This thing is awesome. No more chiseling hinges for me. Super easy and really fast. Was more than happy with it. Template can be found here: amzn.to/3efBqZx . Like and Subscribe. Take Care.
I was sweating and chiseling with a dull chisel and realized I was messing my door up and before I did any further damage I went on TH-cam to see what was out there and found this video and this was a life (door) saver. Went on Amazon and bought the template and getting the router tomorrow at Lowes or HD.
Thanks for this video. I have the Ryobi template on my closet for over a year now. I have been wanting all new doors but didn't want to pay $100.00 each to have installed. You just saved me a bunch of money. 😊
This template is just for the door and will not mount properly on a door frame/jamb to cut the hinges. There are other tools on the market that can do door door frame hinges like this one: amzn.to/3CzMJWc
If you do a lot of doors, you can make your own jig out of a 1 inch thick board. Leave enough on each end of your cutout to clamp it to your door janb and still clear your router. I always guage my depth of my hinge thickness on a trial piece before cutting the original.
There are examples on the web of how the door jamb hinge template can be made. I find it works if you want to cut them on a door facing that is already up but needs hinge slots. Just take the door facing off so the jig can be clamped square to the edge of the facing. Put a couple of screws through the side of your jig and screw it to the edge of the jamb.
So it only miters the door? Without the jig for the jamb/frame it is not going to complete the job, in this case one is better off buying a Porter Cable jig which does both or making your own from wood. My question is how many people only need to do half the job? I always have needed miter both door and jamb.
I rarely need to do the frame, but it's really what you are trying to do. If you are installing new construction and not buying the set, I guess you would need to do both. This was a replacement door that already had the frame installed. I just had to match the hinges to the frame. When I install a new door, I usually buy the door and frame set.
I couldn't get the router bit out of the template so I just used my Diablo 1/2" bit (which is the same as the Ryobi mortise bit) but the bit must be slightly different b/c after I cut my hinge mortise, it left about a 1/16 of wood on all sides. I dont know why b/c they are technically the same dimension of a bit. I tried fitting the hinge in the hole but it wouldn't fit so I had to mortise each hinge then shift the template about a 1/16th to be able to get to cut out the last little bit. Also, the hinge depth was too shallow, so I had to make my depth slightly deeper than what the gauge was showing. It's a good tool but it's made for the router bit that they send with the template. If you're using another router bit you probably won't get the same results.
@@SeidelRanch No I was wrong. My Diablo bit has a bearing that is an 1/8 larger diameter than the cutting diameter of the bit. Thats why it wouldn't cut all the way up to the edges of the template.
I actually put the new door in the door frame and marked the door hinges once I had the door exactly how I wanted it. Of course you could measure the frame and add the right gaps, but it was easier to set it and mark it.
That is a good question. All mine have fit the template well. I would probably just go one size larger and center the hinge. If it looked bad I would fill the gap, but probably I would just let it be.
What about if interior doors won’t latch correctly when you put them back on? I have several with that issue after we had them painted. Do I adjust the hinges or the striker plate? Thoughts?
Well if they won't latch now after being painted, then the striker plate needs to be moved to account for the extra thickness. I don't think moving the hinges will help if you are putting them back in the same spot they were in. Sometimes the thickness of the added paint will keep the door from going that tiny amount more to fully reach the striker plate hole. Trying to move anything just a little that already has screw holes drilled is a real pain too. You might be better off drilling new holes on the striker plate so it will not try to fall into the old screw holes.
The issue with a drill is you have no good way of adjusting the depth of the cut. Plus that would be pretty awkward to cut with. I think I would pick up one of those cheap Harbor Freight trim routers (about $30) before I would use a drill. Maybe a Dremel tool could do it, but not sure.
That is a good question. I guess if I did this type of work for a living I would have to think of the time involved. Probably $50 or so per door. That is just a guess.
This thing is awesome. No more chiseling hinges for me. Super easy and really fast. Was more than happy with it. Template can be found here: amzn.to/3efBqZx . Like and Subscribe. Take Care.
I was sweating and chiseling with a dull chisel and realized I was messing my door up and before I did any further damage I went on TH-cam to see what was out there and found this video and this was a life (door) saver. Went on Amazon and bought the template and getting the router tomorrow at Lowes or HD.
Oh man, I know what you mean. I use to use a hammer and chisel before I got this. Now it's so easy. Good luck on the project.
Can this be used on the door jambs . Before their installed
Damn, me too. Spent over an hour chiseling an ugly notch that still didn’t fit correctly. Ordering this now lol.
Thanks for this video. I have the Ryobi template on my closet for over a year now. I have been wanting all new doors but didn't want to pay $100.00 each to have installed. You just saved me a bunch of money. 😊
Glad it was helpful!
That's a great jig. Seeing how easy and clean the cut was makes me want to buy that handheld router also!
I have to say I do love my Ridgid router. And it has a lifetime warranty. The only place I have found these tools is at Home Depot.
Those look great. I don't mess with doors that much, but if I did I would definitely have one of those.
Yeah, why better than a chisel. That is how I use to do it and it was pretty sloppy.
Just bought a router to do 2 doors i just like how clean it cuts and I have been wanting one either way so win win
Totally a win win. I do love the way the cuts come out.
Thank you for helping me! Was looking everywhere to figure out the depth adjustment!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching.
I recommend placing your hinge in there before removing the device, just to be sure
Great tip. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing. Made my day
Glad you enjoyed it
AWESOME. THANK YOU!!!!!!
You're welcome! Glad you liked it.
Very nice. Thanks for the video. Heading to buy this hinge jig
Hope you enjoy it!
Great video - thanks heaps!
Glad it was helpful!
thanks. well explained.
Glad it was helpful!
Chiseling hinges is awful😂😂 this thing is amazing😂
100% agree. Will not be chiseling hinges ever again.
Can one do the frame with this tool? If so, are you able to do a part 2?
This template is just for the door and will not mount properly on a door frame/jamb to cut the hinges. There are other tools on the market that can do door door frame hinges like this one: amzn.to/3CzMJWc
@@SeidelRanch Thanks anyway but it doesn’t appear to have the potential to work within the mounted door jamb. Had to go old school with a chisel.
If you do a lot of doors, you can make your own jig out of a 1 inch thick board. Leave enough on each end of your cutout to clamp it to your door janb and still clear your router. I always guage my depth of my hinge thickness on a trial piece before cutting the original.
There are examples on the web of how the door jamb hinge template can be made. I find it works if you want to cut them on a door facing that is already up but needs hinge slots. Just take the door facing off so the jig can be clamped square to the edge of the facing. Put a couple of screws through the side of your jig and screw it to the edge of the jamb.
So it only miters the door? Without the jig for the jamb/frame it is not going to complete the job, in this case one is better off buying a Porter Cable jig which does both or making your own from wood. My question is how many people only need to do half the job? I always have needed miter both door and jamb.
I rarely need to do the frame, but it's really what you are trying to do. If you are installing new construction and not buying the set, I guess you would need to do both. This was a replacement door that already had the frame installed. I just had to match the hinges to the frame. When I install a new door, I usually buy the door and frame set.
I couldn't get the router bit out of the template so I just used my Diablo 1/2" bit (which is the same as the Ryobi mortise bit) but the bit must be slightly different b/c after I cut my hinge mortise, it left about a 1/16 of wood on all sides. I dont know why b/c they are technically the same dimension of a bit. I tried fitting the hinge in the hole but it wouldn't fit so I had to mortise each hinge then shift the template about a 1/16th to be able to get to cut out the last little bit. Also, the hinge depth was too shallow, so I had to make my depth slightly deeper than what the gauge was showing. It's a good tool but it's made for the router bit that they send with the template. If you're using another router bit you probably won't get the same results.
That is good to know. Thanks.
@@SeidelRanch No I was wrong. My Diablo bit has a bearing that is an 1/8 larger diameter than the cutting diameter of the bit. Thats why it wouldn't cut all the way up to the edges of the template.
How to keep the router bit from cutting into the plastic template?
If you are using the one it comes with, it has a bearing that is a little wider than the bit that lets it roll smoothly on the template.
How do you measure the distance from the top and bottome of the door so it lines up with the location on the jamb?😊
I actually put the new door in the door frame and marked the door hinges once I had the door exactly how I wanted it. Of course you could measure the frame and add the right gaps, but it was easier to set it and mark it.
What if your hinge isnt in the range as they only have 4 settings . What can you do if it falls between 4 and 5 inches ?
That is a good question. All mine have fit the template well. I would probably just go one size larger and center the hinge. If it looked bad I would fill the gap, but probably I would just let it be.
What about if interior doors won’t latch correctly when you put them back on? I have several with that issue after we had them painted. Do I adjust the hinges or the striker plate? Thoughts?
Well if they won't latch now after being painted, then the striker plate needs to be moved to account for the extra thickness. I don't think moving the hinges will help if you are putting them back in the same spot they were in. Sometimes the thickness of the added paint will keep the door from going that tiny amount more to fully reach the striker plate hole. Trying to move anything just a little that already has screw holes drilled is a real pain too. You might be better off drilling new holes on the striker plate so it will not try to fall into the old screw holes.
What tool are you using to cut it out?
That is a Ridgid Trim Router. Just a small hand held router.
Can it also be used to cut the hinge in the door frame?
It's not meant for that. There is another jig to do that I believe.
@@SeidelRanch Great video. Do you have the link for the other jig? Thanks!
Where were you for my last door project. Sigh...
But the next one will be awesome.
What model is the ridgid router?
It's this one: amzn.to/3PiKM9l
Can u use a drill to use the router to cut it down ? Or does it need to be what u used? Also great video very helpful!
The issue with a drill is you have no good way of adjusting the depth of the cut. Plus that would be pretty awkward to cut with. I think I would pick up one of those cheap Harbor Freight trim routers (about $30) before I would use a drill. Maybe a Dremel tool could do it, but not sure.
I tried the harbor freight trim router and the shank for the actual bit is too small for the router, it will not tighten enough to hold the bit.
How much would you charge to do this job?
That is a good question. I guess if I did this type of work for a living I would have to think of the time involved. Probably $50 or so per door. That is just a guess.
@@SeidelRanch thank you so much
what is the router you use?
I used this router: www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-5-5-Amp-Compact-Fixed-Base-Corded-Router-R24012/100337039
Useless advertisement for tool. How do you measure where to cut dados without "old door"? How do you cut door hinged on right versus left?
With a tape measure..
You measure the door frame. Right vs left is based on your door swing.