Ordered my adapter on a Tuesday and received it Saturday. It took me a little over 2 hours to complete the repair. More than half of that was starter R&R. Top starter bolt requires perfect socket geometry. I cleaned and cleaned to make sure the exterior of the the oil pan was spotless and smooth. I did use Permatex black RTV because i had it in the shop. Once installed, i let the RTV set up for 2.5 hours before putting my new oil back in. Drove it the next morning, and it was dry as a bone. Product works and saved a ton of money and labor. Thanks for your piece of engineering.
Well that explains why I’m losing a lot of oil in a short time I’m pretty good about finding oil leaks but this one had me stumped. 99 F250 super with 418,000 on her have this truck now for 17 years was my daily driver until oil loss. Thanks for the vid. Have to get me that adapter.
Doing mine right now. Got your kit yesterday. I've been a mechanic for the last 24 years, 5 days a week. When I let that old adapter fall into the oil pan I got a sick feeling in my stomach LOL letting that drop into the pan goes against everything I know. This truck is my baby I've had it a long long time. It's in 100% mint condition, so I went back and forth for a while deciding to pull the engine or use your kit. The last thing I want to do after work or on the weekend is work on a car, so I got your kit. I did a lot of research before I bought your kit and I haven't found anyone say that it caused internal engine damage. But I'd just like to hear it one more time right from the horse's mouth. Have you had any cases of someone having the old adapter ruining an engine? If you say yes but it's one in a million I'll still leave your kit on my truck. Just want to know for my own peace of mind. Every time I drive this truck from now on I'm going to be thinking about that old adapter floating around in the oil pan. I get what you're saying about the weight of the oil keeping it at the bottom, plus the baffles in the oil pan help, but even still it just makes me cringe thinking about it. Thanks for a great product, it's really an ingenious, simple solution to an otherwise huge project. AS LONG AS THAT OLD PIECE STAYS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE OIL PAN THAT IS!!! LOL!
There has never been a single factual report of engine damage from the OEM part being in the bottom of the pan. The part SINKS IN OIL, and the viscosity of engine oil keeps it from moving around much, even on the bottom of the pan. It is too thick to get between the oil pump pickup and the bottom of the oil pan. It simply has nowhere to go and just sits there doing nothing. A person would need to do something beyond extraordinary for that piece to somehow make it back through the hole in the windage tray (against the forces of gravity and the viscosity of the engine oil) and continue far enough above the windage tray to get into moving engine parts. The kind of extraordinary that we would all want to see on video, something that would make for a seriously viral video, and likely still not be believable. Considering the number of adapters on the road, and the now MILLIONS of miles on them, it is very safe to say that if it is installed properly, and the instructions followed, there is nothing to worry about.
@@StrictlyDiesel Thanks for the reply. I am a 100% believer now. It's been almost 2 weeks and I don't even think about it anymore. It was just a strange feeling letting that piece drop in there at first. But I am sold! Thanks again for a great product!
i just purchased this kit and am going to install it. ive been around these all my life and love them had the 7.3 idis and 6.9s to. 1st one of these ive ever installed great video. i aint worried about that in the bottom its on the bottom... i may make a video of the installed!!
1996 F350,7.3 powerstroke. I purchased one of the o-ring replacement kits and while trying to install it the wire brush that is supposed to allow you to finish the job slipped out and the part dropped into the pan. Since it is not magnetic all attemps to fish it out failed. The issue with the wire brush is that the dang thing got in the way of the the outside nut starting. Cost to R and R the engine, pull the pan is way beyond my budget. I found this video by accident and decided to try it. I installed it last week. Since I already had the starter off it took less than 2 hours to install. I took it on a trip of over 500 miles and it has performed flawlessly. I had a couple of issues during the install. First one was that I dropped the copper crush washer off ot the loose bolt and couldn't find it. I had to use a fiber washer off of a motorcycle carb repair and some black sealant and it seems to be working. Second issue is that I had a problem with getting it to seat against the pan. Since I cant see in the pan I believe that the part of the clamp assembly inside the pan as pointed down and hitting on a part of the pan keeping the outside part from seating properly. As I turned the captive bolt it popped into place. One thing I did do to try to make the install easier was to use a fine line magic marker to mark the captive bolt with a line on the plate so I could get it close to lining up. That worked like a charm and I lined it up and the other bolt slid in with no problem. I wish that I had seen this video before I tried the other repair it would have saved me hours of work.
If I would have known about this part before I had to pull my engine to get to it, then I wouldn’t be doing a full rebuild on my 7.3 right now. I told myself that if I had to unbolt the engine, then it was coming all the way out and getting rebuilt lol
For real... I was thinking about doing this until I found out you just leave the shit in your pan. I know it doesn't hurt anything but I still don't like that.
Update pls about part in oil pan it not gotta hurt at all ? Cuz I have same problem on that truck with customer… I did put new o ring and gasket marker n little tight big nut size n still leak but I believe when I do job the big nut was loose I think it vibrates and make the part like shaved or little dent
It doesn't "roll around in the pan" it's sitting submerged in heavy ass oil. It still moves I'm sure, but not much. Mine's been in there a year this month problem free. You could always pull your engine out and drop the pan to do it "the right way" but unless you're ready for a rebuild anyway who the hell would do that??
My main concern is aligning the non teflon taped bolt with the “backplate.” Is that particularly tricky, you didn’t have much trouble but under the truck, lighting meh, and not being a mechanic, have you heard of folks having issues or being unable to get the holes lined up and bolt to thread? Second concern, O loss, is the design decent enough to prevent a clumsy approach from allowing o ring to fall into oil pan? Seems like you’d have to try to work around the flange on the internal part but is that a threat? Thx! Great video and
Any advice for dipstick tube removal on a E350? The tube is mounted to an exhaust manifold stud in a difficult location opposed to the valve cover. I may end up cutting it and splicing it back together with a hose and a couple clamps.
Out of curiosity, Do you think it would be possible to crush the old dipstick adapter with vice grips enough to pull it out the hole? I'm sure youve tried.
I highly doubt that this could be done and I would be more concerned about the pliers chewing up the part and breaking off small sharp pieces into the pan while trying.
@@StrictlyDiesel right on... I wasn't sure how malleable that metal was, I have to do this repair and am looking for a solution. Probably will use your part. Thanks!
I can't say that we have tried it without draining the oil. It may be possible, but having oil in the pan will make it harder to hear the interior piece land in the sump, and may make it harder to see the interior piece with a mirror if you need to verify that it landed in the sump. I think it is best to wait and do it with the oil drained just to be sure that the install goes properly.
yes this is all very well if the oil pan is off, but what if you do not have the pan off, you cant have that bit of metal rolling around in the bottom of the sump.?? can you? I don't know. As to take that pan off, cost you dollars to have this job done like that, ps your lighting and photography was tip top
This part was designed specifically to prevent you from having to pull the engine and pull the oil pan. Nobody wants to do that if they don't have to. As for that "bit of metal rolling around", considering the fact that the OEM adapter sinks in engine oil and has the weight of 10+ quarts of viscous engine oil keeping it from moving around much, there is nothing to worry about there.
I have seen where some say to let it fall in the very back of the pan and some say to let it fall in the deep section of the pan as shown in this video. Which is the correct way? I have my dipstick adapter on the way to do this repair. Would greatly appreciate any feed back
My guess is that those saying to let it fall into the "very back" of the pan are just phrasing it differently and mean the same thing. You want the adapter in the BOTTOM of the deepest part of the pan, below the windage tray. If you follow the included instructions and this video, you will have done it correctly.
@@billmalec I don't recommend waiting for inertia to move it around, it's just far safer to make sure it makes it into the bottom of the sump during install.
@@billmalec we recommend using a mirror and flashlight in the directions. if the part stays on top of the windage tray, it remains close to the crankshaft and there is increased risk of contact. Once pushed down below the windage tray, it isn't coming back up. The hole in the windage tray is right below the adapter, so it generally falls right through, but it is best to make sure of it before installing the replacement.
The o-ring isn't enough to block the pickup tube so it is doubtful that it will cause any damage. We would always prefer to get it out of there if possible. You may find that it works its way to the drain plug area and that you can find it with a 90 degree piece of wire or something through the drain plug at the next oil change.
@@StrictlyDiesel there was a baffle plate or something at the drain plug could stick anything in there it didn't look like the one in your video im sure it's fine I have thoughts in my the oil ring getting gummed up in the crank bearings 😂
No. The only think you would apply to the back of the adapter is a 1/4" bead of RTV (between the o-rings) if your oil pan appears to have enough warpage to warrant some extra insurance.
Below is a link to the part on our website. Yes it's a much better option, less expensive and a permanent fix! www.strictlydiesel.com/product/2690/strictly-diesel-dipstick-adapter-repair-kit
Reach out to STP Diesel or Powerstroke Enginuities. Both are dealers for our parts, located in Houston and can give you a quote for installation. Thanks
Considering the fact that this part has nothing to do with oil pressure, there has to be something else going on. The oil pickup tube sits so close to the bottom of the pan that the OEM part that is left in the can can't get under it. The pickup tube has a screen, so even if you left the o-ring from the OEM adapter in the pan, it couldn't get drawn up into the tube and it isn't large enough to block any significant oil flow. I would be looking to get a mechanic to do a base engine oil pressure test, and also confirm what the oil pressure is doing with a real gauge in the same conditions that you are experiencing the problem. They may also want to look for signs of oil aeration. The oil pressure gauge on the dash is controlled by a pressure switch that is mounted in the top of the high pressure oil pump reservoir. If the cutting out and loss of oil pressure are related, that reservoir is losing enough oil volume/quality to interrupt the pressure supply to the rails in the heads that feed the injectors. This sounds like an oil supply issue. These trucks are getting old, and most have a bunch of miles as well. We've seen pickup tubes crack and cause oil pickup issues and oil quality issues (oil aeration). We've seen worn lube oil pump gears or damage to the aluminum front cover behind the lube oil pump that affects pumping ability. Best of luck getting is sorted out.
Yes. This is covered on our website and also in some of the other Q&A on this video I believe. It sinks to the bottom of the pan and has no place to go.
You would need to contact a shop you are interested in to find out. Shop labor is billed by the job, based on each shops hourly rate. They will be charging you to R&R the starter plus some amount of time for installling the adapter.
It depends on a number of things, from your comfort level and experience working on your truck to just how filthy the side of your oil pan is. I would say that it will be somewhere between 30 minutes and 2 hours, depending on how quickly you move, how much cleaning you do, etc. I suspect most people are done in 30-60 mins.
We do recommend draining the oil for this job, as it makes it easier to verify that the internal piece of the OEM adapter makes it to the lower sump as instructed. This is all covered in the full color instructions.
well worth the $300. to all the crybabies out there, this will eventually pay for itself when you're done losing a quart of oil every hundred miles. and it beats the hell out of having ford fix it...
It likely ends up in the pickup screen of the oil pickup tube. It isn't large enough to significantly obstruct flow, but it also isn't ideal to let it fall in.
No, the OEM adapter that is installed through the pan from the inside is not steel, and the pan is steel. The OEM part is some kind of cast pot metal junk.
@@StrictlyDiesel makes sense. I like this kit. Only concern is the old adapter piece being left in the pan. Has their been any issues from having it floating around in the oil pan?
@@kenxiong6830 None. It doesn't "float" anywhere, it sinks in oil and sits in the bottom of the sump, its movement distance and speed hampered by the weight and viscosity of the engine oil it is submerged in. As long as the directions are followed and the OEM piece is dropped into the LOWER SUMP (below the windage tray), there should never be any kind of problem. Based on the number of these out in trucks, there have got to be literally millions of miles on them by now.
sorry where can i find that adapter? The old oring fell inside the oil pan will it get sucked in the motor or clog anything? what a good idea for the adapter. this is awesome thanks so much!!!!!!
You can find the adapter here: www.strictlydiesel.com/category/172/73l-dipstick-leak-repair The o-ring probably won't cause any issues, as it can't pass through the screen in the oil pickup tube. It is still a good idea to get it out. If you drain the oil and then use a bent piece of wire, you can probably snag it off the bottom of the pan and pull it out the drain hole.
The direct link to purchase from us is in the description. We also have dealers all over the country that offer them. If you have a favorite local or internet diesel shop, check with them, good chance they offer it.
It's a great product,and it is $300 for this piece, but knockoffs of exact design are all over eBay for $50,and even come with instructions copied from Strictly Diesel's kit. I previously went the old route and replaced the original o-ring but after a short time (1-2 years) the new o-ring succumbs to the stresses and start leaking again. I bought a knock-off adapter kit off of eBay for $50 and everythging is identicle to the Strictly Diesel kit, EXCEPT the holes for catching the thread on the second screw will not align up with the knock-off piece and I can't for the life of me get the second screw started! After 3 days of fighting with this contraption I am resolved to buy the one from Stricktly Diesel and be done with this. I'm not obliged or aligned with SD in any way, I'm just trying to save someone else the frustration and downtime that I've incurred because of this "identical knock-off" piece of crap!
We would greatly appreciate it if you would purchase one of ours, because it actually benefits U.S. based businesses, U.S. employees, U.S. suppliers, etc. The chinese copies are violating multiple US patents and US trademarks. There is NO TECH SUPPORT available from ebay or amazon or the chinese copycats, they DO NOT CARE if you get it installed, just that you give them your money. And make no mistake the money is going to the Chinese govt, there are no independently owned manufacturing businesses in china, no individual human being is benefitting, just a whole lot of sweatshop slaves being forced to make ripoff product to keep the sales channels full. Supporting this is simply incentivizing the continued theft of U.S. ideas by a regime that wants nothing more than to destroy America and our way of life!
Why would you leave old parts in the oil pan? That seems like a recipe for disaster, now if the repair is done with the oil pan off like shown here then of course you can just fish the old one out. But this video does not explain any of that, looks like a quality product, need a quality video explaining details
@@TheMonadnockShootist , maybe if you knew what is involved with "just removing the oil pan", you wouldn't make that comment. You MUST remove the engine to do that since the pan straddles the crossmember. If you get this done at FORD, it is easily several thousand dollars. If you are able to do this financially, I would have that sucker welded directly to the pan - never understood why FORD didn't do that in the first place.
As was covered by another comment, the entire reason this part was invented was to keep people from having to spend thousands in labor for a full engine R&R. There are some people that have managed to pull and reinstall the pan "in chassis", but this involves trying to reseal the pan using RTV while the engine continuously drips oil down onto the pan rail that needs to remain clean and dry for the RTV to cure and actually seal. Most of the time, this just ends up leaking worse later and requiring a proper fix. As for the part in the pan, there is nowhere for it to go. It drops into a small opening and lays in the sump below the windage tray. It sinks in engine oil and has the weight of roughly 10+ quarts of viscous engine oil keeping it sitting on the floor of the sump. If by some crazy act of stuntman driving you managed to actually get that adapter to come off the bottom of the pan, the chances of getting it to travel vertically the 6"+ AND make it through the small hole in the windage tray to contact the crankshaft would likely be slimmer than getting struck by lightning while holding a winning lotto ticket.
Almost as painful (or PIANFUL as you put it) as people on the internet needing to unnecessarily find things wrong with other peoples videos while failing to spell check the criticism they've written. This video was not shot with the pan installed on a truck. The pan was sitting on a table, making it a bit more awkward to work with (it wasn't secured to an engine, it was moving around freely). The purpose of the video was not to show proper tool usage, it was to show proper installation of a part in a way that answers common questions from customers. Sorry that concept eluded you, but thanks for the nice comment anyway.
JFC! $300!! You're out of your damn minds! I appreciate supply/demand/low production numbers driving up individual costs, but that's just stupid. It'd still be expensive at 1/3 the price.
So you paid material cost for your smart phone, right? Got that thing for $100 with all the latest tech while the rest of us paid $750-1000? Do you go to a restaurant and ask to only be charged 1/3 the menu price for your meal? You buy your clothes for just what the cotton cost? Comments like this always amuse me because they neglect to take into account so many factors. Yes, the cost of the raw material is quite a bit less than the retail price of the part, that's how business works. The retail price has to factor in every bit of labor to get those various chunks of raw material into a finished part, assemble them and package them. It has to cover research and development costs, the costs of acquiring and maintaining/defending a patent, product liability insurance costs, marketing costs and every other cost involved in running a business while still leaving a profit for the business. The "value" of a product doesn't come from the retail price, it comes from what it provides to the customer. Maybe you don't see value in this product because you don't mind pulling the engine to change out the factory warped adapter, or maybe you are a capable welder that can install the welded solution to this problem. That's great, but it isn't 99% of the truck owning population. For many people, the only other good option for this problem is to take their truck to a shop and spend a LOT more money paying to have the engine pulled out and the oil pan removed to swap out the factory part. They will barely have any parts cost, but he typical 18-20 hours of labor to R&R the engine will far exceed the cost of our simple part. For many people, this part is beyond "worth it" because they can fix their problem in their driveway in less than an hour, using basic hand tools and at a fraction of the cost of having a shop fix it for them. Their truck doesn't have to be out of service, they are fixed on their own schedule, and the part is serviceable later if necessary. Based on the feedback we have gotten from customers over the numerous years that we have been selling this part, it is more than worth it to them. Sorry you don't feel the same, but glad you took the time to tell everyone how you felt anyway.
@@StrictlyDiesel That's kind of my point, actually. My issue isn't that you have $10 worth of aluminum, a couple screws & O-rings into the part, it's that you know the alternative is pulling the engine so people basically have no choice but to pay whatever price you decide it's going to cost. Admit it or not, you're price gouging every person who buys one, simply because you can. And you're right, you can. You'll also rationalize it however you want- obviously- even if it's as nonsensical as comparing a dipstick holder to a cellphone. Sincerely, I commend you for coming up with & making available a DIY solution to this problem, but from my perspective, it's unethical to take advantage of people simply because you're in the position to do so- and that *IS* precisely what you're doing. You're no better than a scalper charging 50x the face value of a ticket or anyone else who takes advantage of a situation to rip people off. I have NO issue with you making money off of your products, we just seem to have a very different concept of what would be a reasonable markup.
@@bbrown9763 Wow, compared to a scalper charging 50x. This goes to show you that you have no clue about the supply chain situation with this part. That's OK, the details really aren't anyone elses business. Simply put, we don't hold the patent or actually manufacture the part. The person that does has an entirely different business to run and has no desire to be in the auto parts retail business, deal with customers, credit cards, shipping, etc. As such, he produces them for us exclusively, with our name on them. We write the instructions, provide the extra Ford o-rings, handle all of the packaging, shipping, tech support, everything. While you may think this part costs us $10 in material, that isn't the case. Just like a cell phone (not a nonsensical example at all), there is a manufacturer that doesn't sell to the public. Then there is a middle man (us in this case). The mfg charges us what he needs to make his profit, and the middle man (us in this case) has to charge what we do based on our additional work and materials, labor, shipping costs, profit, tech support, etc. Since the part carries our name, we also get to pay for the product liability. Its all good, you don't know all of the numbers or specific situations. If we had CNC machines in house and our cost was as low as you think, we would charge less. That isn't the case. Have a nice day.
@@StrictlyDiesel You're effectively stealing from people. You can write as much bullshit as you want, but at the end of the day, you're stealing from people.
@@bbrown9763 This is pure gold, thanks for the laugh. I'm sorry we don't operate our business like Oprah Winfrey and just hand out free parts to everyone. I'm sorry you apparently don't understand how all of the costs of producing and delivering a product to market affect the retail price, nor do you have any clue how much we actually make on this product. I'm really sorry that you don't actually know what the word "stealing" means. Based on average profit margins of common commodity items in this world, you must walk through every store and look at every product and think you are being stolen from.
The ONLY way to remove the old part is to pull the engine and pull the pan. Since the oil pan has a windage tray with a relatively small hole and the old part sinks in engine oil and has 10+ quarts of engine oil keeping it from going anywhere at any given time, there is no risk to leaving it there.
@@markchavez7707 weld on adapter fix for $30 for one, Diesel orings kit is like $50 or so for 2 that's with just a simple Google search, and the cheap one doesn't leave parts in oil pan it simply replaces existing oring and if it's warped the adapter from the inside they recommend just plastering it with our RTV instead lol. Not saying any of these are better or not but he's right there is cheaper alternatives that may work without the $300 expense that a lot of people during a pandemic and not working can't afford to pay but I also understand when you have a patent and people ripping off your product and the way business works that charging more than what the raw materials is is just the way business works.
Why avoid? It's a good product just a bit high. There's nothing nefarious going on here. If it's too much, don't buy it. I plan not to but that doesn't mean it's a bad product from a bad company.
@@DaveofAllTrades75 There's ALWAYS something cheaper, but you'll figure out one day with enough life experience, you get what you pay for. "Plaster it with RTV" ?????? Go plaster YOUR truck together with RTV 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Ordered my adapter on a Tuesday and received it Saturday. It took me a little over 2 hours to complete the repair. More than half of that was starter R&R. Top starter bolt requires perfect socket geometry. I cleaned and cleaned to make sure the exterior of the the oil pan was spotless and smooth. I did use Permatex black RTV because i had it in the shop. Once installed, i let the RTV set up for 2.5 hours before putting my new oil back in. Drove it the next morning, and it was dry as a bone. Product works and saved a ton of money and labor. Thanks for your piece of engineering.
Sounds like a smooth install and glad you were happy with the kit!
Well that explains why I’m losing a lot of oil in a short time I’m pretty good about finding oil leaks but this one had me stumped. 99 F250 super with 418,000 on her have this truck now for 17 years was my daily driver until oil loss. Thanks for the vid. Have to get me that adapter.
Doing mine right now. Got your kit yesterday. I've been a mechanic for the last 24 years, 5 days a week. When I let that old adapter fall into the oil pan I got a sick feeling in my stomach LOL letting that drop into the pan goes against everything I know. This truck is my baby I've had it a long long time. It's in 100% mint condition, so I went back and forth for a while deciding to pull the engine or use your kit. The last thing I want to do after work or on the weekend is work on a car, so I got your kit. I did a lot of research before I bought your kit and I haven't found anyone say that it caused internal engine damage. But I'd just like to hear it one more time right from the horse's mouth. Have you had any cases of someone having the old adapter ruining an engine? If you say yes but it's one in a million I'll still leave your kit on my truck. Just want to know for my own peace of mind. Every time I drive this truck from now on I'm going to be thinking about that old adapter floating around in the oil pan. I get what you're saying about the weight of the oil keeping it at the bottom, plus the baffles in the oil pan help, but even still it just makes me cringe thinking about it. Thanks for a great product, it's really an ingenious, simple solution to an otherwise huge project. AS LONG AS THAT OLD PIECE STAYS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE OIL PAN THAT IS!!! LOL!
There has never been a single factual report of engine damage from the OEM part being in the bottom of the pan. The part SINKS IN OIL, and the viscosity of engine oil keeps it from moving around much, even on the bottom of the pan. It is too thick to get between the oil pump pickup and the bottom of the oil pan. It simply has nowhere to go and just sits there doing nothing. A person would need to do something beyond extraordinary for that piece to somehow make it back through the hole in the windage tray (against the forces of gravity and the viscosity of the engine oil) and continue far enough above the windage tray to get into moving engine parts. The kind of extraordinary that we would all want to see on video, something that would make for a seriously viral video, and likely still not be believable. Considering the number of adapters on the road, and the now MILLIONS of miles on them, it is very safe to say that if it is installed properly, and the instructions followed, there is nothing to worry about.
@@StrictlyDiesel Thanks for the reply. I am a 100% believer now. It's been almost 2 weeks and I don't even think about it anymore. It was just a strange feeling letting that piece drop in there at first. But I am sold! Thanks again for a great product!
Just put a magnet on ur pan if ur worried. Then it won't go anywhere
@@ravenskaugrud8410 Doesn't work, the OEM part in the pan is not ferrous, it doesn't stick to a magnet.
Thanks for what you did
For a problem with 7.3. Great video.
i just purchased this kit and am going to install it. ive been around these all my life and love them had the 7.3 idis and 6.9s to. 1st one of these ive ever installed great video. i aint worried about that in the bottom its on the bottom... i may make a video of the installed!!
Definitely interested in ordering one for my F550 7.3
1996 F350,7.3 powerstroke.
I purchased one of the o-ring replacement kits and while trying to install it the wire brush that is supposed to allow you to finish the job slipped out and the part dropped into the pan. Since it is not magnetic all attemps to fish it out failed. The issue with the wire brush is that the dang thing got in the way of the the outside nut starting.
Cost to R and R the engine, pull the pan is way beyond my budget.
I found this video by accident and decided to try it.
I installed it last week. Since I already had the starter off it took less than 2 hours to install. I took it on a trip of over 500 miles and it has performed flawlessly.
I had a couple of issues during the install. First one was that I dropped the copper crush washer off ot the loose bolt and couldn't find it. I had to use a fiber washer off of a motorcycle carb repair and some black sealant and it seems to be working.
Second issue is that I had a problem with getting it to seat against the pan. Since I cant see in the pan I believe that the part of the clamp assembly inside the pan as pointed down and hitting on a part of the pan keeping the outside part from seating properly. As I turned the captive bolt it popped into place.
One thing I did do to try to make the install easier was to use a fine line magic marker to mark the captive bolt with a line on the plate so I could get it close to lining up. That worked like a charm and I lined it up and the other bolt slid in with no problem.
I wish that I had seen this video before I tried the other repair it would have saved me hours of work.
Sorry you had trouble with your initial attempt to repair the issue, but very glad you found success with our fix.
Damn these haters, if it works it works! Awesome video and the only one I could find on how to put it on! Thanks man 😎
You're welcome!
If I would have known about this part before I had to pull my engine to get to it, then I wouldn’t be doing a full rebuild on my 7.3 right now. I told myself that if I had to unbolt the engine, then it was coming all the way out and getting rebuilt lol
There isn't concern that the old dipstick adapter can come in contact with the crankshaft if it's free to move around inside the old pan?
I would think it would sit at the very bottom of the pan.just using logic but I also see your point ss well.
Throw a magnet on the bottom of your oil pan
@@jordanwismer3768 that part isn't ferrous. It won't stick to a magnet
theres a tray that sits between the crank and the bottom of the pan that i can slide around in but it wont jump out of the tray after it falls in
Nice, parts rolling around in the oil pan. Totally legit.
For real... I was thinking about doing this until I found out you just leave the shit in your pan. I know it doesn't hurt anything but I still don't like that.
This is how mechanics do it. And not any mechanics, Ford Master Mechanics.
Update pls about part in oil pan it not gotta hurt at all ? Cuz I have same problem on that truck with customer… I did put new o ring and gasket marker n little tight big nut size n still leak but I believe when I do job the big nut was loose I think it vibrates and make the part like shaved or little dent
It doesn't "roll around in the pan" it's sitting submerged in heavy ass oil. It still moves I'm sure, but not much.
Mine's been in there a year this month problem free.
You could always pull your engine out and drop the pan to do it "the right way" but unless you're ready for a rebuild anyway who the hell would do that??
@@carlspackler91 do you feel better about your crappy repair now?
My main concern is aligning the non teflon taped bolt with the “backplate.” Is that particularly tricky, you didn’t have much trouble but under the truck, lighting meh, and not being a mechanic, have you heard of folks having issues or being unable to get the holes lined up and bolt to thread? Second concern, O loss, is the design decent enough to prevent a clumsy approach from allowing o ring to fall into oil pan? Seems like you’d have to try to work around the flange on the internal part but is that a threat? Thx! Great video and
I have a 2002 internationa 4700 wit the 7.3
This item will work the same way ?
Well worth $ 300! Only have to drop the starter, Saving cost in the long run.
Any advice for dipstick tube removal on a E350? The tube is mounted to an exhaust manifold stud in a difficult location opposed to the valve cover. I may end up cutting it and splicing it back together with a hose and a couple clamps.
I just double checked our shop van and the tube is bolted to the valve cover. What year is your van?
Thinking about getting this for my truck. Everything seems self explanatory, but there’s no need for blue loctite on the screws?
We haven't seen a need for loctite, but a little bit won't hurt anything.
Cool! Great video. Is there any problem the allen bolts weeping oil?
The allen bolts are sealed with copper washers, so this has not been a problem.
Out of curiosity, Do you think it would be possible to crush the old dipstick adapter with vice grips enough to pull it out the hole? I'm sure youve tried.
I highly doubt that this could be done and I would be more concerned about the pliers chewing up the part and breaking off small sharp pieces into the pan while trying.
@@StrictlyDiesel right on... I wasn't sure how malleable that metal was, I have to do this repair and am looking for a solution. Probably will use your part. Thanks!
The only thing I wonder do you have to drain the oil to install this I thought about doing this or wait till my next oil change to install it.
I can't say that we have tried it without draining the oil. It may be possible, but having oil in the pan will make it harder to hear the interior piece land in the sump, and may make it harder to see the interior piece with a mirror if you need to verify that it landed in the sump. I think it is best to wait and do it with the oil drained just to be sure that the install goes properly.
yes this is all very well if the oil pan is off, but what if you do not have the pan off, you cant have that bit of metal rolling around in the bottom of the sump.?? can you? I don't know. As to take that pan off, cost you dollars to have this job done like that, ps your lighting and photography was tip top
This part was designed specifically to prevent you from having to pull the engine and pull the oil pan. Nobody wants to do that if they don't have to. As for that "bit of metal rolling around", considering the fact that the OEM adapter sinks in engine oil and has the weight of 10+ quarts of viscous engine oil keeping it from moving around much, there is nothing to worry about there.
I have seen where some say to let it fall in the very back of the pan and some say to let it fall in the deep section of the pan as shown in this video. Which is the correct way? I have my dipstick adapter on the way to do this repair. Would greatly appreciate any feed back
My guess is that those saying to let it fall into the "very back" of the pan are just phrasing it differently and mean the same thing. You want the adapter in the BOTTOM of the deepest part of the pan, below the windage tray. If you follow the included instructions and this video, you will have done it correctly.
It's going to make it's way in the deep part no matter what you do. Go up or down a steep hill and it's in the bottom.
@@billmalec I don't recommend waiting for inertia to move it around, it's just far safer to make sure it makes it into the bottom of the sump during install.
@@StrictlyDiesel how do you know where it falls? For certain? I was just saying if it didn't fall there it would make it's way there on it's own.
@@billmalec we recommend using a mirror and flashlight in the directions. if the part stays on top of the windage tray, it remains close to the crankshaft and there is increased risk of contact. Once pushed down below the windage tray, it isn't coming back up. The hole in the windage tray is right below the adapter, so it generally falls right through, but it is best to make sure of it before installing the replacement.
I droped the oil ring can't find it some say it will be ok but im not sure 😢
The o-ring isn't enough to block the pickup tube so it is doubtful that it will cause any damage. We would always prefer to get it out of there if possible. You may find that it works its way to the drain plug area and that you can find it with a 90 degree piece of wire or something through the drain plug at the next oil change.
@@StrictlyDiesel there was a baffle plate or something at the drain plug could stick anything in there it didn't look like the one in your video im sure it's fine I have thoughts in my the oil ring getting gummed up in the crank bearings 😂
8:40 just to clarify, that's 100 inch pounds?
YES! INCH POUNDS!
I just bought your kit! Is there any need to lubricate the o-rings on the back of the new adapter?
No. The only think you would apply to the back of the adapter is a 1/4" bead of RTV (between the o-rings) if your oil pan appears to have enough warpage to warrant some extra insurance.
I spent about almost 2 hours trying to get the dipstick tube off of the old adapter. Does anyone know how to get it off?
What is the part number and how much of this super device cost this is a hell of a lot better than $600 for a temporary fix at a Ford dealership
Below is a link to the part on our website. Yes it's a much better option, less expensive and a permanent fix! www.strictlydiesel.com/product/2690/strictly-diesel-dipstick-adapter-repair-kit
Would you need a new dipstick tube as well?
Only if yours is rusted or damaged in some way. Otherwise, just clean up the end, install the included new o-ring and reuse it.
Where in Houston do they do this?
Reach out to STP Diesel or Powerstroke Enginuities. Both are dealers for our parts, located in Houston and can give you a quote for installation.
Thanks
No more leak but on the highway I lose oil pressure and engine cuts out randomly?
Considering the fact that this part has nothing to do with oil pressure, there has to be something else going on. The oil pickup tube sits so close to the bottom of the pan that the OEM part that is left in the can can't get under it. The pickup tube has a screen, so even if you left the o-ring from the OEM adapter in the pan, it couldn't get drawn up into the tube and it isn't large enough to block any significant oil flow.
I would be looking to get a mechanic to do a base engine oil pressure test, and also confirm what the oil pressure is doing with a real gauge in the same conditions that you are experiencing the problem. They may also want to look for signs of oil aeration. The oil pressure gauge on the dash is controlled by a pressure switch that is mounted in the top of the high pressure oil pump reservoir. If the cutting out and loss of oil pressure are related, that reservoir is losing enough oil volume/quality to interrupt the pressure supply to the rails in the heads that feed the injectors. This sounds like an oil supply issue. These trucks are getting old, and most have a bunch of miles as well. We've seen pickup tubes crack and cause oil pickup issues and oil quality issues (oil aeration). We've seen worn lube oil pump gears or damage to the aluminum front cover behind the lube oil pump that affects pumping ability.
Best of luck getting is sorted out.
Do you just leave the old piece in the pan
Yes. This is covered on our website and also in some of the other Q&A on this video I believe. It sinks to the bottom of the pan and has no place to go.
What would a shop charge to install it u think
You would need to contact a shop you are interested in to find out. Shop labor is billed by the job, based on each shops hourly rate. They will be charging you to R&R the starter plus some amount of time for installling the adapter.
Is it safe to drop that part into the pan
Yes it is. Once it's in the bottom of the pan it has no way to contact any moving parts and it will not float to the top of the oil level.
Does anyone have a video on a 1991 ford 450 superduty replacing starter aadapter plate
Go to strictly diesel website?
Yes, there is a link in the description above.
How long does it take while pan is still on motor.
It depends on a number of things, from your comfort level and experience working on your truck to just how filthy the side of your oil pan is. I would say that it will be somewhere between 30 minutes and 2 hours, depending on how quickly you move, how much cleaning you do, etc. I suspect most people are done in 30-60 mins.
@@StrictlyDiesel what's the charge to do this?
Has anyone used this replacement and had the screws vibrate loose?
If it has happened, it wasn't reported to us. You could certainly use some blue loctite on it if you are concerned.
You think it would be better to have the oil empty when doing this?
We do recommend draining the oil for this job, as it makes it easier to verify that the internal piece of the OEM adapter makes it to the lower sump as instructed. This is all covered in the full color instructions.
well worth the $300. to all the crybabies out there, this will eventually pay for itself when you're done losing a quart of oil every hundred miles. and it beats the hell out of having ford fix it...
What happens to the O-ring if you drop it in the oil pan
It likely ends up in the pickup screen of the oil pickup tube. It isn't large enough to significantly obstruct flow, but it also isn't ideal to let it fall in.
Couldn’t you just weld the original plate to the block? Wouldn’t that be a permanent solution?
No, the OEM adapter that is installed through the pan from the inside is not steel, and the pan is steel. The OEM part is some kind of cast pot metal junk.
@@StrictlyDiesel makes sense. I like this kit. Only concern is the old adapter piece being left in the pan. Has their been any issues from having it floating around in the oil pan?
@@kenxiong6830 None. It doesn't "float" anywhere, it sinks in oil and sits in the bottom of the sump, its movement distance and speed hampered by the weight and viscosity of the engine oil it is submerged in. As long as the directions are followed and the OEM piece is dropped into the LOWER SUMP (below the windage tray), there should never be any kind of problem. Based on the number of these out in trucks, there have got to be literally millions of miles on them by now.
@@StrictlyDiesel thanks for the response. I feel more at ease now.
sorry where can i find that adapter? The old oring fell inside the oil pan will it get sucked in the motor or clog anything? what a good idea for the adapter. this is awesome thanks so much!!!!!!
You can find the adapter here: www.strictlydiesel.com/category/172/73l-dipstick-leak-repair
The o-ring probably won't cause any issues, as it can't pass through the screen in the oil pickup tube. It is still a good idea to get it out. If you drain the oil and then use a bent piece of wire, you can probably snag it off the bottom of the pan and pull it out the drain hole.
WHERE CAN THIS BE BOUGHT
The direct link to purchase from us is in the description. We also have dealers all over the country that offer them. If you have a favorite local or internet diesel shop, check with them, good chance they offer it.
No thread lock needs to be used?
It isn't required, but you could certainly use some "blue" if you want.
It's a great product,and it is $300 for this piece, but knockoffs of exact design are all over eBay for $50,and even come with instructions copied from Strictly Diesel's kit. I previously went the old route and replaced the original o-ring but after a short time (1-2 years) the new o-ring succumbs to the stresses and start leaking again. I bought a knock-off adapter kit off of eBay for $50 and everythging is identicle to the Strictly Diesel kit, EXCEPT the holes for catching the thread on the second screw will not align up with the knock-off piece and I can't for the life of me get the second screw started! After 3 days of fighting with this contraption I am resolved to buy the one from Stricktly Diesel and be done with this. I'm not obliged or aligned with SD in any way, I'm just trying to save someone else the frustration and downtime that I've incurred because of this "identical knock-off" piece of crap!
We would greatly appreciate it if you would purchase one of ours, because it actually benefits U.S. based businesses, U.S. employees, U.S. suppliers, etc. The chinese copies are violating multiple US patents and US trademarks. There is NO TECH SUPPORT available from ebay or amazon or the chinese copycats, they DO NOT CARE if you get it installed, just that you give them your money. And make no mistake the money is going to the Chinese govt, there are no independently owned manufacturing businesses in china, no individual human being is benefitting, just a whole lot of sweatshop slaves being forced to make ripoff product to keep the sales channels full. Supporting this is simply incentivizing the continued theft of U.S. ideas by a regime that wants nothing more than to destroy America and our way of life!
Should have bought it off Amazon and had free return and money back guarantee
hi
Why would you leave old parts in the oil pan? That seems like a recipe for disaster, now if the repair is done with the oil pan off like shown here then of course you can just fish the old one out. But this video does not explain any of that, looks like a quality product, need a quality video explaining details
This is how mechanics do it. And not any mechanics, Ford Master Mechanics. I had the same concerns at first.
@@TheMonadnockShootist , maybe if you knew what is involved with "just removing the oil pan", you wouldn't make that comment. You MUST remove the engine to do that since the pan straddles the crossmember. If you get this done at FORD, it is easily several thousand dollars. If you are able to do this financially, I would have that sucker welded directly to the pan - never understood why FORD didn't do that in the first place.
As was covered by another comment, the entire reason this part was invented was to keep people from having to spend thousands in labor for a full engine R&R. There are some people that have managed to pull and reinstall the pan "in chassis", but this involves trying to reseal the pan using RTV while the engine continuously drips oil down onto the pan rail that needs to remain clean and dry for the RTV to cure and actually seal. Most of the time, this just ends up leaking worse later and requiring a proper fix.
As for the part in the pan, there is nowhere for it to go. It drops into a small opening and lays in the sump below the windage tray. It sinks in engine oil and has the weight of roughly 10+ quarts of viscous engine oil keeping it sitting on the floor of the sump. If by some crazy act of stuntman driving you managed to actually get that adapter to come off the bottom of the pan, the chances of getting it to travel vertically the 6"+ AND make it through the small hole in the windage tray to contact the crankshaft would likely be slimmer than getting struck by lightning while holding a winning lotto ticket.
It is Absolutely PIANFUL to watch " PROs " use tools backwards!
Almost as painful (or PIANFUL as you put it) as people on the internet needing to unnecessarily find things wrong with other peoples videos while failing to spell check the criticism they've written. This video was not shot with the pan installed on a truck. The pan was sitting on a table, making it a bit more awkward to work with (it wasn't secured to an engine, it was moving around freely). The purpose of the video was not to show proper tool usage, it was to show proper installation of a part in a way that answers common questions from customers. Sorry that concept eluded you, but thanks for the nice comment anyway.
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Priceless.
JFC! $300!! You're out of your damn minds! I appreciate supply/demand/low production numbers driving up individual costs, but that's just stupid. It'd still be expensive at 1/3 the price.
So you paid material cost for your smart phone, right? Got that thing for $100 with all the latest tech while the rest of us paid $750-1000? Do you go to a restaurant and ask to only be charged 1/3 the menu price for your meal? You buy your clothes for just what the cotton cost?
Comments like this always amuse me because they neglect to take into account so many factors. Yes, the cost of the raw material is quite a bit less than the retail price of the part, that's how business works. The retail price has to factor in every bit of labor to get those various chunks of raw material into a finished part, assemble them and package them. It has to cover research and development costs, the costs of acquiring and maintaining/defending a patent, product liability insurance costs, marketing costs and every other cost involved in running a business while still leaving a profit for the business.
The "value" of a product doesn't come from the retail price, it comes from what it provides to the customer. Maybe you don't see value in this product because you don't mind pulling the engine to change out the factory warped adapter, or maybe you are a capable welder that can install the welded solution to this problem. That's great, but it isn't 99% of the truck owning population. For many people, the only other good option for this problem is to take their truck to a shop and spend a LOT more money paying to have the engine pulled out and the oil pan removed to swap out the factory part. They will barely have any parts cost, but he typical 18-20 hours of labor to R&R the engine will far exceed the cost of our simple part. For many people, this part is beyond "worth it" because they can fix their problem in their driveway in less than an hour, using basic hand tools and at a fraction of the cost of having a shop fix it for them. Their truck doesn't have to be out of service, they are fixed on their own schedule, and the part is serviceable later if necessary. Based on the feedback we have gotten from customers over the numerous years that we have been selling this part, it is more than worth it to them.
Sorry you don't feel the same, but glad you took the time to tell everyone how you felt anyway.
@@StrictlyDiesel That's kind of my point, actually. My issue isn't that you have $10 worth of aluminum, a couple screws & O-rings into the part, it's that you know the alternative is pulling the engine so people basically have no choice but to pay whatever price you decide it's going to cost. Admit it or not, you're price gouging every person who buys one, simply because you can. And you're right, you can. You'll also rationalize it however you want- obviously- even if it's as nonsensical as comparing a dipstick holder to a cellphone. Sincerely, I commend you for coming up with & making available a DIY solution to this problem, but from my perspective, it's unethical to take advantage of people simply because you're in the position to do so- and that *IS* precisely what you're doing. You're no better than a scalper charging 50x the face value of a ticket or anyone else who takes advantage of a situation to rip people off. I have NO issue with you making money off of your products, we just seem to have a very different concept of what would be a reasonable markup.
@@bbrown9763 Wow, compared to a scalper charging 50x. This goes to show you that you have no clue about the supply chain situation with this part. That's OK, the details really aren't anyone elses business. Simply put, we don't hold the patent or actually manufacture the part. The person that does has an entirely different business to run and has no desire to be in the auto parts retail business, deal with customers, credit cards, shipping, etc. As such, he produces them for us exclusively, with our name on them. We write the instructions, provide the extra Ford o-rings, handle all of the packaging, shipping, tech support, everything. While you may think this part costs us $10 in material, that isn't the case.
Just like a cell phone (not a nonsensical example at all), there is a manufacturer that doesn't sell to the public. Then there is a middle man (us in this case). The mfg charges us what he needs to make his profit, and the middle man (us in this case) has to charge what we do based on our additional work and materials, labor, shipping costs, profit, tech support, etc. Since the part carries our name, we also get to pay for the product liability.
Its all good, you don't know all of the numbers or specific situations. If we had CNC machines in house and our cost was as low as you think, we would charge less. That isn't the case. Have a nice day.
@@StrictlyDiesel You're effectively stealing from people. You can write as much bullshit as you want, but at the end of the day, you're stealing from people.
@@bbrown9763 This is pure gold, thanks for the laugh. I'm sorry we don't operate our business like Oprah Winfrey and just hand out free parts to everyone. I'm sorry you apparently don't understand how all of the costs of producing and delivering a product to market affect the retail price, nor do you have any clue how much we actually make on this product. I'm really sorry that you don't actually know what the word "stealing" means. Based on average profit margins of common commodity items in this world, you must walk through every store and look at every product and think you are being stolen from.
300 bucks and you leave old parts in the pan lmao nerds.
The ONLY way to remove the old part is to pull the engine and pull the pan. Since the oil pan has a windage tray with a relatively small hole and the old part sinks in engine oil and has 10+ quarts of engine oil keeping it from going anywhere at any given time, there is no risk to leaving it there.
Awww your what hurts little fella?
Aww is someone broke? If you can’t afford $300 you don’t need to drive a old diesel because they are costly trucks.
@@JoshuaOverman lol wut
There is cheaper products available avoid this company
Which are they?
@@markchavez7707 weld on adapter fix for $30 for one, Diesel orings kit is like $50 or so for 2 that's with just a simple Google search, and the cheap one doesn't leave parts in oil pan it simply replaces existing oring and if it's warped the adapter from the inside they recommend just plastering it with our RTV instead lol. Not saying any of these are better or not but he's right there is cheaper alternatives that may work without the $300 expense that a lot of people during a pandemic and not working can't afford to pay but I also understand when you have a patent and people ripping off your product and the way business works that charging more than what the raw materials is is just the way business works.
Why avoid? It's a good product just a bit high. There's nothing nefarious going on here. If it's too much, don't buy it. I plan not to but that doesn't mean it's a bad product from a bad company.
@@DaveofAllTrades75 There's ALWAYS something cheaper, but you'll figure out one day with enough life experience, you get what you pay for.
"Plaster it with RTV" ??????
Go plaster YOUR truck together with RTV
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