Holy heck man, this video is soooo good. I had a P0420, Toyota said it needed a new catalytic converter, but there were some fishy aspects to the diagnosis. 1) they spent maybe 5 minutes diagnosing it, and 2) the truck only had 96K miles on it... I remembered that I hadn't changed my spark plugs in awhile (at least 60K miles on copper plugs), so I had them change the plugs. The light hasn't been on since I cleared the code after they installed the plugs. Like you, I wanted to know if the catalytic converter was bad, why was it bad? The Toyota tech told me cheap gas, but again I just felt they were reaching for the easy answers. In context, my truck has 96K miles on it, but it's 15 years old. I don't drive it much, only to the grocery store about a mile away. It doesn't even warm up in-route. That combined with well over-due spark plugs tells me (based on your video) that the catalytic converter is probably prematurely worn. This is why I went to Toyota for a diagnosis -- THIS IS WHAT I NEEDED TO KNOW -- but instead they said my catalytic converter on bank 1 was 'non-functional' due to cheap gas and didn't even ask or check my spark plugs in their service history or ask about its driving conditions... It was such a scam, the dealer was, and to think how much you offered here totally for free, I just feel cheated by the dealer. But at least I now have my answers... at least I think I do. Of note, the dealer said it wasn't an exhaust leak because if it was, they'd hear it... You're telling me they had time to pull the code, plug the exhaust, listen, and fill out the paper work in 5 minutes? I don't have to be a mechanic to know they just pulled the code and made up the rest -- so sickening. This was Toyota of Mt. Pleasant, TX for reference.
Did you mention your driving cycle? Did you mention the plugs?? When we pull codes we look at the freeze frame, and ask for compare AF SENDOR or on older cars we compare o2 sensors values. As a toyota tech we only get so much information from the customer.
@@jakemillson7190First, I appreciate all that you do... Not all techs are bad, actually the vast majority are great at what they do, and I respect them greatly... I did not mention my driving habits, until watching this video, I didn't even know it was a contributing factor... I did not mention the plugs, either, until I was told that I either had to pay a diagnostic fee ($120 if I remember) or get the diagnosis for free if I approved and paid for the fix ($2000 if I remember) -- I asked if I HAD to do what they wanted to avoid the diagnosis fee (i.e. replace the catalytic converter) or could I instead use the fee toward new plugs cause I hadn't changed them in awhile. They said I could use the fee toward new plugs, so that's what I did... As an update, I'm at 120K miles now on the same catalytic converters and no check engine light. A combination of new plugs, a couple runs of "Cataclean", Shell only gas (i.e. no more whatever's cheapest), and every time I take it for a short trip, I let it get up to temperature and then almost floor it on a 4-lane wide open highway from about 15mph up to about 60mph... I am not sure what info they'd have from a 'freeze frame' as you call it. My understanding, and you'd know more, is that the computer does a catalytic converter check every so often, and if it fails enough times to meet a criteria, it throws the code. Because of this, I don't think a freeze frame tells you much because it sounds like Toyota knows that a catalytic converter check on a cold engine will fail, but that this would have to happen many, many times in succession for a code to be thrown. It was my driving habits that allowed for this to happen, and if looking at a single freeze frame, it would likely appear as though my catalytic converter was non-functional, but the larger context needed is that the check(s) were done on a cold engine, most likely. It is worth noting that the dealership is well over an hour away with mostly interstate driving between me and them, so when the truck arrived, it was already warm. If they'd looked at current data rather than freeze frame, I think they'd have seen that the catalytic converter was likely fine. Again, you have to remember that it took them all of 5 minutes to diagnose it. I'm to pay $120 for what I can get from AutoZone for free? i.e. someone to read the code and tell me what it means? That's the issue, for me. If they'd spent some time, I'd have been OK with the fee, but I think if they'd spent the time and, when advising to replace an expensive part, rules out everything else, they'd have thought to ask about my driving habits, or the spark plugs, or anything else that they'd have known could have caused the issue. I think in that world, I'd have gotten the answer from them and thus would have felt I'd spent the diagnosis fee wisely rather than waste it.
For a long time I wanted a Toyota mechanic to create their own TH-cam channel hoping for that mechanic to give great advice on how to take care of your own Toyota and not only tell you but also demonstrate how to. I can say that you sir have done that. I'm so thankful and grateful that you decide it to take time out of your day and make videos for us.
Subscribe to both! I like Scotty but I prefer TCCN's lack of click bait or threats of quitting. I hope AMD (TCCN) passes his knowledge as an instructor if he retires from wrenching.
Totally agree with that. What makes him a gem in my book is not only is he knowledgeable but very few are willing to share what they know with others freely.
AMD gives back to the community. Apparently he has a good job and shares his knowledge. Like HVAC guys, most mechanics just look at commissions, not truth and aren't far above the converter thieves mentioned here. I wouldn't doubt if they were the same people.
@@OCgraftedin77 True, I hate to generalize, but I shouldn't be so ecstatitic over the one extremely honest guy I got after half a dozen trying to sell me new $4000 units. This one fixed it same day for under $500 - small, self owned shop, sought customers not commissions.
Another thoroughly detailed video with so much relevant substance that you won't find anywhere else. Toyota/Lexus should have recognition awards for folks like you. 👏
no, every person who watches a video and fixes their own car, is a lost customer for the dealership shops. Dont expect a metal or award from the corporation.
if you have a blower or, even a shopvac you just have to put hose on the exhaust part of the shopvac to get the blow effect, use that. hose it up on your exhaust, seal it, then start spraying soapy water on your exhaust. same as you try to find leak from tire. make sure car is cold though so it wont evaporate right away.
Very informative about P0420. I'll keep in mind about the exhaust leak on my 2005 RAV4 322000+ miles. I kept deleting the P0420 code about almost every 300 miles in the past, but now it's more like 100 miles. Thanks for the great diagnostic tips. 👍
I have a 2000 Corolla with an original 70K with a check engine light on, I went to AutoZone and got a P0420 code. How can I reset the code or cheap fix it without having to replace the CAT. I would appreciate any help.
@pall5114 - I kept getting the annoying P0420 every 100 mi, so I installed a foul plug at the inlet of O2 sensor and then the O2 sensor. Since then the code or CEL hasn't come back for over 8 months. But I don't recommend this method. It's just a temporary and cheap fix. Don't know if you will fail Emissions Inspection in your state if they see that foul plug installed.
@pall5114 - my 2005 RAV4 now has about 341k mi on it. Still runs and has good pick up speed. Best car with Timing Chain that will never need to replace according to Scotty Kilmer 🤔. Can't argue with a mechanic that has 55 yrs of experience...🤓😁.
Also a low quality downstream O2 sensor can also trigger P0420. Happened to my 04 Tundra double cab. Replaced the sensor 2x with cheap made-in-China ones from eBay and the same code keeps popping up after I’ve reset it. Thinking the CC is bad, I got a quote from a muffler shop to replace it for $2k (cat has to come from Toyota dealer they said, no aftermarket units). Too expensive. So I tried one more time, this time using the more expensive Denso OEM sensor. 1.5k miles later, the code has not reappeared. Nothing wrong with the cat. Lesson learned: don’t use cheap, no-name Chinese- made parts. Almost spent a fortune trying to save a buck.
They definitely lied to you. Lol. Well I have a 04 Lexus gs300 and my exhaust manifold with 2 cats cost 4k from Toyota, meanwhile I bought aftermarket for $500 and as you said I used the Denso sensors and haven't had a problem in 15k miles.
This is real world 🌎 instruction brother, not another lecture by a boring professor. I’m not a car guy, but a good teacher like you has made this car topic so interesting!
With COVID-19, the case of stolen Catalytic converter exploding more than 3x in some places. I hope Toyota, especially the hybrid have catalytic converter shields installed from factory. Not just USA, the epidemic of Cat Theft also exploding in UK.
There is no way the O2 sensors are testing how good the cat is working. O2 sensors do not detect CO2. The O2 sensors will only tell the engine computer how much oxygen is before and after the cat and that is how it can detect if the cat is plugged. They only determine if the cat is plugged or not.
WOW! This is probably the most enlightening video - car or otherwise - I have seen in a very long time. Lots and lots of details I didn't know about how the ECU interacts with the converter, how to find an exhaust leak so small that only the converter cares about it, and other things that could have led me in the wrong direction.
I suspect a crack in exhaust pipe on my 07 corolla, where the 4 pipes combine into one. I had forgotten about the exhaust pulses pulling a partial vacuum on the pistons after the exhaust stroke, pulling fresh air into the cat... That explains my 0420 code. I can smell exhaust when I stop for red light with the windows closed and the cabin fan is running....
For me, with my ancient almost 29yr old car, its always been about the exhaust leaks.. sure the answer for most people would be just replace Everything in the whole path, from header ,to flexpipe to cat to resonator to rear pipe to muffler..that would do it, for sure, but im cheap and i happen to like that the original exhaust is still On the car after all this time..LOL however, the damn flanges that the cat attaches to on either side, are not that good...pitted and rough surfaces along with a slight bowing make them no longer flat.. thus gaskets do not seal well. end result besides a crap sounding engine note is fuel/air mix is off...Ironically, I just replaced my cat, which didnt smell but i;d always wondered if it were restricting the power , maybe plugged up.. the new one stunk like a pig and is still almost making me sick... gotta be the leaks at the flanges...the old one had a good seal and no smells..and of course, once i installed it, the retailer wouldnt accept a return..This was an excellent vid and ultra in depth.. loved it!
Me too my buddy has a corolla that has an evap problem I believe it's with the canister but I don't have a smoke machine gotta have that to test evap guys
Hi AMD, As you say, catalytic converter theft is a big problem these days due to the value of the precious metals inside. My neighborhood is so rough they are stealing the tips off the iridium spark plugs ;-).
My favorite part is where we have to drive around to get the readiness monitors ready because it’s beyond ridiculous with a permanent code, the epa says we can’t pass emissions with a check engine light on, but they have zero issues with us wasting time and fuel non stop to in an attempt to get these bs monitors ready.
I'm time to time come back to your videos again. AMD, you said catalytic converter will start to work only on they are fully wormed up. Is catalytic converter temperature related to engine temperature? How we gonna know that catalytic converter is fully wormed up?
Hi Marjan! So when the computer goes into closed loop the catalytic converter have warmed up sufficiently to operate. They warm up rapidly as they essentially have a torch on them. If you’ve seen an engine running without an exhaust manifold you’ll remember the flames that come out. Some models especially the newer ones will show you the temperature of the catalytic converter
It will vary depending on many factors. Usually hybrids get into closed loop rapidly after first start up but the best way to know for sure is to watch the data list
Some people are born natural coaches or teachers. Others can be trained to be good. I believe this man is a born and trained teacher/explainer. Much appreciated.
Just sold my 2015 Toyota Highlander took it to the dealership told them engine is very noise they said that is how 3.5 Toyota engine is didn’t like it gone.
Darn it. I was loading the parts canon already 😂😂. Yeah, even a dirty MAF sensor, 5 minutes fix, can throw the A/F ratio off and the codes will light up the dash. Diagnosis is essential
Avoiding cat thefts by making units harder to cut out reminds me of the following phrase: When running from a bear that is chasing you and your pals you don`t have to be faster than the bear, just faster than the guy next to you. Putting up obstacles will make them look elsewhere.
I bought a 03 sequoia with those codes for Catalyitic converters . Dealer has discontinued the part from what I was told . Aftermarket installed is about 2,000 . The truck was a original owner well kept so imo it was worth the save . The prior owner had a bad radiator and drove it miles to just make it home . Blowing the head gaskets severely. I replaced the engine with a lower mileage used engine . Runs amazing now but I now have theses codes . I think the cats were damaged from the excessive heat and coolant going though the pipe .
Thanks for an informative video! Would you recommend adding one additional form of diagnostics, taking the temp of the Cat before and after to see if it is clogged? I have heard this is a thing, but have never tried it. Thanks for your helpful videos! I have a 2007 4Runner V8 with P0430 (bank 2) codes that trigger every 500 miles or so. I'm assuming I have a bad cat, but really don't want to spend the $$ to replace. Could a bad cat cause or lead to poor gas mileage? I'm getting about 13.5 MPG but would love to get that up to 15-17 MPG. Thanks!
I’ve got a 2008 4Runner with the V8. The exhaust manifolds are notorious for leaking, I would start there, especially since you are only getting the code on one side.
The CAT on my 2008 Prius became suspect after the ECU threw a PO420 on a 9 year old car with 178,000 miles. At first, the light would stay on for a day or two - then turn off. But as time went by, the light would come back on and stay on for longer and longer, until there came a time where it remained on. It took around nine months to get to this point, The engine has always had it's oil changes at 4-5000 miles (full synthetic 5-30) and everything was intact - no exhaust leaks, no misfires, no nothing. This was the first time the CEL came on since I had the car. The dealership wanted $2200 plus change for a carryout converter for the car. I elected to replace the exhaust system and the converter pipe/resonator with a system made by Walker Automotive. I've used Walker exhaust parts for my cars while I was in HS during the late 70's and they make quality components. A little welding was necessary, but not a deal breaker. The actual CAT pipe was bolt-on and exactly the same as the OEM. I purchased the entire system for around $600 and some change back in 2017. Five years later, the light has remained off. The mileage is nearly 240K as I type this. After some research and digging around, another phenomenon is hard at work inside of the CAT: as exhaust gasses pulse through the device, the precious metal load within the honeycomb is ever-so-gradually being worn away and subsequently reduced with the passage of time and passage of exhaust gasses; a process akin to erosion. Have you heard of this explanation? Love your videos and I'm waiting on the day you replace the ABS actuator on a second gen Prius!
Thank you for another great video. My 03 Corolla threw a 420 and I immediately smelled the exhaust and it was clean. Allergies make it obvious to me when I'm behind someone who has ditched their cats. Toyota is so picky about that 2nd sensor reading. I'm an EE so I designed an RC filter to slow that second sensor's response- problem solved. If the cat was actually bad I'd gladly replace it. Now I'm going to double check for small exhaust leaks. It would be a bit more complicated but entirely doable to design a circuit to circumvent Big Brother's order to richen/lean as a test. Simply have it look at the upstream and mirror it with appropriate delay and attenuation on the downstream signal. For anyone else considering it just know that tapping into the O2 sensor wires is tricky because that high-temp wire is very difficult to solder.
Hi Randy! Between you and me what you did is a severe violation of the emission standards and if the EPA gets wind of it you’d be fined! Much harder for them to catch you but very easy to catch a shop doing this. If I’m not mistaken some of these corollas had a software update to resolve the issue you’re referring to
If you have an exhaust leak and you spoof the O2 sensor, all you are doing is keeping the check engine light off. If the sensor is getting extra air thru the exhaust leak, its going to make the ECU run richer or leaner... Richer will foul out the cat, leaner will burn your plugs, the valves, and possibly even burn holes in the head of your pistons. I have an '07 and I can smell exhaust when I stop for a red light with the cabin blower on. I found some videos that say its common for the exhaust manifold to crack where the 4 pipes come together. Some people try to braise the crack closed, but the long term solution is to replace the manifold - it costs about $200 if you do it yourself. And yes, this throws an 0420 fault every couple hundred miles. The 2003 to 2010 generation of corollas can be 300,000 mile cars if they dont rust out on you first. Why go out of your way to spoof the ECM and destroy your cat in the process, or your engine?
@@kenwittlief255 My car has almost 250K and I neither smell nor hear exhaust leaks. It also shows very little in the way of LT fuel trim. Toyota has a reflash to make the ECU less sensitive to the rear O2/420 but I haven't bothered. There is also no rust. 300K seems pessimistic given that this car runs about like it did when brand new after a quarter million hard miles. But I agree that if the exhaust manifold leaks I will simply replace it.
Great video as always. I put a cat guard from Cat Security on my 2012 Tacoma. It fits like a glove and has saved my cats at least twice while other people's were stolen in my work parking lot.
I bought a 2006 Honda Jazz a few weeks ago and bought a galvanised cat guard on ebay for £40. Peace of mind as I don't have a garage. Thefts in my County are hundreds mainly target Honda Jazz, Crv Toyota Prius.
I have a 2004 Lexus Rx 330 and when I got it 5 yrs ago... Occasional I would get a PO420 code for Bank 1 cat converter. Used the fouler method and it held it away for a while... Once a month I would have to clear out the code. Now it's pretty constant. Seems like all these 3MZFE engines have a bad cat eventually. Love the engine other than that.
I have the same problem, with the same vehicle. I'm going to try to clean it with some CataClean, & see if that will help me out, a bit. Trying to get my vehicle to pass an inspection. So, I can register it, in the state I live in now.
SIR, THE BEST VALUEABLE EXPLAINATION ON PO420 EVER. IN ADDITION, LACK OF INTERVAL SERVICES ON THE ENGINE WILL CREATE THE DREAD CODE. BY THE WAY I AM LICENSED TEST AND REPAIR TECHNICIAN SINCE 1977. SIR YOUR PRESENTATION IS AMAZING THANK YOU.
That is not the only purpose of the rear O2 sensor. They do trim fuel off of the rear sensor. You will remember older Toyotas even had post cat O2 sensors well before catalyst efficiency codes were even thought of. The rear O2 sensor only respondes to the A/F ratio that is coming out of the catalyst. When the catalyst oxygen storage degrades, that A/F ratio as reflected in the O2 sensor output will start to reflect the front A/F ratio sensor's perturbations. Oxygen storage in the catalyst allows the converter to be more efficient in NOx reduction and the output of the gas is more averaged. Toyota with A/F sensor setups use Tao which combines both active and passive tests to determine the delay in rear O2 sensor and if the rear sensor is working well.
Ahmed thanks for explaining things. Awhile back the cat went out on a 2002 Camry I owned. I got the error code while on a road trip to Chicago. My friend was a mechanic and diagnosed it for me. The car still ran fine and I got it replaced when I came home from the trip. Wasn’t cheap fix though. But it was the only thing I ever had go in that car. My mechanic says that the 02’s were known for this. I had about 100,000 miles on the OD.
Thanks AMD! I have a 2006 Sienna with 155,000 miles, and a P0430 code. I hope to smoke the exhaust system next week to see if I can find a leak. I want to find the reason for this code, rather than just replace the cat. Great video!
@@DylanL69 In May, I smoked the exhaust by removing the air/fuel sensor on bank 2. You can see the smoke exiting at the flange between the cat and oxygen sensor here drive.google.com/file/d/1p5fjdGIE1vrhlpXQia26AOWaGi6Mtvos/view?usp=sharing The cost of the repair was less than $10, vs hundreds to replace the bank2 cat.
Why is my Bank 2 cat failing: its Mode 6 is 50% higher than the Bank 1 cat. Zero misfires and fuel trims look good. However Bank 2 has the EGR which had a completely clogged inlet tube (P400) which was quickly repaired. Still, why is Bank 2 cat so much worse? EGR? Engine leaks oil but doesn't burn it. I have no clue. (It's a 2010 Ford Escape 3.0L Flexfuel V6) NOTE: this engine has Wide Range upstreams.
I have a 2005 Highlander which throws of fa PO420 & PO430 code. otherwise it runs well & gas mileage is fine. I do NOT have an emissions inspection for my vehicle. Is there any cheap & easy way to stop this code? Replace the O2 sensor?
Remember what the CCN said about the things to check, including vacuum leaks. Replacing two catalytic converters in hopes that is what really is the problem is a lot of money to place on a bet. If I get a P0420 code again I will rewatch the video, take notes, and check each issue (including the possibility of not driving enough / far enough) before I get too wild with my wallet. If the two codes came up within a year or two of each other, I would be especially dubious of the two converters failing so close in time .
On your 2005 highlander I would check that exhaust for leaks real well as they are notorious for leaks. If everything checks out then unfortunately it will need cats and on that one it’s the exhaust manifolds if memory serves right
@@TheCarCareNut I have purchased the 2 rear cats from Walker and had them ceramic coated...the front Rh manifold does leak...the gasket is the problem..it is not cracked...I also have the new factory O2 sensors. My 4 runner has 195k on it.
Hello Sir, I am having a P0420 code from my corolla 2018. I bought a new CAT and bank 1 sensor but its still popping up. Checked and worked on all leakages but its still the same. Kindly advise on other ways to resolve this issue. Thank you
Not said: oily engine blowby is a source for plugging the cat with carbon. Install an oil catch can on the PCV hose after the car's warranty expires. The larger the can, the better.
My 07 Lexus RX350 threw a code P0430 and used Cataclean to see if it'll work.. well it didn't.. but i'm wild guessing now that there could be a very tiny exhaust leak that I'm not hearing... the car currently has 88k in it.. will be bringing it to a nearby exhaust shop to see if there is a leak.. great video by the way!.. these info's were helpful!
my 2 honda CR-V car got stolen my cat, one is stolen in front of my house and another is in my parking workplace. they target mostly Honda CR-V, Hyundai tucson/Santa Fe and Kia. because those 2 the cat still in the lower bottom and easy access. Toyota is genius because they put their Cat between the engine cross-member. I check the protection u mention and it cost nearly 500$ just for the metal shield and some bolt. and not available for all car.
Best bet is either anti theft shield/cage/plate for your vehicle OR aftermarket 2-way paging alarm with shock, proximity, and tilt sensors. Vehicle alarm will alert the second someone is within close range of your vehicle and alarm is triggered before they can even touch your catalytic converter. Compustar or Viper is your best bet for those 2 way paging alarms.
Ive seen cats gettn stolen TWICE on their same car. I would think $500 is better than $2-3k each shot. I thought ppl who have older or cant afford, use a clothes dryer/washer vented back shields. Look, if a theft wants it, THEY'LL GET IT, but it WILL deter them if they have to WORK for it. Good luck!
Wow perfect timing! We are looking into a hybrid Toyota 2018 RAV4 from an auction and the one we found has a missing catalytic converter which I had no clue what that was. Thanks for the info!!
For a vehicle burning a quart of oil every 500 miles, would you recommend adding catalytic converter cleaner such Cataclean as preventative maintenance? Maybe not paint thinner as Scotty Kilmer recommends but any aftermarket cleaners you would recommend that doesnt damage the vehicle?
Hi! Honestly the cleaner won’t do much if the car is still burning oil. I would fix the oil consumption first then use a cleaner specifically designed for catalytic converters
@@TheCarCareNut Hi! I'm pleasantly surprised by your reply thanks! The vehicle is an old 2008 Toyota and has the common 2AZ engine's piston ring defect (reference POL 14-12) which is causing the oil consumption. Honestly, the Toyota dealerships in my area did me a great disservice that I won't get into and would not cover the cost to replace the defective oil control rings when it was still under the extended warranty. I 100% agree with you, it would be great to fix the oil burning, but in my situation, it doesn't make financial sense to do so. 1) Based on your years of experience, are there any specific cat cleaners you would recommend? 2) Any other issues that I should be on the lookout for if it's consuming oil this badly? This doesn't make up for the way Toyota has treated me, but your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
Ana angry Asian: start changing the oil with Amsoil OE Oil. That’s their inexpensive 100% synthetic oil that’s better for oil burning engines. They have other tiers for their motor oils I have the same exact engine on a 2004 and have been able to slow down the oil burning issues to 1 quart every 2K miles instead of 1 quart every 1200 miles when using Mobil 1 after 1 month switching over. Do 2K oil changes instead of 5K oil changes as mentioned in car manual. Quick oil changes with 100% Synthetic is your best bet unless you want to fix the piston heads on that engine. I’m driving my vehicle until the engine dies.
Honestly at this high rate of consumption I would look into fixing it if the rest of the car is perfect. If not consider moving on from it. In the meantime keep topping off the oil and that should keep it running. Cleaning the cats at this point is money down the drain honestly. I don’t have specific experience with cat cleaners. Spark plugs at some point will start oil fouling and causing misfires and if that’s not the case and still there’s misfires it might just be low compression. That would be the worse case scenario.
The roaring engine...it sounds like a civic racecar. Nope it's just a Prius without a catalytic converter. We get them roughly once a month at our dealer.
Thank you for this video. We noticed an exhaust smell in the cabin of our 2008 Corolla recently. We only notice it when we're not moving. It doesn't smell like rotten eggs at all to us. I took it to independent mechanics and they said it was the catalytic converter. Shortly after that the check engine light came on and the code read PO420. Wondering if I should question their assessment. Any thoughts are welcome.
Does your car have any of the warning symptoms of a bad catalytic converter? Oil consumption? Short trips? Never warms up? You could throw a new cat at it, but if you're burning a lot of oil, it might go bad again sooner than you like.
Thank God I don't live in the main cat theft neighborhood. But I think my aunt does since they took hers off a 2002 Avalanche. Can't believe people do that.
I appreciate your channel, Thank You! What about using lacquer thinner to clean catalytic converter? Or remove them and soak in soap, like Dawn, to clean when removed? Or using a special Cat clean mix?
Absolutely love your channel! I have a 2006 Toyota sienna 3.3 L. I bought it because I just absolutely have always loved Toyotas, but it has turned out to need a good bit of a little work down here and there. Every since I’ve bought it for the past year, the check engine light and the traction control light has been on. It is throwing codes for the O2 sensors and catalytic converter‘s. Why would this be? Could it be just an exhaust leak causing both or something definitely wrong with O2 sensors.
Chrystal, issues you have described here could be caused by several different malfunctions. You failed to mention any specific codes. Generally this video emphasized there are two possible causes for a P0420 code, you either have an exhaust leak in your exhaust between the engine exhaust manifold and the O2 sensor at the output of the Catalytic converter or indeed you do have a faulty Catalytic converter. Also, it was emphasized that if you don't run your engine long enough periods and normal operating temperatures you may get a False P0420 code. In addition, there are certain year manufactured Toyota's that have the Second O2 sensor mounted with a Gasket that if it fails it will create an exhaust leak and therefore generate a P0420 code ! Other than these scenarios for your issues you described , you need to provide exact Codes that your vehicle is experiencing.
I know this is a shot in the dark but could anyone help me out with an issue with an IS300 It won’t rev over 2k unless I unplug the O2 sensor but is hesitant We’ve replaced the fuel pump because that went bad Changed injectors Changed fuel filter cleared all codes An undefined immobilizer code came up Had a crank no start till all that was done Now it’s idling smooth but won’t rev past 2k unless you unplug the front o2 sensors
My ‘03 4Runner with the ultra reliable 2UZ V8 is beginning to throw the dreaded P0430 code more persistently than it has in recent times😟 I’ve come to expect something of that nature may happen… it’s been in our family since my grandma drove it off the lot brand new and now has 293,700 miles. I’m also really stringent with 5k mile oil change intervals, belt/fluid changes and always use 91 grade gas, but even with meticulous ownership, it’s not that surprising the system would start wearing out with the mileage it’s seen 😅 I’m really hoping that when it comes time to smog it again (I live in a state with yearly emissions testing) I can just get away with running a gallon of lacquer thinner in a half tank of gas and cross my fingers haha! And if it doesn’t work, I’ll just have to bite the bullet and either replace the cat for a couple thousand $’s or just throw an entirely new exhaust system in it, because I intend to drive that truck until the wheels fall off it!
Hi AMD! Thank u for interesting tutorial. Love the eatn chips while ur computer is workn on ur ride.😂🤣 What do u think about the cat thefts happening? Economy is encouraging it/ quick buck. More serious on later models bc piping running thru cat (quicker heater). I installed a shield on my gen4 prius. I know it won't stop them, jst pass me by.🤞
2021 RAV4 31400 miles P0420 secondary code P013A, could a damaged oxygen sensor be the problem? I had hitch installed and a wire installed for hitch wiring came loose and was thrashing under the car and possibly damaged this sensor…. I might also mention my 36 month warranty expired in very late July…. Currently very concerned…
Hey AMD. Thanks for the very informative video. I have a 2003 Camry 2.4L. It has 260k miles. It burns oil pretty badly. Maybe about a quart a week. It has a P0420. Do you think there’s a high probability that the catalytic converter failed due to the oil burning? It also has a P0456 and it stalls every time I put gas in it. I have to give it revs to keep it running. Possible purge valve issue?Otherwise it’s been an extremely reliable car. I put a ton of miles on it and it’s still going strong all things considered. Thanks for you help!
Hmm... Burning oil at 260k? That's 430,000 km, a high-mileage engine. Yes, that burning oil is going to give you trouble, coating the catalytic granules in the converter and rendering it useless. Because the car is high-mileage I would do nothing. To spend money on the oil consumption problem or the converter would be a waste of money, unless you plan to keep the vehicle and restore it. Otherwise, live with your problem until you can replace the vehicle.
Oil consumption is different than oil leak to hit the ground. Changing the pcv value will solve your oil consumption problem. Parts only $14 but labor is more. Use cataclean $25 at Walmart to clean out the carbon deposit on the cat. Change your pcv value n save yourself from experience cat replacement.
@@liarliar1408 its pretty easy to tell if your car is burning oil or leaking it. If you have a puddle in your driveway its a leak, If the exhaust smells like your car is running on anthracite coal, its burning oil. The bigger problem is at some point you will forget to add oil, the pump will run dry at 75mph, and your engine will tear itself apart. Been there with a 2000 Corolla that was on its 2nd engine (first one blown by the previous owner and replaced with same year engine, same soft piston rings).
@@kenwittlief255 thank you for the information. Mine is a 2011 Camry Base. Has 406k miles now n still running. My commuter as I drive 175 miles roundtrip per day to work. These Toyota years have been known to have this oil eating problems. Pcv value is the answer but I could not get into mine as it is way deep behind the manifold. Parts cheap but mechanic will charge me $400 for labor alone. I now just fill it once every two weeks of the cheapest oil brand I can find. Just passed smog too but failed the first time since there are black smoke coming from the tail pipe. Odb hookup when smog all passed. Visual part on the tail pipe end is the only failure. I drove a whole month with expired tag n was planning to junk it n was pulled over twice by the CHP n gave me a fix it ticket. I finally found a guy who did my smog without looking at the black smoke issue n passed me. I'm good for another two years. All that oil burns will go back to the cat n will clog it. You are right with the smell. Mine smells like gasoline mixed n it smells rather good actually. If it smells like rotten egg then the cat is clogged. Mine has code p420 so it is cat related. Car with high mileage I refused to fix anything right now and start hunting for my next ride. I do noticed that when the oil is low, the car may hesitate shakes n about to die on idle while at a traffic stop. I put in neutral n still hesitation. I added more oil n the problem goes away. I already cleaned out the throttle body and mass air flow system so I know a dirty throttle is not the culprit for a car not holding idle. I'm not a mechanic but I have knowledge like an advisor. I know how to troubleshoot cars but I don't know how to fix it. Weird talent I do have.
I have a Sienna 2008 with 130K miles on it. It started to set P420 once a month after I added Chevron Fuel system cleaner to my gas tank. Sparks on Bank1 never been replaced ))) Will see what is there soon.
Holy heck man, this video is soooo good. I had a P0420, Toyota said it needed a new catalytic converter, but there were some fishy aspects to the diagnosis. 1) they spent maybe 5 minutes diagnosing it, and 2) the truck only had 96K miles on it... I remembered that I hadn't changed my spark plugs in awhile (at least 60K miles on copper plugs), so I had them change the plugs. The light hasn't been on since I cleared the code after they installed the plugs. Like you, I wanted to know if the catalytic converter was bad, why was it bad? The Toyota tech told me cheap gas, but again I just felt they were reaching for the easy answers. In context, my truck has 96K miles on it, but it's 15 years old. I don't drive it much, only to the grocery store about a mile away. It doesn't even warm up in-route. That combined with well over-due spark plugs tells me (based on your video) that the catalytic converter is probably prematurely worn. This is why I went to Toyota for a diagnosis -- THIS IS WHAT I NEEDED TO KNOW -- but instead they said my catalytic converter on bank 1 was 'non-functional' due to cheap gas and didn't even ask or check my spark plugs in their service history or ask about its driving conditions... It was such a scam, the dealer was, and to think how much you offered here totally for free, I just feel cheated by the dealer. But at least I now have my answers... at least I think I do. Of note, the dealer said it wasn't an exhaust leak because if it was, they'd hear it... You're telling me they had time to pull the code, plug the exhaust, listen, and fill out the paper work in 5 minutes? I don't have to be a mechanic to know they just pulled the code and made up the rest -- so sickening. This was Toyota of Mt. Pleasant, TX for reference.
Its good to see that some people are not afraid to call out bad dealers and mechanics.
@@JohnSmith-pk4xy I agree. Bad dealers need to be exposed.
Did you mention your driving cycle? Did you mention the plugs?? When we pull codes we look at the freeze frame, and ask for compare AF SENDOR or on older cars we compare o2 sensors values. As a toyota tech we only get so much information from the customer.
@@jakemillson7190First, I appreciate all that you do... Not all techs are bad, actually the vast majority are great at what they do, and I respect them greatly... I did not mention my driving habits, until watching this video, I didn't even know it was a contributing factor... I did not mention the plugs, either, until I was told that I either had to pay a diagnostic fee ($120 if I remember) or get the diagnosis for free if I approved and paid for the fix ($2000 if I remember) -- I asked if I HAD to do what they wanted to avoid the diagnosis fee (i.e. replace the catalytic converter) or could I instead use the fee toward new plugs cause I hadn't changed them in awhile. They said I could use the fee toward new plugs, so that's what I did... As an update, I'm at 120K miles now on the same catalytic converters and no check engine light. A combination of new plugs, a couple runs of "Cataclean", Shell only gas (i.e. no more whatever's cheapest), and every time I take it for a short trip, I let it get up to temperature and then almost floor it on a 4-lane wide open highway from about 15mph up to about 60mph... I am not sure what info they'd have from a 'freeze frame' as you call it. My understanding, and you'd know more, is that the computer does a catalytic converter check every so often, and if it fails enough times to meet a criteria, it throws the code. Because of this, I don't think a freeze frame tells you much because it sounds like Toyota knows that a catalytic converter check on a cold engine will fail, but that this would have to happen many, many times in succession for a code to be thrown. It was my driving habits that allowed for this to happen, and if looking at a single freeze frame, it would likely appear as though my catalytic converter was non-functional, but the larger context needed is that the check(s) were done on a cold engine, most likely. It is worth noting that the dealership is well over an hour away with mostly interstate driving between me and them, so when the truck arrived, it was already warm. If they'd looked at current data rather than freeze frame, I think they'd have seen that the catalytic converter was likely fine. Again, you have to remember that it took them all of 5 minutes to diagnose it. I'm to pay $120 for what I can get from AutoZone for free? i.e. someone to read the code and tell me what it means? That's the issue, for me. If they'd spent some time, I'd have been OK with the fee, but I think if they'd spent the time and, when advising to replace an expensive part, rules out everything else, they'd have thought to ask about my driving habits, or the spark plugs, or anything else that they'd have known could have caused the issue. I think in that world, I'd have gotten the answer from them and thus would have felt I'd spent the diagnosis fee wisely rather than waste it.
For a long time I wanted a Toyota mechanic to create their own TH-cam channel hoping for that mechanic to give great advice on how to take care of your own Toyota and not only tell you but also demonstrate how to. I can say that you sir have done that. I'm so thankful and grateful that you decide it to take time out of your day and make videos for us.
Thank you for watching my channel! I’m happy to help!
@@TheCarCareNut Am A Toyota mechanic, can I get ur whatsapp contact I need ur Assitance
Contact me via Instagram or facebook
@@TheCarCareNut whats ur User id on instagram and facebook
Thecarcarenut
When im done watching Scotty Kilmer i flip the channel to TCCN🤙🏼
Subscribe to both! I like Scotty but I prefer TCCN's lack of click bait or threats of quitting. I hope AMD (TCCN) passes his knowledge as an instructor if he retires from wrenching.
I find Scotty so hard to listen to
Same 😂
Scotty can go suck bricks
He's obsessed and "gone over the cliff"with the "click bait". 👎
I wish every mechanic was as knowledgeable as Car care nut 🙂
Me too!
Totally agree with that. What makes him a gem in my book is not only is he knowledgeable but very few are willing to share what they know with others freely.
AMD gives back to the community. Apparently he has a good job and shares his knowledge. Like HVAC guys, most mechanics just look at commissions, not truth and aren't far above the converter thieves mentioned here. I wouldn't doubt if they were the same people.
@@girohead Sounds like you had a bad experience with the HVAC guy!
@@OCgraftedin77 True, I hate to generalize, but I shouldn't be so ecstatitic over the one extremely honest guy I got after half a dozen trying to sell me new $4000 units. This one fixed it same day for under $500 - small, self owned shop, sought customers not commissions.
Another thoroughly detailed video with so much relevant substance that you won't find anywhere else. Toyota/Lexus should have recognition awards for folks like you. 👏
no, every person who watches a video and fixes their own car, is a lost customer for the dealership shops. Dont expect a metal or award from the corporation.
if you have a blower or, even a shopvac you just have to put hose on the exhaust part of the shopvac to get the blow effect, use that. hose it up on your exhaust, seal it, then start spraying soapy water on your exhaust. same as you try to find leak from tire. make sure car is cold though so it wont evaporate right away.
Great explanation on CCs... it's nice to hear a simplified explanation of how they function etc.
Very informative about P0420. I'll keep in mind about the exhaust leak on my 2005 RAV4 322000+ miles. I kept deleting the P0420 code about almost every 300 miles in the past, but now it's more like 100 miles. Thanks for the great diagnostic tips. 👍
I have a 2000 Corolla with an original 70K with a check engine light on, I went to AutoZone and got a P0420 code. How can I reset the code or cheap fix it without having to replace the CAT. I would appreciate any help.
@pall5114 - I kept getting the annoying P0420 every 100 mi, so I installed a foul plug at the inlet of O2 sensor and then the O2 sensor. Since then the code or CEL hasn't come back for over 8 months. But I don't recommend this method. It's just a temporary and cheap fix. Don't know if you will fail Emissions Inspection in your state if they see that foul plug installed.
@pall5114 - my 2005 RAV4 now has about 341k mi on it. Still runs and has good pick up speed. Best car with Timing Chain that will never need to replace according to Scotty Kilmer 🤔. Can't argue with a mechanic that has 55 yrs of experience...🤓😁.
Also a low quality downstream O2 sensor can also trigger P0420. Happened to my 04 Tundra double cab. Replaced the sensor 2x with cheap made-in-China ones from eBay and the same code keeps popping up after I’ve reset it. Thinking the CC is bad, I got a quote from a muffler shop to replace it for $2k (cat has to come from Toyota dealer they said, no aftermarket units). Too expensive. So I tried one more time, this time using the more expensive Denso OEM sensor. 1.5k miles later, the code has not reappeared. Nothing wrong with the cat. Lesson learned: don’t use cheap, no-name Chinese- made parts. Almost spent a fortune trying to save a buck.
They definitely lied to you. Lol. Well I have a 04 Lexus gs300 and my exhaust manifold with 2 cats cost 4k from Toyota, meanwhile I bought aftermarket for $500 and as you said I used the Denso sensors and haven't had a problem in 15k miles.
Agree, avoid poor quality China parts. Use OeM is best
This is real world 🌎 instruction brother, not another lecture by a boring professor. I’m not a car guy, but a good teacher like you has made this car topic so interesting!
Thank you for watching my brother!
With COVID-19, the case of stolen Catalytic converter exploding more than 3x in some places. I hope Toyota, especially the hybrid have catalytic converter shields installed from factory. Not just USA, the epidemic of Cat Theft also exploding in UK.
There is no way the O2 sensors are testing how good the cat is working. O2 sensors do not detect CO2. The O2 sensors will only tell the engine computer how much oxygen is before and after the cat and that is how it can detect if the cat is plugged. They only determine if the cat is plugged or not.
WOW! This is probably the most enlightening video - car or otherwise - I have seen in a very long time. Lots and lots of details I didn't know about how the ECU interacts with the converter, how to find an exhaust leak so small that only the converter cares about it, and other things that could have led me in the wrong direction.
Thank you for watching!
I suspect a crack in exhaust pipe on my 07 corolla, where the 4 pipes combine into one.
I had forgotten about the exhaust pulses pulling a partial vacuum on the pistons after the exhaust stroke, pulling fresh air into the cat... That explains my 0420 code. I can smell exhaust when I stop for red light with the windows closed and the cabin fan is running....
Watching this from 410k mile 01 rav4 with both those codes 😅
For me, with my ancient almost 29yr old car, its always been about the exhaust leaks.. sure the answer for most people would be just replace Everything in the whole path, from header ,to flexpipe to cat to resonator to rear pipe to muffler..that would do it, for sure, but im cheap and i happen to like that the original exhaust is still On the car after all this time..LOL however, the damn flanges that the cat attaches to on either side, are not that good...pitted and rough surfaces along with a slight bowing make them no longer flat.. thus gaskets do not seal well. end result besides a crap sounding engine note is fuel/air mix is off...Ironically, I just replaced my cat, which didnt smell but i;d always wondered if it were restricting the power , maybe plugged up.. the new one stunk like a pig and is still almost making me sick... gotta be the leaks at the flanges...the old one had a good seal and no smells..and of course, once i installed it, the retailer wouldnt accept a return..This was an excellent vid and ultra in depth.. loved it!
Love these Toyota diagnosis videos!! cant wait for the evap system video
Me too! I haven't had to deal with an evap system problem and have no confidence in my present level of understanding.
Me too my buddy has a corolla that has an evap problem I believe it's with the canister but I don't have a smoke machine gotta have that to test evap guys
Hi AMD, As you say, catalytic converter theft is a big problem these days due to the value of the precious metals inside. My neighborhood is so rough they are stealing the tips off the iridium spark plugs ;-).
Supposedly these converters are being exported to China. A solution to these thefts is an easy fix.
Iridium plugs are you shitting me
My favorite part is where we have to drive around to get the readiness monitors ready because it’s beyond ridiculous with a permanent code, the epa says we can’t pass emissions with a check engine light on, but they have zero issues with us wasting time and fuel non stop to in an attempt to get these bs monitors ready.
Thank you. You do a great job of explaining the car’s control system. I have a much better understanding of this. I love your videos. 👍
Thank you AMD for priceless information. 🙏
I'm time to time come back to your videos again. AMD, you said catalytic converter will start to work only on they are fully wormed up. Is catalytic converter temperature related to engine temperature? How we gonna know that catalytic converter is fully wormed up?
Hi Marjan! So when the computer goes into closed loop the catalytic converter have warmed up sufficiently to operate. They warm up rapidly as they essentially have a torch on them. If you’ve seen an engine running without an exhaust manifold you’ll remember the flames that come out. Some models especially the newer ones will show you the temperature of the catalytic converter
@@TheCarCareNut Thank you for response. Is closed loop for hybrid cars when engine warm up stage is 2 or 3?
It will vary depending on many factors. Usually hybrids get into closed loop rapidly after first start up but the best way to know for sure is to watch the data list
@@TheCarCareNut Thank you.
Some people are born natural coaches or teachers. Others can be trained to be good.
I believe this man is a born and trained teacher/explainer. Much appreciated.
Just sold my 2015 Toyota Highlander took it to the dealership told them engine is very noise they said that is how 3.5 Toyota engine is didn’t like it gone.
Darn it. I was loading the parts canon already 😂😂. Yeah, even a dirty MAF sensor, 5 minutes fix, can throw the A/F ratio off and the codes will light up the dash. Diagnosis is essential
First rule of troubleshooting: make everything right (at least the things you can see) and see what problems remain.
NEVER JUST THROW PARTS AT IT THAT'S NOT DIAGNOSING!!!
@@DylanL69 Unless you're ME, I replace everything lol.
Avoiding cat thefts by making units harder to cut out reminds me of the following phrase: When running from a bear that is chasing you and your pals you don`t have to be faster than the bear, just faster than the guy next to you. Putting up obstacles will make them look elsewhere.
I bought a 03 sequoia with those codes for Catalyitic converters . Dealer has discontinued the part from what I was told . Aftermarket installed is about 2,000 . The truck was a original owner well kept so imo it was worth the save . The prior owner had a bad radiator and drove it miles to just make it home . Blowing the head gaskets severely. I replaced the engine with a lower mileage used engine . Runs amazing now but I now have theses codes . I think the cats were damaged from the excessive heat and coolant going though the pipe .
Thanks for an informative video! Would you recommend adding one additional form of diagnostics, taking the temp of the Cat before and after to see if it is clogged? I have heard this is a thing, but have never tried it. Thanks for your helpful videos! I have a 2007 4Runner V8 with P0430 (bank 2) codes that trigger every 500 miles or so. I'm assuming I have a bad cat, but really don't want to spend the $$ to replace. Could a bad cat cause or lead to poor gas mileage? I'm getting about 13.5 MPG but would love to get that up to 15-17 MPG. Thanks!
I’ve got a 2008 4Runner with the V8. The exhaust manifolds are notorious for leaking, I would start there, especially since you are only getting the code on one side.
Reading about P0420 on 04/20 :)
Excellent presentation. Concise and free from useless extraneous stuff. Don't have to try to find where the info starts. Thank you!
No bull just facts
When checking for exhaust leaks, how do you plug the exhaust safely?
Hi! Use a few shop towels and put them over the exhaust tip abs push them with your hand
The best way to test exhaust leaks is to ask the wife to hold the shop towels and you inside the vehicle to speed up the engines.
The CAT on my 2008 Prius became suspect after the ECU threw a PO420 on a 9 year old car with 178,000 miles. At first, the light would stay on for a day or two - then turn off. But as time went by, the light would come back on and stay on for longer and longer, until there came a time where it remained on. It took around nine months to get to this point, The engine has always had it's oil changes at 4-5000 miles (full synthetic 5-30) and everything was intact - no exhaust leaks, no misfires, no nothing. This was the first time the CEL came on since I had the car. The dealership wanted $2200 plus change for a carryout converter for the car. I elected to replace the exhaust system and the converter pipe/resonator with a system made by Walker Automotive. I've used Walker exhaust parts for my cars while I was in HS during the late 70's and they make quality components. A little welding was necessary, but not a deal breaker. The actual CAT pipe was bolt-on and exactly the same as the OEM. I purchased the entire system for around $600 and some change back in 2017. Five years later, the light has remained off. The mileage is nearly 240K as I type this. After some research and digging around, another phenomenon is hard at work inside of the CAT: as exhaust gasses pulse through the device, the precious metal load within the honeycomb is ever-so-gradually being worn away and subsequently reduced with the passage of time and passage of exhaust gasses; a process akin to erosion. Have you heard of this explanation? Love your videos and I'm waiting on the day you replace the ABS actuator on a second gen Prius!
Thank you for another great video. My 03 Corolla threw a 420 and I immediately smelled the exhaust and it was clean. Allergies make it obvious to me when I'm behind someone who has ditched their cats. Toyota is so picky about that 2nd sensor reading. I'm an EE so I designed an RC filter to slow that second sensor's response- problem solved. If the cat was actually bad I'd gladly replace it. Now I'm going to double check for small exhaust leaks. It would be a bit more complicated but entirely doable to design a circuit to circumvent Big Brother's order to richen/lean as a test. Simply have it look at the upstream and mirror it with appropriate delay and attenuation on the downstream signal. For anyone else considering it just know that tapping into the O2 sensor wires is tricky because that high-temp wire is very difficult to solder.
Hi Randy! Between you and me what you did is a severe violation of the emission standards and if the EPA gets wind of it you’d be fined! Much harder for them to catch you but very easy to catch a shop doing this. If I’m not mistaken some of these corollas had a software update to resolve the issue you’re referring to
If you have an exhaust leak and you spoof the O2 sensor, all you are doing is keeping the check engine light off. If the sensor is getting extra air thru the exhaust leak, its going to make the ECU run richer or leaner... Richer will foul out the cat, leaner will burn your plugs, the valves, and possibly even burn holes in the head of your pistons.
I have an '07 and I can smell exhaust when I stop for a red light with the cabin blower on. I found some videos that say its common for the exhaust manifold to crack where the 4 pipes come together. Some people try to braise the crack closed, but the long term solution is to replace the manifold - it costs about $200 if you do it yourself. And yes, this throws an 0420 fault every couple hundred miles.
The 2003 to 2010 generation of corollas can be 300,000 mile cars if they dont rust out on you first. Why go out of your way to spoof the ECM and destroy your cat in the process, or your engine?
@@kenwittlief255 My car has almost 250K and I neither smell nor hear exhaust leaks. It also shows very little in the way of LT fuel trim. Toyota has a reflash to make the ECU less sensitive to the rear O2/420 but I haven't bothered. There is also no rust. 300K seems pessimistic given that this car runs about like it did when brand new after a quarter million hard miles. But I agree that if the exhaust manifold leaks I will simply replace it.
Amazing. I always learn something new from your videos. Thanks AMD!
Great video as always. I put a cat guard from Cat Security on my 2012 Tacoma. It fits like a glove and has saved my cats at least twice while other people's were stolen in my work parking lot.
I bought a 2006 Honda Jazz a few weeks ago and bought a galvanised cat guard on ebay for £40. Peace of mind as I don't have a garage. Thefts in my County are hundreds mainly target Honda Jazz, Crv Toyota Prius.
I have a 2004 Lexus Rx 330 and when I got it 5 yrs ago... Occasional I would get a PO420 code for Bank 1 cat converter. Used the fouler method and it held it away for a while... Once a month I would have to clear out the code. Now it's pretty constant. Seems like all these 3MZFE engines have a bad cat eventually. Love the engine other than that.
I have the same problem, with the same vehicle. I'm going to try to clean it with some CataClean, & see if that will help me out, a bit. Trying to get my vehicle to pass an inspection. So, I can register it, in the state I live in now.
In my 2004 ES 330 (same engine) cleaning the PCV Valve got rid of intermittent codes.
SIR, THE BEST VALUEABLE EXPLAINATION ON PO420 EVER. IN ADDITION, LACK OF INTERVAL SERVICES ON THE ENGINE WILL CREATE THE DREAD CODE. BY THE WAY I AM LICENSED TEST AND REPAIR TECHNICIAN SINCE 1977. SIR YOUR PRESENTATION IS AMAZING THANK YOU.
That is not the only purpose of the rear O2 sensor. They do trim fuel off of the rear sensor. You will remember older Toyotas even had post cat O2 sensors well before catalyst efficiency codes were even thought of. The rear O2 sensor only respondes to the A/F ratio that is coming out of the catalyst. When the catalyst oxygen storage degrades, that A/F ratio as reflected in the O2 sensor output will start to reflect the front A/F ratio sensor's perturbations. Oxygen storage in the catalyst allows the converter to be more efficient in NOx reduction and the output of the gas is more averaged. Toyota with A/F sensor setups use Tao which combines both active and passive tests to determine the delay in rear O2 sensor and if the rear sensor is working well.
Ahmed thanks for explaining things. Awhile back the cat went out on a 2002 Camry I owned. I got the error code while on a road trip to Chicago. My friend was a mechanic and diagnosed it for me. The car still ran fine and I got it replaced when I came home from the trip. Wasn’t cheap fix though. But it was the only thing I ever had go in that car. My mechanic says that the 02’s were known for this. I had about 100,000 miles on the OD.
Thank you for watching Alex! Was it a V6 or 4?
@@TheCarCareNut it was the 4 cylinder.
Thanks AMD! I have a 2006 Sienna with 155,000 miles, and a P0430 code. I hope to smoke the exhaust system next week to see if I can find a leak. I want to find the reason for this code, rather than just replace the cat. Great video!
You dont need to smoke it just feel around the exhaust while it's in the air or you're under the hood you'll feel the pulse from the exhaust
@@DylanL69 In May, I smoked the exhaust by removing the air/fuel sensor on bank 2. You can see the smoke exiting at the flange between the cat and oxygen sensor here drive.google.com/file/d/1p5fjdGIE1vrhlpXQia26AOWaGi6Mtvos/view?usp=sharing The cost of the repair was less than $10, vs hundreds to replace the bank2 cat.
@@aquamancrow that looks like a failed gasket right there
@@DylanL69 That's exactly what it was.
P0420 usually comes with an oil burning 1zz Celica. 😅
Thank you for this video. What do you think about cleaner liquids that you put in the gas tank. Can they solve the P0420 problem?
I Absolutely learned a lot! Thank you for being so thorough!!!
Why is my Bank 2 cat failing: its Mode 6 is 50% higher than the Bank 1 cat. Zero misfires and fuel trims look good. However Bank 2 has the EGR which had a completely clogged inlet tube (P400) which was quickly repaired. Still, why is Bank 2 cat so much worse? EGR? Engine leaks oil but doesn't burn it. I have no clue. (It's a 2010 Ford Escape 3.0L Flexfuel V6) NOTE: this engine has Wide Range upstreams.
Thanks for your elaborations on how the emission systems work with the integrate components....
Thanks a lot. Very useful information.
Have you ever tried the reverse vacuum cleaner method of blowing air into the exhaust and using soapy spray bottle to find a possible exhaust leak?
Is it possible that changing old spark plugs could get rid of the cat converter code also?
If you have the car for a year used and you haven't replaced it then its always a good thing to get a new spark plugs
I have a 2005 Highlander which throws of fa PO420 & PO430 code. otherwise it runs well & gas mileage is fine. I do NOT have an emissions inspection for my vehicle. Is there any cheap & easy way to stop this code? Replace the O2 sensor?
I am going to try to replace my O2 sensor first...before I do the rear cats on my v8 4 runner.
Remember what the CCN said about the things to check, including vacuum leaks. Replacing two catalytic converters in hopes that is what really is the problem is a lot of money to place on a bet.
If I get a P0420 code again I will rewatch the video, take notes, and check each issue (including the possibility of not driving enough / far enough) before I get too wild with my wallet.
If the two codes came up within a year or two of each other, I would be especially dubious of the two converters failing so close in time .
On your 2005 highlander I would check that exhaust for leaks real well as they are notorious for leaks. If everything checks out then unfortunately it will need cats and on that one it’s the exhaust manifolds if memory serves right
@@TheCarCareNut I have purchased the 2 rear cats from Walker and had them ceramic coated...the front Rh manifold does leak...the gasket is the problem..it is not cracked...I also have the new factory O2 sensors. My 4 runner has 195k on it.
@@TheCarCareNut Thank you, love your channel.
No actually no
The price of the platinum is $800 an ounce
The price of the of gold is $1700
That’s what I heard on the news and I mentioned that in the video. Something is making those awful people to steal them
@@TheCarCareNut what's making the late model converts worth more money is becase the precious Radium and
poldium.
Hello Sir, I am having a P0420 code from my corolla 2018. I bought a new CAT and bank 1 sensor but its still popping up. Checked and worked on all leakages but its still the same. Kindly advise on other ways to resolve this issue. Thank you
Oh dude…. You shouldn’t have had to even pay for that new cat!!! If I’m not mistaken, Toyota warranty’s their cats for 8years/80k miles!
Best explication ever!! Good point about the pulsing and suction of oxygen!
Not said: oily engine blowby is a source for plugging the cat with carbon.
Install an oil catch can on the PCV hose after the car's warranty expires.
The larger the can, the better.
If your car has an oil separator you don't need a catch can
My 07 Lexus RX350 threw a code P0430 and used Cataclean to see if it'll work.. well it didn't.. but i'm wild guessing now that there could be a very tiny exhaust leak that I'm not hearing... the car currently has 88k in it.. will be bringing it to a nearby exhaust shop to see if there is a leak.. great video by the way!.. these info's were helpful!
What was it ?
my 2 honda CR-V car got stolen my cat, one is stolen in front of my house and another is in my parking workplace. they target mostly Honda CR-V, Hyundai tucson/Santa Fe and Kia. because those 2 the cat still in the lower bottom and easy access. Toyota is genius because they put their Cat between the engine cross-member.
I check the protection u mention and it cost nearly 500$ just for the metal shield and some bolt. and not available for all car.
Best bet is either anti theft shield/cage/plate for your vehicle OR aftermarket 2-way paging alarm with shock, proximity, and tilt sensors. Vehicle alarm will alert the second someone is within close range of your vehicle and alarm is triggered before they can even touch your catalytic converter. Compustar or Viper is your best bet for those 2 way paging alarms.
Ive seen cats gettn stolen TWICE on their same car. I would think $500 is better than $2-3k each shot. I thought ppl who have older or cant afford, use a clothes dryer/washer vented back shields. Look, if a theft wants it, THEY'LL GET IT, but it WILL deter them if they have to WORK for it. Good luck!
No they target hybrids specifically all the other crap no
Best youtube channel about Toyota/Lexus. Please make a video about brake fluid flush/bleeding process . Thanks 👍
That's very easy to do
Now i know i need to check for an exhaust leak and the gaskets for the oxygen sensors on my '04 Celica. Chances are... it really is the cat though.
Wow perfect timing! We are looking into a hybrid Toyota 2018 RAV4 from an auction and the one we found has a missing catalytic converter which I had no clue what that was. Thanks for the info!!
You are wrong Mr.CarCareNut. These lazy people shouldn't have/deserve families.
I have a lexus 2008 i250 has new cats but still getting codes 420 & 430 new o2 sensor all around what could be?
Thanks as always AMD!
Thank you for all these very informative vedios!!! God Bless You, your Business and your Family
For a vehicle burning a quart of oil every 500 miles, would you recommend adding catalytic converter cleaner such Cataclean as preventative maintenance? Maybe not paint thinner as Scotty Kilmer recommends but any aftermarket cleaners you would recommend that doesnt damage the vehicle?
Hi! Honestly the cleaner won’t do much if the car is still burning oil. I would fix the oil consumption first then use a cleaner specifically designed for catalytic converters
@@TheCarCareNut Hi! I'm pleasantly surprised by your reply thanks!
The vehicle is an old 2008 Toyota and has the common 2AZ engine's piston ring defect (reference POL 14-12) which is causing the oil consumption. Honestly, the Toyota dealerships in my area did me a great disservice that I won't get into and would not cover the cost to replace the defective oil control rings when it was still under the extended warranty. I 100% agree with you, it would be great to fix the oil burning, but in my situation, it doesn't make financial sense to do so.
1) Based on your years of experience, are there any specific cat cleaners you would recommend?
2) Any other issues that I should be on the lookout for if it's consuming oil this badly?
This doesn't make up for the way Toyota has treated me, but your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
Ana angry Asian: start changing the oil with Amsoil OE Oil. That’s their inexpensive 100% synthetic oil that’s better for oil burning engines. They have other tiers for their motor oils
I have the same exact engine on a 2004 and have been able to slow down the oil burning issues to 1 quart every 2K miles instead of 1 quart every 1200 miles when using Mobil 1 after 1 month switching over.
Do 2K oil changes instead of 5K oil changes as mentioned in car manual. Quick oil changes with 100% Synthetic is your best bet unless you want to fix the piston heads on that engine. I’m driving my vehicle until the engine dies.
Honestly at this high rate of consumption I would look into fixing it if the rest of the car is perfect. If not consider moving on from it. In the meantime keep topping off the oil and that should keep it running. Cleaning the cats at this point is money down the drain honestly.
I don’t have specific experience with cat cleaners. Spark plugs at some point will start oil fouling and causing misfires and if that’s not the case and still there’s misfires it might just be low compression. That would be the worse case scenario.
Fix the oil burning problem and yes that means an expensive rebuild no way around it or get a new engine or car
The roaring engine...it sounds like a civic racecar.
Nope it's just a Prius without a catalytic converter. We get them roughly once a month at our dealer.
Is there any other Toyota geneus like the Car Nut? I don't think so.... He is the Grand Wizard of Toyos!
Very informative video. I hope those lazy people learn too. 😆
I wonder, what's the mark up/ profit margin on these catalytic converters?
Thank you! What should a person check to figure out what is killing his catalytic converter?
Didn’t know that after 03-04 years the government mandated the computer testing exhaust
Great video, what do you think of catalytic converter cleaners?
Hi! Honestly I don’t like them. Well maintained cars that are driven normally shouldn’t need cleaners to keep the cats running well
They really don't work just kind of gimmick unless you absolutely need it I wouldn't use it
Thank you for this video. We noticed an exhaust smell in the cabin of our 2008 Corolla recently. We only notice it when we're not moving. It doesn't smell like rotten eggs at all to us. I took it to independent mechanics and they said it was the catalytic converter. Shortly after that the check engine light came on and the code read PO420. Wondering if I should question their assessment. Any thoughts are welcome.
Does your car have any of the warning symptoms of a bad catalytic converter? Oil consumption? Short trips? Never warms up? You could throw a new cat at it, but if you're burning a lot of oil, it might go bad again sooner than you like.
I really appreciate your videos. Thank you so much. Well done!
Thank God I don't live in the main cat theft neighborhood. But I think my aunt does since they took hers off a 2002 Avalanche. Can't believe people do that.
2010 scion xb with the 420 code. 127k miles. Needs a new catalytic?
The thieves love the hybrids they pretty much won't touch anything else but them hybrid cats
Great video. Thank you.
That was a great video. Very informative.... Thanks
I had both my cats cut off by a thief on a 19 Tacoma cost $3,800 to replace
I appreciate your channel, Thank You!
What about using lacquer thinner to clean catalytic converter? Or remove them and soak in soap, like Dawn, to clean when removed? Or using a special Cat clean mix?
You are the best sir
Thanks for the information really helped alot!
Absolutely love your channel! I have a 2006 Toyota sienna 3.3 L. I bought it because I just absolutely have always loved Toyotas, but it has turned out to need a good bit of a little work down here and there. Every since I’ve bought it for the past year, the check engine light and the traction control light has been on. It is throwing codes for the O2 sensors and catalytic converter‘s. Why would this be? Could it be just an exhaust leak causing both or something definitely wrong with O2 sensors.
Chrystal, issues you have described here could be caused by several different malfunctions. You failed to mention any specific codes. Generally this video emphasized there are two possible causes for a P0420 code, you either have an exhaust leak in your exhaust between the engine exhaust manifold and the O2 sensor at the output of the Catalytic converter or indeed you do have a faulty Catalytic converter. Also, it was emphasized that if you don't run your engine long enough periods and normal operating temperatures you may get a False P0420 code. In addition, there are certain year manufactured Toyota's that have the Second O2 sensor mounted with a Gasket that if it fails it will create an exhaust leak and therefore generate a P0420 code ! Other than these scenarios for your issues you described , you need to provide exact Codes that your vehicle is experiencing.
I know this is a shot in the dark but could anyone help me out with an issue with an IS300
It won’t rev over 2k unless I unplug the O2 sensor but is hesitant
We’ve replaced the fuel pump because that went bad
Changed injectors
Changed fuel filter cleared all codes
An undefined immobilizer code came up
Had a crank no start till all that was done
Now it’s idling smooth but won’t rev past 2k unless you unplug the front o2 sensors
We’ve been racking our brains trying to figure it out if anyone has any ideas please lmk
My ‘03 4Runner with the ultra reliable 2UZ V8 is beginning to throw the dreaded P0430 code more persistently than it has in recent times😟 I’ve come to expect something of that nature may happen… it’s been in our family since my grandma drove it off the lot brand new and now has 293,700 miles. I’m also really stringent with 5k mile oil change intervals, belt/fluid changes and always use 91 grade gas, but even with meticulous ownership, it’s not that surprising the system would start wearing out with the mileage it’s seen 😅 I’m really hoping that when it comes time to smog it again (I live in a state with yearly emissions testing) I can just get away with running a gallon of lacquer thinner in a half tank of gas and cross my fingers haha! And if it doesn’t work, I’ll just have to bite the bullet and either replace the cat for a couple thousand $’s or just throw an entirely new exhaust system in it, because I intend to drive that truck until the wheels fall off it!
The wheels falling off is a cheaper fix than a new cat
great explanation thank you for posting this.
Great video thank you
2004 Toyota RAV4 with a now loud noise and a rich gas smell. Dreading taking it to see what code I will get. :-) Wish you were closer!
So what you’re saying is, I can just put the test pipe on my 2002🤨 haha
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
A DMT FROM AFRICA
Great video
one question which gas is good to put !
Hi! Top tier fuel
Hi AMD! Thank u for interesting tutorial. Love the eatn chips while ur computer is workn on ur ride.😂🤣 What do u think about the cat thefts happening? Economy is encouraging it/ quick buck. More serious on later models bc piping running thru cat (quicker heater). I installed a shield on my gen4 prius. I know it won't stop them, jst pass me by.🤞
The prius is the ones getting stolen the most
2021 RAV4 31400 miles P0420 secondary code P013A, could a damaged oxygen sensor be the problem? I had hitch installed and a wire installed for hitch wiring came loose and was thrashing under the car and possibly damaged this sensor…. I might also mention my 36 month warranty expired in very late July…. Currently very concerned…
Also, coolant leaking into the cylinders will also kill cats too .😢
Thank you!!!
Do you suggest replacing both o2 sensors at the same time?
08 avalon, p0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
It's rear seeing technician sharing secrets like this,
Hey AMD. Thanks for the very informative video. I have a 2003 Camry 2.4L. It has 260k miles. It burns oil pretty badly. Maybe about a quart a week. It has a P0420. Do you think there’s a high probability that the catalytic converter failed due to the oil burning?
It also has a P0456 and it stalls every time I put gas in it. I have to give it revs to keep it running. Possible purge valve issue?Otherwise it’s been an extremely reliable car. I put a ton of miles on it and it’s still going strong all things considered. Thanks for you help!
Hmm... Burning oil at 260k? That's 430,000 km, a high-mileage engine. Yes, that burning oil is going to give you trouble, coating the catalytic granules in the converter and rendering it useless. Because the car is high-mileage I would do nothing. To spend money on the oil consumption problem or the converter would be a waste of money, unless you plan to keep the vehicle and restore it. Otherwise, live with your problem until you can replace the vehicle.
@@paulmaxwell8851 thanks for the advice, Paul!
Oil consumption is different than oil leak to hit the ground. Changing the pcv value will solve your oil consumption problem. Parts only $14 but labor is more. Use cataclean $25 at Walmart to clean out the carbon deposit on the cat. Change your pcv value n save yourself from experience cat replacement.
@@liarliar1408 its pretty easy to tell if your car is burning oil or leaking it. If you have a puddle in your driveway its a leak, If the exhaust smells like your car is running on anthracite coal, its burning oil. The bigger problem is at some point you will forget to add oil, the pump will run dry at 75mph, and your engine will tear itself apart. Been there with a 2000 Corolla that was on its 2nd engine (first one blown by the previous owner and replaced with same year engine, same soft piston rings).
@@kenwittlief255 thank you for the information. Mine is a 2011 Camry Base. Has 406k miles now n still running. My commuter as I drive 175 miles roundtrip per day to work. These Toyota years have been known to have this oil eating problems. Pcv value is the answer but I could not get into mine as it is way deep behind the manifold. Parts cheap but mechanic will charge me $400 for labor alone. I now just fill it once every two weeks of the cheapest oil brand I can find. Just passed smog too but failed the first time since there are black smoke coming from the tail pipe. Odb hookup when smog all passed. Visual part on the tail pipe end is the only failure. I drove a whole month with expired tag n was planning to junk it n was pulled over twice by the CHP n gave me a fix it ticket. I finally found a guy who did my smog without looking at the black smoke issue n passed me. I'm good for another two years. All that oil burns will go back to the cat n will clog it. You are right with the smell. Mine smells like gasoline mixed n it smells rather good actually. If it smells like rotten egg then the cat is clogged. Mine has code p420 so it is cat related. Car with high mileage I refused to fix anything right now and start hunting for my next ride. I do noticed that when the oil is low, the car may hesitate shakes n about to die on idle while at a traffic stop. I put in neutral n still hesitation. I added more oil n the problem goes away. I already cleaned out the throttle body and mass air flow system so I know a dirty throttle is not the culprit for a car not holding idle. I'm not a mechanic but I have knowledge like an advisor. I know how to troubleshoot cars but I don't know how to fix it. Weird talent I do have.
These small low ten oil rings sure don't help things plus the water like oil.
I have a Sienna 2008 with 130K miles on it. It started to set P420 once a month after I added Chevron Fuel system cleaner to my gas tank.
Sparks on Bank1 never been replaced ))) Will see what is there soon.
I tape the hose from my shop vac blower to tailpipe to ck leaks.