I happen to have acquired an old bosendorfer which appears black but one can see that it was painted over. In any case it was pretty banged up, plus it was exposed to a leaking roof, so the finish was badly damaged. I had it painstakingly filed down to the wood which is rather nice, I would say mahogany on the lighter side. the question now is what to do to get the finish on it. I am leaning toward beeswax. I don't like hard core chemicals and I am not going to send it to a car bodyshop to have polyester high gloss....How do you feel about a beeswax finish once the wood has been smoothed and cleaned?
I do piano refinishing down in Virginia. In the past I have been using black tinted MLCampbell pre-cat lacquers. They are great high build finishes…..but…..they are not the deep dark ebony that Steinway lacquers uses. Do you have a suggestion for a source to purchase this material? Mohawk black aerosols are close to the deep ebony….but I need it in bulk…gallons, and in pre-cat if that is available. I have a 25 year old B that was on a stage and banged up pretty bad…..I am going to fill the dings, and sand into the existing finish enough to provide good adhesion for the new top coats. Thoughts?
Why not just buy pre cat mohawk in bulk? Its what we use to refinish and we can get it from our local shop. Same stuff in the cans but in larger quantities.
In the guitar world, some people claim that the difference in sound between a guitar finished in lacquer and one finished in a newer material such as polyurethane is noticeable - although I have seen others convincingly dismiss such claims. Are you aware of any difference in the acoustics of a piano finished in one of these two materials or the other? Any insights along these lines would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Another reason that concert pianos have satin or matte finishes, especially ones that are used in concerts is to cut down on the amount of light that reflects off them. This is specially important if the concert is being filmed or is on TV.
I've refinished veneers before, but little can be found about the final finish on Grand Piano Company in the early 1970's that proper method escapes detection. There is no sign of fracturing or chipping, just a little flaking where the wear is taking place. As I've slowly cleaned and made repairs to the internals I'm now nearing the point when i have to settle on the case repair and its protection. I'd just scuff it and paint it like the repurposing world is so keen on, but just find chalk finish, and distressing totally gouche and even plain tasteless. Guess this is the game we play when working on inexpensive consumer pianos.
Could you get your shop technicians to do a demonstration of repairing a gloss black polyester finish on the piano?
I happen to have acquired an old bosendorfer which appears black but one can see that it was painted over. In any case it was pretty banged up, plus it was exposed to a leaking roof, so the finish was badly damaged. I had it painstakingly filed down to the wood which is rather nice, I would say mahogany on the lighter side. the question now is what to do to get the finish on it. I am leaning toward beeswax. I don't like hard core chemicals and I am not going to send it to a car bodyshop to have polyester high gloss....How do you feel about a beeswax finish once the wood has been smoothed and cleaned?
Thanks
How do you know with older pianos
for the sake of minor cosmetic corrections?
Can a polyester high gloss cherry colored baby grand that is faded on one side from the sun be refinished?
I do piano refinishing down in Virginia. In the past I have been using black tinted MLCampbell pre-cat lacquers. They are great high build finishes…..but…..they are not the deep dark ebony that Steinway lacquers uses. Do you have a suggestion for a source to purchase this material? Mohawk black aerosols are close to the deep ebony….but I need it in bulk…gallons, and in pre-cat if that is available. I have a 25 year old B that was on a stage and banged up pretty bad…..I am going to fill the dings, and sand into the existing finish enough to provide good adhesion for the new top coats. Thoughts?
Why not just buy pre cat mohawk in bulk? Its what we use to refinish and we can get it from our local shop. Same stuff in the cans but in larger quantities.
Wurdack
Thanks
I recently tried touching up the finish on a 1980 Mason & Hamlin style 50 upright piano sold in hand-rubbed walnut finishepolyurethane
In the guitar world, some people claim that the difference in sound between a guitar finished in lacquer and one finished in a newer material such as polyurethane is noticeable - although I have seen others convincingly dismiss such claims. Are you aware of any difference in the acoustics of a piano finished in one of these two materials or the other? Any insights along these lines would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Another reason that concert pianos have satin or matte finishes, especially ones that are used in concerts is to cut down on the amount of light that reflects off them. This is specially important if the concert is being filmed or is on TV.
I've refinished veneers before, but little can be found about the final finish on Grand Piano Company in the early 1970's that proper method escapes detection. There is no sign of fracturing or chipping, just a little flaking where the wear is taking place. As I've slowly cleaned and made repairs to the internals I'm now nearing the point when i have to settle on the case repair and its protection. I'd just scuff it and paint it like the repurposing world is so keen on, but just find chalk finish, and distressing totally gouche and even plain tasteless. Guess this is the game we play when working on inexpensive consumer pianos.
What brand of polyester do you recommend?
Seller makes pianos in China. German design, China built.