Here are the links to the various tools in case you would like to check them out. If you use any of the links below, I am an affiliate which means I get a small commission for each item sold (at no extra cost to you). This would be very kindly welcome to help support the channel that takes an incredible amount of work to produce. Free shipping from gardenimports till 19th September by using this coupon code: Y4FKBQHW on Any Landzie Compost Spreader, Landzie Hollow Tine Aerator or Landzie Lawn Level SWARDMAN manual aerator: www.gardenimports.co.uk/product/swardman-hollow-tine-fork-aerator/?ref=566 LANDZIE manual aerator: www.gardenimports.co.uk/product/landzie-hollow-tine-aerator/?ref=566 JNJ Store manual aerator: Get 5% off: www.jnjstore.co.uk/?cc=LawnRight5 OR get FREE delivery worth £9.99! www.jnjstore.co.uk/?cc=LawnRightFREE WALANSEE manual aerator: amzn.to/3LbepFN Join my mailing list: lawnright.co.uk/diy/freebies/subscribe/
i got sick of Aerator getting blocked i ended up creating my own out of a few 2 by 4 and a old shovel handle and some gold corse machine airator tignes
Why didn't you just cut 2 or 3 of the prongs of the the 5 prongs models? I flattend 2 prongs on mine. It works much better and it still makes 5 holes in the ground.
I’m from the US and all the videos you put out helped me renovate my lawn last season. Just looking back at photos when I first moved in and now all the hard work paid off! Thanks!
Hi shaun On your recommendation I bought the ( j n j )budget one And after using on two lawns approximately 70'x20' It performed beautifully I think the chances of the hollow tine breaking are pretty low After all you're only going into soft soil I recommend jeting through with the hosepipe immediately after use It was easy to use and by the way I'm 75 years of age All the very best John s Manchester
Interesting to read, thanks for sharing your experience. The more expensive ones are usually not better, although the quality cannot always be checked on the photo. LawnRight we actually have to thank :). I just ordered one as well. Two days ago I treated my fairly decent lawn, the grass is Barenbrug RPR sport and play. Only slightly in one direction with the blades through. All ready to go into the fall and winter. Now test the above. I'm curious! With a garden of 1600 square meters fun guaranteed! DCM Lawn Fertilizer Autumn (organic-mineral fertilizer NPK (Mg) 8-4-15 (3) with iron Fe) Or the DCM Pur. During the spring and summer use DCM Vital Green. The last one is something I can recommend to you, an absolute winner! Top quality. Greetings from Brussels, Belgium.
Thanks so much. In this one video you managed to answer heaps of questions for a newcomer to lawn aeration. I now know what to look for and what to avoid.
I have one with a collector plate. I have such a compacted soggy lawn covered with worm casts that turn to mush in the rain. The collector plate is a godsend and avoids more mounds of mud on the grass.
Thank you for this (and you other videos)! After watching this I went with the Landzie aerator which I received today (ordered from you link with free shipping thanks to your code - thanks). The reasons I prefered the Landzie to the Swardman are: 1. Angled tines, which I think will penetrate the ground more easily 2. Space to fit my foot in the frame, so I can push down from the middle rather than the sides 3. The price. It feels very sturdy and seems very well made - I am impressed! Anyway, ordering was the easy bit - now I have to use it, but will wait so some rain first to soften the ground.
Are you going to do this and then seed so the seeds fall in the holes? Thats what I was thinking of doing but I wonder if the holes would be too deep for the seed?
I got the Walensee one last year. I have red clay soil. I’ve done a couple thousand sq ft with it. It works pretty well…nice deep cores. It tends to clog every 15o-200 sq ft and when you clear it a spray of ballistol in each barrel keeps it going best. And again before putting it away.
I do one single row, pick up cores by hand, put in a bucket, repeat. Spread seed Then use the cores and crumble em up as top dressing for any bare spots Water grass
5:58, you might want to suggest to John that because he has the angles pointing inwards it puts stress on the joint forcing both apart, if he welds the tangs with the angles facing front and away from the user it will be a fraction of the stress.
I've tried the red ones, they do get clogged easily and in the end broke fast. I have the swardman now, that is a beast. Does not get clogged even in thick clay soil.
I bought the walensee after seeing you use it on one of your vids. Did my front lawn about three weeks ago. Heavy clay and still went through like a hot knife even though the ground was bone dry. If you have a little more time on your hands it’s a brilliant bit of kit.
Thanks for this review. I found this looking up info on the Landzie, which is currently $150 in the US. The Sawrdman, which is not on the US Amazon site, is $119 from their site. The downside is a single tine from Swardman is $19, but the Landzie tines are $29 for three. $29 for three tines, or $10 per tine, is already highway robbery when you see you can buy replacement tines for motorized aerators at $90 for 30 of them, or $3 per tine. But $20 per tine is out of the question.
Hi Shaun. Knew I should have listened to you! The cheap aerator I bought, (£15 ) broke didn’t even get to finish the small back garden. Now I have to buy another one. Thanks for for the video, will get a more expensive one. 👍🏻
Having gotten rid of our lawn, two years ago, wild flowers and a wildlife pond has both to the eye, and the challenge of mower strimmer, feed, airate the green monster, proved a good move.
Hi Shaun, my lawn is a small lawn and I went for the yard butler about four years ago and it works a treat never had a problem with it. Keep up the great videos I really learned a lot watching them mate
I wanted a swardman but could not afford. So did a lot of searching and found the walansee which is coming today. I’m glad you reviewed it was being a good one. If it does break though I have the facility to repair it.
Again as always really helpful. My son has the one you discarded, I think I will go for the walensee as I only have a really small lawn that needs sorting. Your advice will save me money I am sure and confident I can do the job easier
Tell your son to cut off or flatten 2 or 3 of the prongs it will pierce the ground easier and if he dips the prongs in soapy water every 10 foot or so the tubes won't clog so much.
I allowed a gardening company to roll out grass on thick, clayish soil, inevitably turning to an armed concrete-like structure over time. Thanks for inspiration, the hollow aerators provide a good response to my situation. I’m considering the alternative use: gladly rid the cores (Somehow … - try not leave them on the surface) and use a rich, light, sandy top dressing mix to spread thereby refilling the holes. Wonder if my theory will work long term in practice…
It's all good.. Swapping clay soil pieces for regular soil.. And sometimes brushing compost in, and also spreading gypsum a few times a year will over about 18 months improve the upper layers of soil 😊
Thank for the video. After watching your weekend video I was contemplating buying the Swardman, however as I will only be using on 2 domestic lawns twice a year, I am now swaying towards the JNJ. If it breaks which, I have confidence it won’t and I cannot get someone in the workshop at work to repair then a new one would still work out more cost effective. Obviously if using it in a professional capacity, the thought process may be different.
Great review!! I've the Walensee which I'm impressed with and does my job. Best time to aerate is after heavy rain, makes the job so much easier. I'm trying to make lawn compost tea with fish fertiliser, seaweed fertiliser and molasses. See how it goes!!
Thanks for this - i already have the circular aerator but as you say it only leaves little groves which I think is good for seeding. Just ordered a core aerator
Hi Shaun. I deleted my previous comment about the difficulty using the manual aerator. Literally this morning, I had HSS deliver a petrol aerator and I had exactly the same problem trying to get it to sink in and drop plugs. It was really struggling and getting blocked with my hard dry soil. I soaked the lawn (no ban where I am) and now the machine is a lot better and it’s actually dropping plugs! 👍 my soil has always been very dry and I never get any thatch. I think when I thought my soil had been damp enough, it was only really the top half-cm … that must be why it was always so difficult.
Hi Ash, i am having the same problem meaning the plugs won’t come out - i have to use the screwdriver each and every time. What do i need to do? Do i need to soak the loan for a couple of hours or what? To me the soil looks very dark meaning there is some kind of a moisture but still can’t do the job. In the video the plugs are coming out every single time whilst on my side it’s the other way around:(
@@RareshCo hi Raresh. I had to really soak the lawn (a lot, and I mean a lot) and even then the manual aerator was really bad and unusable. My lawn is heavily compacted regardless of how much water goes in it. So the compacted wet soil was compacting inside the hollow tines almost every time. Even the HSS hired one had a struggle but it was going in and it was spitting out some plugs. The one I hired was big and heavy and went into the lawn ok, although I did go over the same area several times. By the end there were small plugs everywhere - the hired one seemed to produce much smaller plugs than the manual one. I will hire it again in spring and do the same. I’ll also add golf course sand to my lawn to try and add some softness to the lawn for future aerator. I think the guys who have success using the manuals already have very soft loose soil !!
I have a walensee and am really happy with it. Used on really clay compacted soil. Really, really hard if not wet enough ground but possible. But its far easier after the ground has had a good soak
Having just watched this video today, I looked at the links and found the Walansee at Amazon for £35.99 BUT advertised was a 50% off voucher. So I got it for £17.99! With current wet weatger will give this a go from tomorrow and hopefully sort out my lawn which is very compacted. Edit: I've just checked Amazon again after typing the above, and now see the price is £28.99 and with no voucher. Not sure if I'm seeing this on my account because I've already bought it, or maybe others may see the offer I saw (it's been an hour since my purchase)
@@LawnRight the Walansee does look well made. And affordable price too. But using it today proved my suspicion that coated metal would 'stick' more than stainless steel tines. The ground is sufficiently wet (UK Mar'24) and plugs coming out half the time and not half the time. I think main problem is thick clay (Hertfordshire) rather than pure soil. Every half row, to clear tines I'm using a 6mm hex shaft (end of paint stirrrer), water hose and wd40. I'm having to accept that quite a few holes are being made by spiking ground rather than hollowing out.
Thanks for the video? I was thinking that I need to get an aerator with at least 4 tines, but after seeing this I think 3 is plenty. Question - is there a minimum tine depth and diameter that you recommend? Some of the corers have tines with very small diameters, others have very short tines.
Hi so the aim is to break through the surface thatch and subsurface thatch.. Most tools will be sufficient so I've never give much thought.. I will say JNJ do one but out of stock I think which is decent.. Longer wider tines too
@@LawnRight ok thank you my lawn is clay based so should I do a full renovation now scarifier , aerate , seed, and top dress with 70/30 soil and sand mixture to help the drainage. Or should I just scarify, aerate and do a full renovation in spring when temps could be better. My lawn looks tired and we have a dog also
I've got the Swardman aerator and this Sunday will be the first time I use it. Hopefully the soil stay moist. I've used the cheap ones in the past (the red ones with 5 hollow tines), it wasn't bad at all but I want to create bigger deeper holes which what the Swardman gives when I tested it a few days ago.
I read someone to fill the holes with horticultural sand or grit for drainage if you have a wet lawn - I’m now debating this after watching this video as you said the soil loosens into the holes.
Excellent! Thank you. I had one of those ones you left lying next to the shed… I used it once and couldn’t get the cores out! Is it a good idea to sweep in some sharp Sand once the cores have been removed?
Thanks for the vid. I bought one of the "cheaper" ones with three tines but they clog with my heavy clay. I had oiled the inside of the tines and that helped but they ultimately still clog after a while. What worries me about your expensive / premium hollow tine forks is that the soil plug can't eject out the soil (given they eject sideways which would be under the soil) - you may as well be using a solid tine in my view.
Hi yeah it's a bit of a nightmare at times. The same happens when using machines with hollow tines..some will eject some will stay in the ground and some will stay in the tine. It's still aerating the ground, and with time the core in the tine will get pushed out. Personally I've never worried too much, I've just kept going.. anythings better than nothing I guess
@@LawnRight My fork does have removable hollow tines, and I'm tempted to modify them, but also worried I'll make things worse. My requirement for the hollow tined fork is of course aeration given my bad clay, but also to over time remove deep cores of clay so that organic matter can infiltrate deep into the ground and slowly remediate my poor clay soil. It is probably a 10 year project but if anything I have perseverance!
@@malcolmstevens2838 that's a great plan, really it is. Go get some humic acid and some gypsum for the next round of aeration.. the humic acid will slowly help change the clay to something more workable, and faster.. the gypsum helps to break up clay into smaller pieces.. so next time you deep aerate I'd def sprinkle some of each down the holes as well as compost.. for even deeper effect ts go get an auger bit and drill down with a hammer drill as far as you can..a couple of feet would be incredible but watch out for cables and drain pipes!.. for deeper holes I'd do the above butyoukay want to put a spot of gravel down first and / or then fill with good topsoil and all of the above
Hey Shaun great video. On your recommendation I bought the JNJ store aerator and it has been great. Can you tell me why are the rollers that you use where you fill it with compost then roll it to distribute the compost over the seeds so darn expensive!!!
Hi John glad you're having good results with the aerator. By the way your order was posted out hopefully no issues with royal mail this time. Yeah I "think" its because its imported as opposed to made in the uk so he would have his own costs on top. From a business owner viewpoint they are valuable as they make renovations quicker
Olá! Estou no Brasil é aqui não temos esta variedade de equipamentos. Mas, adorei as dicas e me ajudou bastante na escolha de um ferramenta que possa me ajudar com eficiência. Parabéns pelo videos....muito muito util. Obrigada!!!
I’ve been thinking about this, with the cheaper ones is weld a small piece of Solid Rebar in side the tube that’s is cut down and attach the stainless steel tines to the rebar that sticking out from the tube.
@@LawnRight It food for thought and being the cheap one are Shorter in height would accommodate the stainless steel tines extension if not able to weld you could Use federal bar and Lock it either side with nuts to take the tines.
I made my own because I have access to a welder but if you order your tines online you only want 3 and get a local company to weld one up it will only cost around £100 (buy side ejecting tines)
Hi mate I have followed the process with renovation my existing grass came through more than the new seed I think. But getting there have cut shorter then give it a fert I think 11-5-5-6 I think it is. Can I iron sulphate this soon to seaweed on top or leave and just seaweed for a good green up?
Hi Shaun. … What about the ones that are spring loaded and ejected the cores into a tray so they don’t have to be picked up or raked off? Keep the vids going… B🤓
I have watched several of these videos and have noticed that the expensive ones do not pull and eject any real quantity of plugs. In other words, they are not working effectively as good plug aerators. Look at your own video. The plugs ejected from the budget modes are far more substantial (longer and more mass by far) than the two premium models. I recommend that you do a simple 10 minute test with each model and weigh the ejected plugs from each. Also note the average plug length. I suspect that it will surprise you.
Helpful video, thanks. For the Swardman or the Landzie, are you inserting and pressing down at a slight angle, rather than perpendicular? It does LOOK as though you are.
I've never seen it done but maybe itll work.. Also inside the hollow tines there is 45 degree angled metal stopper stopping soil pushing higher up and ejecting out. If you just grind some holes maybe the soil will push higher up instead of out
😥 yeah ckay lawns will naturally cause more issues with them being so sticky. You'll need to poke out the clay and give them a dry and perhaps spray a little wd40 inside the tines, then somehow try and pick a drier day if possible.
hi sir, I have a back yard as same size as yours and I do like and enjoy the look of green lawns. Recently the lawn has yellow patches. I believe it is infected by disease. what can I do? what product should I use? I live in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Please help. Thank you
Hi :). It could be a number of things but the simplest answer is to put a good feed on and see how it looks in about 3 or 4 weeks. Thats a granular feed.. If you put a liquid feed on you'll see a faster green
Every six weeks I fertilize the lawn. I stop fertilizing it in mid July to the end of Aug. I also have sprinklers. Basically I take a good care of my lawn but I don't understand why it has yellow patches. I never overdo fertilizing either. I do believe it is infected by disease. Please help. Thank you.
Entirely up to you I guess.. With plenty of Time, you can do sections at a time.. For me I'd prob wnat the machine on anything over 10 sq metres as we have several jobs to fit in and time is of the essence
I just got Walensee aerator (WA). Here in Spain keeping a lawn is an uphill battle unless one spends a lot of $$$ to water it. Anyway, either the gardeners who installed our carpety grass last year cut some corners or the top soil they put under compacted a lot. I am hitting the clay quite often at 10cm or so. WA works okeyish but with no rain for months even after watering the deeper layers are dry. So it is a slow going, unclogging the tool ever 2-4 pokes. Question: does it make sense to try to fill in the holes wiith some loose organic material hoping that the holes will close slower(?)/not completely and h water will get deeper?
Hi.. good luck with the improvements. Putting compost in anyway is a fantastic idea itll I.prove the soil slowly too. But also it's fine for the holes to close because as they close the soil around each hole loosens ever so slightly improving things
There's a lot to like about the Landzie, but it looks like it was designed for someone about 8' tall. Both the handle and the step are way too high for a short person (like me) to ever use it comfortably. For the step, I suppose I could insert my foot inside the rectangle, but I would not want to be pulling up on a handle at that height for very long. It's unfortunate, because otherwise I might be very interested in it. Thanks for showing us these different tools. I've been using one made by Corona - it's nice to see what else is out there.
Hi Shaun. I have the roller spike Aerator. Is this OK for a clay lawn? I was thinking of getting the Lansie so I could get a deeper hole etc? Your advice is appreciated mate 👍
Honestly it's not really enough to help water drain down meaningfully especially through clay. With all the rain of recent, I imagine you've had. A very boggy lawn possibly with puddles.. A land I'd or may manual aerator will help the top few inches but not the deeper down stuff
Great video, Shaun! Thanks very much. I'm going to order the walensee today as i don't have very big lawns. Have been scarifying them for the last few years but never aerated, shall be interesting to see the results.. Do you recommend leaving the cores on the grass after aeration which a lot of sites suggest? Cheers 👍
Hi, When is best to Aerate my lawn please? After I’ve aerated the lawn should I reseed if so which product would you recommend and would I just overseed my lawn Many thanks
Hi Mark, aeration in autumn is useful to stop water logging over winter. Only seed if it needs it. Any general amenity would be fine for most lawns.. I'd usually apply a thin layer of compost on top too..then work that in and down to ground level with the back of a rake 👍
@@LawnRight thank you very much for advice, videos are great, only started getting into gardening and my lawn since my grandad passed away a year ago, now I’m obsessed with my lawn, so new to this, I have few thin patches in lawn and some weeds which i bugging me and some thin parts on lawn
I'm disabled, Can use right leg and right arm only. I can just about manage to use the spike roller aerator if I put a whole lot of body weight and lean into it to make the spokes go deep into the soil. With the aerators featured in this video (they look fabulous), my problem is that my balance isn't very good and the action of pushing down with one leg will probably make me keel over. Does anyone make garden tools for disabled people? One- handed shears, for example? Or wheelbarrows with joined up handles (like a supermarket shopping trolley)? Would really appreciate some advice.
Compliments on the video. What are your thoughts on the idea of deep aeration using a long drill bit? As a heavy clay lawn may need its drainage improving deeper than the length of these tines.
Pity I saw this video only now as I bought the manual rotating aerator. My garden has not been scarified and aerated for many years. In this case do you think it's better to use a hollow tine aerators that can penetrate deeper into the soil? My lawn isn't in the best of conditions. In addition, the lawn appears to be no more than 2 and a half inches thick and below that are large stones and concrete. So may be it's best I use the rotating aerator as the spikes are just over an inch long? I can envisage having to heavily scarifying the lawn becase I can see already how thick the thatch build up has become; which means plenty of top soil will be required.
Hi, any aeration is better than no aeration.. and with it being shallow soil and with all that underneath I can see how it will go quite brown in Summer. So Id simply do the rotating aerator for now.. however if thats one of the ones with simple spikes on it will still be good (and good enough for now) alongside a scarify. if you take your time and carefully tease the thatch out you may get away with just doing these 2.. you can always scsrify again in spring to take a bit more out
Brilliant video Shaun... I'm interested in the Landzie aerator as I also want to purchase the compost roller and lawn lute (something special about having a matching set) Can you get solid tines for it too, if not will another brand fit onto them? Also have you seen the rollaerator which is made from an old brake disk? I think it's only available over in america
Hi Jordan,I've asked garden imports. He doesnt have any yet but is planning to probably next spring.. yes saw the role aerator and looks pretty good..although I wonder about with the lack of weight
I wonder whether spikes really alleviate soil compaction... the soil is compacted by spiking it and then it relaxes into the narrow hole left behind. But a core aerator takes soul out and the surrounding soil settles into the hole resulting in less compaction.
Hi Dan its a bit late for me to do that now sadly but I wont rule it out for the future. I've heard mostly good things about it to date. I think like anything you should go easy with it and it should serve you well.as its cheap product it wont handle heavy thick stuff right off the hat so you would need to keep shaving layers off with it bit by bit
Hi it's a swardman, from gardenimports. This video will help if you want to take a quick look th-cam.com/video/evJW7lw_9Qk/w-d-xo.html and there is a link to the swardman in the description
Here are the links to the various tools in case you would like to check them out.
If you use any of the links below, I am an affiliate which means I get a small commission for each item sold (at no extra cost to you). This would be very kindly welcome to help support the channel that takes an incredible amount of work to produce.
Free shipping from gardenimports till 19th September by using this coupon code: Y4FKBQHW on Any Landzie Compost Spreader, Landzie Hollow Tine Aerator or Landzie Lawn Level
SWARDMAN manual aerator: www.gardenimports.co.uk/product/swardman-hollow-tine-fork-aerator/?ref=566
LANDZIE manual aerator: www.gardenimports.co.uk/product/landzie-hollow-tine-aerator/?ref=566
JNJ Store manual aerator:
Get 5% off: www.jnjstore.co.uk/?cc=LawnRight5
OR get FREE delivery worth £9.99! www.jnjstore.co.uk/?cc=LawnRightFREE
WALANSEE manual aerator: amzn.to/3LbepFN
Join my mailing list: lawnright.co.uk/diy/freebies/subscribe/
i got sick of Aerator getting blocked i ended up creating my own out of a few 2 by 4 and a old shovel handle and some gold corse machine airator tignes
Why didn't you just cut 2 or 3 of the prongs of the the 5 prongs models? I flattend 2 prongs on mine. It works much better and it still makes 5 holes in the ground.
I’m from the US and all the videos you put out helped me renovate my lawn last season. Just looking back at photos when I first moved in and now all the hard work paid off! Thanks!
Glad to help
We got our love for lawns from Europe. 👍
Hi shaun
On your recommendation I bought the ( j n j )budget one
And after using on two lawns approximately 70'x20'
It performed beautifully
I think the chances of the hollow tine breaking are pretty low
After all you're only going into soft soil
I recommend jeting through with the hosepipe immediately after use
It was easy to use and by the way I'm 75 years of age
All the very best
John s
Manchester
Great result. I must admit I was really impressed with both budget ones
Interesting to read, thanks for sharing your experience. The more expensive ones are usually not better, although the quality cannot always be checked on the photo.
LawnRight we actually have to thank :).
I just ordered one as well.
Two days ago I treated my fairly decent lawn, the grass is Barenbrug RPR sport and play. Only slightly in one direction with the blades through. All ready to go into the fall and winter. Now test the above. I'm curious! With a garden of 1600 square meters fun guaranteed!
DCM Lawn Fertilizer Autumn (organic-mineral fertilizer NPK (Mg) 8-4-15 (3) with iron Fe) Or the DCM Pur. During the spring and summer use DCM Vital Green.
The last one is something I can recommend to you, an absolute winner! Top quality.
Greetings from Brussels, Belgium.
Thanks so much. In this one video you managed to answer heaps of questions for a newcomer to lawn aeration. I now know what to look for and what to avoid.
Thanks 😊
I have one with a collector plate. I have such a compacted soggy lawn covered with worm casts that turn to mush in the rain. The collector plate is a godsend and avoids more mounds of mud on the grass.
Thank you for this (and you other videos)! After watching this I went with the Landzie aerator which I received today (ordered from you link with free shipping thanks to your code - thanks).
The reasons I prefered the Landzie to the Swardman are:
1. Angled tines, which I think will penetrate the ground more easily
2. Space to fit my foot in the frame, so I can push down from the middle rather than the sides
3. The price.
It feels very sturdy and seems very well made - I am impressed!
Anyway, ordering was the easy bit - now I have to use it, but will wait so some rain first to soften the ground.
Good luck when the time is right.. pop some music on and enjoy the workout 😁😁😁
After watching your video, I bought a Landzie Hollow aerator. Thank you for your hardwork to help me finalizing my choice.
Good choice!
Fun video. Thanks for making it! I'm in the US so I think I'll get the Swardman aerator.
Brilliant! Just what I needed to see right now with reseeding time approaching. Thank you!
All the best with it 😊
Are you going to do this and then seed so the seeds fall in the holes? Thats what I was thinking of doing but I wonder if the holes would be too deep for the seed?
I got the Walensee one last year. I have red clay soil. I’ve done a couple thousand sq ft with it. It works pretty well…nice deep cores. It tends to clog every 15o-200 sq ft and when you clear it a spray of ballistol in each barrel keeps it going best. And again before putting it away.
Thanks! Great tip and feedback! :)
I do one single row, pick up cores by hand, put in a bucket, repeat. Spread seed
Then use the cores and crumble em up as top dressing for any bare spots
Water grass
5:58, you might want to suggest to John that because he has the angles pointing inwards it puts stress on the joint forcing both apart, if he welds the tangs with the angles facing front and away from the user it will be a fraction of the stress.
Thanks ill pass that on
I've tried the red ones, they do get clogged easily and in the end broke fast. I have the swardman now, that is a beast. Does not get clogged even in thick clay soil.
always appreciate the videos. thanks again... Best wishes from Liverpool
I bought the walensee after seeing you use it on one of your vids. Did my front lawn about three weeks ago. Heavy clay and still went through like a hot knife even though the ground was bone dry. If you have a little more time on your hands it’s a brilliant bit of kit.
Thanks for the feedback 😊
We have heavy clay where we're at. I'm curious what became of all the holes created by the aerotor. Did they eventually "seal up"?
Just discovered you on TH-cam. Great videos! We’ll delivered! Good detail. Subscribed today. Thank you 😅
Thanks and welcome aboard!
Thanks for this review. I found this looking up info on the Landzie, which is currently $150 in the US. The Sawrdman, which is not on the US Amazon site, is $119 from their site.
The downside is a single tine from Swardman is $19, but the Landzie tines are $29 for three. $29 for three tines, or $10 per tine, is already highway robbery when you see you can buy replacement tines for motorized aerators at $90 for 30 of them, or $3 per tine. But $20 per tine is out of the question.
Hi Shaun. Knew I should have listened to you! The cheap aerator I bought, (£15 ) broke didn’t even get to finish the small back garden. Now I have to buy another one. Thanks for for the video, will get a more expensive one. 👍🏻
Nice one.. and oh no..!
I've learned so much from your vids...both new and older!
Thanks! Here to help!
Bought the Landzie with tines also. Thank you for the video.
You are so welcome! Have fun
Great video explaining all the differences between these aerators.
Thanks
No worries
Having gotten rid of our lawn, two years ago, wild flowers and a wildlife pond has both to the eye, and the
challenge of mower strimmer, feed, airate the green monster, proved a good move.
But you're watching and commenting on lawn care videos?
Thanks for the great review. I just ordered the Landzie and I hope it can handle our thick clay soil here in north Texas!
Cheers mate I was confused beforehand but you been a great help think I've made my mind up which one I'm getting
No worries!
So amazing are your explanations on your tools. I just find it fascinating. Thanks 👍
Glad you like them!
Thanks for the advise on the different aerators!! I'm looking to add a few putting hole top the lawn, can you recommend a grass type to use?
Bent grass is the one.. Can be cut super short even 4mm.. However there are some nice dwarf eyes that can tolerate it too
@@LawnRight Thank you, thats very helpful! Is there a supplier that you would recommend?
@@WayneJones-dk1ez hurrells seeds are good.. But also barenbrug are good too
@@LawnRight Thank you :)
Great explanation and very timely. My lawn has never been aerated, but it will be very soon.
Hi Shaun, my lawn is a small lawn and I went for the yard butler about four years ago and it works a treat never had a problem with it. Keep up the great videos I really learned a lot watching them mate
Thanks!
The issue with Yard Butler aerators is that the handle grips are so tiny.
No to mention no core being pulled out.. since you’re basically just piercing holes (compacting the area around the holes)) into your lawn.
I wanted a swardman but could not afford. So did a lot of searching and found the walansee which is coming today. I’m glad you reviewed it was being a good one. If it does break though I have the facility to repair it.
Again as always really helpful. My son has the one you discarded, I think I will go for the walensee as I only have a really small lawn that needs sorting. Your advice will save me money I am sure and confident I can do the job easier
Thanks!
Tell your son to cut off or flatten 2 or 3 of the prongs it will pierce the ground easier and if he dips the prongs in soapy water every 10 foot or so the tubes won't clog so much.
I allowed a gardening company to roll out grass on thick, clayish soil, inevitably turning to an armed concrete-like structure over time. Thanks for inspiration, the hollow aerators provide a good response to my situation. I’m considering the alternative use: gladly rid the cores (Somehow … - try not leave them on the surface) and use a rich, light, sandy top dressing mix to spread thereby refilling the holes. Wonder if my theory will work long term in practice…
It's all good.. Swapping clay soil pieces for regular soil.. And sometimes brushing compost in, and also spreading gypsum a few times a year will over about 18 months improve the upper layers of soil 😊
Thank for the video. After watching your weekend video I was contemplating buying the Swardman, however as I will only be using on 2 domestic lawns twice a year, I am now swaying towards the JNJ. If it breaks which, I have confidence it won’t and I cannot get someone in the workshop at work to repair then a new one would still work out more cost effective. Obviously if using it in a professional capacity, the thought process may be different.
Good choice! and definitely right if youre only doing 2 a year
I can spend the money saved on an electric scarifier too 😉.
Was the free shipping on JNJ aerator for limited time?
@@rustysmith8784 not sure.. has it expired? I can ask him if he is still offering it, or just drop him a message at www.jnjstore.co.uk/
4min love your videos auto follow and will look your business up look forward to learning more
Thank you! ☺️
Great video shaun
Cheers
Great review!! I've the Walensee which I'm impressed with and does my job. Best time to aerate is after heavy rain, makes the job so much easier. I'm trying to make lawn compost tea with fish fertiliser, seaweed fertiliser and molasses. See how it goes!!
Thanks for sharing! good luck!
Thanks for this - i already have the circular aerator but as you say it only leaves little groves which I think is good for seeding. Just ordered a core aerator
Hi Shaun. I deleted my previous comment about the difficulty using the manual aerator. Literally this morning, I had HSS deliver a petrol aerator and I had exactly the same problem trying to get it to sink in and drop plugs. It was really struggling and getting blocked with my hard dry soil. I soaked the lawn (no ban where I am) and now the machine is a lot better and it’s actually dropping plugs! 👍 my soil has always been very dry and I never get any thatch. I think when I thought my soil had been damp enough, it was only really the top half-cm … that must be why it was always so difficult.
Hi Ash that's awesome to hear! Thanks for the update!
Hi Ash, i am having the same problem meaning the plugs won’t come out - i have to use the screwdriver each and every time. What do i need to do? Do i need to soak the loan for a couple of hours or what? To me the soil looks very dark meaning there is some kind of a moisture but still can’t do the job. In the video the plugs are coming out every single time whilst on my side it’s the other way around:(
@@RareshCo hi Raresh. I had to really soak the lawn (a lot, and I mean a lot) and even then the manual aerator was really bad and unusable. My lawn is heavily compacted regardless of how much water goes in it. So the compacted wet soil was compacting inside the hollow tines almost every time. Even the HSS hired one had a struggle but it was going in and it was spitting out some plugs. The one I hired was big and heavy and went into the lawn ok, although I did go over the same area several times. By the end there were small plugs everywhere - the hired one seemed to produce much smaller plugs than the manual one. I will hire it again in spring and do the same. I’ll also add golf course sand to my lawn to try and add some softness to the lawn for future aerator. I think the guys who have success using the manuals already have very soft loose soil !!
@@WonPXL It's best to do after a good rain.
I have a walensee and am really happy with it. Used on really clay compacted soil. Really, really hard if not wet enough ground but possible. But its far easier after the ground has had a good soak
Bargain price as well ! 😊😊 cheers
Great review needed to know this since im in the market to purchase on
Having just watched this video today, I looked at the links and found the Walansee at Amazon for £35.99 BUT advertised was a 50% off voucher. So I got it for £17.99! With current wet weatger will give this a go from tomorrow and hopefully sort out my lawn which is very compacted.
Edit: I've just checked Amazon again after typing the above, and now see the price is £28.99 and with no voucher. Not sure if I'm seeing this on my account because I've already bought it, or maybe others may see the offer I saw (it's been an hour since my purchase)
Bet they took down the voucher real fast!
@@LawnRight the Walansee does look well made. And affordable price too. But using it today proved my suspicion that coated metal would 'stick' more than stainless steel tines. The ground is sufficiently wet (UK Mar'24) and plugs coming out half the time and not half the time. I think main problem is thick clay (Hertfordshire) rather than pure soil. Every half row, to clear tines I'm using a 6mm hex shaft (end of paint stirrrer), water hose and wd40. I'm having to accept that quite a few holes are being made by spiking ground rather than hollowing out.
@@joynul hi I think it's just like that for most tools.. Could be wrong. Even my machines do it sadly
Very nice demonstration helped me to choose
😊👍👍
Thanks
You're welcome 😊
Thanks for the video? I was thinking that I need to get an aerator with at least 4 tines, but after seeing this I think 3 is plenty. Question - is there a minimum tine depth and diameter that you recommend? Some of the corers have tines with very small diameters, others have very short tines.
Hi so the aim is to break through the surface thatch and subsurface thatch.. Most tools will be sufficient so I've never give much thought.. I will say JNJ do one but out of stock I think which is decent.. Longer wider tines too
Shaun, great video as ever thank you. Could you please do a what to do in autumn for the lawn video please.
Hi Dave, feel.fres to ask any questions in case I dont get chance 🙏🙏😊
@@LawnRight ok thank you my lawn is clay based so should I do a full renovation now scarifier , aerate , seed, and top dress with 70/30 soil and sand mixture to help the drainage. Or should I just scarify, aerate and do a full renovation in spring when temps could be better. My lawn looks tired and we have a dog also
Great video, just purchased the Walensee
Thanks
I've got the Swardman aerator and this Sunday will be the first time I use it. Hopefully the soil stay moist. I've used the cheap ones in the past (the red ones with 5 hollow tines), it wasn't bad at all but I want to create bigger deeper holes which what the Swardman gives when I tested it a few days ago.
Great stuff! Should be much better
Great review and insight into these hollow Tyne forks, thank you.
Thanks!
I read someone to fill the holes with horticultural sand or grit for drainage if you have a wet lawn - I’m now debating this after watching this video as you said the soil loosens into the holes.
I'd certainly add a little bit lower down but keep the top 2 thirds as soil/compost
@@LawnRight I debating to just leave it as holes as it’s clay and very compacted and hope it gives it room to loosen
Excellent video. Going for the Landzie.
Cheers Simon.. will def make life a little easier!
Very helpful video. Thanks for making 👍
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve made one that weights about 10kg Has replacement Tines just normal tools to change work great
👍😊
Moisture lever is key if it’s right it’s easy this year I had the best manual hollow core ever the moisture level was just perfect
Really does make a world of difference.. thanks!
Excellent! Thank you. I had one of those ones you left lying next to the shed… I used it once and couldn’t get the cores out!
Is it a good idea to sweep in some sharp
Sand once the cores have been removed?
Id prob go for horticultural sand for best practise if you wanted to, but personally I just use compost
Thanks for the vid. I bought one of the "cheaper" ones with three tines but they clog with my heavy clay. I had oiled the inside of the tines and that helped but they ultimately still clog after a while. What worries me about your expensive / premium hollow tine forks is that the soil plug can't eject out the soil (given they eject sideways which would be under the soil) - you may as well be using a solid tine in my view.
Hi yeah it's a bit of a nightmare at times. The same happens when using machines with hollow tines..some will eject some will stay in the ground and some will stay in the tine. It's still aerating the ground, and with time the core in the tine will get pushed out. Personally I've never worried too much, I've just kept going.. anythings better than nothing I guess
@@LawnRight My fork does have removable hollow tines, and I'm tempted to modify them, but also worried I'll make things worse.
My requirement for the hollow tined fork is of course aeration given my bad clay, but also to over time remove deep cores of clay so that organic matter can infiltrate deep into the ground and slowly remediate my poor clay soil. It is probably a 10 year project but if anything I have perseverance!
@@malcolmstevens2838 that's a great plan, really it is. Go get some humic acid and some gypsum for the next round of aeration.. the humic acid will slowly help change the clay to something more workable, and faster.. the gypsum helps to break up clay into smaller pieces.. so next time you deep aerate I'd def sprinkle some of each down the holes as well as compost.. for even deeper effect ts go get an auger bit and drill down with a hammer drill as far as you can..a couple of feet would be incredible but watch out for cables and drain pipes!.. for deeper holes I'd do the above butyoukay want to put a spot of gravel down first and / or then fill with good topsoil and all of the above
Subbed, great content and spot on advice. Thanks buddy.
Thanks!
Hi - Great video. I have a, probably silly, question. What do you do with the cores? Do you leave them on the lawn or put them in the compost bin?
Hi entirely a personal choice 😊. Personally I clear them up and aks if the customer needs them for anything otherwise it's in green waste usually
Hey Shaun great video. On your recommendation I bought the JNJ store aerator and it has been great. Can you tell me why are the rollers that you use where you fill it with compost then roll it to distribute the compost over the seeds so darn expensive!!!
Hi John glad you're having good results with the aerator. By the way your order was posted out hopefully no issues with royal mail this time. Yeah I "think" its because its imported as opposed to made in the uk so he would have his own costs on top. From a business owner viewpoint they are valuable as they make renovations quicker
Thanks love very helpful , much appreciated
Great video. Followed the JNJ link but unfortunately they have sold out!
Hopefully back in stock soon
Have you seen the ones with the collector bucket for the cores...i bet they save a lot of work 😊
I really like the idea.. Really like it..
Olá! Estou no Brasil é aqui não temos esta variedade de equipamentos. Mas, adorei as dicas e me ajudou bastante na escolha de um ferramenta que possa me ajudar com eficiência. Parabéns pelo videos....muito muito util. Obrigada!!!
Olá, e muito obrigado! Boa sorte com sua grama e espero que corra bem! Tudo de bom! shaun
Great video
Thanks
I bought the landzie, and it bent at the single bar where it goes to a fork-not very bad but it did bend.
It’s not easy work
I’ve been thinking about this, with the cheaper ones is weld a small piece of Solid Rebar in side the tube that’s is cut down and attach the stainless steel tines to the rebar that sticking out from the tube.
Interesting idea....! Like it
@@LawnRight It food for thought and being the cheap one are Shorter in height would accommodate the stainless steel tines extension if not able to weld you could Use federal bar and Lock it either side with nuts to take the tines.
Can recommend the swardman aerator fantastic 👍
😊👍
I've been using the sneeboer for about 5 or 6 years. It's made beautifully but it can clog on more heayy soil.
👍 nice.. havent heard of that one before
I made my own because I have access to a welder but if you order your tines online you only want 3 and get a local company to weld one up it will only cost around £100 (buy side ejecting tines)
Thanks for the tip!
Hi mate I have followed the process with renovation my existing grass came through more than the new seed I think. But getting there have cut shorter then give it a fert I think 11-5-5-6 I think it is. Can I iron sulphate this soon to seaweed on top or leave and just seaweed for a good green up?
Hi I'd just do the seaweed for now and look at a very very weak iron later in summer if desired but otherwise autumn for that
Thanks very much mate. Appreciate it
Nice video!
Excellent video
👍😊🙏🙏
Hi Shaun. …
What about the ones that are spring loaded and ejected the cores into a tray so they don’t have to be picked up or raked off?
Keep the vids going… B🤓
They look good
When do you think would be the most opportune time to do this to your lawn? Right after it rains? When it’s dry? Fall/Spring? Thanks 🙏
Fall or spring.. a touch of moisture in the soil is ideal 😊
I have watched several of these videos and have noticed that the expensive ones do not pull and eject any real quantity of plugs. In other words, they are not working effectively as good plug aerators. Look at your own video. The plugs ejected from the budget modes are far more substantial (longer and more mass by far) than the two premium models.
I recommend that you do a simple 10 minute test with each model and weigh the ejected plugs from each. Also note the average plug length. I suspect that it will surprise you.
Helpful video, thanks.
For the Swardman or the Landzie, are you inserting and pressing down at a slight angle, rather than perpendicular?
It does LOOK as though you are.
Hi.. I'm honestly just pushing down without much thought. 😊
@@LawnRight 😂👏👏👍
can I not just buy the budget one and modify it with a grinder to make the spikes have side hole?
I've never seen it done but maybe itll work.. Also inside the hollow tines there is 45 degree angled metal stopper stopping soil pushing higher up and ejecting out. If you just grind some holes maybe the soil will push higher up instead of out
I have the walansee. Got through about a quarter of my lawn (it’s 40m2 in total) before it got completely clogged with clay, couldn’t get the clay out
😥 yeah ckay lawns will naturally cause more issues with them being so sticky. You'll need to poke out the clay and give them a dry and perhaps spray a little wd40 inside the tines, then somehow try and pick a drier day if possible.
hi sir,
I have a back yard as same size as yours and I do like and enjoy the look of green lawns. Recently the lawn has yellow patches. I believe it is infected by disease. what can I do? what product should I use? I live in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Please help. Thank you
Hi :). It could be a number of things but the simplest answer is to put a good feed on and see how it looks in about 3 or 4 weeks. Thats a granular feed.. If you put a liquid feed on you'll see a faster green
@@LawnRight I did put Scott fertilizer like three weeks ago. Is it fine to put granular now? Will it burn my lawn?
Every six weeks I fertilize the lawn. I stop fertilizing it in mid July to the end of Aug. I also have sprinklers. Basically I take a good care of my lawn but I don't understand why it has yellow patches. I never overdo fertilizing either. I do believe it is infected by disease. Please help. Thank you.
@@LawnRight I also have charcoal (carbon) granular. Should I put it?
Was about to buy the JNJ - they're not selling atm, bummer!
Walansee is good
Have you known any of them to break? And if so, how often does that happen?
No not for me 😊
What is the maximum size lawn you could use this on before considering a petrol one? Thanks.
Entirely up to you I guess.. With plenty of Time, you can do sections at a time.. For me I'd prob wnat the machine on anything over 10 sq metres as we have several jobs to fit in and time is of the essence
I just got Walensee aerator (WA). Here in Spain keeping a lawn is an uphill battle unless one spends a lot of $$$ to water it.
Anyway, either the gardeners who installed our carpety grass last year cut some corners or the top soil they put under compacted a lot. I am hitting the clay quite often at 10cm or so. WA works okeyish but with no rain for months even after watering the deeper layers are dry. So it is a slow going, unclogging the tool ever 2-4 pokes.
Question: does it make sense to try to fill in the holes wiith some loose organic material hoping that the holes will close slower(?)/not completely and h water will get deeper?
Hi.. good luck with the improvements. Putting compost in anyway is a fantastic idea itll I.prove the soil slowly too. But also it's fine for the holes to close because as they close the soil around each hole loosens ever so slightly improving things
There's a lot to like about the Landzie, but it looks like it was designed for someone about 8' tall. Both the handle and the step are way too high for a short person (like me) to ever use it comfortably. For the step, I suppose I could insert my foot inside the rectangle, but I would not want to be pulling up on a handle at that height for very long.
It's unfortunate, because otherwise I might be very interested in it.
Thanks for showing us these different tools. I've been using one made by Corona - it's nice to see what else is out there.
I'm only short. Hadnt really considered various heights but definitely interesting
Hi Shaun. I have the roller spike Aerator. Is this OK for a clay lawn? I was thinking of getting the Lansie so I could get a deeper hole etc? Your advice is appreciated mate 👍
Honestly it's not really enough to help water drain down meaningfully especially through clay. With all the rain of recent, I imagine you've had. A very boggy lawn possibly with puddles.. A land I'd or may manual aerator will help the top few inches but not the deeper down stuff
@LawnRight Thanks again Shaun. I'm thinking I'll get the swordman tool. Appreciate your advice again 👍. Take it easy matey 😊
Clean out and spray some penetrating fluid aswell to help prevent rust and keep it lubricated after every use
Would have liked to see you back in the day with them 2 early red one's 1 in each hand lol🤔
Ha ha lol. To be fair I used them once and that was enough! 🤣
Great video, Shaun! Thanks very much. I'm going to order the walensee today as i don't have very big lawns. Have been scarifying them for the last few years but never aerated, shall be interesting to see the results.. Do you recommend leaving the cores on the grass after aeration which a lot of sites suggest? Cheers 👍
Hi.. If it's very sandy soil you can leave them on as they'll break down with the mower.. Otherwise I pick them up 😊
Thanks for the reply 👍
Can you do this for water retention in the yard?
It will help the top few inches but not the deeper down issues
Hi,
When is best to Aerate my lawn please? After I’ve aerated the lawn should I reseed if so which product would you recommend and would I just overseed my lawn
Many thanks
Hi Mark, aeration in autumn is useful to stop water logging over winter. Only seed if it needs it. Any general amenity would be fine for most lawns.. I'd usually apply a thin layer of compost on top too..then work that in and down to ground level with the back of a rake 👍
@@LawnRight thank you very much for advice, videos are great, only started getting into gardening and my lawn since my grandad passed away a year ago, now I’m obsessed with my lawn, so new to this,
I have few thin patches in lawn and some weeds which i bugging me and some thin parts on lawn
I'm disabled, Can use right leg and right arm only. I can just about manage to use the spike roller aerator if I put a whole lot of body weight and lean into it to make the spokes go deep into the soil. With the aerators featured in this video (they look fabulous), my problem is that my balance isn't very good and the action of pushing down with one leg will probably make me keel over. Does anyone make garden tools for disabled people? One- handed shears, for example? Or wheelbarrows with joined up handles (like a supermarket shopping trolley)?
Would really appreciate some advice.
Just a quick question, what wetting agent do you recommend and where do you buy it from. Love your videos 👍
Hi any will do. I do sell my own called emerald green on my website but I'm a bit biased 😊.. any is fine tho seriously
Compliments on the video. What are your thoughts on the idea of deep aeration using a long drill bit? As a heavy clay lawn may need its drainage improving deeper than the length of these tines.
Hi Adam, thanks!. I've looked into this before and deep drilled a clay lawn ).. it def works, add in regular humicacid and compost also
Similarly I keep meaning to ask about the vid where you deep aerated by drilling
Heres the video I did the drilling th-cam.com/video/wcXuRZ7MK3g/w-d-xo.html
Have you ever used the Yard Butler one. Just wondering how you feel about that.
Hi.. haven't but have heard good things about it
What are your thoughts on the Kent & Stowe model?
Hello.. I'm afraid I've not used it sorry
Pity I saw this video only now as I bought the manual rotating aerator. My garden has not been scarified and aerated for many years. In this case do you think it's better to use a hollow tine aerators that can penetrate deeper into the soil? My lawn isn't in the best of conditions. In addition, the lawn appears to be no more than 2 and a half inches thick and below that are large stones and concrete. So may be it's best I use the rotating aerator as the spikes are just over an inch long? I can envisage having to heavily scarifying the lawn becase I can see already how thick the thatch build up has become; which means plenty of top soil will be required.
Hi, any aeration is better than no aeration.. and with it being shallow soil and with all that underneath I can see how it will go quite brown in Summer. So Id simply do the rotating aerator for now.. however if thats one of the ones with simple spikes on it will still be good (and good enough for now) alongside a scarify. if you take your time and carefully tease the thatch out you may get away with just doing these 2.. you can always scsrify again in spring to take a bit more out
@@LawnRight Thanks you! When is the best time to overseed?
@@Fuitallis hi fall/autumn or spring are the best chances although success hs been achieved in different situations also.. but less guaranteed
The ones with closed holes is a pain, new ones work for few round. Then it stop creating core but just make holes. Only the premium ones left to try.
Also note its important to clean them after each use with the hosepipe,and can sometimes squirt some wd40 to help inside each tine
Brilliant video Shaun... I'm interested in the Landzie aerator as I also want to purchase the compost roller and lawn lute (something special about having a matching set)
Can you get solid tines for it too, if not will another brand fit onto them?
Also have you seen the rollaerator which is made from an old brake disk? I think it's only available over in america
Hi Jordan,I've asked garden imports. He doesnt have any yet but is planning to probably next spring.. yes saw the role aerator and looks pretty good..although I wonder about with the lack of weight
Glad someone has done this in uk great review
Thank you!
I wonder whether spikes really alleviate soil compaction... the soil is compacted by spiking it and then it relaxes into the narrow hole left behind. But a core aerator takes soul out and the surrounding soil settles into the hole resulting in less compaction.
They will help a bit allowing water to penetrate deeper. Not necessarily perfect but will provide some help 😊
Hey can you possibly review the scarifying tool from Screwfix? It is electric, heard mixed things about it!
Hi Dan its a bit late for me to do that now sadly but I wont rule it out for the future. I've heard mostly good things about it to date. I think like anything you should go easy with it and it should serve you well.as its cheap product it wont handle heavy thick stuff right off the hat so you would need to keep shaving layers off with it bit by bit
Didn't get the name of the premiun one of stainless steel and haven't found the links...and someone mentioned a code. Help! Thanx!
Hi it's a swardman, from gardenimports. This video will help if you want to take a quick look th-cam.com/video/evJW7lw_9Qk/w-d-xo.html and there is a link to the swardman in the description