Well this would explain as to why both bearing on the front and rear diff cases were blown, I pressed the cup to bearing as hard as I could and tighten the grub screw. Lesson learned, thank you again for your great build tips!
Thank you !!! Just bough a ZD racing 1/8 and though it was extrem bad quality diff until I saw your video, now with shims it works perfect and very happy !
Thanks mate, I've just blown the rear diff on a brand new DHK Hunter after only the 3rd pack.! I've opened it up & not only was there no grease the ring gear was so slack it was only engaging about a quarter of the way in. I wasn't sure about the amount of lash in the teeth & this vid really helped me.! Thank you, subbed & liked & best wishes from Scotland.! 😜 👍
Very detailed yet simple video, well done! Arrma 6s basher and casual AE racer.... there are many videos out there for the bashing community but not as clean as this one. Thank you.
The set screw is machined with dimple and then hardened. The dimple/cup bites into the flat of the shaft. No need to modify it. And yes use a VERY small amount of Loctite on it, but the cup should do the work and Loctite is not needed.
Hey John, I suppose you could to an extent if you feel like the pinion isn’t far enough into the crown gear. But companies should take into account that mesh when designing the car. Truly what you want to eliminate is that side to side play of the main diff.
hi there, what do u call those 2 circular aluminum on both sides where you put the shims? where can i get it? will it woork for arrma kraton 6s? thanks so much for the informative videos....
They are diff bearing holders. They are Agama parts. If your vehicle doesn’t come with then then they won’t work on it. Most cars are designed with only a single bearing in either side of the diff.
Great video! i learned alot but i noticed one thing. At 3:00 you talked about wanting the bearing holder loose on the bearing... that is not correct. for everything to function correctly the bearing holder should grasp the outer bearing race securely... otherwise the holder will be rubbing against a spinning bearing race and wearing away fast but even more important, it will cause excess friction and heat in the bearing...
With how tight some of them grip the bearing it actually causes the bearing to restrict its ease of spin. For performance in an RC car what I showed was better for me. I realize that some things we do for an RC car aren’t perfectly translated from proper engineering standards. But it’s all about performance for us on the track. Thank you for the comment and insight though! 👍🏼
Most likely diff case is flexing allowing the gears to jump. If no wear count your blessings. Perhaps you can add a shim to ring gear side or on the pinion to tighten up the mesh a little.
One shim just caused my bearing seal to get shreaded to pieces and killed my brand new diff i keep eating diffs no matter what i do im speachless at this point i tried something new and it was looking like it was working before my bearing got nuked
I can't say for certain but perhaps just too overpowered for quality of materials. You can try to shim your gears a little tighter. But it's also possible the bulkhead is wearing out creating flex too.
Well this would explain as to why both bearing on the front and rear diff cases were blown, I pressed the cup to bearing as hard as I could and tighten the grub screw. Lesson learned, thank you again for your great build tips!
sebtarta glad they are useful for you. Thanks for commenting. :-)
Thank you !!! Just bough a ZD racing 1/8 and though it was extrem bad quality diff until I saw your video, now with shims it works perfect and very happy !
Very detailed & well explained. Helps show just what it takes to compete at a higher level. Thanks & keep the great videos coming.
Thanks Michael! I need to populate my TH-cam with a lot more education videos! Glad this was helpful for you!
This video is excellent. You really understand the fundamentals of teaching.
Thanks mate, I've just blown the rear diff on a brand new DHK Hunter after only the 3rd pack.!
I've opened it up & not only was there no grease the ring gear was so slack it was only engaging about a quarter of the way in.
I wasn't sure about the amount of lash in the teeth & this vid really helped me.!
Thank you, subbed & liked & best wishes from Scotland.! 😜 👍
thank you so much ryan for showing us the correct shimming ...salute !
enjoy racing
Very detailed yet simple video, well done! Arrma 6s basher and casual AE racer.... there are many videos out there for the bashing community but not as clean as this one. Thank you.
Seniordaywalker glad you found it helpful! 👍🏼
Excellent video!
Yes thank you for this Bigtime 👊😀
From a new savage owner absolutely amazing 😎
Thank you! Enjoy!
@@RyanLutz by Jove Mr Lutz u the man😎
wow.. very usefull info... thanks
Glad it was helpful! Enjoy!
Great video!!!
The set screw is machined with dimple and then hardened. The dimple/cup bites into the flat of the shaft.
No need to modify it. And yes use a VERY small amount of Loctite on it, but the cup should do the work and Loctite is not needed.
Top tips 👍👍👍👍👍👍
nice work
Thanks for this👍
You are welcome! Glad you found it helpful!
That Agama is nice stuff
Yessir!
Hi Ryan, is there reason why you dont shim from the pinion gear side? I was always wonder that.
Hey John, I suppose you could to an extent if you feel like the pinion isn’t far enough into the crown gear. But companies should take into account that mesh when designing the car. Truly what you want to eliminate is that side to side play of the main diff.
hi there, what do u call those 2 circular aluminum on both sides where you put the shims? where can i get it? will it woork for arrma kraton 6s? thanks so much for the informative videos....
They are diff bearing holders. They are Agama parts. If your vehicle doesn’t come with then then they won’t work on it. Most cars are designed with only a single bearing in either side of the diff.
what about internal gears? do those need to be shimmer manually aswell?
Not usually. Just do as the kit recommends.
so that is why my RC diff kept stripping! thanks
Great video! i learned alot but i noticed one thing. At 3:00 you talked about wanting the bearing holder loose on the bearing... that is not correct. for everything to function correctly the bearing holder should grasp the outer bearing race securely... otherwise the holder will be rubbing against a spinning bearing race and wearing away fast but even more important, it will cause excess friction and heat in the bearing...
With how tight some of them grip the bearing it actually causes the bearing to restrict its ease of spin.
For performance in an RC car what I showed was better for me. I realize that some things we do for an RC car aren’t perfectly translated from proper engineering standards. But it’s all about performance for us on the track.
Thank you for the comment and insight though! 👍🏼
👍🏼
Sudden accleration backwards causes clicking in the gears please help im a noob ive opened both diffs no stripping that i can see
Most likely diff case is flexing allowing the gears to jump. If no wear count your blessings. Perhaps you can add a shim to ring gear side or on the pinion to tighten up the mesh a little.
@@RyanLutz i tried washers but they were to big ill have to shimm thanks for the quick reply bro 🤙
One shim just caused my bearing seal to get shreaded to pieces and killed my brand new diff i keep eating diffs no matter what i do im speachless at this point i tried something new and it was looking like it was working before my bearing got nuked
What vehicle do you have?
I have a Kraton 4s and I keep eating pinion diff gears do u know y
I can't say for certain but perhaps just too overpowered for quality of materials. You can try to shim your gears a little tighter. But it's also possible the bulkhead is wearing out creating flex too.
Ryan Lutz should I just run it on 3s and shim it up
Daniel Puris id do what the manual suggests. But shimming wouldn’t hurt.
Ryan Lutz well it’s supposed to run on 3-4s
So the gear mesh doesn't matter. You just randomly shim till the slops out huh...
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