The air trapped in the deep grooves of the commutator makes the brushes jump at high speeds, (mini sonic booms!) causing excessive sparks, shortening the life of the commutator and brushes. You also loose a lot of torque on the motor. I usually cut the grooves as deep as possible, clean it up and then fill the grooves with regular White Putty from Pratley. When dry, i level and smooth the commutator surface, and i have a brand new insulation on my commutator that is even and will prevent that nasty thing i mentioned, wearing down with the commutator evenly, (as it wears down over time) , making it truly as good as factory new. I also tend to micro-solder the connections on the commutator. Great video, thanx.
I never rewinded any motor or armature, but - at my old age - i'm trying to learn this stuff, as i fear the motors of my loved lathe and ( next ) mill could fail ... I have got a motor spare, but ... to learn is my insurance ... Your idea of air trapped in deep grooves seems to me very interesting, i'll memorize it for future rewinds ...
I’ve wound thousands of motors and armatures with equipment from the 50’s, an armature of this size was a 1 hour job and $25 in 1980 including balancing. Today the whole Harbor Freight tool is $25. Good stuff, the motor shop is long gone.
Back in the ‘60s I used to rewind the three pole armatures to hop up slot car motors. That was pretty simple. This, tho’ is another whole level of work. Pretty amazing.
Hi. had the same problem on rewinding 2 vaccum cleaner motors. 1- Commutator lost its quality and at 50 volts and above caused short circuit and spark. 2- Isolation liquid didn,t dry well. 3- didn,t balance well. Thank you
@@richardbuchli4071 no not always alot go over to thermosetting resin /plastic or epoxy based as cheaper than mica. On my bosch angle grinder there is no mica just slots in the copper seen alot of diff stuff over the years but ya alot use mica
@@MrRacerhacker Ok I'll take your word for it but I've never seen it. But also I only work on bigger armatures. Anywhere from 10hp. on up to 2000hp. They all have mica.
I Think 1 mistake is not soldering wires on commutator (no good connections) and second, the coils are impregnated with lacquer, not resin. and it is done in a vacuum chamber so that the varnish provides additional insulation and fix wires inside the rotor as well. Hope helps!
Nice job! Sometimes just a nick in the wire will create a short at higher voltages, creating the arc, as higher currents are flowing through that particular winding with the short. Good luck!
This is just brilliant I’ve never felt the inclination or need to do this but if I ever have to, I would certainly have a go. I always envisaged that it was just too much of a fat… but I like the idea of this and it seems something that I could certainly do. Thank you
The paths between the slats do not need to be filled with anything. There are new collectors whose tracks are filled and they need to be milled before installation.
great work, many thanks for the detailed video of repair for the rotor of a started ... actually personally this is not my job, I need to repair one like this similar rotor but I will take it to a workshop in my area is not worth it to invest materials and equipment for one rotor ,, in any way this was a very interesting video of the technique you present here on youtube for the right procedure, many thanks from Europe Greece, kind regards ... !! (correction the rotor in this video is ac, not a starter dc )
In the 60s slot car motor rewinding was a big deal. As the field magnetic flux decreases the speed increases. ( It is in the denominator of the equation for angular velocity ). They tended to melt down rapidly LOL. ❤❤
Use uma perda phomes enquanto o rotor estiver em movimento vai retificar melhor o coletor e diminuir o centelhamento. O bom é favzer uma revisão com o relógio comoarador no coletor, as vezes por mais que de o passe certinho ele pode sair de centro na hora do funcionamento do torno.
Obrigado pelo seu comentário. Eu entendi porque houve uma faísca. A âncora já foi rebobinada antes. E a direção do enrolamento das bobinas foi escolhida incorretamente. E eu copiei esse erro.
I've already figured it out - someone rewound the drill earlier and made a mistake in the winding circuit, and I copied the circuit with an error. But maybe I made a mistake somewhere else.
@@Fgh-ij1sn Someone rewound the armature of the electric motor before me and made a mistake in the winding scheme. I copied the wrong diagram. Most likely, the spark is due to this.
@@valsworkshop i mean it will good for all if this your comment with explanation would-be pinned on the top. I spent some time to find it. I think many others do the same.
Very close to being an educational video. Is the number of turns of the copper wire is random or necessary for each type of motor? How can I have this information?
Very nice, I've been tempted to try this myself but chickened out but wont next time. One thing I missed was how did you know how many turns were required
@@valsworkshop I went back to 8:07 and realised that the second winding is in the opposite direction in the same slot. I am surprised that there are 2 opposed sections but presumably they are switched on at different rotational positions otherwise they would cancel each other out! Thanks for the video - useful information if I ever feel it necessary to rewind a motor armature.
Я уже разобрался - дрель кто-то перематывал ранее и сделал ошибку в схеме намотки, а я скопировал схему. Провода на щетках пробовал местами менять, но к сожалению искрение остается.
@@valsworkshop в данном формате я не могу выложить правильную схему, но попробую объяснить. По вашей схеме надо начинать с ламели 3 и двигаться в сторону 2, а затем и ламели 1, и т.д
Static balancing on knives is the simplest method of determining rotor imbalance, which uses knives or prisms mounted strictly horizontally and in parallel. If you allow the wheel to roll freely over the knives, then after stopping, the center of mass of the wheel will take a position that does not coincide with the bottom point, due to rolling friction. When the wheel rotates in the opposite direction, it will take a different position after stopping. The average position of the lower point corresponds to the true position of the center of mass. Static balancing allows you to reduce vibration, load on bearings and increase the durability of the machine.
I rewound my motorcycle stator, and it's going on twenty years now, and still works fine. But I've never tackled something like this, thinking it was impossible, but now I just might give it a try. I've got two good quality drills that need it, and they've been on the shelf for years now. Where did you get the resin and supplies from. Was the insulating paper special material.
Maybe the turns number per section wasn't 2 x 34 in parallel, but 68 turns instead, hence the arcing? Compare with the stator wire diameter. If it's the same with the armature wire, my assumption might be right.
This video is excellent ,thanks to the autor ….Am actually trying to understand myself a winded rotor of dc motor brushed….brand new one … So I have a question for the autor : does all dc motors brushed be winded all the same ? Or does it exist several way of winded this things?…
Which epoxy resin is applied and best fo power tool high speed armature that doesn't get loose after heating up. I'll be thankful to you idf you please covey the exact details of the varnisg and applying method.
Hello, Professor. First of all, congratulations on the video, and please, I wanted to ask you a question: I have an armature from a vacuum cleaner, in which I cannot see the beginning of the coil. It is made in China, it has 24 wires and 24 slots, and since it is so automated, the starting point, wire/wire, is almost invisible, at least for me. In these cases, which almost certainly has happened to you as well, what do you do? Do I clean everything and start wherever I see fit, do I have to look for a coincidence between the slot and the wire, or what do you recommend? Thank you very much.
Hello. Before cleaning, it is necessary to remove the winding circuit. I apply a low voltage to the lamella through a transformer and use a thin steel plate to determine the grooves.
wow amazing job. But it's so much work to rewind a burnt out motor. I had couple of tools (garden weed wacker, electric chain saw) suddenly fail due to burnt out motor. But the problem is more design of the tool which does not keep active ventilating motor to cool it even when tool is not running to prevent motor burn out. Perhaps it's much easier to add small electric fan to keep running when the tool is plugged in to keep motor from burning out.
Thank you. Poor cooling is only one of the possible problems. I think it's rare in power tools. But for example, on my lathe I removed the motor protection and installed a fan for cooling. Without a fan, the temperature could rise to 100 degrees Celsius or even more; with the fan turned on, it doesn’t even reach 70. As a rule, it stays in the range of 45-55 degrees.
После несвоевременной замены счеток начал сльно искрить колектор. Одтал токарю на проточку. Был овал. После проточки осталась 1/3 толщины ламели. Думал конец. Но решил продолжить. С трудом отчистил прорези. Собрал перфоратор. Сетки искрили также как у вас. Синим пламенем. Решил прижать установленные счетки при включенном двигателе. Искрение уменьшилось. После нескольких повторений разобрал и почистил мелким наждаком колектор. Собрал перфоратор и проверил. Искрение существенно уменьшилось. Колектор греется, но прочитал, что его температура при работе может достигать 200градусов. Развел проводку в 1комнатной панельке, просверлил в силикатном кирпиче 2отверсия диаметром 25мм. Перф бочковой 1200Вт сдс+. Может еще походит😊
Не проще купить новый? Нет я понимаю экономия должна быть экономной но если работаешь и этим зарабатываешь то лучше не скупиться а то может в лучшем случае подвести не вовремя а в худшем и последствия могут быть, я даже для дома если покупаю то сломался и черт с ним проще купить новый и забыть на пару лет
Это дрель ИЭ 1036, вращение якоря должно быть по часовой стрелке (если смотреть со стороны коллектора), а у Вас против. Поменяйте провода подключения щёток и искрение пропадёт.
O enrolamento dos fios de cada canal devem ter o mesmo comprimento ( devem ser enrolados ao mesmo tempo ) então ambos teriam recebido a mesma corrente e tensão .........após a montagem as escovas deveriam ter sido assentadas para aumentar o contato com o coletor .
Are you electrician? Did you change commutator brushes? My idea is: Let you try, to make commutator brush more circullar. I mean, in a point of touching brush to commutator. Make it rounded with sandpaper between comm and brush. Medium and smooth grade sandpaper. And I recommend to polish smooth flat surface of commutator too. Not a deep wages on the comm because of long spark..
@@valsworkshop Thanks for the asnwear..What do you mean by special varnish?..Im a luthier and I use shellac for the woods as a precoat impregnation,other times I use a base coat gel by BORMA WACHS.Maybe colophonium also. Let me ask you more for the winding,in my case I have an armature stack from a Dremel Tool,it has 16 commutator pins and 8 bars in the stack,so I follow the procedure such as you do.How do I define where the starting commutator pin is to make the winding?The wiring was 0.1mm.I counted 356 wires in a slot/groove.
@@mountris7can I mean the varnishes that are used for impregnation during production. But those that I know require oven drying in compliance with certain drying conditions. Epoxy is simpler in this regard; the resin I use can be dried at room temperature. The beginning is where the end is. If the wire is not visible - the compound is in the way, then it can be picked out or burned. Or check with a multimeter. If there are 356 wires in the groove, then there are 89 turns in one section. Have you removed the winding diagram? We determined which lamellas the wires of the sections of one groove are connected to.
у меня тоже много хороших но сломаных советских дрелей тоже бы перемотать статоры и якори но пока не знаю где приобрести намоточный провод нужного диаметра
@@valsworkshop медь сейчас недешева... Тоже руки чешутся на точно такую же дрель, но начинаешь считать и... 1) такая же дрель в ломбарде стоит примерно в цену ремонта... 2) а не взять ли аккумуляторного китайца, который не привязан и в итоге мощнее???... В общем, как-то нерентабельно получается пока. Но, это что касается конкретного случая. Как пример технологии - безусловно ценно! 👍
@@СтепанСтепанов-м4и ну да, особенно если это киловатная дрель,то думаешь лучше взять китайца да ещё и аккумуляторного? А б/у это кот в мешке , по этому не факт что не выкинешь при первом же сверлении
Bom dia eu fiz um induzido de uma maquina karcher fiz com passo original mas troquei o coletor eo coletor que eu tinha o centro Era maior ai mandei torneiro fazer uma bucha aí fiz não gostei 😢
Es una buena enseñanza y me gustaria que se complementara indicando la relacion angular entre las bobinas y las delgas, llamado decalage, ya que se trata de un dato importante del que depende la velocidad y la potencia del motor y hasta ahora no lo enseñan en ningun video.
Для первого раза покатит. Как балансировать будешь - не знаю! Последние катушки будут сильно выпирать. Если дома мотаешь, нет станка для балансировки, надо с двух сторон мотать в два провода. Пару катушек в один паз, симметрично пару со второй стороны, опять пару (по числу ламелей)первый ровод, пару вторым. Тогда последние катушки лягут симмитрично в конце намотки. Дисбаланс будет минимальный. Удачи.
Приветствую. Насчет ошибки намотки якоря врятли, разве что направление выбрано не в ту сторону, но видится мне нужно и обмотки статора перемотать. Зеленый огонь, круговой огонь не есть хорошо.
Приветствую. Направление намотки было как раз не в ту сторону. Может и в статоре дело было. Я его прозванивал - показания у обмоток были одинаковые, решил, что он исправен. Но недавно попала в руки болгарка у которой был неисправный статор, показания индуктивности катушек статора практически одинаковые, правда раза в четыре ниже, чем у нового. Эту дрель в итоге использовал как донора - переставил редуктор на другую такую же дрель.
Thank you. I found out that the anchor had already been rewound before me and wound incorrectly, and I repeated the mistake. Or maybe it was something else.
You probably made no mistake. Run the motor for a long time on lower voltage to break in the brushes & commutator. Also check the crush pressure (it may be too low). Better a little too high than low.
Thank you for your advice. I've already figured it out - someone rewound the drill earlier and made a mistake in the winding scheme, and I copied the error.
Міжвиткове замикання може бути також і в обмотках статора. Статора ми перевіряли, якщо не помиляюсь приладом ЄЛ -... Це також може бути причиною іскріння.
Change commutator to smaller is big mistake. And also if there are new brushes, they need to "make shape as commutator wants" (i don't know word in english), in this time speed should be lowered. After that, motor can work with full power.
Wow dude,,,,, I don’t know if I have that much coffee and weed to do all that. Hospital near by to check in??? Haha 😂 but,,,, it is a clear explanation “if” it is something someone wants to try provided there’s enough weed and coffee!
Should of cut the comm with lathe, and then you could properly measure dc resistance with a milliohm meter (lm317 + 12.5Ω resistor for $1) and inductance values to properly figure out what exactly is wrong with it.
@@Эскен-о8з Давно уже дело было, но насколько я помню сверло крутилось в правильную сторону. Впрочем провода местами пробовал менять, искрение не пропало.
@@Эскен-о8з возможно я ошибся, я на это сильно внимание не обращал. Но все равно - провода менять местами пробовал, искрение меньше не стало. Хотя, замена проводов местами должна была помочь, но почему-то не помогла. Может быть я еще где-то накосячил.
Это у вас дрель ИЭ1035, мотор крутится не в ту сторону. Вы ошиблись в схеме намотки. Начала и концы секций поменяны местами. И балансировка у вас статическая, а нужна динамическая.
What? Your first experience with rewinding a motor armature - get outta here! Thanks for sharing your entry into rewinding a motor armature - this video has helped me understand electric motors better and your video is the closest to the video of the Pakistani Man working in small workshop with the tried and true primitive tools, but I didn't see him test it. I must have missed something, I saw that you played "paper football" by removing the commutator and thumping it to the trash and then you immediately placed a new (used) commutator on the bench. These past four-(4) days has been frustrating because I searched both TH-cam and the internet and also read the Electric Motor Repair book by Robert Rosenberg and I still cannot get the leaf blower to power on when plugged into electrical receptacle. I am trying to understand what type of motor is in my leaf blower: I was leaning towards a Alternating Current Motor Control because I must plug it into the house electrical receptacle for it to power on; however in my reading I learned that the Universal Motor is applicable to both AC and DC? I used color matching zip-ties, so I can reconnect the correct wires [only 2 pairs!!] I thought once I cleaned-up the commutator I thought my leaf blower was going to operate.
The air trapped in the deep grooves of the commutator makes the brushes jump at high speeds, (mini sonic booms!) causing excessive sparks, shortening the life of the commutator and brushes. You also loose a lot of torque on the motor. I usually cut the grooves as deep as possible, clean it up and then fill the grooves with regular White Putty from Pratley. When dry, i level and smooth the commutator surface, and i have a brand new insulation on my commutator that is even and will prevent that nasty thing i mentioned, wearing down with the commutator evenly, (as it wears down over time) , making it truly as good as factory new. I also tend to micro-solder the connections on the commutator. Great video, thanx.
Thank you
I learned much from your contribution!
@@wallacegrommet9343 My pleasure.
I never rewinded any motor or armature, but - at my old age - i'm trying to learn this stuff, as i fear the motors of my loved lathe and ( next ) mill could fail ...
I have got a motor spare, but ... to learn is my insurance ...
Your idea of air trapped in deep grooves seems to me very interesting, i'll memorize it for future rewinds ...
If the commutator is turned true, mica removed from the slots and seat the brushes, you won’t have that issue
I’ve wound thousands of motors and armatures with equipment from the 50’s, an armature of this size was a 1 hour job and $25 in 1980 including balancing. Today the whole Harbor Freight tool is $25. Good stuff, the motor shop is long gone.
And, would just one broken wire render the motor useless?
Nice job. You have the patience of a saint.
Of course it can. Thank you very much.
Yes, there is no circuit, so no current flow.
Bro that was so much more work than I ever imagined it would be to do that. Salute to you, it looks good.
Thank you very much
Back in the ‘60s I used to rewind the three pole armatures to hop up slot car motors. That was pretty simple. This, tho’ is another whole level of work. Pretty amazing.
Thank you
for the arcing, might recquire more undercutting on the commutator if its the old style with mica spacers
but long sparks usually points to the motor wires beeing short somewhere
Hi. had the same problem on rewinding 2 vaccum cleaner motors. 1- Commutator lost its quality and at 50 volts and above caused short circuit and spark. 2- Isolation liquid didn,t dry well. 3- didn,t balance well. Thank you
@@MrRacerhacker All commutators have mica spacers. Even the new ones.
@@richardbuchli4071 no not always alot go over to thermosetting resin /plastic or epoxy based as cheaper than mica. On my bosch angle grinder there is no mica just slots in the copper seen alot of diff stuff over the years but ya alot use mica
@@MrRacerhacker Ok I'll take your word for it but I've never seen it. But also I only work on bigger armatures. Anywhere from 10hp. on up to 2000hp. They all have mica.
Amazing work brother greetings from South Africa 🇿🇦 to you sir
Thank you very much
I Think 1 mistake is not soldering wires on commutator (no good connections) and second, the coils are impregnated with lacquer, not resin. and it is done in a vacuum chamber so that the varnish provides additional insulation and fix wires inside the rotor as well. Hope helps!
No, the problem turned out to be something else. I already answered in the comments.
I no longer want to try rewinding a motor.
Rewinding a motor is child's play compared to armature winding. Ive been a winder for 38 yrs now and ol run every time an armature enters the room 😂
One would rather Fast Forward it 😅
I’m thinking the exact same thing😂
Yep, answered all my questions. Next on the bucket list, frontal lobotomy for dumb people
Ditto!
Very impressive how you did that with such simple tools and techniques!
Thank you
Yep! CNC mills are very simple and cheap. 🙄
Nice job! Sometimes just a nick in the wire will create a short at higher voltages, creating the arc, as higher currents are flowing through that particular winding with the short. Good luck!
Thank you
Bonjour ! C'est ce qu'on appelle bien faire les choses ,c'est un plaisir de regarder votre travail .Clair,net et précis !D'Algerie
Merci!
This is just brilliant I’ve never felt the inclination or need to do this but if I ever have to, I would certainly have a go. I always envisaged that it was just too much of a fat… but I like the idea of this and it seems something that I could certainly do. Thank you
Thank you
Actually first video of ac armature winding I have got idea how to do it. Great bro
Thank you
was the run out in 10,000ths, i was impressed by your work
Thank you
Great video. Use high-speed sharp tool
steel
To Cut copper, it will leave less clean out in the grooves.
Thank you
Thank you man. I learned more from your video. Good work.
Thank you
13:33 Would be interesting to show the degree of balance of the rotor BEFORE the work was begun. What is the operating RPM?
I don't know, there is no sign on the drill, but it is low-speed.
You should solder the wires to the commutator. Good point made in the comments about filling the gaps between the commutator segments.
The paths between the slats do not need to be filled with anything. There are new collectors whose tracks are filled and they need to be milled before installation.
thanks val for sharing this video.. you deserve our subscription.. and follow
great work, many thanks for the detailed video of repair for the rotor of a started ... actually personally this is not my job, I need to repair one like this similar rotor but I will take it to a workshop in my area is not worth it to invest materials and equipment for one rotor ,, in any way this was a very interesting video of the technique you present here on youtube for the right procedure, many thanks from Europe Greece, kind regards ... !! (correction the rotor in this video is ac, not a starter dc )
Thank you!
سلام واقعا کارت عالی وفوالعاده بود ممنون بازم تعمیر کالاکتور برنامه بگذارokkk👍❤💚💛🇮🇷
ممنون
In the 60s slot car motor rewinding was a big deal. As the field magnetic flux decreases the speed increases. ( It is in the denominator of the equation for angular velocity ). They tended to melt down rapidly LOL. ❤❤
Use uma perda phomes enquanto o rotor estiver em movimento vai retificar melhor o coletor e diminuir o centelhamento.
O bom é favzer uma revisão com o relógio comoarador no coletor, as vezes por mais que de o passe certinho ele pode sair de centro na hora do funcionamento do torno.
Obrigado pelo seu comentário. Eu entendi porque houve uma faísca. A âncora já foi rebobinada antes. E a direção do enrolamento das bobinas foi escolhida incorretamente. E eu copiei esse erro.
please explane to me , How would I know the number of turn[the cupper coil] from one slot to another slot? by mines how many turn?
Cut or unwind the wire and calculate
Super jest przewinięty ten stary wirnik od stary wiertarki Pozdrawiam serdecznie. 👍👍👍👍👍
Podziękowanie
good job well done. one year passed have you found what the mistake was? it may be because of bad carbon brushe or the tight carbon brushe
I've already figured it out - someone rewound the drill earlier and made a mistake in the winding circuit, and I copied the circuit with an error. But maybe I made a mistake somewhere else.
@@valsworkshopplz pin on top a comment explaining the reason for the sparking that you found.
Great job 👍 . Thank you.
@@Fgh-ij1sn Someone rewound the armature of the electric motor before me and made a mistake in the winding scheme. I copied the wrong diagram. Most likely, the spark is due to this.
@@valsworkshop i mean it will good for all if this your comment with explanation would-be pinned on the top.
I spent some time to find it. I think many others do the same.
@@Fgh-ij1sn I would have done this if I was 100 percent sure that it was the wrong scheme.
Whatvis the solution sir that u pour on?thank u fo this tutorials.
Epoxy resin
It was very satisfying to watch. While lotta work!
Thank you
Very close to being an educational video. Is the number of turns of the copper wire is random or necessary for each type of motor?
How can I have this information?
To find out the number of turns, you need to take the wire out of the groove and count it, and then divide it by the number of sections in the groove.
Very nice, I've been tempted to try this myself but chickened out but wont next time. One thing I missed was how did you know how many turns were required
Thank you very much. I counted the number of wires in the groove and divided it by 4 to find out the number of turns in one section of the coil.
@@valsworkshop Why would you divide by four - I only saw 2 coils using the same slot!
@@johnantliff There are two coils in one slot, two sections each, for a total of four.
@@valsworkshop I went back to 8:07 and realised that the second winding is in the opposite direction in the same slot. I am surprised that there are 2 opposed sections but presumably they are switched on at different rotational positions otherwise they would cancel each other out! Thanks for the video - useful information if I ever feel it necessary to rewind a motor armature.
Попробуйте поменять провода на щётках местами, направление вращения изменится, возможно искрение уйдёт.
Я уже разобрался - дрель кто-то перематывал ранее и сделал ошибку в схеме намотки, а я скопировал схему. Провода на щетках пробовал местами менять, но к сожалению искрение остается.
@@valsworkshop в данном формате я не могу выложить правильную схему, но попробую объяснить. По вашей схеме надо начинать с ламели 3 и двигаться в сторону 2, а затем и ламели 1, и т.д
@@АлександрБаканов-у4н Спасибо, со схемой я уже разобрался
I want to learn how you balanced the rotor. Can you explain that.
This is a static balancing "on knives"
@@valsworkshophow can we do it with steps
Static balancing on knives is the simplest method of determining rotor imbalance, which uses knives or prisms mounted strictly horizontally and in parallel.
If you allow the wheel to roll freely over the knives, then after stopping, the center of mass of the wheel will take a position that does not coincide with the bottom point, due to rolling friction. When the wheel rotates in the opposite direction, it will take a different position after stopping. The average position of the lower point corresponds to the true position of the center of mass.
Static balancing allows you to reduce vibration, load on bearings and increase the durability of the machine.
@@valsworkshop thank you for your kindly reply.
@@راميعزت-ز2ج Thank you
how did you know there were 34 windings - did you count them but how they were hack sawed off?
I counted it. The video shows how he sawed it off.
I rewound my motorcycle stator, and it's going on twenty years now, and still works fine. But I've never tackled something like this, thinking it was impossible, but now I just might give it a try. I've got two good quality drills that need it, and they've been on the shelf for years now. Where did you get the resin and supplies from. Was the insulating paper special material.
I bought resin and electric cardboard at a store in my city.
@@valsworkshop Okay, thanks.
what liquid/putty did you use for the windings? I need that
The windings were impregnated with epoxy resin
Maybe the turns number per section wasn't 2 x 34 in parallel, but 68 turns instead, hence the arcing? Compare with the stator wire diameter. If it's the same with the armature wire, my assumption might be right.
I've already figured it out - someone rewound the drill earlier and made a mistake in the winding scheme, and I copied the scheme.
Hi! Very interesting, thanks! @@valsworkshop But what was exactly the mistake in the winding scheme?
@@PP3000-fk9lx If I remember correctly, it was wound in the opposite direction, that is, the beginning and end of the winding were reversed.
@@valsworkshop Ok, thanks!
This video is excellent ,thanks to the autor ….Am actually trying to understand myself a winded rotor of dc motor brushed….brand new one …
So I have a question for the autor : does all dc motors brushed be winded all the same ? Or does it exist several way of winded this things?…
Thank you. I will not be able to answer your question, as I am just beginning to understand this topic.
hello sir ,I have two armatures can you remind for me pl.give yours wapp.no.
@@ramumane7875 Hi. I don't have any wapp.no
With such an abundance of tools, isn't it easier to buy another tool?
Of course it's easier.
Not when the motor you are working on has not been produced in 90+ years. Easy also does not always equal right.
Which epoxy resin is applied and best fo power tool high speed armature that doesn't get loose after heating up. I'll be thankful to you idf you please covey the exact details of the varnisg and applying method.
Which one is best suited, I do not know, I'm just learning to rewind. I use KER-828 resin and ЭТАЛ-45 hardener.
Разводишь в ацетоне , более жидкая пропитывает лучше . При высыхании и отвердевании она так же хорошо изолирует.
@@leonk16.49 С этим отвердителем смола и так получается довольно жидкая. Я проверял - склеивает в монолит.
❤мастер сваих рук
Великаоепная,работа
Тонкости и чëткости брава
Hello, Professor. First of all, congratulations on the video, and please, I wanted to ask you a question: I have an armature from a vacuum cleaner, in which I cannot see the beginning of the coil. It is made in China, it has 24 wires and 24 slots, and since it is so automated, the starting point, wire/wire, is almost invisible, at least for me. In these cases, which almost certainly has happened to you as well, what do you do? Do I clean everything and start wherever I see fit, do I have to look for a coincidence between the slot and the wire, or what do you recommend? Thank you very much.
Hello. Before cleaning, it is necessary to remove the winding circuit. I apply a low voltage to the lamella through a transformer and use a thin steel plate to determine the grooves.
awesome work! I have a generator stator to rebuild but I think it's not the same process.
Thank you. I think that restoring the generator stator is a more difficult job.
You are a brave man to do it!
Thank you
wow amazing job. But it's so much work to rewind a burnt out motor. I had couple of tools (garden weed wacker, electric chain saw) suddenly fail due to burnt out motor. But the problem is more design of the tool which does not keep active ventilating motor to cool it even when tool is not running to prevent motor burn out. Perhaps it's much easier to add small electric fan to keep running when the tool is plugged in to keep motor from burning out.
Thank you. Poor cooling is only one of the possible problems. I think it's rare in power tools. But for example, on my lathe I removed the motor protection and installed a fan for cooling. Without a fan, the temperature could rise to 100 degrees Celsius or even more; with the fan turned on, it doesn’t even reach 70. As a rule, it stays in the range of 45-55 degrees.
Hello, did you do the winding in series because that's how it was, or did you do it that way because it's easier than in parallel?. Thanks.
Hi. I wound it up like that because it was wound up like that before.
what did you use to visualize the armature windings @ 09:23?
pictures
После несвоевременной замены счеток начал сльно искрить колектор. Одтал токарю на проточку. Был овал. После проточки осталась 1/3 толщины ламели. Думал конец. Но решил продолжить. С трудом отчистил прорези. Собрал перфоратор. Сетки искрили также как у вас. Синим пламенем. Решил прижать установленные счетки при включенном двигателе. Искрение уменьшилось. После нескольких повторений разобрал и почистил мелким наждаком колектор. Собрал перфоратор и проверил. Искрение существенно уменьшилось. Колектор греется, но прочитал, что его температура при работе может достигать 200градусов. Развел проводку в 1комнатной панельке, просверлил в силикатном кирпиче 2отверсия диаметром 25мм. Перф бочковой 1200Вт сдс+. Может еще походит😊
У меня искрило по другой причине
Не проще купить новый? Нет я понимаю экономия должна быть экономной но если работаешь и этим зарабатываешь то лучше не скупиться а то может в лучшем случае подвести не вовремя а в худшем и последствия могут быть, я даже для дома если покупаю то сломался и черт с ним проще купить новый и забыть на пару лет
@@akkakkii1213 индусам скажите , которые лям просмотров имеют ...
@@akkakkii1213 Да, проще
@@Akhmed_Laptev индусы это отдельное государство ))) там проще сделать чем купить 🤷
what if you don't use epoxy at all?
it won't work for long
Errou em colocar o mesmo coletor ele ja estava com fuga
É possível
Это дрель ИЭ 1036, вращение якоря должно быть по часовой стрелке (если смотреть со стороны коллектора), а у Вас против. Поменяйте провода подключения щёток и искрение пропадёт.
Провода менял, искрение не пропало.
The answewr is in the tool your using on the armature type drill ;)
Thanks
Turn on CC for comments!
What if you change the size of the wire????
For what?
O enrolamento dos fios de cada canal devem ter o mesmo comprimento ( devem ser enrolados ao mesmo tempo ) então ambos teriam recebido a mesma corrente e tensão .........após a montagem as escovas deveriam ter sido assentadas para aumentar o contato com o coletor .
very good rewinding!
Thank you
Are you electrician? Did you change commutator brushes? My idea is: Let you try, to make commutator brush more circullar. I mean, in a point of touching brush to commutator. Make it rounded with sandpaper between comm and brush. Medium and smooth grade sandpaper. And I recommend to polish smooth flat surface of commutator too. Not a deep wages on the comm because of long spark..
I tried polishing the brushes, it didn't help.
Нужны ли на самом деле лобовые изоляторы - сомневаюсь. Пазовые изоляторы из картона и так держат провод с зазором от железа якоря. Я бы упростил...
Хуже точно не будет
epoxy name?
epoxy KER 828 hardener Этал-45М
@@valsworkshop Is this epoxy the only proper or can we use any other kind?
@@mountris7can You can use a special varnish for impregnation, but I prefer epoxy resin.
@@valsworkshop Thanks for the asnwear..What do you mean by special varnish?..Im a luthier and I use shellac for the woods as a precoat impregnation,other times I use a base coat gel by BORMA WACHS.Maybe colophonium also.
Let me ask you more for the winding,in my case I have an armature stack from a Dremel Tool,it has 16 commutator pins and 8 bars in the stack,so I follow the procedure such as you do.How do I define
where the starting commutator pin is to make the winding?The wiring was 0.1mm.I counted 356 wires in a slot/groove.
@@mountris7can I mean the varnishes that are used for impregnation during production. But those that I know require oven drying in compliance with certain drying conditions. Epoxy is simpler in this regard; the resin I use can be dried at room temperature. The beginning is where the end is. If the wire is not visible - the compound is in the way, then it can be picked out or burned. Or check with a multimeter. If there are 356 wires in the groove, then there are 89 turns in one section. Have you removed the winding diagram? We determined which lamellas the wires of the sections of one groove are connected to.
Parabéns, que trabalheira ein !
Obrigado.
Після перегляду Вашого відео, у мене знову з'явилось бажання перемотувати якорі.
Эпоксидка обычная, или какая-то для электрики?
Смола KER-828 + отвердитель Этал-45М
у меня тоже много хороших но сломаных советских дрелей тоже бы перемотать статоры и якори но пока не знаю где приобрести намоточный провод нужного диаметра
Я покупаю в магазине в своем городе, но можно, например, и на Озоне заказать.
@@valsworkshop ммм надо попробовать
@@valsworkshop медь сейчас недешева... Тоже руки чешутся на точно такую же дрель, но начинаешь считать и... 1) такая же дрель в ломбарде стоит примерно в цену ремонта... 2) а не взять ли аккумуляторного китайца, который не привязан и в итоге мощнее???... В общем, как-то нерентабельно получается пока. Но, это что касается конкретного случая. Как пример технологии - безусловно ценно! 👍
@@СтепанСтепанов-м4и ну да, особенно если это киловатная дрель,то думаешь лучше взять китайца да ещё и аккумуляторного? А б/у это кот в мешке , по этому не факт что не выкинешь при первом же сверлении
Fascinating!
Thanks
nice work for the experience but time wasted. Good Video.
Thank you
Du beau travail !
Merci!
Bom dia eu fiz um induzido de uma maquina karcher fiz com passo original mas troquei o coletor eo coletor que eu tinha o centro Era maior ai mandei torneiro fazer uma bucha aí fiz não gostei 😢
Olá. Está claro.
Es una buena enseñanza y me gustaria que se complementara indicando la relacion angular entre las bobinas y las delgas, llamado decalage, ya que se trata de un dato importante del que depende la velocidad y la potencia del motor y hasta ahora no lo enseñan en ningun video.
Gracias por el comentario
Для первого раза покатит. Как балансировать будешь - не знаю! Последние катушки будут сильно выпирать. Если дома мотаешь, нет станка для балансировки, надо с двух сторон мотать в два провода. Пару катушек в один паз, симметрично пару со второй стороны, опять пару (по числу ламелей)первый ровод, пару вторым. Тогда последние катушки лягут симмитрично в конце намотки. Дисбаланс будет минимальный. Удачи.
Спасибо
Nice rewinfing motor
Thank you
Brave man!!!❤️👍
Приветствую. Насчет ошибки намотки якоря врятли, разве что направление выбрано не в ту сторону, но видится мне нужно и обмотки статора перемотать. Зеленый огонь, круговой огонь не есть хорошо.
Приветствую. Направление намотки было как раз не в ту сторону. Может и в статоре дело было. Я его прозванивал - показания у обмоток были одинаковые, решил, что он исправен. Но недавно попала в руки болгарка у которой был неисправный статор, показания индуктивности катушек статора практически одинаковые, правда раза в четыре ниже, чем у нового. Эту дрель в итоге использовал как донора - переставил редуктор на другую такую же дрель.
@@valsworkshop Жаль, а так хороший инструмент. Был.
Но, ваш навык дорогого стоит.
@@gorail7545 Спасибо!
Very interesting. Nice work sir
Thank you
Центровку якоря нужно было делать после проточки коллектора.
Какой в этом смысл?
Need a growler to test for shorts and open circuits before you epoxy,
I'm checking with an inductance tester
Great work...
Congratulations
Thank you
не проще новый купить?
В продаже нет
Я ждал что он хотя бы проверит его в работе! Или он в музей его положит?) 😂
Посмотрите видео до конца
check the armature on a growler, somethings not right , it shouldn't spark like that. It won't last long if you run it especially under load.
Thank you. I found out that the anchor had already been rewound before me and wound incorrectly, and I repeated the mistake. Or maybe it was something else.
You probably made no mistake. Run the motor for a long time on lower voltage to break in the brushes & commutator. Also check the crush pressure (it may be too low). Better a little too high than low.
Thank you for your advice. I've already figured it out - someone rewound the drill earlier and made a mistake in the winding scheme, and I copied the error.
Міжвиткове замикання може бути також і в обмотках статора. Статора ми перевіряли, якщо не помиляюсь приладом ЄЛ -... Це також може бути причиною іскріння.
Не в цьому випадку
Change commutator to smaller is big mistake. And also if there are new brushes, they need to "make shape as commutator wants" (i don't know word in english), in this time speed should be lowered. After that, motor can work with full power.
Thank you
Wow dude,,,,, I don’t know if I have that much coffee and weed to do all that. Hospital near by to check in??? Haha 😂 but,,,, it is a clear explanation “if” it is something someone wants to try provided there’s enough weed and coffee!
Можно просто всыпную обмотку. Пропитка эпоксидной смолой разведённой в ацетоне.
можно
Great work!
Thank you
Добрий день. Якор потрібно перевіряти на міжвиткове замикання. Є різноманітні пристрої. Самий простий варіант : спеціальний саморобний трансформатор.
Привіт. Перевіряв за допомогою тестера індуктивності.
@valsworkshop багато є ще інших причин. Пробивання на корпус перевіряли, мегаомметром?
@@ВеніамінБорвин-я6н Так
Should of cut the comm with lathe, and then you could properly measure dc resistance with a milliohm meter (lm317 + 12.5Ω resistor for $1) and inductance values to properly figure out what exactly is wrong with it.
Thank you very much
OK nice work
Thank you
Amazing work 10:30
Thank you
Clear and concise
Thank you
Just Wow!!! 😮
Thanks
Балансировку надо делать после проточки и полировки.
Спасибо
Робэ?
Нет
Нужно изменить направление вращения якоря поменяв местами провода на шёткодержателях
Если изменить направление вращения якоря, то придется только левыми сверлами сверлить.
@@valsworkshop он у Вас не туда крутится на видео ,установите редуктор и увидите
@@Эскен-о8з Давно уже дело было, но насколько я помню сверло крутилось в правильную сторону. Впрочем провода местами пробовал менять, искрение не пропало.
@@valsworkshop пересмотрел видео якорь точно не туда вращается я этой модели дрелей перемотал не один десяток 25 лет якоря мотаю
@@Эскен-о8з возможно я ошибся, я на это сильно внимание не обращал. Но все равно - провода менять местами пробовал, искрение меньше не стало. Хотя, замена проводов местами должна была помочь, но почему-то не помогла. Может быть я еще где-то накосячил.
Это у вас дрель ИЭ1035, мотор крутится не в ту сторону. Вы ошиблись в схеме намотки. Начала и концы секций поменяны местами. И балансировка у вас статическая, а нужна динамическая.
Про балансировку верно - буду делать станок для динамической балансировки.
Clean the carbon with Aceton. And the carbons too.
Thank you
What? Your first experience with rewinding a motor armature - get outta here! Thanks for sharing your entry into rewinding a motor armature - this video has helped me understand electric motors better and your video is the closest to the video of the Pakistani Man working in small workshop with the tried and true primitive tools, but I didn't see him test it. I must have missed something, I saw that you played "paper football" by removing the commutator and thumping it to the trash and then you immediately placed a new (used) commutator on the bench. These past four-(4) days has been frustrating because I searched both TH-cam and the internet and also read the Electric Motor Repair book by Robert Rosenberg and I still cannot get the leaf blower to power on when plugged into electrical receptacle. I am trying to understand what type of motor is in my leaf blower: I was leaning towards a Alternating Current Motor Control because I must plug it into the house electrical receptacle for it to power on; however in my reading I learned that the Universal Motor is applicable to both AC and DC? I used color matching zip-ties, so I can reconnect the correct wires [only 2 pairs!!] I thought once I cleaned-up the commutator I thought my leaf blower was going to operate.
Good job
Thank you
Was hoping Val was a girl. Want more women doing this kind of stuff.....I would have heated everything to soften the lacquer before prying any copper.
Thank you
Good job, except balancing
Thank you
Why not record a commentary, so that people will know what you're doing?
Have you turned on the subtitles?