The live demonstration, in particular, accompanied by interpretive commentary, is invaluable. Thanks for taking the time, and for communicating clearly.
Ahmed. Wow! I had to watch this one twice. Amazing all the things happening when we run our vehicles. Also amazing how you are able to look at the data to diagnose issues and what the numbers mean. Its great that you explain how all of this work. Thank You.
This is actually great information because I feel like one of my cars has a leaking injector but it's not throwing up any codes and the car runs perfectly fine. I can use those techniques you just taught me to check if one of them is actually leaking. As I said in one of my previous posts I'm a mechanic but I specialize more in suspension work. And I don't just deal with Toyota's I deal with all kinds of cars. This is why I love your channel because you go into detail on things that I can learn use to better diagnose issues.
Thank you for the amazing videos! These video has definitely reduced troubleshooting time for my DYI work and increase the longevity of my FR-S and 2 Scion tCs. Keep up the great content.
Good that I found this video! On my 2010 Acura, LTFT is about +2.5 and STFT is +5/6 and it seemed that system was adding a bit of fuel which indicate a "lean condition". After listening to what you have said "this isn't an issue at all as system is able to compensate..." Just wanted to improve MPG a bit, but I guess I will let it slide and have a better sleep at night :)
Fuel trims can throw you. For example. Watch when your LFT reads 12.5 and your SFT reads -10.5. This can confuse people, but actually, your TOTAL fuel trim is +2.0 or 2.0. The short trim is removing fuel, but the LFT is taking its time to reduce. I've seen this after a repair. The fix was to reset the fuel trims and watch. The engine has about 40K on it and the SFT reads from -7% to +7%, and it stays that way. There's other scenario's, and only by learning how SFT and LFT work with the AFR sensors is it understood. I saw one Ford V10 van that both banks LFT and SFT reading at +25% each for a combined TOTAL Fuel Trim of 50% each bank. This was at idle. As the throttle was opened slowly to 2000 RPM's, LFT's and SFT's settled down with LFT's approximately between 6 to 8% and SFT's approximately between -7 to +7%. At idle, the van shook so bad, I thought the ladders would fall from their roof racks. The cause was a tear in the PCV hose on the bottom of the hose near the port on the throttle body. Ford had an upgrade for this with a thicker hose material. With the the new hose installed, fuel trims came down, no more shaking and all was well in Ford land. The tear wasn't big, only about 1 inch long, but the engine heat and vacuum caused the tear to turn inward toward the inside of the hose. It was that thin! A tech learning about fuel trims needs to work with vehicles that are running good to get a baseline understanding of that system. Disconnect then reconnect a small vacuum hose and watch the readings. I had to learn fuel trims AND the Ford WDS diagnostic system we had before we got the IDS which I understand is still in use. Thankyou for this video.
Learning more about fuel trims. Thank you. Between you and scanner danner and schrodingers box I might get it. Glad you said the part about not having ltft at zero. I guess some people are just lucky to have perfect engines and conditions.
Thanks for another EXCELLENT video & explaining the Long and Short trim levels. After viewing and listening to your analogy, I am fairly certain that it would be a lot less confusing (and not even require an analogy) if Toyota had called short term trim something more accurate like "real time trim data". Same goes for long term trim which, in my opinion. would be MUCH more easily understood if it was referred to as "rolling average trim data".
Educational video... sure could use a scope of some sort. ...... Question.... fixing to buy a new auto....Looking at the Lexus RX350L and the Mazda CX-9. Any pros and cons of each? Appreciate your input' The Mazda is cheaper but that is not the issue. It drives nice and has low torque. The Lexus is comfortable, etc. Appears similar to a Highlander.
Hi! I honestly don’t have experience with the current CX-9 to give a fair comparison but I know the older ones were absolute junk. The Rx350 and highlanders are very good SUVs more focused on reliability than drivability which is where the CX might have the upper hand.
I have watched many videos wanting to learn about fuel trim and all the same, but this video is long but with a better explanation of various situations and scenarios. thanks and thumbs up.👍
Thanks AMD for making these videos. I've always wanted to know how to interpret the readings of my Autel scan tool (other than read and erase codes). After watching your videos, I am starting to understand the data and the reason for them. Please keep up the good work. May the Lord bless you and keep you safe.
Thanks again for such a great video. A quick question. A Toyota Highlander 2013 AWD almost 105k miles , Couple of months ago while i was cleaning MAF sensor and i forgot to connect the connector back to MAF sensor. It tripped a code p0102 mass or volume air flow sensor "A" circuit low. I reconnected the electric connector and reset erase the code with a scan tool. After that i have driven almost 2000 miles The code and check engine light never came back but when i scan with scan tool it shows there is a permanent code p0102. I even tried by changing the new maf sensor but still it is not going away from permanent code section. Any suggestions. I will really appreciate it. Thanks.
I have code p0171 lean bank 1 & P0171 lean bank 1 pending also right now. Scion tC 2006 - maf, air filter and oxygen sensor replaced. My reading (closed circuit) for my 02 sensor (Bank 1) reads at Volt output 0.740 to 8.00(v) My 02b1s1 says n/a? my EQ_RATB1S1 read at 1.002 with rpm at 2800-3000. in idle 02bs1s2 dopped to 0.015 (v) My shorttf1 after warm up in idle 2.6 longft1 is 32.1 Rpm 2800-300 shortft1 moves -3.9 to 1.6 Longft1 stays at about 24% I cant tell if there is a vac leak, 02 is bad, fuel injectors/spark plugs bad or fuel pump. From my readings I cant tell what they mean... vac leak, fuel pump or 02 sensor Any advice? Side note the last 2 days just started with idle issue, hesitant when I press on the gas pedal. My throttle reads at 18% which is where I believe it should be.
Thank you for your videos. Any recommendations of how much grease to put in 2016 4 Runner driveshaft slip joint? I have read 4-5 pumps, or until the slip joint moves, or until grease starts to come out of the slip joint seal. The u joints are straight forward, but the slip joints there is a lot of confusion. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you 🙏
Hi, thank you for the info. what is the difference between the fuel trim and the O2 fuel trim bellow is live data from GDI Engine Toyota TOYOTA Avensis I 2.0i-16V model (AZT220L) VVT-i Engine 1AZ-FSE Year 2001 petrol. What is the difference between short/Long fuel trim and the O2 FT? Short ft 1 -20.34 % Long FT 1 -0.04 % Short ft 2 -14.09 % Long FT 2 -0.04 % --------------------------------------------------- O2FT (bank 1 sensor 1) -20.34 % O2FT (bank 2 sensor 1) -3.94 %
I'm a musician and like automotive diagnostics, how things work can, and typically do, get far more complicated than they needs to be . Thanks for "dumbing it down".... it really helps me to understand the premise you are teaching ... this is a great series and you've helped greatly in my understanding of the workings of my Toyota and car diag. in general.... ps.... love your analogies... they're spot on. Many auto diag teachers either leave out key info or steer their info for professional techs leaving us novices in worse shape than before... appreciative in Idaho
could u do more on reading live data/ or just data in general, i have a Foxwell nt650 elite scan tool that i purchased on ebay of about $170, it has many functions and data but i dont kno wut it all means, thank you
Hi! It does have one in the trans pan and I believe that one is not removable and it’s part of the pan. That pan has 2 plugs one is drain and one overflow
I like to watch diagnostic vids for curiosity and always see these charts and never knew how it worked now it feels like i put on glasses 🤓 because i was blind. Thanks for teaching this stuff.
Thank you for this video! I had to rewatch the video a few times to get a good understanding, but I was able to find and fix the issue in my 2007 lexus is250 and learned a lot of useful information for future diagnosis. No more check engine light, plus my my LTFT went from 26% to 1% after issue resolved and I'm happy with my fuel efficiency now. You're the best man keep doing what you're doing!
What version of Techstream are you using? I'm having trouble with V 12.10.019 displaying the Data List for Engine and ECT Live on a 2010 ES350 and a 2010 RX450h but it works perfectly with a 1998 ES300. It simply won't connect with the Engine module live data but works with all the other modules. Also, thank you for the detailed information. I've been studying Fuel Trim for the last few months and this has been the most helpful video I found, including your A/F and O2 sensor video.
Hi! I am using the latest version I think 15.30.027. Some of the older versions didn’t work on the newer cars with can also your cable has limitation. Which cable are you using?
I'm supure amazed by how you bring your explanation to everyone ones level of understanding.... I honestly don't know how i vane across your channel but I'm very grateful for coming across your channel and meeting a well educated and full knowledgeable technician like you... You're role model to the car repair industry ❤❤❤❤
Hi! Thanks a lot for your videos. I have a Toyota Highlander 2013 3.5 AWD SE with 104k Miles. While just before coming to a complete stop it revs up around 500 to 400 and and then comes back to normal. Transmission shifts fine on all gears while driving. I will really appreciate it if you have any suggestions. Take care.
@@TheCarCareNut thanks. I tried 2 different throttle bodies . Both throttle bodies are oem toyota. One was new and other one was used taken out of a vehicle with 30k miles. There was no improvement with brand new throttle body but there was a little improvement with used throttle body. It is weird that used throttle body performed better than the new one 🤣😅. But thanks for your suggestions. Also forgive me if am asking too manay questions. Thanks again. You are doing a great work by helping us.
Interesting... try a memory reset. Disconnect the battery for at least 1/2 hour and see if that changes things. Initially the idle will be odd but give it a few days
Great video!!! Was always a little confused about open loop and closed loop but now I fully understand how everything works together. Again, great job and keep up the good work.
as always good information but ur scan tool showed the fuel sensor voltage is not those new systems show the fuel sensor reading the amperage and it change from one amp up or down with mill amps and works opposite to voltage reading that is when is + mill amps that mean taking fuel away and _ is adding fuel. cheeeers
I'm no expert, but as far as I can tell, the voltage, current, and air equivalence ratio (lambda) all seem to show the same pattern. If you plot them, they all look strongly correlated with each other. Maybe there are some details that can be inferred by each of these parameters, but I am not yet aware of this. If you know of some tips, please do share.
I have a 2014 Avalon Ltd. I couldn’t fuel the tank. The gas nozzle would immediately kick off both in automatic or hand held. I took it to Toyota Service. The changed the charcoal canister but it did correct the problem. They changed the gas tank. The only change was that I could fuel it if I held the nozzle out about 3” but not if I put the nozzle in or in automatic mode. I took it back and still waiting for them to repair it. Any ideas?
HI, AGAIN I LEARNED HOW HELPFUL THE TOYOTA SCAN TOOL IN ITS ABILITY TO ENRICH AND LEAN OUT. NOBODY HAS SUCH INFORMATION THAT VALUABLE ON ANY STUDY CASE. THE DATA YOU SHOWED US IS AS CLEAR AS THE SUN LIGHT. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK. THANKS A MILLION, MAY GOD PROTECT AND KEEP YOU.
So back pressure is not covered in the next video. Honestly with Toyota I think I’ve done maybe 2 back pressure tests and it’s not something commonly done. Did you have a specific question about it?
Hi AMD. Thanks for your time and for your explanation about this important topic. I appreciate that. I have question in general. My 2006 outlander's gasoline usage is about 20l/100km. At the same time LTFT + STFT are between absolutely normal parameters ±5-10%. How it's can be possible. I mean regardless the reason it should be some sign of reach/lean condition, yes? Thanks again man!
Hi! So gas mileage is affected by many factors other than rich and lean. Like weight, tires brakes driving style ...etc. let me ask you this. Did the gas mileage drop at some point?
@@TheCarCareNut Probably 3y ago it was about 17l. Now it's 20 or probably more. I'm not sure if I answered your question. 2 mechanics have tried to find reason without success. Thanks God I have Camry as a daily driver. Otherwise burning money it's not my style 😁
Remember that fuel trim is just about maintaining the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1. Unmetered air, problems with sensors, etc will affect it. But if there is a mechanical problem that is introducing a lot of friction, that probably won't affect the air fuel ratio and so checking fuel trim won't help that diagnosis.
@@TheCarCareNut After small accident (rear left bumper) I started having issue with fuelling tank. Every 2-3L fuel gun stoping because of vapors, I guess. And last mechanic also did smoke test on vapor line and changed valve solenoid. Still the same problem. Probably after that bumper accident I noticed increasing 17-20L.
AMD I understand now about fuel trim and how the numbers relate. Excellent video and cutting edge knowledge you're teaching me. I will watch a few times to fully understand. I have a Autel 808 scan tool.I need to understand all the numbers. I now know fuel trim. Keep the info coming about scan tools and how to understand all the info they give please! Thanks my friend. Randy
Thank you for watching Randy and thank you for the feedback. I felt another live data video would be helpful to this series as the data shown in this video is likely 1/10 of the data available
That is a really educational video about fuel trims! My 08 is250 is having P0172, P0175, P0101, it is running rich. Any idea on what could be wrong or what to check? Thanks!
I love the way you explain the technical aspect of engines, parts nd how they work! Great Channel, my friend! I watch all of your videos. I was a mechanic for 37 years on my Dads Tree farm. But now retired and do Mobile Mechanic Service! Thanks for the great info! You are very taltented!
You got a sub and a like for this video. Concise to the point and thoroughly explained without overdoing it. Can't wait to watch more and learn more. Thank you
My STFT is going crazy at higher speeds, maxed out at 35 in the positive, I'm ripping out my hair trying to find the cause. Normal at idle, this is fun. 😐
Great stuff. I love your channel! I have a question about my 2009 Toyota Sienna that has a bit of engine knock or perhaps piston slap when cold. The noise subsides once the engine is at normal operating temperature. I’ve read this may be a characteristic of the 3.5L due to it having ground cam pistons. Is this noise something to be concerned about?
Hi! That’s completely normal for the 3.5L engine and nothing to worry about. I know how you feel when you hear it, sounds terrible but they all do it and it’s not a problem
Hello AMD. superb demonstration ! However during the video it is mentioned "....Idle is an unreliable way for checking fuel trims" and also its mentioned "For Toyotas check fuel trims when warmed up, no load and idling". Would you please clarify these apparently contradictory statements. thank you AMD
Thanks Car Care Nut, I especially like your tip on diagnosing/detecting a faulty Injector depending on whether you execute the Run Rich test or the Run Lean test. Makes lots of sense, thanks again !!
What can cause elevated/high(15%) fuel trims on hot idle only? When cold, everything is perfectly within range. There are no codes btw. Can someone point me in the right direction?
I have a 2013 hylander driving it for couple of hours it started a rough idle at a stop and the sterring was pulsating and radio screen started resetting it is 4 cylinder do you have any ideas it had 80000 miles on it
Dr Ahmed that was a very interesting video seeing how a professional diagnosis technician is able to pin point problems. I start throwing codes with a high mileage vehicle i replace every sensor coils and injectors,looking forward to the catalytic converter diagnosis my rule smell them replace them all along with sensors
Great information! But I do have a question. 2010 Tundra with a 4.6L. I am experiencing high fuel trims at idle. Long terms are 25% and short terms are normal. This is causing a P0430 code for catalyst efficiency that I cannot clear. Cats and sensors have been replaced. Should the LTs be that high at idle with the STs showing normal?
Thank you for the EXCELLENT video. It was very informative. You mentioned "don't chase a 5% fuel trim." I understand the logic behind that. But at what % should one become concerned? I heard somewhere plus or minus 10% long term fuel trim is acceptable. If more than plus or minus 10% long term fuel trim, then the underlying cause of the fuel trim adjustment should be examained. Did you agree?
Hello, what's a normal LTFT to be at? I have a 2000 4runner v6 with the LTFT constantly at -20 at idle. I get sometimes code p0300/ 01/03/05 when check engine light comes on. STFT running around positive/ negative. I know the CO2's were changed with aftermarket ones by the previous owner
I’d much rather work on today’s cars honestly! I remember the first obd2 cars the computers were slow and usually were horrible with diagnosis. The newer ones have a massive amount of data that you can access to see everything and understand what’s going on. And they are super fast with refresh rates! Starting around 2016 and up with the 7 digit trouble codes things got even better as you didn’t have to go digging for information codes which give you more detail on a specific code. More on this when we get to it in this series
@@TheCarCareNut Guess I'm showing my age but back in the 60's there wasn't any OBD system developed yet. No emissions system to speak of except for the PCV valve. Engine diagnostic was basically checking the air, fuel, and spark. Changed plugs and points for tuneups, maybe a distributor cap once in a while. Pretty simple to upkeep your car and no fancy equipment needed...maybe a timing light, tach/dwell meter, pilot shaft, various pullers/compressors, and a torque wrench. Oh yeah and a repair manual for your car...no TH-cam back then 😉 But yeah today it's quicker to diagnose a problem but think of all the additional costs for equipment, training, and expensive parts that you need. The cars today (especially Toyota/Lexus) do last longer, have better emissions, and better gas mileage which is a good thing. I guess there are plus and minuses to both sides.
Today’s technologies are easier with the right tools except the increased security where you have to program sub systems modules that have codes/pins available at the manufacturer severs. Using aftermarket scan tools can clone or bypass that but it can cause permanent damage to the new part and the ecu when it glitches during the process.
My mechanic says I may have a fuel trim issue. Have a continuous P0303 even with new fuel injectors, plugs & coils. Old & new spark plug have/had black cakey build. up. Could you have a fuel trim issue in one cylinder?
This is a long shot if you read this....2001 Toyota avalon, had P0171 and P0174, diagnosis pointed me to fuel system, replaced everything in the fuel tank (pump, regulator, etc), the external filter. The car came alive. now I still have the same codes...but get this. My short term is around 0% somestimes slightly negative, but my LTFT on both banks are 40ish%. I have tried reseting it, clearing DTCs, and driving over several hundred miles and cant seem to get that LTFT to go down, even though the STFT is within +/-5%. How can I crash the fuel maps?
Great video, I recently had my upstream sensor replaced and now my mpg is even lower than it was when check engine light was on. I have a 2010 rx 450h with 175,000 miles. do you have any ideas
Thank you AMD for another wonderful video. With every video is going better and more interesting (complicated). I found oil change suggestion seriously, after watching video about oil consumption. Today I changed oil after 6 months and 5k kilometers. Guy in toyota dealership was confused why I'm asking for oil change just after 5k. 🙏
Thank you for watching my bother. I love service advisors and mechanics who would do the 5k oil changes to their own cars but be confused when customers ask for that.... interesting right?
Techstream question - My friend bough a Toyota 2021 RAV that was flooded. Got a good deal on it so thought he would fix it up. The thing this car did not come with its smart key. He now pings me asking if I can access the cars ECU via techstream. I tried getting his car connected. But since there is no key registered with his key I cannot put the car in "on" mode to make it talk with etc. Is there any way I can talk to the ECU without the registered key on Techstream?
Hi! You can by manually entering the information and just before you connect tap the start button this will wake up certain computers. You won’t be able to reset the smart key system and register new keys unless you have an account and you are a shop. If you are you can get an account at techinfo.Toyota.com but it’s a bit more complicated than just setting up an account and paying for it
Very informative info! I have one question and that is what is considered a normal range for the long term fuel trim? On the example vehicle it is showing that the long term fuel trims are at 14.8 and 11.7 when the vehicle is in closed loop and fully warmed up and the short term trims are nearly 0. My understanding is that since the short trims are staying within a certain range and not jumping crazy high or low that the long term trim numbers are accurate for that vehicle. One video said that anything “+” or “-“ 3 percent for the long term readings is perfectly normal and in optimal running condition. So when should one worry and consider that a problem that needs attention is present? Would it be at 20 percent?
You're Great!! thanks so much. If only Dealers and the Govt. would invest in people who have a propensity for understanding this sort of thing instead of wasting so much money trying to send people to college to "learn" about ridiculous degrees. I considered changing into automotive repair 20 some years ago. With my strong electrical and electronic back ground I really loved this stuff as a shade tree mechanic learning about the emissions and such on my cars. But I did not do it. I really think auto mechanics need some specialization , if it doesn't have it already. The cost of cars and their repairs is too much for our people and economy. We need better groups of technicians working together to solve problems faster. The cars themselves are amazing. Of course we need, maybe a better mix of technology and lessening the demand for continually better emissions and gas mileage.
Hi dear i have a question: My car, Toyota avensis t25 with 1azfse is developing a lack of power and looking live data on diagnosis, I realized that ignition advance always is positive. Maybe a bad knock sensor? And other live data(strange for me) is throttle position with full pedal pressed only get 82% and calculated load almost the same (should be 100% or is normal on Toyota?) Car has new, spark plugs, maf, valvetronic solenoid, voltage regulator, b2s2 lambda.
The demo was not too complicated. the complication that could use some of your strategies is how to do this on the hybrids (e.g 3.3L V6). the issue is that the engine will shut off when we need idle data. driving at a steady slow speed is also not too practical since the hybrid will turn off the engine and run on batteries. dragging the brake-maybe? ideas? thank you
Great, easy to understand video! I have a P0037 code on 2011 Camry. Trims and sensors look fine. Is it possible to unplug the existing sensor from the harness and plug in the new sensor without installing it in the sensor bung to see if it clears the code?
Absolutely love this episode. I am poking into the fuel trim on my 98 and 99 Camry. My Camry is in fuel trim rich condition under idle (about -7%), but they would go back to normal under driving condition. I suspect it may be due to a partially clogged IAC. I wonder if there is standard / reference values under idle for use to compare to.
Thank you for watching! So many factors could bring the fuel trim down but it also could be normal for the age of the car. Let me ask you this, do you have any symptoms?
@@TheCarCareNut No obvious symptoms. The 98 Camry I4 feels lack of acceleration and the fuel trim does respond quickly after I replaced the fuel pressure damper. This may be unrelated and I may be pushing for perfection. The 99 Japan made Camry V6 feels as new.
Hi, thank you for the video, can you please explain AF Lambda - Bank 1 Sensor 1 and and Bank 2 sensor 2 as well as target AF Fuel ratio logic. I am using X-Tool D8 as per your recommendation?
Hello, how about these good videos, a question, I have a Toyota Corolla in the morning when I turn it on the FT shorts go up instead of being negative. I live in a very cold climate where the temperature is always 29 degrees or below, could it be that I have my car?
What would LTFT be on 010 Scion? Replaced the pump and filter couple weeks ago but still around 9.8-10 ? It was 25-35 😢 no codes but will it come down anymore?
Hi thank you for amazing video! I have a question about the Engine Air Filter. I have 2014 toyota venza. I just bought and used the STP Premium Engine Air Filter (from Autozone). I just realized that this air filter has the oil in the filter. Therefore, I took it off and replace with the other air filter (air filter without oil). I’m very worry about the oil in the air filter. Will the oil from the air filter damage my vehicle (engine, mass air flow sensor, intake, etc)? I just drove with the STP premium air filter about 25 miles. Thank you so much!
So my lexus es350 2016 shows 17 and 14 on the long term fuel trim and the numbers goes down to 9 when I give it some gas which Indicate vaccum leak However I smoked the entire intake mainfold and found nothing So are the long term numbers normal or something else is wrong with my car?
What the best way to reset fuel trims on a 21 4Runner the long term and short term fuel trim memory I try unplugging my battery and removing ecu my fuel trims not resetting is that software the only way to reset trims.
This has me thinking my injectors are very dirty. That my conclusion after watching the last 15 minutes. If i cannot find a vacum leak, and i have sprayed ether everywhere i could!
Beside the carestream toy software diagnostic; Is there any other diagnostic i can use? Toy carestream is expensive for the DYI. you're advice is greatly appreciated... thanks
Hi Jose! So I’m trying to find a good budget friendly scan tool for DIY that has good capabilities. When I find one that passes the tests I will post a review. The Carista is good for owners but doesn’t have all the diagnostic features for repair
@@TheCarCareNut Can't wait to see what you find. After quite a bit of comparing OBD scan tools, I currently have the BlueDriver and MX+. If you have questions about them let me know. I'm curious about other less-known options as well. It's not easy finding the perfect tool, if it even exists. I'm just really not a fan of the subscription models that many products tend towards lately (for good financial reasons).
@fizout I want to find a scan tool that gives you good capabilities for a reasonable cost. Sure you can buy a $3000 scan tool that can do everything or get techstream for $495 plus almost $3000 every year for subscription but a diy car owner can’t pay that just to fix a car every once in a while. There has to be a scan tool out there that can do enough to make it worth awhile for diagnosis and I’ll find it one day and review it
@@TheCarCareNut Both the BlueDriver and OBDLink MX+ have gotten a lot of publicity and are great for diyers. They are in the $100 range and for many vehicles have "enhanced diagnostics" meaning manufacturer specific PIDs. As a short summary, I would say BlueDriver is more user-friendly and better for those who want fixes (the Repair Reports in the app are great), while the MX+ is better for the enthusiasts as it is faster thus supports more simultaneous PIDs and it can be used with many third-party software. I just wonder about other hidden scan tool gems out there that haven't gotten similar exposure.
Dear sir your invaluable b le and consideration imfo is very helpful to this old mobile mechanic,now I know I need to pressure check the fuel system ty so very much love Jimmy and daisy dog she's on my business card!!
I have a rich condition with a lean command. 2008 Honda civic 1.8. So having a rich condition, what are some areas that I ca inspect to find out my rich condition. Thank you.
![Short Term and Long Term Fuel Trims Explained [Easily]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IuM53mlOgHs/mqdefault.jpg)
![ผัวเถื่อน - ยูริ โตเกียวมิวสิค [ OFFICIAL MUSIC VIDEO ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/P08ORRVDGl8/mqdefault.jpg)
The live demonstration, in particular, accompanied by interpretive commentary, is invaluable. Thanks for taking the time, and for communicating clearly.
That dog analogy is spot on and is such a great way to explain STFT and LTFT. Well done!
Yes, gives you an image instead of a mystery.
I have always wanted to see someone explain these values in "real time" etc. Great explanation, and I don't even own a Toyota
AMD is a great Human being for us all. God bless this man and his family and all the success they deserve 🙏🏼
Ahmed. Wow! I had to watch this one twice. Amazing all the things happening when we run our vehicles. Also amazing how you are able to look at the data to diagnose issues and what the numbers mean. Its great that you explain how all of this work. Thank You.
This is actually great information because I feel like one of my cars has a leaking injector but it's not throwing up any codes and the car runs perfectly fine. I can use those techniques you just taught me to check if one of them is actually leaking. As I said in one of my previous posts I'm a mechanic but I specialize more in suspension work. And I don't just deal with Toyota's I deal with all kinds of cars. This is why I love your channel because you go into detail on things that I can learn use to better diagnose issues.
Thank you again for the information! I knew some things, but now they are much more clear.
Thank you for the amazing videos! These video has definitely reduced troubleshooting time for my DYI work and increase the longevity of my FR-S and 2 Scion tCs. Keep up the great content.
Good that I found this video! On my 2010 Acura, LTFT is about +2.5 and STFT is +5/6 and it seemed that system was adding a bit of fuel which indicate a "lean condition". After listening to what you have said "this isn't an issue at all as system is able to compensate..." Just wanted to improve MPG a bit, but I guess I will let it slide and have a better sleep at night :)
Fuel trims can throw you. For example. Watch when your LFT reads 12.5 and your SFT reads -10.5. This can confuse people, but actually, your TOTAL fuel trim is +2.0 or 2.0. The short trim is removing fuel, but the LFT is taking its time to reduce. I've seen this after a repair. The fix was to reset the fuel trims and watch. The engine has about 40K on it and the SFT reads from -7% to +7%, and it stays that way. There's other scenario's, and only by learning how SFT and LFT work with the AFR sensors is it understood. I saw one Ford V10 van that both banks LFT and SFT reading at +25% each for a combined TOTAL Fuel Trim of 50% each bank. This was at idle. As the throttle was opened slowly to 2000 RPM's, LFT's and SFT's settled down with LFT's approximately between 6 to 8% and SFT's approximately between -7 to +7%. At idle, the van shook so bad, I thought the ladders would fall from their roof racks. The cause was a tear in the PCV hose on the bottom of the hose near the port on the throttle body. Ford had an upgrade for this with a thicker hose material. With the the new hose installed, fuel trims came down, no more shaking and all was well in Ford land. The tear wasn't big, only about 1 inch long, but the engine heat and vacuum caused the tear to turn inward toward the inside of the hose. It was that thin! A tech learning about fuel trims needs to work with vehicles that are running good to get a baseline understanding of that system. Disconnect then reconnect a small vacuum hose and watch the readings. I had to learn fuel trims AND the Ford WDS diagnostic system we had before we got the IDS which I understand is still in use. Thankyou for this video.
Very well said my brother. Knowing what’s normal is key to knowing how to diagnose.
Learning more about fuel trims. Thank you. Between you and scanner danner and schrodingers box I might get it. Glad you said the part about not having ltft at zero. I guess some people are just lucky to have perfect engines and conditions.
Thanks for another EXCELLENT video & explaining the Long and Short trim levels. After viewing and listening to your analogy, I am fairly certain that it would be a lot less confusing (and not even require an analogy) if Toyota had called short term trim something more accurate like "real time trim data". Same goes for long term trim which, in my opinion. would be MUCH more easily understood if it was referred to as "rolling average trim data".
Educational video... sure could use a scope of some sort. ...... Question.... fixing to buy a new auto....Looking at the Lexus RX350L and the Mazda CX-9. Any pros and cons of each? Appreciate your input'
The Mazda is cheaper but that is not the issue. It drives nice and has low torque. The Lexus is comfortable, etc. Appears similar to a Highlander.
Hi! I honestly don’t have experience with the current CX-9 to give a fair comparison but I know the older ones were absolute junk. The Rx350 and highlanders are very good SUVs more focused on reliability than drivability which is where the CX might have the upper hand.
I have watched many videos wanting to learn about fuel trim and all the same, but this video is long but with a better explanation of various situations and scenarios.
thanks and thumbs up.👍
Thanks AMD for making these videos. I've always wanted to know how to interpret the readings of my Autel scan tool (other than read and erase codes). After watching your videos, I am starting to understand the data and the reason for them. Please keep up the good work. May the Lord bless you and keep you safe.
hes helped me alot too
Thanks again for such a great video. A quick question. A Toyota Highlander 2013 AWD almost 105k miles , Couple of months ago while i was cleaning MAF sensor and i forgot to connect the connector back to MAF sensor. It tripped a code p0102 mass or volume air flow sensor "A" circuit low. I reconnected the electric connector and reset erase the code with a scan tool. After that i have driven almost 2000 miles The code and check engine light never came back but when i scan with scan tool it shows there is a permanent code p0102. I even tried by changing the new maf sensor but still it is not going away from permanent code section. Any suggestions. I will really appreciate it. Thanks.
Hi! The permanent fault is not an issue. It will go on its own after some time. Don’t worry about it
If only everyone was a teacher at heart like you are sir, this world would be a better place.
Great video well explained. Please show a video on live screen when you have a bad wideband or a bad o2 sensor.
I have code p0171 lean bank 1 & P0171 lean bank 1 pending also right now. Scion tC 2006 - maf, air filter and oxygen sensor replaced. My reading (closed circuit) for my 02 sensor (Bank 1) reads at Volt output 0.740 to 8.00(v) My 02b1s1 says n/a? my EQ_RATB1S1 read at 1.002 with rpm at 2800-3000. in idle 02bs1s2 dopped to 0.015 (v)
My shorttf1 after warm up in idle 2.6 longft1 is 32.1
Rpm 2800-300 shortft1 moves -3.9 to 1.6 Longft1 stays at about 24%
I cant tell if there is a vac leak, 02 is bad, fuel injectors/spark plugs bad or fuel pump. From my readings I cant tell what they mean... vac leak, fuel pump or 02 sensor Any advice?
Side note the last 2 days just started with idle issue, hesitant when I press on the gas pedal. My throttle reads at 18% which is where I believe it should be.
Thank you for your videos. Any recommendations of how much grease to put in 2016 4 Runner driveshaft slip joint? I have read 4-5 pumps, or until the slip joint moves, or until grease starts to come out of the slip joint seal. The u joints are straight forward, but the slip joints there is a lot of confusion. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you 🙏
Hi! Until grease comes out
Hi, thank you for the info. what is the difference between the fuel trim and the O2 fuel trim bellow is live data from GDI Engine Toyota
TOYOTA Avensis I 2.0i-16V model (AZT220L) VVT-i Engine 1AZ-FSE Year 2001 petrol.
What is the difference between short/Long fuel trim and the O2 FT?
Short ft 1 -20.34 %
Long FT 1 -0.04 %
Short ft 2 -14.09 %
Long FT 2 -0.04 %
---------------------------------------------------
O2FT (bank 1 sensor 1) -20.34 %
O2FT (bank 2 sensor 1) -3.94 %
Thanks for your orientation, could you talk about oil based in natural gas , like Penzoil here in 🇺🇸, vs convencional oil made from petroleum?
I'm a musician and like automotive diagnostics, how things work can, and typically do, get far more complicated than they needs to be . Thanks for "dumbing it down".... it really helps me to understand the premise you are teaching ... this is a great series and you've helped greatly in my understanding of the workings of my Toyota and car diag. in general.... ps.... love your analogies... they're spot on. Many auto diag teachers either leave out key info or steer their info for professional techs leaving us novices in worse shape than before... appreciative in Idaho
could u do more on reading live data/ or just data in general, i have a Foxwell nt650 elite scan tool that i purchased on ebay of about $170, it has many functions and data but i dont kno wut it all means, thank you
I feel like I signed up for a Car Tech Class and they forgot to send me a Tuition Bill! Glad there isn't a test at the end.
first
Do you know if Tacomo 2013 4.0L transmission A750F has a overflow tube or is build into the pan? Do you have the part number if there's one?
Hi! It does have one in the trans pan and I believe that one is not removable and it’s part of the pan. That pan has 2 plugs one is drain and one overflow
I like to watch diagnostic vids for curiosity and always see these charts and never knew how it worked now it feels like i put on glasses 🤓 because i was blind. Thanks for teaching this stuff.
Thank you for this video! I had to rewatch the video a few times to get a good understanding, but I was able to find and fix the issue in my 2007 lexus is250 and learned a lot of useful information for future diagnosis. No more check engine light, plus my my LTFT went from 26% to 1% after issue resolved and I'm happy with my fuel efficiency now. You're the best man keep doing what you're doing!
What version of Techstream are you using? I'm having trouble with V 12.10.019 displaying the Data List for Engine and ECT Live on a 2010 ES350 and a 2010 RX450h but it works perfectly with a 1998 ES300. It simply won't connect with the Engine module live data but works with all the other modules.
Also, thank you for the detailed information. I've been studying Fuel Trim for the last few months and this has been the most helpful video I found, including your A/F and O2 sensor video.
Hi! I am using the latest version I think 15.30.027. Some of the older versions didn’t work on the newer cars with can also your cable has limitation. Which cable are you using?
Thank you so much for explaining all this. I’m definitely learning. You’re a very good teacher! 🙏🏻
I'm supure amazed by how you bring your explanation to everyone ones level of understanding.... I honestly don't know how i vane across your channel but I'm very grateful for coming across your channel and meeting a well educated and full knowledgeable technician like you... You're role model to the car repair industry ❤❤❤❤
Hi! Thanks a lot for your videos. I have a Toyota Highlander 2013 3.5 AWD SE with 104k Miles. While just before coming to a complete stop it revs up around 500 to 400 and and then comes back to normal. Transmission shifts fine on all gears while driving. I will really appreciate it if you have any suggestions. Take care.
Hi! I would try to clean the throttle body and see if it improves.
@@TheCarCareNut thanks. I tried 2 different throttle bodies . Both throttle bodies are oem toyota. One was new and other one was used taken out of a vehicle with 30k miles. There was no improvement with brand new throttle body but there was a little improvement with used throttle body. It is weird that used throttle body performed better than the new one 🤣😅. But thanks for your suggestions. Also forgive me if am asking too manay questions. Thanks again. You are doing a great work by helping us.
Interesting... try a memory reset. Disconnect the battery for at least 1/2 hour and see if that changes things. Initially the idle will be odd but give it a few days
Great video!!! Was always a little confused about open loop and closed loop but now I fully understand how everything works together. Again, great job and keep up the good work.
I got a little lost with lean and rich. Is rich mean too much fuel and lean mean less fuel?
Hi Labeeb! So you are correct. Lean is less fuel more air. Rich is more fuel less air
Long term fuel trim at. 14 or 17 is kinda high
These are the best videos as it shares your years of experience with us DIY mechanics that don't fix our fuel systems everyday. Thanks again!
as always good information but ur scan tool showed the fuel sensor voltage is not those new systems show the fuel sensor reading the amperage and it change from one amp up or down with mill amps and works opposite to voltage reading that is when is + mill amps that mean taking fuel away and _ is adding fuel. cheeeers
I'm no expert, but as far as I can tell, the voltage, current, and air equivalence ratio (lambda) all seem to show the same pattern. If you plot them, they all look strongly correlated with each other. Maybe there are some details that can be inferred by each of these parameters, but I am not yet aware of this. If you know of some tips, please do share.
The newer cars show amperage which I don’t like honestly. The semi older ones still showed voltage which I prefer.
great video, precious information how to look into the data. More of this please...
I have a 2014 Avalon Ltd. I couldn’t fuel the tank. The gas nozzle would immediately kick off both in automatic or hand held. I took it to Toyota Service. The changed the charcoal canister but it did correct the problem. They changed the gas tank. The only change was that I could fuel it if I held the nozzle out about 3” but not if I put the nozzle in or in automatic mode. I took it back and still waiting for them to repair it. Any ideas?
Hi! It could be an issue with the vent on the evaporative emission system.
@@TheCarCareNut thanks. I’ll share your response with the Toyota tech.
thank you very much.always looking forward to the next video:please keep them coming
HI, AGAIN I LEARNED HOW HELPFUL THE TOYOTA SCAN TOOL IN ITS ABILITY TO ENRICH AND LEAN OUT. NOBODY HAS SUCH INFORMATION THAT VALUABLE ON ANY STUDY CASE.
THE DATA YOU SHOWED US IS AS CLEAR AS THE SUN LIGHT. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.
THANKS A MILLION, MAY GOD PROTECT AND KEEP YOU.
Can you talk cat back pressure test on next video , how properly read it .
So back pressure is not covered in the next video. Honestly with Toyota I think I’ve done maybe 2 back pressure tests and it’s not something commonly done. Did you have a specific question about it?
Toyota Corolla 2002 japanese fuel trim short term 19.5 long term 19.5 is this narmal
Hi! It’s not. It’s running too lean.
Hi AMD. Thanks for your time and for your explanation about this important topic. I appreciate that.
I have question in general. My 2006 outlander's gasoline usage is about 20l/100km. At the same time LTFT + STFT are between absolutely normal parameters ±5-10%. How it's can be possible. I mean regardless the reason it should be some sign of reach/lean condition, yes?
Thanks again man!
Hi! So gas mileage is affected by many factors other than rich and lean. Like weight, tires brakes driving style ...etc. let me ask you this. Did the gas mileage drop at some point?
@@TheCarCareNut Probably 3y ago it was about 17l. Now it's 20 or probably more. I'm not sure if I answered your question.
2 mechanics have tried to find reason without success. Thanks God I have Camry as a daily driver. Otherwise burning money it's not my style 😁
Remember that fuel trim is just about maintaining the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1. Unmetered air, problems with sensors, etc will affect it. But if there is a mechanical problem that is introducing a lot of friction, that probably won't affect the air fuel ratio and so checking fuel trim won't help that diagnosis.
Do you remember any change to the car when the mileage dropped? Like a specific maintenance or repair?
@@TheCarCareNut After small accident (rear left bumper) I started having issue with fuelling tank. Every 2-3L fuel gun stoping because of vapors, I guess. And last mechanic also did smoke test on vapor line and changed valve solenoid. Still the same problem. Probably after that bumper accident I noticed increasing 17-20L.
excellent as always!!! best automotive educator in yt!!!
HI, YOUR TECHNICAL INFORMATION ARE THE BEST ON TH-cam FOR THE CASE STUDY THANK YOU.HAVE A HAPPY HOLIDAY
AMD
I understand now about fuel trim and how the numbers relate.
Excellent video and cutting edge knowledge you're teaching me.
I will watch a few times to fully understand. I have a Autel 808 scan tool.I need to understand all the numbers. I now know fuel trim. Keep the info coming about scan tools and how to understand all the info they give please! Thanks my friend.
Randy
Thank you for watching Randy and thank you for the feedback. I felt another live data video would be helpful to this series as the data shown in this video is likely 1/10 of the data available
That is a really educational video about fuel trims! My 08 is250 is having P0172, P0175, P0101, it is running rich. Any idea on what could be wrong or what to check? Thanks!
Hi! Clean your mass air flow first.
@@TheCarCareNut I cleaned the MAF, it is all good now! Thank you!
Thanks for the great explanation of engine tests. I am no longer clueless, just old.
Thanks for your help me learning fix my car problems, god bless you and your family
Great Video! Thank you!
I love the way you explain the technical aspect of engines, parts nd how they work! Great Channel, my friend! I watch all of your videos. I was a mechanic for 37 years on my Dads Tree farm. But now retired and do Mobile Mechanic Service! Thanks for the great info! You are very taltented!
You got a sub and a like for this video. Concise to the point and thoroughly explained without overdoing it.
Can't wait to watch more and learn more.
Thank you
Great video, Thanks, Love it!
My STFT is going crazy at higher speeds, maxed out at 35 in the positive, I'm ripping out my hair trying to find the cause. Normal at idle, this is fun. 😐
Great stuff. I love your channel! I have a question about my 2009 Toyota Sienna that has a bit of engine knock or perhaps piston slap when cold. The noise subsides once the engine is at normal operating temperature. I’ve read this may be a characteristic of the 3.5L due to it having ground cam pistons. Is this noise something to be concerned about?
Hi! That’s completely normal for the 3.5L engine and nothing to worry about. I know how you feel when you hear it, sounds terrible but they all do it and it’s not a problem
That’s such a relief to hear, thank you for answering my question!
Hello AMD. superb demonstration !
However during the video it is mentioned "....Idle is an unreliable way for checking fuel trims" and also its mentioned "For Toyotas check fuel trims when warmed up, no load and idling". Would you please clarify these apparently contradictory statements. thank you AMD
Hi! Check fuel trims at idle fully warmed up no load. Checking them while driving is inaccurate
Tks AMD !
Thanks Car Care Nut, I especially like your tip on diagnosing/detecting a faulty Injector depending on whether you execute the Run Rich test or the Run Lean test. Makes lots of sense, thanks again !!
What can cause elevated/high(15%) fuel trims on hot idle only? When cold, everything is perfectly within range. There are no codes btw.
Can someone point me in the right direction?
I have a 2013 hylander driving it for couple of hours it started a rough idle at a stop and the sterring was pulsating and radio screen started resetting it is 4 cylinder do you have any ideas it had 80000 miles on it
Hi! I would get the alternator tested. Could be faulty
Thanks, AMD, your the MAN!!!
I know right he's so amazing such a good lad
Dr Ahmed that was a very interesting video seeing how a professional diagnosis technician is able to pin point problems. I start throwing codes with a high mileage vehicle i replace every sensor coils and injectors,looking forward to the catalytic converter diagnosis my rule smell them replace them all along with sensors
Thank you AMD, I always wonder what is a fuel trim numbers means.
Iv got a p1135 code. Replaced my o2 sensors still not fixed. Trying the smoke test to look for vaccum leaks after church today.
Great information! But I do have a question. 2010 Tundra with a 4.6L. I am experiencing high fuel trims at idle. Long terms are 25% and short terms are normal. This is causing a P0430 code for catalyst efficiency that I cannot clear. Cats and sensors have been replaced. Should the LTs be that high at idle with the STs showing normal?
Thank you for the EXCELLENT video. It was very informative. You mentioned "don't chase a 5% fuel trim." I understand the logic behind that. But at what % should one become concerned? I heard somewhere plus or minus 10% long term fuel trim is acceptable. If more than plus or minus 10% long term fuel trim, then the underlying cause of the fuel trim adjustment should be examained. Did you agree?
I must have good O2 sensors because my Lexus goes from OL to CL on a cold engine withing 10 seconds.
Hello, what's a normal LTFT to be at? I have a 2000 4runner v6 with the LTFT constantly at -20 at idle. I get sometimes code p0300/ 01/03/05 when check engine light comes on. STFT running around positive/ negative. I know the CO2's were changed with aftermarket ones by the previous owner
Awesome!! Let's go back to say the mid to late 1960's...would you rather be a mechanic back then or at the present? 🙂
well maybe after 1996 and before 2005.
back to the 60s . I could work on those cars. Now i just get headaches.
I’d much rather work on today’s cars honestly! I remember the first obd2 cars the computers were slow and usually were horrible with diagnosis. The newer ones have a massive amount of data that you can access to see everything and understand what’s going on. And they are super fast with refresh rates!
Starting around 2016 and up with the 7 digit trouble codes things got even better as you didn’t have to go digging for information codes which give you more detail on a specific code. More on this when we get to it in this series
@@TheCarCareNut Guess I'm showing my age but back in the 60's there wasn't any OBD system developed yet. No emissions system to speak of except for the PCV valve. Engine diagnostic was basically checking the air, fuel, and spark. Changed plugs and points for tuneups, maybe a distributor cap once in a while. Pretty simple to upkeep your car and no fancy equipment needed...maybe a timing light, tach/dwell meter, pilot shaft, various pullers/compressors, and a torque wrench. Oh yeah and a repair manual for your car...no TH-cam back then 😉
But yeah today it's quicker to diagnose a problem but think of all the additional costs for equipment, training, and expensive parts that you need. The cars today (especially Toyota/Lexus) do last longer, have better emissions, and better gas mileage which is a good thing. I guess there are plus and minuses to both sides.
Today’s technologies are easier with the right tools except the increased security where you have to program sub systems modules that have codes/pins available at the manufacturer severs. Using aftermarket scan tools can clone or bypass that but it can cause permanent damage to the new part and the ecu when it glitches during the process.
My mechanic says I may have a fuel trim issue. Have a continuous P0303 even with new fuel injectors, plugs & coils. Old & new spark plug have/had black cakey build. up. Could you have a fuel trim issue in one cylinder?
This is a long shot if you read this....2001 Toyota avalon, had P0171 and P0174, diagnosis pointed me to fuel system, replaced everything in the fuel tank (pump, regulator, etc), the external filter. The car came alive. now I still have the same codes...but get this. My short term is around 0% somestimes slightly negative, but my LTFT on both banks are 40ish%. I have tried reseting it, clearing DTCs, and driving over several hundred miles and cant seem to get that LTFT to go down, even though the STFT is within +/-5%. How can I crash the fuel maps?
Great video, I recently had my upstream sensor replaced and now my mpg is even lower than it was when check engine light was on. I have a 2010 rx 450h with 175,000 miles. do you have any ideas
Thank you AMD for another wonderful video. With every video is going better and more interesting (complicated). I found oil change suggestion seriously, after watching video about oil consumption. Today I changed oil after 6 months and 5k kilometers. Guy in toyota dealership was confused why I'm asking for oil change just after 5k. 🙏
Thank you for watching my bother. I love service advisors and mechanics who would do the 5k oil changes to their own cars but be confused when customers ask for that.... interesting right?
@@TheCarCareNut After oil change I found engine work much more smoothly. I will keep 6 months oil change interval.
Yep! Works like a charm! I always could tell when opening an engine with 10k oil changes abs 5k oil changes. The difference is big
Techstream question - My friend bough a Toyota 2021 RAV that was flooded. Got a good deal on it so thought he would fix it up. The thing this car did not come with its smart key. He now pings me asking if I can access the cars ECU via techstream. I tried getting his car connected. But since there is no key registered with his key I cannot put the car in "on" mode to make it talk with etc. Is there any way I can talk to the ECU without the registered key on Techstream?
Hi! You can by manually entering the information and just before you connect tap the start button this will wake up certain computers. You won’t be able to reset the smart key system and register new keys unless you have an account and you are a shop. If you are you can get an account at techinfo.Toyota.com but it’s a bit more complicated than just setting up an account and paying for it
God bless you. I learnt a lot especially regarding o2 sensor and af sensor. You are now daddy. Lolz
Very informative info! I have one question and that is what is considered a normal range for the long term fuel trim? On the example vehicle it is showing that the long term fuel trims are at 14.8 and 11.7 when the vehicle is in closed loop and fully warmed up and the short term trims are nearly 0. My understanding is that since the short trims are staying within a certain range and not jumping crazy high or low that the long term trim numbers are accurate for that vehicle. One video said that anything “+” or “-“ 3 percent for the long term readings is perfectly normal and in optimal running condition. So when should one worry and consider that a problem that needs attention is present? Would it be at 20 percent?
You're Great!! thanks so much. If only Dealers and the Govt. would invest in people who have a propensity for understanding this sort of thing instead of wasting so much money trying to send people to college to "learn" about ridiculous degrees. I considered changing into automotive repair 20 some years ago. With my strong electrical and electronic back ground I really loved this stuff as a shade tree mechanic learning about the emissions and such on my cars. But I did not do it. I really think auto mechanics need some specialization , if it doesn't have it already. The cost of cars and their repairs is too much for our people and economy. We need better groups of technicians working together to solve problems faster. The cars themselves are amazing. Of course we need, maybe a better mix of technology and lessening the demand for continually better emissions and gas mileage.
Hi dear i have a question:
My car, Toyota avensis t25 with 1azfse is developing a lack of power and looking live data on diagnosis, I realized that ignition advance always is positive. Maybe a bad knock sensor?
And other live data(strange for me) is throttle position with full pedal pressed only get 82% and calculated load almost the same (should be 100% or is normal on Toyota?)
Car has new, spark plugs, maf, valvetronic solenoid, voltage regulator, b2s2 lambda.
The demo was not too complicated. the complication that could use some of your strategies is how to do this on the hybrids (e.g 3.3L V6). the issue is that the engine will shut off when we need idle data. driving at a steady slow speed is also not too practical since the hybrid will turn off the engine and run on batteries. dragging the brake-maybe? ideas? thank you
Great video. As for the misfire counter doesn't it give you a count of misfire per 200 or 1000 cycles?
Great, easy to understand video! I have a P0037 code on 2011 Camry. Trims and sensors look fine. Is it possible to unplug the existing sensor from the harness and plug in the new sensor without installing it in the sensor bung to see if it clears the code?
Absolutely love this episode.
I am poking into the fuel trim on my 98 and 99 Camry. My Camry is in fuel trim rich condition under idle (about -7%), but they would go back to normal under driving condition. I suspect it may be due to a partially clogged IAC. I wonder if there is standard / reference values under idle for use to compare to.
Thank you for watching! So many factors could bring the fuel trim down but it also could be normal for the age of the car. Let me ask you this, do you have any symptoms?
@@TheCarCareNut No obvious symptoms. The 98 Camry I4 feels lack of acceleration and the fuel trim does respond quickly after I replaced the fuel pressure damper. This may be unrelated and I may be pushing for perfection.
The 99 Japan made Camry V6 feels as new.
Honestly I wouldn’t chase after it. Wouldn’t hurt to clean the IAC though
Hi, thank you for the video, can you please explain AF Lambda - Bank 1 Sensor 1 and and Bank 2 sensor 2 as well as target AF Fuel ratio logic. I am using X-Tool D8 as per your recommendation?
Hello, how about these good videos, a question, I have a Toyota Corolla in the morning when I turn it on the FT shorts go up instead of being negative. I live in a very cold climate where the temperature is always 29 degrees or below, could it be that I have my car?
What would LTFT be on 010 Scion? Replaced the pump and filter couple weeks ago but still around 9.8-10 ? It was 25-35 😢 no codes but will it come down anymore?
Thank you so much for all the info on FT,
Very very good video !!! Keep up. 👍
This is the video I was waiting for!!!
Thanks AMD.
What would it mean if LT is reading very rich(-18) and the downstream O2 sensor is reading very lean, and AFS is about 3.2? (03 tacoma 2.7)
Hi thank you for amazing video! I have a question about the Engine Air Filter. I have 2014 toyota venza. I just bought and used the STP Premium Engine Air Filter (from Autozone). I just realized that this air filter has the oil in the filter. Therefore, I took it off and replace with the other air filter (air filter without oil). I’m very worry about the oil in the air filter. Will the oil from the air filter damage my vehicle (engine, mass air flow sensor, intake, etc)? I just drove with the STP premium air filter about 25 miles. Thank you so much!
Hi! Is this a 4 cylinder model?
@@TheCarCareNut Yes, my car is 4 cylinder.
So my lexus es350 2016 shows 17 and 14 on the long term fuel trim and the numbers goes down to 9 when I give it some gas which Indicate vaccum leak
However I smoked the entire intake mainfold and found nothing
So are the long term numbers normal or something else is wrong with my car?
What is AF SENSOR? If its the 02 sensor shouldn't it be 0.1 volts to 0.9 volts?
What the best way to reset fuel trims on a 21 4Runner the long term and short term fuel trim memory I try unplugging my battery and removing ecu my fuel trims not resetting is that software the only way to reset trims.
This has me thinking my injectors are very dirty. That my conclusion after watching the last 15 minutes. If i cannot find a vacum leak, and i have sprayed ether everywhere i could!
Beside the carestream toy software diagnostic; Is there any other diagnostic i can use? Toy carestream is expensive for the DYI. you're advice is greatly appreciated... thanks
Hi Jose! So I’m trying to find a good budget friendly scan tool for DIY that has good capabilities. When I find one that passes the tests I will post a review. The Carista is good for owners but doesn’t have all the diagnostic features for repair
Do some research you might find it on eBay etc
@@TheCarCareNut Can't wait to see what you find. After quite a bit of comparing OBD scan tools, I currently have the BlueDriver and MX+. If you have questions about them let me know. I'm curious about other less-known options as well. It's not easy finding the perfect tool, if it even exists. I'm just really not a fan of the subscription models that many products tend towards lately (for good financial reasons).
@fizout I want to find a scan tool that gives you good capabilities for a reasonable cost. Sure you can buy a $3000 scan tool that can do everything or get techstream for $495 plus almost $3000 every year for subscription but a diy car owner can’t pay that just to fix a car every once in a while. There has to be a scan tool out there that can do enough to make it worth awhile for diagnosis and I’ll find it one day and review it
@@TheCarCareNut Both the BlueDriver and OBDLink MX+ have gotten a lot of publicity and are great for diyers. They are in the $100 range and for many vehicles have "enhanced diagnostics" meaning manufacturer specific PIDs. As a short summary, I would say BlueDriver is more user-friendly and better for those who want fixes (the Repair Reports in the app are great), while the MX+ is better for the enthusiasts as it is faster thus supports more simultaneous PIDs and it can be used with many third-party software. I just wonder about other hidden scan tool gems out there that haven't gotten similar exposure.
Dear sir your invaluable b le and consideration imfo is very helpful to this old mobile mechanic,now I know I need to pressure check the fuel system ty so very much love Jimmy and daisy dog she's on my business card!!
I have a 2GR-FSE with -6.6 LTFT on one bank and 0 on the other. I gave up trying to figure it out. LAMBDA is 1.000 so I guess it is what it is.
you look like John Travolta here lol...btw amazing videos and learnt alot...Thank You AMD
I have a rich condition with a lean command. 2008 Honda civic 1.8. So having a rich condition, what are some areas that I ca inspect to find out my rich condition. Thank you.
Vehicle diag rpt o2ftb1s2 99.15% o2s b1s2 .005 v. 698rpm. 174f temp. Do I have bad o2 sensor. 2uzfe engine