Hi John, thanks for the comment. It is a reasonable solution but please execute caution when using it, it's no good for anything accurate and you never really know if it has got a good enough hold until you start cutting, by which time it's too late! Also, they are only really good to use once or twice, they get fatigued fairly quickly. Cheers, Jon
Your design is very clever, the dual purpose makes this a must-have tool worth turning. Thank you for investing your time to make videos, this will serve well.
Hi John, thanks for the comment and feedback. Still need to test this in action but I am very pleased with how it turned out. Thanks for your support. Cheers, Jon
Great work Jon. I will definitely want to make one. The design came to fruition. Perfect example of how a careful thought process leads to a very serviceable manufactured item.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment and feedback. Still need to test it in action but very pleased with it so far, I think it will endure, and I am pretty positive it will endure longer than that so called knurling tool lol. Cheers, Jon
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment. They should be 60 degrees, not aware they have been ground differently but I will check next time I am out in the shop. For the coned Cup, it is largely unimportant but you have got me thinking now. Cheers, Jon
Pretty good Jon, pretty good. Moreover, I see you have got to 963 subscribers, that very well done. You'll soon be giving away that T slot cleaner. I am very impressed, good luck to you! You are doing a brilliant job with these videos.
Hi Del, thanks for the comment and feedback. Hey, the only reason I am doing that well is thanks to the support of all you guys for which I am very grateful indeed. Some (like yourself) have been around since the start, and been kind enough to steer me in the right direction through your very constructive feedback and comments which I appreciate enormously. I have also had a lot of help from Ade of course....... Top man! Cheers, Jon
Another great video and finished product Jon 👌. I'm thinking of modding my centre point ended follower now but I'm waiting with interest to see your special tap holders first.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment and feedback. You won't have to wait long, that's next week's video (for continuity purposes). I think I will put all 3 vids in a 'Tapping' playlist for completeness. Cheers mate and thanks for your continued support. Jon
Hi Jon, just found your channel after a shout out from Ade’s Workshop. Very nice work on the tap follower. I’ve just subscribed and I’m looking forward to checking out the rest of your videos.
Nice one Jon well thought out having the interchangeable ends that centre the tap. I need one of these I've had the same problem you demonstrated for years lol. Tony
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment, yep, it's a common problem, I suffered from it for my first few years in industry as well. I like simple tools that solve repetitive problems and this one certainly does that. It has its limits and M12 will probably be about as big as I would want to go with it, but it will come in very handy for the smaller sizes. Get yourself one made. Cheers, Jon
Got there in the end Jon. Just a thought, you made hard work on the cup end. All the turning and threading with undercuts, why not just have tapped it m5 and used a long socket headed grub screw that was tensile and Loctite it into the cone or cut the head off a long Cap screw that is also tensile. Almost at your 1,000 now, a few more days should see it happen. Regards from Australia.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment and feedback. A good suggestion, however if you look back at where I showed the cone and the depth of it to the bottom, I would have had to make the cup body at least twice the length to have enough stock to drill and tap an M5 hole for the stud, this would mean I would have to remove it each time when I was using the pointed end (and lose it most probably). The design I went for was to make the cone cup and knurled section of the threaded bung as short as possible so it will all just fit straight into a chuck without needing to remove bits. Hope this makes sense, hard to explain in summary words. Thanks for your ongoing support. Cheers, Jon
If you don't like undercuts( who does?) , just put a chamfer or a counterbore in the female thread. Just a by the by thought, but how long before thw wokists complain about the binary sexual connotation of female and male threads?😢😢😢
Hi Jon, Nicely done, especially the beefed up dimentions to suit your commonly used tap sizes. You could use a collet chuck in your tailstock to hold the 16mm shank. Cheers.
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment and suggestion. Yes, I may end up getting (or making) an Er32 collet holder for the tailstock. I am definitely going to get a keyless chuck very soon, that Jacobs one on the lathe is not the best, it came with the lathe but its had a miserable life. Either way I will have a holding method. Cheers, Jon
Hello Jon, A good implementation of a good design... Thank you. Fabulous to see the 1,000 subscriber milestone on the near horizon, well done. Take care. Paul,,
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment and feedback. Yes, I am rapidly approaching a threshold I once thought was completely impossible to reach for someone like me just messing around in my garage! It's been a great experience, if a little time consuming (which you will relate to) but I have enjoyed every minute! You will very soon be in the same position, and deservedly so. Cheers, Jon
You could turn the entire follower end over end and put the small end in a chuck, and put a pointed and threaded adapted pin in the end cap. It will work both ways😀.
Hi Fred, thanks for the comment and suggestion. Yep, I think you are right. When I need to use it in this configuration I will give it a try. Also means I have an instant 50% solution for the lathe as the pin diameter will fit into the chuck. Cheers, Jon
Hi Hill Top, thanks for the comment and support. Me too, it will need a slightly modified design, if I beat you to it you will have a design to consider at least. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, I will definitely making one soon.It helps to see the whole thought process from the start.Saves time and disappointment for a restarting machinist like myself.Thanks for all your effort!
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment and feedback. Glad you are getting value out of my ramblings! A tap follower is not the most important tool in the shop, but as I demonstrated when tapping the M12 thread, life can be made so much easier with this simple to make tool. Cheers, Jon
Hi Steve, thanks for the comment and support. Yep, that knurling tool is $hite. It just about copes if you don't need to move the saddle for a longer knurl (as in this case). The moment you do, it's like it's made of plasticine as it all starts waving and wobbling about. Some things require paying top dollar for, let's call it a learning experience lol. I will be designing and making my own replacement. Cheers, Jon
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. Yep, this would work. I guess the only downside is to make the cup piece fit to the body to avoid losing it, could be done but would be a bit more involved. In reality, I haven't yet had to change it over, I just use the cup end all the time as I rarely go above M12. Cheers, Jon
What ho Grasshopper, Very nicely done, even the knurling. Now just to be snarky for a bit, (who me?) noticing the strain tapping M12 thread, aren't you guilty of what you complained designers do to productionists by over specifying tolerances? An m12 thread can take load in the tonnes range, but you only need a few tens of grams. You need 12mm of size but you could have drilled 11 or 11.5 and still have a strong enough thread but way easier to tap. Many beginners think the tapping size charts are gospel but they really are not, not implying you are a beginner you understand. 😂😂😂 ATB and looking forwsrd to the 1K by next week, you deserve it.👍 c
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment and welcome calibration. You are spot on, I could have made life much easier for myself. I have noticed in fact, when you watch any Australian channel, the numbers they work to in their books seem much bigger for tapping drills than we get in our reference material. I am sure this isn't related to the direction of rotation of water down the plug hole! It was drummed into me during my apprenticeship that you "follow the numbers", it's a hard habit to break but you are bang on. Thanks for your unwavering support on my journey to stardom. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop re apprenticeships and any other teaching should bear in mind, using parting on a lathe as an example, a good teacher will tell you not to use a tail centre when parting. A better teacher will tell you why you shouldn't use a tail centre so you can make your own mind up about when it is ok, or beneficial. Dogma in teaching stifles creativity, teaching should open the mind to what is possible not stop you thinking for yourself. I shall now step down from my soapbox and contemplate sleep.
This is a nice twist on commercially available designs as it gives versatility across the various types of tap heads: why aren't they all standardised?! One question, which chemical blacking do you use? I have only had limited success with these products a usually end up using a propane torch and a dunk into used engine oil.
Hi Graham, thanks for the comment. Yep, dead pleased with the end result, it works great. I use Black OX from Caswell Europe and if you check out my "Making vice clamps for the mill vice part 2" video, I show the bottle and the process I use. Success is all about cleanliness, no skin contact following thorough de-grease. Also depends on the grade of material, the softer and higher carbon content the better. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jon
Great video, and an excellent design! I really learned a lot, Jon, so many thanks. By the way, what is the cutting lubricant/coolant that you were using?
Hi Walter, thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed it. I am using Smith & Allen soluble cutting oil (ebay). Cheap end of the range but ideal when you run total loss system as I do. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jon
Hi, nice work but I have one question, how do you fit your tap wrench on when using the cone, it didn't look like it would fit as it was too deeply recessed.?
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment and question. I covered this right at the end of the video, I am going to be making some bespoke tap wrenches based on Joe Pieczynski's design for holding further down the tap shank. This will be next week's video so hopefully it should be a bit clearer then . Cheers, Jon
Hi Howard, lol, that's probably too polite, but yes in the right general direction! I think if I had said what I was thinking, YT would probably take my channel down. Cheers, Jon
Hi Graphic man, thanks for the comment. Yes, the shoulder inside the tube and the pin diameter that comes out the end of the tube are the two contact surfaces. It works very well with this twin support. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop aha i got it now, that make much more sense however i think the design could be a lot simpler than this, the screwing/unscrewing is a bit of work, i did make one will show it to u once i make the video, u will be surprised about its simplicity, now there is a much bigger problem with ur design, the concave side, only very small tab does have a cone instead of a 60 deg center hole, for that ur concave side has to be much much smaller because only very little shows out of the tap holder, in ur design this is far to be used IMHO otherwise i dont know what taps/holder u r using thank for ur respond
@@GraphicManInnovations Hi, understand your concern, however this follower was designed to be used together with some special tap wrenches, please watch my "Making tap wrenches" video to see how it all works together. If you also watch my "Making a Flame Licker Part 1" video, you will see me using an M2 Tap with the follower. This unit will work on all taps from M1 up to the biggest tap available when used with the tap wrenches I made. Also, most of the tapping I do is below M12, so the cone end of the follower does them all. If I need a bigger tap, it's about 20 seconds to swap over. Hope this helps explain. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop yup just saw it now, makes sense now, your channel deserve more views, keep it up and thanks for your responses, one last thing, what exact type of steels/condition have u been turning to make these?
Nice job Jon 👍👴🏻
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated mate, Cheers, Jon
Very nice , I like the split nut trick for holding .
Hi John, thanks for the comment. It is a reasonable solution but please execute caution when using it, it's no good for anything accurate and you never really know if it has got a good enough hold until you start cutting, by which time it's too late! Also, they are only really good to use once or twice, they get fatigued fairly quickly. Cheers, Jon
Your design is very clever, the dual purpose makes this a must-have tool worth turning. Thank you for investing your time to make videos, this will serve well.
Hi John, thanks for the comment and feedback. Still need to test this in action but I am very pleased with how it turned out. Thanks for your support. Cheers, Jon
Great design
Hi Toni, thanks for the feedback and support of the channel, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
That came out great , nice job . Cheers .
Hi Max, thanks for the comment. Still got your sketch handy in case we need a Mk2 following testing. Cheers, Jon
Brilliant, love your videos
Hi Mike, thanks for the feedback and support of the channel, much appreciated, Cheers, Jon
Thanks Jon for another great video. Best wishes.
Hi Stephen, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Excellent video and well explained thanks for sharing Jon.
Hi Gary, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated mate. Cheers, Jon
Great work Jon. I will definitely want to make one. The design came to fruition. Perfect example of how a careful thought process leads to a very serviceable manufactured item.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment and feedback. Still need to test it in action but very pleased with it so far, I think it will endure, and I am pretty positive it will endure longer than that so called knurling tool lol. Cheers, Jon
Jon - well planned and well executed -- thanks for sharing !
Hi Jim, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
HI JON,NICEE ONE , LIKE THE LOOK OF IT . REGARDS RICHARD. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Hi Richard, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated and glad you enjoyed it. Cheers, Jon
ONLY 28 SUBSCRIBERS TO HIT 1,000! CONGRATZ🌷
Hi Lorie, thanks for the comment and support, yep, not long to go now😉Cheers, Jon
Turned out nice Jon. Looks like your spot drills are 90 degrees!
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment. They should be 60 degrees, not aware they have been ground differently but I will check next time I am out in the shop. For the coned Cup, it is largely unimportant but you have got me thinking now. Cheers, Jon
Very nice !!
Really enjoyed this video, very useful tool ! Nice one Mr Jon 😀👍🏻
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment and feedback and for your ongoing support. Cheers, Jon
Pretty good Jon, pretty good. Moreover, I see you have got to 963 subscribers, that very well done. You'll soon be giving away that T slot cleaner. I am very impressed, good luck to you! You are doing a brilliant job with these videos.
Hi Del, thanks for the comment and feedback. Hey, the only reason I am doing that well is thanks to the support of all you guys for which I am very grateful indeed. Some (like yourself) have been around since the start, and been kind enough to steer me in the right direction through your very constructive feedback and comments which I appreciate enormously. I have also had a lot of help from Ade of course....... Top man! Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop lol no can't forget Ade. It was he who pointed me to your channel in the early days.
Another great video and finished product Jon 👌. I'm thinking of modding my centre point ended follower now but I'm waiting with interest to see your special tap holders first.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment and feedback. You won't have to wait long, that's next week's video (for continuity purposes). I think I will put all 3 vids in a 'Tapping' playlist for completeness. Cheers mate and thanks for your continued support. Jon
Hi Jon, just found your channel after a shout out from Ade’s Workshop. Very nice work on the tap follower. I’ve just subscribed and I’m looking forward to checking out the rest of your videos.
Hi John, thanks for the comment and you are very welcome here. I hope you find the content interesting enough to stick around 😉 Cheers, Jon
Nice one Jon well thought out having the interchangeable ends that centre the tap. I need one of these I've had the same problem you demonstrated for years lol. Tony
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment, yep, it's a common problem, I suffered from it for my first few years in industry as well. I like simple tools that solve repetitive problems and this one certainly does that. It has its limits and M12 will probably be about as big as I would want to go with it, but it will come in very handy for the smaller sizes. Get yourself one made. Cheers, Jon
Got there in the end Jon. Just a thought, you made hard work on the cup end. All the turning and threading with undercuts, why not just have tapped it m5 and used a long socket headed grub screw that was tensile and Loctite it into the cone or cut the head off a long Cap screw that is also tensile. Almost at your 1,000 now, a few more days should see it happen. Regards from Australia.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment and feedback. A good suggestion, however if you look back at where I showed the cone and the depth of it to the bottom, I would have had to make the cup body at least twice the length to have enough stock to drill and tap an M5 hole for the stud, this would mean I would have to remove it each time when I was using the pointed end (and lose it most probably). The design I went for was to make the cone cup and knurled section of the threaded bung as short as possible so it will all just fit straight into a chuck without needing to remove bits. Hope this makes sense, hard to explain in summary words. Thanks for your ongoing support. Cheers, Jon
If you don't like undercuts( who does?) , just put a chamfer or a counterbore in the female thread.
Just a by the by thought, but how long before thw wokists complain about the binary sexual connotation of female and male threads?😢😢😢
Hi Jon, Nicely done, especially the beefed up dimentions to suit your commonly used tap sizes. You could use a collet chuck in your tailstock to hold the 16mm shank. Cheers.
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment and suggestion. Yes, I may end up getting (or making) an Er32 collet holder for the tailstock. I am definitely going to get a keyless chuck very soon, that Jacobs one on the lathe is not the best, it came with the lathe but its had a miserable life. Either way I will have a holding method. Cheers, Jon
I like the design Jon. Well thought out. I will make one of these. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, I am late getting to this, apologies. Thanks, Jon
Hello Jon,
A good implementation of a good design... Thank you. Fabulous to see the 1,000 subscriber milestone on the near horizon, well done.
Take care.
Paul,,
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment and feedback. Yes, I am rapidly approaching a threshold I once thought was completely impossible to reach for someone like me just messing around in my garage! It's been a great experience, if a little time consuming (which you will relate to) but I have enjoyed every minute! You will very soon be in the same position, and deservedly so. Cheers, Jon
You could turn the entire follower end over end and put the small end in a chuck, and put a pointed and threaded adapted pin in the end cap. It will work both ways😀.
Hi Fred, thanks for the comment and suggestion. Yep, I think you are right. When I need to use it in this configuration I will give it a try. Also means I have an instant 50% solution for the lathe as the pin diameter will fit into the chuck. Cheers, Jon
I need to make one for larger taps at some point.
Hi Hill Top, thanks for the comment and support. Me too, it will need a slightly modified design, if I beat you to it you will have a design to consider at least. Cheers, Jon
I like it, i think i might make one tomorrow, well i will try lol. Great Job Jon, Very Clever idea.
Hi George, thanks for the comment, pretty easy build this one, but so useful. Cheers, Jon
Super clever design. Thanks
Hi Joel, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, I will definitely making one soon.It helps to see the whole thought process from the start.Saves time and disappointment for a restarting machinist like myself.Thanks for all your effort!
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment and feedback. Glad you are getting value out of my ramblings! A tap follower is not the most important tool in the shop, but as I demonstrated when tapping the M12 thread, life can be made so much easier with this simple to make tool. Cheers, Jon
First time here. Good design, good build. Subscribed.
Hi Jamie, thanks for the comment and welcome to the channel. Cheers, Jon
Super 😀👍
Hi, thanks for the comment, feedback and support of the channel. Cheers, Jon
Turned (pardon the pun) out really nice Jon! Getting close to 1000 subs now! Thanks for the great content. Cheers, Morgan
Hi Morgan, thanks for the comment, feedback and your ongoing support in helping me make stardom! Lol. Cheers, Jon
Very nicely done. That knurling tool lol 😂 to be fair the knurl looked pretty good.is it still going in the bin. Thanks for the vid👍👍👍👍
Hi Steve, thanks for the comment and support. Yep, that knurling tool is $hite. It just about copes if you don't need to move the saddle for a longer knurl (as in this case). The moment you do, it's like it's made of plasticine as it all starts waving and wobbling about. Some things require paying top dollar for, let's call it a learning experience lol. I will be designing and making my own replacement. Cheers, Jon
Great video. Could you make a pointy end with a 5mm thread to save taking the tap follower apart each time?
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. Yep, this would work. I guess the only downside is to make the cup piece fit to the body to avoid losing it, could be done but would be a bit more involved. In reality, I haven't yet had to change it over, I just use the cup end all the time as I rarely go above M12. Cheers, Jon
What ho Grasshopper,
Very nicely done, even the knurling.
Now just to be snarky for a bit, (who me?) noticing the strain tapping M12 thread, aren't you guilty of what you complained designers do to productionists by over specifying tolerances? An m12 thread can take load in the tonnes range, but you only need a few tens of grams. You need 12mm of size but you could have drilled 11 or 11.5 and still have a strong enough thread but way easier to tap. Many beginners think the tapping size charts are gospel but they really are not, not implying you are a beginner you understand. 😂😂😂
ATB and looking forwsrd to the 1K by next week, you deserve it.👍
c
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment and welcome calibration. You are spot on, I could have made life much easier for myself. I have noticed in fact, when you watch any Australian channel, the numbers they work to in their books seem much bigger for tapping drills than we get in our reference material. I am sure this isn't related to the direction of rotation of water down the plug hole! It was drummed into me during my apprenticeship that you "follow the numbers", it's a hard habit to break but you are bang on. Thanks for your unwavering support on my journey to stardom. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop re apprenticeships and any other teaching should bear in mind, using parting on a lathe as an example, a good teacher will tell you not to use a tail centre when parting. A better teacher will tell you why you shouldn't use a tail centre so you can make your own mind up about when it is ok, or beneficial.
Dogma in teaching stifles creativity, teaching should open the mind to what is possible not stop you thinking for yourself.
I shall now step down from my soapbox and contemplate sleep.
Great design, great video, please be careful with loose clothing (sleeves) around your lathe and other rotating machinery. Very hazardous practices!
This is a nice twist on commercially available designs as it gives versatility across the various types of tap heads: why aren't they all standardised?! One question, which chemical blacking do you use? I have only had limited success with these products a usually end up using a propane torch and a dunk into used engine oil.
Hi Graham, thanks for the comment. Yep, dead pleased with the end result, it works great. I use Black OX from Caswell Europe and if you check out my "Making vice clamps for the mill vice part 2" video, I show the bottle and the process I use. Success is all about cleanliness, no skin contact following thorough de-grease. Also depends on the grade of material, the softer and higher carbon content the better. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jon
Great video, and an excellent design! I really learned a lot, Jon, so many thanks.
By the way, what is the cutting lubricant/coolant that you were using?
Hi Walter, thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed it. I am using Smith & Allen soluble cutting oil (ebay). Cheap end of the range but ideal when you run total loss system as I do. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jon
Hi, nice work but I have one question, how do you fit your tap wrench on when using the cone, it didn't look like it would fit as it was too deeply recessed.?
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment and question. I covered this right at the end of the video, I am going to be making some bespoke tap wrenches based on Joe Pieczynski's design for holding further down the tap shank. This will be next week's video so hopefully it should be a bit clearer then . Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop thanks for the reply, I was watching on the TV and commented on my phone and the vid didn't finish. Thanks again.
Does the description of that knurling tool sound similar to piece of sheet?
Hi Howard, lol, that's probably too polite, but yes in the right general direction! I think if I had said what I was thinking, YT would probably take my channel down. Cheers, Jon
only the shoulders on the moving pins are in contact inside the tube?
Hi Graphic man, thanks for the comment. Yes, the shoulder inside the tube and the pin diameter that comes out the end of the tube are the two contact surfaces. It works very well with this twin support. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop aha i got it now, that make much more sense however i think the design could be a lot simpler than this, the screwing/unscrewing is a bit of work, i did make one will show it to u once i make the video, u will be surprised about its simplicity, now there is a much bigger problem with ur design, the concave side, only very small tab does have a cone instead of a 60 deg center hole, for that ur concave side has to be much much smaller because only very little shows out of the tap holder, in ur design this is far to be used IMHO otherwise i dont know what taps/holder u r using
thank for ur respond
@@GraphicManInnovations Hi, understand your concern, however this follower was designed to be used together with some special tap wrenches, please watch my "Making tap wrenches" video to see how it all works together. If you also watch my "Making a Flame Licker Part 1" video, you will see me using an M2 Tap with the follower. This unit will work on all taps from M1 up to the biggest tap available when used with the tap wrenches I made. Also, most of the tapping I do is below M12, so the cone end of the follower does them all. If I need a bigger tap, it's about 20 seconds to swap over. Hope this helps explain. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop yup just saw it now, makes sense now, your channel deserve more views, keep it up and thanks for your responses, one last thing, what exact type of steels/condition have u been turning to make these?