Totally unique manual! Great! Is it possible to rebuild forward planet this way? I have two weared forward planets and like to try collect best washers from them both to assembly one good part.
Just finished with my forward planetary. Rather simple to do, excluding final pin locking. Very inconvinient to do it with a chisel so to be sure it cant disassemble I added some welding. If I would have hydraulic press I'll simply use two ball bearing balls to make it like factory, but I haven't, and it looks not relible enough if I try to do it with a hammer. It's not simple to overheat this part, it's rather thick and heavy, and bearings are whole-metal, no plastic inside so it's difficult to overheat with MIG tack weld. MMA welding may do things worse. Welded where pins are solid (other end, under plastic shim have holes), near to outer side of a planet, after a little grinding with a dremel it's flat, shiny and nice. :) It's interesting that I found really severly damaged pin and bearing inside one of the gears. It rotated ok but were near to failure. Moved gear with pin and bearing from other planetary (I reused shims from the second because near to 1/2 of the kit is just like new). Not nice but native gear rotated on the "new" pin&bearing too noisy so I think it has some wear too. After assembly gears rotating with noticiable noise until I soaked it in the ATF. It seems that end play reduced to 0.5-0.6 mm and shims touch the case when rotating. Noise dramatically decreased when lubricated well. Gears rotating rather smooth but not absolutely noiseless, IDK how it should be, I inspected all parts during assembly and no significant wear so I think it's ok, this type of bearing isn't very preciese. I have another factory planet and it's similar. To simplify assembly the 9.5 mm (pin itself is 10 mm) drill bit is very useful to drive before pin to make all the parts alligned. The drill bit in left hand with back part of bit in a hole and a hammer in right, it allows to assembly all the things fast without damage and you doesn't need assembly lube too. Works really nice. I re-disassembled two gears to check all inside is ok. There are a very-very little scratches on the central pin from the bearing pins but it's difficult to avoid (at least without lathe and hydraulic press). I think will be self-repolished fast in the first ride. I think it's important to note that on forward planetary it's better to drive pin in one direction because of lube hole. It's better to strike the end without hole to avoid damage so disassembly and assembly made in the same direction. If you havent enough space to insert shims because bearing cage went a little outside the gear when pin inside - doesn't touch it (simply to damage), pry etc, it's better to carefully strike on the gear itself to move it until it lay on the case, it will align with cage and you can move gear back to have enough space for shims. Thanks for your guide a lot! Hope my experience will be usefull for somebody.
check out our other 5r55 related transmission vids th-cam.com/play/PLQLkuOdKuFovvYiynq3ee--0WSSUyeIxu.html
Awesome thanks for sharing👌👍
thanks and cheers back atcha.
Totally unique manual! Great! Is it possible to rebuild forward planet this way? I have two weared forward planets and like to try collect best washers from them both to assembly one good part.
hi, is someone can design and build it, then someone should be able to fix it. we do all the time. cheers
What was the issues of the car? What issues could this cause? Can it make your car slip gears?
Just finished with my forward planetary. Rather simple to do, excluding final pin locking. Very inconvinient to do it with a chisel so to be sure it cant disassemble I added some welding. If I would have hydraulic press I'll simply use two ball bearing balls to make it like factory, but I haven't, and it looks not relible enough if I try to do it with a hammer. It's not simple to overheat this part, it's rather thick and heavy, and bearings are whole-metal, no plastic inside so it's difficult to overheat with MIG tack weld. MMA welding may do things worse. Welded where pins are solid (other end, under plastic shim have holes), near to outer side of a planet, after a little grinding with a dremel it's flat, shiny and nice. :)
It's interesting that I found really severly damaged pin and bearing inside one of the gears. It rotated ok but were near to failure. Moved gear with pin and bearing from other planetary (I reused shims from the second because near to 1/2 of the kit is just like new). Not nice but native gear rotated on the "new" pin&bearing too noisy so I think it has some wear too.
After assembly gears rotating with noticiable noise until I soaked it in the ATF. It seems that end play reduced to 0.5-0.6 mm and shims touch the case when rotating. Noise dramatically decreased when lubricated well. Gears rotating rather smooth but not absolutely noiseless, IDK how it should be, I inspected all parts during assembly and no significant wear so I think it's ok, this type of bearing isn't very preciese. I have another factory planet and it's similar.
To simplify assembly the 9.5 mm (pin itself is 10 mm) drill bit is very useful to drive before pin to make all the parts alligned. The drill bit in left hand with back part of bit in a hole and a hammer in right, it allows to assembly all the things fast without damage and you doesn't need assembly lube too. Works really nice. I re-disassembled two gears to check all inside is ok. There are a very-very little scratches on the central pin from the bearing pins but it's difficult to avoid (at least without lathe and hydraulic press). I think will be self-repolished fast in the first ride.
I think it's important to note that on forward planetary it's better to drive pin in one direction because of lube hole. It's better to strike the end without hole to avoid damage so disassembly and assembly made in the same direction.
If you havent enough space to insert shims because bearing cage went a little outside the gear when pin inside - doesn't touch it (simply to damage), pry etc, it's better to carefully strike on the gear itself to move it until it lay on the case, it will align with cage and you can move gear back to have enough space for shims.
Thanks for your guide a lot! Hope my experience will be usefull for somebody.
thanks for that, cheers
Transmission brain surgery 👏👏
hi, can get fiddly with fat fingers at times. cheers