Hi Mark. I've just had the Pearl Media delivered so I will be using it in the new aquarium. Yes, it does indeed hiss. LOL!! I would never of even thought about holding it up to my ear! Thanks for bringing the new media to my attention as I wouldn't have known otherwise. I far prefer this new one when compared to the rock version. I have soaked it for an hour as you suggested and then just prepared the tank as you suggest in your other videos. So grateful to you and this channel, it is so helpful. S
Hello I couldn't find the links to the products you were using. Also I am waiting for the new media from biorb to be sold in the US, so far can't find it. Thanks for the info, I wanted to change 2 of my 7 biorbs to this new media.
Hi Donna. I hope all is well. Yes, the new Pearl Media seems only to be supplied through a very limited number of retailers currently. But, I often find that with newer biOrb products! I recently got some more Pearl Media via eBay (the main UK supplier seems to be Aquacadabra). Not sure if that helps from a US point of view though. Best, Mark
A great video and really good news that their is finally a good product like this which has been specifically designed and works in a biOrb. I'm off to order 6 kilos (Ive 2 tanks now!!) :) Do I just apply Colony as though adding more fish? Thanks. Pete
Many thanks Peter. Just follow the suggestions in the video and I'm sure you will have no problems changing over from your existing. In terms of ATM Colony. That's correct, just treat the tank as though you were adding more fish. I would add a full dose (for your tank's size) directly following adding the Pearls and then a 1/2 of that amount of Colony on each day following that. When you add the second 1/3rd of Pearls... add a full dose of Colony again and then use half quantities of Colony for the following days. And then repeat again for the last one third. If you are using a previously used (opened) bottle of Colony make sure it is still in date. Hope thanks helps. Best, Mark
Glad you found the Channel. I hope it helps you... owning a biOrb and starting a fish tank for the first time are never easy things. Hopefully the videos help to steer you in the right direction. Thanks for watching and supporting the Channel. Best wishes, Mark
I've been eagerly waiting for this one and you did a great job, the pearl media looks great and I'm so glad it works as well as the original, I will be following your method to change mine over.
Hi Pam. Nice to hear from you. I think the main thing is not to rush it. I've tried changing at 50% and that certainly triggers a bit of a rise in ammonia and nitrite - for a couple of days. Using the 33% approach seems to avoid that issue. When you soak Pearl Media you will see (hear) how much it slowly absorbs water so it makes sense not to rinse it using straight (untreated) tap water. I'm not sure what the availability of Pearl Media is like where you are as it seems to be taking Oase a long time to get it properly distributed. Thanks for watching. M
Thank you, yes I will be using your approach and changing 1/3 at a time. I managed to get some when it first came out from watching your last video, which was lucky as it's not available anymore, I have enough for all my tanks, just waiting on my beneficial bacteria to arrive, and then can start.
Hey, where's my party invite?!!!! LOL. Sounds like that party is going to last for about 9 days! That great news Victoria! Let me know how it goes... any problems just shout. M
Great video! I very intrigued by this new media. I’ve scratched the side of my tank with the old. That’s all I can see now! I hope this will prevent future scratches and also be more gentle on my betas fins. Thank you!
Hi Amy. Yes, ceramic media is very course and with sharp edges so can lead to scratches as the base of the aquarium, although I cant say it's noticeable in my tanks. The Pearl is certainly a much smother product and will also benefit the betta. Best wishes, Mark
Thanks for watching my friend. You can get an aquarium vacuum for fish tanks and that's the best way to clean up any fish waste at the bottom of the tank. Only takes 5 mins and I normally do that weekly. Other than that, regularly adding some fresh water to the tank (water changes) helps to maintain water quality. A need to cleanse the substrate is possibly once a year (just remove and rinse with aquarium water then add back in. Again, this is best done over time, cleaning only one third of the substrate each time.
Hi Mark. Firstly thanks so much for your hard work with this channel. I would never have been able to successfully set up my tank without you! A question I have about this media. I have lost several fish getting stuck in the old media and haven’t spotted them in time to rescue them. Would this new media help with that issue do you think? Or are the chances the same? Keep up the good work my friend. I’m sure you’ve helped countless people via this channel
Hi Matt. Sorry for the delay, I've been out of the UK with limited access to wifi. In a word "yes" the Pearl media greatly reduces the opportunity for fish (mainly small fish and often new ones added to a tank!) to get stuck, when compared to the standard ceramic media product. I also find it much easier to clean waste from the base of the tank using a vac with Pearl Media. Best, Mark.
Thanks for your reply Mark. I’m going to take the plunge and I’ll follow your method of course! Thanks once again and I look forward to any future videos on your channel. All the best.
@@StepbyStep-biOrbHi Mark! I was wondering the same thing. I have Ember Tetras and baby fish and they get stuck very often. I’ve changed my set up a few times to see if that helps but that still happens. Should I put all the ceramic media and on top the center piece or first the center piece and the kind of covering it with the ceramic media? Thanks again! Hi Matt, I’m wondering if you switched to the pearl media and if you did, do you think that helped with the stucking fish? I might need to do that too. Thanks!
Hi Ana. Yes, replacing with Pearl Media would reduce the issue when compared to standard biOrb ceramic media (alfagrog). Adding to, or raising the hight of the standard biOrb Ceramic Media, wouldn't really help with the issue of very small fish getting trapped. For the large part, these small fish are getting stuck as they are basically searching out the smaller waste food left by any larger fish. Unfortunately most of this waste food is the material that ends up below the ceramic media. Apart from changing to Pearl Media the other option that may help is to choose a fish food that is either floating or is very slow sinking (ideally food should also be crushed so that small fish can readily eat it). The longer food stays at or near to the water surface the better chance for the smaller fish to get to eat it. the Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb great! Thanks Mark, I’ll do the switch to the pearl media you suggest. Little by little will do it. I use Hikari micro pellets and I think these are great. Thanks!
Hi Mark, We have the 60l classic. I bought it 2nd hand over a year ago. It came with the small blue aquarium gravel in it. I replaced with the pearls but am not sure I've used the proper amount. Should the pearls be level in bottom of aquarium and cover the the filter cartridge? Or should the sponge in filter be visible? I can see small amounts of the old blue gravel in the very bottom of the filter area. Does this restrict any filtration? The aquarium is up and running for a year now with only 1 betta and 1 cory catfish. Water change 30% or so weekly. Always shows nitrates in safe range but I'm sure if I didn't do these frequent water changes, it would climb to unsafe levels. Any tips re amount of media and is it possible to get rid of left over blue aquarium gravel that seems to be trapped? Thank you. I love your tutorials and they have been a so helpful. Thank you. Donna
Hi Donna. Really nice to hear from you. Congrats on the Classic 60 - my favourite tank! The amount of Pearl Media needed for a 60 Classic is 3 kilograms (i.e. 3 boxes). Any more than that is probably unnecessary and there will be no advantage to be gained by adding more. The substrate media in a biOrb acts as the tank's "biological filter", it forms the home for beneficial bacteria and the place where waste nutrients from food, fish and waste (ammonia, nitrite) are converted to the safer nitrate. The amount of Pearl Media needed reflects the area of surface required to support the beneficial bacterial colony needed to help maintain the tank and also the amount that allows best circulation of water flow. The size/population of bacterial colony reflects the amount of food/ nutrients available to support the colony. The larger the fish population (waste), the larger the bacterial colony that can be supported. Adding more substrate media would not promote a larger bacterial colony. For the biological filter to work efficiently it should allow good circulation of oxygenated water down and throughout the media. Having the media too deep would likely impede water flow down to the base of the tank (as water flow will always take the easiest route towards the central bubble tube filter). The filter in the bubble tube (sponge, filtration media and filter cartridge) acts as the tanks mechanical filter and is the place where waste particles become trapped and removed from the tanks water. Water is drawn to the bottom of the filter cartridge (and not through the sides or the top of the filter cartridge). Raising the media's depth, so that it sits above the central filtration unit, would not improve filtration and might do the opposite. Reasons to maintain a shallower depth of Pearl Media (e.g. 3kg) - Allows better circulation of water through and down to the bottom of the media depth. - Provides less obstruction to waste particles that would end up getting trapped and held in the substrate - Allows far better regular cleaning of the media (right down to the base of the tank) using a gravel vacuum ( a gravel vac is a vital tool for maintaining a biOrb and ensuring better tank water quality, helping to keep down nitrate levels). Regarding the blue gravel. Ideally this could do with being removed or reduced as it doesn't really add anything to the tank in terms of biological filter. However, it won't be having any real negative impact either! If the blue gravel is small (and therefore sitting under the base of the central filtration cartridge) it may be best to try to remove it if possible to help improve water flow below the cartridge. To do this, I would attempt to do this manually (by hand)- you would probably need to drop the tank's water by 50% to get easier access. Alternatively, if the gravel is small in size, a traditional water syphon might be able to suck it up during water changes. As larger syphons tend to have a strong draw on water flow, make sure the end of the pipe has a fish guard to avoid your cory going on an unexpected journey!! I hope that helps. Best, Mark
Thank you so much for your in-depth explanation of filtration system and the use of pearls! I literally had to empty the aquarium (saved water, pearls, fish, plants, etc) in pails as I quickly took out all of the pearl media, took off the cover that sits in bottom of tank and literally sprayed tiny tiny pieces of compacted blue rocks with the kitchen sprayer! It was easy that way. Got it all! I think I have the right amount of pearls in there now. I wanted to make sure I don't have too many for proper 'draw' through filter media. My cory doesn't seem able to really clean under the pearls as they don't move much for him to move around them. That's another reason I was wondering if he was a good choice for the set up. Your channel has helped me in so many ways to get the most out of our aquarium. Thank you so much and for taking the time to help me. Donna
Hi Donna. Great to hear from you again and I'm glad you managed to get the blue gravel out. That sort of thing can be an involved operation, but you did it! :) I think the cory is fine for what you have (and a good match with betta) although they are a social/shoal fish and are best kept in a group of at least 5-6, often more. What cory species is it? Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb It's a julii. I don't know if theres enough room for more of them because of the small bottom of biorb. I would like more tho. What do you think?
Yes, okay I know the species... although I don't have them (I have pygmy which tend to be less bottom focused than all other cory species and spend a lot of time in mid-water). Most cory are kept on sand or gravel and ideally shouldn't kept on media with very rough surface (e.g. biOrb ceramic media). I think it is fine to be kept on Pearl though, surface is fairly smooth. I'd be tempted to get another couple of them especially if yours spends a lot of time hiding away? You have 60l so a tank that size can certainly have more fish than you have, but I agree about the limitations of media surface in a Classic. The alternative would be to add another shoal species as it is likely the julii would feel more adventurous with an added number of fish. Best, Mark
Hello, thanks for all your videos, we are currently setting up our tank ready to fill and cycle. Could I ask how much ceramic media I need for a 60l life tank? It says 7 bags of 450g online, is that right, seems like an awful lot but obviously you need enough for lots of beneficial bacteria. It also looks quite sharp, would it be detrimental to add a softer smoother stone on top so the fish don't hurt themselves? Thank you.
Hello Alice. If using ceramic media in a 60l I would suggest 3-4 x 450g packs. However, you would be better getting 2kg of Alfagrog E25 which is the same thing but cheaper (don't get the larger E40 size!): amzn.to/45i9j2O. In terms of ceramic media/alfagrog there is very little danger of fish cutting themselves in reality, however due to having a rough surface they can be detrimental to the mouths of "true" bottom feeding fish. It is unlikely you would be getting any of these anyway. The main issue with ceramic media is that smaller fish (especially new ones added to a tank) can get trapped in the media and struggle to get back out. The other issue is that its irregular surfaces can make it more prone to trapping waste material at the bottom of the tank ( an aquarium vac will help to reduce this though) as the irregular shape reduces the tank's ability to drawn waste towards the central filter system/bubble tube. Pearl Media is a better product than ceramic media and largely avoids the issues associated with ceramic media/ alfagrog that I mention above. As it has a smoother surface it tends to need a larger quantity to support beneficial bacteria (i.e. the biological filter). biOrb suggest 3kg in a 60l, which is about right. Either way, a vac is an essential tool when owning a biOrb as it really supports cleaning up waste and is great for doing water changes. This is the type that works with ceramic media or Pearl: amzn.to/45vC5xn If using an alternative type of media in a biOrb it must be one that supports beneficial bacteria colonisation and also allow suitable water flow through and around it... as biOrbs function as an under gravel filter system. Generally the material needs to be larger than 10mm in size so that it doesn't clog-up or interfere with the biOrb filter system. I hope that helps you. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks for such an in depth and quick reply. Do you have a recommended ammonia product that you would use for cycling the tank? I have the ceramic material, bucket and items to make the tap water initially safe but would like to order the additional items needed for the next few weeks before the fish go in. Thanks again. Best wishes, Alice
Hi again. There are two methods to cycle.... fish-in cycle or fishless cycle. For fishless cycle you will certainly need ammonia to provide a food source for bacterial colonisation. This is best supplemented with a bacterial product such as Seachem aquavitro Seed. Seed seems to work well in any aquarium water quality scenarios, products such as ATM Colony freshwater amzn.to/3Q2y8f2 and this one amzn.to/3RFvexZ are also good. As fishless cycling takes far longer than a fish-in cycle, using a bacterial product will help to speed the process up by a good 7 days. Most ammonium chloride products work (that are produced for aquarium use). Dr Tim's always seems to get good reviews and I've used numerous times. If you visit here amzn.to/3Q0s2vo you should be able to view the bottle's instructions, so at least you know what is involved. When cycling, and for keeping an aquarium, it is far better to use a reagent based water test kit (rather than test strips), this one is probably the "go to" test kit: amzn.to/48AhzhJ. It is important to keep ammonia and nitrite levels at a tank level below 5 ppm, a good aquarium test kit will help to get this right. For making tap water safe I always suggest Tetra Aquasafe as this product doesn't interfere with the creation of a bacterial colony. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you. I had the de chlorinator, the test kit and the ceramic media all in the basket and have now added the Colony and Amonia, should be good to go! It really helps to have learned that there are essentially two things to prepare, the tank which needs cycling to create bacteria (which takes a while) and the water which needs treatment but is almost instant. It's confusing because you put the chemicals for the tank prep in the water too. And you test the water for both elements. Anyway! I digress, thanks again. Here's to a month of testing and tweaking. All the best, Alice
Yes, fishless cycle is a bit more challenging than fish-in cycling as you will need to get your head around it. You will need to add the bacterial product and also the ammonia and keep the ammonia water readings at a certain level to support bacterial growth through the cycling process. Bacteria, once they begin to establish, will start to convert ammonia to nitrite which you should then be able to register with the daily testing (normally takes several or more days). Eventually you will then start to see nitrate increasing above the baseline reading due to the conversion of nitrite. It is beneficial to record your tank's nitrate level ("baseline reading") before you start cycling, as you will be monitoring nitrate increase above the baseline starting point. Hope that makes sense. M
Hi Mark, I live in France and i ve just bought a Biorb Tube 30L. I can't find Biorb Pearl Media but I ve seen similar Pearl on Amazon : Fish Tank Bio Balls, 500g Aquarium Bio Balls Filter Media (10-12mm). On your video, I ve seen, I need 2kg of these pearl in my tank. Do you think, it s a good product ? Thanks you very much.
Hi Jonathan. Yes, I am aware of the product but haven't seen or used them and I have not seen any reviews on them. I was under the impression that they are targeted for use in aquarium filters/sumps... rather than for use as an aquarium substrate. I don't really know though. My initial concern would be whether they leach compounds/materials that may alter the tank's water parameters (pH etc). I don't know! Their advertising indicates the media doesn't shed material (i.e. has a stable structure) but, at the same time, their advert also happily claims nitrate reduction (something I would love to see evidence of!). They are certainly cheaper than biOrb Pearl so it might be worth the risk, but it is a product I know very little about. Best wishes, Mark.
Hi Mark, I am interested in swapping to the pearl media. I have a 16 gallon tank - do you suggest that I buy 1 or 2 bags? I can’t find any instructions on amount on the company website.
Hi Lisa. So, the Pearl Media is sold in 1kg packaging/ boxes. You should be able to get a reduced price if ordering multiple packs. The amount needed depends upon the base size of the tank. The Classic, Halo, Life and Loop all need 3kg of Pearl Media. However the Cube, which has a larger width base needs 4kg. Hope that helps. Mark
Still waiting on the last of my stuff arriving before I set up my brand new Biorb flow so decided to go with this new media. The main reason being I did not want my new tank getting scratched by the old spiky rock type. Got it off eBay for £36 ( for two boxes ) should be here Friday. Even more excited now. What gravel hoover do you recommend for this new media ?? Thanks.
Hey again. Yes, I would have opted for the Pearl (now that I've used it for some time). It is better than the previous using ceramic media/Alfagrog which i have used for many many years. Pearl is certainly the way to go! You might as well get it now and cycle the tank using it (saves all the messing around later if you went with ceramic media and then fancied changing later). There is basically only one vac that works well in biOrbs (it works with bother ceramic media and the new Pearl). I use them week in week out to undertake all my water changes (five tanks) using the vac and for removing trapped waste. The product is made by only one manufacturer but it is sold under different product names (they are all the same, although costs might not be!). Get the battery version, rather than plug in electric (these seem to be very unreliable!). I use with rechargeable batteries... easy life! The vacs are just the right size for use in a biOrb (not overly cumbersome so can be easily manouvered around the tank ). Here are the current Amazon links to the vac I use: amzn.to/3wGwViS or amzn.to/3Y9zRA9 or amzn.to/3XTmlRu. You will probably find the supplied tubing is not long enough so you may need to extend it or fit replacement tubing. I reviewed the product on the Channel some time back here: th-cam.com/video/wtU0Cqx9yes/w-d-xo.html. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks Mark yer a star. Going to order that vac too. I really don't want to add up what I have spent in the last couple of weeks. I have another question for you but I will pop it in the relevant video. Thanks again.
Hey. All your videos are so knowledgeable and interesting, I got my Biorb pearl media yesterday but they look a bit smaller than the ones u have in this tank. Do they expand a little after a while?
Hi Thomas. Great to hear from you. The Pearl should vary between 10mm to 12mm in size. Whilst I describe them as being highly absorptive, this reflects that they allow good, but reduced, water flow through them. However, they are extremely stable in structure, meaning they will not breakdown, increase/decrease in size nor will they release materials into the aquarium water (i.e. wont alter pH, hardness etc). I have seen no evidence of the material breaking down (reducing) in all of my tanks. Generally, any size of a suitable (for beneficial bacteria) substrate over "pea size" should work well in a biOrb as this size stops the media getting trapped under the central filter system. Other products on the market are often smaller and therefore need a barrier (sponge ring, adaption) to stop media getting trapped. This impacts on the biOrbs water flow through and under the gravel filter system. I think that the size comparison you refer to, compared to my video, might be far more to do with my camera/distance angle. If you measure them they should be between 10-12mm. There would be no advantage for Oase biOrb in reducing the size of the product as they are sold in accordance to package weight. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks for very in-depth information. It all makes sense. 😊 I look forward to seeing more videos from your channel. Do you mostly showcase Biorb content or thinking of doing more on aquatics! @Biorb should really hire you as their specialist and spokesperson! 👏🏻👌
Lol. The videos are really about helping new (biOrb) owners to set-up and maintain an aquarium suitable for maintaining fish. It also provides advice (though the comments) for owners experiencing issues. So, ultimately "biOrb ownership" is the Channel theme. For the past two years I have been involved in setting-up 'half whisky barrel' fish ponds for outdoor use. It might be something to bring into this Channel as it is a bit like setting up a 100 litre biOrb for outdoor use! I need to think about that one. Oase biOrb do link my videos to their Facebook site, but I get no support from them. It's just me...and you lot! It's an owners only Channel... not sellers! :)
Hello Mark, after watching this video I'm in doubt if I should exchange my Ceramic Media with the Pearl Media. I can see a lot of advantage with the Pearl Media (safer for the fish, less chance for scratches, and a better function of the filter). The only thing I'm not sure of is the way they look. My tank has a natural look, with wood and green colours and I'm not sure if the Pearl Media can give a bit of a "fake" expression because of the colour and the shape, while the Ceramic Media looks more natural. Maybe you can give me a last advice since you have exchanged your Ceramic Media with the Pearl Media. Thanks and all the best to you. Roel
Hi Roel. I would agree that, based on your tank's theme ("freshwater/woodland" type), the ceramic media would probably be more aligned to that look. I guess the Pearl Media lends itself far better to oceanic themes due to its sand based colour and appearance of pebbles. The only tank that I have with a more woodland theme is my Classic 60. This has Pearl Media in it but the design of the Classic tank means that media sits low in the tank's base and is largely out of sight. Hope that helps. Best wishes to you. M
Hi Janet. I am aware of the product but I haven't tested it. I am always wary or products that make big claims (especially on nitrate reduction) and this seems to be yet another one of them. I haven't seen any proper technical (long term) reviews of it and I'm also not sure it is designed to be used as a substrate material (i.e. seems to be aimed at use in tank filter systems). As a substrate material, and due to its small size, you would need to convert the biOrb filter to avoid the issue of the media going in and getting trapped under the filter. I'm not clear on the price as not many companies seem to be selling it or stocking it. From what I've seen, biOrb Pearl Media is a cheaper product per kilo. Hope that helps, Mark.
Hey long time no speak! we’ll look to do the change. We can’t stand how difficult the ceramic media rocks are to clean the debris off of. I have a feeling a female minnow in my tank is ready to lay eggs for the males to fertilise! I just wondered what I did about the cleaning of the tank while this process is taking place? I’m new to this haha. Thanks.
Hey. Really nice to hear from you. I hope all is well. I'm now slowly converting over all my tanks to the new Pearls. I've being doing a lot of aquarium (substrate) testing lately and I'm glad to finally have a rest from all that messing around. So, sounds like you might be getting babies! lol. The only problem is the use of a vac. Their eggs are tiny! If they (she) seems to be content on laying eggs in a specific area then just avoid using a vac around that area. You might need to do a minimum approach -as long as water quality remains within roughly the right parameters. Eggs should hatch within a few days. Small fry can be problematic too but, if they all shoot to the opposite end of the tank and hide... then I would probably continue with it. The adults will be happy to feed on them though... but the ceramic media at least offers spaces to hide out of the way. All other things should be fine (e.g. cleaning sponge filters). When undertaking water changes (with fry present) you may need to put a fine mesh over the end of the vac or syphon (just to stop fry getting sucked up!). Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks that’s a great help :) I am pleased to have lost none or my minnow since I started my tank. I’m hoping it’s because I’m getting things right and the fact that they are quite a tough fish.
Hey Victoria. Yes, I would never expect to lose any new fish (unless there was some other reason behind that e.g. supplier quality). It is certainly a good indictor that you are doing things perfectly right! They are indeed tough fish (tolerant) , but, even then, if things are not right even hardy fish can suffer. I think it is mainly because you put a great deal of thought and effort into your aquarium planning before even adding any fish. So, it is mainly down to you! :)
@@StepbyStep-biOrbAww thank you, that’s really kind :) I’m very methodical in nature, I think it’s helped! I have definitely decided I will have a heated tank when I ever did it all again. Feel a lot more confident with it now. Have any of your fish had babies? Are you a grandad? Lol
Yes, heated tanks are probably a bit easier and certainly during cycling. I certainly have had fry well back in the past. You have to be careful that you don't end up having too many fish for the size of the tank. Nowadays I would generally avoid having males and females (e.e guppies, endler's) or choose fish that are not so easy to breed. But, as they say, nature always finds a way! Lol. x
Hi Mark. Another great video! I've been using the biohome media in two of my biorbs ( classic 60/life 45 ). About the same price as the new biorb pearls. About changing media in excisting aquarium. Why not use those nylon bags, fill it with pearls, or whatever media you want to use, and dump it in your tank for a few weeks? I keep a few bags lying in established aquariums in case I want start a new one. Cheers Tim
Hi Tim. Thanks for watching and for commenting. Much appreciated. In short, it can certainly be done this way.... I've done it myself, but prefer the way I've shown. There are different views, depending on the science behind it, that a tank's colony of beneficial bacteria exists at an equilibrium(ish!!) with a tank's ammonia and nitrite levels. I suppose this sort of makes sense (the size of the bacterial colony is food limited). So, adding some further media (in addition to the already existing media) doesn't necessarily "force" a full colonisation of the new media when it's added to an existing tank. Of course, removing some of the existing media or adding a few additional fish to an existing tank then adding the new media would certainly push colonisation of the new media. I've messed around with these different approaches over time and I've always found a quicker "bounce back" of a bacterial colony when an existing quantity of media material is removed and then a similar quantity of new media is added, especially when supported by adding a bacterial products for 2 -3 days. Care really needs to be applied with the amount of media removed and replaced. The method I show in the video, in all the cases I've done it, doesn't result in a notable ammonia or nitrite spikes (any change to these is barely readable using API testing). The remaining 2/3rds of existing bacteria certainly does support the addition of the new media. However, I've tried the same approach using a 50% replacement of existing with new and that certainly can trigger a short durational spike in ammonia and nitrite (not high levels and lasting two days generally). I suppose the key thing is to stick with what works for you and what you have confidence in. So if the bagged method works for you then certainly stick with that approach. Best wishes to you, Mark
Hi again mark, you might remember that I bought a secondhand 60 litre life to get back into Fishkeeping after some years thanks to your videos and help I'm now starting to enjoy myself, Can't say I have been without a few problems but the joys of keeping any pet is solving in the problems. What I would like to ask is although I changed the substrate it is still the volcanic rock type stuff, and I would like a couple of bottom feeders to Hoover up wasted Food et cetera but I have been told that it is not suitable for catfish type fish as they can hurt their mouths when nibbling on The rock, can you give me any suggestions please? Or should I think of changing to the Pearl Media it looks smoother and I am thinking that it may alleviate the problem, your advice as always is more than welcome, keep up the good work it must be pretty much a full time job for you looking after 4 tanks, it take me enough trying to sort out one Ha-Ha.
Hi again. Really nice to hear from you again. Generally, rough ceramic media can be detrimental to some bottom feeding fish, but this is more to do with wearing down barbels (rather than impacting on the mouth). If you want genuine ("true") bottom feeders then a move to Pearl Media would solve this (it is mainly what biOrb designed it for). The alternative would be to go for pygmy cory (catfish), which tend to be far more active off the bottom and spend a fair bit of time mid-water, often darting to the surface for air. They will often feed mid water but also like pecking at missed food off the bottom or off plants (including plastic). I've had them for many years on ceramic media without any issue. They are a very cute, really interesting fish, best introduced as a group (their small size allows this). Basically, they are tiny, you wont get much smaller, so they need to be added to a tank that doesn't hold larger species that may see them as prey! Yes, four tanks can be a handful. I added to my burden this year by setting-up a half barrel whisky barrel pond in the garden. That was very hard work to do from scratch (learning curve needed and all that). Lots of green algae issues at first and it has taken me a little time to settle it all down. All is now stunningly perfect and my three comet gold fish are all very happy. Zero ammonia, zero nitrite and a constant zero nitrate thanks to all the stunning plants. Water as clear as glass! I now have my fingers crossed that a heron doesn't see the whole thing as a free-meal opportunity! :) Best, Mark
Hi after looking at reviews for biOrb decorations they seem to have a couple of problems. Hard to clean and the centre piece the colour flakes off. Please any advice.helen
Hi Helen. I have 5 biOrbs - all with centre pieces. No one of the ornaments or decorations I own have had colour paint flake off or have had any colour issues. I have had some of them for numerous years. I am aware, from this Channel, that some people have had issues with white decor (which I don't have). I think, if you keep clear of white biOrb decorations, you will have no problem. In terms of cleaning, that's easy - see my video on bleach cleaning as a super easy way to clean sculptures, decorations and plastic plants - this avoid scrubbing with brushes etc and restores these items to looking new: th-cam.com/video/F7kyzUiSN5Y/w-d-xo.html. Hope that helps. Best wishes and thanks for your comments. Mark
I've checked on the availability of the pearl media in the states. Biorb only says "it will be available soon" in the US. I've checked with UK stores and UK Ebay sites and nobody will ship it overseas. Anxiously awaiting as it would be much easier to start off with this and my tank arrives soon!
Hi Jill. Yes I thought that might be a problem. It is a fairly new product so distribution is likely to be slow at first. The first very early batch I got imported into the UK. However it is now reasonably easier to get (but only from a very limited number of suppliers). I'm not sure whether it can be shipped to the US via AmazonUK?: amzn.to/3UMlwZn.
I was able to get the pearl media shipped over to the US from Europe. I’m wondering if you’ve noticed any pH spikes caused since you’ve added it. My tap water registers at 7.2. My aquarium water is 8.0! Only thing in the tank was driftwood and the media, no fish yet. Trying to figure out what’s going on.
Hi Jill. The rise in pH is likely to be reflecting the "true pH" of your tap water. As tap water is left to stand it releases gases and this shifts the water's pH. The way to test this is to run your cold water tap for one minute, then fill a glass with water. Leave this to stand for two days and then undertake a pH test of it. This should confirm a similar pH to what is in your tank. Even a test after 24 hours should start to show this shift. Let me know if not. The drift wood you have will likely release tannin (the extent depends on the type of wood and amount) which will result in a yellow/brown colouring of your aquarium water. Tannin can lower tank pH a little bit (again the extent of this being dependent on the type of wood and how long the tannin is allowed to build in the water between water changes and how much KH is in your water). Hope that helps, best wishes, Mark
Hi. Basically tap water will have a varying level of CO2 depending on the area of water source. CO2 comes from natural sources (e.g. decomposing vegetation, soils) but can also come from things like air pollution. The level of CO2 will also show seasonal variations in your tap. The CO2 retains a lower pH initially but as this off-gases the pH in the water will rise (the extent being dependent somewhat on how much CO2 is in your water supply). In my case, the true pH reading is not a great deal different from the initial tap reading. ZeroWater may reduce pH but this wouldn't be a great deal and this is dependent on KH in your water (i.e. the ability of your water to buffer - or bounce back- to the standard pH level). If you have a ZeroWater jug then it is certainly worth experimenting using 1/3rd zero to 2/3rds tap and also 50/50 zero/tap, just to see what that does. Again, the test should be on the water after being left to stand. For a biOrb, I would normal use filtration of tap water (using things like ZeroWater/ RO DI) to deal mainly with things like high tap nitrate levels (say 25ppm upwards). There are products, such as pH-up and pH-down that can be used to alter pH, but I have seen both negative and positive reviews on adding these types of things. Chasing a specific pH level for an aquarium is not always the easiest thing to do (esp. if you are new to the hobby), when compared to choosing fish that are better suited to the tap water quality you have.
Hi All. I'm trying to get my hands on the new Biorb pearl media as well as the new intelligent heater. Can someone please tell me where I can order these from? I'm in the States. TYIA!
Hi Kim. If that was a question about the UK I could easily answer it. Have you tried contacting the biOrb North America office to ask which retailers might stock these?
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hello Mark. Thank you for your reply. The US site doesn't have either of them and I'm in the process of redesigning my 105L and I really hate the media. It's really difficult to get underneath it. I have a 50ft hose with a transfer that I use to clean the tank on a weekly basis and trying to get underneath it creates chaos in the tank and my plants get moved around and then I need to replant and try to anchor them again. I was thinking that the pearl media would be easier and less chaotic. I also have an LED 28 heater that I have to suction to the side of the tank and the accuracy is failing by 2-3 degrees.
Hey Kim. Didn't know you had a 105! Great tank (big envy from my side! Lol). Yes, I'm going to say that the new Pearl Media is probably going to be better for you. I'm really (add another "really"!) happy with it... in the tanks I have. I will convert all of them over the next few weeks. I've tested numerous (so called "alternative") products but they all end-up being problematic in the long term. It's good that Oase have come up with something that is specifically designed for biOrbs and avoids all the messing around with conversions. I intend to do a 6-month review video on Pearl Media in the future (but I already have a gut feeling it will be a positive one). The distribution (outlets) seems to be very slow... and even in the UK/Europe! I ended up having to get my first supply of the product imported to the UK - so that I could start testing reasonably in advance of producing a video. In terms of UK, the main distributer of Pearl Media seems to be supplier/shop called Aquacadabra. I've recently ordered more through them. It might be worth phoning them to see if they will help you with US shipping etc (it's a great supplier, and I'm sure they may help you if you contact them directly!). Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Yes, the tank is beautiful and very big. It is cumbersome to clean sometimes so I'm trying to make it easier. Luckily, (thanks to your suggestion of Aquacadabra), a good friend is going home to England for Christmas and I have the heater and media being shipped to her parents! I'm not thrilled about having to wait till December, but at least I'll get free shipping :)
Looking at that media in the bottom of that tank I would say that it has very large gaps between it, that food and waste can get trapped in , but also the fish cannot manage to get to. Also, this does not look to be very easy to get a gravel cleaner into, to clean this. You also did not mention anything about the media reducing nitrates. Biogravel from the Biohome range solves all of these issues and is possibly even a little cheaper.
Hi Les. Really nice to hear from you. Yes, the Pearl Media does have gaps but this is crucial for a biOrb under gravel filter system, which relies on water flow through, and under the media. This allows waste to be drawn to the central filter but also supports water quality due to oxygen flow and water circulation for beneficial bacteria. My experience shows that waste does not get overly get trapped (no more than any other product I've tested, including Biohome) but that also comes down to undertaking regular maintenance (e.g. a suitable gravel vac), which is also required for all media types suitable for the biOrb filter system. I can remove all waste under the media with a vac... very easily. The key benefit of the Pearl Media is that is needs no filter conversion at all (with additional sponges which also act as a trap for waste). I have certainly evidenced a good reduction in nitrates since converting to Pearl Media although I'm not sure biOrb makes any such claims for nitrate reduction. That's up to them, and I'm not going to do a video on what I've found! My Channel is not aimed at being a product sales Channel, biOrb or not. Certainly, if you are convinced that Biohome is the product for you... great... go for it! I'm sure, it is a good product. Best wishes, Mark
Thanks for your response. The maintenance is key and if not kept on top of, a lot of waste and uneaten food will be trapped away from the fish ,which will soon pollute. This is where many people will fail if not prepared for it. Good to see the Biorb range putting some long overdue improvements in place as these aquariums have a very bad reputation, which is a shame.@@StepbyStep-biOrb
Not a problem. Maintenance is key regardless of the media, especially removing waste. There simply isn't a media on the market on that doesn't need maintenance and waste removal. Anything that says otherwise is just sales pitch/ snake oil. The simpler, and more efficient, the system in a biOrb, the better the outcome in terms of water quality, fish health etc and ease of maintenance. Since first using Pearl Media in just one of my tanks, I have now upgraded to this on all 5 tanks. My choice is based on thorough review of other key products on the market. I am very happy with the outcome of using Pearl over the past year or so.
Hi Kim. Yes, I am aware of the limited distribution to the US. Numerous Subscribers from the US have raised this issue. I understand that Oase biOrb are only indicating that it will be in the US soon. Best, Mark.
Not a problem. The intention of the video is to make sure people follow certain steps if they plan to get and use Pearl Media. Hopefully, you will be able to get it very soon and you will know exactly what to do with it when you get it. Thanks for watching and for supporting my Channel. :-)
Hello! Isn’t this similar to EHEIM Substrat Pro Biological Filter Media (Sintered Pearl-Shaped Glass)? I’m currently setting up a 2nd BiOrb, and could I just use that instead until BiOrb Pearl Media becomes available in the U.S.?
Hello. Yes, but not really! The Eheim seems similar but in fact it isn't at all! It is a much smaller size, so needs to be used with a conversion sponge to stop it going under the biOrb's filter canister. The really bad news it is that it constantly beaks down (sheds) material. It never seems to stop doing this! However, the Pearl Media is of a size specifically designed for the biOrb filter but is also far more stable in its structure. Both products are porous... but I would say the Pearl Media is better in this respect. Porosity is better if it is slowed through the media to some extent. The porosity of Pearl Media is fairly slow (hence the 'hiss' that lasts for a good 30 mins and the need to soak!). The Eheim is mainly designed for use in a filter sump rather than use as an aquarium substrate. However, Pearl Media is only designed to be a substrate. Some other filter "sump materials" are not initially designed to be used as a substrate material. Later, they are often promoted as being "purposely designed" for this use. Sorry, not true! I have extensively tested a broad range of media/substrate products. In fact, I'm fully sick of doing it and so am currently having a rest! Size wise, Seachem Pond Matrix is probably a better bet than the Eheim, if you are really desperate for an alternative to the biOrb media. It is a better size than Eheim and is more structurally stable (doesn't shed so much). It does need a fair bit of rinsing before adding to the tank. But it is very costly as a material and for the quantities needed to form the substrate across the whole of a biOrb base. Seachem makes claim (like various other products) to support anaerobic bacteria and a reduction or complete removal of tank nitrates. After 10 months of full-on testing I saw no such thing! Colour wise It is a very pale grey colour (based on pumice... very occasional new pieces do float due to air being trapped inside, but these will normally sink after 24 hours). The product would work if you wanted a very pale substrate. What I would do: I would certainly save the money! I'd stick with biOrb Ceramic Media (Alfagrog E25) to establish the tank etc and then swap over to Pearl Media when the distribution of this improves in the US. Or, find a EU supplier that will ship to the US. I hope that helps. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, I have been using a layer of traditional media (grog) around the filter to prevent the eheim pro to enter the filter. this does work too... so you don't need the sponge in that case :) might be a tip. alternatively you could use the pearl media and use that too as a prevention layer. I found the eheim substrate prettier in the biorb because of its smaller , more natural look .
Hi Sabine. Thanks for a great comment (contribution). Yes, I can really see how that would work... using alfagrog as the mechanism to act as a barrier to the smaller Eheim Pro (and messing around with the biOrb filter,) Great idea, well beyond me to think of that! Your idea would do away with having to use a silly second sponge on the outside of the filter!! :). BTW: I have another spare 30L biOrb which I plan to use to fully test out biohome gravel substrate this year (and the product claims of nitrate reduction). I think I might just apply what you suggest. I'll certainly namecheck you with coming up with that idea! Great tip! Thanks again. Mark x
Hi Mark, I have been cycling for 2 weeks now. I’d like to swap to this media at some point. How would I do that? Gradually remove the old style media and replace with the pearl media over a few months? Thanks Emma
Hi Emma. I would suggest that you leave your tank to settle for several months. After that, feel free to swap over. It should be done gradually to avoid causing peaks in ammonia and nitrite. The Description of the video (hopefully!) covers what you need to do in this scenario. Click on 'Read More', under the video, and then this will open the Description I am referring to. I hope this covers what you need to know. Shout if not! Nice to hear from you, Mark.
Thanks very much for the quick reply! I’ll definitely wait a while then change bits over slowly. Realistically will shrimp and bottom feeders be able to manage with the old media for a few months? Thanks Emma
Not a problem. Shrimps will be fine, ceramic media is more akin to natural habitat. They will tend to go around, through and under most things. What bottom feeders do you have?
Hi Mark, I don’t have any at the moment as it’s cycling. It’s my first aquarium and with the help of your videos I think it’s going pretty well so far, but starting out is A LOT to take in. I think I’m overthinking it. I definitely do want shrimp so as long as they’re fine with the media I can change it gradually over time. I’m going for Tetra, due to my soft water (picked up in your video when you added Tetra to your tank) thanks very much for the replies. I have a biorb cube 60l so not really sure what to put in it or how many. Love the Phantom Tetra in your video though 🤷🏻♀️
I switched out half of my ceramic media to the pearls. There was much gunk released into the water that it made me think that my tank isn’t filtering sufficiently. Ugh!
Hi Lisa. Are you using a gravel vacuum as part of your weekly maintenance of the substrate? A vac should remove most of the waste accumulation. Despite biOrb claims, the filter (and that goes for most aquariums) will NOT draw all waste material to it. It will, to some extent, which is why the sponge filter needs to be cleaned. Some material will remain under the media if not extracted with a vac and will build up over time if left. As I mentioned, this isn't just a biOrb thing, all aquariums will need to have their substrate (sand, gravel etc) maintained using a vac or syphon to remove waste build-up. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb I am, but maybe I’m not using a good one. The water was pretty filthy. I will check your video library in the event that you have recommended a gravel vacuum, but if you have not, let me know what you suggest.
Hi Lisa. Yes, I have a video covering vac testing: th-cam.com/video/wtU0Cqx9yes/w-d-xo.html. There is currently only one type of vac that works with ceramic media and peal media. It also works well within the refined area of a biOrb. It is this one: amzn.to/46SFyrq. The vac needs to be operated without the clear sand filter component on - just use with the blue tip. This will easily push through media and down to the bottom of the tank and will extract waste. You just add the filter bag (collector) and adjust the depth of the vac to suit your tank. I would suggest use of it weekly or every two weeks... this just to keep on top of the waste. You should see your water quality(clarity) improve greatly if you use it regularly. The vac is also good for undertaking water changes. If you need any advice on other things just shout. Best, Mark
Okay. I'm not aware of another types that works. The product is sold under different names (but all made by the same company in China). You should be able to find it on US Amazon if you search using 'aquarium gravel vac'. Ideally get the battery version rather than one that works off mains power supply. I think this one is available in the US if you can't find the battery version: www.amazon.com/LONDAFISH-Electric-Vacuum-Cleaner-Operated/dp/B089W8QXYB/ref=sr_1_29?crid=1VRF2YMJ53W72&keywords=Aquarium+gravel+vac&qid=1689435638&sprefix=aquarium+gravel+vac%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-29. The give away, apart from them looking all the same is it possessing a dark blue tip at the end of the vacuum pipe. Hopefully, you can track one down.
Hi Mark. I've just had the Pearl Media delivered so I will be using it in the new aquarium. Yes, it does indeed hiss. LOL!! I would never of even thought about holding it up to my ear! Thanks for bringing the new media to my attention as I wouldn't have known otherwise. I far prefer this new one when compared to the rock version. I have soaked it for an hour as you suggested and then just prepared the tank as you suggest in your other videos. So grateful to you and this channel, it is so helpful. S
Hello
I couldn't find the links to the products you were using.
Also I am waiting for the new media from biorb to be sold in the US, so far can't find it. Thanks for the info, I wanted to change 2 of my 7 biorbs to this new media.
Hi Donna. I hope all is well. Yes, the new Pearl Media seems only to be supplied through a very limited number of retailers currently. But, I often find that with newer biOrb products! I recently got some more Pearl Media via eBay (the main UK supplier seems to be Aquacadabra). Not sure if that helps from a US point of view though. Best, Mark
Thanks for the info. Very useful.
You're welcome! Thanks, as always, for watching and supporting my channel. Best wishes. Mark
A great video and really good news that their is finally a good product like this which has been specifically designed and works in a biOrb. I'm off to order 6 kilos (Ive 2 tanks now!!) :) Do I just apply Colony as though adding more fish? Thanks. Pete
Many thanks Peter. Just follow the suggestions in the video and I'm sure you will have no problems changing over from your existing. In terms of ATM Colony. That's correct, just treat the tank as though you were adding more fish. I would add a full dose (for your tank's size) directly following adding the Pearls and then a 1/2 of that amount of Colony on each day following that. When you add the second 1/3rd of Pearls... add a full dose of Colony again and then use half quantities of Colony for the following days. And then repeat again for the last one third. If you are using a previously used (opened) bottle of Colony make sure it is still in date. Hope thanks helps. Best, Mark
Fantastic. I've just found your youtube channel. What a wonderful thing this is! A big thank you!
Glad you found the Channel. I hope it helps you... owning a biOrb and starting a fish tank for the first time are never easy things. Hopefully the videos help to steer you in the right direction. Thanks for watching and supporting the Channel. Best wishes, Mark
I've been eagerly waiting for this one and you did a great job, the pearl media looks great and I'm so glad it works as well as the original, I will be following your method to change mine over.
Hi Pam. Nice to hear from you. I think the main thing is not to rush it. I've tried changing at 50% and that certainly triggers a bit of a rise in ammonia and nitrite - for a couple of days. Using the 33% approach seems to avoid that issue. When you soak Pearl Media you will see (hear) how much it slowly absorbs water so it makes sense not to rinse it using straight (untreated) tap water. I'm not sure what the availability of Pearl Media is like where you are as it seems to be taking Oase a long time to get it properly distributed. Thanks for watching. M
Thank you, yes I will be using your approach and changing 1/3 at a time. I managed to get some when it first came out from watching your last video, which was lucky as it's not available anymore, I have enough for all my tanks, just waiting on my beneficial bacteria to arrive, and then can start.
We’ve started the conversion to the pearls today Mark! Party time lol 🎉
Hey, where's my party invite?!!!! LOL. Sounds like that party is going to last for about 9 days!
That great news Victoria! Let me know how it goes... any problems just shout. M
Don't drink too much and make sure you leave the party before midnight... otherwise your glass slipper will turn into a 105l Classic!!!
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Haha I could never handle the 105! It brings me out in sweats how many tanks your managing! Lol Hope you have a nice weekend.
Great video! I very intrigued by this new media. I’ve scratched the side of my tank with the old. That’s all I can see now! I hope this will prevent future scratches and also be more gentle on my betas fins. Thank you!
Hi Amy. Yes, ceramic media is very course and with sharp edges so can lead to scratches as the base of the aquarium, although I cant say it's noticeable in my tanks. The Pearl is certainly a much smother product and will also benefit the betta. Best wishes, Mark
this thing shouldve been their standard media that comes in the box
I really like your videos the way you share and explain, is it often you have to clean the tank or pearls👍🏼
Thanks for watching my friend. You can get an aquarium vacuum for fish tanks and that's the best way to clean up any fish waste at the bottom of the tank. Only takes 5 mins and I normally do that weekly. Other than that, regularly adding some fresh water to the tank (water changes) helps to maintain water quality. A need to cleanse the substrate is possibly once a year (just remove and rinse with aquarium water then add back in. Again, this is best done over time, cleaning only one third of the substrate each time.
Hi Mark. Firstly thanks so much for your hard work with this channel. I would never have been able to successfully set up my tank without you! A question I have about this media. I have lost several fish getting stuck in the old media and haven’t spotted them in time to rescue them. Would this new media help with that issue do you think? Or are the chances the same? Keep up the good work my friend. I’m sure you’ve helped countless people via this channel
Hi Matt. Sorry for the delay, I've been out of the UK with limited access to wifi. In a word "yes" the Pearl media greatly reduces the opportunity for fish (mainly small fish and often new ones added to a tank!) to get stuck, when compared to the standard ceramic media product. I also find it much easier to clean waste from the base of the tank using a vac with Pearl Media. Best, Mark.
Thanks for your reply Mark. I’m going to take the plunge and I’ll follow your method of course! Thanks once again and I look forward to any future videos on your channel. All the best.
@@StepbyStep-biOrbHi Mark! I was wondering the same thing. I have Ember Tetras and baby fish and they get stuck very often. I’ve changed my set up a few times to see if that helps but that still happens. Should I put all the ceramic media and on top the center piece or first the center piece and the kind of covering it with the ceramic media? Thanks again!
Hi Matt, I’m wondering if you switched to the pearl media and if you did, do you think that helped with the stucking fish? I might need to do that too.
Thanks!
Hi Ana. Yes, replacing with Pearl Media would reduce the issue when compared to standard biOrb ceramic media (alfagrog). Adding to, or raising the hight of the standard biOrb Ceramic Media, wouldn't really help with the issue of very small fish getting trapped. For the large part, these small fish are getting stuck as they are basically searching out the smaller waste food left by any larger fish. Unfortunately most of this waste food is the material that ends up below the ceramic media. Apart from changing to Pearl Media the other option that may help is to choose a fish food that is either floating or is very slow sinking (ideally food should also be crushed so that small fish can readily eat it). The longer food stays at or near to the water surface the better chance for the smaller fish to get to eat it. the Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb great! Thanks Mark, I’ll do the switch to the pearl media you suggest. Little by little will do it. I use Hikari micro pellets and I think these are great. Thanks!
Hi Mark, We have the 60l classic. I bought it 2nd hand over a year ago. It came with the small blue aquarium gravel in it. I replaced with the pearls but am not sure I've used the proper amount. Should the pearls be level in bottom of aquarium and cover the the filter cartridge? Or should the sponge in filter be visible? I can see small amounts of the old blue gravel in the very bottom of the filter area. Does this restrict any filtration? The aquarium is up and running for a year now with only 1 betta and 1 cory catfish. Water change 30% or so weekly. Always shows nitrates in safe range but I'm sure if I didn't do these frequent water changes, it would climb to unsafe levels. Any tips re amount of media and is it possible to get rid of left over blue aquarium gravel that seems to be trapped? Thank you. I love your tutorials and they have been a so helpful. Thank you. Donna
Hi Donna. Really nice to hear from you. Congrats on the Classic 60 - my favourite tank!
The amount of Pearl Media needed for a 60 Classic is 3 kilograms (i.e. 3 boxes). Any more than that is probably unnecessary and there will be no advantage to be gained by adding more.
The substrate media in a biOrb acts as the tank's "biological filter", it forms the home for beneficial bacteria and the place where waste nutrients from food, fish and waste (ammonia, nitrite) are converted to the safer nitrate. The amount of Pearl Media needed reflects the area of surface required to support the beneficial bacterial colony needed to help maintain the tank and also the amount that allows best circulation of water flow.
The size/population of bacterial colony reflects the amount of food/ nutrients available to support the colony. The larger the fish population (waste), the larger the bacterial colony that can be supported. Adding more substrate media would not promote a larger bacterial colony.
For the biological filter to work efficiently it should allow good circulation of oxygenated water down and throughout the media. Having the media too deep would likely impede water flow down to the base of the tank (as water flow will always take the easiest route towards the central bubble tube filter). The filter in the bubble tube (sponge, filtration media and filter cartridge) acts as the tanks mechanical filter and is the place where waste particles become trapped and removed from the tanks water.
Water is drawn to the bottom of the filter cartridge (and not through the sides or the top of the filter cartridge). Raising the media's depth, so that it sits above the central filtration unit, would not improve filtration and might do the opposite.
Reasons to maintain a shallower depth of Pearl Media (e.g. 3kg)
- Allows better circulation of water through and down to the bottom of the media depth.
- Provides less obstruction to waste particles that would end up getting trapped and held in the substrate
- Allows far better regular cleaning of the media (right down to the base of the tank) using a gravel vacuum ( a gravel vac is a vital tool for maintaining a biOrb and ensuring better tank water quality, helping to keep down nitrate levels).
Regarding the blue gravel. Ideally this could do with being removed or reduced as it doesn't really add anything to the tank in terms of biological filter. However, it won't be having any real negative impact either! If the blue gravel is small (and therefore sitting under the base of the central filtration cartridge) it may be best to try to remove it if possible to help improve water flow below the cartridge. To do this, I would attempt to do this manually (by hand)- you would probably need to drop the tank's water by 50% to get easier access. Alternatively, if the gravel is small in size, a traditional water syphon might be able to suck it up during water changes. As larger syphons tend to have a strong draw on water flow, make sure the end of the pipe has a fish guard to avoid your cory going on an unexpected journey!!
I hope that helps.
Best, Mark
Thank you so much for your in-depth explanation of filtration system and the use of pearls! I literally had to empty the aquarium (saved water, pearls, fish, plants, etc) in pails as I quickly took out all of the pearl media, took off the cover that sits in bottom of tank and literally sprayed tiny tiny pieces of compacted blue rocks with the kitchen sprayer! It was easy that way. Got it all!
I think I have the right amount of pearls in there now. I wanted to make sure I don't have too many for proper 'draw' through filter media.
My cory doesn't seem able to really clean under the pearls as they don't move much for him to move around them. That's another reason I was wondering if he was a good choice for the set up.
Your channel has helped me in so many ways to get the most out of our aquarium. Thank you so much and for taking the time to help me.
Donna
Hi Donna. Great to hear from you again and I'm glad you managed to get the blue gravel out. That sort of thing can be an involved operation, but you did it! :) I think the cory is fine for what you have (and a good match with betta) although they are a social/shoal fish and are best kept in a group of at least 5-6, often more. What cory species is it? Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb It's a julii. I don't know if theres enough room for more of them because of the small bottom of biorb. I would like more tho. What do you think?
Yes, okay I know the species... although I don't have them (I have pygmy which tend to be less bottom focused than all other cory species and spend a lot of time in mid-water). Most cory are kept on sand or gravel and ideally shouldn't kept on media with very rough surface (e.g. biOrb ceramic media). I think it is fine to be kept on Pearl though, surface is fairly smooth. I'd be tempted to get another couple of them especially if yours spends a lot of time hiding away? You have 60l so a tank that size can certainly have more fish than you have, but I agree about the limitations of media surface in a Classic. The alternative would be to add another shoal species as it is likely the julii would feel more adventurous with an added number of fish. Best, Mark
Hello, thanks for all your videos, we are currently setting up our tank ready to fill and cycle. Could I ask how much ceramic media I need for a 60l life tank? It says 7 bags of 450g online, is that right, seems like an awful lot but obviously you need enough for lots of beneficial bacteria. It also looks quite sharp, would it be detrimental to add a softer smoother stone on top so the fish don't hurt themselves? Thank you.
Hello Alice. If using ceramic media in a 60l I would suggest 3-4 x 450g packs. However, you would be better getting 2kg of Alfagrog E25 which is the same thing but cheaper (don't get the larger E40 size!): amzn.to/45i9j2O.
In terms of ceramic media/alfagrog there is very little danger of fish cutting themselves in reality, however due to having a rough surface they can be detrimental to the mouths of "true" bottom feeding fish. It is unlikely you would be getting any of these anyway. The main issue with ceramic media is that smaller fish (especially new ones added to a tank) can get trapped in the media and struggle to get back out. The other issue is that its irregular surfaces can make it more prone to trapping waste material at the bottom of the tank ( an aquarium vac will help to reduce this though) as the irregular shape reduces the tank's ability to drawn waste towards the central filter system/bubble tube.
Pearl Media is a better product than ceramic media and largely avoids the issues associated with ceramic media/ alfagrog that I mention above. As it has a smoother surface it tends to need a larger quantity to support beneficial bacteria (i.e. the biological filter). biOrb suggest 3kg in a 60l, which is about right.
Either way, a vac is an essential tool when owning a biOrb as it really supports cleaning up waste and is great for doing water changes. This is the type that works with ceramic media or Pearl: amzn.to/45vC5xn
If using an alternative type of media in a biOrb it must be one that supports beneficial bacteria colonisation and also allow suitable water flow through and around it... as biOrbs function as an under gravel filter system. Generally the material needs to be larger than 10mm in size so that it doesn't clog-up or interfere with the biOrb filter system.
I hope that helps you. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks for such an in depth and quick reply. Do you have a recommended ammonia product that you would use for cycling the tank? I have the ceramic material, bucket and items to make the tap water initially safe but would like to order the additional items needed for the next few weeks before the fish go in. Thanks again. Best wishes, Alice
Hi again.
There are two methods to cycle.... fish-in cycle or fishless cycle.
For fishless cycle you will certainly need ammonia to provide a food source for bacterial colonisation. This is best supplemented with a bacterial product such as Seachem aquavitro Seed. Seed seems to work well in any aquarium water quality scenarios, products such as ATM Colony freshwater amzn.to/3Q2y8f2 and this one amzn.to/3RFvexZ are also good. As fishless cycling takes far longer than a fish-in cycle, using a bacterial product will help to speed the process up by a good 7 days.
Most ammonium chloride products work (that are produced for aquarium use). Dr Tim's always seems to get good reviews and I've used numerous times. If you visit here amzn.to/3Q0s2vo you should be able to view the bottle's instructions, so at least you know what is involved.
When cycling, and for keeping an aquarium, it is far better to use a reagent based water test kit (rather than test strips), this one is probably the "go to" test kit: amzn.to/48AhzhJ. It is important to keep ammonia and nitrite levels at a tank level below 5 ppm, a good aquarium test kit will help to get this right.
For making tap water safe I always suggest Tetra Aquasafe as this product doesn't interfere with the creation of a bacterial colony.
Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you. I had the de chlorinator, the test kit and the ceramic media all in the basket and have now added the Colony and Amonia, should be good to go! It really helps to have learned that there are essentially two things to prepare, the tank which needs cycling to create bacteria (which takes a while) and the water which needs treatment but is almost instant. It's confusing because you put the chemicals for the tank prep in the water too. And you test the water for both elements. Anyway! I digress, thanks again. Here's to a month of testing and tweaking. All the best, Alice
Yes, fishless cycle is a bit more challenging than fish-in cycling as you will need to get your head around it. You will need to add the bacterial product and also the ammonia and keep the ammonia water readings at a certain level to support bacterial growth through the cycling process. Bacteria, once they begin to establish, will start to convert ammonia to nitrite which you should then be able to register with the daily testing (normally takes several or more days). Eventually you will then start to see nitrate increasing above the baseline reading due to the conversion of nitrite. It is beneficial to record your tank's nitrate level ("baseline reading") before you start cycling, as you will be monitoring nitrate increase above the baseline starting point. Hope that makes sense. M
Hi Mark, I live in France and i ve just bought a Biorb Tube 30L. I can't find Biorb Pearl Media but I ve seen similar Pearl on Amazon : Fish Tank Bio Balls, 500g Aquarium Bio Balls Filter Media (10-12mm). On your video, I ve seen, I need 2kg of these pearl in my tank. Do you think, it s a good product ? Thanks you very much.
Hi Jonathan. Yes, I am aware of the product but haven't seen or used them and I have not seen any reviews on them. I was under the impression that they are targeted for use in aquarium filters/sumps... rather than for use as an aquarium substrate. I don't really know though. My initial concern would be whether they leach compounds/materials that may alter the tank's water parameters (pH etc). I don't know! Their advertising indicates the media doesn't shed material (i.e. has a stable structure) but, at the same time, their advert also happily claims nitrate reduction (something I would love to see evidence of!). They are certainly cheaper than biOrb Pearl so it might be worth the risk, but it is a product I know very little about. Best wishes, Mark.
Hi Mark, I am interested in swapping to the pearl media. I have a 16 gallon tank - do you suggest that I buy 1 or 2 bags? I can’t find any instructions on amount on the company website.
Hi Lisa. So, the Pearl Media is sold in 1kg packaging/ boxes. You should be able to get a reduced price if ordering multiple packs. The amount needed depends upon the base size of the tank. The Classic, Halo, Life and Loop all need 3kg of Pearl Media. However the Cube, which has a larger width base needs 4kg. Hope that helps. Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb so I have a 16 gallon classic. 3 bags, correct?
Yes, for a 16 g (60L) Classic, biOrb themselves indicate 3kg of Pearl Media (three packs): uk.biorb.com/products/pearl-media-1kg. Best, Mark
Still waiting on the last of my stuff arriving before I set up my brand new Biorb flow so decided to go with this new media. The main reason being I did not want my new tank getting scratched by the old spiky rock type. Got it off eBay for £36 ( for two boxes ) should be here Friday. Even more excited now. What gravel hoover do you recommend for this new media ?? Thanks.
Hey again. Yes, I would have opted for the Pearl (now that I've used it for some time). It is better than the previous using ceramic media/Alfagrog which i have used for many many years. Pearl is certainly the way to go! You might as well get it now and cycle the tank using it (saves all the messing around later if you went with ceramic media and then fancied changing later).
There is basically only one vac that works well in biOrbs (it works with bother ceramic media and the new Pearl). I use them week in week out to undertake all my water changes (five tanks) using the vac and for removing trapped waste. The product is made by only one manufacturer but it is sold under different product names (they are all the same, although costs might not be!). Get the battery version, rather than plug in electric (these seem to be very unreliable!). I use with rechargeable batteries... easy life! The vacs are just the right size for use in a biOrb (not overly cumbersome so can be easily manouvered around the tank ). Here are the current Amazon links to the vac I use: amzn.to/3wGwViS or amzn.to/3Y9zRA9 or amzn.to/3XTmlRu. You will probably find the supplied tubing is not long enough so you may need to extend it or fit replacement tubing. I reviewed the product on the Channel some time back here: th-cam.com/video/wtU0Cqx9yes/w-d-xo.html. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks Mark yer a star. Going to order that vac too. I really don't want to add up what I have spent in the last couple of weeks. I have another question for you but I will pop it in the relevant video. Thanks again.
Hey. All your videos are so knowledgeable and interesting, I got my Biorb pearl media yesterday but they look a bit smaller than the ones u have in this tank. Do they expand a little after a while?
Hi Thomas. Great to hear from you. The Pearl should vary between 10mm to 12mm in size. Whilst I describe them as being highly absorptive, this reflects that they allow good, but reduced, water flow through them. However, they are extremely stable in structure, meaning they will not breakdown, increase/decrease in size nor will they release materials into the aquarium water (i.e. wont alter pH, hardness etc). I have seen no evidence of the material breaking down (reducing) in all of my tanks.
Generally, any size of a suitable (for beneficial bacteria) substrate over "pea size" should work well in a biOrb as this size stops the media getting trapped under the central filter system. Other products on the market are often smaller and therefore need a barrier (sponge ring, adaption) to stop media getting trapped. This impacts on the biOrbs water flow through and under the gravel filter system.
I think that the size comparison you refer to, compared to my video, might be far more to do with my camera/distance angle. If you measure them they should be between 10-12mm. There would be no advantage for Oase biOrb in reducing the size of the product as they are sold in accordance to package weight. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks for very in-depth information. It all makes sense. 😊 I look forward to seeing more videos from your channel. Do you mostly showcase Biorb content or thinking of doing more on aquatics!
@Biorb should really hire you as their specialist and spokesperson! 👏🏻👌
Lol. The videos are really about helping new (biOrb) owners to set-up and maintain an aquarium suitable for maintaining fish. It also provides advice (though the comments) for owners experiencing issues. So, ultimately "biOrb ownership" is the Channel theme.
For the past two years I have been involved in setting-up 'half whisky barrel' fish ponds for outdoor use. It might be something to bring into this Channel as it is a bit like setting up a 100 litre biOrb for outdoor use! I need to think about that one.
Oase biOrb do link my videos to their Facebook site, but I get no support from them. It's just me...and you lot!
It's an owners only Channel... not sellers! :)
Hello Mark, after watching this video I'm in doubt if I should exchange my Ceramic Media with the Pearl Media. I can see a lot of advantage with the Pearl Media (safer for the fish, less chance for scratches, and a better function of the filter). The only thing I'm not sure of is the way they look. My tank has a natural look, with wood and green colours and I'm not sure if the Pearl Media can give a bit of a "fake" expression because of the colour and the shape, while the Ceramic Media looks more natural.
Maybe you can give me a last advice since you have exchanged your Ceramic Media with the Pearl Media.
Thanks and all the best to you.
Roel
Hi Roel. I would agree that, based on your tank's theme ("freshwater/woodland" type), the ceramic media would probably be more aligned to that look. I guess the Pearl Media lends itself far better to oceanic themes due to its sand based colour and appearance of pebbles. The only tank that I have with a more woodland theme is my Classic 60. This has Pearl Media in it but the design of the Classic tank means that media sits low in the tank's base and is largely out of sight. Hope that helps. Best wishes to you. M
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, thanks for your inspiration. I will follow my first intuition and keep the Ceramic Media. Thanks!
Roel
I can't seem to find the Biorb ceramic pearls, i looked on their site , where can i get them?
Hi. Hopefully the links I provided in the video's Description still work but, if not, try Amazon here: amzn.to/3XsuHQY.
Thanks! I'll have to have my neice help me, lol
Hi. Have you tested soyeahz ceramic bio balls?
Hi Janet. I am aware of the product but I haven't tested it. I am always wary or products that make big claims (especially on nitrate reduction) and this seems to be yet another one of them. I haven't seen any proper technical (long term) reviews of it and I'm also not sure it is designed to be used as a substrate material (i.e. seems to be aimed at use in tank filter systems). As a substrate material, and due to its small size, you would need to convert the biOrb filter to avoid the issue of the media going in and getting trapped under the filter. I'm not clear on the price as not many companies seem to be selling it or stocking it. From what I've seen, biOrb Pearl Media is a cheaper product per kilo. Hope that helps, Mark.
It does thanks!
Hey long time no speak! we’ll look to do the change. We can’t stand how difficult the ceramic media rocks are to clean the debris off of. I have a feeling a female minnow in my tank is ready to lay eggs for the males to fertilise! I just wondered what I did about the cleaning of the tank while this process is taking place? I’m new to this haha. Thanks.
Hey. Really nice to hear from you. I hope all is well. I'm now slowly converting over all my tanks to the new Pearls. I've being doing a lot of aquarium (substrate) testing lately and I'm glad to finally have a rest from all that messing around. So, sounds like you might be getting babies! lol. The only problem is the use of a vac. Their eggs are tiny! If they (she) seems to be content on laying eggs in a specific area then just avoid using a vac around that area. You might need to do a minimum approach -as long as water quality remains within roughly the right parameters. Eggs should hatch within a few days. Small fry can be problematic too but, if they all shoot to the opposite end of the tank and hide... then I would probably continue with it. The adults will be happy to feed on them though... but the ceramic media at least offers spaces to hide out of the way. All other things should be fine (e.g. cleaning sponge filters). When undertaking water changes (with fry present) you may need to put a fine mesh over the end of the vac or syphon (just to stop fry getting sucked up!). Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks that’s a great help :) I am pleased to have lost none or my minnow since I started my tank. I’m hoping it’s because I’m getting things right and the fact that they are quite a tough fish.
Hey Victoria. Yes, I would never expect to lose any new fish (unless there was some other reason behind that e.g. supplier quality). It is certainly a good indictor that you are doing things perfectly right! They are indeed tough fish (tolerant) , but, even then, if things are not right even hardy fish can suffer. I think it is mainly because you put a great deal of thought and effort into your aquarium planning before even adding any fish. So, it is mainly down to you! :)
@@StepbyStep-biOrbAww thank you, that’s really kind :) I’m very methodical in nature, I think it’s helped! I have definitely decided I will have a heated tank when I ever did it all again. Feel a lot more confident with it now. Have any of your fish had babies? Are you a grandad? Lol
Yes, heated tanks are probably a bit easier and certainly during cycling. I certainly have had fry well back in the past. You have to be careful that you don't end up having too many fish for the size of the tank. Nowadays I would generally avoid having males and females (e.e guppies, endler's) or choose fish that are not so easy to breed. But, as they say, nature always finds a way! Lol. x
Hi Mark. Another great video! I've been using the biohome media in two of my biorbs ( classic 60/life 45 ). About the same price as the new biorb pearls. About changing media in excisting aquarium. Why not use those nylon bags, fill it with pearls, or whatever media you want to use, and dump it in your tank for a few weeks? I keep a few bags lying in established aquariums in case I want start a new one. Cheers Tim
Hi Tim. Thanks for watching and for commenting. Much appreciated.
In short, it can certainly be done this way.... I've done it myself, but prefer the way I've shown.
There are different views, depending on the science behind it, that a tank's colony of beneficial bacteria exists at an equilibrium(ish!!) with a tank's ammonia and nitrite levels. I suppose this sort of makes sense (the size of the bacterial colony is food limited). So, adding some further media (in addition to the already existing media) doesn't necessarily "force" a full colonisation of the new media when it's added to an existing tank. Of course, removing some of the existing media or adding a few additional fish to an existing tank then adding the new media would certainly push colonisation of the new media. I've messed around with these different approaches over time and I've always found a quicker "bounce back" of a bacterial colony when an existing quantity of media material is removed and then a similar quantity of new media is added, especially when supported by adding a bacterial products for 2 -3 days. Care really needs to be applied with the amount of media removed and replaced. The method I show in the video, in all the cases I've done it, doesn't result in a notable ammonia or nitrite spikes (any change to these is barely readable using API testing). The remaining 2/3rds of existing bacteria certainly does support the addition of the new media. However, I've tried the same approach using a 50% replacement of existing with new and that certainly can trigger a short durational spike in ammonia and nitrite (not high levels and lasting two days generally). I suppose the key thing is to stick with what works for you and what you have confidence in. So if the bagged method works for you then certainly stick with that approach. Best wishes to you, Mark
Hi again mark,
you might remember that I bought a secondhand 60 litre life to get back into Fishkeeping after some years thanks to your videos and help I'm now starting to enjoy myself, Can't say I have been without a few problems but the joys of keeping any pet is solving in the problems.
What I would like to ask is although I changed the substrate it is still the volcanic rock type stuff, and I would like a couple of bottom feeders to Hoover up wasted Food et cetera but I have been told that it is not suitable for catfish type fish as they can hurt their mouths when nibbling on The rock, can you give me any suggestions please? Or should I think of changing to the Pearl Media it looks smoother and I am thinking that it may alleviate the problem, your advice as always is more than welcome, keep up the good work it must be pretty much a full time job for you looking after 4 tanks, it take me enough trying to sort out one Ha-Ha.
Hi again. Really nice to hear from you again. Generally, rough ceramic media can be detrimental to some bottom feeding fish, but this is more to do with wearing down barbels (rather than impacting on the mouth). If you want genuine ("true") bottom feeders then a move to Pearl Media would solve this (it is mainly what biOrb designed it for). The alternative would be to go for pygmy cory (catfish), which tend to be far more active off the bottom and spend a fair bit of time mid-water, often darting to the surface for air. They will often feed mid water but also like pecking at missed food off the bottom or off plants (including plastic). I've had them for many years on ceramic media without any issue. They are a very cute, really interesting fish, best introduced as a group (their small size allows this). Basically, they are tiny, you wont get much smaller, so they need to be added to a tank that doesn't hold larger species that may see them as prey!
Yes, four tanks can be a handful. I added to my burden this year by setting-up a half barrel whisky barrel pond in the garden. That was very hard work to do from scratch (learning curve needed and all that). Lots of green algae issues at first and it has taken me a little time to settle it all down. All is now stunningly perfect and my three comet gold fish are all very happy. Zero ammonia, zero nitrite and a constant zero nitrate thanks to all the stunning plants. Water as clear as glass! I now have my fingers crossed that a heron doesn't see the whole thing as a free-meal opportunity! :)
Best,
Mark
Hi after looking at reviews for biOrb decorations they seem to have a couple of problems. Hard to clean and the centre piece the colour flakes off. Please any advice.helen
Hi Helen. I have 5 biOrbs - all with centre pieces. No one of the ornaments or decorations I own have had colour paint flake off or have had any colour issues. I have had some of them for numerous years. I am aware, from this Channel, that some people have had issues with white decor (which I don't have). I think, if you keep clear of white biOrb decorations, you will have no problem. In terms of cleaning, that's easy - see my video on bleach cleaning as a super easy way to clean sculptures, decorations and plastic plants - this avoid scrubbing with brushes etc and restores these items to looking new: th-cam.com/video/F7kyzUiSN5Y/w-d-xo.html. Hope that helps. Best wishes and thanks for your comments. Mark
I've checked on the availability of the pearl media in the states. Biorb only says "it will be available soon" in the US. I've checked with UK stores and UK Ebay sites and nobody will ship it overseas. Anxiously awaiting as it would be much easier to start off with this and my tank arrives soon!
Hi Jill. Yes I thought that might be a problem. It is a fairly new product so distribution is likely to be slow at first. The first very early batch I got imported into the UK. However it is now reasonably easier to get (but only from a very limited number of suppliers). I'm not sure whether it can be shipped to the US via AmazonUK?: amzn.to/3UMlwZn.
I was able to get the pearl media shipped over to the US from Europe. I’m wondering if you’ve noticed any pH spikes caused since you’ve added it. My tap water registers at 7.2. My aquarium water is 8.0! Only thing in the tank was driftwood and the media, no fish yet. Trying to figure out what’s going on.
Hi Jill. The rise in pH is likely to be reflecting the "true pH" of your tap water. As tap water is left to stand it releases gases and this shifts the water's pH. The way to test this is to run your cold water tap for one minute, then fill a glass with water. Leave this to stand for two days and then undertake a pH test of it. This should confirm a similar pH to what is in your tank. Even a test after 24 hours should start to show this shift. Let me know if not. The drift wood you have will likely release tannin (the extent depends on the type of wood and amount) which will result in a yellow/brown colouring of your aquarium water. Tannin can lower tank pH a little bit (again the extent of this being dependent on the type of wood and how long the tannin is allowed to build in the water between water changes and how much KH is in your water). Hope that helps, best wishes, Mark
Interesting. I will do this test. Do you think then that adding in zero water would help lower the pH?
Hi. Basically tap water will have a varying level of CO2 depending on the area of water source. CO2 comes from natural sources (e.g. decomposing vegetation, soils) but can also come from things like air pollution. The level of CO2 will also show seasonal variations in your tap. The CO2 retains a lower pH initially but as this off-gases the pH in the water will rise (the extent being dependent somewhat on how much CO2 is in your water supply). In my case, the true pH reading is not a great deal different from the initial tap reading.
ZeroWater may reduce pH but this wouldn't be a great deal and this is dependent on KH in your water (i.e. the ability of your water to buffer - or bounce back- to the standard pH level). If you have a ZeroWater jug then it is certainly worth experimenting using 1/3rd zero to 2/3rds tap and also 50/50 zero/tap, just to see what that does. Again, the test should be on the water after being left to stand. For a biOrb, I would normal use filtration of tap water (using things like ZeroWater/ RO DI) to deal mainly with things like high tap nitrate levels (say 25ppm upwards). There are products, such as pH-up and pH-down that can be used to alter pH, but I have seen both negative and positive reviews on adding these types of things. Chasing a specific pH level for an aquarium is not always the easiest thing to do (esp. if you are new to the hobby), when compared to choosing fish that are better suited to the tap water quality you have.
Hi All. I'm trying to get my hands on the new Biorb pearl media as well as the new intelligent heater. Can someone please tell me where I can order these from? I'm in the States. TYIA!
Hi Kim. If that was a question about the UK I could easily answer it. Have you tried contacting the biOrb North America office to ask which retailers might stock these?
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hello Mark. Thank you for your reply. The US site doesn't have either of them and I'm in the process of redesigning my 105L and I really hate the media. It's really difficult to get underneath it. I have a 50ft hose with a transfer that I use to clean the tank on a weekly basis and trying to get underneath it creates chaos in the tank and my plants get moved around and then I need to replant and try to anchor them again.
I was thinking that the pearl media would be easier and less chaotic. I also have an LED 28 heater that I have to suction to the side of the tank and the accuracy is failing by 2-3 degrees.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb I'm hoping that the UK store will deliver to the US!
Hey Kim. Didn't know you had a 105! Great tank (big envy from my side! Lol). Yes, I'm going to say that the new Pearl Media is probably going to be better for you. I'm really (add another "really"!) happy with it... in the tanks I have. I will convert all of them over the next few weeks. I've tested numerous (so called "alternative") products but they all end-up being problematic in the long term. It's good that Oase have come up with something that is specifically designed for biOrbs and avoids all the messing around with conversions. I intend to do a 6-month review video on Pearl Media in the future (but I already have a gut feeling it will be a positive one). The distribution (outlets) seems to be very slow... and even in the UK/Europe! I ended up having to get my first supply of the product imported to the UK - so that I could start testing reasonably in advance of producing a video. In terms of UK, the main distributer of Pearl Media seems to be supplier/shop called Aquacadabra. I've recently ordered more through them. It might be worth phoning them to see if they will help you with US shipping etc (it's a great supplier, and I'm sure they may help you if you contact them directly!). Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Yes, the tank is beautiful and very big. It is cumbersome to clean sometimes so I'm trying to make it easier. Luckily, (thanks to your suggestion of Aquacadabra), a good friend is going home to England for Christmas and I have the heater and media being shipped to her parents! I'm not thrilled about having to wait till December, but at least I'll get free shipping :)
Looking at that media in the bottom of that tank I would say that it has very large gaps between it, that food and waste can get trapped in , but also the fish cannot manage to get to. Also, this does not look to be very easy to get a gravel cleaner into, to clean this. You also did not mention anything about the media reducing nitrates. Biogravel from the Biohome range solves all of these issues and is possibly even a little cheaper.
Hi Les. Really nice to hear from you.
Yes, the Pearl Media does have gaps but this is crucial for a biOrb under gravel filter system, which relies on water flow through, and under the media. This allows waste to be drawn to the central filter but also supports water quality due to oxygen flow and water circulation for beneficial bacteria. My experience shows that waste does not get overly get trapped (no more than any other product I've tested, including Biohome) but that also comes down to undertaking regular maintenance (e.g. a suitable gravel vac), which is also required for all media types suitable for the biOrb filter system.
I can remove all waste under the media with a vac... very easily.
The key benefit of the Pearl Media is that is needs no filter conversion at all (with additional sponges which also act as a trap for waste).
I have certainly evidenced a good reduction in nitrates since converting to Pearl Media although I'm not sure biOrb makes any such claims for nitrate reduction. That's up to them, and I'm not going to do a video on what I've found!
My Channel is not aimed at being a product sales Channel, biOrb or not. Certainly, if you are convinced that Biohome is the product for you... great... go for it! I'm sure, it is a good product. Best wishes, Mark
btw.... Good luck with your Channel. Looks great! M
Thanks for your response. The maintenance is key and if not kept on top of, a lot of waste and uneaten food will be trapped away from the fish ,which will soon pollute. This is where many people will fail if not prepared for it. Good to see the Biorb range putting some long overdue improvements in place as these aquariums have a very bad reputation, which is a shame.@@StepbyStep-biOrb
Not a problem. Maintenance is key regardless of the media, especially removing waste. There simply isn't a media on the market on that doesn't need maintenance and waste removal. Anything that says otherwise is just sales pitch/ snake oil.
The simpler, and more efficient, the system in a biOrb, the better the outcome in terms of water quality, fish health etc and ease of maintenance. Since first using Pearl Media in just one of my tanks, I have now upgraded to this on all 5 tanks. My choice is based on thorough review of other key products on the market. I am very happy with the outcome of using Pearl over the past year or so.
I tried to order the Pearl Media on Amazon in the US and says currently unavailable.
Hi Kim. Yes, I am aware of the limited distribution to the US. Numerous Subscribers from the US have raised this issue. I understand that Oase biOrb are only indicating that it will be in the US soon. Best, Mark.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you
Not a problem. The intention of the video is to make sure people follow certain steps if they plan to get and use Pearl Media. Hopefully, you will be able to get it very soon and you will know exactly what to do with it when you get it. Thanks for watching and for supporting my Channel. :-)
What biorb tank is that?
Hi Darren. It is a 30L FLOW, white, MCR.
Hello! Isn’t this similar to EHEIM Substrat Pro Biological Filter Media (Sintered Pearl-Shaped Glass)? I’m currently setting up a 2nd BiOrb, and could I just use that instead until BiOrb Pearl Media becomes available in the U.S.?
Hello.
Yes, but not really! The Eheim seems similar but in fact it isn't at all! It is a much smaller size, so needs to be used with a conversion sponge to stop it going under the biOrb's filter canister. The really bad news it is that it constantly beaks down (sheds) material. It never seems to stop doing this! However, the Pearl Media is of a size specifically designed for the biOrb filter but is also far more stable in its structure. Both products are porous... but I would say the Pearl Media is better in this respect. Porosity is better if it is slowed through the media to some extent. The porosity of Pearl Media is fairly slow (hence the 'hiss' that lasts for a good 30 mins and the need to soak!). The Eheim is mainly designed for use in a filter sump rather than use as an aquarium substrate. However, Pearl Media is only designed to be a substrate. Some other filter "sump materials" are not initially designed to be used as a substrate material. Later, they are often promoted as being "purposely designed" for this use. Sorry, not true!
I have extensively tested a broad range of media/substrate products. In fact, I'm fully sick of doing it and so am currently having a rest!
Size wise, Seachem Pond Matrix is probably a better bet than the Eheim, if you are really desperate for an alternative to the biOrb media. It is a better size than Eheim and is more structurally stable (doesn't shed so much). It does need a fair bit of rinsing before adding to the tank. But it is very costly as a material and for the quantities needed to form the substrate across the whole of a biOrb base. Seachem makes claim (like various other products) to support anaerobic bacteria and a reduction or complete removal of tank nitrates. After 10 months of full-on testing I saw no such thing! Colour wise It is a very pale grey colour (based on pumice... very occasional new pieces do float due to air being trapped inside, but these will normally sink after 24 hours). The product would work if you wanted a very pale substrate.
What I would do:
I would certainly save the money! I'd stick with biOrb Ceramic Media (Alfagrog E25) to establish the tank etc and then swap over to Pearl Media when the distribution of this improves in the US. Or, find a EU supplier that will ship to the US.
I hope that helps.
Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you very much for this information! I will wait until the Pearl Media comes out then. Have a wonderful day!
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, I have been using a layer of traditional media (grog) around the filter to prevent the eheim pro to enter the filter. this does work too... so you don't need the sponge in that case :) might be a tip. alternatively you could use the pearl media and use that too as a prevention layer. I found the eheim substrate prettier in the biorb because of its smaller , more natural look .
Hi Sabine. Thanks for a great comment (contribution). Yes, I can really see how that would work... using alfagrog as the mechanism to act as a barrier to the smaller Eheim Pro (and messing around with the biOrb filter,) Great idea, well beyond me to think of that! Your idea would do away with having to use a silly second sponge on the outside of the filter!! :).
BTW: I have another spare 30L biOrb which I plan to use to fully test out biohome gravel substrate this year (and the product claims of nitrate reduction). I think I might just apply what you suggest. I'll certainly namecheck you with coming up with that idea! Great tip! Thanks again. Mark x
Hi Mark, I have been cycling for 2 weeks now. I’d like to swap to this media at some point. How would I do that? Gradually remove the old style media and replace with the pearl media over a few months? Thanks Emma
Hi Emma. I would suggest that you leave your tank to settle for several months. After that, feel free to swap over. It should be done gradually to avoid causing peaks in ammonia and nitrite. The Description of the video (hopefully!) covers what you need to do in this scenario. Click on 'Read More', under the video, and then this will open the Description I am referring to. I hope this covers what you need to know. Shout if not! Nice to hear from you, Mark.
Using the method I describe (one third at a time, with several days between) you should be able to change from ceramic media to Pearl in about 9 days.
Thanks very much for the quick reply! I’ll definitely wait a while then change bits over slowly. Realistically will shrimp and bottom feeders be able to manage with the old media for a few months? Thanks Emma
Not a problem. Shrimps will be fine, ceramic media is more akin to natural habitat. They will tend to go around, through and under most things. What bottom feeders do you have?
Hi Mark, I don’t have any at the moment as it’s cycling. It’s my first aquarium and with the help of your videos I think it’s going pretty well so far, but starting out is A LOT to take in. I think I’m overthinking it. I definitely do want shrimp so as long as they’re fine with the media I can change it gradually over time. I’m going for Tetra, due to my soft water (picked up in your video when you added Tetra to your tank) thanks very much for the replies. I have a biorb cube 60l so not really sure what to put in it or how many. Love the Phantom Tetra in your video though 🤷🏻♀️
I switched out half of my ceramic media to the pearls. There was much gunk released into the water that it made me think that my tank isn’t filtering sufficiently. Ugh!
Hi Lisa. Are you using a gravel vacuum as part of your weekly maintenance of the substrate? A vac should remove most of the waste accumulation. Despite biOrb claims, the filter (and that goes for most aquariums) will NOT draw all waste material to it. It will, to some extent, which is why the sponge filter needs to be cleaned. Some material will remain under the media if not extracted with a vac and will build up over time if left. As I mentioned, this isn't just a biOrb thing, all aquariums will need to have their substrate (sand, gravel etc) maintained using a vac or syphon to remove waste build-up. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb I am, but maybe I’m not using a good one. The water was pretty filthy. I will check your video library in the event that you have recommended a gravel vacuum, but if you have not, let me know what you suggest.
Hi Lisa. Yes, I have a video covering vac testing: th-cam.com/video/wtU0Cqx9yes/w-d-xo.html. There is currently only one type of vac that works with ceramic media and peal media. It also works well within the refined area of a biOrb. It is this one: amzn.to/46SFyrq. The vac needs to be operated without the clear sand filter component on - just use with the blue tip. This will easily push through media and down to the bottom of the tank and will extract waste. You just add the filter bag (collector) and adjust the depth of the vac to suit your tank. I would suggest use of it weekly or every two weeks... this just to keep on top of the waste. You should see your water quality(clarity) improve greatly if you use it regularly. The vac is also good for undertaking water changes. If you need any advice on other things just shout. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb alas, this is not available in the U.S. was there a gravel cleaner that came in second place in your studies?
Okay. I'm not aware of another types that works. The product is sold under different names (but all made by the same company in China). You should be able to find it on US Amazon if you search using 'aquarium gravel vac'. Ideally get the battery version rather than one that works off mains power supply. I think this one is available in the US if you can't find the battery version: www.amazon.com/LONDAFISH-Electric-Vacuum-Cleaner-Operated/dp/B089W8QXYB/ref=sr_1_29?crid=1VRF2YMJ53W72&keywords=Aquarium+gravel+vac&qid=1689435638&sprefix=aquarium+gravel+vac%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-29. The give away, apart from them looking all the same is it possessing a dark blue tip at the end of the vacuum pipe. Hopefully, you can track one down.