Hi Mark didn’t even think about this thanks for running through it! I have just purchased a TDS monitor on Amazon should be arriving soon. Will be using it for sure. So helpful all this so thanks again and keep them coming!
Hey Oliver. Not a problem... hope you found it helpful. They are a good tool to begin to fine tune things once a tank is settled down. I will be uploading a follow-up video (part two) to cover various ways to improve TDS within aquariums (and within tap water) later this week (once I finish the video at this end) . Again, thanks for your support. Best, Mark
Many thanks and I hope all is well with you. I was wondering who would be the first to say I'm going to get one of those. The winner's medal goes to you! :) Best wishes, Mark
Yep, i know! You will also find exactly the same products being sold with different branding for different prices. But, my friend, they all basically do the same thing. I would get one that states an accuracy (+ or - 2%). I would suggest one that is waterproof (submersible) so if you do happen to drop it into the aquarium it will still continue to work! I now have two - I got another one more recently that has a lit LED screen - easier to see/read.
Many thanks for watching Peter and for the ongoing support. Much appreciated. I have a slight feeling that I may be getting a lot of comments from people trying to solve TDS issues! Lol. :)
Great video Mark covering something I didn't even know or think about. I've ordered one and went for one at the higher price you indicated. I've already got a gut feeling my water isnt going to be up to the mark so Im very sure I will also need to watch your next video! Thanks, Pete.
Many thanks Pete. Hopefully, you will find TDS another useful measurement to use for your aquarium. It can only be used as "indicative" but it should let you know if you need to make adjustments to your water. My next video will cover what you could try if things aren't looking the way you would hope. New video coming out shortly, and hopefully ahead of your TDS meter gets delivered! Contact me if there are any problems. Best, Mark
Another great video I set my biorb tube 9 gallon up, I love it, should I also add another filter in it? I have guppies. Thank you I also order TDS on Amazon today.
Hi Donna. Great to hear that all is set-up and running well. Guppies are very sweet and can tolerate a broad range of conditions ! I have Endler's and they are really great too. When you say "add another filter" - what do you mean? Yes, a TDS meter is a good thing to have - let me know if your readings aren't what you need and I will be happy to advise/ help. Thanks for watching and also for your support to this Channel. Nice to hear from you and best wishes to you and your guppies, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb should I put another type filter in the biorb, along with the biorbs filter my other tank was a glass basic tank and I always had 2 filters running.
Ah, I'm with you now. :). I think the answer is no... in the case of a biOrb. The central (mechanical) sponge filter is more than sufficient for a biOrb and is how they are designed to work. In most other typical aquariums the (sponge) filter system provides the area where beneficial bacteria (BB) colonise. However, in a biOrb the "biological filter" (area for bacteria) is instead provided by the ceramic media. The media is where most of the BB are to be found. So, the biOrb sponge filter is simply there for trapping waste materials from your fish and waste food.
As always, many thanks for watching and your support Chris. TDS meters are a useful addition to the normal water testing and can throw-up things that you wouldn't normally pick-up through water test kits. The next video will cover how to alter (or at least reduce) TDS issues... as I'm sure there will be a few people who may need to do that. The video description I have also added provides a bit more detail than the video (as the video is aimed at just covering the basics). I'm glad you found it helpful. Take care. Best, Mark BTW I have sort of looked at affiliate links but haven't got to taking that next step yet. Perhaps one day! :)
Great information. Thank you. Did you already post the other video on what to do if your reading is really high? I’m just curious. I can’t find it. I don’t have this TDS reader at this point but I’ll be looking into getting it. Thank you.
Hi again. The video called "Poor Tap Water?" is the follow on and is the one that covers things than can be done to get TDS levels down (99% of people tend to need to lower TDS rather than raise) It all depends on the quality of your tap water - you might not need one if your water is about right for your betta. TDS meters are really good things to have and are great for doing a very quick water test once a tank is reasonably matured (avoids the need for constantly doing normal water tests - I rarely do proper water tests as my tanks are reasonably stable from week to week, and I just rely on TDS). Many lower cost TDS readers on the market are a bit unreliable in terms of accuracy though and can give some strange readings. The very best I've found (the one I use but is not shown in the video) is the Hanna Primo which is brilliant and never fails (but it comes at a fairly high price!). You might be able to find out what the typical TDS is of your water supply on line. You can also visit your water suppliers website which will allow you to get water quality for your post code. If so, just do a quick check on the average pH and average nitrate levels.
Hi Peter. Yes, it's the way to go. You still need a water test (either strips or API Test Kit) but once an aquarium is reasonably established using TDS saves on alternative regular testing . Thanks for supporting my Channel, much appreciated. Best, Mark.
Hello Mark. I've received and used the ZeroWater filtration unit (5.2 liters) and unfortunately (because of the high TDS level of my tap water) the filter got clogged already after 10 liters. So I have to return it. The TDS in the tank is decreased from about 500 ppm to 360 ppm but of course this value wil increase again over time. I think the TDS meter included with the ZeroWater system is a bit of a joke. It measures about 11% wrong comparing to my calibrated Milwaukee TDS meter (a very fine TDS meter by the way) and it can't be calibrated. I measured the pH after 2 days and it was increased from about pH 7.6 to 8.1. Too high for the fish but what to do? Lack of buffer I think. Is it best to find some fish that can survive in a higher TDS range like the Platys? Maybe you have some advice which type of fish that can live in this environment and together with the Platys. The Harlequin Rasboras still seem to do well despite the high TDS. But the next types of fish need to be some that can live in a high TDS range. I don't want to invest in a RO/DI system which I think is overkill. Thanks Mark /Roel
Hi Roel. Sorry to hear you are struggling with the zerowater and TDS. I am a bit surprised you only managed to get 10 litres from the filter! I would expect far more from a filter ...even at 500pm. It could be that you have been supplied with a faulty filter. Yes, I agree with you about the zerowater TDS meter. They are only low budget items and I never use the one I got from them and always stick to my Primo. The zerowater TDS meter got thrown away a long time ago. So, your true pH is fairly high, this reflecting your hard water (high TDS). Pozzani do a hard water filter that should work to lower things, although I have never used one. They have a good technical support service which is worth calling for advice if you planned to go in that direction. My advice: It comes down to what I always advise in my videos... that it is far easier to choose fish that are compatible with your water supply/quality (rather than trying to alter water to match specific fish species). You need to look at high pH/GH species. In all cases, they would be shoal species and work best in a minimum group of about 6 fish. For a biOrb, the ones I would consider are (not in any specific order!): Tetra (mainly X-Ray, Congo); Guppy/Endler's; Molly; Platy; Barb (mainly Odessa); Sword Tails. You should find all of these would be happy with your water supply. To note: we are mainly talking about live bearer species so there is the added risk of successful breeding, with some being far more productive than others. Where possible go with males only. Hope that helps. Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you Mark. I'll keep these fish in mind next time I'll purchase other ones. The pH raised from 7.6 to 8.1 while the TDS decreased from 500 to 360 ppm. What do you think will function best: the combination of pH 7.6 and TDS 500 or pH 8.1 and TDS 360 ppm ? And another question: do you have plans to make more videos in the future? Roel
I would normally expect true pH to raise compared to initial tap. This will be more representative of the tank's water pH. Interesting that the TDS reduced in the sample... is that a test following stirring the sample water (i.e. some elements in the water providing the TDS would settle in still water providing a reduced reading). I think either of those two readings is fine for the fish species I suggested. Yes, planning to do more videos. Currently bogged down with long term ongoing testing methods relating to diatom reduction (which is the topic I plan to cover next as diatoms is a regular issue raised through the Channel). M
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark. I forgot to mention that I only measured the true pH from the sample. The TDS was measured directly in the tank and has reduced because of the partial water shift with ZeroWater.. But thanks for your help and I look forward to future videos. Roel
Hi Mark. My tank, the fish and the snails are doing fine and all the parameters are just right. I also lowered the TDS from about 520 to 275 ppm (pH is 7.4). Therefore I don’t understand why the water isn’t as crystal clear anymore as it was in the beginning. The last few weeks it has become slightly cloudy. Just a little bit but enough to wonder what the reason can be. I do a 1/3 part water change once a week: is this ok or maybe to often? I change the filter + airstone once a month and do a vacuum clean every 2 months. The only product I use is Tetra Aquasafe. Do you have an idea what the problem can be and how to solve it? Best regards Roel
I have 3 tds meters. Lol it is also necessary to know a lot about the water when growing orchids. Does the water purifier and the beneficial bacteria raise the tds? Do you use distilled water or zero water? My tap is about 245. I don't know if its safe to use my unfiltered tap for the aquarium.
Hi Darcy. A water purifier should generally lower TDS. Beneficial bacteria largely occupy the surface of things in the tank rather than being dissolved and in suspension so their presence wont really add, but their conversion of ammonia and nitrite to nitrate will. I use zerowater which uses a 5-stage filter system to remove organic and non organics from tap (the water produced is very similar to RO DI systems used for larger aquariums). You can use distilled water too in the same way (to cut tap water). Both will show a reading of zero on a TDS. Your tap is a little bit on the high side but that also depends on the chosen fish species. Cutting your tap water with a quarter of distilled or zerowater would reduce everything in your water (including nitrates) by one quarter. So, this would reduce your TDS to around 184 ppm - which is a much better level to work with and can be kept in check through weekly water changes. Hope that helps. Best, Mark
Re my comment on TDS and fish species. For example, guppies actually prefer a TDS range which is much higher than your tap water. If you had guppies there would be little point in reducing your TDS. However, guppies can tolerate a TDS range of 200 to 1000 ppm so they would be a very good choice of fish for your TDS, as it stands, without alteration.
Hello Mark, sorry about all this confusion but my TH-cam profile has been a bit strange the last weeks. Hope it's ok now. What I would like to share with you is that the Hanna Instruments PRIMO TDS Tester is not available anymore so I want to ask you if you have any experience with the Milwaukee pH and TDS meters. I've seen some different TDS pens on milwaukeeinstruments but I'm not sure which range will be the best for measuring the water quality in an aquarium: one with a low range (0-999 ppm), one with a middle range (0-1999 ppm ) or one with a high range (0-10000 ppm). Maybe you can take a look? They also sell pH meters in different versions. Is there one you can advise? And is it an idea to get an "all in one" meter with both pH and TDS measuring? Thanks in advance and best /Roel
Hi Roel. Sorry to hear you've had TH-cam issues. I think I did reply to this one but i'm not sure it went. I'll try again... The Hanna PRIMO is a great product and it is a shame if they have stopped producing it. All the Hanna TDS testers are very good but they are expensive! Milwaukee also make good testers so they are a good alternative to Hanna. The key thing for a good tester is to get one that automatically compensates for temperature as TDS readings vary in accordance to temperature. I would guess that all of the Hanna and Milwaukee testers have this. On the Milwaukee web site they have a drop down list of products for aquarium use. For freshwater testing you would probably be testing tank TDS in a range of 0-500ppm. The high range product 0 to 10000 seems to have a massive range and is probably an overkill and you might not get such accurate testing with the lower ranges. In terms of digital pH testers I prefer not to use them and stick with API water testing for pH. If your tank water if pH7.0 and above you should find you have reasonably stable pH with any variation being small and within a suitable range for your fish. Regular digital testing might not be all that necessary. The key issue is that most good pH testers tend to need regular calibration, with many of them needing calibration before each testing. I'd soon get bored with having to keep calibrating just to establish that my pH hasn't changed! If you are wanting to under digital pH testing as well as TDS I would go with getting one that is expensive rather than a low budget one. Or, instead, go with having two testers rather than a single one that is trying to do everything. Either way re-calibration is still likely to be needed on the more accurate pH systems. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you very much Mark. The only answer I got is this one so I just stick to this profile since the other one doesn't seem to work anymore. Your answer surely helps and I think I'll drop the pH tester. I use them at work and they are indeed complicated (boring 😄) because of the calibrating proces. But I must admit that the API testing also can be tedious... Do you calibrate your TDS meter? So I'll just purchase a TDS meter. Do you have any experience with the JBL ProScan (strips)? Best to you, Roel
Hi again. Glad you got the previous response. Yes, I'd drop the pH tester - I have two lowish cost ones and I don't trust the readings and don't use them! Pro type (lab) pH testers work great but cost a fortune! As I mentioned pH doesn't tend to fluctuate much at all in my tanks, so it is a test I only do occasionally. My tap water is 7.2 to 7.4 but the "true pH" (i.e. 2 day standing water pH test) is 7.6 - which is the same as the pH in my tanks. For the most part, my TDS doesn't need calibrating, but I do it every now and again using the Hanna liquids. With the Hanna TDS tester it somehow works out (when you dip it into the liquid) that that you are calibrating it and then it just calibrates and corrects itself. If only everything in life was that simple! I know people that have tried out the ProScan and they have said they have got variable readings (when the test is repeated). Results are not the same as API. Varied reviews on it on Amazon too. People have even tested it out on RODI water and it can still show the presence of ammonia, nitrate etc (which shouldn't be the case with RODI water). API would correctly show 0 for these. Some people think it is good but there is probably a broader view that it is a great idea but the product needs some accuracy improvements. M
I have just used my meter and I'm reading 1579 and was OMG! Until I realised the fish shop man advised the use of salt as he says his tanks are all treated with it. I have mollies and Guppies and one pleco (was worried about salinating him a bit). Can you let us know your views on salt?
Hi. Sorry for the delay in responding. I’m out of the UK at the moment and have limited access to wifi. That a very high TDS. The use of salt is much debated. I am of the opinion that it should only be used when needed (for applying treatments to solve a problem. I can sort of see why your supplier uses salt - mainly to limit disease and bacteria etc. If using salt you must use aquarium salt which is designed for that purpose. Salt in the aquarium can slowly build in the tank (over time) as salt is not removed by evaporation and isn’t necessarily removed during water changes. You would need to monitor your water salinity to ensure that it isn't slowly increasing. Also, always dissolve aquarium salt in dechlorinated water before adding to the tank. As I mentioned above, I fall into the "don’t use it unless it is really needed" category. Best, Mark
Hi Mark, I’ve just added fish to my new biorb using colony and now the ppm has spiked to 500ppm from 108ppm should I do a water change or use easybalance?.
Hi Lisa. What are your overall readings for each of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in the aquarium. I'm not sure your readings are correct. Is the reading you provided for ammonia and, rather than 500ppm, do you mean 5.0ppm or 0.50ppm ammonia?
Great and helpful vídeo! Best regards from Portugal!
Many thanks for watching Goncalo. Nice to hear from you again. Best, Mark
Hi Mark didn’t even think about this thanks for running through it! I have just purchased a TDS monitor on Amazon should be arriving soon. Will be using it for sure. So helpful all this so thanks again and keep them coming!
Hey Oliver. Not a problem... hope you found it helpful. They are a good tool to begin to fine tune things once a tank is settled down. I will be uploading a follow-up video (part two) to cover various ways to improve TDS within aquariums (and within tap water) later this week (once I finish the video at this end) . Again, thanks for your support. Best, Mark
Very helpful Marc… Definitely going to buy one of those TDS monitors 👍
Many thanks and I hope all is well with you. I was wondering who would be the first to say I'm going to get one of those. The winner's medal goes to you! :) Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb problem is there are so many on Amazon… I’m not sure what one to get
Yep, i know! You will also find exactly the same products being sold with different branding for different prices. But, my friend, they all basically do the same thing. I would get one that states an accuracy (+ or - 2%). I would suggest one that is waterproof (submersible) so if you do happen to drop it into the aquarium it will still continue to work! I now have two - I got another one more recently that has a lit LED screen - easier to see/read.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks Marc ☝️👌
Thanks again Mark for very useful info. Like other comments I'm going to buy a TDS meter and await for next video.
Many thanks for watching Peter and for the ongoing support. Much appreciated. I have a slight feeling that I may be getting a lot of comments from people trying to solve TDS issues! Lol. :)
Great video Mark covering something I didn't even know or think about. I've ordered one and went for one at the higher price you indicated. I've already got a gut feeling my water isnt going to be up to the mark so Im very sure I will also need to watch your next video! Thanks, Pete.
Many thanks Pete. Hopefully, you will find TDS another useful measurement to use for your aquarium. It can only be used as "indicative" but it should let you know if you need to make adjustments to your water. My next video will cover what you could try if things aren't looking the way you would hope. New video coming out shortly, and hopefully ahead of your TDS meter gets delivered! Contact me if there are any problems. Best, Mark
Another great video
I set my biorb tube 9 gallon up, I love it, should I also add another filter in it? I have guppies.
Thank you
I also order TDS on Amazon today.
Hi Donna. Great to hear that all is set-up and running well. Guppies are very sweet and can tolerate a broad range of conditions ! I have Endler's and they are really great too. When you say "add another filter" - what do you mean? Yes, a TDS meter is a good thing to have - let me know if your readings aren't what you need and I will be happy to advise/ help. Thanks for watching and also for your support to this Channel. Nice to hear from you and best wishes to you and your guppies, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb should I put another type filter in the biorb, along with the biorbs filter my other tank was a glass basic tank and I always had 2 filters running.
Ah, I'm with you now. :). I think the answer is no... in the case of a biOrb. The central (mechanical) sponge filter is more than sufficient for a biOrb and is how they are designed to work. In most other typical aquariums the (sponge) filter system provides the area where beneficial bacteria (BB) colonise. However, in a biOrb the "biological filter" (area for bacteria) is instead provided by the ceramic media. The media is where most of the BB are to be found. So, the biOrb sponge filter is simply there for trapping waste materials from your fish and waste food.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Ok thank you so much, just wanted to check, this is my first biorb aquarium.
And wanted to make sure.
Thanks for another great video. I'm off to buy a TDS meter. FYI If you put affiliate links in the description I would happily use it.
As always, many thanks for watching and your support Chris. TDS meters are a useful addition to the normal water testing and can throw-up things that you wouldn't normally pick-up through water test kits. The next video will cover how to alter (or at least reduce) TDS issues... as I'm sure there will be a few people who may need to do that. The video description I have also added provides a bit more detail than the video (as the video is aimed at just covering the basics). I'm glad you found it helpful. Take care. Best, Mark
BTW I have sort of looked at affiliate links but haven't got to taking that next step yet. Perhaps one day! :)
Great information. Thank you. Did you already post the other video on what to do if your reading is really high? I’m just curious. I can’t find it. I don’t have this TDS reader at this point but I’ll be looking into getting it. Thank you.
Hi again. The video called "Poor Tap Water?" is the follow on and is the one that covers things than can be done to get TDS levels down (99% of people tend to need to lower TDS rather than raise) It all depends on the quality of your tap water - you might not need one if your water is about right for your betta. TDS meters are really good things to have and are great for doing a very quick water test once a tank is reasonably matured (avoids the need for constantly doing normal water tests - I rarely do proper water tests as my tanks are reasonably stable from week to week, and I just rely on TDS). Many lower cost TDS readers on the market are a bit unreliable in terms of accuracy though and can give some strange readings. The very best I've found (the one I use but is not shown in the video) is the Hanna Primo which is brilliant and never fails (but it comes at a fairly high price!). You might be able to find out what the typical TDS is of your water supply on line. You can also visit your water suppliers website which will allow you to get water quality for your post code. If so, just do a quick check on the average pH and average nitrate levels.
Poor Tap Water, thank you. I was looking for something TDS in the title. That’s my fault. I’ll watch that next. Thank you for your quick reply.
Getting one of these, looking on Amazon now! Might save on the test strips cost, can see if it's ok before wasting one every day. Thanks Mark.
Hi Peter. Yes, it's the way to go. You still need a water test (either strips or API Test Kit) but once an aquarium is reasonably established using TDS saves on alternative regular testing . Thanks for supporting my Channel, much appreciated. Best, Mark.
Hello Mark.
I've received and used the ZeroWater filtration unit (5.2 liters) and unfortunately (because of the high TDS level of my tap water) the filter got clogged already after 10 liters. So I have to return it.
The TDS in the tank is decreased from about 500 ppm to 360 ppm but of course this value wil increase again over time.
I think the TDS meter included with the ZeroWater system is a bit of a joke. It measures about 11% wrong comparing to my calibrated Milwaukee TDS meter (a very fine TDS meter by the way) and it can't be calibrated.
I measured the pH after 2 days and it was increased from about pH 7.6 to 8.1. Too high for the fish but what to do? Lack of buffer I think.
Is it best to find some fish that can survive in a higher TDS range like the Platys? Maybe you have some advice which type of fish that can live in this environment and together with the Platys.
The Harlequin Rasboras still seem to do well despite the high TDS.
But the next types of fish need to be some that can live in a high TDS range. I don't want to invest in a RO/DI system which I think is overkill.
Thanks Mark
/Roel
Hi Roel. Sorry to hear you are struggling with the zerowater and TDS. I am a bit surprised you only managed to get 10 litres from the filter! I would expect far more from a filter ...even at 500pm. It could be that you have been supplied with a faulty filter.
Yes, I agree with you about the zerowater TDS meter. They are only low budget items and I never use the one I got from them and always stick to my Primo. The zerowater TDS meter got thrown away a long time ago.
So, your true pH is fairly high, this reflecting your hard water (high TDS). Pozzani do a hard water filter that should work to lower things, although I have never used one. They have a good technical support service which is worth calling for advice if you planned to go in that direction.
My advice: It comes down to what I always advise in my videos... that it is far easier to choose fish that are compatible with your water supply/quality (rather than trying to alter water to match specific fish species).
You need to look at high pH/GH species. In all cases, they would be shoal species and work best in a minimum group of about 6 fish. For a biOrb, the ones I would consider are (not in any specific order!): Tetra (mainly X-Ray, Congo); Guppy/Endler's; Molly; Platy; Barb (mainly Odessa); Sword Tails. You should find all of these would be happy with your water supply. To note: we are mainly talking about live bearer species so there is the added risk of successful breeding, with some being far more productive than others. Where possible go with males only.
Hope that helps.
Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you Mark. I'll keep these fish in mind next time I'll purchase other ones.
The pH raised from 7.6 to 8.1 while the TDS decreased from 500 to 360 ppm.
What do you think will function best: the combination of pH 7.6 and TDS 500 or pH 8.1 and TDS 360 ppm ?
And another question: do you have plans to make more videos in the future?
Roel
I would normally expect true pH to raise compared to initial tap. This will be more representative of the tank's water pH.
Interesting that the TDS reduced in the sample... is that a test following stirring the sample water (i.e. some elements in the water providing the TDS would settle in still water providing a reduced reading).
I think either of those two readings is fine for the fish species I suggested.
Yes, planning to do more videos. Currently bogged down with long term ongoing testing methods relating to diatom reduction (which is the topic I plan to cover next as diatoms is a regular issue raised through the Channel).
M
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark. I forgot to mention that I only measured the true pH from the sample. The TDS was measured directly in the tank and has reduced because of the partial water shift with ZeroWater..
But thanks for your help and I look forward to future videos.
Roel
Hi Mark. My tank, the fish and the snails are doing fine and all the parameters are just right. I also lowered the TDS from about 520 to 275 ppm (pH is 7.4).
Therefore I don’t understand why the water isn’t as crystal clear anymore as it was in the beginning. The last few weeks it has become slightly cloudy. Just a little bit but enough to wonder what the reason can be.
I do a 1/3 part water change once a week: is this ok or maybe to often?
I change the filter + airstone once a month and do a vacuum clean every 2 months.
The only product I use is Tetra Aquasafe.
Do you have an idea what the problem can be and how to solve it?
Best regards Roel
I have 3 tds meters. Lol it is also necessary to know a lot about the water when growing orchids. Does the water purifier and the beneficial bacteria raise the tds? Do you use distilled water or zero water? My tap is about 245. I don't know if its safe to use my unfiltered tap for the aquarium.
Hi Darcy. A water purifier should generally lower TDS. Beneficial bacteria largely occupy the surface of things in the tank rather than being dissolved and in suspension so their presence wont really add, but their conversion of ammonia and nitrite to nitrate will. I use zerowater which uses a 5-stage filter system to remove organic and non organics from tap (the water produced is very similar to RO DI systems used for larger aquariums). You can use distilled water too in the same way (to cut tap water). Both will show a reading of zero on a TDS. Your tap is a little bit on the high side but that also depends on the chosen fish species. Cutting your tap water with a quarter of distilled or zerowater would reduce everything in your water (including nitrates) by one quarter. So, this would reduce your TDS to around 184 ppm - which is a much better level to work with and can be kept in check through weekly water changes. Hope that helps. Best, Mark
Re my comment on TDS and fish species. For example, guppies actually prefer a TDS range which is much higher than your tap water. If you had guppies there would be little point in reducing your TDS. However, guppies can tolerate a TDS range of 200 to 1000 ppm so they would be a very good choice of fish for your TDS, as it stands, without alteration.
Hello Mark, sorry about all this confusion but my TH-cam profile has been a bit strange the last weeks. Hope it's ok now.
What I would like to share with you is that the Hanna Instruments PRIMO TDS Tester is not available anymore so I want to ask you if you have any experience with the Milwaukee pH and TDS meters. I've seen some different TDS pens on milwaukeeinstruments but I'm not sure which range will be the best for measuring the water quality in an aquarium: one with a low range (0-999 ppm), one with a middle range (0-1999 ppm ) or one with a high range (0-10000 ppm). Maybe you can take a look?
They also sell pH meters in different versions. Is there one you can advise?
And is it an idea to get an "all in one" meter with both pH and TDS measuring?
Thanks in advance and best /Roel
Hi Roel. Sorry to hear you've had TH-cam issues. I think I did reply to this one but i'm not sure it went. I'll try again...
The Hanna PRIMO is a great product and it is a shame if they have stopped producing it. All the Hanna TDS testers are very good but they are expensive! Milwaukee also make good testers so they are a good alternative to Hanna. The key thing for a good tester is to get one that automatically compensates for temperature as TDS readings vary in accordance to temperature. I would guess that all of the Hanna and Milwaukee testers have this. On the Milwaukee web site they have a drop down list of products for aquarium use. For freshwater testing you would probably be testing tank TDS in a range of 0-500ppm. The high range product 0 to 10000 seems to have a massive range and is probably an overkill and you might not get such accurate testing with the lower ranges.
In terms of digital pH testers I prefer not to use them and stick with API water testing for pH. If your tank water if pH7.0 and above you should find you have reasonably stable pH with any variation being small and within a suitable range for your fish. Regular digital testing might not be all that necessary. The key issue is that most good pH testers tend to need regular calibration, with many of them needing calibration before each testing. I'd soon get bored with having to keep calibrating just to establish that my pH hasn't changed!
If you are wanting to under digital pH testing as well as TDS I would go with getting one that is expensive rather than a low budget one. Or, instead, go with having two testers rather than a single one that is trying to do everything. Either way re-calibration is still likely to be needed on the more accurate pH systems.
Hope that helps.
Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you very much Mark. The only answer I got is this one so I just stick to this profile since the other one doesn't seem to work anymore. Your answer surely helps and I think I'll drop the pH tester. I use them at work and they are indeed complicated (boring 😄) because of the calibrating proces. But I must admit that the API testing also can be tedious...
Do you calibrate your TDS meter?
So I'll just purchase a TDS meter. Do you have any experience with the JBL ProScan (strips)?
Best to you, Roel
Hi again. Glad you got the previous response. Yes, I'd drop the pH tester - I have two lowish cost ones and I don't trust the readings and don't use them! Pro type (lab) pH testers work great but cost a fortune! As I mentioned pH doesn't tend to fluctuate much at all in my tanks, so it is a test I only do occasionally. My tap water is 7.2 to 7.4 but the "true pH" (i.e. 2 day standing water pH test) is 7.6 - which is the same as the pH in my tanks.
For the most part, my TDS doesn't need calibrating, but I do it every now and again using the Hanna liquids. With the Hanna TDS tester it somehow works out (when you dip it into the liquid) that that you are calibrating it and then it just calibrates and corrects itself. If only everything in life was that simple!
I know people that have tried out the ProScan and they have said they have got variable readings (when the test is repeated). Results are not the same as API. Varied reviews on it on Amazon too. People have even tested it out on RODI water and it can still show the presence of ammonia, nitrate etc (which shouldn't be the case with RODI water). API would correctly show 0 for these. Some people think it is good but there is probably a broader view that it is a great idea but the product needs some accuracy improvements. M
I have just used my meter and I'm reading 1579 and was OMG! Until I realised the fish shop man advised the use of salt as he says his tanks are all treated with it. I have mollies and Guppies and one pleco (was worried about salinating him a bit). Can you let us know your views on salt?
Hi. Sorry for the delay in responding. I’m out of the UK at the moment and have limited access to wifi. That a very high TDS. The use of salt is much debated. I am of the opinion that it should only be used when needed (for applying treatments to solve a problem. I can sort of see why your supplier uses salt - mainly to limit disease and bacteria etc. If using salt you must use aquarium salt which is designed for that purpose. Salt in the aquarium can slowly build in the tank (over time) as salt is not removed by evaporation and isn’t necessarily removed during water changes. You would need to monitor your water salinity to ensure that it isn't slowly increasing. Also, always dissolve aquarium salt in dechlorinated water before adding to the tank. As I mentioned above, I fall into the "don’t use it unless it is really needed" category. Best, Mark
Hi Mark, I’ve just added fish to my new biorb using colony and now the ppm has spiked to 500ppm from 108ppm should I do a water change or use easybalance?.
Hi Lisa. What are your overall readings for each of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in the aquarium. I'm not sure your readings are correct. Is the reading you provided for ammonia and, rather than 500ppm, do you mean 5.0ppm or 0.50ppm ammonia?
@@StepbyStep-biOrb I’ve used a tds meter so all I know is it’s reading should I get a full test kit?
The tds meter comes up as 500ppm no decimal points or anything just a number.
Or is 500ppm a TDS reading?
@@StepbyStep-biOrb yes doesn’t tell me anything just a number on the tds meter pen style.