Some of the info on the 'terms and condition' as linked to from the giveaway sign-up page don't match what you said in the video...specifically the promotion period and there is no mention of installation being included (unless I missed it somewhere). I'm not complaining at all, just pointing this out.
As someone who has done financial counseling, I warn people against shopping based upon payments. Salespersons can add to the length of loans to get the payments down so you end up paying too much. I negotiate the "Tax, Title and Out the door" price and, if they try adding things afterwards, I walk out. I've seen the color go out of a salesperson's face after making a great deal when I wrote a check for the total amount. I don't buy new but 1-2 year old. Let someone else take the depreciation hit.
Roy Davis: I completely and 100% agree. My suggestion to others is to KNOW your payment, term, APR, and don't budge from it BEFORE even entering the dealership. I understand what you are saying and agree. If a buyer allows the Dealership to dictate the terms and length of payments, then the buyer is bound to loose.
You still take a "depreciation hit" even with a used vehicle the moment you drive it off the lot. Say you buy a 2017 Ford F150 for $10,000 dollars. After you take possession of the vehicle, your truck is now worth $8,000 dollars to any dealership (exclude private buyers).
You can avoid an awful lot of the waiting and back and forth with salesmen and managers by simply communicating directly, by e-mail, with the Internet sales manager at the dealership. It might take a few days, and a few e-mails, but you can do it all comfortably from your home or office.
When I bought my Ram, I told them how much I’m willing to pay just like if you’re bidding on eBay, what’s your Max Bid? Something is only worth what somebody is willing to pay for. I bought a 15 Ram 2500 mega with an msrp of 64,420 and told them I want $12k off. After 4-5 back and forth the manager came and shook my hand. Pick out the Unit BEFORE you step on the lot and what you are willing to pay. Also show up there on the last Saturday of the month because they wanna close out the month and get as many units sold. It is all about how many Units they sell, that is their highest priority, they pay daily interest on every unit getting sun tans.
I shopped between 2 dealers and made sure they knew it. When it was all said and done I got 11k off of my truck. Also ford has truck month and that really is the best time to go due to the incentives.
Arrange financing ahead of time, and use cash as a down payment. That way you instantly have the upper hand at a dealership. It’s no secret you get screwed with your trade in and finance department.
There are four transactions involved in buying a vehicle: 1. The price of the vehicle you are purchasing. 2. The price of the vehicle you are selling the dealership (your "trade") 3. Your down payment. 4. The length of the loan at a certain percentage rate. If you let the stealership bundle all that together, you won't get your best deal. If you, a buyer, tell me, a salesman, an amount you want for your "note", you will not get the best deal. I can make a car payment fit your terms and even get you to pay higher. Guaranteed. So, please don't tell them a payment you are willing to make, and don't let em bundle the four transactions....
Wally Jordan: I respectfully disagree. If I know what my bottom line is on both my trade and the new vehicle as well as what APR, term and down payment I want, I can calculate the the exact payment I am aiming for. This way the dealer has to determine trade value and incentives to match. I see what your saying, but your method is begging for people to make a mistake at the dealer and pay too much.
Oh, Im saying what not to let the salesman do. Those four transactions are part of what is known as the four-square. I "held gross" on many a new and used vehicles back in the day. Also, I could up your payment in your mind and devalue your trade in front of you without saying a word. If you know what you will pay per month that's great. Just don't tell the salesperson or management. i.e., don't let them know you are a payment shopper. Just sayin what my experience as a salesman was...
Dan P that's great. I'm gonna hit you with some interest rate and down payment and talk and talk and talk to you. We'll talk about your hibbies, your kids, your grandkids...etc I'll find out just how much you want that vehicle and keep talking. Actually I'll get you talking. It's not personal. It's just sales. I'll get you to up your minimum payment, up your down payment, decrease your trade, or make it on the interest. I can get you to justify to yourself why you need to re-examine your payment amount and increase it. Again, it's not personal. It's just sales. Please never tell them how much your willing to pay monthly or what you think your trade is worth. Let them come to you with numbers and go from there. :)
$2.15 a gallon! Is that gas or diesel? Whatever it is, I just paid $3.69 here for Jerry Brown's special SoCal blend! Oh my goodness, God Bless Texas! I'm ready to move!
Good advise Big. I learned to buy a car from my father-in-law in 1970. He was amazing. With the salesman right there you tell your wife, "Is this the car you want?" and the salesman's eyes will pop out. Next you say. "Now you know if we don't get the right deal we won't get it. Are you OK with that" and your wife says yes. Now you tell the salesman he will need to get the sales manager out here. He will always say :Oh I can handle it. Now you hit him with a low ball offer that you come up with based on your research you did before you hit the lot. You begin your negotiations there. I negotiate the car without a trade. After you come up with an agreed price, then you negotiate a trade value. That is how I do it. Yes, you must be ready to walk off the lot if the right deal is not offered. And lastly when you hit the finance office take absolutely nothing they offer, just the finance man. No insurance, no little extras no matter how good they make it sound.
use the internet and stock numbers. I used the stock numbers of one dealer against another. it worked great got $15k+ off my 2016 RAM 3500. I also was just texting the salesman, had the deal done in about 45 minutes. to me, it's harder for a salesman to b.s you through text or email. I also give them yes/no questions. I found this dealer has this truck for this price, can you beat it, yes or no? that when I give them the stock numbers and price. I used the same practice to help my uncle buy his ram 2500 and was able to knock off around $14k off his sticker. he was way happy, the best he could do was $5k-6k off MSRP. don't get mad or upset. there is a truck with your name and price on it, you might have to travel, but it out there.
You should take a trusted friend with you one that won't be afraid of making you mad and stand up and tell you that it's time to walk away. Because going in to a dealer by your self can be scary if you don't know the in,s and out,s of car buying.
Just writing to let you know....I just found your channel...referred by "Keep Your Daydream". I've watched a couple and you are very informative. Thank you, and keep up the great work!
Your negotiating based on monthly payment made a lot of sense. Knowing your numbers on the vehicles makes it work. Never tried that approach but sure seems it would eliminate some of the stress in educating a salesman in the incentives he probably isn't aware of Sales Mgr. should be able to put together. Just get your coffee and be ready for a long afternoon. :)
Absolutely agree. Normally they call within 24hrs to sweeten the deal. Plus you can always get them to remove the destination fee which to me is the biggest scam. Had a car hauler tell me that he hauled for GM and made 3500 per load. Now tell my why I have a destination fee of 985 when he hauled 8 trucks. Lol
A video idea that I haven't seen anyone talk about is what trim packages and options give you the least money lost (highest value retained for the glass half full people) between buying brand new and selling/trading say 50k miles later. It would be useful for people thinking about getting just what they need or upgrading to the next higher trim package/engine option/drive train/ hd vs 1/2 ton because it will retain value better. Examples: If a Lariate is worth $8000 more than an XLT will there still be $8000 difference when it's time to go do truck shopping again? Do 4wds, diesel engines, and crew cabs hold their original value difference? Does it vary between brands and models?
Most of this information I agree with, but I totally disagree with negotiating to payment amount as stated at 7:35. Negotiate to a bottom dollar, period, and dont get tied up in their financing games. Do your research ahead of time (like this video explains), get pre-approved at a credit union in advance (on average they have the best rates) and let them work with you on a financing term that meets your budget (dealerships dont care about your budget but your credit union partner is looking out for your best interest) and go to multiple dealerships and force them to give you their best offer (or respond to your offer with their best shot), and go with the best offer. Good advice from Roy Davis below my comment BTW!
Just bought a 2018 Silverado last weekend. It was on sale for 10k off. I bargained them down $5k more and got full trade value. Figures I just bought a ranch hand at trucfitters on Monday for the truck
You mentioned getting the right options, transmission etc. Isn't there only te work choices in transmissions, or axle ratios? Either gas or diesel?!? I'm trying to research for my next truck. I want to get the best truck for my buck!!! Any suggestions?!?
Only thing I don't agree with is negotiating for the monthly payment. Better to negotiate down the actual price of the car rather than for a lower monthly payment. Dealerships can pull a bunch of tricks to lower your payment but still keep the vehicle price high.
lol I hope you realize that negotiated payments determine the final price of the truck. This of course requires doing math before you go to the dealership. Regarding your last line, if I require a monthly payment of $500 with no money down for a maximum of 60 months, how can the dealer do any tricks?
To finance, go to your credit union, then walk into the dealership with a check (you know the limit you have to spend). Usually your credit union will have much better rates than a dealership will.
Hey just want to say love your channel. I bought my new truck a year ago. Best time to go is at the end of the month and close to the end of the year when the next year model is coming out. I got my ram 1500 with a msrp of 46k. In September and got it for 12k off the stick.
Charlietuna49: not much different. Just remember that the dealership isn't as incentified to sell a truck that isn't on their lot. They may not give you all the discounts they might otherwise
Best way o have found to speed up the "negotiation" and get the best deal is buy going through Costco or Sam's club. They take all the back a fourth out of it for you. The dealership will show you MSRP, invoice and then you price. 4 times I have done it the price I paid was on average $2k below the "invoice" AND I was only at the dealership for about an hour or two each time. Friends and family have done this as well with the same result.
All great info. I have a few suggestions. The time of the month that you visit can make a big difference, dealerships can get lower prices on all their vehicles if they meet a monthly sales # or quota. Visit first in the 3rd week of the month and as Big Truck said, be ready to walk away, but let them know that if something changes in the next week and you haven't purchased yet, they can give you a call. Also, don't ever be the first one to make an offer on an amount, even if you plan on low balling with the first offer and continue that way, get them to make an offer, the counter, then let them counter, they'll want you to be the first, don't ever switch out of the 2nd position. BTBR is right about wanting to sell you something on their lot, that can be used b/c if they want to offer you a truck that doesn't have everything you want, but has everything you need (don't let them know which is which), you can use this by your willingness to let something go, like color, but you're really ok with he color they have. Try to make it fun and again, not only be willing to walk away, but expect to walk away, they'll call if your in the ballpark. Lastly, if you plan on paying cash, you'd think that they may make a great offer to get the cash, but financing is where dealerships make huge amounts of money off your purchase. Do the financing, and if they give you a good chunk of the price, wait 3 months and pay off the loan, usually the dealership will get credit for the financing and you won't screw them, you have to be fair. On my last purchase, I financed through the dealership at a fairly high rate, but then 3 months later, I got a great rate from my credit union and had them pay off the loan and started with the lower rate and payments. Hope this helps some of you, Good liuck.
That’s a pretty good overview it’s also pretty close to how I’ve purchased vehicles in the past. One thing to mention is always have your finances in order I like my bank and I get the best rate, however what I like to add into the negotiations is to use whatever big 3 financing the dealer is using because the dealer gets money from the finance company then as soon as you sign the loan go straight to your bank and have it taken over by them. That’s just what I do. Great video!
Just picked up a ruby red 2015 450 that was originally sold in TX... hmmmm wonder if it’s your old one! Looks like it used to have a ranch hand on it... extremely well taken care of...
n2snow haha when I bought my 17 f150 I was walking out the door over 268 .00. They were like are you really going to walk away over that little amount and I was like yes, yes I am that’s a payment. They caved,lol.
Another great video. When I bought a van for my wife we (sales person and i) did the price dance with the sales mgr. I got tired of it so I followed him back to the sales office and talked directly to the sales mgr. And all the wasted time stoped and we came to a price in 5 minutes. And I handed the sales man a check and drove the van home. Those games they play are a big waste of time. I understand they need to make money to keep the doors open, when they "go talk to their sales mgr. And actually go the water fountain for a drink and think I'm not looking. Wow who do they (sales people) think we are. Back to your videos great job keep them coming.
I'd like to add some things and if it's redundant info I apologize in advance. My PRO TIPS only apply to straight shooters. Have your own financing (your bank) example: if you have a trade they can tell you that they'll give you a million dollars for your trade-in but the only thing that matters is the "trade difference". When that hits to your liking take the deal, if not tell them where they need to be or walk and try the same at another dealer. A lot of people don't realize that rebates/incentives you get are reimbursed back to the dealer. example: truck is 40,000 with 7500 in rebates, you're all excited and agree to pay the difference of 32.5 believing you got a great deal. Well, they just FULL STICKER'D you because they get that back. If you're going in planning on paying cash, no trade-in, or you have your own financing you have the advantage. I would wait till late august (new models rolling in, big chance to score on current model year) and even better last day or two of the month (they are trying to hit their goals and are more likely to take a hit just to move the unit) and end of year is another great time because they have to pay ad velorem tax on their remaining inventory however the disadvantage is there are no good incentives on the new next year models and the current year has very limited inventory (your choice's are limited) but they want to get rid of their remaining current year inventory. One last thing, I am against financing your tag, tax and title but I understand if you cannot afford to write that check after 30 days. Also don't shop a payment ( I'm not saying don't know in your own mind what your max is just don't let them know) example; I have friends that go to the dealer with their current vehicle and tell the salesman as long as my payment isn't more than $600 a month I'll make a deal......ding ding ding score one for the dealership!. Also don't be unrealistic, if you can't afford something don't buy it! There are MANY variables I'm only trying to give some good advice.
Trying to use this info right now shopping for new trucks. The dealers are not budging from their "internet price" off of the msrp. Most are only showing about $4000-$5000 off msrp. I'm calling and emailing various dealers in my state, but nobody shows signs of taking $8000, or anything even close, from the suggested retail price of a 3/4 ton truck. They are all pretty close in prices to each other. What is going on? Is internet pricing now the norm and nobody is going to deviate from it? Bad time to try to purchase new trucks? Have been working on this pretty heavily for the past month and am not having much luck. Any constructive comments? We have bought quite a few new vehicles in the last 30+ years, but we are hitting a wall this time.
+7snakes: Ultimately the dealer will determine what they believe they can sell a vehicle for based on what people are willing to pay. If the dealers you're working with are not willing to budge, generally that means 1 of 3 things. 1st, they don't believe you are a serious buyer OR willing to negotiate to a purchase (basically they might think you are price shopping and probably won't buy from them regardless), 2nd, they may be price locked by a larger corporate office that isn't allowing them to negotiate to the price you are willing to pay. 3, they may be selling enough vehicles at the price they are asking so they believe someone will pay more than you for whatever vehicle you are looking at. Sometimes, the best option is to look well outside of you area (even hundreds of miles away, if it's worth it to you). If you are trying to trade, that could also be impacting the deal.
Bought a 2018 Ram 2500 Tradesman 4x4 for $33,970 Has a couple options. I like it. Bought it on the 31st of January. Has the 6.4 Hemi and that's what I wanted. But this is exactly how I buy.
We haven’t had a car payment in 20+ years. What we do (I am not saying everyone can’t do this) is we pay ourselves in a savings account to start saving for the next car.
As we often see in ten to twenty year old luxury cars do you think the luxury trim level trucks will be plagued with many of those luxury features breaking and being too expensive and difficult to fix? That's one thing that concerns me with the tech that is packed into a truck these days. Which is a big concern if you plan on keeping these trucks ten to twenty years or when they hit the used market in 5 to 20 years.
By telling them what you want to pay and for how long. Their only way left to scam you before the paperwork for is your interest rate. They don’t always show you your lowest approved interest rate, banks give them money for every point. So go to the credit union first, then waste their time and get approved and work the deal and at the last minute pull out your check.
I’ve never purchased a vehicle from a dealer (being a teen) but I plan on saving up for a new powerstroke. It seems complicated to me but people do it all the time so I’ll have to see when the day comes
Just curious my F350 has the 4:30 and I love the combination when pulling just feels effortless. Love your channel and all the products you give opinions on used a few and intend to purchase a few more. You guys gave some very good points on the purchase process. Has changed my outlook on my next purchase. Keep them coming.
Thank you for this video man, very informative. Question: I am looking to buy a top of the line 2021 Limited Long Horn Ram 3500 dually, the sticker price is 96,500 end I find your video just now, I never bought a new truck before so this is the ultimate car I will ever buy. What discount over the sticker price could I negotiate in your view?
My experiance may be different because I live in Canada, but I've formed some different opinions on car negotiations. 1] never trade your vehicle at the dealership. They must buy your vehicle at a price to make money so its stands to reason you would get more money selling it privately. 2] The low interest rates advertised by car makers are a bit of a scam. Because there is no such thing as free money they add onto the price of a vehicle some of the credit charges in order to to attract buyers. This is why they offer cash discounts. 3] Even if you don't have all of the cash you can still get the cash discount. By going to a bank [and shopping around for the best deal] you can get the cash from the bank and purchase the vehicle in order to receive the discount. I agree with most of the other points mentioned in the video , particularly about the salesman being able to smell a desperate buyer like a shark smelling blood in water.
This coming spring I am planing on using my Ram 2500 to RV transport. My question is what’s the max lift I should have. Or from the bed of the truck to the ground what the max inches. I was told 57-59 inches and ball hitch 20 inches.
+John Loewenstein jr: 56" is generally the rule of thumb. Since bed wall heights have increased so much, you just need to make sure you have at minimum of 5.5" bed rail to fifth wheel overhang clearance.
Big Truck Big RV ok I just check the floor of the bed is 38 and the rails of the bed is at 58. But that’s do to 305/70/17 tires. I’m replacing them with a 265/70/17 I hope that would help both on height and fuel mileage. The tires I have on there now is M/T so I know I’m going to run a H/T tire or a good A/T
I’ll enter at ranchhand. . I saw their news letter where they mentioned your channel in their announcement. Excellent video by the way. I follow many of your points. All too often people end up getting caught up on a vehicle as if it’s the only one ever. They never stop making them and there are often far better deals when you widen your range of dealerships and even over state lines.
Here's a question you might be unique qualified to answer. I like going to the various truck makers websites and playing around with their "build truck" website feature. Can you really buy a truck that you yourself have designed with all the options you want? How does that work? Do you pay half down, the truck comes to the dealership then you pay the other half? Or have a really nice down payment (30%). Just for context I'm looking at the 3500's in the highest trim levels from the big 3.
Generally you only need to put a deposit down. They order the truck and will usually give you about 80% of the incentives and discounts they would give you on a truck they stock.
I'm in the process of working with multiple dealers in ordering a 2018 F450, they always play the game of dealer invoice and have found that they will usually beat the price from Ford website by about 8% , not desperate so I can hold out a bit longer and hope for a better deal, however there's always that assembly line timming that I have to deal with.
Thumbs up. It helps if you live in a big city that has multiple dealerships for that brand of vehicle. When I bought my truck I haggled away at the first dealership and then left with all the figures written down on paper. The second dealership beat it by about a grand and won my buisness.
If you can't find a truck spec'd out to your requirements on the lot or at other joint owned dealer, are their deals to be made on ordering or is that a sticker price proposition?
Im looking for pretty much the exact same truck you have. Say msrp is $83k. What do you think can get it for. I know holdback would be $2500. Some will show you the invoice but it seems take, i looked at a ram 3500 and it was only marked up like 5000 from invoice. In a 83000 truck you think 70k is out of hand?
As someone just starting the homework part of this journey as long as my current vehicle holds up anyways. Also looking at the 4x4 vs 4x2 debate living in Minnesota. Don’t have a boat or any heavy hauling needs
What are the suggestions for a new truck. IE the new Ram 1500 seems to have a lot of great press. How long would you wait to buy given all of the interest in the truck? Does the equipment package on the truck make a big difference in how much you can negotiate?
Tim Michaels: I presume that's a state by state thing. Most of the time 1 tons with a GVRW over 14k will be commercial.. or of course a truck used for a business
Tim Michaels it depends California just made that a standard on all 3500’s bought new after January 1. A 2000 3500 legally you are under that cap. But the current trucks from ram and ford are able when equipped correctly to haul 7,000lbs+ and that’s where they get you. As long as your GVWR is below 14,500 they cannot force you as that bracket is a 4,000registration payment new now
A few things I won't or at minimal pay for. Business office fees... are you kidding I just dropped 50k! Also that if your truck/car is stolen insurance they try sell with he stickers for like $300bucks. NO! the last truck I bought they fought hard to sell it to me, even bringing over the manager (I'm an ex sales guy btw). cuz I had been working the deal by phone with the salesman, I came in with a cheque to the "T" an not a penny more. He was mad but it wasn't my problem. I refuse to pay those fees and will simply walk away. Great tips. Great Vid. Always be prepared to walk. I'll grind the sales guy/dealer for every last nickel. But that's me and I love doing it. :)
I’m going to tell you the dealers dirtiest trick in the book. If they find you financing make sure they go through a credit union and not a bank. If they go through a bank the bank will approve you for let’s say 2.99 % but the dealer will tell them let’s go 4.29% and the bank will cut them a check for the % amount difference of the total length of the loan. So they will get 1.30% more tacked on for them. Trust me they do this I know for a fact.
How do you get a great deal on a Diesel rig? I’m always told that, we don’t have to deal on that engine. Which I know is bull; but makes negotiating very hard. Any suggestions??? Thanks
I understand your answer and appreciated your quick response. I’ve driven a few HD 2500 Dodge Cummins for decades and love the performance of the whole vehicle. My problem is I always end up ordering the rig I want. More a work rig with a manual transmission and I don’t need a rig with all the bells and whistles; which is becoming harder to find in dealers stock/lots. Does your advice stay the same or do I go in with ALL the info that I can get my hands on and start the negotiations?? Plus, I never trade in my old rig. There are always younger gentlemen that are looking for a well taken care of Cummins. Thank you for your help.
My dad had the same problem looking for his reg cab 3/4 ton 8ft bed 4x4 dodge diesel, it took a month of nation wide dealer searches till we found what he wanted for the price he wanted to pay , flew from south Texas to KC drove to Sedalia got truck drove back to Texas so my dad would be happy. It was worth it.
Great video! Likely going to be buying a new truck in the next couple of years and luckily my old man has bought many cars/trucks from both dealers in our town has a good relationship with both so that should make the process pretty easy for me.Very helpful information! Keep up the great videos, best truck channel on TH-cam.
Being a former car salesman, I never understood why vehicles are negotiable but we pay full price for other things or a heavy markup. It’s hard for honest salesman to make a living
I’d rather have teeth drilled then deal with car salesmen. Not looking forward to the truck search. I really do not want to know about trucks to that detailed level, but will do it. I won’t be in a hurry when the time comes. It will be cash though... not going to start debt now.
+Brian Tinner: of course, just not as much. Simply because a dealer is more motivated to sell something that is on their lot (and they are paying inventory taxes on)
Hi!! “Tech-spec” truck question: We are getting a travel trailer with a GVWR 6400#. What would be the ideal axle ratio for our tow vehicle(looking at F-150s)? Thanks in advance!!
Tip one, always secure your own financing (cash or credit union) before hand and do not tell them how you plan to purchase. Tip 2, Do as much negotiating via phone, email, and or text before visiting the dealership. Number 3 cross shop atleast 3 dealerships from different owners and let them know you are doing so. Tip 4 Always be patient and walk away from the deal once they say they are at their lowest possible price if you are not satisfied. Being patient and buying something you can afford will lead to a better overall experience rather than buyers remorse.
Done... Thanks for doing the drawing. Great information here too. I always like to go in with my own financing in hand. I negotiate for a cash price. However, that leads them to typically give me a better deal if I finance through them. Like you said, a long process... Thanks again!!! Pat
The 4th of July weekend usually kicks off the best time of year to buy a car and carries on until the end of the year. According to some experts, the best time to buy is August and September. The reason is dealers began to take delivery of the new models in September and they need the space. Just know that if you decide to wait until October, November or even December, the pickings maybe very slim but you could save even more money. If that truck is on the lot after the year has ended then the dealer has to pay a tax on it. So if you wait until December then you could score big but it is very risky. Below is a link abcnews.go.com/Business/august-best-time-buy-car/story?id=24868594
Hey guys I have a question there a Ford ranger 2011 that has 100 miles on it and the dealer ask 12500 and I went to see the truck and I'm think I should do 11500 and if they don't accept my offer I should walk away right?
I love your content and this is another informative video. However, I must respectfully disagree with you regarding telling the dealer where you want your monthly payment to be. In my view the top three things you can do for making a good deal are 1) Ensure your credit is good (at least 700 FICO) if you will be financing. 2) Like you said, do your vehicle research and know what the "fair market value" of the vehicle is. 3) If you are trading a vehicle in know what your vehicle is worth and what you want for it (make sure you have your vehicle detailed and clean when you take it in for appraisal and have your maintenance records for the vehicle). Don't let the dealer confuse you with mixing the numbers up between your trade and the new vehicle you will be purchasing. Treat the trade in and the price of the new vehicle as TWO separate deals. Just some helpful advice that has served me well over the years. Keep the great videos coming!!
Sam Williams: brother, that's kind of the point of going in with pre-researched figures that you're firm on. If you tell them $250 per month for 60 months, that will equal an exact figure. There is nothing they can do to change the end outcome.
Big Truck Big RV, my truck brother I humbly disagree with you on the payment issue because if you tell the dealer you need $250 a month, he/she will "enhance" the interest rate and increase your payments to 60 months or 72 months and still achieve your goal of $250 a month. As you know if you finance through the dealer, the dealer gets a kickback (0.5-1.0%) of the finance rate. This is why in my humble opinion it is best to go in with pre-approved financing and let the dealer compete for your financing business. NEVER give them a "goal" monthly payment because it is very easy for them to manipulate the length of the contract to meet your needs. Again, I want to emphasize that I love your videos and it's okay if we disagree on this issue. Keep up the good work!
Shew buddy of mine got the new f450 Platinum dually and it wasn't necessarily his dream truck. $85,000 dually. And I'm surprised he could fit in that thing. I mean The guy's like 6'11!
You're talking about all factory and store incentives? I sell Toyota's and will get someone that comes in with a ridiculous offer, like asking for an OTD price 3-4k under our asking price. The way we have our vehicles priced, including holdback, these offers would mean our dealership would lose 7k on the a offer like that.
what if you don't have a vehicle to trade in, but want to negotiate a great price for a 50 - 60k dollar vehicle. what would be the best way to negotiate the price to get a decent monthly financing rate? 🤔
Good video and it is also important to know your credit score and have a good attitude. No one knows how much dealer cash is in the vehicle so your good attitude may convince the salesman to let it go for a cheaper price and only make $500 off the sale instead of trying to make $3,000.
Hi. Long time listener here. I have a gyration. I want to buy a used pickup. How far back in years before I’m running into problems. I realize that’s a tough one to answer but roughly.
Very tough to answer. The condition of a late model vehicle can be poorer than an older vehicle depending on who owned it last. I would generally say, a truck that has a very rust free frame, clean engine, lots of maintenance records, and is clean inside and out would be a good bet.
I have a really important question: I am a member of USAA, as a veteran USAA gives you a printed document that gives you a type of coupon that will knock anywhere from$1,000 to $4, 000 off a vehicles price at particular dealerships. What I can't get answer on is can I negotiate down to there lowest price and then hit them with the USAA discount, saving a lot more money, do you or any of your followers on youtube know if this is possible???????
Generally you will only be able to use your discounts with Factory incentives and discounts. When there are both dealership and factory discounts, they will limit what you can add at the end. I most cases the dealership will match whatever discount you have but make you choose between theirs or yours. Hope that makes sense.
Ok for example if you are looking at the Ford F350 2017 or 2018 and you are willing to pay cash say like $30000.00. Do you think they would make a deal?
I wish I heard this before I bought my Platinum Edition I paid 65k for it. But I hosed them on my trade in. I had a beat up Tacoma that my sister-in-law crashed I glued the pieces back together and used a Sharpie and white paint and came in at night so they couldn't see all the damage they could only see the carfax report showed one accident but I told him it was very minor. They gave me 18500 for the truck with 50, 000 miles I had bought it new for 22000 and drove it for 3.5 years and drilled holes into the bed for my tools and they didn't notice those either. Lol
I just purchased a new Chevy 2500hd 4x4 my first attempt they wouldn't give me enough for my truck and didn't want to drop there price either. I kept an eye on this truck for a few weeks. I called them that I would be coming down to see truck again, they met us at the door, we told them what we wanted for our truck what the payment would have to be and after a half hour of drama they came back to a yes. My old Chevy Silverado was a half ton with 66,299 miles on it and was a 2008 LTD. 4x4. Now here in Florida they go by black book prices. I had first tried to buy an F 250 But they would only give me $16,000. for my truck and I said no deal! Walked away they called me several times but there still was no deal and it was a 2017. The Chevy is 2018 so I'm happy!
I''ve bought a couple for cash. Usually if you're done negotiating the price and then go talk/negotiate with their finance guy, you can often get another $1K or so off to finance through them. Then pay it off in a month.
My father in law managed the local ford for 35 yrs. When i bought my 17 i ordered it the exact way i wanted. Paid 50 bucks over dealer cost. Plus got rebates and incentives. Biggest thing i say is dont buy warranties or desert packages. Waste of money in my opinion. Oh and marry well haha. Best of luck to all of you looking at new trucks.
Wait wait wait are you telling me that an aftermarket/ extended warranty is not s good deal. I just got paperwork from Ford to extend my warranty on my 17 they we're even nice enough to let me finance it. They had pictures of parts and how much they cost and everything. But seriously extended warranty are the biggest rip off ever
Ty Sleight What is surprising is how many people get roped into buying it. Complete nonsense. But, to each his own. If it makes the buyer feel more comfortable with their purchase, who am i to criticize? Thanks for the reply, best of luck!
Never tell them up front what you want for a payment. Just tell them your looking for their best offer and shop them against other dealers because you never know if your leaving money on the table. Another dealer might go into pocket to make quota.
Before I watch I'm going to guess... You say that you'll be buying 3 different duallies in no time and you'll go with the best deal... Then they look at your cowboy grin, spit into a bucket, and then say "boy howdy we ghot ourselves an accord," to which you reply with "not a honda." Now the bank is buying your dealer a yacht for all the interest you kept shovelin towards them after going through trucks so fast the tires still have treat left. I mean this is in a jokingly and sarcastic manner, and not a trollish one.
My wife and I went dealing and ended up getting a salesman fired over his arigance and greed he wouldn't come down 500 dollars and thought we were to stupid to walk across the street to the next dealer , were we got a much better deal . ehhh
You can enter early for the Ranch Hand giveaway drawing: www.ranchhand.com/rhbtbrgiveaway
will i get an email saying that i properly signed up?
Some of the info on the 'terms and condition' as linked to from the giveaway sign-up page don't match what you said in the video...specifically the promotion period and there is no mention of installation being included (unless I missed it somewhere). I'm not complaining at all, just pointing this out.
Big Truck Big RV any chance that you could do a video on how not to buy a flood damaged truck? Thanks.
I suppose it is no longer early to register? Probably not February anymore eh? Haha
Big Truck Big RV WHAT TRUCK DO YOU HAVE
As someone who has done financial counseling, I warn people against shopping based upon payments. Salespersons can add to the length of loans to get the payments down so you end up paying too much. I negotiate the "Tax, Title and Out the door" price and, if they try adding things afterwards, I walk out. I've seen the color go out of a salesperson's face after making a great deal when I wrote a check for the total amount. I don't buy new but 1-2 year old. Let someone else take the depreciation hit.
Roy Davis: I completely and 100% agree. My suggestion to others is to KNOW your payment, term, APR, and don't budge from it BEFORE even entering the dealership. I understand what you are saying and agree. If a buyer allows the Dealership to dictate the terms and length of payments, then the buyer is bound to loose.
Absolutely spot on Roy...Dave Ramsey would be proud :-) You nailed it.
@@hummer4u2nv11
F**k Dave "I'm right all the time" Ramsey. He's a fraud.
You still take a "depreciation hit" even with a used vehicle the moment you drive it off the lot. Say you buy a 2017 Ford F150 for $10,000 dollars. After you take possession of the vehicle, your truck is now worth $8,000 dollars to any dealership (exclude private buyers).
You can avoid an awful lot of the waiting and back and forth with salesmen and managers by simply communicating directly, by e-mail, with the Internet sales manager at the dealership. It might take a few days, and a few e-mails, but you can do it all comfortably from your home or office.
A Marmot can confirm just did this over the past month and yesterday got the deal and package I was looking for via email and phone. Perfect advice.
When I bought my Ram, I told them how much I’m willing to pay just like if you’re bidding on eBay, what’s your Max Bid? Something is only worth what somebody is willing to pay for. I bought a 15 Ram 2500 mega with an msrp of 64,420 and told them I want $12k off. After 4-5 back and forth the manager came and shook my hand. Pick out the Unit BEFORE you step on the lot and what you are willing to pay. Also show up there on the last Saturday of the month because they wanna close out the month and get as many units sold. It is all about how many Units they sell, that is their highest priority, they pay daily interest on every unit getting sun tans.
I shopped between 2 dealers and made sure they knew it. When it was all said and done I got 11k off of my truck. Also ford has truck month and that really is the best time to go due to the incentives.
Arrange financing ahead of time, and use cash as a down payment. That way you instantly have the upper hand at a dealership. It’s no secret you get screwed with your trade in and finance department.
There are four transactions involved in buying a vehicle:
1. The price of the vehicle you are purchasing.
2. The price of the vehicle you are selling the dealership (your "trade")
3. Your down payment.
4. The length of the loan at a certain percentage rate.
If you let the stealership bundle all that together, you won't get your best deal.
If you, a buyer, tell me, a salesman, an amount you want for your "note", you will not get the best deal. I can make a car payment fit your terms and even get you to pay higher. Guaranteed.
So, please don't tell them a payment you are willing to make, and don't let em bundle the four transactions....
Wally Jordan: I respectfully disagree. If I know what my bottom line is on both my trade and the new vehicle as well as what APR, term and down payment I want, I can calculate the the exact payment I am aiming for. This way the dealer has to determine trade value and incentives to match. I see what your saying, but your method is begging for people to make a mistake at the dealer and pay too much.
Oh, Im saying what not to let the salesman do. Those four transactions are part of what is known as the four-square. I "held gross" on many a new and used vehicles back in the day. Also, I could up your payment in your mind and devalue your trade in front of you without saying a word. If you know what you will pay per month that's great. Just don't tell the salesperson or management. i.e., don't let them know you are a payment shopper. Just sayin what my experience as a salesman was...
Dan P that's great. I'm gonna hit you with some interest rate and down payment and talk and talk and talk to you. We'll talk about your hibbies, your kids, your grandkids...etc
I'll find out just how much you want that vehicle and keep talking. Actually I'll get you talking. It's not personal. It's just sales. I'll get you to up your minimum payment, up your down payment, decrease your trade, or make it on the interest.
I can get you to justify to yourself why you need to re-examine your payment amount and increase it. Again, it's not personal. It's just sales. Please never tell them how much your willing to pay monthly or what you think your trade is worth. Let them come to you with numbers and go from there. :)
$2.15 a gallon! Is that gas or diesel? Whatever it is, I just paid $3.69 here for Jerry Brown's special SoCal blend! Oh my goodness, God Bless Texas! I'm ready to move!
emdec55 2.18 regular unleaded and 2.09 for diesel here in mid missouri. 3.69 a gallon whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat,lol.
Good luck living in Cali. It's always cheaper in Texas when it comes to gas or diesel.
Cruz Mascorro So everything in Texas is bigger except the gas prices, sounds like a great place to live.
H&P Customs When i was in The Navy and my friends where from Cali. I said to them that's why you guy's drive little cars because of your gas prices.
emdec55 We welcome you to move here to Texas. Are you moved yet?
Good advise Big. I learned to buy a car from my father-in-law in 1970. He was amazing. With the salesman right there you tell your wife, "Is this the car you want?" and the salesman's eyes will pop out. Next you say. "Now you know if we don't get the right deal we won't get it. Are you OK with that" and your wife says yes. Now you tell the salesman he will need to get the sales manager out here. He will always say :Oh I can handle it. Now you hit him with a low ball offer that you come up with based on your research you did before you hit the lot. You begin your negotiations there. I negotiate the car without a trade. After you come up with an agreed price, then you negotiate a trade value. That is how I do it. Yes, you must be ready to walk off the lot if the right deal is not offered. And lastly when you hit the finance office take absolutely nothing they offer, just the finance man. No insurance, no little extras no matter how good they make it sound.
use the internet and stock numbers. I used the stock numbers of one dealer against another. it worked great got $15k+ off my 2016 RAM 3500. I also was just texting the salesman, had the deal done in about 45 minutes. to me, it's harder for a salesman to b.s you through text or email. I also give them yes/no questions. I found this dealer has this truck for this price, can you beat it, yes or no? that when I give them the stock numbers and price. I used the same practice to help my uncle buy his ram 2500 and was able to knock off around $14k off his sticker. he was way happy, the best he could do was $5k-6k off MSRP. don't get mad or upset. there is a truck with your name and price on it, you might have to travel, but it out there.
Great advice Raymond. got to help my daughter shop for a car.
So true man there out there im in the middle of a couple deals now and I know it can be lower and I'm not budging and won't give them what I will pay.
You should take a trusted friend with you one that won't be afraid of making you mad and stand up and tell you that it's time to walk away. Because going in to a dealer by your self can be scary if you don't know the in,s and out,s of car buying.
Just writing to let you know....I just found your channel...referred by "Keep Your Daydream". I've watched a couple and you are very informative. Thank you, and keep up the great work!
What are your thoughts on a dually pickup truck with a 8' bed and 4 doors f-350 super duty with a slide in camper? Pulling a 48 foot enclosed trailer.
Your negotiating based on monthly payment made a lot of sense. Knowing your numbers on the vehicles makes it work. Never tried that approach but sure seems it would eliminate some of the stress in educating a salesman in the incentives he probably isn't aware of Sales Mgr. should be able to put together. Just get your coffee and be ready for a long afternoon. :)
Absolutely agree. Normally they call within 24hrs to sweeten the deal. Plus you can always get them to remove the destination fee which to me is the biggest scam. Had a car hauler tell me that he hauled for GM and made 3500 per load. Now tell my why I have a destination fee of 985 when he hauled 8 trucks. Lol
A video idea that I haven't seen anyone talk about is what trim packages and options give you the least money lost (highest value retained for the glass half full people) between buying brand new and selling/trading say 50k miles later. It would be useful for people thinking about getting just what they need or upgrading to the next higher trim package/engine option/drive train/ hd vs 1/2 ton because it will retain value better.
Examples:
If a Lariate is worth $8000 more than an XLT will there still be $8000 difference when it's time to go do truck shopping again? Do 4wds, diesel engines, and crew cabs hold their original value difference? Does it vary between brands and models?
Most of this information I agree with, but I totally disagree with negotiating to payment amount as stated at 7:35. Negotiate to a bottom dollar, period, and dont get tied up in their financing games. Do your research ahead of time (like this video explains), get pre-approved at a credit union in advance (on average they have the best rates) and let them work with you on a financing term that meets your budget (dealerships dont care about your budget but your credit union partner is looking out for your best interest) and go to multiple dealerships and force them to give you their best offer (or respond to your offer with their best shot), and go with the best offer. Good advice from Roy Davis below my comment BTW!
Just bought a 2018 Silverado last weekend. It was on sale for 10k off. I bargained them down $5k more and got full trade value. Figures I just bought a ranch hand at trucfitters on Monday for the truck
Worth 10k? And you got it for 5k?!?!
You mentioned getting the right options, transmission etc. Isn't there only te work choices in transmissions, or axle ratios? Either gas or diesel?!?
I'm trying to research for my next truck. I want to get the best truck for my buck!!! Any suggestions?!?
Only thing I don't agree with is negotiating for the monthly payment. Better to negotiate down the actual price of the car rather than for a lower monthly payment. Dealerships can pull a bunch of tricks to lower your payment but still keep the vehicle price high.
lol I hope you realize that negotiated payments determine the final price of the truck. This of course requires doing math before you go to the dealership. Regarding your last line, if I require a monthly payment of $500 with no money down for a maximum of 60 months, how can the dealer do any tricks?
To finance, go to your credit union, then walk into the dealership with a check (you know the limit you have to spend). Usually your credit union will have much better rates than a dealership will.
And then you get no rebates.
Is that you Deputy Dodd??????
Try AAA for financing.
Hey just want to say love your channel. I bought my new truck a year ago. Best time to go is at the end of the month and close to the end of the year when the next year model is coming out. I got my ram 1500 with a msrp of 46k. In September and got it for 12k off the stick.
How is the negotiation different if your interested in ordering the exact truck you want?
Charlietuna49: not much different. Just remember that the dealership isn't as incentified to sell a truck that isn't on their lot. They may not give you all the discounts they might otherwise
Charlietuna. did you ever play football in texas?
Best way o have found to speed up the "negotiation" and get the best deal is buy going through Costco or Sam's club. They take all the back a fourth out of it for you. The dealership will show you MSRP, invoice and then you price. 4 times I have done it the price I paid was on average $2k below the "invoice" AND I was only at the dealership for about an hour or two each time. Friends and family have done this as well with the same result.
All great info. I have a few suggestions. The time of the month that you visit can make a big difference, dealerships can get lower prices on all their vehicles if they meet a monthly sales # or quota.
Visit first in the 3rd week of the month and as Big Truck said, be ready to walk away, but let them know that if something changes in the next week and you haven't purchased yet, they can give you a call.
Also, don't ever be the first one to make an offer on an amount, even if you plan on low balling with the first offer and continue that way, get them to make an offer, the counter, then let them counter, they'll want you to be the first, don't ever switch out of the 2nd position.
BTBR is right about wanting to sell you something on their lot, that can be used b/c if they want to offer you a truck that doesn't have everything you want, but has everything you need (don't let them know which is which), you can use this by your willingness to let something go, like color, but you're really ok with he color they have.
Try to make it fun and again, not only be willing to walk away, but expect to walk away, they'll call if your in the ballpark.
Lastly, if you plan on paying cash, you'd think that they may make a great offer to get the cash, but financing is where dealerships make huge amounts of money off your purchase. Do the financing, and if they give you a good chunk of the price, wait 3 months and pay off the loan, usually the dealership will get credit for the financing and you won't screw them, you have to be fair. On my last purchase, I financed through the dealership at a fairly high rate, but then 3 months later, I got a great rate from my credit union and had them pay off the loan and started with the lower rate and payments.
Hope this helps some of you, Good liuck.
Now I wanna see one on negotiating an RV ;)
That’s an easy one. All they want is how much you’ve got in savings and how much you are willing to put down
That’s a pretty good overview it’s also pretty close to how I’ve purchased vehicles in the past. One thing to mention is always have your finances in order I like my bank and I get the best rate, however what I like to add into the negotiations is to use whatever big 3 financing the dealer is using because the dealer gets money from the finance company then as soon as you sign the loan go straight to your bank and have it taken over by them. That’s just what I do. Great video!
Just picked up a ruby red 2015 450 that was originally sold in TX... hmmmm wonder if it’s your old one! Looks like it used to have a ranch hand on it... extremely well taken care of...
One time I was down to the last $500 and walked. They called me within three blocks of dealership. lol
n2snow haha when I bought my 17 f150 I was walking out the door over 268 .00. They were like are you really going to walk away over that little amount and I was like yes, yes I am that’s a payment. They caved,lol.
😂
was it new or used??...think that makes a difference@@HP.Customs
Is there much negotiating room when it comes to base xl work trucks ? Particularly the super duty.
Another great video.
When I bought a van for my wife we (sales person and i) did the price dance with the sales mgr. I got tired of it so I followed him back to the sales office and talked directly to the sales mgr. And all the wasted time stoped and we came to a price in 5 minutes. And I handed the sales man a check and drove the van home.
Those games they play are a big waste of time. I understand they need to make money to keep the doors open, when they "go talk to their sales mgr. And actually go the water fountain for a drink and think I'm not looking. Wow who do they (sales people) think we are.
Back to your videos great job keep them coming.
I'd like to add some things and if it's redundant info I apologize in advance. My PRO TIPS only apply to straight shooters. Have your own financing (your bank) example: if you have a trade they can tell you that they'll give you a million dollars for your trade-in but the only thing that matters is the "trade difference". When that hits to your liking take the deal, if not tell them where they need to be or walk and try the same at another dealer. A lot of people don't realize that rebates/incentives you get are reimbursed back to the dealer. example: truck is 40,000 with 7500 in rebates, you're all excited and agree to pay the difference of 32.5 believing you got a great deal. Well, they just FULL STICKER'D you because they get that back.
If you're going in planning on paying cash, no trade-in, or you have your own financing you have the advantage. I would wait till late august (new models rolling in, big chance to score on current model year) and even better last day or two of the month (they are trying to hit their goals and are more likely to take a hit just to move the unit) and end of year is another great time because they have to pay ad velorem tax on their remaining inventory however the disadvantage is there are no good incentives on the new next year models and the current year has very limited inventory (your choice's are limited) but they want to get rid of their remaining current year inventory.
One last thing, I am against financing your tag, tax and title but I understand if you cannot afford to write that check after 30 days. Also don't shop a payment ( I'm not saying don't know in your own mind what your max is just don't let them know) example; I have friends that go to the dealer with their current vehicle and tell the salesman as long as my payment isn't more than $600 a month I'll make a deal......ding ding ding score one for the dealership!. Also don't be unrealistic, if you can't afford something don't buy it!
There are MANY variables I'm only trying to give some good advice.
Trying to use this info right now shopping for new trucks. The dealers are not budging from their "internet price" off of the msrp. Most are only showing about $4000-$5000 off msrp. I'm calling and emailing various dealers in my state, but nobody shows signs of taking $8000, or anything even close, from the suggested retail price of a 3/4 ton truck. They are all pretty close in prices to each other. What is going on? Is internet pricing now the norm and nobody is going to deviate from it? Bad time to try to purchase new trucks? Have been working on this pretty heavily for the past month and am not having much luck. Any constructive comments? We have bought quite a few new vehicles in the last 30+ years, but we are hitting a wall this time.
+7snakes: Ultimately the dealer will determine what they believe they can sell a vehicle for based on what people are willing to pay. If the dealers you're working with are not willing to budge, generally that means 1 of 3 things. 1st, they don't believe you are a serious buyer OR willing to negotiate to a purchase (basically they might think you are price shopping and probably won't buy from them regardless), 2nd, they may be price locked by a larger corporate office that isn't allowing them to negotiate to the price you are willing to pay. 3, they may be selling enough vehicles at the price they are asking so they believe someone will pay more than you for whatever vehicle you are looking at. Sometimes, the best option is to look well outside of you area (even hundreds of miles away, if it's worth it to you). If you are trying to trade, that could also be impacting the deal.
You should do an updated video about this subject post covid! I think your head would explode🤯
Bought a 2018 Ram 2500 Tradesman 4x4 for $33,970 Has a couple options. I like it. Bought it on the 31st of January. Has the 6.4 Hemi and that's what I wanted. But this is exactly how I buy.
We haven’t had a car payment in 20+ years. What we do (I am not saying everyone can’t do this) is we pay ourselves in a savings account to start saving for the next car.
this is literally what i do when buying a new vehicle but which do save more on? new or used im guessing used
As we often see in ten to twenty year old luxury cars do you think the luxury trim level trucks will be plagued with many of those luxury features breaking and being too expensive and difficult to fix? That's one thing that concerns me with the tech that is packed into a truck these days. Which is a big concern if you plan on keeping these trucks ten to twenty years or when they hit the used market in 5 to 20 years.
you sound congested. Are you sick? Feel better if you are
raybbj: Very sick. Thank you brother
By telling them what you want to pay and for how long. Their only way left to scam you before the paperwork for is your interest rate. They don’t always show you your lowest approved interest rate, banks give them money for every point. So go to the credit union first, then waste their time and get approved and work the deal and at the last minute pull out your check.
I’ve never purchased a vehicle from a dealer (being a teen) but I plan on saving up for a new powerstroke. It seems complicated to me but people do it all the time so I’ll have to see when the day comes
3 new car salesman have thumbs down this video,lol.
Did you get a chance to pull the rv with the F350 & 4:10 rear now back with F450 & 4:30, feel any difference in comfort while towing.
+Drifter's Den: I did and I couldn't tell a difference
Just curious my F350 has the 4:30 and I love the combination when pulling just feels effortless. Love your channel and all the products you give opinions on used a few and intend to purchase a few more. You guys gave some very good points on the purchase process. Has changed my outlook on my next purchase. Keep them coming.
Thank you for this video man, very informative. Question: I am looking to buy a top of the line 2021 Limited Long Horn Ram 3500 dually, the sticker price is 96,500 end I find your video just now, I never bought a new truck before so this is the ultimate car I will ever buy. What discount over the sticker price could I negotiate in your view?
My experiance may be different because I live in Canada, but I've formed some different opinions on car negotiations.
1] never trade your vehicle at the dealership. They must buy your vehicle at a price to make money so its stands to reason you would get more money selling it privately.
2] The low interest rates advertised by car makers are a bit of a scam. Because there is no such thing as free money they add onto the price of a vehicle some of the credit charges in order to to attract buyers. This is why they offer cash discounts.
3] Even if you don't have all of the cash you can still get the cash discount. By going to a bank [and shopping around for the best deal] you can get the cash from the bank and purchase the vehicle in order to receive the discount.
I agree with most of the other points mentioned in the video , particularly about the salesman being able to smell a desperate buyer like a shark smelling blood in water.
Ditto
Don't go hungry either! Make sure you're ready to spend time during the negotiations.
This coming spring I am planing on using my Ram 2500 to RV transport. My question is what’s the max lift I should have. Or from the bed of the truck to the ground what the max inches. I was told 57-59 inches and ball hitch 20 inches.
+John Loewenstein jr: 56" is generally the rule of thumb. Since bed wall heights have increased so much, you just need to make sure you have at minimum of 5.5" bed rail to fifth wheel overhang clearance.
Big Truck Big RV ok I just check the floor of the bed is 38 and the rails of the bed is at 58. But that’s do to 305/70/17 tires. I’m replacing them with a 265/70/17 I hope that would help both on height and fuel mileage. The tires I have on there now is M/T so I know I’m going to run a H/T tire or a good A/T
I’ll enter at ranchhand. . I saw their news letter where they mentioned your channel in their announcement.
Excellent video by the way. I follow many of your points. All too often people end up getting caught up on a vehicle as if it’s the only one ever. They never stop making them and there are often far better deals when you widen your range of dealerships and even over state lines.
Here's a question you might be unique qualified to answer. I like going to the various truck makers websites and playing around with their "build truck" website feature. Can you really buy a truck that you yourself have designed with all the options you want? How does that work? Do you pay half down, the truck comes to the dealership then you pay the other half? Or have a really nice down payment (30%). Just for context I'm looking at the 3500's in the highest trim levels from the big 3.
Generally you only need to put a deposit down. They order the truck and will usually give you about 80% of the incentives and discounts they would give you on a truck they stock.
I'm in the process of working with multiple dealers in ordering a 2018 F450, they always play the game of dealer invoice and have found that they will usually beat the price from Ford website by about 8% , not desperate so I can hold out a bit longer and hope for a better deal, however there's always that assembly line timming that I have to deal with.
Is 8% decent discount? I'm not looking for a crazy deal.
Thumbs up. It helps if you live in a big city that has multiple dealerships for that brand of vehicle. When I bought my truck I haggled away at the first dealership and then left with all the figures written down on paper. The second dealership beat it by about a grand and won my buisness.
If you can't find a truck spec'd out to your requirements on the lot or at other joint owned dealer, are their deals to be made on ordering or is that a sticker price proposition?
Is this in Corpus Christi?
Spot on!! I need to carry a little giant ladder to used the ladder rack on my cap of my F350.
Im looking for pretty much the exact same truck you have. Say msrp is $83k. What do you think can get it for. I know holdback would be $2500. Some will show you the invoice but it seems take, i looked at a ram 3500 and it was only marked up like 5000 from invoice. In a 83000 truck you think 70k is out of hand?
As someone just starting the homework part of this journey as long as my current vehicle holds up anyways. Also looking at the 4x4 vs 4x2 debate living in Minnesota. Don’t have a boat or any heavy hauling needs
What are the suggestions for a new truck. IE the new Ram 1500 seems to have a lot of great press. How long would you wait to buy given all of the interest in the truck? Does the equipment package on the truck make a big difference in how much you can negotiate?
Question what do you when it rains with that carpet in the bed does it get musty smelling and is it a sponge for water
Do you have any tips on special ordering a vehicle?
Why does DMV automatically categorize 1 ton pickups as commercial?
Tim Michaels: I presume that's a state by state thing. Most of the time 1 tons with a GVRW over 14k will be commercial.. or of course a truck used for a business
Big Truck Big RV
Thanks. I don't use mine "for business" but have hauled things and helped people move.
2000 C3500 LS crew cab. Live in California.
Tim Michaels get a camper shell and you can register as a regular car.
Tim Michaels it depends California just made that a standard on all 3500’s bought new after January 1. A 2000 3500 legally you are under that cap. But the current trucks from ram and ford are able when equipped correctly to haul 7,000lbs+ and that’s where they get you. As long as your GVWR is below 14,500 they cannot force you as that bracket is a 4,000registration payment new now
A few things I won't or at minimal pay for. Business office fees... are you kidding I just dropped 50k! Also that if your truck/car is stolen insurance they try sell with he stickers for like $300bucks. NO! the last truck I bought they fought hard to sell it to me, even bringing over the manager (I'm an ex sales guy btw). cuz I had been working the deal by phone with the salesman, I came in with a cheque to the "T" an not a penny more. He was mad but it wasn't my problem. I refuse to pay those fees and will simply walk away. Great tips. Great Vid. Always be prepared to walk. I'll grind the sales guy/dealer for every last nickel. But that's me and I love doing it. :)
I’m going to tell you the dealers dirtiest trick in the book. If they find you financing make sure they go through a credit union and not a bank. If they go through a bank the bank will approve you for let’s say 2.99 % but the dealer will tell them let’s go 4.29% and the bank will cut them a check for the % amount difference of the total length of the loan. So they will get 1.30% more tacked on for them. Trust me they do this I know for a fact.
H&P Customs of course they do. When they lose $4000 on a truck or an vehicle, it helps them make up the difference
That's why you should always arrange *_your own_* financing before walking into the dealership.
Thanks so much for the info, is it the same for a used car or truck?
How do you get a great deal on a Diesel rig? I’m always told that, we don’t have to deal on that engine. Which I know is bull; but makes negotiating very hard. Any suggestions??? Thanks
Dudley Hamilton: End of year and truck month should get you between $9-12k off of any of the Big3 Diesels.
I understand your answer and appreciated your quick response. I’ve driven a few HD 2500 Dodge Cummins for decades and love the performance of the whole vehicle. My problem is I always end up ordering the rig I want. More a work rig with a manual transmission and I don’t need a rig with all the bells and whistles; which is becoming harder to find in dealers stock/lots. Does your advice stay the same or do I go in with ALL the info that I can get my hands on and start the negotiations?? Plus, I never trade in my old rig. There are always younger gentlemen that are looking for a well taken care of Cummins. Thank you for your help.
My dad had the same problem looking for his reg cab 3/4 ton 8ft bed 4x4 dodge diesel, it took a month of nation wide dealer searches till we found what he wanted for the price he wanted to pay , flew from south Texas to KC drove to Sedalia got truck drove back to Texas so my dad would be happy. It was worth it.
Great video! Likely going to be buying a new truck in the next couple of years and luckily my old man has bought many cars/trucks from both dealers in our town has a good relationship with both so that should make the process pretty easy for me.Very helpful information! Keep up the great videos, best truck channel on TH-cam.
Great info. Any chance on doing a video about rv negotiations? If you have already can you provide a link? Thanks have a bless day
Being a former car salesman, I never understood why vehicles are negotiable but we pay full price for other things or a heavy markup. It’s hard for honest salesman to make a living
I’d rather have teeth drilled then deal with car salesmen. Not looking forward to the truck search. I really do not want to know about trucks to that detailed level, but will do it. I won’t be in a hurry when the time comes. It will be cash though... not going to start debt now.
They are all sleazeballs, all the same coast to coast, border to border.
If one decides to have a vehicle built custom off the website build page, is there still room for negotiating?
+Brian Tinner: of course, just not as much. Simply because a dealer is more motivated to sell something that is on their lot (and they are paying inventory taxes on)
Hi!! “Tech-spec” truck question:
We are getting a travel trailer with a GVWR 6400#.
What would be the ideal axle ratio for our tow vehicle(looking at F-150s)? Thanks in advance!!
Do you have an idea on the mark up on F450?
Tip one, always secure your own financing (cash or credit union) before hand and do not tell them how you plan to purchase. Tip 2, Do as much negotiating via phone, email, and or text before visiting the dealership. Number 3 cross shop atleast 3 dealerships from different owners and let them know you are doing so. Tip 4 Always be patient and walk away from the deal once they say they are at their lowest possible price if you are not satisfied. Being patient and buying something you can afford will lead to a better overall experience rather than buyers remorse.
an f250 cant handle 10,000pds towing safely or i need liter rv?
Done... Thanks for doing the drawing. Great information here too.
I always like to go in with my own financing in hand. I negotiate for a cash price. However, that leads them to typically give me a better deal if I finance through them. Like you said, a long process... Thanks again!!! Pat
What time of year is the best, winter, since the new year stock is coming in?
The 4th of July weekend usually kicks off the best time of year to buy a car and carries on until the end of the year. According to some experts, the best time to buy is August and September. The reason is dealers began to take delivery of the new models in September and they need the space. Just know that if you decide to wait until October, November or even December, the pickings maybe very slim but you could save even more money. If that truck is on the lot after the year has ended then the dealer has to pay a tax on it. So if you wait until December then you could score big but it is very risky. Below is a link
abcnews.go.com/Business/august-best-time-buy-car/story?id=24868594
Hey guys I have a question there a Ford ranger 2011 that has 100 miles on it and the dealer ask 12500 and I went to see the truck and I'm think I should do 11500 and if they don't accept my offer I should walk away right?
I love your content and this is another informative video. However, I must respectfully disagree with you regarding telling the dealer where you want your monthly payment to be. In my view the top three things you can do for making a good deal are 1) Ensure your credit is good (at least 700 FICO) if you will be financing. 2) Like you said, do your vehicle research and know what the "fair market value" of the vehicle is. 3) If you are trading a vehicle in know what your vehicle is worth and what you want for it (make sure you have your vehicle detailed and clean when you take it in for appraisal and have your maintenance records for the vehicle). Don't let the dealer confuse you with mixing the numbers up between your trade and the new vehicle you will be purchasing. Treat the trade in and the price of the new vehicle as TWO separate deals. Just some helpful advice that has served me well over the years. Keep the great videos coming!!
Sam Williams: brother, that's kind of the point of going in with pre-researched figures that you're firm on. If you tell them $250 per month for 60 months, that will equal an exact figure. There is nothing they can do to change the end outcome.
Big Truck Big RV, my truck brother I humbly disagree with you on the payment issue because if you tell the dealer you need $250 a month, he/she will "enhance" the interest rate and increase your payments to 60 months or 72 months and still achieve your goal of $250 a month. As you know if you finance through the dealer, the dealer gets a kickback (0.5-1.0%) of the finance rate. This is why in my humble opinion it is best to go in with pre-approved financing and let the dealer compete for your financing business. NEVER give them a "goal" monthly payment because it is very easy for them to manipulate the length of the contract to meet your needs. Again, I want to emphasize that I love your videos and it's okay if we disagree on this issue. Keep up the good work!
Great information BTBRV. That is normally my problem I at time I am not willing to walk away when I find the perfect vehicle I was looking for.
Shew buddy of mine got the new f450 Platinum dually and it wasn't necessarily his dream truck. $85,000 dually. And I'm surprised he could fit in that thing. I mean The guy's like 6'11!
I got rejected from the dealer on the new 2020 f450. Just too much money the banks wouldn’t loan to me. Super bummed not gonna give up..
You're talking about all factory and store incentives?
I sell Toyota's and will get someone that comes in with a ridiculous offer, like asking for an OTD price 3-4k under our asking price.
The way we have our vehicles priced, including holdback, these offers would mean our dealership would lose 7k on the a offer like that.
Hooee.... Dealerships never lose money.
GREAT video! Gave examples, used REAL NUMBER SCENARIOS, and very descriptive! Good job man
Is gas really 2 bucks a gallon in Texas?
what if you don't have a vehicle to trade in, but want to negotiate a great price for a 50 - 60k dollar vehicle. what would be the best way to negotiate the price to get a decent monthly financing rate? 🤔
Good video and it is also important to know your credit score and have a good attitude. No one knows how much dealer cash is in the vehicle so your good attitude may convince the salesman to let it go for a cheaper price and only make $500 off the sale instead of trying to make $3,000.
Hi. Long time listener here. I have a gyration. I want to buy a used pickup. How far back in years before I’m running into problems. I realize that’s a tough one to answer but roughly.
Very tough to answer. The condition of a late model vehicle can be poorer than an older vehicle depending on who owned it last. I would generally say, a truck that has a very rust free frame, clean engine, lots of maintenance records, and is clean inside and out would be a good bet.
What is an incentive in this context?
And if you can get approved for loan is a big one
Axel Bart: that is true also
I know it took me two years to ger my credit score up and in was able to get a loan through one of the manufacturers
I have a really important question: I am a member of USAA, as a veteran USAA gives you a printed document that gives you a type of coupon that will knock anywhere from$1,000 to $4, 000 off a vehicles price at particular dealerships. What I can't get answer on is can I negotiate down to there lowest price and then hit them with the USAA discount, saving a lot more money, do you or any of your followers on youtube know if this is possible???????
Generally you will only be able to use your discounts with Factory incentives and discounts. When there are both dealership and factory discounts, they will limit what you can add at the end. I most cases the dealership will match whatever discount you have but make you choose between theirs or yours. Hope that makes sense.
Makes sense, thank you.
Ok for example if you are looking at the Ford F350 2017 or 2018 and you are willing to pay cash say like $30000.00. Do you think they would make a deal?
not unless it's a USED 2017 F350 with high miles.
Big Truck Big RV ok thank you.
I wish I heard this before I bought my Platinum Edition I paid 65k for it. But I hosed them on my trade in. I had a beat up Tacoma that my sister-in-law crashed I glued the pieces back together and used a Sharpie and white paint and came in at night so they couldn't see all the damage they could only see the carfax report showed one accident but I told him it was very minor. They gave me 18500 for the truck with 50, 000 miles I had bought it new for 22000 and drove it for 3.5 years and drilled holes into the bed for my tools and they didn't notice those either. Lol
You...my friend...are a FUCKING SAVAGE. That's awesome.
I just purchased a new Chevy 2500hd 4x4 my first attempt they wouldn't give me enough for my truck and didn't want to drop there price either. I kept an eye on this truck for a few weeks. I called them that I would be coming down to see truck again, they met us at the door, we told them what we wanted for our truck what the payment would have to be and after a half hour of drama they came back to a yes. My old Chevy Silverado was a half ton with 66,299 miles on it and was a 2008 LTD. 4x4. Now here in Florida they go by black book prices. I had first tried to buy an F 250 But they would only give me $16,000. for my truck and I said no deal! Walked away they called me several times but there still was no deal and it was a 2017. The Chevy is 2018 so I'm happy!
So...for the 5% of us that MAY want to pay cash, do dealers typically give better deals for a cash transaction or when you finance?
I''ve bought a couple for cash. Usually if you're done negotiating the price and then go talk/negotiate with their finance guy, you can often get another $1K or so off to finance through them. Then pay it off in a month.
+Everett Robertson: yep
That makes perfect sense.
im listening to what u say, but wonder why you are holding up traffic?
My father in law managed the local ford for 35 yrs. When i bought my 17 i ordered it the exact way i wanted. Paid 50 bucks over dealer cost. Plus got rebates and incentives. Biggest thing i say is dont buy warranties or desert packages. Waste of money in my opinion. Oh and marry well haha. Best of luck to all of you looking at new trucks.
Wait wait wait are you telling me that an aftermarket/ extended warranty is not s good deal. I just got paperwork from Ford to extend my warranty on my 17 they we're even nice enough to let me finance it. They had pictures of parts and how much they cost and everything. But seriously extended warranty are the biggest rip off ever
Ty Sleight
What is surprising is how many people get roped into buying it. Complete nonsense. But, to each his own. If it makes the buyer feel more comfortable with their purchase, who am i to criticize? Thanks for the reply, best of luck!
Never tell them up front what you want for a payment. Just tell them your looking for their best offer and shop them against other dealers because you never know if your leaving money on the table. Another dealer might go into pocket to make quota.
SWEET - SIMPLE and TO THE POINT!! Great video!!
Before I watch I'm going to guess... You say that you'll be buying 3 different duallies in no time and you'll go with the best deal... Then they look at your cowboy grin, spit into a bucket, and then say "boy howdy we ghot ourselves an accord," to which you reply with "not a honda."
Now the bank is buying your dealer a yacht for all the interest you kept shovelin towards them after going through trucks so fast the tires still have treat left.
I mean this is in a jokingly and sarcastic manner, and not a trollish one.
My wife and I went dealing and ended up getting a salesman fired over his arigance and greed he wouldn't come down 500 dollars and thought we were to stupid to walk across the street to the next dealer , were we got a much better deal . ehhh
Know what you want,go at the end of month 2 nd to last day,8 pm.they will get it done .