Thank You!!! Finally an answer regarding which is which by rule. Closest to engine - Low. Finicky litle carburetors.. One minute in everything changes again.. I think this is important make small changes one per minute.
First video I found that actually says which direction is lean and rich. Most other videos: "HERE IS THE BEST WAY, YOU GOTTA BUY THIS TOOL, FIDDLE WITH IT UNTIL IT SOUNDS RIGHT, LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE!!!" Very good video, thanks!
Great video! Is there a baseline setting for both of these screws so that I can start at the recommended setting then modify from there? For example, possibly all the way closed on each then back off one full turn each... TY!
Yep. In general (for all two strokes engines), you can bottom the screw out (lightly or you can damage the seat inside the carb!!!) and then back it off 1 to 1.25 turns. That is a good baseline for almost every machine...
Something I learned a LONG time ago - like 50 years ago - is that the right tool is CRITICAL for ANY to job to go right - period. GET the proper tool for the task or else you'll truly regret it!
Mostly true! One counterpoint...I have a good friend who grew up on Sark (tiny island near UK and France) and since he grew up with never having the right tool, his ingenuity was awesome and he often always found a way to solve any problem...really love that about him...
@@35andRetired I hear you - most of us have "made" on-the-fly modified tools for a task at some time. Some managed to work fine, others . . .not so much. I've seen many of these small engine bits destroyed by a dude jamming the WRONG thing in the wrong place. Then they gripe about it, duh!
Try tightening down the screws all the way in. Don’t torque them too hard or you can damage the “seat” inside the carb. Then back them off 1 turn and try to adjust from there
A good starting place is about 1 turn out (for almost all machines). Thinking in terms of worst case, consider that a too far out screw is too rich and therefore fouls the plug, so one could always start too far in (too lean). Pull and pull and pull on the starter rope but slowly back the screw out 1/8 turn at a time until it starts...that gives you your "absolute most lean" condition under which the engine will start, then make it richer from there. On the H screw, you can again start very lean (all the way in) and just snap the throttle quickly. When too lean, it will stall but you can again back it off in 1/8 increments and "see and feel" the difference the mixture makes with each throttle snap....hope that makes sense!
@@35andRetiredso I found this extremely useful to get my be carb to start but the issue I’m having is that it only runs at the mid choke position, if I close the choke all the way itit dies immediately. Sorry to hijack am old comment but was hoping you might give some insight
@@mikereed772 No need to say sorry! Simply stated...if a machine only runs (or only runs well) with the choke on/choke partially on, that means it is running lean. A machine can run lean for many reasons but the most common is an issue in a carb or a mistuned carb. You can try loosening the carb adjustment screw, which will richen the mixture, but if that doesn't clear it up, the next step would be carb disassembly. I have some other videos on that so hopefully they will walk you through it! Feel free to post back with details or follow up questions...I dont mind.
It might have to do with the tuning of the carb but also remember that blowers are always “under 100% load” whereas chainsaws, string trimmers, etc have no load until they come into contact with wood, grass, etc. blowers never “make contact”. Hope that makes sense…
Wow never knew this. I also wonder that. Thanks for him to ask and you to answer his question… I’ve got a 150bt the carb is the issue. I only see an idle screw and what I think is a high screw..? Not really sure. And noticed all the replacement carbs are the little red choke tabs and not the blue pull choke tabs will the red choke carb work on that he newer versions…?
@@35andRetired kewl… I got mine running great but the new primer bulb is fighting like hell for some reason. Maybe the new check valve is gunked up from the box?!
Think you were looking for the word "stoichiometric" at the first. If only that word would get you a large drink of your choice..... Your video is made better because you are tweaking and talking about your observations. Thank you for this.
Do you have a tach for single cylinder engines? I'd like to know the idle RPM and full running RPM once you set at the sweet spot. Thanks for your time/video!
Thank You!!! Finally an answer regarding which is which by rule. Closest to engine - Low. Finicky litle carburetors.. One minute in everything changes again.. I think this is important make small changes one per minute.
You’re welcome!!
First video I found that actually says which direction is lean and rich. Most other videos: "HERE IS THE BEST WAY, YOU GOTTA BUY THIS TOOL, FIDDLE WITH IT UNTIL IT SOUNDS RIGHT, LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE!!!"
Very good video, thanks!
You’re welcome, and thank you for the feedback. I decided I would never ever ask for like or subscribe. I hate being asked by others.
Great description and video. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Best explanation Ive heard yet
Thanks so much!!
Very good video.. very clear and understanding the tool.... thanks.. it helped me adjust to the right tune on my husqvarna 125b after a muffler mod.
You’re welcome!!
What muffler mod did you do!?
Outstanding presentation. Thank you!👍🏻🇺🇸
Glad you enjoyed it
Wow, you are great at explaining...
Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Best video ever. You are natural. Very gifted 👍keep up the good work
Wow, thank you
your description for the blower was awesome...wish we hadn't taken a side trip into the saw though...but otherwise amazing.
Glad it was helpful. Fair point!
Great video! Is there a baseline setting for both of these screws so that I can start at the recommended setting then modify from there? For example, possibly all the way closed on each then back off one full turn each... TY!
Yep. In general (for all two strokes engines), you can bottom the screw out (lightly or you can damage the seat inside the carb!!!) and then back it off 1 to 1.25 turns. That is a good baseline for almost every machine...
@@35andRetired Perfect and TY!
Something I learned a LONG time ago - like 50 years ago - is that the right tool is CRITICAL for ANY to job to go right - period. GET the proper tool for the task or else you'll truly regret it!
Mostly true! One counterpoint...I have a good friend who grew up on Sark (tiny island near UK and France) and since he grew up with never having the right tool, his ingenuity was awesome and he often always found a way to solve any problem...really love that about him...
@@35andRetired I hear you - most of us have "made" on-the-fly modified tools for a task at some time. Some managed to work fine, others . . .not so much. I've seen many of these small engine bits destroyed by a dude jamming the WRONG thing in the wrong place. Then they gripe about it, duh!
@@timwalsh715 very true!
I already messed up with both screws an I cant get it back to where I can start the blower. I think I need to replace the Carburetor.
Try tightening down the screws all the way in. Don’t torque them too hard or you can damage the “seat” inside the carb. Then back them off 1 turn and try to adjust from there
Great info ! To tune the carb , what is a good starting place to open your Hi and Low screws at from fully seated , on that blower ?
A good starting place is about 1 turn out (for almost all machines). Thinking in terms of worst case, consider that a too far out screw is too rich and therefore fouls the plug, so one could always start too far in (too lean). Pull and pull and pull on the starter rope but slowly back the screw out 1/8 turn at a time until it starts...that gives you your "absolute most lean" condition under which the engine will start, then make it richer from there. On the H screw, you can again start very lean (all the way in) and just snap the throttle quickly. When too lean, it will stall but you can again back it off in 1/8 increments and "see and feel" the difference the mixture makes with each throttle snap....hope that makes sense!
@@35andRetiredso I found this extremely useful to get my be carb to start but the issue I’m having is that it only runs at the mid choke position, if I close the choke all the way itit dies immediately. Sorry to hijack am old comment but was hoping you might give some insight
@@mikereed772 No need to say sorry! Simply stated...if a machine only runs (or only runs well) with the choke on/choke partially on, that means it is running lean. A machine can run lean for many reasons but the most common is an issue in a carb or a mistuned carb. You can try loosening the carb adjustment screw, which will richen the mixture, but if that doesn't clear it up, the next step would be carb disassembly. I have some other videos on that so hopefully they will walk you through it! Feel free to post back with details or follow up questions...I dont mind.
@@35andRetired I appreciate you responding so fast, I’m the novice for sure in this, thanks for that, I’ll dig a little deeper
My guy! 👍👍👍
:)
Why do backpack gas leaf blowers sound quite like a 4 stroke?
It might have to do with the tuning of the carb but also remember that blowers are always “under 100% load” whereas chainsaws, string trimmers, etc have no load until they come into contact with wood, grass, etc. blowers never “make contact”. Hope that makes sense…
Wow never knew this. I also wonder that. Thanks for him to ask and you to answer his question…
I’ve got a 150bt the carb is the issue. I only see an idle screw and what I think is a high screw..? Not really sure. And noticed all the replacement carbs are the little red choke tabs and not the blue pull choke tabs will the red choke carb work on that he newer versions…?
how many revs should the idle screw set at?... and has anyone posted a tune from scratch vid? I'm only getting "fine" tuning videos.
Howdy! Each machine has a different and specified Rpm range for idle. I’ll make one of those !!
@@35andRetired kewl… I got mine running great but the new primer bulb is fighting like hell for some reason. Maybe the new check valve is gunked up from the box?!
What about adjusting low valve?
Do you mean the screw that controls the fuel and air mixture idle or that idle RPM?
@@35andRetiredyes
Think you were looking for the word "stoichiometric" at the first. If only that word would get you a large drink of your choice..... Your video is made better because you are tweaking and talking about your observations. Thank you for this.
Thanks for your encouraging comment!
Do you have a tach for single cylinder engines? I'd like to know the idle RPM and full running RPM once you set at the sweet spot. Thanks for your time/video!
Yes, I do, I actually just uploaded a new short video to TH-cam on my channel for you. Check it out and I hope it’s helpful.
Excellent presentation !!!
Many thanks!