Its super easy! a lot of people are just using spray foam after the cut the door too. No table saw needed on that one but it can potentially be messier
Anything should work as long as it is there to keep it held down. I wouldnt use anything like packing tape or scotch tape. Frog tape, Blue tape, white tape should all suffice. The sharpness of the blade and speed of the cut play a factor in it too. But general rule of thumb that I work by is that the tape is usually good enough.
@@thomasbarton795I’m removing 1” from the bottom of a door to a room that has no return path to the HVAC intake. The room is too cold in the winter and too hot in the summer.
All I was doing was cutting off the 1/8 inch face on each side of the cut piece so that the block fits back into the hollow part of the door. Basically set it so that it was the width of a saw blade
It could if someone smacked their foot on the bottom of it. You want some sort of backer on it. If you don’t have the nail gun and table saw, you can put spray insulation in and cut it off after it dries for the support
The problem with this way, while fast, is that you end up taking out 2 inches of the door and might end up with a gap too big for most flooring. There's another way of doing this that's more laborious but will get you a smaller gap. Take a utility knife and carefully separate the glue holding the bottom rail from the veneer panel and ease it out. Then you can cut however much you want from the door and just glue and slide the rail back in. I did this just to get an extra 1/2" off a door that was almost touching the finished tile.
I dont get the difference in your explanation of cut error. Are you saying that by leaving the bottom rail on and cutting is more risky than removing the rail first and then cut?
Door trimming 101, you don't just cut a huge chunk from the bottom, you trim equally from top and bottom or left and right, otherwise you end up in this situation where you're messing around having to put the core back in.
I disagree. With prehung doors, if you cut the top, the hinges are still going to mount in the same spot. You’ll just have a gap between the jamb and the door up top. If it were a slab door you could do what you suggested before you router in the hinge locations
Well considering it’s my door on my rental property it’ll be okay. Also you’ll never see the nails because once you caulk and paint it, they’re basically invisible. I also had 8 doors to hang that day so I didn’t have the time to gather up 24 clamps and wait until the next day for the glue to dry. Work smarter not harder! 😁
@@petersmith3225 because he doesn't need to. Don't be a idiot. He says in the video he didn't have clamps so he was just gonna use nails and caulk to cover those nails. It's his own door so he could do whatever tf he wants with it. You'd be surprised how many people rig shit up when they realize they don't have every tool at their immediate disposal. I watched this video and used common (which it clearly isn't so common) sense and will be using clamps.
Excellent explanation and demonstration!
You’re the best!
Thanks!
Barry
Straight to the point!! Thank you!!!!
I didn't know about the solid core. I'm replacing an interior garage entryway door. Definitely think I can tackle it now.
Its super easy! a lot of people are just using spray foam after the cut the door too. No table saw needed on that one but it can potentially be messier
@obrosrestoration
When cutting down a painted door would you use painters tape or simple masking tape to keep the door from splintering?
Anything should work as long as it is there to keep it held down. I wouldnt use anything like packing tape or scotch tape. Frog tape, Blue tape, white tape should all suffice. The sharpness of the blade and speed of the cut play a factor in it too.
But general rule of thumb that I work by is that the tape is usually good enough.
I thought you did a great job explaining things. Thank you👍🏾
This seems to work and was pretty straight forward . Easy .good to know as i will be fitting door fir first time
It's no wonder you have almost NO comments. You're a quick and dirty kind of craftsman.
lol love to see it!
2” ? What flooring are you putting down…Block paving?? 😂
Exactly…
He wants his cat to be able to go into room when the door is closed.
What kind of circular saw blade do I need so the wood doesn't splinter?
2 inches on the bottom is a big gap. What thickness flooring are you putting in ?
Not really if you’re installing carpet. A good carpet and pad will be 1 - 1.25” thick. Only leaving .75 -1” gap at bottom.
@@matthyslip a 1" gap is huge... Difference between an engineer and a tradesmen eh
@@thomasbarton795 1/2- 3/4 gap would be my preferred size
@@thomasbarton795I’m removing 1” from the bottom of a door to a room that has no return path to the HVAC intake. The room is too cold in the winter and too hot in the summer.
Does Home Depot let you rent this tool? I need to trim door but don’t have the tools
The easiest way I found on filling the bottom of the door is expanding foam. Then trim it off
Is it possible to narrow the door the same way as you shortens the bottom
Yes I have
Could you go into more detail on what/how you are cutting the bottom using the table saw.
All I was doing was cutting off the 1/8 inch face on each side of the cut piece so that the block fits back into the hollow part of the door. Basically set it so that it was the width of a saw blade
whenever i cut doors down I get chipping. how do you prevent that? ty
New saw blade and put painters tape on the bottom to minimize the blowout are what I have done in the past
Would it hurt anything if you just left the bottom open?
It could if someone smacked their foot on the bottom of it. You want some sort of backer on it. If you don’t have the nail gun and table saw, you can put spray insulation in and cut it off after it dries for the support
@@RelocatingToClevelandmakes sense. Thanks!
I love this job well done 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks! 🍻
good job!
Having trouble cutting my HC door with my electric ryobi…. Stops about 6 inches in… any idea?
Maybe bad blade or you’re pushing too hard. It happens to me sometimes, I have to baby mine. I like the wired ones better
@@RelocatingToCleveland going to try a new blade. Haven’t changed it in about a year lol. Should be able to cut one Hc door electric or not ha
Throw the CRYobi in the trash and buy a Milwaukee saw.
good video very fast and profecional
Thanks for the tip. I'll subscribe.
So nailed door 😢
The problem with this way, while fast, is that you end up taking out 2 inches of the door and might end up with a gap too big for most flooring.
There's another way of doing this that's more laborious but will get you a smaller gap. Take a utility knife and carefully separate the glue holding the bottom rail from the veneer panel and ease it out. Then you can cut however much you want from the door and just glue and slide the rail back in. I did this just to get an extra 1/2" off a door that was almost touching the finished tile.
I dont get the difference in your explanation of cut error. Are you saying that by leaving the bottom rail on and cutting is more risky than removing the rail first and then cut?
Perfect thank you
Thanks
you had me till you put nails threw the face of the door...
two from each end much better option
Thank u
I’m working on shortening my doors, because of carpet I installed..
It’s a pain but knowing how to do it can save (and possibly make) you a lot of money!
I just use a planer and rehang the door 16 times to see if it still rubs😂
😂
I like that saw . Can I have it? I need to cut a door. Don’t be geeedy
Clamps every time for me just saying dry in 15 minutes
Door trimming 101, you don't just cut a huge chunk from the bottom, you trim equally from top and bottom or left and right, otherwise you end up in this situation where you're messing around having to put the core back in.
I disagree. With prehung doors, if you cut the top, the hinges are still going to mount in the same spot. You’ll just have a gap between the jamb and the door up top.
If it were a slab door you could do what you suggested before you router in the hinge locations
LoL, go do it then. Send pics 😅
Nice work. I do mine like this also.
th-cam.com/video/FW7OCNZ1VzA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=nQYSe88DWWT8pIHW
Easy if you have the tools to do it , show us how without proper electrical tools
Just throw some pixie dust on it and place it under your pillow before you go to bed. When you wake up it will magically be the correct size.
Why would you drive nails into the bottom of a person's door. Horrible! Why don't you have proper tools for a job! Ouch!
Well considering it’s my door on my rental property it’ll be okay. Also you’ll never see the nails because once you caulk and paint it, they’re basically invisible. I also had 8 doors to hang that day so I didn’t have the time to gather up 24 clamps and wait until the next day for the glue to dry.
Work smarter not harder! 😁
Bad video
Anyone watching this video would of using nails going to do video why not do one door the right way
@@petersmith3225 because he doesn't need to. Don't be a idiot. He says in the video he didn't have clamps so he was just gonna use nails and caulk to cover those nails. It's his own door so he could do whatever tf he wants with it. You'd be surprised how many people rig shit up when they realize they don't have every tool at their immediate disposal. I watched this video and used common (which it clearly isn't so common) sense and will be using clamps.
@@petersmith3225 Brad nails a little caulk. then paint. will never be able to see the nails. Doesn't hurt a thing!!
🤔🤣🤦🏼♂️👎🏼