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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ค. 2017
- How to replace brake pads and rotors on a Mercedes Benz C-Class 2001-2007
W203 and many other Mercedes Benz are similar
We will replace front and rear pads and rotors with OEM Mercedes Parts. My car has the sport package which requires different parts, so be sure to use your VIN when ordering parts so they are correct. My c230 has just 1 wear sensor, located front right side.
Front :25
Rear 2:45
Parts ----
$445 pads/rotors/wear sensor (all MB official oem parts)
Tools----
18MM hex socket
16MM hex socket
T30 torx bit
Pin punch (1/8" or up to 5MM)
Bungee cord or rope
Hammer
Flat head screwdriver
Time---
About 1 hour per axle
Difficulty ----
Medium - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I am shocked at how easy this looks, and disappointed that I've been taking my C280 to the dealer for this.
Great video! I was able to follow your steps exactly and save $600+. Can't thank you enough for doing this for the rest of us who has 10+ year old cars and don't want to let Mercedes stealership take our hard earned money and rip us off. However, your video shows the happy path and I want to share my experience with the not so happy obstacles I ran in to while doing this. I hope it will help some one out there.
1. I could not get the rotor holding screw on the passenger side out and I stripped the threads in the process. I tried several methods, hit the rotor with a hammer to break the rust free, sprayed WD40 on it, tried hitting the holding screw with a impact wrench, tried drilling a hole and then using a screw extractor kit (ez out) and none of those worked. Needless to say, I was extremely frustrated!! What worked? I bought a 1/4-inch titanium drill bit from Home Depot and drilled it out. The screw head will break off easily. Just make sure you drill straight in to the middle of the screw and lubricate with WD40 every 30 seconds or so. Once it breaks off, the rotor will come out leaving the rest of the screw in the wheel hub. Don't worry, you don't need to take it out or replace it. That thing is useless and the only reason it's there is to help production line in the factory during assembly. To prevent it from falling off since the wheel is not on to keep it in place with the lug nuts.
2. When I was trying to push the new brake pads in, they wouldn't fit. First, I thought I got the wrong type of pads. Then I remembered him saying that you may have to push the pistons on the caliper in. I didn't know what that meant so I searched and found a video on TH-cam. Basically, you use a C-clamp to push it in flush. But as I was pushing one side I noticed the other side was coming out. They are connected and cannot be independently pushed in. So, when you have room for the pad to slide in on one side the other side will be too narrow. What worked? This was a bit tricky and I needed my wife's help. Once I pushed the piston on the inside (right hand side when facing forward) in, I bolted on the caliper and pushed the inside brake pad in. And then I unscrewed the two bolts that hold the caliper but instead of taking it out entirely and hanging it, I just pulled it out a bit (horizontally). Make sure the brake pad on the inside is still wedged between the brake rotor and the inside piston. And while my wife was holding on to the caliper and supporting it, I clamped the outside piston in. The reason you have to pull it a bit is because you need room for the C-Clamp to go in grab the surface on the piston. And this time the inside piston won't be able to come out as you push the outside in because of the brake pad being wedged between it and the rotor.
Things didn't go smoothly for me but in the end once I finished the job I felt relieved and proud of myself. I am by no means a mechanic or work on cars on a regular basis. I am a change oil and change spark plugs sort of DIY guy, so this was a big accomplishment for me. Thanks again.
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Just as important are success stories, are troubles. When you’re working on something it’s good to know what troubles others have had in case you run into those problems. Thank you for your insight!
Great video, and thank you. My w203 just needed a routine brake lube and your video was very helpful. By the way, I love the red on your car!
Mars red I believe, beautiful indeed
Well done man! Good video quality, editing, vocals and tempo
I will be replacing my brakes later this week. Thanks for the user friendly video.
How’s it go ? Let me know I want to do this this week ?
Great video. It's really easy as You show how to do this.
Overall great video! Saved me a hell of alot of time and reassuring that I can change my wife's brakes.
You did a great job. I saw your license. GO BUCKS!!!
Great info. I really appreciate your very clear instructions.
Awesome video and tutorial, wow, now I can save lots of money doing this myself.
Very enjoyable and informative video.
All the best
from Old Kilpatrick, near Glasgow.
You just saved me $250! I could probably this with my eyes closed!!
Not if them rotors are fused to the hub. After much PB Blaster, many hammer blows I did save $250 but would have injured myself swinging that 4 lb hammer :)
Awesome video. Perfect for the DIY'er.
Great video, man. It really helped me out.
Super informative video! Thanks!
very good and clear video good help in doing the job,
Fancy look but simple is like that. Love my w203 :)
Good video. Thanks Doug 👍🏻
Nice sharing my.. watching from Malaysia
Lovely job and car
Mercedes for ever (French guy) 👍
Great video.
Perfect video! Thanks
This is a very good video.
Great vid buddy. Thanks.
Great video. thanks
Great video!!
Very much helped thank you !!
LOVE MY W203
Good video help me a lot
This car has sport package code 949. Nice looking car.
I had mine replaced a few years ago by my local mechanic due to vibration coming through the steering wheel. After a month I took them back with the same problem and they machined (4 week old brake rotors!!) them. Same problem. He then replaced them, same problem. I then gave up on him, and bought a set of Rotors & Pads, watched TH-cam and did them myself.
Turns out, he'd forgotton to screw the holding/grub screw back into the drivers side rotor, which, although help on by the wheel, almost fell off when I took off the Calipers. I'm sure this was the problem in the first place.
Mind you, I have a great looking set of R-Type Slotted Rotors on now and the Car brakes like the boss and while I did it, I bought a High Heat resistant spray can and painted the Calipers Red.
Anyone willing to have a go should it is an easy and fulfilling DIY job...as is doing an Oil change, Plugs and Air Filter.
yesterdar had a thight rear bake and made wheel hot,i took it apart today morning,well it is not that easy as it looks,when its worn and rusty,stuck it doesnt move so easy but yea,that pin thing surprised me also,if you mentain it well to have a clean and lubed brake,than at brake pad change you can only pinpunch and change pads easy clean way,Mercedes tech,totaly in love with this w203,mine is dark blue but damn this red make me cry such a head turner icon,ahould be kept in garage covered with silk blanket🤩
I have a 2005 i like this video im learning 😊
You guys need to start telling/showing people the replacement part details/numbers other than that, great video
Wow! That was am awesome video! Thanks
Most brake rotors ship with a petroleum based coating on them to keep them from rusting. It is a good idea to use Brake Kleen to remove this coating prior to installation. Otherwise, you will contaminate your new brake pads and they may become glazed.
If you go with the OEM Mercedes brake rotors, apparently you should skip this cleaning step because the zinc oxide coating is designed to protect from corrosion while in use as well as storage. (I just saw this on the linked Mercedes Benz video). th-cam.com/video/PnsmHD5WztE/w-d-xo.html
Great advice. I see a lot people skipping this step. Information for people that don't know: Why clean? It removes the oily residue (not the great coating) off the rotors. You do not want the oily base to stay on the rotors will cause issues with trying to brake.
Further advice -- Remove the rust off the hubs before putting on the new rotors -- where rust was put a light coat of anti-seize on the hub -- DO NOT PUT ANTI-SEIZE ON THE WHEEL LUGS OR WHERE THEY SCREW INTO THE HUB. Add some anti-seize to the brake housing/carrier bolts. Not to much, just a small swipe.
I use Permatex Anti-Seize in the bottle because it comes with a brush.
I had a nightmare removing the pins as it was the first time since owning the vehicle, I was also in Scotland the first time then in France for the rears in a campsite! I found in order to loosen the pins if you get some mole grips on them where the spring is and get them to twist them in the hole first to break the rust, then use the pin punch that worked for me. Beware of mushrooming the point of the pin as the caliper is aluminium and can easily be broken. I found a pin punch with a dished recess in it designed to hold the head of the nail kept the point of the pin centred otherwise you can slip off the pin and into the caliper!!
There were several different types of pads and pins at my local supplier so I had to get them all ordered to be sure, if you do get a pin and a pad out take a photo and measure eveything to get the dimensions to the supplier. Oh and if you are in Biarritz when your pads wear through the french for brake pads is 'plaquettes de frein'!!!!!
Thanks a lot for sharing...
Excellent video! I am no longer intimidated by the prospect of changing my own front brakes. The only suggestions I would add would be to use brake cleaner to clean the caliper and surrounding area before putting it back together. Also, it would probably be a good idea to add information on properly breaking in the pads and rotors in after installation. Thanks again.
Those rotors that you saw are the original,they painted with a special coating to help them from not getting rusted. Plus having brake dust starting to build up,if you ever get those rotors avoid using brake cleaner and maintain your gloves or hands clean
Hey buddy, nice channel. Pleas male more w203 videos😀
Excellent video tutorial! My girlfriend that doesnt like watching car videos was entertained! Thank you so much mugs132
Nice tutorial, saved me $880 on my 2005 C55 AMG, I bought my own rotors and pads and dealership still wants to charge $440 to change front and $440 for back............
I just got an estimate yesterday of $1,400.00. Ouch!
How has your C55 been treating you?
thanks for info
This was a good video but I would add the following. Clean your rotors with brake cleaner before installation because they usually have some kind of anti-corrosion seal on them. This will make the initial pad break in process go much faster (those first few miles when you need to take it easy with a couple light breaking cycles until the rotor and pads rough up a little and achieve their best friction). Some people even scuff the rotor up a little bit with some emery cloth.
Add a little bit of copper thread lube to the inside of the rotor face to keep it from corroding to the hub. It'll make taking it off next time a lot easier.
Also bleed your brakes. If you're going to go through all the effort of having the wheels off it's a good time to get that old brake fluid out of the system.
Amazing thank you
This is helpful
Really helpful video, may I ask where did u buy those pads and rotors?
Great video ! Great work ! Where did you get your parts, buddy ? I am planning to do a complete brake job on the 14 C250 soon !
thanks big help
Great Video Mugs132. I really need to replace the rear rotors & pads on my 2002 Mercedes C320 and I was wondering if their are any sensors that will need to be replaced as well? I think you illustrated where you changed just one on the front of your vehicle. I don't feel like spending the $375 I'm being told by a shop to have them replaced. Plus my late father had his own shop decades ago and I use to work with him so I shouldn't have any problems doing this myself. lol
@mugs132 Great video. Are the rotors you used Centric? If yes How did they hold up?
Nice Video.. BUT. When removing the rear rotors , there is procedure the retract the parking brake. There is a small hole through the rotor , where you stick a small screwdriver. I cant find the written steps but just knocking off the rear rotors can damage the parking brakes. Also cleaning the hubs with sandpaper is a good practice to eliminate rotor runout.
Thankyou
Hey Doug, what brand are those jack stands I would love a set.
I love you.
nice video! are these the 330mm 12.9 inch C230 Sport brakes?
I noticed you didn't use any break grease, is this somehow not required on a Mercedes??
I work at a parts store and my manager mentioned these pins. I drive an 02 Civic and I have bolts I have to remove, so the pins sounded extremely foreign to me; over engineered I thought. It seemed like it was very complicated to do the pad change, but it didn't look that bad.
It's not so much over engineering just engineering for a different application. You generally see cars use pins on vehicles that are made in Europe or based on cars made in Europe like Chrysler products. The pins reduce pad float which reduces vibration at very high speed braking. You would almost never notice here in the US because most speed limits are only around 70 or so. But when you get on the brakes going over 100+ that little bit of float can turn into some pretty serious vibration. Not really something you want on the Autobahn.
What MB reference have those calipers? Mine has an smaller one
Tried to change pads on a w203 C320 today, cars not moved for 6 months. Tapped the pins to push them out and they never moved. Started to hit them a bit harder but still nothing !! So came away and checked ur vid again !!
Any ideals, ?? Just hit it harder ??
It's best to take this opportunity to clean up the break calipers. Did you not put the antiseize greese or brush the rust out?
Hello i have The same benz could u please tell me if there is 2 sensor pads infront or only 1 it could be right or legt!??? cuz mine i have only one sensor right side ! Thx
Where did you read to torque the caliper bolts to 80 ft pounds?
You said "...all 2001 thru 2007 C class models". Does that include the Sport, or AMG, model? Thanks...
When ordering online are all sport models same! ? Very tricky ordering brake parts online. says sport ; except amg ? My exhaust tips say amg lol...
So what brake pads to use? I have 6 spd sport model
I have a 2005 Mercedes Benz c230K sport Package, I just want to know which brake pads do I need there so many different once but I want the right one, please if you could send me the link and the number of the brake pads that you got so I can match it with, please let me know
Thank You
So every time we change brakes pads front and rear with this cars we need to replace the rotors?
Are those jackpads Shwaben? Do they already come fitting with that adapter?
Close. They are Torin Big Red, with a customer aluminum block bolted on so they fit perfectly. Not sure if there's other options in the market, but I found these online from a guy out of Pennsylvania who did the modification. Love them.
I legit think Mercedes have the easiest brakes to change out ur self
The older versions, cause the new ones are pain in the ass
Wrong Lexus does !
What brakes would you recommend?? And rotors
Hi, My meredes c280 has done 78k km. Please let me do I need to replace only the brake pads or also the Rotors?
Rear disc you should of Change brake shoes?
This are a 4 piston caliper right?
If you only need to change the rear pads, do you need to undo the caliper? Or do you only need to undo the retaining pins and slide the new pads in? Thank you.
No need to undo the caliper for a pad change. Just remove the pins and retaining clip, swap the pads, reinstall and you're good. The hardest parts will be the pins removal (they may be seized), and pushing the pistons in as you can't use the screwdriver method (it'll damage the disc). A one-handed bar clamp should do the trick.
Beautiful car mugs what year is it I want the same one
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE PER AXLE
Why did you replace the front rotor and reinstall the caliper before removing the pads but you removed the rear brake pads and caliper before replacing the rear rotor?
What Mm are the rotors? 330 or 345mm?
Was it not necessary to bleed the brakes? To get any air out of lines? Thanks.
It is a good idea to replace your brake fluid every couple of years, as over time this hydraulic fluid will absorb moisture and dirt (coffee color) which will cause your brake pedal to feel spongy.
Wow! Can you come do my brakes? LOL!!!
Hi these wheels are 17 or 18 inch?
Can any body tell me if I’m gonna die if i only change the brakes because i keep being “recommended and told the rotors have to be done as well but no one seems to grasp that if i could afford too i would
А какой диаметр тормозные диски, 330mm?
whats the caliper part number?
why not wire brush the area of the hub?
HI. Is the disc 330mmX28mm?
When you buy your replacement ones, you need to be specific, if the Car is fitted with the "Sports Pack" (ie Fronts are drilled and slotted (not smooth) and the Rears (although smooth) are different to standard. All the same principles apply though.
Why do you change the rotors what if they are good
What was wrong with the old rotors? They looked still good to me.
Probably warped
I had some new powder coated Versus II rims on my C230K Coupe... The tire slipped from my hand and the cement pitted my rims. No one notices but me :(
I have a c32 amg the front pads are stuck
Where are the sensors at?
PRO TIP- leave the holding screw on the rotor, UNTIL you remove the caliper 😉
Can anyone tell me the OEM code for the diskbrakes?
?
Is it true that one HAS to change the rotors when one replaces the brake pads$??
Absolutely not. There is a minimal thickness for rotors, and then there's a minimal thickness for pads. Both are available in the factory service manual (and forums), just check for your specific model. Pads usually wear a lot quicker than rotors so it would be extremely wasteful to always replace both.
I did everything until the torquing process of the rear caliper bolts. The rear are not 80 ftlb as informed in your video, I believe they are 40 ftlb since not only did I strip my threads, the rear bolts are much weaker than the front bolts. Be aware and verify the correct torquing to the bolts!!!!
i would change the pins out mostly since the lock is a soft metal and they tend to wear out, also they dont cost much
My rear pins have seized, I've tapped with a hammer all over and soaked in plenty of wd40, what options do I have now?
mronemanband1 so then I've ruined the piston seals and need to buy complete replacement callipers?
You've probably sorted it out by now but for anyone else who has the same issue, have a look at this video: watch?v=SiWkVe3vXys
You can also look into drilling the pins out. You'll need to replace the pins and maybe the pads retaining clips.
My rotors will not come off. I removed the rotor screw and they still won't come off. Even after beating them with a hammer.
kuei12, me too. Apparently you spray wd40 on the hub area, leave it to soak then "shock" the disc with a hammer
Thanks. What I ended up doing was placing my $19 jack handle between the rotor and the caliper, bolt ear and prying it. They popped right off. No hammer in the world was going to release these. Those Germans don't know shit about breaks or changing oil or interior design. It's amazing they won WW2. Oh, wait, they lost!
One mistake no grease?
Bryan Henry and probably should cleaned the calipers up a bit too
Also you should be specific on everything detailed to the bone what your doing. Be specific how to put in the censors