As somone who wants to build a hotrod but never had any exposure to in depth automotive work your videos are extremely helpfull in figuring out how all of these drivetrains parts interact and the nuances of putting parts togheter.
I appreciate you taking the time to write that . When I edit these(especailly the really technical ones), sometimes if feels like they get long and there is not a lot of pazazz. As great as the internet is for learning, it can gloss over a lot stuff ...stuff you could only learn from "an old guy" 20 years ago... guys that could tell you " you are going to wrestle with that transmission... but thats normal." Anyway...so long as they are helping someone... or amusing someone.. i ll keep making them
Back in 1973 I had a 65 impala that the clutch went out. I installed a new clutch and flywheel and put the transmission in while l was on my back in the driveway with it raining. I had the car on drive -on blocks. When I finally finished, as I was sliding out from under the car, I noticed the throw out bearing on the ground still in the box. It took another day to put it back in. lol 😂
duuuuddddeeee ....read it and had that slow motion feeling of "oooohhh fffuuuudddgggge" in my gut. bet it stunk then, but its funny now. best thing to do is laugh
It Drew up easy enough. It will be fine! I've put in many a Trans lying on my back using my Knees and Shins...lol ! Cheers my friend. ...Newk from Kentucky
Your application is exactly what blue Loctite was designed to address. Red requires heating to 500F or a bit more to release. You did good. Reuse of pre ":metric" flywheel and clutch hardware should be fine. That is assuming the correct parts are in place and you aren't building a high rpm scenario. Pre-metric would possibly be the cut off due to introduction of torque to yield processes. That should be thoroughly vague since much of the 80s, 90s and later don't use that process.
pretty sure i used a 10.4 (10 1/2 10 3/8") whatever I had that i got with a pile of parts... that said... when I buy them i like whatever is stock to the engine and flywheel i have... nothing bigger, no racing clutch, no performance clutch, nothing heavy duty... for the way I drive i do not need the "extra holding power" or whatever... a larger clutch disc does not mean a heavier pressure plate spring... but ... in case, i prefer to go simple. and i want to make the clutch operation to be as light duty as possible... traffic is real.
@@betweenthesharksgarage I hear you on that. Just asking as I’m doing the same “using what I have “ it’s a 11” stock style clutch. Just wasn’t sure if the 168 use the 10.4, sometimes this stuff gets confusing. But if one’s not beating in it then everything seems to work out fine
thats the trick... as far as i know most ...but not all...replacement 168 tooth flywheels are drilled for pressure plates for both the 10.5 and 11 inch clutch setups...the 153 only fit the smaller set ups. If the bolt holes line up on the pressure plate you should be good... but there are plenty of different bell housings floating around... so give that a test fit and spin the engine over by hand and make sure that clears @@michaelmarusic8499
I have never though about that until right now… so it might help lining up the clutch splines. But it is susally easier to put the transmission in gear and spin the output shaft because the transmission is often sitting on your chest and you can reach it. The magic trick is getting the little nub into the bearing into the back of the crankshaft. And because it is a bearing there is very little slop … like none. And iif you pull the transmission nis with bolts you could marr the thing and defeat the purpose So to end the long answer…. It might help with the clutch splines…. Like if you had a buddy one could we restore the transmission the other could turn the crank … but for the bearing. … that’s just luck or fortitude…. It s where if a good clean life…. Karma will pay off while you have a transmission sitting on your chest.
I don’t remember I tend to prefer the smaller stock clutches because if you’re gonna drive in traffic, heavy duty racing clutch is just gonna wear out your leg. It depends on what flywheel you get. Watch the video I have on starters that might help determine some of the fly wheel issues First thing I would do is confirm that your fly wheel has both holes for the 10 and 11 inch clutch otherwise that will answer it for you If you don’t have a fly wheel yet, then just buy one with both sets of holes. Then I would just go down to the parts store give them something with the 283 or even just a plain old small block from the 60s that came with a four-speed and ask for a clutch for it. For example, 66 impala if you buy all the stuff for a 66 impala, you should generally be in good shape, get the flywheel, the clutch the starter.
@ thanks a lot, it’s because I’m going to use a hydraulic throw out bearing as well. Which is why I’m trying to figure it out. Have you had any issues with the swap?
I have done this a handful of times before but I’ve never used hydraulic throwout bearing. I have used a hydraulic slave cylinder to push the clutch fork. That’s the set up. I have on my 54 Chevy. But I think that has a lot more to do with making sure that you have the right bell housing area, hydraulic lines to go into the transmission. I personally do not like hydraulic throwout bearing because you have to take the Transmission out to service them.
As somone who wants to build a hotrod but never had any exposure to in depth automotive work your videos are extremely helpfull in figuring out how all of these drivetrains parts interact and the nuances of putting parts togheter.
I appreciate you taking the time to write that . When I edit these(especailly the really technical ones), sometimes if feels like they get long and there is not a lot of pazazz. As great as the internet is for learning, it can gloss over a lot stuff ...stuff you could only learn from "an old guy" 20 years ago... guys that could tell you " you are going to wrestle with that transmission... but thats normal." Anyway...so long as they are helping someone... or amusing someone.. i ll keep making them
Back in 1973 I had a 65 impala that the clutch went out. I installed a new clutch and flywheel and put the transmission in while l was on my back in the driveway with it raining. I had the car on drive -on blocks. When I finally finished, as I was sliding out from under the car, I noticed the throw out bearing on the ground still in the box. It took another day to put it back in. lol 😂
duuuuddddeeee ....read it and had that slow motion feeling of "oooohhh fffuuuudddgggge" in my gut. bet it stunk then, but its funny now. best thing to do is laugh
It Drew up easy enough. It will be fine! I've put in many a Trans lying on my back using my Knees and Shins...lol ! Cheers my friend. ...Newk from Kentucky
For sure helps to hear that from a "Second set of eyes" always that little bit of doubt... lol.. but i am no stranger to screwing up
Nice video, I enjoyed watching it. Good information.
thanks man
Your application is exactly what blue Loctite was designed to address. Red requires heating to 500F or a bit more to release. You did good. Reuse of pre ":metric" flywheel and clutch hardware should be fine. That is assuming the correct parts are in place and you aren't building a high rpm scenario. Pre-metric would possibly be the cut off due to introduction of torque to yield processes. That should be thoroughly vague since much of the 80s, 90s and later don't use that process.
thanks for the reassurance and the info for anyone else that stumbles on this
👍🏻great how to! What size clutch did you use?
pretty sure i used a 10.4 (10 1/2 10 3/8") whatever I had that i got with a pile of parts... that said... when I buy them i like whatever is stock to the engine and flywheel i have... nothing bigger, no racing clutch, no performance clutch, nothing heavy duty... for the way I drive i do not need the "extra holding power" or whatever... a larger clutch disc does not mean a heavier pressure plate spring... but ... in case, i prefer to go simple. and i want to make the clutch operation to be as light duty as possible... traffic is real.
@@betweenthesharksgarage I hear you on that. Just asking as I’m doing the same “using what I have “ it’s a 11” stock style clutch. Just wasn’t sure if the 168 use the 10.4, sometimes this stuff gets confusing. But if one’s not beating in it then everything seems to work out fine
thats the trick... as far as i know most ...but not all...replacement 168 tooth flywheels are drilled for pressure plates for both the 10.5 and 11 inch clutch setups...the 153 only fit the smaller set ups. If the bolt holes line up on the pressure plate you should be good... but there are plenty of different bell housings floating around... so give that a test fit and spin the engine over by hand and make sure that clears @@michaelmarusic8499
Just curious, if it doesnt line up, can you use a socket on the crankshaft bolt and turn the engine until it lines up?
I have never though about that until right now… so it might help lining up the clutch splines. But it is susally easier to put the transmission in gear and spin the output shaft because the transmission is often sitting on your chest and you can reach it.
The magic trick is getting the little nub into the bearing into the back of the crankshaft. And because it is a bearing there is very little slop … like none. And iif you pull the transmission nis with bolts you could marr the thing and defeat the purpose
So to end the long answer…. It might help with the clutch splines…. Like if you had a buddy one could we restore the transmission the other could turn the crank … but for the bearing. … that’s just luck or fortitude…. It s where if a good clean life…. Karma will pay off while you have a transmission sitting on your chest.
What size clutch did you use? Part #
I have 67 sbc 283 with a Muncie m20 that I’m trying to connect
I don’t remember I tend to prefer the smaller stock clutches because if you’re gonna drive in traffic, heavy duty racing clutch is just gonna wear out your leg.
It depends on what flywheel you get.
Watch the video I have on starters that might help determine some of the fly wheel issues
First thing I would do is confirm that your fly wheel has both holes for the 10 and 11 inch clutch otherwise that will answer it for you
If you don’t have a fly wheel yet, then just buy one with both sets of holes.
Then I would just go down to the parts store give them something with the 283 or even just a plain old small block from the 60s that came with a four-speed and ask for a clutch for it.
For example, 66 impala if you buy all the stuff for a 66 impala, you should generally be in good shape, get the flywheel, the clutch the starter.
@ thanks a lot, it’s because I’m going to use a hydraulic throw out bearing as well. Which is why I’m trying to figure it out. Have you had any issues with the swap?
I have done this a handful of times before but I’ve never used hydraulic throwout bearing. I have used a hydraulic slave cylinder to push the clutch fork. That’s the set up. I have on my 54 Chevy. But I think that has a lot more to do with making sure that you have the right bell housing area, hydraulic lines to go into the transmission.
I personally do not like hydraulic throwout bearing because you have to take the Transmission out to service them.
@ what kind of setup did you use? And did you do any fab work? Do you have the part number for the slave?