Hi Sue and A1auto folks, Thank you for remaking this video with torque specs! I bought the suspension kit from you and got it done. Much appreciated. Thank you and thank you.
Generally good instructions, but with some show-stopping deficiencies that I had to correct in order to complete the job on my 2001 V70 base model (no turbo). Read on to find out how; you will be glad that you did :). Removal was pretty much as per the video. The only change I made was to use a jack under the brake rotor for the final step to lift the wheel assembly out of the way so the old joint could be lifted out.. This made the task a lot easier. Installation was much more difficult than expected and required additional steps to complete successfully, as described below. (1) I sourced the replacement aftermarket part locally. Having read the reviews on the A1 Auto website, I knew that the end of the ball joint to be inserted is sometimes too tight, so I took the precaution of measuring it with a vernier caliper and comparing it with the old part. It was about .008 inches too big, so I was expecting it to be much too tight and indeed it was; there was no way I could seat it properly. I then struck on the idea of grinding it down to size using a grinding wheel in an electric drill. This, together with frequent measurements of my progress using the vernier caliper, worked really well. It took perhaps 10 minutes to get the maximum diameter within .002 inches of the old part, at which time I tried again to install it. It was still a bit tight and could have used a bit more grinding, but it went in without too much trouble, so was good enough :) (2) After the above step was completed, I found it quite impossible to get the stud of the ball joint into the control arm. Perhaps the suspension on my car has a longer travel than the one in the video? Anyway, the solution was to remove the two big bolts that hold wheel assembly to the strut, after which the assembly could easily be lifted up to allow the stud to fit into the control arm. Note: before doing this, I had to pop the ABS sensor wire out of its nylon clip to give the assembly room to move; it comes out easily with the help of a screwdriver.
Thank you for the advice. One question: Why using the jack under the rotor (when you slid out the old ball joint) does not work for sliding it in back after the installation?
I like it how you are using everyday tools that most people will have instead of using specialist tools that people can't afford keep up the good work I'm subscribing definitely😎
I’m doing this tomorrow with a friend who’s an old mechanic. It helps a lot that I’ve seen this clip (I’ll watch it again a few times) so that I know what he’s talking about when we start. Also, I never use a Torque wrench when I change my tyres (and we do that twice a year due to the law that says we need to have winter tyres in the winter) Thank you.
You don't need to take it off the axle. I took the joint first out of the control arm by lifting the hub out of the control arm hole with a jack cushioned by a board. I feared that that would result in the control arm snapping up but there is little tension (you can push it down with your hand) so it just tapped against the boot of the ball joint. The I removed the two bolts and hammered and pried a thin chisel between the joint housing and hub like in the video, after which it fell out. Haven't put it back together yet but that seems easier than having to worry about mounting the hub back on the axle.
I was wondering how to do this on my 04 without a press. Thanks! This will make it much easier. Btw, I was cringing when she was hitting the ball joint thread with the prybar. Lol.
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +Crashjr86
You always start with the lower Ball joint nut, according to Volvos instructions...then you press down on the control arm with a pry bar, then it is easy to get the ball joint looose...
Torque Specs please? Your axle video had torque specs given. Can you provide the ball joint torques? Thanks for the great videos. I hit a curb , busted the end of my control arm off, bent subframe. NEed to figure out how to properly support engine and remove subframe in my dirveway and junkyard for the part. Here's to DIY !! Only paid $1500 for my 2004 XC70 so not worth paying someone else. I do most all my own car work.
a couple suggestions here........ when driving the old ball joint out, use some sort of spacers to avoid it rocking in & out as you drive from side to side. Upon installing the new joint, do not drive it in at an angle. You're basicly installing a cylinder into another cylinder & the angle is 'making the joint bigger' than the hole it's going into, which could crack the contol arm. Snug the bolts evenly, then tap the joint side to side with the Brass Drift....snug...tap...snug...tap etc etc until properly seated. Also use the brass to beat on the threads
No no no! I don't like this "cylinder into another cylinder" piece of advice. Offset it. The reason she went in at an angle initially was to counter another problem before it happens. If you go straight in the ball joint jams because the bolts pull up on it unevenly. Assuming you're using hand tools and don't have an air hammer...
A job well done and an easy to follow instructions. My only criticism I personally wouldn't of lifted the wheel to that height. Lower the car down to the height of the wheel. Well that's how we do it here in europe But yeah job well executed.
+zig zag Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Good to see a girl working on a car am about to do my ball joint it is just a bummer, but at 70 I am working on my V70 how coincidental cheers all,,,, by tom copland Ayr Scotland.
I just replaced both lower control arms on the front of my 2004 Volvo S60 and the brunt of the job was just getting the ball joint nut off. Unfortunately for me, both counter torque inserts in the bolt were completely warn away (so it was basically just a hole with no grip for the hex torques fitting). My way around it was to use a vise grip that that made contact with both sides of the knuckle of the control arm where the ball joint bolt went through. I had to clamp the vice grip enough so that it would hold tightly the parts of the ball joint that wanted to spin as I would loosen the bolt. As long as you use a 18mm wrench and not an impact driver to slowly loosen the nut, it works perfectly. Just thought I'd mention an alternative way to get the nut off rather than cutting it off.
+Lukas Rutkauskas It is highly recommended any time when you replace suspension parts to get the vehicle aligned. This will ensure that it is safe and the new parts you install of the vehicle will wear correctly.
yes but it dont matter as it better to use anti seize on that area so it will come apart nice and ez next time.. just did mine today . few hour job well atleast in the north east rust belt
3:34, steel and aluminium don't go well together, nicked in no time. Surely Volvo have special tools for this? I've never been a fan of the hammer-and-chisel approach, especially the way you're hammering on the threads (11:57). I like the stud idea (13:35).
You will find the lip if you scrape off the dirt covering it. A tip for later if it's hard to maneuver the ball joint stud back into the control arm is to remove the strut bolts. Then it's easier to lift the hub.
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Hi Sue and A1auto folks, Thank you for remaking this video with torque specs! I bought the suspension kit from you and got it done. Much appreciated. Thank you and thank you.
Generally good instructions, but with some show-stopping deficiencies that I had to correct in order to complete the job on my 2001 V70 base model (no turbo). Read on to find out how; you will be glad that you did :).
Removal was pretty much as per the video. The only change I made was to use a jack under the brake rotor for the final step to lift the wheel assembly out of the way so the old joint could be lifted out.. This made the task a lot easier.
Installation was much more difficult than expected and required additional steps to complete successfully, as described below.
(1) I sourced the replacement aftermarket part locally. Having read the reviews on the A1 Auto website, I knew that the end of the ball joint to be inserted is sometimes too tight, so I took the precaution of measuring it with a vernier caliper and comparing it with the old part. It was about .008 inches too big, so I was expecting it to be much too tight and indeed it was; there was no way I could seat it properly. I then struck on the idea of grinding it down to size using a grinding wheel in an electric drill. This, together with frequent measurements of my progress using the vernier caliper, worked really well. It took perhaps 10 minutes to get the maximum diameter within .002 inches of the old part, at which time I tried again to install it. It was still a bit tight and could have used a bit more grinding, but it went in without too much trouble, so was good enough :)
(2) After the above step was completed, I found it quite impossible to get the stud of the ball joint into the control arm. Perhaps the suspension on my car has a longer travel than the one in the video? Anyway, the solution was to remove the two big bolts that hold wheel assembly to the strut, after which the assembly could easily be lifted up to allow the stud to fit into the control arm. Note: before doing this, I had to pop the ABS sensor wire out of its nylon clip to give the assembly room to move; it comes out easily with the help of a screwdriver.
If you buy the original $30 dolars at fcp euro will fit like a glove.
Thank you for the advice. One question: Why using the jack under the rotor (when you slid out the old ball joint) does not work for sliding it in back after the installation?
Hi Sue, great video! Why do you use a brass punch as opposed to other materials?
Thanks!
I like it how you are using everyday tools that most people will have instead of using specialist tools that people can't afford
keep up the good work I'm subscribing definitely😎
VERY clear and helpful. Thanks. That ball joint is a real toughie.
I’m doing this tomorrow with a friend who’s an old mechanic. It helps a lot that I’ve seen this clip (I’ll watch it again a few times) so that I know what he’s talking about when we start.
Also, I never use a Torque wrench when I change my tyres (and we do that twice a year due to the law that says we need to have winter tyres in the winter)
Thank you.
+Thellbro Thanks for the tip!
Thanks!got it done.Turning the wheel to the left really helps.
You don't need to take it off the axle. I took the joint first out of the control arm by lifting the hub out of the control arm hole with a jack cushioned by a board. I feared that that would result in the control arm snapping up but there is little tension (you can push it down with your hand) so it just tapped against the boot of the ball joint. The I removed the two bolts and hammered and pried a thin chisel between the joint housing and hub like in the video, after which it fell out. Haven't put it back together yet but that seems easier than having to worry about mounting the hub back on the axle.
+Armin Petschelt Thanks for the feedback!
How did you do while mounting the new ball joint?
@@lev1g he’s probably still working on it
I was wondering how to do this on my 04 without a press. Thanks! This will make it much easier. Btw, I was cringing when she was hitting the ball joint thread with the prybar. Lol.
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +Crashjr86
@@1AAuto I'm doing strut, ball joints, bearings, and sway bar links at the same time tomorrow. It'll be easier with everything off at once.
Yes she loves to damage cars. Look at what she did when removing a volvo front bumper
Hello, the torque for the 18mm nut at the ball joint is 50Nm AND 35 degrees. You can see it in the Volvo manual.
Why did you put in first the axle bolt and then put the bolt joint screw into the control arm rather than the other way around? Thank you!
You always start with the lower Ball joint nut, according to Volvos instructions...then you press down on the control arm with a pry bar, then it is easy to get the ball joint looose...
Do you need to take off the axle later on?
Torque Specs please? Your axle video had torque specs given. Can you provide the ball joint torques? Thanks for the great videos. I hit a curb , busted the end of my control arm off, bent subframe. NEed to figure out how to properly support engine and remove subframe in my dirveway and junkyard for the part. Here's to DIY !! Only paid $1500 for my 2004 XC70 so not worth paying someone else. I do most all my own car work.
stabilizer bar on the top fender rails like $80 at H freight.. you can use it too to do the steering rack youll need it..
a couple suggestions here........ when driving the old ball joint out, use some sort of spacers to avoid it rocking in & out as you drive from side to side. Upon installing the new joint, do not drive it in at an angle. You're basicly installing a cylinder into another cylinder & the angle is 'making the joint bigger' than the hole it's going into, which could crack the contol arm. Snug the bolts evenly, then tap the joint side to side with the Brass Drift....snug...tap...snug...tap etc etc until properly seated. Also use the brass to beat on the threads
+Lugin4 GuviStf Thanks for checking us out. 1AAuto.com
No no no! I don't like this "cylinder into another cylinder" piece of advice. Offset it. The reason she went in at an angle initially was to counter another problem before it happens. If you go straight in the ball joint jams because the bolts pull up on it unevenly. Assuming you're using hand tools and don't have an air hammer...
Yes with a lift it’s great...on your back with a jack....takes 3 hours longer
I'm sure Steely Dan wrote a song about that
So much easier when having a lift
A job well done and an easy to follow instructions. My only criticism I personally wouldn't of lifted the wheel to that height. Lower the car down to the height of the wheel. Well that's how we do it here in europe But yeah job well executed.
+zig zag Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
you won't work on my car either
Good to see a girl working on a car am about to do my ball joint it is just a bummer, but at 70 I am working on my V70 how coincidental cheers all,,,, by tom copland Ayr Scotland.
I just replaced both lower control arms on the front of my 2004 Volvo S60 and the brunt of the job was just getting the ball joint nut off. Unfortunately for me, both counter torque inserts in the bolt were completely warn away (so it was basically just a hole with no grip for the hex torques fitting). My way around it was to use a vise grip that that made contact with both sides of the knuckle of the control arm where the ball joint bolt went through. I had to clamp the vice grip enough so that it would hold tightly the parts of the ball joint that wanted to spin as I would loosen the bolt. As long as you use a 18mm wrench and not an impact driver to slowly loosen the nut, it works perfectly. Just thought I'd mention an alternative way to get the nut off rather than cutting it off.
+Swandoherty Thanks for the feedback and tips!
Exactly! Now I will go outside and try again :)
Hey what brand of torque wrench are you using
1 they sold about 4 yrs ago ..i wanted 1 but $400 was a bit out of my budget .
Good mechanic.
+Legan81 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Thank you.good info
I love how you didn't need any special ball joint tools.
When you started you had an old LCA. Towards the end it was new. Is there a video for replacing the LCA?
Whats that?
What is this thing with European cars having wheel bolts? of my 5 european cars 4 have wheel nuts and only one has wheel bolts.
What year are they? Older Volvos has nuts, where as newer ones has bolts.
you dont have an awd xc70 / v70 on which you change the haldex? :/
Hi, do you neer a wheel alignment after ball joint replacement?
+Lukas Rutkauskas It is highly recommended any time when you replace suspension parts to get the vehicle aligned. This will ensure that it is safe and the new parts you install of the vehicle will wear correctly.
What about 2004 xc70 p2 ? Thx
is it the same on p2 s60?
Yes...exactly the same
11:59 Did the end of the bolt scrape the inside of the recess?
yes but it dont matter as it better to use anti seize on that area so it will come apart nice and ez next time.. just did mine today . few hour job well atleast in the north east rust belt
3:34, steel and aluminium don't go well together, nicked in no time. Surely Volvo have special tools for this? I've never been a fan of the hammer-and-chisel approach, especially the way you're hammering on the threads (11:57). I like the stud idea (13:35).
what does one do this job if there is no 'lip' provided to put your drift onto to tap ball joint down ?
i'm sure my car had no lip ?
You will find the lip if you scrape off the dirt covering it.
A tip for later if it's hard to maneuver the ball joint stud back into the control arm is to remove the strut bolts. Then it's easier to lift the hub.
Thats why she used a brass punch. So the Al won't be damaged when she hits the seam.
Hello Sue. Would me married me? ❤