That’s amazing thank you so much for mentioning where you saw the products. It really helps a lot! But I absolutely love this tool and bearings. They’ve been nothing but amazing! The tool really comes in handy. Makes life sooooo much easier.
So awesome!! Well worth the money in my opinion. If it wasn’t for me making the video I could have swapped both front wheel bearings in record speed haha
Oh man, thanks Dustin I really appreciate that so much! That’s super cool and generous of you! At this point the car is just about finished being prepped enough to test. But unfortunately I just realized that we have a brake leak at the caliper so the car is just hanging out at this point until a new caliper is ordered. (not happy about it) Are you heading out to Yerington? Racing? Just hanging out? Poker run? That’s awesome!
@@STOKED2SHRED2 we are going to try to do the poker run, need to figure out the driving on the road part. Not sure how much spectating there is to be done, or the other festivities.
@@Dustin_Curley So what I think we might do is obviously do the poker run, and when we get back to our camp/pit I’ll look over the car to make sure everything is good then load it up on the trailer and drag to downtown Yerington which I think is about 20miles or so is what they said. Do our tech inspection and hang out downtown because they close down the street and you can check out all the race cars and walk around.
@@STOKED2SHRED2 will you have to drive the car from the end of the poker run back to the trailer? Not sure how the highway driving works... don't want to take up racer space just to do the poker run either.
@@Dustin_Curley Eh I wouldn’t worry about taking up racer space. Their will be plenty… But the poker run will go from start/finish near Walker River Resort out into the desert for a 75 mile loop to end up back at the Start/finish line with one card left. You can either then choose to drive your car into town, or tow it into town to grab your last card and turn in your hand at the Chevron station. But if you drive the RZR into town you’ll have to have an escort from what I understand. Not really sure. But in town is where all the vendors and tech will take place.
The popping is from the outer race shifting in the knuckles. That’s why they have you put the retaining compound on the new bearings. All of that play you see on the inner race goes away when you torque the axle nut.
Although that is a very legitimate reason, Polaris actually claimed the knuckles are bored out too big on the 2020 models and suggest to replace the knuckles with 2021 model knuckles or remove and add new bearings with loc-tite. The factory bearings still move and have play with the axle but torqued down. Which is why you hear the popping sound when you push on the tire even with everything torqued and assembled properly from the factory. With the new sealed bearings and everything that I’ve done In the video, the popping sound is officially gone!
Wow, that product sure makes a difference! I wouldn’t know if I heard the clunking since I’m deaf!? Would you be able to feel it! Makes me wonder how dirty mine could be since its a 2015 XP 1000, but have had it a couple years now as I am the 2nd owner! Hope things start looking up for you out there! Thanks for sharing!🤘😎
I had a 2006 800 sportsman that I replaced the wheel bearing in...You could see the red clay mud stains on the bearings. I replaced them with timken sealed bearings... I have a 2022 rzr pro XP now..I hear a clunk when i'm turning...The suspension squeaks bad....got about 20 hours on it now...
If you hear a clunk while turning, backing up, or even when you try jacking the front end up chances are it’s a wheel bearing issue. Before replacing the bearing try to tighten the axle nut and see if that helps. Sometimes these bearings settle in being that you only have 20hrs on it… If that doesn’t work, the. It’s time to replace the bearings.
Nice, I have a 22 Pro XP on the way. Good to know upgrade. The press looks just like a FWD bearing press kit, just have to find the size that pushes and receives the bearing
I've got a 2021 with 450 miles on 2 trips. I'm getting clicking noises while driving that didn't seem normal. I thought it was the Dynamics solenoids in action. Now I'm thinking it may be the bearings. Heading out in a few days. I'll have to review my thoughts. If I jack up a wheel can I detect this by jiggling a half shaft??
So the clicking, clunking and popping noise I’m talking about is pretty good audible clunking sound that you can not only hear, but can feel too while driving at slow speeds. If you walk up to your car while all 4 tires are on the ground you can grab the tire/wheel with your hands and have your knees pushed against the sidewall and give it a good push and pull. If it makes a pop sound, that means it needs to be changed or fixed. If it doesn’t make that sound you might be ok for a little while and it shouldn’t be too much of a concern just yet. I would do it to all 4 tires and see what happens.
No, if you purchase these Kryptonite bearings just be sure to use green Loctite when installing it into your 2020 knuckle that you currently have and it fixed the problem!
@@andreaedds8273 If you walk up to your car from the side and with both hands grab the top of the wheel/tire and pull/push hard and it makes a pop sound. It’s the bearings. Or even if you’re driving the car and you turn the wheel and hear a crack or pop, it’s the bearings… If it makes a sound fairly easily I would change them out. I mean why wait until it’s terrible if you can get ahead of it right? If it barely makes a sound, and you feel comfortable with waiting then by all means wait… But I would go through the cars suspension knuckle area and make sure everything is nice a tight before doing the bearings. Sometimes things come loose!🤷🏻♂️ Even the axle nut!
Hey I have a turbo s and I'm planning replace the ball joint may I ask what is u opinion about kryptonite ball joint? Are bigger than the stock ones? Or just are better for the warranty? Thanks
Well, it all depends on your type of riding and your setup to be honest. I like the Kryptonite ball joints but I haven’t had the best of luck with them. If you’re willing to splurge a little I recommend getting the RCV 300m balljoints, Keller ball joints, or even the LM UTV ones. I run RCV and haven’t had any issues at all. I’ve heard a lot of good things about Keller, but don’t have any ext with them. Hope that helps.
The KM3 was such a crappy tire to race on. I blew at least one every race. If not, 2 or 3. The traction from the tensor was a huge improvement too! But I don’t run the regulator’s I run a DSR33. The older regulators that have a mud tread pattern was a bit on the heavy side because it was a DOT tire. The new one is supposed to be modeled after the DSR33 (Desert Series Race) which is their race tire. I’ve heard a lot of good things about them so far. I have a buddy that races on a set actually.
So I just picked up a set of Polaris HD bearings and swapped them out for the Kryptonite ones that I’ve been blowing through for quite some time now. I’m not sure how to do a “comparison” video because the outside of each bearings look the same I guess you could say, but all I can really do is put these new HD bearings to the test to see how long they last compared to the Kryptonite ones. 🤷🏻♂️
I took my 2021 pro xp 4 seater out last night and everything seemed fine for about an hour. my machine has 650 miles on it and about 35 total hours and now I have a loud clunking in the rear on the driver side that you can definitely hear no matter the speed when going over any bumps and you can feel it in the floor boards as well. I parked it and rock the machine side to side and can hear the clunking. I push on the top of the rear tire and can feel almost what I would describe as a pop feeling. Do you think it’s the bearing or possibly something else. Sorry for the long post just trying to figure this out.
Yes you can still grease it. The seal is just on the outer part of the bearing which is just a dust seal to keep dirt and debris out. The center of the bearing is still open and allows you to grease it.
So I believe im having the same issue on my 2021 Turbo s. If I steer side to side at slow speeds or pulling into my garage it pops and clunks. In 4x4 its worse. Think its my bearings as well?
Yes I’m more than sure that’s the case. A check that you can do is when your car is in the garage or even out on the trail go up and grab the top of your front tire on either side and give it a good push and pull using your knees and arms and if it clunks or makes a sound. 99% sure it’s your wheel bearings. That’s why mine did for the longest time before I switched bearings.
At slow speeds whether I’m backing up or unloading it from the trailer, whatever it may be the front end would pop, click and clunk. I thought it was something a bit worse than just a bearing, but it seemed to fix my issue and now it doesn’t make any noise at all.
@@STOKED2SHRED2 Yep slow speeds its worse and on pavement. Just pulling into garage it does it. I heard it was a big problem on the Pro xp's not so much on the turbo s but still happens. Its under warranty (not even two months old and 450 miles) so ill have them do it in case front end goes out they dont blame it on the new bearings. I don't like their fix which is basically retorquing the axle nut with thread locker or something.
@@STOKED2SHRED2 Im gonna do that when I get off work. Hope I hear it cause initially I thought it was the rear end or trans. I feel it in the floorboard.
@@mikem2915 Oh totally, you can feel it in the steering wheel too. I though it was my steering at first until I started doing the pull on the tire trick. Just pull on it with a good amount of force. So Polaris’ Fox or “warranty” fix is to remove the old bearing add loctite and reinstall the old bearing. The stock Polaris bearings aren’t sealed like these Kryptonite ones are. Plus they’re way stronger!!!
You can. There’s products out there that you can buy that will grease these bearings. Unfortunately there’s a fine line between too much grease and not enough. It’s best to stay on top of the grease to prevent any potential wear, but I honestly just swap them out at any sign of noise or play.
Just so you know your supposed to use bearing retaining compound....not blue locktight blue locktight will break free at a much lower temp...use locktight brand green bearing retainer
Am I the only one bothered by the fact that these rigs cost $25,000 and you have to do this to them when you first get them or they break later on I don't get it for the amount of money you spend you should not have to be worrying about these problems
You are completely not wrong at all… For the price of these we shouldn’t have to fix dumb things such as this, I will 100% agree with you there. But in the same cases as small recalls in let’s say a pickup truck, or any car you buy off the production line there’s going to be slight mistakes in manufacturing, it just happens… In this case from what I understand is Polaris knows about this issue and I guess it’s not a big enough problem to create a recall about it since it doesn’t or can’t cause any harm to anyone other than the car itself. But personally I would much rather run these Kryptonite bearings because they’re sealed, much stronger, and will last 100x longer than OEM. I say it’s a great upgrade if you ask me!
That is absolutely correct. They wanted you to buy new parts to fix the problem. A new OEM knuckle is not cheap and on top Of that you need to buy new wheel bearings!
The $15 bearing doesn’t remove the dirt and sand that’s already in the bearings, it just masks only one of the issues. Replace them with lifetime warranty sealed bearings, with tighter tolerances that are wayyyy stronger than OEM and boom, problem solved for good. 👍🏼 Plus the bearing had to be removed anyway, to solve the popping sound which is caused by the bearing moving around in the knuckle. The Polaris “fix” is to remove the bearing from the knuckle and add lock-tite, then reinstall.
Once u add grease to sand and dirt, it just helps wear it out faster. Unless u can clean out the dirt first and repack, that would be the way. But who has time to fiddle with shit bearings
Polaris uses shit bearings on they're snowmobiles. I dont even bother cleaning and regreasing, just buy a sleeve of 10 and replace them every fall for 30$
The content was good but you could shave half the video off if the whole thing wasn't and ad. Hope they are paying you a bunch to waste our time with that.
Unfortunately nobody is paying me a dime to make any of these videos. I showcase these products because I stand behind the product or the companies themselves. Simply because I go in depth or maybe the ease of using a certain product doesn’t mean it’s an ad. I apologize if I gave you that impression because it wasn’t my intention. I guess that’s why they created the fast forward feature 👍🏼
@@STOKED2SHRED2 I don't really mean to be rude by it, but it is criticism, so there is only being so nice... It takes a bunch of work to put these videos together, and not stutter, or have dead air, get things in frame and focus, etc.. You are doing a pretty good job. But just as feed back I ended up skipping a lot due to not getting to the point.
I ordered my Kryptonite Products bearings and puller/installer - based solely on this video. I made sure they knew where I saw them.
That’s amazing thank you so much for mentioning where you saw the products. It really helps a lot!
But I absolutely love this tool and bearings. They’ve been nothing but amazing! The tool really comes in handy. Makes life sooooo much easier.
Holy moly that baring press is crazy AWSOME!!
So awesome!! Well worth the money in my opinion. If it wasn’t for me making the video I could have swapped both front wheel bearings in record speed haha
Yeah that’s super slick. Thanks for sharing man!
Of course!!! 🍻
Garage is always open man! I don't even know you guys but I feel like I do. Hopefully will see you in Yerington.
Oh man, thanks Dustin I really appreciate that so much! That’s super cool and generous of you! At this point the car is just about finished being prepped enough to test. But unfortunately I just realized that we have a brake leak at the caliper so the car is just hanging out at this point until a new caliper is ordered. (not happy about it)
Are you heading out to Yerington? Racing? Just hanging out? Poker run? That’s awesome!
@@STOKED2SHRED2 we are going to try to do the poker run, need to figure out the driving on the road part. Not sure how much spectating there is to be done, or the other festivities.
@@Dustin_Curley So what I think we might do is obviously do the poker run, and when we get back to our camp/pit I’ll look over the car to make sure everything is good then load it up on the trailer and drag to downtown Yerington which I think is about 20miles or so is what they said. Do our tech inspection and hang out downtown because they close down the street and you can check out all the race cars and walk around.
@@STOKED2SHRED2 will you have to drive the car from the end of the poker run back to the trailer? Not sure how the highway driving works... don't want to take up racer space just to do the poker run either.
@@Dustin_Curley Eh I wouldn’t worry about taking up racer space. Their will be plenty… But the poker run will go from start/finish near Walker River Resort out into the desert for a 75 mile loop to end up back at the Start/finish line with one card left. You can either then choose to drive your car into town, or tow it into town to grab your last card and turn in your hand at the Chevron station. But if you drive the RZR into town you’ll have to have an escort from what I understand. Not really sure. But in town is where all the vendors and tech will take place.
That bearing puller/press is awesome.
It seriously is! Made life sooo much easier.
FWD wheel bearing press, look them up. They are cheep and have multiple sizes in kit
The popping is from the outer race shifting in the knuckles. That’s why they have you put the retaining compound on the new bearings. All of that play you see on the inner race goes away when you torque the axle nut.
Although that is a very legitimate reason, Polaris actually claimed the knuckles are bored out too big on the 2020 models and suggest to replace the knuckles with 2021 model knuckles or remove and add new bearings with loc-tite. The factory bearings still move and have play with the axle but torqued down. Which is why you hear the popping sound when you push on the tire even with everything torqued and assembled properly from the factory. With the new sealed bearings and everything that I’ve done In the video, the popping sound is officially gone!
How have the bearings held up now 3 years later
Wow, that product sure makes a difference! I wouldn’t know if I heard the clunking since I’m deaf!? Would you be able to feel it! Makes me wonder how dirty mine could be since its a 2015 XP 1000, but have had it a couple years now as I am the 2nd owner! Hope things start looking up for you out there! Thanks for sharing!🤘😎
I had a 2006 800 sportsman that I replaced the wheel bearing in...You could see the red clay mud stains on the bearings. I replaced them with timken sealed bearings... I have a 2022 rzr pro XP now..I hear a clunk when i'm turning...The suspension squeaks bad....got about 20 hours on it now...
If you hear a clunk while turning, backing up, or even when you try jacking the front end up chances are it’s a wheel bearing issue. Before replacing the bearing try to tighten the axle nut and see if that helps. Sometimes these bearings settle in being that you only have 20hrs on it… If that doesn’t work, the. It’s time to replace the bearings.
Nice, I have a 22 Pro XP on the way. Good to know upgrade. The press looks just like a FWD bearing press kit, just have to find the size that pushes and receives the bearing
I've got a 2021 with 450 miles on 2 trips. I'm getting clicking noises while driving that didn't seem normal. I thought it was the Dynamics solenoids in action. Now I'm thinking it may be the bearings. Heading out in a few days. I'll have to review my thoughts. If I jack up a wheel can I detect this by jiggling a half shaft??
So the clicking, clunking and popping noise I’m talking about is pretty good audible clunking sound that you can not only hear, but can feel too while driving at slow speeds. If you walk up to your car while all 4 tires are on the ground you can grab the tire/wheel with your hands and have your knees pushed against the sidewall and give it a good push and pull. If it makes a pop sound, that means it needs to be changed or fixed. If it doesn’t make that sound you might be ok for a little while and it shouldn’t be too much of a concern just yet. I would do it to all 4 tires and see what happens.
Do I have to replace the knuckle and upgrade the bearings or can I just replace the bearings and leave my 2020 knuckles?
No, if you purchase these Kryptonite bearings just be sure to use green Loctite when installing it into your 2020 knuckle that you currently have and it fixed the problem!
If our aren’t as loose as yours do you think it’s still the bearing?
@@andreaedds8273 If you walk up to your car from the side and with both hands grab the top of the wheel/tire and pull/push hard and it makes a pop sound. It’s the bearings. Or even if you’re driving the car and you turn the wheel and hear a crack or pop, it’s the bearings…
If it makes a sound fairly easily I would change them out. I mean why wait until it’s terrible if you can get ahead of it right? If it barely makes a sound, and you feel comfortable with waiting then by all means wait… But I would go through the cars suspension knuckle area and make sure everything is nice a tight before doing the bearings. Sometimes things come loose!🤷🏻♂️ Even the axle nut!
Where did you get your doors
They’re doors from SDR Motorsports. Badass doors. I loved them!
Hey I have a turbo s and I'm planning replace the ball joint may I ask what is u opinion about kryptonite ball joint? Are bigger than the stock ones? Or just are better for the warranty? Thanks
Well, it all depends on your type of riding and your setup to be honest. I like the Kryptonite ball joints but I haven’t had the best of luck with them. If you’re willing to splurge a little I recommend getting the RCV 300m balljoints, Keller ball joints, or even the LM UTV ones. I run RCV and haven’t had any issues at all. I’ve heard a lot of good things about Keller, but don’t have any ext with them. Hope that helps.
@@STOKED2SHRED2 ok I got u thanks man
Off topic but mannn give me your honest opinion on the km3 vs tensor regulator
The KM3 was such a crappy tire to race on. I blew at least one every race. If not, 2 or 3. The traction from the tensor was a huge improvement too! But I don’t run the regulator’s I run a DSR33. The older regulators that have a mud tread pattern was a bit on the heavy side because it was a DOT tire. The new one is supposed to be modeled after the DSR33 (Desert Series Race) which is their race tire. I’ve heard a lot of good things about them so far. I have a buddy that races on a set actually.
Id like to see a comparison of the HD Polaris bearings (3515090) vs the Kryptonite ones..
So I just picked up a set of Polaris HD bearings and swapped them out for the Kryptonite ones that I’ve been blowing through for quite some time now. I’m not sure how to do a “comparison” video because the outside of each bearings look the same I guess you could say, but all I can really do is put these new HD bearings to the test to see how long they last compared to the Kryptonite ones. 🤷🏻♂️
@@STOKED2SHRED2 so let us know how it goes for long term! 👍🏼
I took my 2021 pro xp 4 seater out last night and everything seemed fine for about an hour. my machine has 650 miles on it and about 35 total hours and now I have a loud clunking in the rear on the driver side that you can definitely hear no matter the speed when going over any bumps and you can feel it in the floor boards as well. I parked it and rock the machine side to side and can hear the clunking. I push on the top of the rear tire and can feel almost what I would describe as a pop feeling. Do you think it’s the bearing or possibly something else. Sorry for the long post just trying to figure this out.
What size wheel are you running and what’s the offset? Great video!
Thank you so much, I’m running a 15” wheel with 5+2 offset I’m this video. I’m currently running a 5+1 offset on a set of Method Race Wheels.
If it is a sealed bearing does that mean I can’t grease it?
Yes you can still grease it. The seal is just on the outer part of the bearing which is just a dust seal to keep dirt and debris out. The center of the bearing is still open and allows you to grease it.
So I believe im having the same issue on my 2021 Turbo s. If I steer side to side at slow speeds or pulling into my garage it pops and clunks. In 4x4 its worse. Think its my bearings as well?
Yes I’m more than sure that’s the case. A check that you can do is when your car is in the garage or even out on the trail go up and grab the top of your front tire on either side and give it a good push and pull using your knees and arms and if it clunks or makes a sound. 99% sure it’s your wheel bearings. That’s why mine did for the longest time before I switched bearings.
At slow speeds whether I’m backing up or unloading it from the trailer, whatever it may be the front end would pop, click and clunk. I thought it was something a bit worse than just a bearing, but it seemed to fix my issue and now it doesn’t make any noise at all.
@@STOKED2SHRED2 Yep slow speeds its worse and on pavement. Just pulling into garage it does it. I heard it was a big problem on the Pro xp's not so much on the turbo s but still happens. Its under warranty (not even two months old and 450 miles) so ill have them do it in case front end goes out they dont blame it on the new bearings. I don't like their fix which is basically retorquing the axle nut with thread locker or something.
@@STOKED2SHRED2 Im gonna do that when I get off work. Hope I hear it cause initially I thought it was the rear end or trans. I feel it in the floorboard.
@@mikem2915 Oh totally, you can feel it in the steering wheel too. I though it was my steering at first until I started doing the pull on the tire trick. Just pull on it with a good amount of force.
So Polaris’ Fox or “warranty” fix is to remove the old bearing add loctite and reinstall the old bearing. The stock Polaris bearings aren’t sealed like these Kryptonite ones are. Plus they’re way stronger!!!
I don't guess there is any way to grease these
You can. There’s products out there that you can buy that will grease these bearings. Unfortunately there’s a fine line between too much grease and not enough. It’s best to stay on top of the grease to prevent any potential wear, but I honestly just swap them out at any sign of noise or play.
Great job! Great video!
Thank you so much. I appreciate you tuning in!
Just so you know your supposed to use bearing retaining compound....not blue locktight blue locktight will break free at a much lower temp...use locktight brand green bearing retainer
Yup, you’re 100% correct. I think I even mentioned that in my video. Blue is all I had and couldn’t find green so it’s just what I went with.
Subscribed #999! Awesome tool, will check them out for my X3 for sure.
Awesome!!! Thanks for subscribing. 🙌🏻 Check them out and let me know if you ever have any questions!
Am I the only one bothered by the fact that these rigs cost $25,000 and you have to do this to them when you first get them or they break later on I don't get it for the amount of money you spend you should not have to be worrying about these problems
You are completely not wrong at all… For the price of these we shouldn’t have to fix dumb things such as this, I will 100% agree with you there. But in the same cases as small recalls in let’s say a pickup truck, or any car you buy off the production line there’s going to be slight mistakes in manufacturing, it just happens… In this case from what I understand is Polaris knows about this issue and I guess it’s not a big enough problem to create a recall about it since it doesn’t or can’t cause any harm to anyone other than the car itself. But personally I would much rather run these Kryptonite bearings because they’re sealed, much stronger, and will last 100x longer than OEM. I say it’s a great upgrade if you ask me!
Fact is polaris knew there was an issue and wouldn't do a recall.
That is absolutely correct. They wanted you to buy new parts to fix the problem. A new OEM knuckle is not cheap and on top
Of that you need to buy new wheel bearings!
95% of your problems could've been solved with a $15 bearing greaser
The $15 bearing doesn’t remove the dirt and sand that’s already in the bearings, it just masks only one of the issues. Replace them with lifetime warranty sealed bearings, with tighter tolerances that are wayyyy stronger than OEM and boom, problem solved for good. 👍🏼
Plus the bearing had to be removed anyway, to solve the popping sound which is caused by the bearing moving around in the knuckle. The Polaris “fix” is to remove the bearing from the knuckle and add lock-tite, then reinstall.
Once u add grease to sand and dirt, it just helps wear it out faster. Unless u can clean out the dirt first and repack, that would be the way. But who has time to fiddle with shit bearings
Polaris uses shit bearings on they're snowmobiles. I dont even bother cleaning and regreasing, just buy a sleeve of 10 and replace them every fall for 30$
The content was good but you could shave half the video off if the whole thing wasn't and ad. Hope they are paying you a bunch to waste our time with that.
Unfortunately nobody is paying me a dime to make any of these videos. I showcase these products because I stand behind the product or the companies themselves. Simply because I go in depth or maybe the ease of using a certain product doesn’t mean it’s an ad. I apologize if I gave you that impression because it wasn’t my intention. I guess that’s why they created the fast forward feature 👍🏼
@@STOKED2SHRED2 I don't really mean to be rude by it, but it is criticism, so there is only being so nice... It takes a bunch of work to put these videos together, and not stutter, or have dead air, get things in frame and focus, etc.. You are doing a pretty good job.
But just as feed back I ended up skipping a lot due to not getting to the point.