original factory head unit and 7 speaker system and the CD player even works.
Hurricane Floyd 2000's honda audio systems rock.
Great vid Eric, learned a couple new things such as dropping spark plugs into the engine, Really enjoyed it! Thanks!
Personally I always use Honda transmission fluid.
I have the same year same color same 2.4 but i cant tell if you have the 5 spd. These videos have helped me veryy much thank you eric.
Hey Eric, like others are saying, you are very awesome and cool! thanks for all the time that you spend making these videos, because they are really really useful, and helps people like me, with 2 kids in college to save money...thank you very much!!!
to help get the spark plugs out and back in a his a rubber hose that fits in on the top of the spark plug, that way you dont drop them in and bend the electrode.
One way to limit over tightening is using shorter handle wrenches.. Especially for new home mechanics. Pretty much don't use a ½" drive ratchet on everything. Use a ⅜ or even a ¼ ratchet for small fasteners below 14 mm. That way you do not have enough mechanical advantage to bust stuff.
I'll probably do a video on that at some point. I've got plenty of Honda fluid laying around.
That is correct. Wish I would have mentioned that.
Been watching many of your videos Eric over time before i even subscribed which i do learn many thing even with things i do know it's good to just have a reminder on things as we do forget and i've learned many other things too incl all the hints,tips and what not to do which is important! Hat off to you sir for your effort in making these videos,thanks.
Just love your channel, you explain it perfectly , i have s honda element also. So youve helped me be a better mechanic!! Thank you
Always at least check your gaps, even if you don't adjust them. I've had plugs come out of the box with the electrode bent down onto the pin and all sorts of variation of proper spacing.
Using Wd-40 or Pb blaster helps out a lot... let it soak a few minutes for it to help the best... I have broken bolts by slowly "strength" them out. If its going to break its going to break.
doesn't anyone use a spark plug socket with the built in rubber insert. you dont drop them and you can screw them in easily. brake kleen the rubber in the spark plug socket so they won't fall out.
Honda didn't coat the plug threads with transmission fluid, so you shouldn't.
Use a rubber hose and attach spark plug to one end. Push it down the hole and hand tighten the spark plug. Never have to worry about damaging the ground strap or changing the gap.
Dear Erik, 1) Preferably not to put oil on spark plugs as when the engine is hot its expansion factor might be more than the spark plug and with the oil aid , it might loosen the spark and cause a leak, so coolant liquid is ideal or nothing at all.
Its a good idea to blow the spark plug hole with compressed air before removal to avoid dirt going into the cylinders
Thanks for the oil gutter tool!!!
Most belts no longer show cracks, rather the grooves get deeper and deeper as they wear. Gates makes a tool to measure groove depth, and it's available for free!
If your afraid to drop the spark plugs down in the head, use a piece of fuel line with a new plug stuck on one end and then hand thread it down into the cylinder, works good for me. And no broken plugs anymore.
Or use a friggin sparkplug socket, they have a rubber ring that holds onto the spark plug and prevents it falling out.
Pb blaster cap fits on power steering resiviour perfect btw