My furnace is about 7 years old, I moved into my house about 5 years ago. First year living in this house, we could feel good pressure of air-flow coming through the registers, but we are now in 5th year in this house, the air pressure or volume air coming through the registers is not so much. I replaced new furnace air-filter, checked the blower itself, the blower has hardly any dust clogged up, I checked condenser right above the blower is free of any dust or any clogged. Yet the air pressure coming through the register seems to be half of air we used to felt like in the first years living in this house, maybe I need to replace blower motor? Any advise. AC and heating works, but air pressure or volume of air is not so much.
Thank you for your video. had 2 HVAC guy's look at my blower and tell me I needed a new blower. When in fact it was just wrong wiring. I saved myself another call out. Thank you for making this video.
I discovered this when cleaning my flame sensor today. Figured out that my furnace was set to low cool and med low heat. No wonder heat never made it to the far parts of the house! Set it to med high cool and high heat. Works so so so much better now!
@@gbaby3180 That I suppose would be true depending on the size of unit. Mine I imagine is of quite a good rating because man it puts out hot air for sure.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this video. My furnace was throwing a low air flow error. The temperature limit switch was tripping it. After much research and consternation, I came across this video. They had configured heat with the lowest speed blower wire. The factory book recommends putting the highest speed wire on heat. I changed the configuration around and bam..... no more temp out issues.
Had all kinds of problems, finally fixxed it! Simple! Take the red wire out of ur blower motor 1 position then plug it into your #2 position! Over 10 15 20 yrs the contacts wear out or get blackened whear no contact results! Simple fix for me took several weeks for me to fix my central heat for free! Do move the wires around before u start taking apart the motor !
Have you seen the new Goodman variable speed furnaces? The board is bluetooth controlled, no more dip switches. You control all your speed settings and start up through the CoolCloud goodman app through your phone. It's pretty slick. I like them. When u have a service call. I just link my phone to board b4 I step foot in customers house. And i already know what going on n what's wrong with the unit all b4 stepping foot in their house.
wow..that is cool...most stuff i service is apartments and three deckers with old stuff..i ran into a milivolt boiler from the 1970s few weeks back and it was still going strong just need a new powerpile..
I got a new unit installed and it seemed very loud and too powerful. The techs said it's working normally and I would get used to the new "efficient" unit. Thanks to this video I now know they're either unknowledgeable about this or just didn't want to bother coming back. I'm still deciding if I want to give this a shot myself or call insist on a return visit, but either way THANK YOU for showing me it's possible to adjust CFM.
I see this Video was put out a year ago so don't know if you still monitor it , My question is Our Residential Central heat & air is like 15 yrs old ( knock on wood she's still chugging along ) hoping to upgrade this Winter, Ive cleaned the outdoor Condenser Unit last week , flushed the outsides coils , removed the leaves & accumulated dirt sitting in the bottom of the pan , An today I went up in the attic an pulled the panels on The Air Handler Unit , I cleaned The Evaporator coils with some spray cleaner, took a soft nylon brush similar to a giant toothbrush to clean off the big chucks , an then dragged the Garden Hose up there an blasted it , at first the water would not flow thru it ,I pulled the Blower motor housing out an cleaned the blades on the squirrel cage fan . This like doubled the Air Flow coming out of the register vents . Also I popped the cover on the antique wall mounted thermostat that has that lil Mercury bulb in it took a small brush to everything an cleaned it to remove the dust & checked my wire connectors on the back . Right now the blower in the Air Handler is set in low I have a total of 3 pins, L M H , would it be feasible to run the Blower on Medium Speed ,
Could you do a step by step video on converting from an ECM to a PSC motor. A lot of techs could use this information. I don't do videos, but you do, and I think it would be very helpful for all techs. thanks
nota newbie I understand your motive here (cost) but besides the huge liability and the completely different voltages used (speed taps), the ECM is a better motor in several ways. The ECM motor is up to 75% more efficient, it is soft start, runs cooler and the speeds, on/off delay are completely programable. Heck a new ECM X-13 motor even figures out on it own the correct rotational direction. The ECM is supposed to last longer (but I personally haven’t seen that). And ECM X-13 changeout is incredibly easy - just plug-n-play and difficult to screw up. In reality a control board is not needed as you could run wires straight from the thermostat to the speed taps on the motor. I’ve seen that Carrier has stopped using a control board in several units now. My advice is shop around as ECM X-13 motor prices vary greatly. They’re all made by the same company, Genteq and stamped with “The Dealer Toolbox.com”.
Nota Newbie, I would like to do one in the future along with an oem ecm to retrofit ecm replacement, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see! Thank you all as well for each of your input!
This is good for teaching a homeowners' buddy how to mess w his airflow. Otherwise an employed technician would already have been told the basics by another tech where to change speeds, and look at charts in the manual hopefully left on site if wanting to adjust dipswitches for whatever reason. Basically dont touch anything unless u have experience. Thanks for taking the time though n maybe there is a new employee for a small company that gets no help from other techs n learned something here so kudos for that.
I mentioned that I actually see the speeds incorrectly set on too many units out in the field. It may not be main service techs but maybe installers that are sent to start units up that may not be aware of it. I think it is just techs not taking the time to read the install manual to set the unit up properly but it results in a bad install even after all that hard work that was put into it, thanks!
Gotcha. I hear ya n very true. Side note, lot of service calls lately w people using portable humidifiers n clogging filters within a matter of weeks causes issues. Minerals in the water floating around causing dust. The calcium i assume. Using distilled water would be better for those.
Hello, I recently got a brand system in my home in FL. It is a straight cool system with a heater coil. The compressor was also replaced. My air handler is located in a closet in the hallway with the return grill facing the living room. The new unit cools great but it is way louder and it has way too much airflow compared with the old one. I can hear a lot of airflow noise coming in the return grill by the living room and it is pretty annoying. I can see the air filter trying to collapse from the increased airflow. The technicians checked the speed taps and they told me it is in the lowest setting and there is not much else that can be done. This was installed back in February. I have been trying to get used to the noise but it is too much. I am familiar with replacing these motors and most of the ECM modules. The current motor is a Genteq Endura Pro with the same ECM control module that I have replaced before on my old unit. This new module has a sticker on it that says: " This motor is programmed to: hi #5 (100%), med #4(91%) and low #1-3(81%). So in reality I only have 3-speed taps instead of 5. My old air handler motor the ECM module came with 5-speed taps and I adjust it accordingly. A new replacement Genteq ECM module for the new Endura Pro comes with 5-speed taps like the previous modules that I have replaced before from Genteq but it comes with 5-speed taps. If I replace the ECM module of the new air handler with a newer ECM replacement module with 5-speed taps, Would that give me two additional slower speeds than the current module at 81%? Because I will be able to quiet down the unit some more. I understand the airflow would be less but I believe that the current ductwork which is 25 years old is not designed for that much airflow and they did not do an airflow test before or after. Most of these companies sell the units by sqft which is an important factor but I feel the ductwork has to also be the appropiate size. My ductwork is all made of fiberglass panels. I appreciate your input on this. Amazing videos by the way. Very instructive and helpful. Thank you!
Kudos to you. You always make great videos man. Can you explain why do need to set your blower speeds at different speeds when you have a 2 stage outdoor unit?
I have a question. We have a Frigidaire furnace made by Nordyne. It has a two stage burner and a variable speed blower. One day last fall/winter the blower would not come on. Checked the fault code which suggested overtemp in the burner which would be normal if the blower was not running. That fault shut down the burner which gave us the fault code. Tried to run the fan in manual. Could hear the relay click on the circuit board, so I assumed the problem was the blower and not the board. Took the blower out, got numbers off the blower motor and asked our guy if he could get a blower motor. A day later he said yes, but it would take 4 days and would cost me $1200.00. WOW! That was for the motor only that did not include the module on the end of the motor. What a mistake that would have been to get that motor as it was not the problem, but rather the motor module. I started watching TH-cam videos about variable speed blowers not working. Many like ours go out because of a thermistor on the motor module. After looking, our thermistor was cracked. The part numbers were not clear but I found some info about our part and a cross reference number. Got the part, installed it and all is well. The motor does seem to run perhaps a little slower. I notice that because I used to get a harmonic sound out of the registers that I do not get now. Does the thermistor sense temperature build up in the plenum box? Does the thermistor sense static pressure perhaps that builds up during the heat up after the burner comes on? I wonder about it's function because I wonder why the thermistor cracked. Seems this is a common problem. Maybe because the air filter which is April Air 2200 was perhaps dirty and was impeding the air flow which could effect the static pressure inside the blower box. Any suggestions would be appreciated. This has been a great furnace and was a replacement during a home addition project. We had a Manual D load calculation run to help us determine new duct sizes, return air sizes and even the size of the furnace and air compressor. I totally believe in properly sizing eveything in the system now. It has been beautiful and well balanced throughout the entire house.
I wonder if the ECM's are worth the failure rate? 1/3hp PCM 600 watts vs ECM 250watts saving 350 watts at 12 cents kwh x 6 hrs /day+ $92/yr is good savings. But for average homeowner that can get negated by replacing ECM too often vs a PCM that lasts 25 years. Also the less heat generated by ECM doesn't have to be removed from AC mode saving but not a factor in heating actual helping. Still need good static pressures in any case, very important!
Those ecm heads are SUPER expensive too. I've replaced some where just ecm control head was $500 my cost, that's not including the motor part either. So add more $$ for that.
Also ecm no longer have an external capacitor you can replace, they are in that ecm control head now. So if capacitor goes guess what...u gotta replace entire head. But ecm are the way of the future, they're gonna be on everything shortly for energy consumption. I was saying in another comment, on the newer Goodman var. Speed units. They have zero dipswitches now. The main board is bluetooth, u link ur phone and control all your speed and startup through an app with your phone. And when unit breaks down. No more board light codes. You connect to bluetooth and it will tell you EVERYTHING going on with that unit and even the parts u need to fix it. Pretty cool.
Brennen-steve Higgins. That may be true, but sometimes old school is better and last longer. PSC motors have been around for a very long time, test proven. No need for smart phones.
@@watermanone7567 I can agree, stuff today def isnt made like stuff from years ago. But im for anything that makes my job/trade easier and less tools and equipment for me to carry around. So a cell phone over meters, jumpers etc..I'm all for it lol.
Yeah depending on the customer and install, the cost savings may be negated by the breakdown and replacement. What I don't like is that the customer has a breakdown period, regardless of the cost. I don't want them to think it was something that may have been done wrong on the install job even after explaining how it can happen. Thanks for all of your input!
AC Tech answered this question already in earlier comments. The answer was... YES. You can add a jumper wire so that cool and heat use the same fan speed. Any unused wires should be wire nut capped and electrical taped.
I will be putting put more airflow videos in the future. I did one on the temp rise formula for electric strip heating on an air handler. You can use the same technique for a gas furnace except the formula is slightly different do to the gas combustion. Temp rise formula for gas furnace=(Input BTU/HR x Combustion Efficiency) / (1.08 x Delta T)
Thanks so much for this video. I'm looking for a second opinion if possible. I had a HVAC pro replace some parts on my furnace, including the board and the fan, and now when the furnace kicks on I hear the fan for about 60 seconds, then it pauses, and continues. The tech told me that is normal, something to do with it being a single-speed fan but the board is trying to switch, so there is that pause. It's kind of annoying and I'm wondering if it can be fixed by adjusting some settings on the new board.
Thank you so much for your time , effort and educational videos would you please tell what is that Dip switch by it self for on the last variable speed control board thanks
This is purely my problem - there is very loud noise when the furnace is running. The technician said I need to reduce the motor speed. I have three wires: black for cool, blue for heat, and red as a spare, M1. The technician said to connect the red wire to heat, the blue wire to cool, and remove the black wire completely (to the M1 slot). But now I watched Your video and I'm not sure if I should do that. Could I damage my furnace by doing this?
Hello, I love your videos, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with everyone like you do! You never explained how to change the speed on the PSE blower. You showed that the AC is in the higher speed connector which was black and stood for cold, the blue was in the slower connector. However, you never showed us how to change the speed if I wanted to. My carrier 58MCB080-12120 HVAC keeps giving me error 21 Gas Heating lockout. I have replaced most parts but it still keeps tripping after working for a good day or two. I’m thinking the heat switch is thinking it’s overheating and keeps causing the crash. I also can tell that the blower speed is very low which could be causing the overheating. How do I increase the speed of my blower? As you described in your first blower model it does have a capacitor with a solid brown and brown with a white stripe. Thank you in advance!
ACSERVICETECH, Can you make a lesson about measuring CFM and Air Flow measurements because most AC conditioning techs will measure the temperature but don't know how to measure the CFM and Air Flow. What happens is that the temperature of the AC vents compared to the temperature of the room will have a Delta temperature but the CFM and Air flow will not be set correctly so your electrical bill will be very high at the end of the month because it takes longer to cool down the room or multiple rooms in the house or apt because of the CFM and Air Flow not being set correctly.
Just after 6:32 you mentioned that if you lower the blower cfm you can take more humidity out of the building. Can you explain that in a little more detail?
spelunkerd: If the unit runs longer to reach temp. setting is lowers the humidity more. If it short cycles it never gets a chance to ring the humidity out of the air.
Running at a lower speed, allows the evap coil to get colder extracting more moisture via condensation and the condensate to begin to run off instead of cling to the fins. In moderate temps, the AC may not run long enough to get the condensate flowing and thus the airflow after the compressor shuts off will just evaporate the moisture back into the indoor air. One profile I saw for a variable speed blower motor was to run the blower at 75% for the first 10 minutes of the cooling cycle when selected for de-humidification in the blower set up. Other units are controlled by a dehum signal from the thermostat or humistat.
I think you said if you speed up the blower to high you don’t get chance to take more humidity cause the temp is gonna reach the set temperature on stat before taking off enough humidity and if you lower it it can take more humidity because is going to run more before reaching set temperature point on stat correct me please thanks
Spelunkerd, the lower temp on the coil mixed with an increase in run time, and the humidity in the air moving slower across the coil increases humidity removal, thanks Waterman one, JK Brown, Karim, and Timothy! Great input!
On your first example with a PCS it had 1 speed for heat and 1 for cool, but what if you wanted say medium for both? I'm sure you can but I wondered how with wiring, it must take place on board. Thx
You simply look at the wiring schematics on the replacement/rescue motor to see what speed taps are what wires and just put those to your heat and cool terminals on board.almost all motors are high, med high, med low and low. Hope this helps
You can add a jumper from the cool tap to the heat tap and then connect the blower speed to the heat or the cool if you have an additional spade on your jumper wire. Then take the leftover wire that does not have a park terminal on the board to connect to and cut the end off, wire nut and zip tie in place, thanks!
this may be a dumb question but how do you know to set the CFM to the TONS of the system how do you know like what color and or dip switches push x amount of air. if that makes sense
my instructor just said remember the basics....trying to push heat up you dont need to fan on super high..heat rises....trying to push cool air up ..you want the higher speed ..cool air falls... and of course the opposite for rooftop units..
For heat, you don't want too high of a fan speed or the occupant will feel cold due to the extra air movement that will cause the humidity on their skin to evaporate which cools people down. This is the opposite of what you want during winter. That is why hot water baseboard feels so comfortable. Air is only moving through convection and the people do not feel so dry.
Is there any way to decrease the fan speed to a lower setting without getting a furnace to overheat? Like tuning the gas valve to let in less gas or changing orifice size?
Hey Craig, I know youre a busy guy, but do you think you could make a video on how newer eev, defrost and afm boards communicate with the main control boards with DC voltage in Tams?
That would really depend on each manufacturer so it won't be something that translates across the board but I know what you mean. Thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
Hi My new split air conditioner indoor fan speef is slow even at the highest speed setting Is there a modification I can make to increase the fan speed above factory setting?
What if you have only 1 wire for your blower motor and slot 1 is low 2 is med. and 3 is high and the schematic is showing that the goes to #2 med.. my question is, can I swap the power to (3 high) without causing damage to its relation to the Cooling. So how do you know when and when it’s not ok to do that. I would prefer it on 3. Heater is the white wire which on the diagram is supposed to go into #4 med high.
I have a 3 ton AC unit and a 80% single stage gas furnace that has a BTU input of 80,000 and output of 64,000 and furnace says it’s 1600cfm with a 9 speed ECM motor. What should the heat speed be and then the cool speed be set on? This is just what’s in my house and has been heating and cooling great with no problems at all. Cool speed is currently on high which I assume is the 1600cfm but should it be on med or med/high for 1200cfm? I realize that it appears to be sized wrong for this 2500 sq ft 2 story newer house but it’s been trouble free for whatever reason. I’m in Portland Oregon.
I lost my commit ?? Here's my Question I live in Florida, my unit is a 3 ton 5k, residential heat and air. I clean the outside condenser last week removed all the leaves and trash from the bottom of it flush the coils with water. Today I pull the panels on the evaporator that's up in the attic it was nasty, and used some coil cleaner and a soft nylon brush and finally I just drag the garden hose up there and slowly blasted it, at first the water would not flow from one side to the other in the beginning, I remove the blower Motor housing and cleaned the blades on the squirrel cage fan, Also we have a Antique wall mounted thermostat I I popped a cover and lightly dusted and cleaned it up , this doubled the output of air coming through the vent registers in the house , my blower motor has three tabs , L M H . Right now the blower motor is set on low. Could I set the blower motor on Medium Speed ? , I understand with it being set on low that increases the runtime so it removes more humidity, so would setting it on Medium be acceptable or would I not really gain anything in the long run ? An of course with this being Florida the humidity can be fierce , this unit is roughly 17 yrs old an we are hoping to upgrade this winter if it makes it , knock on wood it seems to be doing ok for what it is , Thanks .
Excellent video and method in case you don't for sure have the right circuit diagram. Question I'd pay $$ for: if you need extra flow in winter, is it OK to bridge the cool and heat taps/terminals, allowing (essentially) black (top speed) to be active in both seasons? (Usually blue, medium high, is used in winter to avoid blowing cold air.)
I've been trying to find the answer to that question, too! Did you ever figure it out? It seems like manufacturers don't want you to or they would have used double-spades everywhere.
AC Tech answered this question already in earlier comments. The answer was... YES. You can add a jumper wire so that cool and heat use the same fan speed. Any unused wires should be wire nut capped and electrical taped.
When setting dip switches for a goodman gmes800804b series. The manual shows only dip switches s1-3 but there's 4 dip switches. The instructions don't label about number 4...
It is probably marked “TOD” Time on delay, printed on the circuit board. “On” gives you a delay before the fan comes on so the plenum is close to operating temperature. “Off” will turn the blower on immediately.
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My furnace is about 7 years old, I moved into my house about 5 years ago. First year living in this house, we could feel good pressure of air-flow coming through the registers, but we are now in 5th year in this house, the air pressure or volume air coming through the registers is not so much. I replaced new furnace air-filter, checked the blower itself, the blower has hardly any dust clogged up, I checked condenser right above the blower is free of any dust or any clogged.
Yet the air pressure coming through the register seems to be half of air we used to felt like in the first years living in this house, maybe I need to replace blower motor? Any advise.
AC and heating works, but air pressure or volume of air is not so much.
Thank you for your video. had 2 HVAC guy's look at my blower and tell me I needed a new blower. When in fact it was just wrong wiring. I saved myself another call out. Thank you for making this video.
I discovered this when cleaning my flame sensor today. Figured out that my furnace was set to low cool and med low heat. No wonder heat never made it to the far parts of the house! Set it to med high cool and high heat. Works so so so much better now!
heat is suppose to be lower than cool because the faster the air blows the cooler it feels.
@@gbaby3180 That I suppose would be true depending on the size of unit. Mine I imagine is of quite a good rating because man it puts out hot air for sure.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this video. My furnace was throwing a low air flow error. The temperature limit switch was tripping it. After much research and consternation, I came across this video. They had configured heat with the lowest speed blower wire. The factory book recommends putting the highest speed wire on heat. I changed the configuration around and bam..... no more temp out issues.
Thank you for this i was able to slow the blower on cool and it made a big difference in how well my ac works!
Had all kinds of problems, finally fixxed it! Simple! Take the red wire out of ur blower motor 1 position then plug it into your #2 position! Over 10 15 20 yrs the contacts wear out or get blackened whear no contact results! Simple fix for me took several weeks for me to fix my central heat for free! Do move the wires around before u start taking apart the motor !
I love this channel I've just started my HVAC journey this is a great help
Happy to help! Make sure to check out acservicetech.com for more HVAC resources like articles and quizzes!!
Have you seen the new Goodman variable speed furnaces? The board is bluetooth controlled, no more dip switches. You control all your speed settings and start up through the CoolCloud goodman app through your phone. It's pretty slick. I like them. When u have a service call. I just link my phone to board b4 I step foot in customers house. And i already know what going on n what's wrong with the unit all b4 stepping foot in their house.
wow..that is cool...most stuff i service is apartments and three deckers with old stuff..i ran into a milivolt boiler from the 1970s few weeks back and it was still going strong just need a new powerpile..
Thanks for mentioning that Brennen-steve Higgins!
I got a new unit installed and it seemed very loud and too powerful. The techs said it's working normally and I would get used to the new "efficient" unit. Thanks to this video I now know they're either unknowledgeable about this or just didn't want to bother coming back. I'm still deciding if I want to give this a shot myself or call insist on a return visit, but either way THANK YOU for showing me it's possible to adjust CFM.
I would call another company, maybe ask around first, someone reputable.
I see this Video was put out a year ago so don't know if you still monitor it ,
My question is Our Residential Central heat & air is like 15 yrs old ( knock on wood she's still chugging along ) hoping to upgrade this Winter, Ive cleaned the outdoor Condenser Unit last week , flushed the outsides coils , removed the leaves & accumulated dirt sitting in the bottom of the pan , An today I went up in the attic an pulled the panels on The Air Handler Unit , I cleaned The Evaporator coils with some spray cleaner, took a soft nylon brush similar to a giant toothbrush to clean off the big chucks , an then dragged the Garden Hose up there an blasted it , at first the water would not flow thru it ,I pulled the Blower motor housing out an cleaned the blades on the squirrel cage fan . This like doubled the Air Flow coming out of the register vents . Also I popped the cover on the antique wall mounted thermostat that has that lil Mercury bulb in it took a small brush to everything an cleaned it to remove the dust & checked my wire connectors on the back . Right now the blower in the Air Handler is set in low I have a total of 3 pins, L M H , would it be feasible to run the Blower on Medium Speed ,
Could you do a step by step video on converting from an ECM to a PSC motor. A lot of techs could use this information. I don't do videos, but you do, and I think it would be very helpful for all techs. thanks
I agree, would be very helpful. But I also dont shoot videos. But would be beneficial.
nota newbie I understand your motive here (cost) but besides the huge liability and the completely different voltages used (speed taps), the ECM is a better motor in several ways. The ECM motor is up to 75% more efficient, it is soft start, runs cooler and the speeds, on/off delay are completely programable. Heck a new ECM X-13 motor even figures out on it own the correct rotational direction. The ECM is supposed to last longer (but I personally haven’t seen that). And ECM X-13 changeout is incredibly easy - just plug-n-play and difficult to screw up. In reality a control board is not needed as you could run wires straight from the thermostat to the speed taps on the motor. I’ve seen that Carrier has stopped using a control board in several units now. My advice is shop around as ECM X-13 motor prices vary greatly. They’re all made by the same company, Genteq and stamped with “The Dealer Toolbox.com”.
Ecm in theory are better motors, however we all know the Ductwork isn't designed for them, therefor psc motors are still superior.
nota newbie. If ur not a newbie, changing a ecm to psc is the easiest thing to do. RELAY
Nota Newbie, I would like to do one in the future along with an oem ecm to retrofit ecm replacement, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see! Thank you all as well for each of your input!
This is good for teaching a homeowners' buddy how to mess w his airflow. Otherwise an employed technician would already have been told the basics by another tech where to change speeds, and look at charts in the manual hopefully left on site if wanting to adjust dipswitches for whatever reason. Basically dont touch anything unless u have experience. Thanks for taking the time though n maybe there is a new employee for a small company that gets no help from other techs n learned something here so kudos for that.
I mentioned that I actually see the speeds incorrectly set on too many units out in the field. It may not be main service techs but maybe installers that are sent to start units up that may not be aware of it. I think it is just techs not taking the time to read the install manual to set the unit up properly but it results in a bad install even after all that hard work that was put into it, thanks!
Gotcha. I hear ya n very true. Side note, lot of service calls lately w people using portable humidifiers n clogging filters within a matter of weeks causes issues. Minerals in the water floating around causing dust. The calcium i assume. Using distilled water would be better for those.
Nice tip M B!
Thanks for all this educational videos and materials.
Efrain Marti, thanks and glad to help!
great idea thanks for sharing I'm watching this 2-3x impressive
Awesome, thank you!
Hello, I recently got a brand system in my home in FL. It is a straight cool system with a heater coil. The compressor was also replaced. My air handler is located in a closet in the hallway with the return grill facing the living room. The new unit cools great but it is way louder and it has way too much airflow compared with the old one. I can hear a lot of airflow noise coming in the return grill by the living room and it is pretty annoying. I can see the air filter trying to collapse from the increased airflow. The technicians checked the speed taps and they told me it is in the lowest setting and there is not much else that can be done. This was installed back in February. I have been trying to get used to the noise but it is too much. I am familiar with replacing these motors and most of the ECM modules. The current motor is a Genteq Endura Pro with the same ECM control module that I have replaced before on my old unit. This new module has a sticker on it that says: " This motor is programmed to: hi #5 (100%), med #4(91%) and low #1-3(81%). So in reality I only have 3-speed taps instead of 5. My old air handler motor the ECM module came with 5-speed taps and I adjust it accordingly. A new replacement Genteq ECM module for the new Endura Pro comes with 5-speed taps like the previous modules that I have replaced before from Genteq but it comes with 5-speed taps.
If I replace the ECM module of the new air handler with a newer ECM replacement module with 5-speed taps, Would that give me two additional slower speeds than the current module at 81%? Because I will be able to quiet down the unit some more. I understand the airflow would be less but I believe that the current ductwork which is 25 years old is not designed for that much airflow and they did not do an airflow test before or after. Most of these companies sell the units by sqft which is an important factor but I feel the ductwork has to also be the appropiate size. My ductwork is all made of fiberglass panels.
I appreciate your input on this. Amazing videos by the way. Very instructive and helpful. Thank you!
Great video, thank you.
What about when I turn only the fan on, which speed it will use?
Kudos to you. You always make great videos man. Can you explain why do need to set your blower speeds at different speeds when you have a 2 stage outdoor unit?
I have a question. We have a Frigidaire furnace made by Nordyne. It has a two stage burner and a variable speed blower. One day last fall/winter the blower would not come on. Checked the fault code which suggested overtemp in the burner which would be normal if the blower was not running. That fault shut down the burner which gave us the fault code. Tried to run the fan in manual. Could hear the relay click on the circuit board, so I assumed the problem was the blower and not the board. Took the blower out, got numbers off the blower motor and asked our guy if he could get a blower motor. A day later he said yes, but it would take 4 days and would cost me $1200.00. WOW! That was for the motor only that did not include the module on the end of the motor. What a mistake that would have been to get that motor as it was not the problem, but rather the motor module. I started watching TH-cam videos about variable speed blowers not working. Many like ours go out because of a thermistor on the motor module. After looking, our thermistor was cracked. The part numbers were not clear but I found some info about our part and a cross reference number. Got the part, installed it and all is well. The motor does seem to run perhaps a little slower. I notice that because I used to get a harmonic sound out of the registers that I do not get now. Does the thermistor sense temperature build up in the plenum box? Does the thermistor sense static pressure perhaps that builds up during the heat up after the burner comes on? I wonder about it's function because I wonder why the thermistor cracked. Seems this is a common problem. Maybe because the air filter which is April Air 2200 was perhaps dirty and was impeding the air flow which could effect the static pressure inside the blower box. Any suggestions would be appreciated. This has been a great furnace and was a replacement during a home addition project. We had a Manual D load calculation run to help us determine new duct sizes, return air sizes and even the size of the furnace and air compressor. I totally believe in properly sizing eveything in the system now. It has been beautiful and well balanced throughout the entire house.
I wonder if the ECM's are worth the failure rate? 1/3hp PCM 600 watts vs ECM 250watts saving 350 watts at 12 cents kwh x 6 hrs /day+ $92/yr is good savings. But for average homeowner that can get negated by replacing ECM too often vs a PCM that lasts 25 years. Also the less heat generated by ECM doesn't have to be removed from AC mode saving but not a factor in heating actual helping. Still need good static pressures in any case, very important!
Those ecm heads are SUPER expensive too. I've replaced some where just ecm control head was $500 my cost, that's not including the motor part either. So add more $$ for that.
Also ecm no longer have an external capacitor you can replace, they are in that ecm control head now. So if capacitor goes guess what...u gotta replace entire head. But ecm are the way of the future, they're gonna be on everything shortly for energy consumption. I was saying in another comment, on the newer Goodman var. Speed units. They have zero dipswitches now. The main board is bluetooth, u link ur phone and control all your speed and startup through an app with your phone. And when unit breaks down. No more board light codes. You connect to bluetooth and it will tell you EVERYTHING going on with that unit and even the parts u need to fix it. Pretty cool.
Brennen-steve Higgins. That may be true, but sometimes old school is better and last longer. PSC motors have been around for a very long time, test proven. No need for smart phones.
@@watermanone7567 I can agree, stuff today def isnt made like stuff from years ago. But im for anything that makes my job/trade easier and less tools and equipment for me to carry around. So a cell phone over meters, jumpers etc..I'm all for it lol.
Yeah depending on the customer and install, the cost savings may be negated by the breakdown and replacement. What I don't like is that the customer has a breakdown period, regardless of the cost. I don't want them to think it was something that may have been done wrong on the install job even after explaining how it can happen. Thanks for all of your input!
Is is possible to combine two functions into one tap (i.e. cool and heat both running in medium setting)?
AC Tech answered this question already in earlier comments. The answer was... YES. You can add a jumper wire so that cool and heat use the same fan speed. Any unused wires should be wire nut capped and electrical taped.
Well done, anothe great video thank you sir, keep it up the great work.
Do you have a video of setting up the cfms on a furnace and making sure there is proper airflow
I will be putting put more airflow videos in the future. I did one on the temp rise formula for electric strip heating on an air handler. You can use the same technique for a gas furnace except the formula is slightly different do to the gas combustion. Temp rise formula for gas furnace=(Input BTU/HR x Combustion Efficiency) / (1.08 x Delta T)
@@acservicetechchannel Thanks
Life changing. Thank you so much!
Very good explain, you are good teacher ! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
When I start my ac on my carrier furnace I get a rattling son
Would like to see a book and quick cards format in heating. I like your teaching style.
I would like to put something like that out in the future. Thanks for letting me know!
Thanks so much for this video. I'm looking for a second opinion if possible. I had a HVAC pro replace some parts on my furnace, including the board and the fan, and now when the furnace kicks on I hear the fan for about 60 seconds, then it pauses, and continues. The tech told me that is normal, something to do with it being a single-speed fan but the board is trying to switch, so there is that pause. It's kind of annoying and I'm wondering if it can be fixed by adjusting some settings on the new board.
Thank you so much for your time , effort and educational videos would you please tell what is that Dip switch by it self for on the last variable speed control board thanks
There were four blocks of dip switches, most having to due with airflow but some that have to due with heat speeds, thanks!
Thanks
Very good explanation! Thanks!
Thanks a lot Greg!
This is purely my problem - there is very loud noise when the furnace is running. The technician said I need to reduce the motor speed. I have three wires: black for cool, blue for heat, and red as a spare, M1. The technician said to connect the red wire to heat, the blue wire to cool, and remove the black wire completely (to the M1 slot). But now I watched Your video and I'm not sure if I should do that. Could I damage my furnace by doing this?
Hello, I love your videos, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with everyone like you do! You never explained how to change the speed on the PSE blower. You showed that the AC is in the higher speed connector which was black and stood for cold, the blue was in the slower connector. However, you never showed us how to change the speed if I wanted to. My carrier 58MCB080-12120 HVAC keeps giving me error 21 Gas Heating lockout. I have replaced most parts but it still keeps tripping after working for a good day or two. I’m thinking the heat switch is thinking it’s overheating and keeps causing the crash. I also can tell that the blower speed is very low which could be causing the overheating. How do I increase the speed of my blower? As you described in your first blower model it does have a capacitor with a solid brown and brown with a white stripe. Thank you in advance!
Our heater produces a very hot and heavy heating airflow. Can it be adjusted?
ACSERVICETECH, Can you make a lesson about measuring CFM and Air Flow measurements because most AC conditioning techs will measure the temperature but don't know how to measure the CFM and Air Flow. What happens is that the temperature of the AC vents compared to the temperature of the room will have a Delta temperature but the CFM and Air flow will not be set correctly so your electrical bill will be very high at the end of the month because it takes longer to cool down the room or multiple rooms in the house or apt because of the CFM and Air Flow not being set correctly.
Any opinions on adding an inline fan to help move air on a system that is already at max fan speed ?
Just after 6:32 you mentioned that if you lower the blower cfm you can take more humidity out of the building. Can you explain that in a little more detail?
spelunkerd: If the unit runs longer to reach temp. setting is lowers the humidity more. If it short cycles it never gets a chance to ring the humidity out of the air.
Running at a lower speed, allows the evap coil to get colder extracting more moisture via condensation and the condensate to begin to run off instead of cling to the fins. In moderate temps, the AC may not run long enough to get the condensate flowing and thus the airflow after the compressor shuts off will just evaporate the moisture back into the indoor air.
One profile I saw for a variable speed blower motor was to run the blower at 75% for the first 10 minutes of the cooling cycle when selected for de-humidification in the blower set up. Other units are controlled by a dehum signal from the thermostat or humistat.
I think you said if you speed up the blower to high you don’t get chance to take more humidity cause the temp is gonna reach the set temperature on stat before taking off enough humidity and if you lower it it can take more humidity because is going to run more before reaching set temperature point on stat correct me please thanks
Spelunkerd, the lower temp on the coil mixed with an increase in run time, and the humidity in the air moving slower across the coil increases humidity removal, thanks Waterman one, JK Brown, Karim, and Timothy! Great input!
Slower blower speed drops air temp further removing more moisture.
Another good video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent video.
Thanks Waterman one!
On your first example with a PCS it had 1 speed for heat and 1 for cool, but what if you wanted say medium for both? I'm sure you can but I wondered how with wiring, it must take place on board. Thx
You simply look at the wiring schematics on the replacement/rescue motor to see what speed taps are what wires and just put those to your heat and cool terminals on board.almost all motors are high, med high, med low and low. Hope this helps
You can add a jumper from the cool tap to the heat tap and then connect the blower speed to the heat or the cool if you have an additional spade on your jumper wire. Then take the leftover wire that does not have a park terminal on the board to connect to and cut the end off, wire nut and zip tie in place, thanks!
Good job for training
Thanks a lot Omar!
this may be a dumb question but how do you know to set the CFM to the TONS of the system how do you know like what color and or dip switches push x amount of air. if that makes sense
my instructor just said remember the basics....trying to push heat up you dont need to fan on super high..heat rises....trying to push cool air up ..you want the higher speed ..cool air falls... and of course the opposite for rooftop units..
For heat, you don't want too high of a fan speed or the occupant will feel cold due to the extra air movement that will cause the humidity on their skin to evaporate which cools people down. This is the opposite of what you want during winter. That is why hot water baseboard feels so comfortable. Air is only moving through convection and the people do not feel so dry.
@@acservicetechchannel good points
so what speed should the cold ac speed be at the blower i have a 3 speed
i heard people say its better at low speed
Is there any way to decrease the fan speed to a lower setting without getting a furnace to overheat? Like tuning the gas valve to let in less gas or changing orifice size?
2 stage furnace does low and high flame output
Thanks for this information.
Thanks Garcia!
Nice one man
Thanks a lot Automation Academy TV!
I need more air flow (new construction) is there a bigger motor I can install?
Hey Craig, I know youre a busy guy, but do you think you could make a video on how newer eev, defrost and afm boards communicate with the main control boards with DC voltage in Tams?
That would really depend on each manufacturer so it won't be something that translates across the board but I know what you mean. Thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
I just did a genteq motor to replace the Ge 3.0.
Nice, thanks HVAC 1!
Which one is more quiet Trane XV19 5 ton or Carrier Green Speed Infinity 26VS 5 ton?
Hi
My new split air conditioner indoor fan speef is slow even at the highest speed setting
Is there a modification I can make to increase the fan speed above factory setting?
What if you have only 1 wire for your blower motor and slot 1 is low 2 is med. and 3 is high and the schematic is showing that the goes to #2 med..
my question is, can I swap the power to (3 high) without causing damage to its relation to the Cooling. So how do you know when and when it’s not ok to do that. I would prefer it on 3.
Heater is the white wire which on the diagram is supposed to go into #4 med high.
I have a 3 ton AC unit and a 80% single stage gas furnace that has a BTU input of 80,000 and output of 64,000 and furnace says it’s 1600cfm with a 9 speed ECM motor. What should the heat speed be and then the cool speed be set on? This is just what’s in my house and has been heating and cooling great with no problems at all. Cool speed is currently on high which I assume is the 1600cfm but should it be on med or med/high for 1200cfm? I realize that it appears to be sized wrong for this 2500 sq ft 2 story newer house but it’s been trouble free for whatever reason. I’m in Portland Oregon.
can i connect my nest to the 250 volt capacitor directly?
I lost my commit ??
Here's my Question I live in Florida, my unit is a 3 ton 5k, residential heat and air. I clean the outside condenser last week removed all the leaves and trash from the bottom of it flush the coils with water. Today I pull the panels on the evaporator that's up in the attic it was nasty, and used some coil cleaner and a soft nylon brush and finally I just drag the garden hose up there and slowly blasted it, at first the water would not flow from one side to the other in the beginning, I remove the blower Motor housing and cleaned the blades on the squirrel cage fan, Also we have a Antique wall mounted thermostat I I popped a cover and lightly dusted and cleaned it up , this doubled the output of air coming through the vent registers in the house , my blower motor has three tabs , L M H . Right now the blower motor is set on low. Could I set the blower motor on Medium Speed ? , I understand with it being set on low that increases the runtime so it removes more humidity, so would setting it on Medium be acceptable or would I not really gain anything in the long run ? An of course with this being Florida the humidity can be fierce , this unit is roughly 17 yrs old an we are hoping to upgrade this winter if it makes it , knock on wood it seems to be doing ok for what it is ,
Thanks .
Excellent video and method in case you don't for sure have the right circuit diagram. Question I'd pay $$ for: if you need extra flow in winter, is it OK to bridge the cool and heat taps/terminals, allowing (essentially) black (top speed) to be active in both seasons? (Usually blue, medium high, is used in winter to avoid blowing cold air.)
I've been trying to find the answer to that question, too! Did you ever figure it out? It seems like manufacturers don't want you to or they would have used double-spades everywhere.
@@JR-mc3kv No. I don't own my furnace, so I wasn't able to risk blowing the circuit, so I didn't try it.
AC Tech answered this question already in earlier comments. The answer was... YES. You can add a jumper wire so that cool and heat use the same fan speed. Any unused wires should be wire nut capped and electrical taped.
When setting dip switches for a goodman gmes800804b series. The manual shows only dip switches s1-3 but there's 4 dip switches. The instructions don't label about number 4...
It is probably marked “TOD” Time on delay, printed on the circuit board. “On” gives you a delay before the fan comes on so the plenum is close to operating temperature. “Off” will turn the blower on immediately.
How do you know what speed your unit capacity is?
Thank you!
Why does my blower put out much more air in heat mode than it does when it’s on cool mode?
For dehumidification.
Thank You !
Welcome!
Thank You
Welcome!
Awesomeness...
Thanks a lot Ruben!
Another guy that like to hear himself talk
No matter witch wire i plug in its low and then freezs up i dont want to call someone out
You might have a collapsed air duct.
X13 motors are trash.
To much!! bla bla bla and nothing imf.