Hello sir nice job...I'm from Greece and I want to do the same thing on my drumset but...I can't found this ingredient in Greece who you wrap...is that something like formaika wrap? Thanks very interesting your videos...
Hello and sorry for delay. The wrap comes from Precision Drum Company. In North America, there are a few others who do equally good wrap, and also some cheaper products. I lived in England for 25 years, and as for Europe, there are other suppliers (in fact it used to be said that all wrap came from Italy). But I’m not up on where it’s at, at this moment. I suppose prices may have gone up (like so many other items). Does that help, or were you asking about the adhesive?
Thanks for that! I’ve great memories of Ireland, and have citizenship: having travelled around the south, and one place name I never forget called Clonakilty
@@DrumSolVanIsle Hey....great !.....clon is a great spot ..Noel Redding lived there for 30 years...where in the states are you ? I lived in SF in the late 90’s...ive recorded & toured in the states...looking for forward to my next trip....any idea where I’d get a blue sparkle wrap like the Steward Copelands Tama blue sparkle wrap ? .....I’ve looked all over can’t find a nice dark blue sparkle wrap...Any ideas ?...thanks images.app.goo.gl/uaQqR2qjKKgRzy8A8
HELLO, and I forgot to explain: From my experience, and from where I bought most of my wraps, Sparkle wrap is harder to use It’s possible that a different supplier will disprove me but: The sparkles can be stif, thicker too. And the worst, is actually cutting or trimming, or filing. The sparkles disperse and there was always a poor smell in my experience I used a sparkle professionally many many times: when it dawn on me, I re did the drum and threw that sparkle wrap away. The onyx here is soft, playable, thin, pretty.... And we need a tight fit (never perfect) but snug. I couldn’t get that as good, with sparkle. But you may find-light, playable sparkle. I never did.
For now, I’ve done my best to answer your question: from here [ 1:46 ] in this video, and at [ 7.37 ] in the PART TWO Video. You always need to replace original factory eyelet, and usually cannot use the original badge either: because both simply get destroyed. The process is tough, but any nicks, dings or gouge can be covered completely. Wrap should be supplied with replacement eyelets [of MANY potential sizes]. If not, go online - the eyelets are very cheap, and low shipping too. Please see the 2 timing-points listed, and by all means contact me back if this is not clear. The original eyelet & badge are always a challenge: get under it, tap into it; work the metal sleave to clear it ... P.S. I will be making a follow up [Part Three] video in Spring 2018: which shows the complete kit, with its beautiful Red Onyx Bass Drum; and I’ll answer every question I’ve taken on this subject. Thank you for your interest and support! Matthew
You could have made the video another 15 minutes longer with one of your lengthy explanations of how to protect the inside of the drum shell from clap damage had you bothered. Also why not remove the metal grommet before removing the covering so you wouldn't have to hack it up like that? The old covering might even then have had a bit of resale value, making the recover job even cheaper ;)
- This video is praised for brevity! - I have no idea what you mean by ‘clap damage’. - By all means buy a used covering yourself, but I’d prefer that viewers DON’T! The manufactured-holes (which of course remain) in it will NOT match to other shells. Good luck nonetheless, to all the people who want to coach me publicly on how to wrap a shell.
I cover that in Part 2. Hopefully viewers realize that Part 2 is available and essential. Tap a nail, from underside outwards, to leave a marker. Progressively size up drill bits... it’s all there. Hope you enjoy it.
There are many wraps and differing ‘wrap packages’. In this video I used Red Onxy, supplied by Precision Drum Company. If a drum wrap has adhesive, then it’s similar to -- adding a dark film to you car windows; IMO it will not work. Mine and Precision’s products are I think the best way. Thanks for comment.
The pre-cut wrap for my 14x14 floor tom arrived from Precision at 14.5". Should I cut that down to 13" so there's a half inch of just wood at the top and bottom as it appears you have here? Should it have just arrived at 13"? I ordered pre-cut to not have to monkey with that. And the tape you have at the top and bottom I'm just guessing comes down 1/2" on the outside. Is there right? Thank you very much for your video. I'd seen some others that used just rug tape on each end of the wrap and others that just held down the wrap with clamps and relied on the hardware to hold in the wrap. But seeing your details gives me more confidence to go ahead with the adhesive.
Hello! And that is a good question, which I can answer here (but without the measurements, of o can leave those to you. Firstly, Precision has (had) a different method for bearing edges than I showed in my video. They always suggested oversized wrap, both ends, and instructed user to use a file, and blend the wrap, as an extension of the bearing. I never liked that at all. I measured in advance, by measuring the original wrap, and placed the order for that: and the guy at Pre. would sort of say “you will regret it”. But I didn’t: I can invent and employ perfectionist methods .... measuring and predicting the roll, so it doesn’t go off. Prec. wants to prevent an uneven roll, by giving you wider than needed, and leaving you to file down. But it was always too close to bearing and never worked for me. I took their method, and adapted it for what I think is the better. For your measurements: you should use a long straight edge, whenever you go to cut, and a large pro guillotine would be best. It doesn’t have to be like building an airplane: there is an error tolerance throughout: but that tolerance -is your moment, your call. No one ever gets it perfect: but getting close helps: once, and however you finish, then imagine the drums on a dark stage, with a few stage lights: no one will ever know, what may be in your head. Know what, there was a mistake on one of my videoed drums, and believe me know one will ever know .... except :) Keep in touch if I can help further.
I think you are correct, but to clarify: I try to measure the original wrap. So if your order is larger, the measure the original: manufacturer wrap, go to piece, and use a long 1 meter plus straight metal ruler or guillotine, to (if you want to follow me) have as near as possible a pice of wrap, to the piece you removed from the drum. If the roll goes a bit wrong, then Pre. gets the points, they get the prediction. If your “roll” goes well, and is out too, then the drum head will cover it .... and the bearing edge is well well clear. Matt
Thanks for your question. In this video I’ve used Red Onxy wrap, which was supplied to me by Precision Drum Company for a lesson I did at Drumeo. Having tried and seen other options, I like the wrap products which Precision supplies, and I believe their pricing is good.
Thanks for writing but - there is no need for a heat gun, on these Pearl Exports. All right? If you watch the video, you will see that the manufacturer used a very minimal amount of adhesive. For Pearl Export shells as pictured, just peal. No excessive heat: no smell, no overheated or extruded shell, no burnt skin or appendage etc. That’s why Pearl Export is so great here. However (and as I’ve said,) if it were Tama, Ludwig, Rogers, etc then always prepare to use a heat gun. 30$ at Lowes: got one, didn’t need it. My advise is - first determine how easy it will be, before using a heat gun: and in this (video) case there is NO need for a heat gun. I pulled it off by hand. If user finds adhesive in 90-100% of lining, and it won’t pull off: then use a gun in A WELL VENTILATED area, and be careful of the heat which is produced, and be careful not to blow a fuse....
Hi, yes. At the time of making video, I learned that manufacturers can use their large tooling systems, to pinch, spin and glue. Some companies likely decide, that - what you see here from Pearl - is cheap. I did not enjoy, the heat gun stage in past: as I implied inc. very hot, near skin. But heat gun is a MUST for anyone, starting a project. Don’t set off on a Project without one: UNLESS, like this project the user A) determines if HGun is needed, pause B) go out, order HGun, and resume work. If it’s all the same, have one ready: I did, but with these shells, and owing to the original manufacture process, and the removal of lugs, the warp just pulled off. And looking back, that was great! In my experience with HGun, parts of wood can be splintered, removed: as if the manufacturer can prevent you from heating the original off. By mentioning as many scenarios, I hope viewers are well informed. Finally, I hated the smell: thick adhesive & burnt shell, wrap. Ventilation needed. All the best
@@DrumSolVanIsle the thing with the heat guns is many use them incorrectly. They leave it concentrated on one spot for too long, and too close - where the user should actually keep it moving back and forth over the area while it's set to a low-low medium heat. I worked in an auto body repair shop so I know a thing or two about removing adhesives, paint, wraps etc. I've done dozens of rewrap jobs, not just on drum shells, either. I'm not saying your method in the video was wrong, it worked well for you. I was just talking from a safety aspect because let's face it, not everyone is good with a knife, especially if a younger person wants to do a project like this. I just found the heat gun the quickest and easiest, and I had removed all adhesive problem free. If any adhesive was left behind, it sanded right out. That's it, simple. No need to get defensive. In the end you achieved your desired result which is the main thing. Take care.
Yes. I wonder if more often than not now, as companies reduce costs, and machining is more refined: and that lugs hold down a wrap:IF in fact more drums are glued so limited, as the pearl export shells I used. Those had so limited a gluing. It’s as if the machining was SO efficient, that glue was not even needed. So how often is that now?? When I began working on wrapping, I encountered tightly glued drums: owned a heat gun, wore gloves from a fire-stove and got on with ripping it all of. I understand the method of even heat, and it still brings back a nauseous memory. Come to think of it, I did some Premier Shells, which came off easy too.... Luck o the draw. I remember differing thickness, resilience, shall tear away, from all the drums I did, years ago. Then I stumbled on these. You are correct about using a knife: and as I’ve said, I can take NO responsibility for any accidents that may occur as a result of watching this video. But this all takes me to a point I’ve made: if your drum set is new, Hugh quality then don’t tinker with it (if it gets a battle scar) If you come across some Frankenstein shells, why not unify them with wrap, and take them out on a gig, where the risks are higher to retain damage. PS DId you know that this video, was part of a lesson on DRUMEO. I wonder if DRUMEO still lists my name, as an instructor?
I understand you. As the shells get bigger (except Bass Drum) it does get more difficult in my opinion: some disagree as usual; some say “all shell sizes are the same work duty”. As for Bass Drums remember, you have 2 (TWO) pieces supplied by wrap provider. For the set you see in my video, I have wrapped a 20 inch bass drum, but wasn’t able yet to include details. So your bass drums are near-easy, but the larger toms can be troublesome: especially if one goes badly wrong, and the wrap reordering is expensive. Thanks for comment. If you do proceed on so big a kit, have a second kit ready until the wrap-kit is ready.
Hello, and I understand your question. In theory yes, because the fittings lock down the wrap - but at the next stage. However, the wrap which I use is thicker and more tensile than the original pearl wrap [which is flimsy for a reason] and it makes sense a) to get water based adhesive in there first, and as well as b) the fittings, and then c) the seam. I want the wrap strongly allied to the shape of the shell -- when I drill, because drilling will jar, or dislodge any wrap which is not held down properly. So, thin wrap possibly to yes; but the thicker more tensile wrap -- very probably no. Thanks for comment!!
I know what you mean. If you take it slow, the shell can be returned quite close to just wood/ limited glue. Be careful not to pull too many splinter pieces, a few is ok: sometimes in order to remove manufacturers adhesive, the shell tears away: too much, needs a dash of filler, a few splinters = don’t worry. Thanks for contacting.
dude the next bloke who changes this wrap is going to be proper bent out of shape with you useing that blue peter sticky back plastic,,,looks good thou
@@DrumSolVanIsle what i mean fellow is you covered all your wrap in sticky,,,making it all sticky back,,,you only needed to overlap and join a 2 ins seam,,,i thought you may have took a good lesson from the pro who put the first wrap on,,,,love to see a video of you a year later trying to get your own wrap off that there shall you gone and put it on
The original manufacturer wrap was placed on the drum by ‘machinery’ at Pearl. Manufacturing facilities as such, are for large companies, not home hobbyists, obviously. I don’t agree with you about the “2 inch seam”: have you tried the idea, or is it more of a concept? To my humble knowledge, home-hobbyists can’t get the taught, tightness required to: a) limit the adhesive use YET b) maintain a good sound.
I prefer to use water based contact cement: the solvent based version is more aggressive, it’s not healthy to breath, but it is however MORE common in this field. I’ve noticed 2 adverse effects from the solvent based cement: i) staining from behind on a white pearl wrap, and ii) a contracting or curling effect as the wrap’s polymer is shrunk by reaction. I don’t use a 16 inch floor tom: the 13 pictured here is my floor tom, but it’s possible that the user will benefit from solvent based - on larger drums. As said, I’ve done the Red Onyx Bass Drum in ‘water based’. If you or others want to see how I wrapped the Bass Drum, and how I reconditioned its hoops, then please check my channel back.
Oh ok, thanks for your reply. I was slightly confused because I feel like water is a solvent. I looked at the can of the cement the manufacturer of the wrap I will be using recommended and it listed petroleum naptha, MEK and toluene as VOCs. I will do this in open area then, but good to know, perhaps if I would use a water based if the manufacturer insisted. I was mostly just wondering what brand you used, I am using a brand called Weldwood by DAP
Weldwood by DAP is the most common adhesive used in the USA. I believe the company makes both solvent/ VOC based and a water based. The VOC version has more grip, but if you get ‘a winter’ where you live, indoor use can be thick with odour.
@idiotburns: is your DAP by Weldwood contact cement clear, thick (and high solvent odour)? In Canada, in my region, water based (as I’ve referred) is watery, milky white (w/out odour). Some years ago, I had a tin of DAP which was white, watery milk colour. Hence I suggested DAP could offer both VOC and water based. Viewers should realize that - different territories have differing regulations: and contact cement as a product is open to variations.
Thanks and fair point. I'm inclined to let items sit in a warm room or outdoor during warmer months above 15-17 degrees, to speed any drying. I feel that a hairdryer may expand the wrap. In most circumstances, I can finger-roll any glue that breaches its desired placement; with no residue--especially when using water based.
Hello and thanks for comment. When you add up the material costs, plus the labour costs, then the final price would dissuade many. Because I did the job, I was willing to put more time in, than a service provider would. There are companies who will do the job for you: and I suppose that is worthwhile for a valuable, vintage set, or a valuable set with damage to one drum, where a provider could ‘colour match’.
The original wrapping, on older drum sets was ‘tight’ with pervasive glue. Prepare tools: a heat gun, a hairdryer and a wallpaper spatula. Start with hairdryer, and see if that level of heat softens original glue. Rule 1) avoid heat gun unless needed to loosen glue, as it will affect the shell, 2) avoid pulling splinted chunks of wood with the glued wrap (some splintering is inevitable, but keep to minimum). It’s arduous work (smelly too) but can be done. Then if you like, just follow my video from there. Good luck and thanks to everyone for comments and input!
Hello, from my experience you won’t need to even, it out, unless the gap, or missing area is large. Sure some filler would help, but the wrap, will not show, or expose some ‘cratering’ on the shell. It’s a bit harder to answer this one, but I have been where you are referring, and I did not need to fill and sand. Just wrap over it...
Thanks for getting involved, but really, I don’t seek advice. I’ve explained the ‘rationale’ for each of my methods. Users cannot keep, or reuse wrap: if it was in good condition then why strip it off? If the wrap is in poor condition, why use it again etc etc? Also, the removed pearl wrap is pre-drilled out to pearl specs - if you think about it. Good luck, and sincere regards.
Precision drum company in New York supplied the wrap used here [ 3.21 ]. I prefer their product - but their can be other options, which you are welcome to ask me about here. Thanks for interest!
thanks a lot!, how i do to buy these wrap? i live in Nuevo Laredo, Tamaulipas Mexico. I have a 22 '' bass drum,8'' , 10'' , 12'' and 13' air toms. 16'' floor tom, other 12'' air tom, and i want the wrap you used to rewrap that toms
Suggestion 1: take your time with this. You will need resources [all listed in my Video] and space too. Precision drum company ships all over the world. Think 400USD$s for standard 12, 13, 16 and a Bass Drum; and also add $shipping. Price charts are listed on their website, but telephone sales will talk you through any personal adjustments. Suggestion 2: Larger shells are harder to complete properly; and more likely to have a bulge, or stick down off target. You can do this, but be prepared for a slowdown along the way; and anyone can achieve world class final result Anything more I can do? Just ask here. Thank you from virtualdrummer.net
![How to re-wrap drums: to a beautiful finish [Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FWcGmXLWlJI/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to re-wrap drums: to a beautiful finish [Part 2]](/img/tr.png)
More relevant & updated info here: th-cam.com/video/wT6vkekOwsU/w-d-xo.html . Thanks again for watching!
Your sense of humor and timing are impeccable sir 😂
Hello, and thank you. Here is my newest production, with humour: th-cam.com/video/6Tl8qhkoUo4/w-d-xo.html
Dude,you streesed me just watching this
Hello, thanks for comment! Sorry for any adverse vibes
Hello sir nice job...I'm from Greece and I want to do the same thing on my drumset but...I can't found this ingredient in Greece who you wrap...is that something like formaika wrap? Thanks very interesting your videos...
Hello and sorry for delay. The wrap comes from Precision Drum Company. In North America, there are a few others who do equally good wrap, and also some cheaper products. I lived in England for 25 years, and as for Europe, there are other suppliers (in fact it used to be said that all wrap came from Italy). But I’m not up on where it’s at, at this moment. I suppose prices may have gone up (like so many other items).
Does that help, or were you asking about the adhesive?
What’s the name of the wrap you use I wanna order it
so this wrap prob going to difficult to get off.
Greetings from Ireland.....great job !
Thanks for that! I’ve great memories of Ireland, and have citizenship: having travelled around the south, and one place name I never forget called Clonakilty
@@DrumSolVanIsle Hey....great !.....clon is a great spot ..Noel Redding lived there for 30 years...where in the states are you ? I lived in SF in the late 90’s...ive recorded & toured in the states...looking for forward to my next trip....any idea where I’d get a blue sparkle wrap like the Steward Copelands Tama blue sparkle wrap ? .....I’ve looked all over can’t find a nice dark blue sparkle wrap...Any ideas ?...thanks
images.app.goo.gl/uaQqR2qjKKgRzy8A8
HELLO, and sorry for delay. I will look into that! Great reply!
HELLO, and I forgot to explain:
From my experience, and from where I bought most of my wraps, Sparkle wrap is harder to use
It’s possible that a different supplier will disprove me but:
The sparkles can be stif, thicker too. And the worst, is actually cutting or trimming, or filing. The sparkles disperse and there was always a poor smell in my experience
I used a sparkle professionally many many times: when it dawn on me, I re did the drum and threw that sparkle wrap away.
The onyx here is soft, playable, thin, pretty.... And we need a tight fit (never perfect) but snug.
I couldn’t get that as good, with sparkle. But you may find-light, playable sparkle. I never did.
@@DrumSolVanIsle oh..very interesting..il keep that in mind....thanks
I hope you can show us in a close up the part when you remove the air vent. I want to do the same to change those parts. Best regards bro :)
For now, I’ve done my best to answer your question: from here [ 1:46 ] in this video, and at [ 7.37 ] in the PART TWO Video. You always need to replace original factory eyelet, and usually cannot use the original badge either: because both simply get destroyed. The process is tough, but any nicks, dings or gouge can be covered completely. Wrap should be supplied with replacement eyelets [of MANY potential sizes]. If not, go online - the eyelets are very cheap, and low shipping too.
Please see the 2 timing-points listed, and by all means contact me back if this is not clear. The original eyelet & badge are always a challenge: get under it, tap into it; work the metal sleave to clear it ...
P.S. I will be making a follow up [Part Three] video in Spring 2018: which shows the complete kit, with its beautiful Red Onyx Bass Drum; and I’ll answer every question I’ve taken on this subject.
Thank you for your interest and support! Matthew
You could have made the video another 15 minutes longer with one of your lengthy explanations of how to protect the inside of the drum shell from clap damage had you bothered. Also why not remove the metal grommet before removing the covering so you wouldn't have to hack it up like that? The old covering might even then have had a bit of resale value, making the recover job even cheaper ;)
- This video is praised for brevity!
- I have no idea what you mean by ‘clap damage’.
- By all means buy a used covering yourself, but I’d prefer that viewers DON’T! The manufactured-holes (which of course remain) in it will NOT match to other shells.
Good luck nonetheless, to all the people who want to coach me publicly on how to wrap a shell.
@@DrumSolVanIsle a mere typo dear boy :) 'clamp damage', and hey, you put yourself out there publicly, take constructive criticism on the chin ☺
@@ianwalton7893 you come off as kinda dumb here bro.
I just used car wrap on mine. It came out great, but yours looks better.
dremels work well for the air vents
Hello, at what stage of process, do you mean? Thanks.
Ma786sai
Great but how are new holes to be drilled for refitting lugs??
Cyrus
I cover that in Part 2. Hopefully viewers realize that Part 2 is available and essential. Tap a nail, from underside outwards, to leave a marker. Progressively size up drill bits... it’s all there. Hope you enjoy it.
Do the wraps not have an adhesive pre applied when they are sent to you?
There are many wraps and differing ‘wrap packages’.
In this video I used Red Onxy, supplied by Precision Drum Company.
If a drum wrap has adhesive, then it’s similar to -- adding a dark film to you car windows; IMO it will not work.
Mine and Precision’s products are I think the best way. Thanks for comment.
The pre-cut wrap for my 14x14 floor tom arrived from Precision at 14.5". Should I cut that down to 13" so there's a half inch of just wood at the top and bottom as it appears you have here? Should it have just arrived at 13"? I ordered pre-cut to not have to monkey with that. And the tape you have at the top and bottom I'm just guessing comes down 1/2" on the outside. Is there right?
Thank you very much for your video. I'd seen some others that used just rug tape on each end of the wrap and others that just held down the wrap with clamps and relied on the hardware to hold in the wrap. But seeing your details gives me more confidence to go ahead with the adhesive.
Hello! And that is a good question, which I can answer here (but without the measurements, of o can leave those to you. Firstly, Precision has (had) a different method for bearing edges than I showed in my video. They always suggested oversized wrap, both ends, and instructed user to use a file, and blend the wrap, as an extension of the bearing. I never liked that at all.
I measured in advance, by measuring the original wrap, and placed the order for that: and the guy at Pre. would sort of say “you will regret it”. But I didn’t: I can invent and employ perfectionist methods .... measuring and predicting the roll, so it doesn’t go off.
Prec. wants to prevent an uneven roll, by giving you wider than needed, and leaving you to file down. But it was always too close to bearing and never worked for me. I took their method, and adapted it for what I think is the better.
For your measurements: you should use a long straight edge, whenever you go to cut, and a large pro guillotine would be best. It doesn’t have to be like building an airplane: there is an error tolerance throughout: but that tolerance -is your moment, your call.
No one ever gets it perfect: but getting close helps: once, and however you finish, then imagine the drums on a dark stage, with a few stage lights: no one will ever know, what may be in your head.
Know what, there was a mistake on one of my videoed drums, and believe me know one will ever know .... except :)
Keep in touch if I can help further.
@@DrumSolVanIsle thanks much. To paraphrase, you would recommend applying the wrap w a half inch margin on each end. Have I gleaned correctly?
I think you are correct, but to clarify: I try to measure the original wrap. So if your order is larger, the measure the original: manufacturer wrap, go to piece, and use a long 1 meter plus straight metal ruler or guillotine, to (if you want to follow me) have as near as possible a pice of wrap, to the piece you removed from the drum.
If the roll goes a bit wrong, then Pre. gets the points, they get the prediction.
If your “roll” goes well, and is out too, then the drum head will cover it .... and the bearing edge is well well clear.
Matt
@@DrumSolVanIsle Thanks again Matt.
Info for the wrap please sir
Thanks for your question. In this video I’ve used Red Onxy wrap, which was supplied to me by Precision Drum Company for a lesson I did at Drumeo. Having tried and seen other options, I like the wrap products which Precision supplies, and I believe their pricing is good.
Just use a heat gun or a blow dryer to take the wraps off. Much safer than a knife. Once the adhesive melts, the wrap will be easy to remove
Thanks for writing but - there is no need for a heat gun, on these Pearl Exports. All right?
If you watch the video, you will see that the manufacturer used a very minimal amount of adhesive. For Pearl Export shells as pictured, just peal. No excessive heat: no smell, no overheated or extruded shell, no burnt skin or appendage etc. That’s why Pearl Export is so great here.
However (and as I’ve said,) if it were Tama, Ludwig, Rogers, etc then always prepare to use a heat gun. 30$ at Lowes: got one, didn’t need it.
My advise is - first determine how easy it will be, before using a heat gun: and in this (video) case there is NO need for a heat gun. I pulled it off by hand.
If user finds adhesive in 90-100% of lining, and it won’t pull off: then use a gun in A WELL VENTILATED area, and be careful of the heat which is produced, and be careful not to blow a fuse....
@@DrumSolVanIsle I did it for pearl vision and a Rhythm traveler, the heat gun worked extremely well🤷🏻♂️ each to their own. 🤣
Hi, yes.
At the time of making video, I learned that manufacturers can use their large tooling systems, to pinch, spin and glue.
Some companies likely decide, that - what you see here from Pearl - is cheap.
I did not enjoy, the heat gun stage in past: as I implied inc. very hot, near skin.
But heat gun is a MUST for anyone, starting a project.
Don’t set off on a Project without one: UNLESS, like this project the user A) determines if HGun is needed, pause B) go out, order HGun, and resume work.
If it’s all the same, have one ready: I did, but with these shells, and owing to the original manufacture process, and the removal of lugs, the warp just pulled off. And looking back, that was great!
In my experience with HGun, parts of wood can be splintered, removed: as if the manufacturer can prevent you from heating the original off.
By mentioning as many scenarios, I hope viewers are well informed.
Finally, I hated the smell: thick adhesive & burnt shell, wrap. Ventilation needed.
All the best
@@DrumSolVanIsle the thing with the heat guns is many use them incorrectly. They leave it concentrated on one spot for too long, and too close - where the user should actually keep it moving back and forth over the area while it's set to a low-low medium heat. I worked in an auto body repair shop so I know a thing or two about removing adhesives, paint, wraps etc. I've done dozens of rewrap jobs, not just on drum shells, either.
I'm not saying your method in the video was wrong, it worked well for you. I was just talking from a safety aspect because let's face it, not everyone is good with a knife, especially if a younger person wants to do a project like this. I just found the heat gun the quickest and easiest, and I had removed all adhesive problem free. If any adhesive was left behind, it sanded right out. That's it, simple. No need to get defensive.
In the end you achieved your desired result which is the main thing.
Take care.
Yes.
I wonder if more often than not now, as companies reduce costs, and machining is more refined: and that lugs hold down a wrap:IF in fact more drums are glued so limited, as the pearl export shells I used. Those had so limited a gluing. It’s as if the machining was SO efficient, that glue was not even needed. So how often is that now??
When I began working on wrapping, I encountered tightly glued drums: owned a heat gun, wore gloves from a fire-stove and got on with ripping it all of. I understand the method of even heat, and it still brings back a nauseous memory. Come to think of it, I did some Premier Shells, which came off easy too.... Luck o the draw.
I remember differing thickness, resilience, shall tear away, from all the drums I did, years ago. Then I stumbled on these.
You are correct about using a knife: and as I’ve said, I can take NO responsibility for any accidents that may occur as a result of watching this video.
But this all takes me to a point I’ve made: if your drum set is new, Hugh quality then don’t tinker with it (if it gets a battle scar)
If you come across some Frankenstein shells, why not unify them with wrap, and take them out on a gig, where the risks are higher to retain damage.
PS DId you know that this video, was part of a lesson on DRUMEO. I wonder if DRUMEO still lists my name, as an instructor?
This will suck because I have a 2 22" bass drums a 12" 14" high and mid and 16" 18" floor tom
I understand you. As the shells get bigger (except Bass Drum) it does get more difficult in my opinion: some disagree as usual; some say “all shell sizes are the same work duty”. As for Bass Drums remember, you have 2 (TWO) pieces supplied by wrap provider. For the set you see in my video, I have wrapped a 20 inch bass drum, but wasn’t able yet to include details. So your bass drums are near-easy, but the larger toms can be troublesome: especially if one goes badly wrong, and the wrap reordering is expensive. Thanks for comment. If you do proceed on so big a kit, have a second kit ready until the wrap-kit is ready.
Nice job . Would you have been able to apply the glue on just the edges ( seams ) of new wrap similar to the old wrap you removed ?
Hello, and I understand your question. In theory yes, because the fittings lock down the wrap - but at the next stage. However, the wrap which I use is thicker and more tensile than the original pearl wrap [which is flimsy for a reason] and it makes sense a) to get water based adhesive in there first, and as well as b) the fittings, and then c) the seam. I want the wrap strongly allied to the shape of the shell -- when I drill, because drilling will jar, or dislodge any wrap which is not held down properly.
So, thin wrap possibly to yes; but the thicker more tensile wrap -- very probably no. Thanks for comment!!
Lucky you. My Mapex has glue all over the shell
I know what you mean. If you take it slow, the shell can be returned quite close to just wood/ limited glue. Be careful not to pull too many splinter pieces, a few is ok: sometimes in order to remove manufacturers adhesive, the shell tears away: too much, needs a dash of filler, a few splinters = don’t worry. Thanks for contacting.
dude the next bloke who changes this wrap is going to be proper bent out of shape with you useing that blue peter sticky back plastic,,,looks good thou
Sorry, but I didn’t use sticky back anything
@@DrumSolVanIsle what i mean fellow is you covered all your wrap in sticky,,,making it all sticky back,,,you only needed to overlap and join a 2 ins seam,,,i thought you may have took a good lesson from the pro who put the first wrap on,,,,love to see a video of you a year later trying to get your own wrap off that there shall you gone and put it on
The original manufacturer wrap was placed on the drum by ‘machinery’ at Pearl. Manufacturing facilities as such, are for large companies, not home hobbyists, obviously. I don’t agree with you about the “2 inch seam”: have you tried the idea, or is it more of a concept? To my humble knowledge, home-hobbyists can’t get the taught, tightness required to: a) limit the adhesive use YET b) maintain a good sound.
its tom greens cousin! ( no offence intended lol )
Hi
I’ve had that many times
And I’ve contacted Tom on the subject too
But to this day, I don’t see it
Where did you get that wrap?
Hello, this wrap was cut at Precision Drum Company, as part of a lesson I did at Drumeo.
What brand adhesive is that?
I prefer to use water based contact cement: the solvent based version is more aggressive, it’s not healthy to breath, but it is however MORE common in this field.
I’ve noticed 2 adverse effects from the solvent based cement: i) staining from behind on a white pearl wrap, and ii) a contracting or curling effect as the wrap’s polymer is shrunk by reaction. I don’t use a 16 inch floor tom: the 13 pictured here is my floor tom, but it’s possible that the user will benefit from solvent based - on larger drums.
As said, I’ve done the Red Onyx Bass Drum in ‘water based’. If you or others want to see how I wrapped the Bass Drum, and how I reconditioned its hoops, then please check my channel back.
Oh ok, thanks for your reply. I was slightly confused because I feel like water is a solvent. I looked at the can of the cement the manufacturer of the wrap I will be using recommended and it listed petroleum naptha, MEK and toluene as VOCs. I will do this in open area then, but good to know, perhaps if I would use a water based if the manufacturer insisted. I was mostly just wondering what brand you used, I am using a brand called Weldwood by DAP
Weldwood by DAP is the most common adhesive used in the USA. I believe the company makes both solvent/ VOC based and a water based. The VOC version has more grip, but if you get ‘a winter’ where you live, indoor use can be thick with odour.
@idiotburns: is your DAP by Weldwood contact cement clear, thick (and high solvent odour)?
In Canada, in my region, water based (as I’ve referred) is watery, milky white (w/out odour).
Some years ago, I had a tin of DAP which was white, watery milk colour. Hence I suggested DAP could offer both VOC and water based.
Viewers should realize that - different territories have differing regulations: and contact cement as a product is open to variations.
Good wrap instructional, but the expense of Precision Drum wrap for cheap shells? Its not an old Ludwig or Slingerland set..
Try a hair dryer next time.. thats what I do, makes it so easy when the glue slips by itself :)
Thanks and fair point. I'm inclined to let items sit in a warm room or outdoor during warmer months above 15-17 degrees, to speed any drying. I feel that a hairdryer may expand the wrap. In most circumstances, I can finger-roll any glue that breaches its desired placement; with no residue--especially when using water based.
YES!
THANK YOU! :)
Comment appreciated here!
Tom green with a big fng knife in his mom's laundry room re wrapping his dad's drum's without permission..This is the procedure..
No: multi instrumentalist Matthew Hodgins, produced this video in his own workspace, before appearing on DRUMEO, with shells bought on eBay.
I wish I knew someone that could do this for me
Hello and thanks for comment. When you add up the material costs, plus the labour costs, then the final price would dissuade many. Because I did the job, I was willing to put more time in, than a service provider would. There are companies who will do the job for you: and I suppose that is worthwhile for a valuable, vintage set, or a valuable set with damage to one drum, where a provider could ‘colour match’.
Try that on a vintage Ludwig, and you'll see what I mean, your drums are a piece of cake to re wrap
The original wrapping, on older drum sets was ‘tight’ with pervasive glue. Prepare tools: a heat gun, a hairdryer and a wallpaper spatula. Start with hairdryer, and see if that level of heat softens original glue. Rule 1) avoid heat gun unless needed to loosen glue, as it will affect the shell, 2) avoid pulling splinted chunks of wood with the glued wrap (some splintering is inevitable, but keep to minimum). It’s arduous work (smelly too) but can be done. Then if you like, just follow my video from there. Good luck and thanks to everyone for comments and input!
Hello, from my experience you won’t need to even, it out, unless the gap, or missing area is large. Sure some filler would help, but the wrap, will not show, or expose some ‘cratering’ on the shell. It’s a bit harder to answer this one, but I have been where you are referring, and I did not need to fill and sand. Just wrap over it...
You should take the eyelet out before
Thanks for getting involved, but really, I don’t seek advice. I’ve explained the ‘rationale’ for each of my methods. Users cannot keep, or reuse wrap: if it was in good condition then why strip it off? If the wrap is in poor condition, why use it again etc etc? Also, the removed pearl wrap is pre-drilled out to pearl specs - if you think about it. Good luck, and sincere regards.
Hmmm. Think I'd pay someone else to do it. :)
where you bought that drum wrap?
Precision drum company in New York supplied the wrap used here [ 3.21 ]. I prefer their product - but their can be other options, which you are welcome to ask me about here. Thanks for interest!
thanks a lot!, how i do to buy these wrap? i live in Nuevo Laredo, Tamaulipas Mexico.
I have a 22 '' bass drum,8'' , 10'' , 12'' and 13' air toms. 16'' floor tom, other 12'' air tom, and i want the wrap you used to rewrap that toms
Suggestion 1: take your time with this. You will need resources [all listed in my Video] and space too. Precision drum company ships all over the world. Think 400USD$s for standard 12, 13, 16 and a Bass Drum; and also add $shipping. Price charts are listed on their website, but telephone sales will talk you through any personal adjustments.
Suggestion 2: Larger shells are harder to complete properly; and more likely to have a bulge, or stick down off target. You can do this, but be prepared for a slowdown along the way; and anyone can achieve world class final result
Anything more I can do? Just ask here. Thank you from virtualdrummer.net
muito detalhista