How I 3D Printed a FAST RC Hovercraft
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ม.ค. 2024
- I decided to try 3D Printing my own brushless radio controlled hovercraft - watch how well the resulting build turned out!
If you enjoyed the video feel free to leave a like, comment and subscribe for more! :)
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Download the STL files to print this here:
- Hovercraft: www.printables.com/model/3332...
- My steering rudder: www.printables.com/model/706987
Music used in this video:
- Oshóva - Mountain's Lullaby
- The High Line · Causmic
- 13ounce - OKAY
- Influgrant - The best dance music
- Heaven and Hell · Jeremy Blake
- Hollow Bells · Cxdy
- Much Higher · Causmic
- LEMMiNO - Voyage - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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It's a good thing you found an empty backrooms level to drive that thing in.
I remember when I built one in highschool (over 20 years ago) I also pretty quickly started destroying my rudders and rudder servos. I solved this similarly to your M3 rods with a bent hoop of thin fiberglass rod around the area where the rudders moved (twin rudder).
So long ago of course different stuff was available. My RC hovercraft was about 50x30cm, mainly styrofoam and balsa, brushed DC motors and 2-bladed props, NiMH batteries, 7 minutes flight time.
What I found really made a difference in how controlable it was were double hinged rudders. Kinda like the flaps on an airliner the rudders bent in more places. They had one hinge connecting them to the shroud around the prop and then a second one in the middle of the rudder. A simple linkage made it so that when the servo moved the leading half of the rudder 45° the trailing half was almost 90°. This much less blocked the flow of air from the prop and made thrust vectoring way better.
That's cool, thank you for the tip! Gonna have to see if I can improve this design to include a dual rudder
Really awesome project, and the video has an amazing production quality!!❤
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!
That looks wild
Very nice vid!
Didn't thought that would be this fast 👀
Thank you! Yep it's got a ton of power on 4s :0
Now that is what I call a hovercraft!
SUCH AN UNDERRATED CREATOR
keep the work up. i did not expect the hovercraft to be that fast tho
👍
Thank you so much! It definitely has a crazy amount of power on 4s lipo
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Love this ! keep up the good work
Cooles Projekt, well done 😊
The printing is clean the building is amazing actually has hover craft like design so I sub
Well made bro keep going 👍
I've gotta make one of these. Thanks for sharing!
Let me know how it turns out!
This is so freaking cool! I want to make this, but the skirt definitely looks intimidating
I'd say it's definitely worth it :) If you mess up the skirt you can just redo it, it's just a plastic bag
This is excellent! When I built my first and only hovercraft in 1967, I would have killed for electric motors and r/c controls like this. And the idea of 3D printing was over 30 years in the future! Mine was crudely constructed of balsa wood, the lift was from a 0.98cc Davies-Charlton Spitfire model aircraft engine, the horizontal drive was Jetex solid fuel motor. No remote control, it had a short but happy and noisy life bouncing off the walls of the school gym. No video cameras on phones back then so I have nothing to show. Maybe it's time for me to spend my kids' inheritance on some gear like a 3d printer, remote controls and all the goodies I couldn't afford or even dream of back then. Whooppee!
That's really cool! 3d printers have gotten pretty cheap as well, there are some inexpensive options for $100-200
Man this thing is fast!
Was waiting for you to try it on water! After all a hovercraft design is for land, water and rough surfaces.
That's true, might have to try that once it gets warmer! I don't drive my rc boats unless the water is warm enough to swim in and retrieve the boat if something goes wrong.
hi! great project, great video production, great material cost estimation. thanks for your project insights. and good luck and a lot of inspiration for next projects :) and so on ;)
Thank you, I really appreciate it!
Episch,ich finde es wirklich,wirklich mehr als nur gut und es birgt noch immer weiteres Potential um es noch besser zu machen.
An dieser Stelle mein größter Respekt für diese wunderbare Umsetzung und nicht zuletzt auch die TH-cam Video Präsentation 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Vielen lieben Dank für die tollen Worte! Was könnte ich daran noch ändern, um es noch besser zu machen?
This looks super fun project 😀
Definitely, thanks for watching!
Very fun video!!
Amazing. Liked and subscribed!!!
Awesome, thank you!
You should get rid of the rudder and upgrade it with side facing rotors and even ones for breaking maybe. You will get insane control over that thing in 2 dimensions. Even go sideways and backwards. Rudder technology is ancient you can make a really new cool modern hovercraft design with tech of today as ESC's and motors have really become small, powerful and cheap.
If you use a decent ESC you can reverse the motors, that way you could get braking and backwards movement just with a single motor.
That's a very interesting idea, but it would make the whole thing more complicated, more expensive and also heavier. Might be something worth trying out in another video though! I think just using a bidirectional ESC for the forward-facing motor would already give me the ability to go backwards
@@conorstewart2214 I'm using a BLHeli ESC for the forward-facing motor, so I just have to reprogram it to be bidirectional. The issue is, it's not connected to a flight controller or any kind of microcontroller so I can't just connect it to my pc and change the settings, like on my fpv drones
@@conorstewart2214 Yes indeed, even the side ways rotors idea can technically be reversible to give left and right control eliminating the rudder all together and give much better maneuverability as you would no longer depend on air speed to maneuver left and right. @ValRC1 keep up the good work man.
@@broli123 i wonder if you can reach the same effect just by opening/closing servo operated vents on the side/top of the 'chassis'. Bleeding off pressurised air from the skirt to initiate Left/Right
Thats really cool!
Great content ❤❤
Brings back memories when I was a child , what 40 years ago? I had a gas powered hovercraft. I’m thinking it had a Cox .049 engine. It wasn’t RC either lol. But it was fun.
That sounds fun, maybe I should strap a nitro engine on one lol
Very cool. I want to start messing around with projects like this using my P1S. Coming from barely making my own quad, I am hesitant to dive into combining together receivers and esc's etc. The drone was an All-in-one board >< Took me days just to get it armed as is.
I'm sure you can do it! There's a lot less fiddling around with the software than on an FPV drone
nice job!
This is so cool
OMG subscribed!
Maybe use gel super glue for the skirt next time.
Also a fun project I haven't seen is duplicating those crazy overpowered super soakers from the 90's. I had one for a couple months before my parents took it cause of the "they're too freaking powerful" recall, never had a water blaster like it since. It was so fun.
I primarily chose hotglue because it's easy to remove again. Thanks for the Idea!
so cool
Kool model. and your welcome :)
Great craft. I wonder if Dyneema would be a good material for the skirt.
I've never heard of that, what is it?
Curious if you could try a 0.1mm TPU layer for the skirt, assuming such a thin single layer would be solid enough, TPU is very tough. Also maybe augment the front with bumpers.
Maybe, I've actually thought of sticking a thin layer of TPU on the bottom for some added protection
you can make a dome like shield to protect the air cushion and add sweepers to help cover it completely
Thanka for the suggestion! To be honest I'm not quite sure what you mean by that though?
when I said sweepers what I mean is the type of thing you find in broom's only more softer and there are at the bottom of the dome shield to help it move smoother which again help it to the rest of air cushion completely and you need to recreate the base of the hovercraft to add four peg like things the two are at the front and the back and the other two are on the sides the peg things are for sliding in the dome shields which are in two pieces for the front and back to help it make it look like a whole piece altogether
No idea if anyone has mentioned it yet, but you should look into the concept of 'servo saver'.
RC car guys use them all the time and never break servos ;)
I know, I have them on all my rc cars! Just wasn't sure how I could incorporate one on this
You SO should put an FPV camera on it!!
And maybe try to put a front bumper on it
and I think if you were to get a bigger prop for the skirt or make the skirt inlet smaller you should find it would 'float' at a lot lower throttle
Thank you for the great suggestions! I might actually put an FPV cam on it, but I think I'll do some other improvements on it first. Mainly the skirt and the material it's made out of, I want to find something that can survive being used on asphalt without any issues.
Your idea with the smaller inlet is great as well, as now that I think about it, air can probably escape from the inlet as the prop doesn't fill it out fully! I didn't even think of that. Definitely something I'll have to improve as well!
About the front bumper, I think I'll just make a better and more durable mounting solution for the skirt instead. Gluing it on every time isn't fun, and maybe I could design something where it just clips on or screws on.
Nice video!
Fantastic job, dude! Really well done!!! 😃
You just got another subscriber here!
I don't have a 3d printer yet, I don't even have a computer right now. 😬
But as soon as I can I'm going to try to modify the files of one of those... So you don't need hot glue to assemble it. You know?
Don't get me wrong, I love hot glue... But gluing isn't exactly a good way to fix something that needs to be replaceable.
For the bottom side of the skirt it should be easy... But for the top part I don't really know. 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you very much! And yep, hotglue works but it definitely isn't optimal, lol. I've seen some other designs use a lot of little plastic clips for securing the skirt to the main body of the hovercraft - which also seems like a lot of work to me. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
I only have 2304 Motor laying around. I know there a way havyer but does they Fit?
And I think i could get more Performance when I youse the 3 Inch HQ 8 Plade Props for the ducts
I'm not sure if the mounting pattern of those motors lines up, how much distance is there in between the mounting holes? Also thank you for the hint, might try those props out!
Awesome video. I will be building this. I just subscribed to your channel.
Thanks for the sub and have fun building this!
Hello, your project is cool. Could you please tell me what type of remote control and receiver are needed? Are there any specific requirements for the motor? Thanks
I used a FlySky GT5 transmitter with a fitting receiver, but any hobby-grade transmitter should work. As for the motors, I used 1607 with 2800kv. Some other sizes like 1407, 1408 or 1507 would also work great though
That's so cool dude. Any ideas on how to improve the rudder so it doesn't get as damaged? Also, do you think it'd be easy to make it somewhat waterproof? It'd be great to see it in some amphibious terrain.
Thanks! The Threaded rods I added in the video actually did a great job at protecting the rudder and servo - haven't broken one since! As for waterproofing, it can be done either by using a waterproof Receiver and ESCs in the first place, or by waterproofing them with some conformal coating. It's probably a good idea to install some foam to the underside as well, in case the hovering motor slows down or stops
@@ValRC1 I'm sorry. I meant to ask for the air cushion / skirt. English is not my first language and I mixed the words. The air cushion showed some damage. It's true it can be "easily" replaced but I was curios to know if there it a more permanent solution.
@@5eurosenelsuelo ohh okay, yes I've heard some people sew them out of ripstop nylon fabric, making it waaay more durable and even perfectly usable on asphalt
hey sehr tolles Video. Mich würde interessieren welche Motoren genau verbaut sind. Ich habe noch brushless-motoren zuhause die aber leider nicht passen. sind zu hoch und die Lochabstände passen auch nicht. Die 1407-Brushless Motoren finde ich nicht im netz. Lg
Kannst sonst Mal nach 1408 schauen, ich selbst hab Eachine 1607 Motoren drin aber die Qualität ist absolut grottenschlecht, würde ich nicht empfehlen.
Cool, I have printed the HC that was/issomewhat well known that is on thingiverse. That one has a pretty "elaborate" rudder assembly thatI think has some advantages to this design with one massive rudder fin. It also has a very different and in some ways better and other ways worse way of attaching the skirt. I dont care for the glue on design here. I think a better approach at least for the outside would be to print a "brim" that you could clamp or screw on and interlock the skirt. Would make it much eaierto quickly change the skirt.
Which one is that?
nice build!
just a suggestion, instead of hot glue for the skirt, use a cheap silicone sealant.
Great point, I'm actually thinking about making a fixture for the skirt so it's easily replacable
its cool.
As for the skirt, have you thought of trying to fashion a skirt out of an old bicycle inner tube (probably from one of those fat tires, not the skinny ones) ??
Or some other sheet rubber/rubberized material that isn't too light.
With those, you could use the proper glue that is used when fixing a flat inner tube. It will adhere better and doesn't need to be heated.
With an inner tube (you could play with different sizes) you could use the contours of the inner tube to create a more evenly rounded parameter that, if formed right, should lift the hovercraft right off the surface. If even only a few mm.
Just a thought.
The issue with this is it is very difficult to fully inflate the skirt if it is much stiffer thana plastic bag. From experience with another but similar design even just doublebaging the skirt has a strong effect on inflatability. I think maybe glueing something like a inner tyre tube might be a good idea directly to the parts that show the most wear, but not a skirt fully made of it.
@@johanfredriksvendsen8482 Perhaps thinner inner tubes.
The other option might be, as some have used, that "faux leather" stuff as it too, can be found in very thin versions.
Interesting Idea, how would you join the two ends of the tube together?
@@ValRC1 One thing about that kind of rubber is it's ability to be glued.
If you think of a bicycle inner tube, when it goes flat, you can take it off the bike, find the hole, then you scrape it with this metal grater tool to rough it up, then us that contact cement (glue) that comes with it, add that to both the area prepared and the rubber patch, wait for them to almost dry, the put the 2 pieces together, with pressure.
That will hold forever.
So for this skirt, you'd prepare the inside of the one and and the outside of the other end. (grating them) Apply the contact cement, wait until almost dry then QUICKLY join them. You'd probably have to slightly stretch the outer one so it will slider over the inner without getting stuck immediately.
when i seen this thumbnail i thought of jackie chan movie when he cuts the hovercraft with a lambo with a sword haha
1:35 Tell me if I am stupid or not: I have recently been leaving the plastic dust covering parts I am going to glue and I feel like it is acting in almost the same way as baking soda or saw dust, increasing the surface area and making the joint much stronger than it is without it.
That's an interesting thought, I always just clean everything I glue with some high percentage alcohol before gluing, to remove and residue and, like in this case, plastic sanding dust. You may have a point, but I never had any issues doing it this way. The joint on this hovercraft is solid. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
small suggestion for improvement maybe? use the inner tube of a bicycle tire for the skirt.rubber should be sturdier than the plastic
Thanks for the suggestion! I might try that sometime
Awesome project, and looks like a blast. Could you give me a prospective on how long it takes to print all the necessary parts? I’m new to 3D printing and I hear depending on print surface availability I can only print small parts that fit the printer. Plus some basic prints take 12+ hours even😬thanks.
The main body took 18 hours, the rear motor mount 2.5h, the skirt frame 1.5h and the rudder also 1.5h. I just let it print over night when the print takes a long time. And it's still quicker than odering something and waiting for it to arrive
Oh and yes, you can only print parts that fit in your printer. You can look up the build volume of a specific printer though, mine is 205x250x205mm max if I recall correctly
Thanks again for the info
What motor do you used?
It probably works fine without the air cushion ventilator, right? Not much friction on small toys anyway.
No, it rubs way too much
Awesome !! What if you made the skirt out of two layers of duct tape ? I think i am going to try that some day when i have the time !! 😃
Great Idea, let me know if it works out!
very cool but could you give me the names of the electronics you used the pintables description dose not have a lot of info thanks👍👍
Sure, here is some info on my electronics:
Motors: Eachine 1607 2800kv (Bad quality, other 1407 or 1408 would prob be better)
ESC: I'd use two 30A LittleBee BLHeli_S ESCs (I used one of these, one "ACE RC")
Servo: Generic 9 Gram servo, "SG90". Get a metal geared one if possible
Transmitter: FlySky GT5 (any should work, I just use this for all my cars as well)
Receiver: Flysky Receiver that works with my transmitter
Battery: one 4s 650mah, two 3s 2200mah. I'd recommend a 4s with 800-1300mah.
your 3d printer seems to be very accurate what kind of it? and what is the material you use?
It's an original Prusa MK2.5S. I used standard PLA Filament
Nice video! It must have taken a lot of work to make.
Thank you, I appreciate it!
nyoom~!
x3
Nice! What radio and receiver combo are you using?
A Flysky GT5 with a cheap 3ch FlySky AFHDS-2A receiver
@@ValRC1 Thanks! I can't get my Spektrum radio/receiver combo to control the rotors separately. Do you have an affiliate link?
Unfortunately not, it should be pretty easy to find online though. Even with the GT5, it took some trickery in the settings to get the 3rd channel to work properly, using trim, subtrim and endpoints.
If you want full adjustability and control for all kinds of projects something like the Radiomaster MT12 would be great as it comes with EdgeTX software, which has endless settings and programming options. I might get one of those myself at some point, it is more expensive though.
I would recommend to attach yellow propeller directly to the servo. Without a tail.
But still it’s the most satisfying and fun project I have seen this year yet.
Thanks for the suggestion!
needs a remix to make the skirt easily replaceable, and a compartment built in for electronics and battery, so it can have brief jaunts over water
i'm thinking about that black Butyl rubber sticky stuff. They use that inside car door panels to waterproof/seal them with big pieces of plastic foil. It's a sticky rubber that does not harden. It's like chewing gum that stays soft.
I've thought about that as well - glueing the skirt on isn't optimal. About the electronics compartment: another possibility would be just installing waterproof electronics. Thanks for watching and taking the time to commment!
@insanebmxthomas That could work, some also use silicone conformal coating for waterproofing electronics
parabéns!
Cooles Projekt, ich würde mir ne Schablone für das Kissen anfertigen dann geht es deutlich schneller. Außerdem wäre es besser wenn die Folie mit dem unteren Rahmen geschraubt wäre. Man könnte auch ein dünnes Dichtband aufkleben. Vielleicht bastel ich das bei Gelegenheit mal nach.
Gute Idee, beim nächsten Kissen mache ich mir gleich ne Schablone dazu. Ich muss auch noch schauen ob ich das Kissen oben irgendwie anders befestigen kann als kleben, ist halt suboptimal.
How are you doing the prusa timelapse?
They're timelapses recorded from a gopro mounted to the heated bed
Mine is printing off at the moment.Will finish it when I get back from holidays.
Awesome, let me know how it turns out
2:30 I would try ironing on the plastic bag? Fuse it to the plastic?
3:30 okay, it melts way too much... just spray the frame with 3M glue
I'm suggesting using a rubberized material or even the inner tube of a bike tire.
That way, it's already "rounded" and would fit and look more like a real skirt from a real hovercraft.
Plus, the glue used doesn't need to be heated and with the right, softest, lightest, rubberized material, he could form a very professional looking/functioning skirt.
You really should have stuck with a dual rudder for the redesign, and rather makeeach rudder longer, and maybe further apart.
With a single rudder only half the thrust form the motor is diverted and it'll still want to move forward. with a dual rudder you can divert nearly all the thrust to the side if you wish.
I see, the issue was the original creator of the hovercraft only uploaded his rudder on January 8th, when this video was posted. Before that, there was no rudder uploaded so I had to design my own. I'll try if a dual rudder gives me better handling in the future though!
Hi !
First of all thank you very much for the video it was very interesting.
I would also really like to make an RC hovecraft by myself and so could you send me the references of your electronic components (especially the motors). In any case, thank you and good luck to you!
Thank you for the positive feedback! Here is some info on my electronics:
Motors: Eachine 1607 2800kv (Bad quality, other 1407 or 1408 would prob be better)
ESC: I'd use two 30A LittleBee BLHeli_S ESCs (I used one of these, one "ACE RC")
Servo: Generic 9 Gram servo, "SG90". Get a metal geared one if possible
Transmitter: FlySky GT5 (any should work, I just use this for all my cars as well)
Receiver: Flysky Receiver that works with my transmitter
Battery: one 4s 650mah, two 3s 2200mah. I'd recommend a 4s with 800-1300mah.
Hi, thanks a lot for taking the time to answer to every comment this is realy cool ! I take you update for my project. Have a good day !@@ValRC1
HOW ARE YOU JUST TOUCHING HOT GLUE OH MY LORD
It just feels warm or slightly hot to me, weirdly enough xD It is a low temp hot glue gun though
yoooo
Now i wanna buikd one that looks like the starwars speedster
Go for it!
face the lifting prop forward. get some ram air assist from speed alone, reduce the power that part needs.
or just use a lifter with bleed off for the thrust part.
consider either vector thrust for steering or a "kitchen rudder", which is even better as it will give reverse thrust along directional control, and also forms the duct...
theres also another interesting effect one can produce to make a "hovercraft" cling to the ceiling... but im not going to describe it as thee fun is finding out these things for yourself...
hint. the primary school science trick of (not) blowing a bit of folded paper off a table...
Thanks for your interesting thoughts! I guess making the skirt inflation motor run the other way would make it suck itself to the ceiling?
@@ValRC1 no. blowing air at the ceiling. no "vacuum cleaners" here. ;) thats far too basic!
i said the fun is finding out about it because at first it makes no sense. its just bernoullis principle...
Huh, that does in fact not make sense xD. Wouldn't that push it away from the ceiling?
When I was a kid, I built something similar from a plastic bottle and a zip-lock gripper😂
That's pretty cool!
Can it work on water or is insulation needed?
It might work on water as is but I'd add some foam so it floats by itself if it loses power
@@ValRC1 you could try foam TPU filament
Or just stick on some regular foam
Motor and rc transmitter settings?
The skirt inflation motor is set to a button on the transmitter that toggle switches it from 0% to ~60-70% Throttle, the standing motor / forward thrust motor is set to the throttle lever like normal and the steering servo is set to the steering wheel like on an rc car.
Res Res Res RESPEK !
Can it can on water
Does it drive on water?
Haven't tested that out yet, I might try it in summer when the water isn't as cold though.
hdzero next?
I don't have the budget for digital FPV, but I might add an analog fpv system to this at some point!
Bro please make a rc truck completely made up of 3d printer ❤
Thanks for the cool Idea!
What kv motors are those?
3800kv if I recall correctly
They have 2800kv
I picked up a set of 2800kv and i think 3600kv for the heck of it. Great video by the way. @@ValRC1
@@insane18700 lol sorry about that, I accidentally told you the wrong kv at first. Both should work though, and you could try using the 2800kv motor for skirt inflation and the 3600kv for forward thrust - I think it would be a pretty good combination
That is the plan lol thank you and no problem. @@ValRC1
This hovercraft is full of eels.
Have you tested it on water?
Not yet, I might try it in summer when the water is warmer
@@ValRC1 I am curious how much thrust does it need to stay afloat
@@TheEragoon Around 60-70% Throttle to hover properly on a 3s lipo, and around 50% on 4s
@@ValRC1 It might be a good idea to add some kind of floats on each side, so that if something happens, while on water, it'll just float rather than sink.
Wet lithium, not so good. LOL
The Lipo battery cells are sealed so it's fine
that's a back to the future dodgem car 🤣 🤣 🤣
Up your skirt game. The proper way to make a skirt from a trashbag is to use a soldering iron with a flat tip to cut and seal the skirt. Leave the two layers of the bag struck together and trace the outline with a hot soldering iron, a little practice and you should be able to cut and seal it in one pass.
Make sure the air passes into the skirt from the deck pressure, inflating it then out evenly spaced holes on the inner underside where the skirt attaches to your bottom plate. A single 25% 'stability hole' in the geometric center of the hull goes a long way towards a stable hover.
Or go entirely skirtless lol. th-cam.com/video/UmS_t55DbN0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for the advice! In what way would a skirt made that way improve performance over mine?
@@ValRC1 Advantages are a straight, clean skirt with more volume, it inflates into a fuller, more rounded profile providing higher ride height, and more width. The rounded profile gives the curtain air a better path outward along a curve, and actually sucks the perimeter of the craft down to the ground as the center lifts it. Get this right and the craft will hover at about 10% of the height of the effective beam or diameter on round craft, but will actually be stuck down at that altitude if it tries to go any higher. It's super efficient and stable.
It will also as a result of it's geometry and volume, will have more 'suspension, meaning it can take jumps, drops, and handle rougher terrain better. As a general rule the skirt should have camber in relation to the upper deck, meaning the inflated contact patch of the skirt should be wider than the top deck, the camber angle should be about 10-15 degrees or the craft will experience excessive roll with that large volume of skirt.
Here's a video of a hovercraft with a large volume sewn skirt jumping a curb a few inches high without impact, the skirt just sucks it up and the craft launches. th-cam.com/video/7-oTpiiwjVA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-jQw0m3vAeWx3Cr5&t=181
Now if you REALLY want to up your skirt game, get some super thin ripstop nylon, like 0.9oz weight, some needle and thread, and learn to sew so you can make the best skirt possible. It's not hard.
I haven't been hovercrafting lately but i will be soon, i just finished a new large shop space and i'm planning to design some better 3d printed hovercraft better than all the ones i've seen so far.
If you want, check out my posts about hovercraft over at RCGroups, (username Rusty Mustard) there's a LOT of details of pics, vids, posts, diagrams etc on there i've posted years back.
@@rustymustard7798 Sounds good, I'll have to look into that. Thank you!
I would love to see it hovering on water
He'd have to first add some very light weight floats around the sides so that if something goes wrong, it will float and not sink to the bottom of the water/lake.
Maybe in summer when the water is warmer!
Just so you know in the future, ISO will make hot glue release if you have an oopsie
I didn't know that, thanks for the hint! Do you mean Isopropanol alcohol by ISO?
@@ValRC1 yes
It be zuming
Yeah the word f****t was not taboo in 2008. Maybe where you were, but not everywhere in the US for sure
Great👍 Funktionierte das auch wenn man es doppelt so groß baut ?
Sollte gehen. Man müsste allerdings das Design ein bisschen abändern, damit die Bauteile noch passen.
Hoonicraft
indeed :D
Please put the files 3d
The links to the 3d files are in the video description :)
2:59 the central half-circle and rectangular areas should stay blocked.!
Not sure I understand this completely - if the whole skirt is blocked, where does the air blow out to actually make it hover?
You mean, the other areas should be open?
most people dont know about hovercraft sir only car or other
You know you don't have to use hot glue. There are other non-hot options available. CA glue would have worked fine for example.
I didn't want to use CA glue for the skirt, because it's a lot harder to remove again
@@ValRC1My best favourite for such use cases is B7000 - good old elastic screen goop.
Never lets you down.
Doing my RC cars' cork fixes and strengthening using it ever since I had one.
@@harlequintheserpent7016 the funny thing is, I just ordered some B7000 for a phone repair! Good to know it works well for other things as well
@@ValRC1 Just one thing for you to be cautiuous of then - this glue doesn't fair negative temperatures too well, but so does the hot glue.
For me it's fine because I run my cars without corks in winter - they only collect snow and don't do too much in terms of protection because cold makes them quite brittle.
Same applies to some of the filaments for 3d printing - I saw guys crafting literally indestructible mods for their cars... and then came the cold)))
My best guess is that photopolymers generally do better for loaded parts, and stand more chances to survive in winter, but such tech is quite expensive to run, so not too much real world data is out there. No surprise considering how much you'd have to spend on jugs of potentially useless resin just to find the right one.
@@harlequintheserpent7016 to be honest, most plastic gets really brittle below freezing temperature. What is a photopolymer?
Two words. Teflon skirt.
That's a great idea! I'll see if I can get some Teflon film and what other options there are for a better skirt
@@ValRC1 Thanks!
You'll likely need some way to affix it mechanically. Glue won't stick to it.
Use glass fiber
Thx for the suggestion!
⚡️⚡️GREAT STUFF⚡️⚡️I’m glad I found your channel I look forward to seeing more of your videos📺 I do mostly TRANSFORMER Stop Motion 🎬📸🎞️ I hope you enjoy my animation‼️ 13:43
Kyon bata Rahe inko nahin pata bhi inko bare mein jindagi kahan rukne wali
What size motors and batteries did you use?
Here is some info on my electronics:
Motors: Eachine 1607 2800kv (Bad quality, other 1407 or 1408 would prob be better)
ESC: I'd use two 30A LittleBee BLHeli_S ESCs (I used one of these, one "ACE RC")
Servo: Generic 9 Gram servo, "SG90". Get a metal geared one if possible
Transmitter: FlySky GT5 (any should work, I just use this for all my cars as well)
Receiver: Flysky Receiver that works with my transmitter
Battery: one 4s 650mah, two 3s 2200mah. I'd recommend a 4s with 800-1300mah.