Really nice frame and color...old di2 system is terrible setting it up lol....best way to route cables in handle bars is with the park tool cable routing kit expensive but worth it!
I can finally say I'm building my first ever custom bike. Bought also the new Allez Sprint frameset, but I'm going the budget route with mechanical 105 R7000 paired with a nice pair of Zipp 303 S.
Good luck! I recently finished mine, also based on mechanical ultegra/105. I didn’t want to be as everyone else and use wireless sram axs. But mechanical internal routing in this frame is real pain in the ass. Not only because it’s difficult to route (actually not too much of a problem) but mainly because of poor design from specialized. The noodle for the front derailleur is a joke, lots sharp edges around head tube due to not so smart welding, sharp edges at the rear derailleur exit hole, continuous housing to the rear derailleur is moving while steering, etc. And if you decide to get an internally routed handlebar, the quest becomes almost impossible :). Finally after some modifications I was able too finish it. But it rides awesome despite being heavy af. Again, I think this frame is designed for electronic (preferably wireless) shifting but mechanical way is still possible and in my opinion it’s much more enjoyable to ride than soulless electronic shifting.
@@IvanMalechko Wow that's a good insight. For me the Rival eTap AXS is just too expensive and I get the parts almost at wholesale price. Apart from the fact that the complete group is too heavy for my liking with 3.3 kg (800 g more than 105 R7000 and 300 g more than 105 R7150). I like to do things on the bike myself, but I've heard so often in the last few days that the cable routing is a disaster, I think I'll have a professional do it. I am currently collecting all the parts I need and will assemble the bike in 5-6 months. I'm happy that the old 105 was finally back in our shop. Most of my colleagues are a bit surprised by my frame decision, because I don't look sporty... But that's also because I had to take 9 months off, I just overtrained myself in 2021. I also notice that I've lost a lot of flexibility, so I'm using the next six months to get fit again so that I don't end up with 4 - 5 cm spacers under the stem.
@@Sir-Prizse 100% with you on 105 choice. I initially planned to build it based on 105 as well but ended up with Ultegra 8020 shifters and derailleurs only because I found this group-set for a bargain price. Than I sold Ultegra crankset without chainrings and got complete 52/39 105 crankset with profit while keeping brand new ultegra chainrings as spare parts. I personally know 2 guys who had cracked ultegra cranks (delaminated as shimano call it) but 105 cranks don’t have this issue as they built from solid aluminum being just slightly heavier. I have another 105 bike and can compare them side by side. There is no difference in shifting performance (maybe ultegra is just marginally crispier which can be attributed to fancy dura ace housings and cables). And to be honest I prefer 105 brake levers as they feel smoother and more linear in action. The free-stroke adjustment in ultegra is just another gimmick no one really needs. Your zipp wheels make much more difference than any groupset anyway. Regarding the “aggressive geometry”, there is also nothing to worry about. I’m not the most flexible person but was able to finish my fastest ever imperial century with zero issues riding this bike only second time after it was put together (before that I was mainly riding a gravel bike with much more “relaxed” geometry). So yeah, have fun :)
I built a 2018 Allez sprint with full internally routed di2 on a frame that wasn't made for it. Had to cut and solder one wire that went through a welding gas hole in the chainstay to the BB, where the junction box was. Then we drilled a hole through the bottle cage bolt and cut and soldered that wire for the front derailleur. Worked out perfectly in the end.
The last iterations of the first-generation Allez Sprint have holes drilled for electronic groupsets, not sure why they didn't do that the moment it went 2x.
Love your video! I'm in the middle of building my 2022 Allez Sprint. I am going with the SRAM Rival AXS eTap. However, just routing the single rear hydraulic line was a royal pain. I routed the line over the bottom-bracket shell and found it really tight. Once I got the line to the head tube, I hope brake lines don't damage/stretch from a hard pull because I had to pull really hard to take up the slack. Of all the brake lines I thought would be easy would be the front. I thought I had it pulled all the way through the headset cap. I went to turn the fork and felt some binding. So, I remove the cap and compression ring only to find the front line kinked. So, I have to replace that one. Darn it!
Good choice, I kind of wish I'd chosen Sram now as I'm dreading doing any servicing with the di2 cables. Luckily once the brake lines are in you should be alright for a good while! Enjoy
Great build! I upgraded to carbon integrated bars on my Allez and it was a pain in the a$$! Still running mechanical group set. Now I would like to add the 3D printed stem cap and Tarmac stem. Gonna be a nightmare, but looks so much cleaner. Thanks for the video
A really good idea for a video, I'd love to build a bike from scratch. Maybe you could show us a step by step guide and cost of frame, parts etc. Really interesting.
Lacing cables through handlebars: 1. use old or new cables, thread the bare cables into the handlebar, but leave the shifter end that sticking out 2. from the other end, thread cable HOUSING into the cables, till they pop out through handlebars . . . that's it 3. if you did use OLD inner cables, leave housing in position, and thread NEW cables into housing . . . that's it, again
I've built my own alloy scandium alloy frame with outer cables and rim brakes - a piece 👌 of cake. The bike industry is generally heading in the wrong direction with batteries for shifting, chemicals for tires and hydraulic brakes, and, as a result, high purchasing and maintenance costs. It's great for dealers but bad for consumers.
very interesting to see a Shigura SetUp on a Roadbike. I know that this works really nice on Jumpbikes or Mtb's .. but NEVER saw them anywhere near a Roadbike 🤔, VERY cool ‼️😏 How are they compared to the stock Shimano ones ? maybe a little lighter too ? But ( I think) one of the main bonus Points is that you can use thicker Rotors ( if you want) . Because the magura Rotors are a little bit thicker than Shimano or SRAM ;)
Interested in the Magura calipers? Why not Shimano? Any performance difference over Shimano? A good trick for threading cable through bars is to use a metal cable ferrule a use a gear inner through it. The cable ferrule will fit perfectly over a hydraulic hose or gear outer and the gear inner will thread through the bars a lot easier! Great vid! Builds don't always go smoothly like those Dreambike vids some involve a bit of swearing! 😂😂
Question, how on earth did you install the rear di2 grommet (rubber thingy to get the cable in place). I really can’t get that stupid rubber thing inside the frame 🤬
This bike was really easy to assemble th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Really nice frame and color...old di2 system is terrible setting it up lol....best way to route cables in handle bars is with the park tool cable routing kit expensive but worth it!
I can finally say I'm building my first ever custom bike. Bought also the new Allez Sprint frameset, but I'm going the budget route with mechanical 105 R7000 paired with a nice pair of Zipp 303 S.
Good luck! I recently finished mine, also based on mechanical ultegra/105. I didn’t want to be as everyone else and use wireless sram axs. But mechanical internal routing in this frame is real pain in the ass. Not only because it’s difficult to route (actually not too much of a problem) but mainly because of poor design from specialized. The noodle for the front derailleur is a joke, lots sharp edges around head tube due to not so smart welding, sharp edges at the rear derailleur exit hole, continuous housing to the rear derailleur is moving while steering, etc. And if you decide to get an internally routed handlebar, the quest becomes almost impossible :). Finally after some modifications I was able too finish it. But it rides awesome despite being heavy af. Again, I think this frame is designed for electronic (preferably wireless) shifting but mechanical way is still possible and in my opinion it’s much more enjoyable to ride than soulless electronic shifting.
@@IvanMalechko Wow that's a good insight. For me the Rival eTap AXS is just too expensive and I get the parts almost at wholesale price. Apart from the fact that the complete group is too heavy for my liking with 3.3 kg (800 g more than 105 R7000 and 300 g more than 105 R7150).
I like to do things on the bike myself, but I've heard so often in the last few days that the cable routing is a disaster, I think I'll have a professional do it.
I am currently collecting all the parts I need and will assemble the bike in 5-6 months. I'm happy that the old 105 was finally back in our shop.
Most of my colleagues are a bit surprised by my frame decision, because I don't look sporty... But that's also because I had to take 9 months off, I just overtrained myself in 2021. I also notice that I've lost a lot of flexibility, so I'm using the next six months to get fit again so that I don't end up with 4 - 5 cm spacers under the stem.
@@Sir-Prizse 100% with you on 105 choice. I initially planned to build it based on 105 as well but ended up with Ultegra 8020 shifters and derailleurs only because I found this group-set for a bargain price. Than I sold Ultegra crankset without chainrings and got complete 52/39 105 crankset with profit while keeping brand new ultegra chainrings as spare parts. I personally know 2 guys who had cracked ultegra cranks (delaminated as shimano call it) but 105 cranks don’t have this issue as they built from solid aluminum being just slightly heavier.
I have another 105 bike and can compare them side by side. There is no difference in shifting performance (maybe ultegra is just marginally crispier which can be attributed to fancy dura ace housings and cables). And to be honest I prefer 105 brake levers as they feel smoother and more linear in action. The free-stroke adjustment in ultegra is just another gimmick no one really needs. Your zipp wheels make much more difference than any groupset anyway. Regarding the “aggressive geometry”, there is also nothing to worry about. I’m not the most flexible person but was able to finish my fastest ever imperial century with zero issues riding this bike only second time after it was put together (before that I was mainly riding a gravel bike with much more “relaxed” geometry).
So yeah, have fun :)
@@IvanMalechkoWhat exactly does it mean for shifting to have “soul”?
Same hereee just purchased everything i needed for the build and cant wait!
I built a 2018 Allez sprint with full internally routed di2 on a frame that wasn't made for it. Had to cut and solder one wire that went through a welding gas hole in the chainstay to the BB, where the junction box was. Then we drilled a hole through the bottle cage bolt and cut and soldered that wire for the front derailleur. Worked out perfectly in the end.
The last iterations of the first-generation Allez Sprint have holes drilled for electronic groupsets, not sure why they didn't do that the moment it went 2x.
Great vid. Thinking about building an Allez Sprint with 105 di2. Look forward to seeing another vid on this machine 👍🏻
Love your video! I'm in the middle of building my 2022 Allez Sprint. I am going with the SRAM Rival AXS eTap. However, just routing the single rear hydraulic line was a royal pain. I routed the line over the bottom-bracket shell and found it really tight. Once I got the line to the head tube, I hope brake lines don't damage/stretch from a hard pull because I had to pull really hard to take up the slack. Of all the brake lines I thought would be easy would be the front. I thought I had it pulled all the way through the headset cap. I went to turn the fork and felt some binding. So, I remove the cap and compression ring only to find the front line kinked. So, I have to replace that one. Darn it!
Good choice, I kind of wish I'd chosen Sram now as I'm dreading doing any servicing with the di2 cables. Luckily once the brake lines are in you should be alright for a good while! Enjoy
Great build! I upgraded to carbon integrated bars on my Allez and it was a pain in the a$$! Still running mechanical group set. Now I would like to add the 3D printed stem cap and Tarmac stem. Gonna be a nightmare, but looks so much cleaner. Thanks for the video
Cheers! Check out "Raceware" for a similar stem cap, here's a closer look at the final build :) th-cam.com/video/GJNUag3D6Zw/w-d-xo.html
A really good idea for a video, I'd love to build a bike from scratch. Maybe you could show us a step by step guide and cost of frame, parts etc. Really interesting.
Would love to see an update to this video.
Lacing cables through handlebars:
1. use old or new cables, thread the bare cables into the handlebar, but leave the shifter end that sticking out
2. from the other end, thread cable HOUSING into the cables, till they pop out through handlebars . . . that's it
3. if you did use OLD inner cables, leave housing in position, and thread NEW cables into housing . . . that's it, again
what are the part numbers for the SL7 stem cap and cable/hose guide? I want to do a similar build. Thank You!
I've built my own alloy scandium alloy frame with outer cables and rim brakes - a piece 👌 of cake.
The bike industry is generally heading in the wrong direction with batteries for shifting, chemicals for tires and hydraulic brakes, and, as a result, high purchasing and maintenance costs. It's great for dealers but bad for consumers.
Zipp 454, baller, I wish I had those wheels.
very interesting to see a Shigura SetUp on a Roadbike.
I know that this works really nice on Jumpbikes or Mtb's .. but NEVER saw them anywhere near a Roadbike 🤔,
VERY cool ‼️😏
How are they compared to the stock Shimano ones ?
maybe a little lighter too ?
But ( I think) one of the main bonus Points is that you can use thicker Rotors ( if you want) . Because the magura Rotors are a little bit thicker than Shimano or SRAM ;)
Interested in the Magura calipers?
Why not Shimano?
Any performance difference over Shimano?
A good trick for threading cable through bars is to use a metal cable ferrule a use a gear inner through it.
The cable ferrule will fit perfectly over a hydraulic hose or gear outer and the gear inner will thread through the bars a lot easier!
Great vid!
Builds don't always go smoothly like those Dreambike vids some involve a bit of swearing! 😂😂
Question, how on earth did you install the rear di2 grommet (rubber thingy to get the cable in place). I really can’t get that stupid rubber thing inside the frame 🤬
Seatpost 380mm?
Magura beakes rule!
This bike was really easy to assemble th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
what 3d converter did you get?
Hi, I made my own but I see that Raceware are now making them
What is the weight?
7.85kg with pedals, mounts, bottle cages etc. Tyres and saddle would be the easy places to save some (and bars if going carbon)
Jamie: "winter bike"
Caribbean, African, and Australian cyclists: 🤔🤔🤔
excellent video, the welding of the bicycle is ugly
Too bad the welds look like shit on that frame.
Why does my Aliexpress frame have nicer welds than this?
The frame in this video is an aluminium/alloy , it’s the fastest alloy fame in the world
@@kaszym4qimSo, the shitty looking welds make the bike the fastest bike in the world. Got it.
@@kaszym4qim says who specialised? I bet the caad13 would be very similar from a performance standpoint and has much better welds
@@tomrachellesfirstdance7843 good for you, who cares. buy the caad13 complete bike for 3k and strip it and build it custom.. great idea....
This new Allez sprint is such a disappointment
Why
Welded by a 5 year old 😂😂
Hambini will kick your ash
A triumph of style over substance. Not a great ad for a bike site that should have at least SOME pretensions to being knowledgable and competent.
Waste of money
My 2012 Decathlon Bt'win Triban 3 (RRP £300) has better welds than this Specialized 🤔