Do the blocks have to butt up? Could you not have the point as an undetected area? I say that because from a prototypical point of view, with the exit not being long enough for a train to sit in and no headshunt either, each yard siding would be separately signalled right through onto the main running line. So the points and yard exit wouldn't be detected. You'd probably also have a catch point in the short straight of the yard exit to prevent anything accidentally getting on to the mainline.
Thank you - but yes, in JMRI all blocks need to be contiguous so it all has to be connected up. It was a pain when I was having to solder them all together, but from a logical running point of view, you have extra data -like when block B goes active, it also means that the loco has just started to exit block A - something that's incredibly useful to me at the moment and that I will try to explain in the next video! Regards, Chris
The pacer unit is a 143, and I think the lesson to learnt here is stick with the Lima, Hornby/Lima class 101 I have a number of them and never had any problems.
Ha, thank you, I think the more important lesson is to learn what trains I'm actually using on my layout! I do have a Hornby class 101 3-car which works really well. Regards, Chris
I've gone back to buying Lima 37s and 47s and DMUs, I'm not paying the vast price for the so called premium models now. And Hornby have made a good job of their Lima models in their R/R plus range.
You could add phosphor-bronze wiper pickups. And / or keep alives. I read that Keep Alives are good for 15 seconds. (More than enough for your double slips.)
Thank you - yeah, I think that keep-alives might be perfect for this problem - I just don't like the idea of them running around the layout and, if there's an issue somewhere, them not stopping when I need them to! Regards, Chris
this sort of "pogo" type connector is fine in industry, issues in OO are down to rubbish component quality, largely have older here, I prefer hard wired - enough slack to remove, or a proper connector maybe but for what these things cost I want them to work they go for trivial details you need a magnifier to check, but cheap out on basic reliability agree on planning, I was hoping to use ABC stuff on Leopard Street, real issue being the documentation doesn't make it clear the size block you need and implies the loco "sees" the signal and reacts without noting it needs to be _entirely_ in the block.. planning and testing.. still going to have short blocks here, also some long ones, yard entry is a single block, but its planned around train movements and I hope it works without problems, when I eventually get that bit fired up time will tell inspired by this automation.. that IR stuff I am planning on doing similar to drive reverse loops where I need to know "something" is there, don't care what though street bit coming on nicely too, planning a good few months of testing once I have full loop running before stuff like rail painting and ballasting goes on though green screen.. that is surprisingly effective have you had any issues with wifi reliability?
Thank you! No, no issues at all with wifi reliability - I have an old wifi router from an expired internet contract sat up there in the loft and it's dedicated to the ESPs. The Arduinos and Galileos are wired. Sounds like you're making excellent planning progress! Regards, Chris
I've heard if you wire the lighting on the locomotives separately from the decoder they run and stop more on the spot every time. I don't run DCC but thought it might help someone with a problem stopping in the same place every time, Someone did do a video explaining what why and how if anyone is interested looking it up, it was a Hornby issue that video.
@WirenwoodModelRailway thinking about it was a DMU or EMU that was the problem with the lighting, they modified the lighting some how and the creeping and stopping inconsistently stopped straight away.
Hi mate ,why have a set of points in a block just power it and isolate it
Hi - afraid JMRI requires all detected blocks to be 'contiguous' - ie connected to each other with no gaps! Regards, Chris
I have hard wired my Bachmann DMUs as I also find the springyness in the copper connections weaken over time.
Excellent, if you have any tips or instructions I'd gladly accept them! Regards, Chris
Do the blocks have to butt up? Could you not have the point as an undetected area?
I say that because from a prototypical point of view, with the exit not being long enough for a train to sit in and no headshunt either, each yard siding would be separately signalled right through onto the main running line. So the points and yard exit wouldn't be detected.
You'd probably also have a catch point in the short straight of the yard exit to prevent anything accidentally getting on to the mainline.
Thank you - but yes, in JMRI all blocks need to be contiguous so it all has to be connected up. It was a pain when I was having to solder them all together, but from a logical running point of view, you have extra data -like when block B goes active, it also means that the loco has just started to exit block A - something that's incredibly useful to me at the moment and that I will try to explain in the next video! Regards, Chris
Would adding a "stay-alive" to your DMUs help?
Hey Jeffroid! Yeah - I think in this particular case, they would! Might have a look into it. Regards, Chris
The pacer unit is a 143, and I think the lesson to learnt here is stick with the Lima, Hornby/Lima class 101 I have a number of them and never had any problems.
Ha, thank you, I think the more important lesson is to learn what trains I'm actually using on my layout! I do have a Hornby class 101 3-car which works really well. Regards, Chris
I've gone back to buying Lima 37s and 47s and DMUs, I'm not paying the vast price for the so called premium models now. And Hornby have made a good job of their Lima models in their R/R plus range.
You could add phosphor-bronze wiper pickups. And / or keep alives. I read that Keep Alives are good for 15 seconds. (More than enough for your double slips.)
Thank you - yeah, I think that keep-alives might be perfect for this problem - I just don't like the idea of them running around the layout and, if there's an issue somewhere, them not stopping when I need them to! Regards, Chris
this sort of "pogo" type connector is fine in industry, issues in OO are down to rubbish component quality, largely have older here, I prefer hard wired - enough slack to remove, or a proper connector maybe but for what these things cost I want them to work
they go for trivial details you need a magnifier to check, but cheap out on basic reliability
agree on planning, I was hoping to use ABC stuff on Leopard Street, real issue being the documentation doesn't make it clear the size block you need and implies the loco "sees" the signal and reacts without noting it needs to be _entirely_ in the block..
planning and testing..
still going to have short blocks here, also some long ones, yard entry is a single block, but its planned around train movements and I hope it works without problems, when I eventually get that bit fired up time will tell
inspired by this automation..
that IR stuff I am planning on doing similar to drive reverse loops where I need to know "something" is there, don't care what though
street bit coming on nicely too, planning a good few months of testing once I have full loop running before stuff like rail painting and ballasting goes on though
green screen.. that is surprisingly effective
have you had any issues with wifi reliability?
Thank you! No, no issues at all with wifi reliability - I have an old wifi router from an expired internet contract sat up there in the loft and it's dedicated to the ESPs. The Arduinos and Galileos are wired. Sounds like you're making excellent planning progress! Regards, Chris
I've heard if you wire the lighting on the locomotives separately from the decoder they run and stop more on the spot every time. I don't run DCC but thought it might help someone with a problem stopping in the same place every time, Someone did do a video explaining what why and how if anyone is interested looking it up, it was a Hornby issue that video.
That's an interesting concept - I'll look it up! Thanks! Chris
@WirenwoodModelRailway thinking about it was a DMU or EMU that was the problem with the lighting, they modified the lighting some how and the creeping and stopping inconsistently stopped straight away.
Bloody frustrations!!, all I'm gonna say is peco unifrog!!
Ha - it's a good recommendation but I'm not sure they do those in Code 100 either! Regards, Chris