Maybe your Devilbiss DV1 would spray better if you got the DV1-C made for clear rather than the DV1-B basecoat gun like you have. I have all 3 Devilbiss DV1 models. The clear gun I spray clear at 10psi. Will agree my DV1-B sprays mrtallic base better than anything I ever owned, all three guns work great. I use an Iwata Wider 4 1.8mm for surfacer/sealer. Also I use PPS 2.0 cups for three reasons. 1. It speeds up time, 2. Saves me money in lacquer thinner from having to clean out a gravity cup, 3. I can cap and save paint that had just been reduced with no catalyst added. The amount of time they save me, and the amount i save in lacquer thinner which is $23/per gallon now days does not make my paint job more expensive
Love the fact that you give out your hard earned knowledge so freely. Every time I see one of your videos I learn something new, (or unlearn something bad). 👍
Hello Mr. Ciotti, Have you made the "beyond mosquito wall" book? if so, then I want to say that the book is amazing and thank you for being my teacher back in Margate 2017.
Interesting listening to your views ..after 35 years of painting. Currently used and have used for the last 10 years, on a daily basis, sata, all models, GTI pro from the 1st made to the current and DV1 in all configurations..and all the iwata 400 series etc. your conclusion on low pressure operations with sata is mind blowing. Have never had any problems with sata guns on any level, seals etc. The 400 is a good gun and has its place in the paint shop but I'm baffled by your conclusions
If I was "baffled", I'd conduct some experiments myself. As far as the SATA is concerned, their own book tells you all I've mentioned regarding the fluid tip seal. The problem with excessive air required vs. Iwata, is an inherent design difference. Easy experiment: Take a Sata, put a diaphram regulator on it, use a hi-flow fitting, and set the air pressure at 8 or 10 lbs, and paint / clear. then tell me what happened. The issue with the DV1, is opportunism on the mfg's. end (refusing to supply a versatile air cap that allows whatever is in the cup to atomize and disperse properly). That problem could be resolved with a conversation to the proper engineer. I actually spoke to a rep very recently regarding that gun and the "air cap specific" subject. I asked that she get my message to the right person, and / or get me a name and number, and I would handle the issue personally. I could (and would) sell their guns again if they will supply us with the proper air caps. I know how passionate we all get. After all, to get automotive painting to a "science", or at least to the point where we are confident and consistent in "what we do", takes a huge amount of patience and dedication. Because of that, we also get an "ego" to go along with it(and rightfully so). I come from a time where the term "single stage" didn't even exist. That being said, I wonder what would happen if a very experienced "painter", by today's standards, took a gun of their choice, and painted an old VW beetle copper or gold metallic "single stage"? Oh, BTW......it has to come out looking like base / clear, and NO cutting and buffing is allowed? We did this every day of the week in the 70's and 80's, and we did it with: Binks #7's, 62's, 69's, Sharpe's, and JGA 502's. This is why I am so opinionated regarding guns today. I hold all suppliers that the Paint Spot deals with, to extremely high standards, including paint gun mfg's. Also, I get nothing out of this except knowing that i've told you the truth. I don't believe anyone out there honestly believes that you need multiple guns for car painting................You only need 1, the "right" one!
First I pressed like, in one min what you Say I changed me mind. Few pneumatic rules, 1. IF you increase pressure, the air speed trough air cap air holes faster 2. If air comes faster it increase volume 3. If air speed increased, behind the air - to the air moving direction, increases air dynamic flow ( suction force ) So if you reduces pressure, you material is more gravity based follow, if increased pressure gravity + suction based flow so you say why I paint better with lower pressures, its rule nr2. if you increased pressure and volume and speed, in hot climate your clear coat particles becomes partial dry (not so wet) and on the surface it no flow so much, if you reduce pressure you not drying clear in the air and it flows better. Good bye.
Been spraying for over 35 years what I have found out is that different clears lay differently I'm a big chromaclear from axalta yes it's a little pricey but you get what you pay for it lays like glass right out of the gun I can spray this stuff out of a Banks 2001 and a cheap harbor freight Black widow and it lays light Glass I love the new iwata ws 400 series 2 gun if you want to spend 800 to 900 bucks it is a awesome clear gun
I have both, Iwata's lays a better finish true, its downfall though is when you have a corner or jam. A SATA will give you the most control allowing fines, its the better all rounder IMHO.
NR95 was a great gun but the nr2000 1.5 sspecifically ( for some reason the 1.5 nozzle was actually smaller than the 1.4 ) was like magic for solvent basecoat. It's still my main gun for metallics to this day. I could not paint with the lph-400 with the orange cap for metallics, or the silver clear cap. The iwata is a better atomizer than Sata, but not better. Sata just has it down when it comes to replicating the factory finish. The DV1 i did not like either.
The nr95 was a great gun! I hated them at first and the whole hvlp movement until I finally gave it a fair chance and got used to it, I was a die hard Jet 90 user, I absolutely loved it after a while for base especially. I still have a brand new nr95 I bought as a back up and stashed, won’t get rid of it. Personally, I never cared for the lph 400 or w400, they’re just too slow for me. Well made and they do atomize nicely but just not for me🤷🏻♂️ The plastic air valve inside the Iwata guns bothers me too, the Chinese have copied those guns dozens of times now and have at least made that valve out of brass lol. I think for the $ these guns cost Iwata could do the same. I do agree with you though that the Sata’s are definitely air hogs, definitely not for the guy painting in a garage with a small compressor. They’ve gotten more and more extreme with their pricing over the years also, long gone are the days of new Sata’s for $200 and some change
Not sure what you mean about waiting on your LVX (that is the orange air cap for the LPH400). If you don't paint very often, and someone else is supplying the paint and clear, then use what you have. There's nothing wrong about using any type gun if that's all you have. But when you can afford something better, you'll be glad you did. :)
@@Oldman4201 Don't know what you paint, or who pays your labor and materials. But ,if it's someone else, then keep using a Sata. I have to consider ALL aspects before I make a recommendation.
I own 4 sata guns , 3 of them have been in use for over 6 years and still work perfectly fine , had a sikkens rep look at them and told me all my hardware in the guns are fine . My sata 3000 is the oldest and still holds up and sprays like a cannon
Maybe your Devilbiss DV1 would spray better if you got the DV1-C made for clear rather than the DV1-B basecoat gun like you have. I have all 3 Devilbiss DV1 models. The clear gun I spray clear at 10psi. Will agree my DV1-B sprays mrtallic base better than anything I ever owned, all three guns work great. I use an Iwata Wider 4 1.8mm for surfacer/sealer. Also I use PPS 2.0 cups for three reasons. 1. It speeds up time, 2. Saves me money in lacquer thinner from having to clean out a gravity cup, 3. I can cap and save paint that had just been reduced with no catalyst added. The amount of time they save me, and the amount i save in lacquer thinner which is $23/per gallon now days does not make my paint job more expensive
Love your willingness to teach!!!!! Awesome video.🙌
Danny, you're cut from the same cloth, and giving back is in our DNA.
Great video, we need more!
Love the fact that you give out your hard earned knowledge so freely. Every time I see one of your videos I learn something new, (or unlearn something bad). 👍
That's the only reason I do these things !!!!!! :)
Hello Mr. Ciotti, Have you made the "beyond mosquito wall" book? if so, then I want to say that the book is amazing and thank you for being my teacher back in Margate 2017.
Interesting listening to your views ..after 35 years of painting. Currently used and have used for the last 10 years, on a daily basis, sata, all models, GTI pro from the 1st made to the current and DV1 in all configurations..and all the iwata 400 series etc. your conclusion on low pressure operations with sata is mind blowing. Have never had any problems with sata guns on any level, seals etc. The 400 is a good gun and has its place in the paint shop but I'm baffled by your conclusions
If I was "baffled", I'd conduct some experiments myself. As far as the SATA is concerned, their own book tells you all I've mentioned regarding the fluid tip seal. The problem with excessive air required vs. Iwata, is an inherent design difference. Easy experiment: Take a Sata, put a diaphram regulator on it, use a hi-flow fitting, and set the air pressure at 8 or 10 lbs, and paint / clear. then tell me what happened.
The issue with the DV1, is opportunism on the mfg's. end (refusing to supply a versatile air cap that allows whatever is in the cup to atomize and disperse properly). That problem could be resolved with a conversation to the proper engineer. I actually spoke to a rep very recently regarding that gun and the "air cap specific" subject. I asked that she get my message to the right person, and / or get me a name and number, and I would handle the issue personally. I could (and would) sell their guns again if they will supply us with the proper air caps.
I know how passionate we all get. After all, to get automotive painting to a "science", or at least to the point where we are confident and consistent in "what we do", takes a huge amount of patience and dedication. Because of that, we also get an "ego" to go along with it(and rightfully so). I come from a time where the term "single stage" didn't even exist. That being said, I wonder what would happen if a very experienced "painter", by today's standards, took a gun of their choice, and painted an old VW beetle copper or gold metallic "single stage"? Oh, BTW......it has to come out looking like base / clear, and NO cutting and buffing is allowed?
We did this every day of the week in the 70's and 80's, and we did it with: Binks #7's, 62's, 69's, Sharpe's, and JGA 502's. This is why I am so opinionated regarding guns today. I hold all suppliers that the Paint Spot deals with, to extremely high standards, including paint gun mfg's. Also, I get nothing out of this except knowing that i've told you the truth.
I don't believe anyone out there honestly believes that you need multiple guns for car painting................You only need 1, the "right" one!
First I pressed like, in one min what you Say I changed me mind. Few pneumatic rules,
1. IF you increase pressure, the air speed trough air cap air holes faster
2. If air comes faster it increase volume
3. If air speed increased, behind the air - to the air moving direction, increases air dynamic flow ( suction force )
So if you reduces pressure, you material is more gravity based follow, if increased pressure gravity + suction based flow
so you say why I paint better with lower pressures, its rule nr2. if you increased pressure and volume and speed, in hot climate your clear coat particles becomes partial dry (not so wet) and on the surface it no flow so much, if you reduce pressure you not drying clear in the air and it flows better.
Good bye.
Couldn't agree with you more...Sata is total shit in my eyes. And yes I have an NR95 too but the go to gun is an Iwata.
😂
I still have my 95 90 and binks #7
Been spraying for over 35 years what I have found out is that different clears lay differently I'm a big chromaclear from axalta yes it's a little pricey but you get what you pay for it lays like glass right out of the gun I can spray this stuff out of a Banks 2001 and a cheap harbor freight Black widow and it lays light Glass I love the new iwata ws 400 series 2 gun if you want to spend 800 to 900 bucks it is a awesome clear gun
Awesome content 😮 TYVM for no bullshit 😮more please 😮
What model Wilkerson regulator is that? Thanks
RO8-02-C0G0B
@@ThePaintSpotAutoBody thank you
I have both, Iwata's lays a better finish true, its downfall though is when you have a corner or jam. A SATA will give you the most control allowing fines, its the better all rounder IMHO.
NR95 was a great gun but the nr2000 1.5 sspecifically ( for some reason the 1.5 nozzle was actually smaller than the 1.4 ) was like magic for solvent basecoat. It's still my main gun for metallics to this day. I could not paint with the lph-400 with the orange cap for metallics, or the silver clear cap. The iwata is a better atomizer than Sata, but not better. Sata just has it down when it comes to replicating the factory finish. The DV1 i did not like either.
The nr95 was a great gun! I hated them at first and the whole hvlp movement until I finally gave it a fair chance and got used to it, I was a die hard Jet 90 user, I absolutely loved it after a while for base especially. I still have a brand new nr95 I bought as a back up and stashed, won’t get rid of it. Personally, I never cared for the lph 400 or w400, they’re just too slow for me. Well made and they do atomize nicely but just not for me🤷🏻♂️
The plastic air valve inside the Iwata guns bothers me too, the Chinese have copied those guns dozens of times now and have at least made that valve out of brass lol. I think for the $ these guns cost Iwata could do the same.
I do agree with you though that the Sata’s are definitely air hogs, definitely not for the guy painting in a garage with a small compressor. They’ve gotten more and more extreme with their pricing over the years also, long gone are the days of new Sata’s for $200 and some change
Anything but a iwata 400 is good for taping high spots down
Sometimes, I just do t have the time ro wait on my lvx... But you waste the same amount of time mixing more paint for your Sata water hose
Not sure what you mean about waiting on your LVX (that is the orange air cap for the LPH400). If you don't paint very often, and someone else is supplying the paint and clear, then use what you have. There's nothing wrong about using any type gun if that's all you have. But when you can afford something better, you'll be glad you did. :)
@ThePaintSpotAutoBody The iwata is alot slower and needs an extra coat with transparent colors vs my sata. That's all I meant
@@alexlove2588 Not sure how to respond to that, so I won't. I think I will address "achieving paint threshold" in the next video.....stay tuned. :)
Keen to see how far you go with it
SATA owns all
Yes, yes they do. I've not found any gun in the last 30 years that stands up to my Phaser.
@@Oldman4201 Don't know what you paint, or who pays your labor and materials. But ,if it's someone else, then keep using a Sata. I have to consider ALL aspects before I make a recommendation.
Some people have more dollars than "sense". Hang in there, you'll figure it out eventually. :)
@@Oldman4201sata is junk for clear. Its good for just about anything else
I own 4 sata guns , 3 of them have been in use for over 6 years and still work perfectly fine , had a sikkens rep look at them and told me all my hardware in the guns are fine .
My sata 3000 is the oldest and still holds up and sprays like a cannon