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First I pressed like, in one min what you Say I changed me mind. Few pneumatic rules, 1. IF you increase pressure, the air speed trough air cap air holes faster 2. If air comes faster it increase volume 3. If air speed increased, behind the air - to the air moving direction, increases air dynamic flow ( suction force ) So if you reduces pressure, you material is more gravity based follow, if increased pressure gravity + suction based flow so you say why I paint better with lower pressures, its rule nr2. if you increased pressure and volume and speed, in hot climate your clear coat particles becomes partial dry (not so wet) and on the surface it no flow so much, if you reduce pressure you not drying clear in the air and it flows better. Good bye.

A '51 Chevy pickup NEVER had a, from the factory, "STRAIGHT AXLE". It had a "BEAM AXLE". The only place you'll find a straight axle is an aftermarket piece like on a gasser. And it will be really straight.

The nr95 was a great gun! I hated them at first and the whole hvlp movement until I finally gave it a fair chance and got used to it, I was a die hard Jet 90 user, I absolutely loved it after a while for base especially. I still have a brand new nr95 I bought as a back up and stashed, won’t get rid of it. Personally, I never cared for the lph 400 or w400, they’re just too slow for me. Well made and they do atomize nicely but just not for me🤷🏻‍♂️ The plastic air valve inside the Iwata guns bothers me too, the Chinese have copied those guns dozens of times now and have at least made that valve out of brass lol. I think for the $ these guns cost Iwata could do the same. I do agree with you though that the Sata’s are definitely air hogs, definitely not for the guy painting in a garage with a small compressor. They’ve gotten more and more extreme with their pricing over the years also, long gone are the days of new Sata’s for $200 and some change

I am just getting into to painting at 51. I have been restoring motorcycles for about 10 years and always use others to paint my vision and designs. I am now Studying and cataloging everyone's techniques to try them and see what style I can create for myself to produce my standard. This is something I will document and use daily on my Journey in learning to paint. Thanks for sharing this!

Anything but a iwata 400 is good for taping high spots down

Love the show.

Why not primer through the gun?

Been spraying for over 35 years what I have found out is that different clears lay differently I'm a big chromaclear from axalta yes it's a little pricey but you get what you pay for it lays like glass right out of the gun I can spray this stuff out of a Banks 2001 and a cheap harbor freight Black widow and it lays light Glass I love the new iwata ws 400 series 2 gun if you want to spend 800 to 900 bucks it is a awesome clear gun

I have both, Iwata's lays a better finish true, its downfall though is when you have a corner or jam. A SATA will give you the most control allowing fines, its the better all rounder IMHO.

NR95 was a great gun but the nr2000 1.5 sspecifically ( for some reason the 1.5 nozzle was actually smaller than the 1.4 ) was like magic for solvent basecoat. It's still my main gun for metallics to this day. I could not paint with the lph-400 with the orange cap for metallics, or the silver clear cap. The iwata is a better atomizer than Sata, but not better. Sata just has it down when it comes to replicating the factory finish. The DV1 i did not like either.

LPH400 is my favorite. Im rocking a silver cap 1.3. It sprays anything smooth and effortlessly. Metallics no problem if you adjust it right. If I spray at higher pressures I dont go higher than 26-28psi for clear. You can run these higher pressures if needed if you close the fan in some. Its a happier gun at lower pressures. Love the lower overspray. Probably the most versatile gun on the market. Cant beat it👍

I still have my 95 90 and binks #7

Awesome content 😮 TYVM for no bullshit 😮more please 😮

Maybe your Devilbiss DV1 would spray better if you got the DV1-C made for clear rather than the DV1-B basecoat gun like you have. I have all 3 Devilbiss DV1 models. The clear gun I spray clear at 10psi. Will agree my DV1-B sprays mrtallic base better than anything I ever owned, all three guns work great. I use an Iwata Wider 4 1.8mm for surfacer/sealer. Also I use PPS 2.0 cups for three reasons. 1. It speeds up time, 2. Saves me money in lacquer thinner from having to clean out a gravity cup, 3. I can cap and save paint that had just been reduced with no catalyst added. The amount of time they save me, and the amount i save in lacquer thinner which is $23/per gallon now days does not make my paint job more expensive

Send me some of them spray guns to this address . Daniel Shaw 9077 Savannah hwy Norway SC 29113 .i love them satas and develbiss

Trump is my president 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

So if I’m doing that with clear I would be using more pressure right?

What model Wilkerson regulator is that? Thanks

Hello Mr. Ciotti, Have you made the "beyond mosquito wall" book? if so, then I want to say that the book is amazing and thank you for being my teacher back in Margate 2017.

Great video, we need more!

Would you know the paint code to the 1970 SS Nova interior dash /glovebox/black color code and is the windshield cowl the same color code? Just replaced the cowl and want to spray both. Thanks

Sometimes, I just do t have the time ro wait on my lvx... But you waste the same amount of time mixing more paint for your Sata water hose

I agree with you 100 percent. A 1.3 lph with a orange cap is the best gun ever built!!!!

Love the shirt bro

Bad ass . Matrix

Just replaced all the window channel. Do i epoxy and paint then urethane primer it?

Couldn't agree with you more...Sata is total shit in my eyes. And yes I have an NR95 too but the go to gun is an Iwata.

SATA owns all

Love your willingness to teach!!!!! Awesome video.🙌

Love the fact that you give out your hard earned knowledge so freely. Every time I see one of your videos I learn something new, (or unlearn something bad). 👍

Lvx lph good

good painters don’t need a pressure guage, look at the fan and how the paint lays down

That's what I call powerful knowledge right there 👍. That fan looks about 6 inches.

Bad ass 58 , going to be sweet when done

What a surprise you have a Trump shirt on....throw out money, money, money....hopefully you aren't full of SHIT like your idol

that's exactly what I just did change to different channel no time for clown s fu#$@& Trump

Great informative video! Love your honesty. I will definitely be contacting you for some of these products. I always wondered if the whole epoxy primer deal was a myth. In another video you mentioned about the humidity staying on the bare sheet metal and the epoxy not being able to encapsulate that moisture therefore allowing rust to still occur. I’ve run into that issue myself. Totally covered a car in DP90. Did my filler on top of it and sealed over bodywork with DP90 again. It’s been on the car for 15 years and it always garage kept and has rarely ever been wet since. However I live in PA and summers are very humid and I’m noticing a couple of small bumps of filler starting to lift. Your explanation is the only one that makes sense. I always attempt to get the metal worked the very best I can, so my filler is never very thick so I couldn’t understand why this was happening. Next resto I do will get the Clausen for sure. Thanks again and keep this good content coming!

Do you (The Paint Spot) sell the Clausen polyester primers that you recommend? I’ve done lots of paint and body work over the years on my own restorations, and this is the first I’ve heard of it. I too drank the PPG kool aid and was less than happy with the results on more than one occasion. Always thought that I made a mistake somewhere even though I followed the P bulletins to the letter. Clausen will only sell 4 gallons of primer at a time on their website and for a hobby guy like myself, I’ll never need more than a gallon at a time. Love your old school approach to restorations and look forward to more content. Liked and subscribed

THANK YOU FOR THE INFORMATION!! LOVE THE 58

I would love to have you do my paint ... even though it would be about three days drive to get to your shop from where I live ... it would be time well spent, I think ...... 👍

just sub'd due to the great explanation over on Fayes channel

My truck was repainted probably 20 year ago and for the most part it was done well. Some of the rubber trim still has paint on it after all this time. How do I get the paint off the rubber cause it seems like it’s there for good now.

Does this only apply to certain types of trim and paint? I've owned a few cars that have been resprayed and the over spray on the trim appeared to have been absorbed by the old trim and didn't come out no matter how much scratching I did.

Thanks Rick!!! Appreciate you!!

Simple advice, that only makes sense

Thank you

@02:13 That 'pop' sound effect on the comment made my day.

your explanation makes a lot of sense and I didn't figure it would need further clarification from the first time around! but thanks for the additional information and for sharing your knowledge! it is so awesome

Great advice... $4000 for a trim set?!😳😳😳😳 That is a lot of 🐓🐓🐓🐓...

Makes sense, troubles is here in the UK those trims are always hiding plenty of rust 😕