Excellent video. Thank you. I appreciate that you explained the project and all the little details 'this goes here, that goes there and here is why'. Good stuff!
On A 89 trans you ground it to the 4 th. Gear pressure switch and run power out to brake light switch - if it is carborated ? . If FI leave it stock. With the stock 2 wire TCC solinoid. Nothing required just move a wire. Eliminate 3rd wire. This is the easiest way to get the TCC solinoid working, no kits or any other parts. I'm not sure how the earlier two wire switches work but I think that they could work with one side grounded on fourth gear pressure. I have a single wire on my van with the earlier 700r4 for TCC lockup. That is probably grounded through a fourth gear pressure switch. I'm guessing that. I do remember that I just hooked up one wire from the brake light switch, on with pedal released, so it has to be turning on by the fourth gear pressure switch grounding The TCC solinoid. And it shuts off by the brake light switch.
I had a 1998 G30 with a 6.2L diesel (w/700R4) I towed with it a good bit and it really irritated me when the TCC would unlock when you pushed more that like 3/4 throttle. This might have been good practice for a gasoline but the diesel didn't need it. I also wanted lock for long hills in lower gears. I directly wired a switch to force it to lock. It drove fine and I found I could just leave it in lock almost all the time. (This is not good practice on ice or is slippery conditions as it really needs to let go when you push the brake.) But the real issue showed itself about a year later when reverse failed (never used lock in reverse) It turned out that the engineers, in improving efficiency, actually valve off lubrication to bearings that were not being used in 4th(and lock up) but are in lower gears. That meant any time I was in lock in the lower gears I was eating bearings. Finally a seal failed and caused the reverse to fail. I discovered that I could grind a flat spot on one of the valve body spools and keep the lub active. I also discovered that later model trans had this done at the factory. I swapped the 89 van for a 92 which I have to this day and still use the lock almost all the time. Due to the design of the trans it will not lock in first even if the switch is on. I wired a toggle switch on the shift leaver and turn it off when stopping and back on when I reach a cruse. as it bothers me to lock it under hard load. But I lave it in lock when it down and up shifts etc. ( I didn't used any pressure switches) I am trying to figure out if I can do something similar to my 2012 T&C...
I have the 6.5 with the 700r4 and I want it locked for towing like you but you think I could leave it hooked up and just use a ground wire on a switch since the power wire always has power
@@brandonhartzell20 It's been a long time since I wired mine up so you're on your own as to whether you need to feed it power or ground. As I slow down and it gets slow in 2nd I notice that it's locked as it doesn't go to first and unlock but quite slow. My old clutch foot starts searching for a clutch peddle and I remember to switch it out. Also, If I leave it locked on take off and don't really push the accelerator it will switch into 2nd and lock and pull the rpm down lower than I like (lugging territory). I find the "bother" factor of flipping the switch to be very low and to me, I'd make the mod again in a minute.
Mine has 8676358 in big numbers (like 1 inch tall) just above the pan on driv. side. Also on drivers side, to the right of that number is a 2 wire connector
I’ve watched a few of your videos. You are so good at clearly explaining and showing the process involved. Very detailed videos with great camera work. All the issues I’ve been having with my 350 and 700R have been resolved by watching your videos. Thanks man, keep up the awesome work!!
This is one of the best videos I’ve seen on TCC. My case is 0CHM but doesn’t have any pressure ports on the passenger side. Says the transmission is from TBI 5.7 truck. So my next step will be to order the same kit you used. Thanks for a great video. You gained another subscriber today!
Okay that doesn't make any sense! The one wire solenoid is grounded on one side of the coil wire correct? You installed the two wire solenoid and then did exactly the same grounded one of the wires. So why did you install a two wire solenoid if you were going to ground one side of it anyway? Am I missing something?
bro building a 1985 ss 350/700r4 we found a hot wire for for excesseries 30 amp coming from fuse block we taped into always hot running down there when key is on we was told trans was one wire at factory plug ..and grounded can i wire it threw the brake lights like you did in your truck please help thank u
Quick question, why would it stall at a stop light if TCC is not disengaged? shouldn't it be released when coasting and transmission comes out from 4th to 3rd? Great video by the way, loved the relay setup.
I'm watching this because I found a 700R4 and don't know anything about it, nor, have I ever had one before. I do plan to use it , but I want to know as much about it as I can learn before I do use it. I'm hoping you can help me identify which one I have because the ID numbers are missing. If you are interested in helping me, let me know and I'll make a short video on it and perhaps you can help. Let me know, OK?
On my transmission, (1985 w/ Type 4 wiring), that pressure switch only has one prong. However, the one beside it has 2 prongs. Would it be ok to swap them since that one will no longer be used?
I was wondering if your transmission has the cable or or not I know that some do and some don't the 1 I have has the cable. I know the cable is mainly used to control line Pressure Anyway I was just wondering if your transmission has the cable or not
I have the 2 wire solenoid, my question is, if I connect the power side to a manual switch controlled relay, will it only activate when there is enough pressure or when the switch is on?
Another good video man. The brake switch interrupt was necessary because as you begin to slow down from a 4th gear cruise, your clutch would potentially stay locked up and fight you trying to decelerate??? Never thought about all this, but that makes sense. Sitting at a stop light you really shouldn’t need the interrupt from the brake, right? Fourth gear solenoid has already let go and the clutch should be released. Am I missing something? Was nice to see a new video from you man. One of my favorite channels. Clay
thanks! I know... videos had to pause for a while so I could take care of a few things... but I've got a bunch in the hopper, so time to get back to work and get them posted! Thanks for watching!
oh yeah... to answer your question - I've heard both ways are true - some say you HAVE to cut it off, coming out of 4th gear on its own won't un-energize the solenoid. some say you HAVE to shut it off or the engine will stall. that might be another one of those "depends on the model" things. using that handbook I figured out mine was originally connected to a vacuum switch, which cuts off the electrical signal once the vacuum switch goes below a certain vacuum level. most guys I talked with say to wire it through your brake switch. it's easy enough and then there's no doubt. hope that helps!
U wouldn't need the "interrupt" at all... the solenoid is controlled by pressure being in 4th gear.. while in 4th gear and u begin to slow down the pressure will change and disconnect the solenoid... so no need to manually disconnect it..
Excellent video. Thank you. I appreciate that you explained the project and all the little details 'this goes here, that goes there and here is why'. Good stuff!
On A 89 trans you ground it to the 4 th. Gear pressure switch and run power out to brake light switch - if it is carborated ? . If FI leave it stock. With the stock 2 wire TCC solinoid. Nothing required just move a wire. Eliminate 3rd wire. This is the easiest way to get the TCC solinoid working, no kits or any other parts. I'm not sure how the earlier two wire switches work but I think that they could work with one side grounded on fourth gear pressure. I have a single wire on my van with the earlier 700r4 for TCC lockup. That is probably grounded through a fourth gear pressure switch. I'm guessing that. I do remember that I just hooked up one wire from the brake light switch, on with pedal released, so it has to be turning on by the fourth gear pressure switch grounding The TCC solinoid. And it shuts off by the brake light switch.
I had a 1998 G30 with a 6.2L diesel (w/700R4) I towed with it a good bit and it really irritated me when the TCC would unlock when you pushed more that like 3/4 throttle. This might have been good practice for a gasoline but the diesel didn't need it. I also wanted lock for long hills in lower gears. I directly wired a switch to force it to lock. It drove fine and I found I could just leave it in lock almost all the time. (This is not good practice on ice or is slippery conditions as it really needs to let go when you push the brake.) But the real issue showed itself about a year later when reverse failed (never used lock in reverse) It turned out that the engineers, in improving efficiency, actually valve off lubrication to bearings that were not being used in 4th(and lock up) but are in lower gears. That meant any time I was in lock in the lower gears I was eating bearings. Finally a seal failed and caused the reverse to fail. I discovered that I could grind a flat spot on one of the valve body spools and keep the lub active. I also discovered that later model trans had this done at the factory. I swapped the 89 van for a 92 which I have to this day and still use the lock almost all the time. Due to the design of the trans it will not lock in first even if the switch is on. I wired a toggle switch on the shift leaver and turn it off when stopping and back on when I reach a cruse. as it bothers me to lock it under hard load. But I lave it in lock when it down and up shifts etc. ( I didn't used any pressure switches) I am trying to figure out if I can do something similar to my 2012 T&C...
I have the 6.5 with the 700r4 and I want it locked for towing like you but you think I could leave it hooked up and just use a ground wire on a switch since the power wire always has power
@@brandonhartzell20 It's been a long time since I wired mine up so you're on your own as to whether you need to feed it power or ground. As I slow down and it gets slow in 2nd I notice that it's locked as it doesn't go to first and unlock but quite slow. My old clutch foot starts searching for a clutch peddle and I remember to switch it out. Also, If I leave it locked on take off and don't really push the accelerator it will switch into 2nd and lock and pull the rpm down lower than I like (lugging territory). I find the "bother" factor of flipping the switch to be very low and to me, I'd make the mod again in a minute.
Its not a valve body spool it's the regulator valve inside the pump.and yes the later ones came with a flat already ground into it
Mine has 8676358 in big numbers (like 1 inch tall) just above the pan on driv. side. Also on drivers side, to the right of that number is a 2 wire connector
By far the best video I've seen on this! Thank you 😊
Very good video my brother you would be an excellent instructor..
I just checked and I got very lucky! my 1983 Camaro has a two wire solenoid
Hello from Denmark 🇩🇰
You are so good at explaining what to do 🙏 i have a truck very similar to yours... And now i have i working lock up 🙏
Thanks 🙏
I’ve watched a few of your videos. You are so good at clearly explaining and showing the process involved. Very detailed videos with great camera work. All the issues I’ve been having with my 350 and 700R have been resolved by watching your videos. Thanks man, keep up the awesome work!!
This is one of the best videos I’ve seen on TCC. My case is 0CHM but doesn’t have any pressure ports on the passenger side. Says the transmission is from TBI 5.7 truck. So my next step will be to order the same kit you used. Thanks for a great video. You gained another subscriber today!
Trans i just bought has a Transgo hydraulic lockup kit.
Instead of relay couldn't you use a brake light switch with cruise and use the cruise as the cut off?
Thanks for video man
Okay that doesn't make any sense!
The one wire solenoid is grounded on one side of the coil wire correct?
You installed the two wire solenoid and then did exactly the same grounded one of the wires.
So why did you install a two wire solenoid if you were going to ground one side of it anyway?
Am I missing something?
Great video I appreciate the content keep delivering
Appreciate it
Thanks for the video man glad I found it
Perfect videos my man!!
Great job. Keep it up!
Great video mate 🇦🇺👍
bro building a 1985 ss 350/700r4 we found a hot wire for for excesseries 30 amp coming from fuse block we taped into always hot running down there when key is on we was told trans was one wire at factory plug ..and grounded can i wire it threw the brake lights like you did in your truck please help thank u
Quick question, why would it stall at a stop light if TCC is not disengaged? shouldn't it be released when coasting and transmission comes out from 4th to 3rd? Great video by the way, loved the relay setup.
Cool! Thanks for the info
I'm watching this because I found a 700R4 and don't know anything about it, nor, have I ever had one before. I do plan to use it , but I want to know as much about it as I can learn before I do use it.
I'm hoping you can help me identify which one I have because the ID numbers are missing.
If you are interested in helping me, let me know and I'll make a short video on it and perhaps you can help. Let me know, OK?
Isn't there a better way to wire it so you dont have to manually switch it on and off?
Very nice job, great information!!
Great video, if you use your third gear pressure switch, it will lock up in third gear. Also, am I correct?
Does this setup eliminate the constant lock/unlock on the torque converter? Thanks, Charlie
Brilliant..nice one .cool truck too
I just found this video, it is the best one I've seen, do you know the part # for the external pressure switch? The link no longer works,thanks,Rick
it's a Superior K013. I just fixed the link. Thanks for letting me know it wasn't working!
On my transmission, (1985 w/ Type 4 wiring), that pressure switch only has one prong. However, the one beside it has 2 prongs. Would it be ok to swap them since that one will no longer be used?
Another great video.👍
I was wondering if your transmission has the cable or or not I know that some do and some don't the 1 I have has the cable. I know the cable is
mainly used to control line Pressure
Anyway I was just wondering if your transmission has the cable or not
Does this work for the 200R4 as well?
do you know how to wire up a turbo 350c lock up converter?
700r4 transmission lock out
I have the 2 wire solenoid, my question is, if I connect the power side to a manual switch controlled relay, will it only activate when there is enough pressure or when the switch is on?
do you have any info about tcc lockup in th200c?
When you ran th truck without it did you just leave ghe wires going to nothing or leave the plug out?
I just left them disconnected
Another good video man. The brake switch interrupt was necessary because as you begin to slow down from a 4th gear cruise, your clutch would potentially stay locked up and fight you trying to decelerate??? Never thought about all this, but that makes sense. Sitting at a stop light you really shouldn’t need the interrupt from the brake, right? Fourth gear solenoid has already let go and the clutch should be released. Am I missing something? Was nice to see a new video from you man. One of my favorite channels. Clay
thanks! I know... videos had to pause for a while so I could take care of a few things... but I've got a bunch in the hopper, so time to get back to work and get them posted! Thanks for watching!
oh yeah... to answer your question - I've heard both ways are true - some say you HAVE to cut it off, coming out of 4th gear on its own won't un-energize the solenoid. some say you HAVE to shut it off or the engine will stall. that might be another one of those "depends on the model" things. using that handbook I figured out mine was originally connected to a vacuum switch, which cuts off the electrical signal once the vacuum switch goes below a certain vacuum level. most guys I talked with say to wire it through your brake switch. it's easy enough and then there's no doubt. hope that helps!
@@GODSPEEDGarage It sure does. Glad to see you back posting. take care, Clay
U wouldn't need the "interrupt" at all... the solenoid is controlled by pressure being in 4th gear.. while in 4th gear and u begin to slow down the pressure will change and disconnect the solenoid... so no need to manually disconnect it..
Thanks
excellent video...subbed... going to check out your other videos.. thank you