These are amazing videos, especially for us guys just getting started. I am a midwest transplant from Florida going after my first deer of my life (got close last year), Im by myself on small suburb public land near KC. Trained by THP, Im very grateful for the time and effort you guys put into videos. The gear videos have been amazing this summer. As a video production guy I understand it was an off season content grind. But you guys crushed it. The science based info in this one really stood out. Thanks for teaching me to bow hunt from scratch!
These guys are the worst dude. I’m born and raised in Arizona, been hunting the west for well over 20 years. Listen to guys who actually know what they’re talking about. No real bow hunter out west is bringing a 650 grain arrow into the field. Get on kifarucast and listen the Tim gillingham episodes, and you might actually learn something useful.
They are just following Dr Ashby’s theory. To each their own. If you wanna shoot light arrows then that is your choice. But THP is far from “The Worst” lol
Did you get a deer? I've watched this video awhile ago. Jw if you got your first deer. Hopefully you you gave one a dirt nap!!!! You fellow SE MI hunter.
125 Sevr 2.0, 100 grain insert, 31 inch arrow, 30.5 inch draw @ 70 pounds. Total of 525 grains. Has been absolutely devastating to whitetails. Those Sevr's just outperform other mechanicals to me. I have extreme confidence in any scenario with this set up which is half the battle to me.
I’ve shot muzzy fixed blades 100g since I was 16 (I’m 28 now) hands down my favorite for the price. On a second note I can say I’m now in the 1 hr club for one of my favorite TH-cam channels keep up the excellent videos guys.
My gosh this was a perfectly time video. Currently have 5 different manufacturer website tabs open on my browser and couldn’t make a decision…. Thank you!
I've used Sevr the last 3 years and I will say they do shoot identical to a field tip. The great thing about that is you can practice with your field tips and use the Sevrs in the field and they will shoot exactly the same. Ive shot others that advertise field tip accuracy and they aren't the same. Ive not had any penetration issues either with a 2" expandable. Just my experience if it helps anyone.
Yeah, I used to be a die hard rage fan and used them for 5 years but I started having problems with them breaking after each deer I shot. So I switched to Sevr and have had really good success with them so far.
Girl friend smoked a doe with those G5 montec after I sharpened them to ranch fairy 🧚♂️ standard. Complete pass threw from 38 lb bow at 26 inch draw. Arrow was around 490 grains. Awesome performance first time ever seen them be used.
I've used the g5 Montecs for years now, about 10 deer down. Honestly the blood trail is usually pretty light, even on a double lung, but always full pass throughs and I haven't lost one yet. No reason to change.
Ive been using a 650gr, 30%FOC setup tipped with a 2.5” levi morgan swhacker for the last 4 years now and love it. Ive put it through both shoulderblades of a mature whitetail doe, and hit the leg bone and ball joints lot and have always put it through both sides of the animal.
My setup this year is Easton Bloodline FOC arrows and 2.5" Levi Morgan Swhackers for my compound. Can't wait to shoot a deer with this setup. They are the most accurate broad heads I've shot. I've killed two deer with the 3" 150 gr. Swhackers out of my cross-bow. One was a doe which blew through and she dropped on the spot. Never had that happen before in archery. The other was a big 9 point and hit it high in the shoulder/spine. Didn't get a pass through on that but dropped it in it's in tracks and finished it with a follow up shot. Love the Swhackers when using a mechanical. If I'm using a fixed blade I like the Magnus Black Hornet Ser-Razor 125 gr. These are a little more forgiving if it's not an ideal shot but do not fly as accurate as the Swhackers.
QAD Exodus with swept back blades for $40 is amazing, don't have to worry about penetration even at lower draw weights and goes right through multiple bones.
Muzzy three blades come with 9 practice blades. So enough for 3 arrows. They fly exactly the same as the real broadheads. I have been shooting the Muzzy 100gr 3 blade for over 20 years now. They just work.
My old man has shoot muzzies 3 blades for 20 + years and will till he can no longer pull his bow back he swears by them.. he is also a guy who hunted with a old pse from the early 2000 late 90s up until last year and took countless deer with it. Just proves you don't half to break the bank and get the newest stuff to kill a deep
Been shooting slick trick magnums for the past 10 years or so. Just can't find any reason to change to anything else. Fly great, penetrate really well, and kill extremely quickly.
I'm going to try tooth of the arrow broadheads this year. So far I've been very impressed with them. And you can get them for less than $50 per 3 pack. Hit a sale earlier this year and got 6 (3 original and 3 XL) and hot there sharpener all for $99
Those heads are nothing but awesome. I shot a nice buck late season last year and he ran 30 yds leaving the best blood trail ive ever seen (guns and muzzle loader included). Ive sinced used that same head to broadhead tune and ive shot it atleast 50 times. No damage at all. Just sharpened it up and its the 4th arrow in my quiver for this season. Im shooting the standard s series 100 grain, but ive also got somw xl's for turkey, theyre just a bit louder. (Both solids)
Ive been using montec g5 stainless heads with 60lb draw weight. I’ve never not had a complete pass through. They’re real easy to sharpen on a flat wet stone.
I gave up on mechanicals a long time ago, to many bad experiences with rage and with grim reapers, switched over to QAD exoduses and fell in love with them
I shot muzzy for years and even was sponsored by them when I was younger shooting 3d about 8 years ago shot a doe at 26 yards clipped the shoulder blade and it blew up and shattered the shaft itself punched one lung and that’s what killed her 1 bald was stuck in the shoulder blade where I clipped it one was floating around the chest cavity the other one ended up in her gut cavity how I don’t know but that’s where it was and the shaft of the muzzy was broke in 4 chunks I sent photos of the head and deer pics inside and out of what happened and they said that’s normal lol all I ask for was 1 replacement body I had couple hundred blades they said nope so that’s when I switched to cut on contact head
@everythingballistic8812 I use Grim Reaper whitetail special razor cut, 2 inch 3 blade expandable 100gr. They alway open up. But also killed a ton of deer with Wasp SST Hammers 100 grains. Wasp has been around for over 30 years.Very tough and sharp blades. Love your videos guys!!
You guys are opening my eyes to Two blade broad heads. However I agree with Zach. I’m good with a frontal shot on Elk but I’m not intentionally trying to punch through an Elks shoulder
In all fairness we have all had different experiences with all different broadheads and it honestly comes down to which one works for our setup like mine I love expandables because I shoot high poundage (80) and heavy arrow so I can get the penetration on animals even if I do hit bone because of my kinetic energy
The biggest thing with mechanicals is kinetic energy and most people don't understand that and use to lite of an arrow or to slow of a bow. Mechanicals require a minimum of 65 foot pounds but I wouldn't trust them with less than 85 foot pounds I'm shooting a 505gr arrow at 304 fps giving me a little over 100 foot pounds. I shoot the grim reaper whitetail special and fatal steel and they work every time and always get pass through unless I hit the opposite shoulder.
Was watching an old Fred Bear movie and they claimed a good mill file will sharpen. Next time you drop a deer and are not afraid of rapid metal removal . Pull out a fine file and sharpen with that. The serrated edge it produces cuts through hide like butter. You just made it into a steak knife. Ideal for broadhead's objective to cut rapidly. They had fine stones back then but decided to use the axe file instead. Do not stoke in both directions only stroke from the arrow spine toward the point direction. Same with coarse sandpaper or stones. The more acute the apex the longer cutting durability is increased. With the caveat of too acute where the edge is not supported and bends or chips.
I always practice shoot with broadhead and tuned arrows and in my experience I found that the best broadhead for my hunting style is a traditional 100 grain muzzy... ive tried many but I always go back.
in 2020 when you guys were doing the pa public land challenge where was it that you guys did your hunting and camping. Thanks for all the great info you guys have provided to me over the last couple years. I love watching all the different styles of hunting each of you pursue, it always make me think about how i chose to do things and whether or not its the right call and just makes me keep an open mind so i dont fall into the old reliable location or style i try to keep learning and bettering myself. Thanks again guys.
@@D_Boone Watch Dr. Ed Ashby's arrow lethality videos. Experimented with different types of arrow systems and came up with 12 criteria for maximum arrow effectiveness for penetration on live large game animals in Africa. (Hint: His testing did not involve ballistic gel nor car hoods.)
to me the best broadhead is the one that goes straight through the heart! for me its the sevr 2.0 125 on a exodus mmt weighing 517with my mathews traverse at 72lbs 32” draw. Super accurate and ive ate every deer ive shot with one, and you can install a set screw so they dont deploy, that way youre practicing with the exact broadhead youre hunting with. blood trails look like someone dumped a 5 gallon bucket to the deer.
I’ve shot black hornets for years and loved em but this year switched to a heavier setup sitting around 604gr total arrow weight with a 150 grain cutthroat wide cut SB. Excited to see how they perform.
You guys (The Hunting Public) are so awesome. Just hate seeing you associate with "Ranch Fairy". Team up with a real archer, someone that has foundation in target archery and understands physics. The focus should be on your shot and practice not on "Bone Penetration"....that just equates to a bad shot. Focus on forgiving set ups...everything is a happy medium (Not 600+ Grains but 450-525 Grains). Again you guys are the best, just be careful about who you associated cause your association impacts a lot of people. Give your audience a great education and don't take the extremest route ("Ranch Fairy"). Keep kicking ass, you guys are the best. Cheers.
I live in Michigan so I’ve only ever stuck with G5. Going to be going with deadmeat v2's this year. But best believe there is going to be a couple of Montecs in my quiver until i get that first deer.
First year bow hunting. I am using The HMR Broadhead Weight: 150 Vane Selection: 4-fletch 26 Spine: 325 Carbon: 26.5 Insert: 54 Total Weight: 530 FOC: 15.6 Color: White Helical: right If i get a deer this year i want to make sure its a pass through.
@progradepainting3755 that's true getting it in the right spot is the most important thing. I had a good 8 point walk under me but couldn't get a shot I felt comfortable with. So hopefully this year I get a shot. I did bag 4 deer in rifle season so season overall was successful.
@@chasingthefish9042 you’re definitely not going to learn accuracy and proper archery skills from these clowns. Go onto the kifarucast podcast, and listen to the Tim gillingham episodes, and you will learn something useful, I promise.
@progradepainting3755 I am not perfect, but I can put 4 out of 5 arrows in the 9 ring at 50 meters. Which is still pretty big in my opinion. I have been learning from the owner of the local archery shop owner. The biggest issue I have is elevated shooting. Because of that I hunt on the ground as much as possible.
@@chasingthefish9042 then I’ll tell you. The issue with elevation, is the third, second and first axis of your sight…once you have mastered this (and it’s not hard) then, you will be just fine at elevated shots.
Ted Nugent Gold Tips with NAP Hellfire vanes and QAD Exodus 125 gr broadheads for a total 500 gr setup make a good combination for me shooting a Hoyt bow with 63 lbs.
There's a balanced message that can be gained here. Most of which are Ashby points but that important thing to note is that Ashby was shooting a trad bow at huge game. Completely different variables that we're inputting into the equation. Pass throughs aren't hard to get with modern equipment. Archery has gone down the rabbit hole just like our politics, it's either Rage on a untuned underspined 375 grain arrow or a 600 grain plus small cut 3:1 single bevel. Real life isn't like this. 1) Spine your arrow right and tune your damn bow! Ashby is right, arrow flight is key. 2) Have structural integrity - but don't PLAN on breaking bone. 3) Sharpen that head to the absolute best of your ability (mechanical or fixed) 4) Shoot a fixed head unless you've got enough energy and weight (450 grains+) 5) Have enough cut that when @TheHuntingPublic is watching that video on replay for hours after your hunt you have a higher confidence that you clipped something vital. A decent cut size will help. This whole blood trails are widely variable and there's no predictive features is hogwash. All things equal (shot location, etc.) of course a bigger cut will bleed more. It's common sense. Yes, sometime a small cut broadhead if it his something more vital will bleed more than a larger cut 3b in a poor location. That's not science and makes no sense. 6) Arrow speed does. See below excerpt from post on Ranch Fairy's video where I go into this in depth. Time in flight is being irrelevant NOT a valid argument. The best case for minimizing movement using a heavy arrow is that brings down bow noise & arrow noise. Drag is proportional to velocity squared and a faster arrow will be louder in flight because of that. It will make that noise slightly longer though. A heavier arrow will bring down the noise of your bow over a really light arrow, but not that much over a moderate weight arrow. All things equal - 1) Bow noise 2) Arrow noise 3) Same target in the exact same moment. The faster arrow will arrive in less time than the slower arrow = The deer will move less in less time. FULL STOP. We can use Ranch Fairy's data from his velocity erosion video to do an example. At 30 yards it will take a 436 grain arrow (294 fps launch, 273 fps avg to 30 yds) around .33 seconds. A 718 grain arrow will take around .41 seconds. This means that the arrow will arrive 25% later than the faster arrow. Now this is only the time for the arrow to get there we need to deduct the amount of time it take for the sound to get there (1125 FPS to be simple) which is .08 seconds. Taking this into account the animal (if it choses to) has 33% more time to react. This is not irrelevant!! If you think that an animal won't react more given 33% more time you're on more crack than these whitetail are. Think of it this way - in the additional time it takes for the 718 grain arrow to get to the target the 436 grain arrow will have traveled 37 yards. Can an animal react more if you take a shot at further distance? Yes. If you take this BS argument presented in this video then you have the believe that a 30 yd shot is no more ethical than 37 shorter shot as it relates to animal movement. Which is not true. Yes, an animals movement is unpredictable. What we do know is that we want to minimize this unpredictability. You can minimize these by shooting a moderate weight arrow (450-550 depending on specs), a quiet bow, a quiet broadhead and quiet fletching at a decent velocity.
@THP & @RanchFairy mentioned the re-usability of the fixed blades. Sure, the initial price is higher, but 1 of those fixed blades can easily be used to take anywhere from 3 to 8 whitetail ( if not more ); that offsets the cost so much that you can purchase some sharpening tools/stones, and over the course of a few years you're still spending less $$$ than if you buy the single-use mechanicals.
Qad exodus. They are very durable, fly very close to field points, available at most sporting goods stores, blades can be sharpened or replaced as needed, has a good bone splitting chisel tip that can be sharpened. They are my go to point for all the game I hunt.
Single bevel in ground- one edge gets dull because you have a leading edge and a trailing edge as it spins. The leading edge takes the brunt on the impact which dulls it.
I just ordered a dozen meetseeker knockoffs for 30$ Beef up the rubber band. Good to go. Feild Point to Broadhead. Big hole and low deflect slide through design. I generally toss damaged Broadheads for a fresh sharp one. I'm into fast and accurate.
I'll be ordering the ranch fairy single bevel in the next couple days. Troy is a1 for facts. Really appreciate what you and he does to educate and the ethics that guide you
Just my 2 cents, the best affordable fixed blade is either slick trick standards or magnums. You get 4 for under 50$. They fly great, are very shard and pretty darn tough. I've had great success with those heads.
My only problem I have had since switching to the iron will briadheads. And this is probably true for a lot of fixed blades. I center punched a 4 year old last season. And the blood trail sucked on a pass through. The hole is just so small. I thought it was a poor shot just because I was used to my mechanicals. This is making me question what to use this year. Because killing the animal is #1. But finding it is #2. So I'm just having a hard time deciding on what I want to do.
Blood trails are unpredictable. If it dies within 40 yards, the blood trail is kind of moot. Sharp broadheads through the heart and the main part of the lungs is devastating and the deer just don’t run as hard and far when shot with cut on contact, sharp broadheads. They literally don’t know what hit them and before they realize it they’re getting dizzy and lights out.
Swhackers 2" cut 100 gr fast and accurate no problems for me, many deer down & quick best broadhead fixed or mechanical that I've ever used IMHO. -W. Liggett
I have had good luck with g5 three blade. And with the buck fever there more forgiving for bow torque. But iv defently shot deer in the shoulder where yes that arrow was sticking out a far ways
Love the next level sharpening techniques.. here in Florida we shoot a lot of smaller game and more long shots when the opportunity finally comes around. Hoping a sharp, 100 gr. QAD exodus is durable enough for most game but still a bit skeptical at a boar hog over 150 lbs.. might have to switch to the single-bevel higher grade steel if the QAD’s don’t work out..
Awesome video! Thanks guys. Can you share your saddle set up for this fall?? I know it's all Tethrd gear, but wondering if you are one-sticking, SRT, rappelling down, or some of the more "advanced" techniques.
I Used dead meats awesome from a blind left a hell of a hole. Not awesome for spot and stalk. Especially if crawling during the stalk. The blades don’t hold in place well if they bump something. Switched to Sevr and they are unreal. Full pass through on elk no problem. And fly like field points.
Appreciate you guys ! Watched you since Midwest whitetail..I wasn’t a fan last year of y’all switching from mechanicals ..but after this past season Im thinking of giving the fixed a try with early season on a doe 👍🏻
I hunt exclusively public and you got to take the shot the animal gives you. When a deer or hog suddenly appears from the wrong direction or you are off balance or sitting or in a tangle of brush you just cant pretend you are at the archery range and shuffle your feet and think about form. I draw find my sights and look for shot placement. I very rarely take more than a ten count and letting down to reset is very difficult😅
I propose the answer to why one side of the single bevel dulls when you hit the ground is simply due to gravity. As the arrow falls downward towards the ground, the force of gravity will be pressing on whichever side is facing down to the earth more than the edge facing upwards (which has less force put on it). These forces are likely quite small but it's enough to dull one side just a tad more than the other. Cheers.
or, alternatively, the ground on bottom is harder. Let's say that your broadhead is flying into the dirt, and you're about an inch in => the ground material above your broadhead is likely to break apart and kind of explode upward and give way, while the ground that's below your broadhead will compact.
The best broadhead is what the shooter has the most confidence in. I've been on both the light/heavy and mechanical/ fixed blade arrow setups. The average hunter doesn't have hundreds of dollars to change from light to heavy, heavy to light, mechanical to fixed, fixed to mechanical every year or every 3 or 4 years when we switch bows. My budget bow I bought 6 years ago shoots 375ish grains on southern deer just fine. Took out a front scapula last year. That being said, if I was going to the Midwest, I would not take my bow or arrows unless I was looking for a doe or 2 yr old buck. But I'm not paying $200 in gas, $500 in tags unless I can afford a speed bow with extra money to test several arrows, broadheads and the time to explain to my wife why I'm going back home to hunt something I can hunt 5 miles down the road.
Agreed. I've been shooting Muzzy MX4s since they came out with them (and regular Muzzy's before that). Got a wild hair to try something new a couple years ago (Trocar Hybrid) and lost a doe which made me automatically go back to what has always worked for me.
I rigged up an old non-cam PSE bow my son's first bow. Set at about 45 lbs. Shot some old Easton 2117 aluminum arrows. It's not terribly fast but so so quiet. Less than a recurve.
Magnus black hornets are bomb. Yes hit them with a stay sharp outa the box, and mike sohm stands behind his gear! Same hornet has been through 8 deer, they always pass through. Sharpen and go
I have been using the cutthroats looking into the tuffheads as well. Yes they are are pricey but to me they will pay for themselves over the years barring losing the arrow you just resharpen and good to go. The others they are almost one and done or if you are able to replace blades they are still costing you money.
I started using 100 Muzzy 3-blades around 1990, and I shot them for about 25 years. If I had tried the NAP Thunderheads in 1990, I would have shot them for 25 years instead. My younger brother & neighbor still shoot Thunderheads, & they also take down some really nice animals. That includes a record book Canadian moose my neighbor shot about 4 years ago. Around 2014-15, I switched from Muzzy to Slick Trick Viper Tricks. I'm extremely happy with the Viper Trick. I don't want a broadhead that uses screws or rubberbands. Sharpen whatever flies true for you! Outside of the Muzzy 3-blades and the ST Viper Tricks I haven't tried anything else. I seriously don't like wasting money on broadheads I may or may not use. I am sticking with what I have, until the Rocket Man fully develops the fixed blade broadhead with "gimbal lock"!!!!! :)
I enjoy the video and respect these guys' opinions, but how can they disreguard a three blade with a chisel tip? I have blown through plenty of shoulder blades with muzzy's and thunderheads. Those two heads have been around forever and have proven themselves. I'm a little disappointed that they're only pushing single bevels.
I agree muzzys have probably killed more deer than any other broadhead. They push single bevels because they tend to believe everything ranch fairy says.... guy is a joke and his ego is bigger than his britches.... can't stand the guy.... this is also the guy who said short axle to axle bows aren't accurate but yet I think it was 3 mathews shooters who placed with short axle to axle hunting bows...
I beg to differ on some of your thoughts, although I have not shot fixed blades. Mechanicals, I've blown through both front shoulder blades with mechanicals on numerous occasions. No, I don't shoot 60-70 yards, but at 20 yards or less, I've blown through several deer shoulders with mechanicals. Then yes, I've had them bounce off the opposite rib cage and come back out on the same side in front of the ham. I will continue to shoot my mechanicals, they've never let me down!!!
I shot a lotta broadheads! Mechanical and fixed blade and i tried grim reaper whitetail special and ill never get another broadhead. Not unless they quit manufacturing broadheads. Ive had them break both front shoulders. Die right in front of me on a lung shot. No steps taken after deployment of my arrow. Not to take anything away from fixed blades but i think the narrative of mechanical broadheads are junk is hog wash. Too many dead bucks have hung from my porch shot by a mechanical. I have killed every single deer and recovered every single deer that I have shot with a Grim Reaper Broadhead.
I shot a buck with one 2 years ago. Great blood trail but no recovery - not the broadheads fault. It's a devastating design but the steel quality for that design wasn't there. Unfortunately they updated the steel some but they made the bevel angle much more obtuse and it's really bad. The bevel is almost parallel to the target making it barely cut and even through paper it just tears it vs cuts it. I'd love to see this design in a S7 tool steel with a improved tip.
I use Bloodsport gravedrigger cut-on-contact. Shot only one whitetail. Buck broadside at 25 yards. He only went 40 yards. I used Rage with my crossbow. 2 does and the one spun into the arrow. (Unintentional frontal shot) leathal but not ethical.
30 years hunting. simple Muzzy 100 grn green ferrule broadheads have worked reliably for both compound bows and my Excalibur micro 335 crosbow. out ouf all the broadheads ive used.......have yet to experience a negative result. shoukder might bend a blade......but no fail. just my experience......proven. wont use anything else. end of story. period. easy to replace practice head blades too. win wi
Us trad boi’s just scratching our head at the amount of detail. I’m not shooting out past 20 yards anyways so a high foc and a sharp head is all I need
I was super disappointed when I had a Simmons tree Shark bend over on me when I shot a hog. Never recovered the hog and the head never made it through the skin. Zero blood on the arrow. I’ve had great luck with Kudu Points, every shot has been a full pass through, and I’ve watched all but one deer die . The one I couldn’t see fell into a ditch about 40 yards away. They are just a lot more labor intensive when it comes to sharpening the curved blade. This year I picked up some 125 grain evolutions with bleeders. I can’t wait to send some into deer this fall.
@laxg64 the reality is that a pass through is often unobtainable. Some elk bones are hard as hell. The only times on an elk I'd be concerned about not getting a pass through would be ribs or scapula (not the ridge)
I shoot valkyrie 3 blades they are solid 1 piece of s7 tool steel and I found they work really good I’ve been using them since 2017 and I’ve had zero issues
I’ve had good luck with Grizzly single bevels. Less than $60 for 6 plus another $5 for adapters. They are welded plates, not milled from a single block, but they are good hard steel, cheap and strait. Only downside is you need to start with a file because they come with VERY rough bevels.
@@paulwakefield1015 Just Grizzly. I'm pretty sure they were the first company to create a broadhead to Dr. Ashby's specs. I'm sure they are not as precise as the milled variants, but I've never had issues with runout or getting them to fly strait.
I have spent way too much money now on broad heads. I went with 200gr at first and now have 2 brand 3 stylesand 3 weights. It's like buying bullets as a reloader. I have not found much difference in flight but its still different.
I purchased a new bow for the coming hunting season. My old bow was a 70lbs draw weight and I’ve always shot rage broad heads. New bow is set at 55lbs draw weight. I hunt white tails, not sure what head to use, getting mixed information. Any suggestions?
These are amazing videos, especially for us guys just getting started. I am a midwest transplant from Florida going after my first deer of my life (got close last year), Im by myself on small suburb public land near KC. Trained by THP, Im very grateful for the time and effort you guys put into videos. The gear videos have been amazing this summer. As a video production guy I understand it was an off season content grind. But you guys crushed it. The science based info in this one really stood out. Thanks for teaching me to bow hunt from scratch!
These guys are the worst dude. I’m born and raised in Arizona, been hunting the west for well over 20 years. Listen to guys who actually know what they’re talking about. No real bow hunter out west is bringing a 650 grain arrow into the field. Get on kifarucast and listen the Tim gillingham episodes, and you might actually learn something useful.
They are just following Dr Ashby’s theory. To each their own. If you wanna shoot light arrows then that is your choice. But THP is far from “The Worst” lol
@@swagerproductions8202 the Ashby theory is lame.
@@swagerproductions8202 the ranch fairy is by far the worst.
Did you get a deer? I've watched this video awhile ago. Jw if you got your first deer. Hopefully you you gave one a dirt nap!!!! You fellow SE MI hunter.
125 Sevr 2.0, 100 grain insert, 31 inch arrow, 30.5 inch draw @ 70 pounds. Total of 525 grains. Has been absolutely devastating to whitetails. Those Sevr's just outperform other mechanicals to me. I have extreme confidence in any scenario with this set up which is half the battle to me.
Must like shooting slow
Levi Morgan swhacker for me. Maybe my shot placement has always been good for them, I don't know. But I've recovered everything I've hit.
I like my Tooth of the Arrow BH. Machined from one piece carbon steel. you can re sharpen too.
U have to sharpen them though straight from the package
I love magnus broadheads those along with slick tricks are my go to broaheads!
Magnus is my go too.
Love my Slick Tricks!
Both 1 and 1A
Those slick trick magnums are sooo devastating.
Can’t argue with this comment.
I’ve shot muzzy fixed blades 100g since I was 16 (I’m 28 now) hands down my favorite for the price. On a second note I can say I’m now in the 1 hr club for one of my favorite TH-cam channels keep up the excellent videos guys.
I got lucky and got a 6 pack this year while they were on sale at Bass Pro for $30. I’m trying 125 gr muzzys this year.
This is my favorite season! I love when you all go down and get a little fairy dust! Love all of these videos paired up with ranch fairy!
My gosh this was a perfectly time video. Currently have 5 different manufacturer website tabs open on my browser and couldn’t make a decision…. Thank you!
I've used Sevr the last 3 years and I will say they do shoot identical to a field tip. The great thing about that is you can practice with your field tips and use the Sevrs in the field and they will shoot exactly the same. Ive shot others that advertise field tip accuracy and they aren't the same. Ive not had any penetration issues either with a 2" expandable. Just my experience if it helps anyone.
Yeah, I agree. I've shot Sevr the last 2 years, and they've been extremely durable for an expandable
@@Cruzer136 Until they let me down im gonna use them. Most of it is shot placement anyway. Ive often thought of trying the G5 Megameat. It looks nasty
Yeah, I used to be a die hard rage fan and used them for 5 years but I started having problems with them breaking after each deer I shot. So I switched to Sevr and have had really good success with them so far.
@@Cruzer136 Thats good man! Yeh I agree 100% they are very durable.
I’m personally a big G5 Montecs. My experience with them is great and have seen that that leave a hell of a exit hole
Girl friend smoked a doe with those G5 montec after I sharpened them to ranch fairy 🧚♂️ standard. Complete pass threw from 38 lb bow at 26 inch draw. Arrow was around 490 grains. Awesome performance first time ever seen them be used.
I've used the g5 Montecs for years now, about 10 deer down. Honestly the blood trail is usually pretty light, even on a double lung, but always full pass throughs and I haven't lost one yet. No reason to change.
Montecs work well, but I've had inconsistency with them. I prefer good ol muzzy myself.
Ive been using a 650gr, 30%FOC setup tipped with a 2.5” levi morgan swhacker for the last 4 years now and love it. Ive put it through both shoulderblades of a mature whitetail doe, and hit the leg bone and ball joints lot and have always put it through both sides of the animal.
But they bend like crazy and are only good for one time use, also can't sharpen them
My setup this year is Easton Bloodline FOC arrows and 2.5" Levi Morgan Swhackers for my compound. Can't wait to shoot a deer with this setup. They are the most accurate broad heads I've shot. I've killed two deer with the 3" 150 gr. Swhackers out of my cross-bow. One was a doe which blew through and she dropped on the spot. Never had that happen before in archery. The other was a big 9 point and hit it high in the shoulder/spine. Didn't get a pass through on that but dropped it in it's in tracks and finished it with a follow up shot. Love the Swhackers when using a mechanical. If I'm using a fixed blade I like the Magnus Black Hornet Ser-Razor 125 gr. These are a little more forgiving if it's not an ideal shot but do not fly as accurate as the Swhackers.
If you try to aim for the vitals you won't have to shoot through bone? Just wondering!
@@briansteele1378do you reuse bullets?
@@WMBCS bullets aren’t $15+ a piece
QAD Exodus with swept back blades for $40 is amazing, don't have to worry about penetration even at lower draw weights and goes right through multiple bones.
I have the Muzzy Trocar fixed blades and the Swhacker Levi Morgan 2" in my hunting quiver. Both perform exceptionally well.
Muzzy three blades come with 9 practice blades. So enough for 3 arrows. They fly exactly the same as the real broadheads. I have been shooting the Muzzy 100gr 3 blade for over 20 years now. They just work.
My old man has shoot muzzies 3 blades for 20 + years and will till he can no longer pull his bow back he swears by them.. he is also a guy who hunted with a old pse from the early 2000 late 90s up until last year and took countless deer with it. Just proves you don't half to break the bank and get the newest stuff to kill a deep
Been shooting slick trick magnums for the past 10 years or so. Just can't find any reason to change to anything else. Fly great, penetrate really well, and kill extremely quickly.
X2 … plus easy to sharpen
Magnus are the best! I shoot,100gr. buzzcut stinger. Using for the past 20 plus years.
I'm going to try tooth of the arrow broadheads this year. So far I've been very impressed with them. And you can get them for less than $50 per 3 pack. Hit a sale earlier this year and got 6 (3 original and 3 XL) and hot there sharpener all for $99
Those heads are nothing but awesome. I shot a nice buck late season last year and he ran 30 yds leaving the best blood trail ive ever seen (guns and muzzle loader included). Ive sinced used that same head to broadhead tune and ive shot it atleast 50 times. No damage at all. Just sharpened it up and its the 4th arrow in my quiver for this season. Im shooting the standard s series 100 grain, but ive also got somw xl's for turkey, theyre just a bit louder. (Both solids)
Ive been using montec g5 stainless heads with 60lb draw weight. I’ve never not had a complete pass through. They’re real easy to sharpen on a flat wet stone.
It’s because they are extremely soft steel, I get pass throughs with a 2” 3 blade mech along with a 60 ish pound draw weight
@@huntersoutdooradventures413 which mechanical?
@@nickssk8vidz nap spitfire, they’re relatively inexpensive and have never had any issues
You could shoot a larger insert in the front or a heavier arrow but mine seem to work great
G5 megameat rip tko 100gr ethics halfout and boom
Muzzy trocar, slick trick, Magnus all fine. No mechanicals ever for me
I think mechanicals are ok pending on the situation but they need to be a reliable design. Aka not rage😂
Mechanicals are garbage. Stay with muzzy in my opinion. Or any fixed blade with practice.
I gave up on mechanicals a long time ago, to many bad experiences with rage and with grim reapers, switched over to QAD exoduses and fell in love with them
I shot muzzy for years and even was sponsored by them when I was younger shooting 3d about 8 years ago shot a doe at 26 yards clipped the shoulder blade and it blew up and shattered the shaft itself punched one lung and that’s what killed her 1 bald was stuck in the shoulder blade where I clipped it one was floating around the chest cavity the other one ended up in her gut cavity how I don’t know but that’s where it was and the shaft of the muzzy was broke in 4 chunks I sent photos of the head and deer pics inside and out of what happened and they said that’s normal lol all I ask for was 1 replacement body I had couple hundred blades they said nope so that’s when I switched to cut on contact head
@everythingballistic8812 I use Grim Reaper whitetail special razor cut, 2 inch 3 blade expandable 100gr. They alway open up. But also killed a ton of deer with Wasp SST Hammers 100 grains. Wasp has been around for over 30 years.Very tough and sharp blades. Love your videos guys!!
You guys are opening my eyes to Two blade broad heads. However I agree with Zach. I’m good with a frontal shot on Elk but I’m not intentionally trying to punch through an Elks shoulder
In all fairness we have all had different experiences with all different broadheads and it honestly comes down to which one works for our setup like mine I love expandables because I shoot high poundage (80) and heavy arrow so I can get the penetration on animals even if I do hit bone because of my kinetic energy
The biggest thing with mechanicals is kinetic energy and most people don't understand that and use to lite of an arrow or to slow of a bow. Mechanicals require a minimum of 65 foot pounds but I wouldn't trust them with less than 85 foot pounds I'm shooting a 505gr arrow at 304 fps giving me a little over 100 foot pounds. I shoot the grim reaper whitetail special and fatal steel and they work every time and always get pass through unless I hit the opposite shoulder.
Was watching an old Fred Bear movie and they claimed a good mill file will sharpen. Next time you drop a deer and are not afraid of rapid metal removal . Pull out a fine file and sharpen with that. The serrated edge it produces cuts through hide like butter. You just made it into a steak knife. Ideal for broadhead's objective to cut rapidly. They had fine stones back then but decided to use the axe file instead. Do not stoke in both directions only stroke from the arrow spine toward the point direction. Same with coarse sandpaper or stones.
The more acute the apex the longer cutting durability is increased. With the caveat of too acute where the edge is not supported and bends or chips.
I always practice shoot with broadhead and tuned arrows and in my experience I found that the best broadhead for my hunting style is a traditional 100 grain muzzy... ive tried many but I always go back.
One of the THP guys should shoot the complete Valkyrie setup and let us know the results. I’ll be running that this year. Deer season here we come!
in 2020 when you guys were doing the pa public land challenge where was it that you guys did your hunting and camping. Thanks for all the great info you guys have provided to me over the last couple years. I love watching all the different styles of hunting each of you pursue, it always make me think about how i chose to do things and whether or not its the right call and just makes me keep an open mind so i dont fall into the old reliable location or style i try to keep learning and bettering myself. Thanks again guys.
Magnus black hornets fly well and zip thru deer. I like them so far. Basic muzzy 3 blade also has been fantastic for many yrs. Great budget head
Shooting single bevels also increases the chance of a complete pass thru thus promoting the intact "arrow refund" effect.
Why? How does a single bevel at all promote a pass through?
@@D_Boonegoogle Ashby penetration single bevel
🤣 my g5 strikers v2 blow through deer and elk.
@@sapperROSSnot through a bone I guarantee it
@@D_Boone Watch Dr. Ed Ashby's arrow lethality videos. Experimented with different types of arrow systems and came up with 12 criteria for maximum arrow effectiveness for penetration on live large game animals in Africa. (Hint: His testing did not involve ballistic gel nor car hoods.)
G5 Megemeats. Pass throughs, insane blood, flys incredibly well.
to me the best broadhead is the one that goes straight through the heart! for me its the sevr 2.0 125 on a exodus mmt weighing 517with my mathews traverse at 72lbs 32” draw. Super accurate and ive ate every deer ive shot with one, and you can install a set screw so they dont deploy, that way youre practicing with the exact broadhead youre hunting with. blood trails look like someone dumped a 5 gallon bucket to the deer.
I’ve shot black hornets for years and loved em but this year switched to a heavier setup sitting around 604gr total arrow weight with a 150 grain cutthroat wide cut SB. Excited to see how they perform.
Exodus are my go to. Fly better than anything else I've shot and never had a problem with them.
Great broadhead, so easy to tune…
Love the QAD but I’ve been wanting to just tinker with a sing,e bevel
You guys (The Hunting Public) are so awesome. Just hate seeing you associate with "Ranch Fairy". Team up with a real archer, someone that has foundation in target archery and understands physics. The focus should be on your shot and practice not on "Bone Penetration"....that just equates to a bad shot. Focus on forgiving set ups...everything is a happy medium (Not 600+ Grains but 450-525 Grains).
Again you guys are the best, just be careful about who you associated cause your association impacts a lot of people. Give your audience a great education and don't take the extremest route ("Ranch Fairy").
Keep kicking ass, you guys are the best.
Cheers.
I live in Michigan so I’ve only ever stuck with G5. Going to be going with deadmeat v2's this year. But best believe there is going to be a couple of Montecs in my quiver until i get that first deer.
First year bow hunting. I am using
The HMR
Broadhead Weight: 150
Vane Selection: 4-fletch 26
Spine: 325
Carbon: 26.5
Insert: 54
Total Weight: 530
FOC: 15.6
Color: White
Helical: right
If i get a deer this year i want to make sure its a pass through.
Pass throughs are the least important aspect of a kill. Worry more about placement and accuracy.
@progradepainting3755 that's true getting it in the right spot is the most important thing. I had a good 8 point walk under me but couldn't get a shot I felt comfortable with. So hopefully this year I get a shot. I did bag 4 deer in rifle season so season overall was successful.
@@chasingthefish9042 you’re definitely not going to learn accuracy and proper archery skills from these clowns. Go onto the kifarucast podcast, and listen to the Tim gillingham episodes, and you will learn something useful, I promise.
@progradepainting3755 I am not perfect, but I can put 4 out of 5 arrows in the 9 ring at 50 meters. Which is still pretty big in my opinion. I have been learning from the owner of the local archery shop owner. The biggest issue I have is elevated shooting. Because of that I hunt on the ground as much as possible.
@@chasingthefish9042 then I’ll tell you. The issue with elevation, is the third, second and first axis of your sight…once you have mastered this (and it’s not hard) then, you will be just fine at elevated shots.
Ted Nugent Gold Tips with NAP Hellfire vanes and QAD Exodus 125 gr broadheads for a total 500 gr setup make a good combination for me shooting a Hoyt bow with 63 lbs.
There's a balanced message that can be gained here. Most of which are Ashby points but that important thing to note is that Ashby was shooting a trad bow at huge game. Completely different variables that we're inputting into the equation. Pass throughs aren't hard to get with modern equipment. Archery has gone down the rabbit hole just like our politics, it's either Rage on a untuned underspined 375 grain arrow or a 600 grain plus small cut 3:1 single bevel. Real life isn't like this.
1) Spine your arrow right and tune your damn bow! Ashby is right, arrow flight is key.
2) Have structural integrity - but don't PLAN on breaking bone.
3) Sharpen that head to the absolute best of your ability (mechanical or fixed)
4) Shoot a fixed head unless you've got enough energy and weight (450 grains+)
5) Have enough cut that when @TheHuntingPublic is watching that video on replay for hours after your hunt you have a higher confidence that you clipped something vital. A decent cut size will help. This whole blood trails are widely variable and there's no predictive features is hogwash. All things equal (shot location, etc.) of course a bigger cut will bleed more. It's common sense. Yes, sometime a small cut broadhead if it his something more vital will bleed more than a larger cut 3b in a poor location. That's not science and makes no sense.
6) Arrow speed does. See below excerpt from post on Ranch Fairy's video where I go into this in depth.
Time in flight is being irrelevant NOT a valid argument. The best case for minimizing movement using a heavy arrow is that brings down bow noise & arrow noise. Drag is proportional to velocity squared and a faster arrow will be louder in flight because of that. It will make that noise slightly longer though. A heavier arrow will bring down the noise of your bow over a really light arrow, but not that much over a moderate weight arrow.
All things equal - 1) Bow noise 2) Arrow noise 3) Same target in the exact same moment. The faster arrow will arrive in less time than the slower arrow = The deer will move less in less time. FULL STOP.
We can use Ranch Fairy's data from his velocity erosion video to do an example. At 30 yards it will take a 436 grain arrow (294 fps launch, 273 fps avg to 30 yds) around .33 seconds. A 718 grain arrow will take around .41 seconds. This means that the arrow will arrive 25% later than the faster arrow. Now this is only the time for the arrow to get there we need to deduct the amount of time it take for the sound to get there (1125 FPS to be simple) which is .08 seconds. Taking this into account the animal (if it choses to) has 33% more time to react. This is not irrelevant!! If you think that an animal won't react more given 33% more time you're on more crack than these whitetail are.
Think of it this way - in the additional time it takes for the 718 grain arrow to get to the target the 436 grain arrow will have traveled 37 yards. Can an animal react more if you take a shot at further distance? Yes. If you take this BS argument presented in this video then you have the believe that a 30 yd shot is no more ethical than 37 shorter shot as it relates to animal movement. Which is not true.
Yes, an animals movement is unpredictable. What we do know is that we want to minimize this unpredictability. You can minimize these by shooting a moderate weight arrow (450-550 depending on specs), a quiet bow, a quiet broadhead and quiet fletching at a decent velocity.
Hard to beat the Zwickey broadheads at only $5 each! 👍
I like the Allen broad heads from Walmart. $10 for 3 and super good penetration as the blades break off upon impact with the animal!
@THP & @RanchFairy mentioned the re-usability of the fixed blades. Sure, the initial price is higher, but 1 of those fixed blades can easily be used to take anywhere from 3 to 8 whitetail ( if not more ); that offsets the cost so much that you can purchase some sharpening tools/stones, and over the course of a few years you're still spending less $$$ than if you buy the single-use mechanicals.
I've used muzzy and wasp ever since I can remember. They're in many retail stores and I've never had a problem.
Would love to see your opinion of broadheads off recurves and how you need to approach your choice differently, if you do
Lower blade is contacting the hard dirt the upper blade but there was all loosened up for it so most of the abrasion is on the lower blade
Qad exodus. They are very durable, fly very close to field points, available at most sporting goods stores, blades can be sharpened or replaced as needed, has a good bone splitting chisel tip that can be sharpened. They are my go to point for all the game I hunt.
Single bevel in ground- one edge gets dull because you have a leading edge and a trailing edge as it spins. The leading edge takes the brunt on the impact which dulls it.
I just ordered a dozen meetseeker knockoffs for 30$ Beef up the rubber band. Good to go. Feild Point to Broadhead. Big hole and low deflect slide through design. I generally toss damaged Broadheads for a fresh sharp one. I'm into fast and accurate.
I'll be ordering the ranch fairy single bevel in the next couple days. Troy is a1 for facts. Really appreciate what you and he does to educate and the ethics that guide you
I have them! They are amazing!
I blew through shoulder with a g5 deadmeats shooting 28.5 inch draw length at 75 pounds with a 430 grain arrow
Just my 2 cents, the best affordable fixed blade is either slick trick standards or magnums. You get 4 for under 50$. They fly great, are very shard and pretty darn tough. I've had great success with those heads.
My local wal mart has G5s and Rage heads, 43.00 for G5s and around 58.00 for 3 Rage heads. Insane how everything increased in cost over the years.
I had awesome results switching from that G5 to a magnus stinger 125. I will not be changing broad heads anytime soon
My only problem I have had since switching to the iron will briadheads. And this is probably true for a lot of fixed blades. I center punched a 4 year old last season. And the blood trail sucked on a pass through. The hole is just so small. I thought it was a poor shot just because I was used to my mechanicals. This is making me question what to use this year. Because killing the animal is #1. But finding it is #2. So I'm just having a hard time deciding on what I want to do.
Blood trails are unpredictable. If it dies within 40 yards, the blood trail is kind of moot. Sharp broadheads through the heart and the main part of the lungs is devastating and the deer just don’t run as hard and far when shot with cut on contact, sharp broadheads. They literally don’t know what hit them and before they realize it they’re getting dizzy and lights out.
@@HockeyTownHooligan5 I get that. But it worries me if it's a marginal shot. A tough blood trail can be the difference between a recovery or failure.
My ranch fairy broadheads will be here any day. Im stoked to try them out with my new crossbow thats still in the box
Slick Trick Magnum 125's. Have been using them since they first came out. I think the first ones I bought were sold out of their garage. 50+ deer
No discussion of fixed 3 blade?
Swhackers 2" cut 100 gr fast and accurate no problems for me, many deer down & quick best broadhead fixed or mechanical that I've ever used IMHO. -W. Liggett
I have had good luck with g5 three blade. And with the buck fever there more forgiving for bow torque. But iv defently shot deer in the shoulder where yes that arrow was sticking out a far ways
Love the next level sharpening techniques.. here in Florida we shoot a lot of smaller game and more long shots when the opportunity finally comes around. Hoping a sharp, 100 gr. QAD exodus is durable enough for most game but still a bit skeptical at a boar hog over 150 lbs.. might have to switch to the single-bevel higher grade steel if the QAD’s don’t work out..
Awesome video! Thanks guys. Can you share your saddle set up for this fall?? I know it's all Tethrd gear, but wondering if you are one-sticking, SRT, rappelling down, or some of the more "advanced" techniques.
I Used dead meats awesome from a blind left a hell of a hole. Not awesome for spot and stalk. Especially if crawling during the stalk. The blades don’t hold in place well if they bump something.
Switched to Sevr and they are unreal. Full pass through on elk no problem. And fly like field points.
You guys ever experimented with tooth of the arrow heads?
What about the Annihilators? Great Video! Very knowledgeable!
Appreciate you guys ! Watched you since Midwest whitetail..I wasn’t a fan last year of y’all switching from mechanicals ..but after this past season Im thinking of giving the fixed a try with early season on a doe 👍🏻
I hunt exclusively public and you got to take the shot the animal gives you. When a deer or hog suddenly appears from the wrong direction or you are off balance or sitting or in a tangle of brush you just cant pretend you are at the archery range and shuffle your feet and think about form. I draw find my sights and look for shot placement. I very rarely take more than a ten count and letting down to reset is very difficult😅
I propose the answer to why one side of the single bevel dulls when you hit the ground is simply due to gravity. As the arrow falls downward towards the ground, the force of gravity will be pressing on whichever side is facing down to the earth more than the edge facing upwards (which has less force put on it). These forces are likely quite small but it's enough to dull one side just a tad more than the other. Cheers.
That sounds right
or, alternatively, the ground on bottom is harder. Let's say that your broadhead is flying into the dirt, and you're about an inch in => the ground material above your broadhead is likely to break apart and kind of explode upward and give way, while the ground that's below your broadhead will compact.
The best broadhead is what the shooter has the most confidence in. I've been on both the light/heavy and mechanical/ fixed blade arrow setups. The average hunter doesn't have hundreds of dollars to change from light to heavy, heavy to light, mechanical to fixed, fixed to mechanical every year or every 3 or 4 years when we switch bows. My budget bow I bought 6 years ago shoots 375ish grains on southern deer just fine. Took out a front scapula last year. That being said, if I was going to the Midwest, I would not take my bow or arrows unless I was looking for a doe or 2 yr old buck. But I'm not paying $200 in gas, $500 in tags unless I can afford a speed bow with extra money to test several arrows, broadheads and the time to explain to my wife why I'm going back home to hunt something I can hunt 5 miles down the road.
Agreed. I've been shooting Muzzy MX4s since they came out with them (and regular Muzzy's before that). Got a wild hair to try something new a couple years ago (Trocar Hybrid) and lost a doe which made me automatically go back to what has always worked for me.
I rigged up an old non-cam PSE bow my son's first bow. Set at about 45 lbs. Shot some old Easton 2117 aluminum arrows. It's not terribly fast but so so quiet. Less than a recurve.
not even close for me started shooting g5 megameat and dead meat last year great broadhead !!
Magnus black hornets are bomb. Yes hit them with a stay sharp outa the box, and mike sohm stands behind his gear! Same hornet has been through 8 deer, they always pass through. Sharpen and go
I have been using the cutthroats looking into the tuffheads as well. Yes they are are pricey but to me they will pay for themselves over the years barring losing the arrow you just resharpen and good to go. The others they are almost one and done or if you are able to replace blades they are still costing you money.
Cutthroats are a great head
I started using 100 Muzzy 3-blades around 1990, and I shot them for about 25 years. If I had tried the NAP Thunderheads in 1990, I would have shot them for 25 years instead. My younger brother & neighbor still shoot Thunderheads, & they also take down some really nice animals. That includes a record book Canadian moose my neighbor shot about 4 years ago. Around 2014-15, I switched from Muzzy to Slick Trick Viper Tricks. I'm extremely happy with the Viper Trick. I don't want a broadhead that uses screws or rubberbands. Sharpen whatever flies true for you! Outside of the Muzzy 3-blades and the ST Viper Tricks I haven't tried anything else. I seriously don't like wasting money on broadheads I may or may not use. I am sticking with what I have, until the Rocket Man fully develops the fixed blade broadhead with "gimbal lock"!!!!! :)
I enjoy the video and respect these guys' opinions, but how can they disreguard a three blade with a chisel tip? I have blown through plenty of shoulder blades with muzzy's and thunderheads. Those two heads have been around forever and have proven themselves. I'm a little disappointed that they're only pushing single bevels.
Ranch ferry is the leader of the single bevel cult… he has corrupted the entire hunting public channel into 700 grain single bevel builds only..
I agree muzzys have probably killed more deer than any other broadhead. They push single bevels because they tend to believe everything ranch fairy says.... guy is a joke and his ego is bigger than his britches.... can't stand the guy.... this is also the guy who said short axle to axle bows aren't accurate but yet I think it was 3 mathews shooters who placed with short axle to axle hunting bows...
This should be a drinking game. Everytime they say bone you take a drink 😂
Great video guys. Really enjoy the videos with Troy
I shoot g5 havoc sence waddle came out with them, this last bow season I switched to a single bevel and where thoroughly surprised at the results
I beg to differ on some of your thoughts, although I have not shot fixed blades. Mechanicals, I've blown through both front shoulder blades with mechanicals on numerous occasions. No, I don't shoot 60-70 yards, but at 20 yards or less, I've blown through several deer shoulders with mechanicals. Then yes, I've had them bounce off the opposite rib cage and come back out on the same side in front of the ham. I will continue to shoot my mechanicals, they've never let me down!!!
I shot a lotta broadheads! Mechanical and fixed blade and i tried grim reaper whitetail special and ill never get another broadhead. Not unless they quit manufacturing broadheads. Ive had them break both front shoulders. Die right in front of me on a lung shot. No steps taken after deployment of my arrow. Not to take anything away from fixed blades but i think the narrative of mechanical broadheads are junk is hog wash. Too many dead bucks have hung from my porch shot by a mechanical. I have killed every single deer and recovered every single deer that I have shot with a Grim Reaper Broadhead.
@@justinadams159 I agree, I've had I don't know how many fall right in front of me shot with mechanicals
If you’re havin good luck, don’t change brother. I lost white a few deer with mechanicals so I switched. Use whatever is working
Expand that conversation to include moose. Whats your broadhead of choice looking like? Another great video 💪🏼🏹
Have y’all looked at the Ozcut Hurricane? Single bevel three blade. I’m super interested in it. Wondered what y’all’s take on it
I shot a buck with one 2 years ago. Great blood trail but no recovery - not the broadheads fault. It's a devastating design but the steel quality for that design wasn't there. Unfortunately they updated the steel some but they made the bevel angle much more obtuse and it's really bad. The bevel is almost parallel to the target making it barely cut and even through paper it just tears it vs cuts it. I'd love to see this design in a S7 tool steel with a improved tip.
I use Bloodsport gravedrigger cut-on-contact. Shot only one whitetail. Buck broadside at 25 yards. He only went 40 yards. I used Rage with my crossbow. 2 does and the one spun into the arrow. (Unintentional frontal shot) leathal but not ethical.
30 years hunting.
simple Muzzy 100 grn green ferrule broadheads have worked reliably for both compound bows and my Excalibur micro 335 crosbow.
out ouf all the broadheads ive used.......have yet to experience a negative result.
shoukder might bend a blade......but no fail.
just my experience......proven.
wont use anything else. end of story. period.
easy to replace practice head blades too.
win wi
Same here..
30yrs.
Never a problem
Amen to your statement.
Us trad boi’s just scratching our head at the amount of detail. I’m not shooting out past 20 yards anyways so a high foc and a sharp head is all I need
I find it crazy how nobody ever mentions Grim Reaper Whitetail Specials. Hands down the best and only broadheads I ever use
Because they are trying to sell you their 200g broad heads. The archery industry peaked awhile back and now it's all just marketing
I’ve only ever used grim reaper whitetail specials and they absolutely eat up deer, blood trail is crazy and they never go more than 100 yards
Until they fail.
There isn’t really a way for grim reapers to fail, the only thing is they just proabably aren’t going threw any heavy bone
I was super disappointed when I had a Simmons tree Shark bend over on me when I shot a hog. Never recovered the hog and the head never made it through the skin. Zero blood on the arrow. I’ve had great luck with Kudu Points, every shot has been a full pass through, and I’ve watched all but one deer die . The one I couldn’t see fell into a ditch about 40 yards away. They are just a lot more labor intensive when it comes to sharpening the curved blade. This year I picked up some 125 grain evolutions with bleeders. I can’t wait to send some into deer this fall.
Had to try out the Iron Will wide single bevel. Great steel and flying really well so far.
Had bad luck with them. Shot an elk at about 20 yards and the thing didn't pass through. 68# 28.5 draw.
@@laxg64 I'm only after whitetail but that's good to know.
@laxg64 the reality is that a pass through is often unobtainable. Some elk bones are hard as hell. The only times on an elk I'd be concerned about not getting a pass through would be ribs or scapula (not the ridge)
Muzzy Trocar hybrids have done me well
Man i remember when Stingers were like $20 a pack, but that was many moons ago.
I shoot valkyrie 3 blades they are solid 1 piece of s7 tool steel and I found they work really good I’ve been using them since 2017 and I’ve had zero issues
Sst Hornady 150 grain 308 👍
LOL … yes
Get the Cutthroat or R/F Single bevel, and you'll be covered no matter what the angle.
I’ve had good luck with Grizzly single bevels. Less than $60 for 6 plus another $5 for adapters. They are welded plates, not milled from a single block, but they are good hard steel, cheap and strait. Only downside is you need to start with a file because they come with VERY rough bevels.
Grizzly or grizzly stik? Can’t be grizzly stik at that price
@@paulwakefield1015 Just Grizzly. I'm pretty sure they were the first company to create a broadhead to Dr. Ashby's specs. I'm sure they are not as precise as the milled variants, but I've never had issues with runout or getting them to fly strait.
@@rootjr.3658 nice root!
old adage: a sharp broadhead and correct arrow placement is all that is needed.... Elephants have been killed with a simple, sharp, 2 blade broadhead
Where can we see the "test video" of the g5 / mechanical getting stuck in the pig you tested on?
It was on our IG story and i think it was a Rage
I hear so much on this stuff. Is it true that fixed blades have worse blood trails vs mechanical?
Magnus 2 blade for me. That 2 blade fixed design has been killing stuff for hundreds of years
I’ve shot the Magnus stinger for years by far has the best blood trail for a double bevel broadhead
Where can you find the best setup by draw length and or poundage. 27” draw 70lb. ??
Muzzy 3 blade for me shoots the best out of my set up
Im old im disabled and poor. Its Amazon for me cheap ones work great with a well placed shot
I have spent way too much money now on broad heads. I went with 200gr at first and now have 2 brand 3 stylesand 3 weights. It's like buying bullets as a reloader. I have not found much difference in flight but its still different.
Have you guys ever used tooth of the arrow broad heads?
I purchased a new bow for the coming hunting season. My old bow was a 70lbs draw weight and I’ve always shot rage broad heads.
New bow is set at 55lbs draw weight. I hunt white tails, not sure what head to use, getting mixed information. Any suggestions?