Tap Follower
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ส.ค. 2024
- This is a quick video on how to make and not to make a tap follower. I would like to thank my father for all his help in making this video.
Here is the link to the drawings:
www.dropbox.com/s/c9khctuf21s...
Please Note: I am a beginning machinist and I do not pretend to know everything. Please always operate machinery in a safe manner and if you don't know, find a reliable source. DO NOT COPY ME. I make a lot of mistakes. I provide these videos for entertainment only. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I looked at many designs and found yours to be the most elegant. Made 2. Thanks.
That is really great to hear. I am glad someone, out there is getting something from my videos. I appreciate you taking the time to tell me that you liked it.
Nice design, I need a couple more , thanks for the video, cheers!
Thanks. I am glad someone finds my channel useful. I hope information is clear enough. If you have any questions, I would be happy to answer them. Cheers.
Face, then center drill, or better yet spot drill, followed by drilling an undersized short section 1/2-3/4” is enough. Bore this section for a close fit to the size of the drill that will follow. This acts as a drill bushing for the drill that fits it. Only boring give a hole to the true center line of the lathe.
Thanks for the great tips. This was one of my very early videos, but there is so much to learn in the field that you'll never know it all.
hello Robert. Yes definitely a nice design. Will make a couple and avoid Threading the Plunger - making it a one piece. Now to convert to our Metric Sizes and work nearest to Your Drawing - already downloaded and hard copied.
Thanks a stack for this. Much appreciated. Oh BTW, will really need a very small Boring Bar to bore most accurately and that will be a challenge on our 14"/16" heavy Lathes.
Once again, Thanks a stack for this. Much appreciated
ATB
aRM
I should really do my designs in both standards. I'm glad it helped.
I don't know if it would help in this case but you can true up a hole by using a centre drill as a single lip cutter. I shall explain, put the centre drill in the tailstock chuck with the cutting edges horizontal, approach the hole and when they touch push the drill chuck away from you using the tool post. What will happen is the far flute will cut without wobble truing up the start of the hole. This is a really old machinists "trick" that is worth putting in the arsenal of techniques for future use.
Thanks for the really helpful advise. I have never heard of the solution you are suggesting. I'll have to try it out and thanks again for taking the time to share it.
@@DudleyToolwright you are welcome, if you can't pass snippets you have learned over a lifetime of fiddling with mechanical things, where would we be?
Well you got lucky I did the same thing a broke the big bit and ruined the part. So later I saw a video on “drilling on a lathe” it was a vintage class room type films to video. You need to step you sizes bigger, the first if you starting drill brakes face off Start fresh. If you can’t start over compound a boring to make it match as if you did the starting drill hole. The first drill only needs to take out what the web of the bigger drill can’t cut. Thanks for sharing
Thank you for sharing. I appreciate the thoughts. It is amazing how little has changed in the last hundred years regarding the basics of machining.
MKII was a lot better thought out. I just couldn't work out why you needed to use tool steel first time round. It's an essentially non moving part and not going to wear. I'd be lazy and bronze weld the collar on the spindle. Is the 30° included angle the norm for a tap follower? I have always assumed it would be 60°. A very nice, and totally useful project though, so thank you for sharing.
I used tool steel because I had intended on hardening the point. The confusing 30 degree comment was referring to the angle off of parallel. I apologize for being confusing. The total angle is 60 degrees as you suggest. I like the welding solution. I just enjoy threading bits.
Hello Robert, Any reason you designed the plunger in two pieces rather than turning a single body? Turning two diameters and tapering it seems a bit more efficient? I am going to do this as my store bought leave a bit to be desired however I will make a longer stroke and two or three sizes for different taps (small, medium, large). Good video. Interesting about the smaller bit deflecting. I wonder if there wasn't a 'hard spot' in the tool steel, or if it didn't work harden as the small bit went in deflecting it? Take care. Doug
I am not sure where you are going with the single body idea, but I am intrigued. I would love to know more. I always enjoy that fact that no matter how you see a design come together, someone else will have a completely different take on the same idea. I hope you share. If your design turns out to be better we all win. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Hello Robert
Hello Robert. I would concur with what Douglas Thompson Esq. says and I will definitely make the plunger in one piece. For one, nothing to loosen inside with all the usage and two, like he says, efficient as well as a more compact and rigid finish. I will follow him in making a couple of Sizes. One we made before was a mammoth Sizer.
aRM
To drill a most accurate holes in work piece, use boring bar. Start with centre drill. Then drill with small drill. Then use boring tool to bore to size of next drill and now you would have a perfectly centered hole. The finish drill bit will follow the start hole pretty well. Much better than just depending on drill bits and centre drills only. This technique is actually very common.
Thanks. Quite helpful and I really appreciate the comments.