DIY / Home Built high performance RC Hovercraft, the inital version, testing, and results.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.พ. 2017
- doogielabs.com/high-performan...
Consider donating money to my paypal doogielabs@gmail.com, I'll use it to get a GoPro for onboard footage!
I hope you enjoy, more videos of this beast coming soon!
This hovercraft can carry 70lbs, it uses a pair of HP Bladecenter fans from a C7000, along with a quad channel ESC and some 1000kv / 1200kv brushless motors. The Hull is built from foamboard and hot glue / fiberglass resin. It is capable of carrying 4x 5000mah 4S LiPo batteries which should provide over an hour of run time.
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That thing is damn quick. It will be scary fast with the new skirt. Pic in Pic was AWESOME! It's great to see you doing videos again Doogie! You have been missed.
really well done!
Cool job mate
Well done! I agree with others about finding a different skirt material. I have never built one, but want to and have thought about using a rubber inner tube. It's definitely a lot noisier with the 3 bladed props and those fan motors sound like a jet engine. I'd love to get some specs from you on motor voltage and amps and battery power. I have a box of some old high powered motors from some old military aircraft electronics, the largest one spins at 14k RPM using 17VDC. Anyway thanks for the video and the inspiration.
Having built a few (some more successful than others) hover CG is of paramount importance (after weight of course). With a big battery compartment like that I could use a couple of strips of Velcro the length of the compartment and one on the pack. Power it up (no thrust, that is a trim change) and move the battery within the compartment until it floats and DOES NOT MOVE on level ground. A couple of lines with a sharpie, and possibly a couple of small bulkheads, and that is a start. Then futz with the trim change that thrust will give you (either with thrust angle, or elevator (or even make it move) angle.
Those Fans sound badass, like real jets!! ...how about some lights? .....DOOGIE'S DAYGLO DELL HOVERCRAFT
This is fucking incredible. Skills and creativity. Love your projects. And count one interested.
nice job.
As I expected, that PiP-camera does very well in daylight conditions. you might have to conjure up some sort of IR-ring with an IR filter lens so it can see better at night, however. tests I did with it were not so good in night-time conditions as I remember, and I have yet to see the footage from when it piggybacked on the Vanagon that one time last summer for final conclusions. but as a sacrificial recording device, it does the job splendidly.
Nice!
Very cool, don't know whether I would have chosen the joystick over a regular RC controller, but it seems to do well
Awesome
Great project love it, watch every sec added to a playlist and Sub
I see you got a little bit of a problem to keep it tracking in a straight line yes?
having your twin set up at the back pointing towards each other not too much for just a few degrees
the same way they make a car tracking in a straight line by having the wheel pointing inwards just a little bit
have a look into it maybe it helps it helps my airboat and made it a lot easier to control less twitchy
nice this mine RC Hovercraft thinks dad for makeing the RC Hovercraft lol heheh
HP server fans nice
thanks for posting. nice work. some thoughts. if friction at the ground is reduced, massive propulsive thrust is not required. you might step back and think about the acv as an aircraft.
first rule: make every component as light as possible. keep all up weight low. keep center of mass low. find a good cg. ideally, thrust line should intersect the center of mass. yerz is way offset. try to reduce drag by improving lift system (reduced auw helps here). replace flexible props with stiff apc electric. if weight and drag are reduced, obviously, thrust requirements will change.
have you seen skirtless design by peter keogh cheers
بسیار زیبا
Nice job 👍🏼
BUT the skirt, I'll recommend you look at the skirt at a real hovercraft.
This has like a inner tube that's open at the bottom, there is lots of videos of them on here TH-cam
I think the one thing I would suggest is to use an old bicycle inner tube instead of shower curtain. They tend to be a lot more durable. It's easy to seal too and being almost the right shape out of the box makes it super easy to mod and install. I've made a few of these myself though not to this level. I used an old tank radio back from when Tyco made their Attack Traxx. Having broken it from doing the stuff I had seen in the commercials I decided the radio needed a new life. I used differential thrust too. The main hover motor was just on with the main switch until the battery died. Try the bicycle tube though. I think that will work way better than the shower curtain. It will still be fairly light too...
agree but not. of course it's kinda impressive to see the skirting inflate and deflate, but using some cheap pool noodles as a surround keeps weight really minimal, pretty abuse proof, and very easy+inexpensive to replace. the cheaper ones are a buck each, the larger diameter ones 3-4 bucks each. floatation guaranteed. main platform from 3/4" blue or green foam insulation board for the larger size pool noodles (slice 1/2" down a side) secure with long thin zipties and a spot of hot glue to seal small holes. after that lift and propulsion gets pretty easy.
Rule 1 of R/C watercraft; ALWAYS BRING SOMETHING TO GET IT BACK WHEN IT; DIES, FLIPS, GOES OUT OF RANGE, RADIO BATS GO, ETC.
Rule 2; NEVER, EVER! SWIM FOR THE DAMNED THING (THE R/C WORLD LOSES A COUPLE OF PEOPLE EVERY YEAR DOING THAT)!!!!
fooman2108 Rule nr 3: What rules!?
alice I would say. Expect to loose/break stuff and find weird bugs.
Another rule (it shouldn't be rank 4 tho) would be to be part of rc groups (online or irl) to share experiences and find help to fix problems.
fooman2108 is that because they get so pissed of they quit
Proper
trying to build one soon. bought a 3d printed body.. so for skirt you just have hole in the bottom middle?
Pretty much, I have another video where I show the skirt construction in more detail. I also have another video for the latest version with some new tricks and I will be publishing the 3D printable body on thingiverse
@@DoogieLabs sweet. I'm now spend the night going thru ur videos lol
sir , can you send me akits and measurement for this kind of hover crcraft ?
if you want it to run better you need a gyro. ..it will drive like an rc car
as a builder of real SEVs or hovercraft, and builder and rc flyer, yours is way overpowered. in stead of that joy stick controller you should be using either a surface radio with a steering wheel, or I fly mine with a regular rc plane transmitter. also that big horizontal spoiler need to go. Don't forget, flying a SEV is like riding a motorcycle on dirt. throw it into the corner but then continually back steer to control the yaw.
Thankyou for your input! I didn't really do much of any research on this, I pretty much guessed and it worked fairly well. I am currently working on the next design which is a 3D printer inner body, but with foam main platform still to allow for crashes.
I'll be honest, I used the joystick, arduinos and NRF24L01 modules because the total cost was $50, and the joystick was $2.50 at the thrift store.. This approach was far less expensive compared to a proper radio at 3 times the cost. I'm glad I did it that way, because I wrote my own software to control the craft. Of course I can keep that setup and use a real radio once and aircraft transmitter once I can afford one. . As you see here its just raw input with no scaling, or correction. I am really good at driving it now like this, when the motor doesn't have electrical problems or the prop nut comes loose. It took a while to get the throttle scaling sorted out and after coming back inside from driving it about an hour ago (just before disassembly) It still needs work it seems. (Though your suggestion of abandoning the joystick would be more ideal)
I attached the motors via pods that are attached with struts to the uprights on the new design so I don't think I need a wing, I've never had the chance to try it without one because of the original way I put this one together so I'll definitely give it a shot. The wing also helped save the props from crashes, so perhaps I can come up with something else for this.
I want to go like 50+MPH across water, snow, asphalt, or whatever is smooth / glassy. When I go fast enough the thing lifts up it wants to flip and I feel like I need to try and control that aero somehow. This happens at well under 50MPH so I'm playing with the idea of downforce to drive the skirt harder into the ground on a flat surface and maintain a higher static skirt pressure. It is entirely possible that it is heavy enough now with a plastic body that I can avoid "liftoff" until a higher speed.
I have about 300 hours of print time ahead of me, and then I'll have a new video with the new results.
N noyp
dead is dead so why whine