The music at the end is "Music to leave your comment by" 🥳 I like what Mark James said about the fine steel wool for getting that dull look. Obviously, it's not a very visible spot, so it's not something I would lose sleep over. However, the customer should be exceedingly happy and satisfied with that work. You are the Rembrandt of guitar repair! Definitely one of the masters!
Great video, picked up some new techniques. Maybe one hint,if you don’t mind, when sanding after all the big nuisances are gone use longer strokes so the scratches blend in with the grain not creating an island you eventually have to cover.. thanks for the insights and the patience. And the end song.
Timely repair tip as I need to do a minor finish repair on my Martin. You question about the cloudiness. Try a thin layer of the cheapest superglue followed by a super cheap accelerator. That combination should result is a cloudy finish. Not talking from experience, but I have seen superglue turn cloudy after being hit with a cheap accelerator. Just a thought.
Amazing work and so much patience! as you say at 28:50 it's sometimes too much work for what these guitars cost, I also repair guitars and I only have these kind of repairs for people who have a sentimental attachment to the instrument as most of the times the cost of repairing them is greater to what they cost, I agree a complete sanding and refinishing would have been better and quicker with a nicer clear coat finish, although I prefer Satin finish for these guitars, Thanks for the great video, I just subscribed to your channel
Hi, nice video. Very good repair. The cloudiness you talk about is not only on Japanese guitars, but also on Spanish guitars. It seems it has to do with temperature of the wood and laquer when it is sprayed on the guitar.
40,50yrs ago I saw a Spanish guitar builder holding a guitar spray with a pneumatic spray gun. In the heat of day, holding it by its neck, outside. All the finished guitars in his shop looked great. Allround professionals
Hi, try fine wire wool grade 0000. To dull the gloss. I was puzzled why you use paper to apply the poly. A squirrel hair brush/ mop would give you more control. Have you tried mixing Earth pigments in the shellac. Well done though👍
I work on mostly inexpensive guitars with poly finishes and I agree, to fix that finish would require a refinish. At least a refinish of the sides. Personally with those cuts through to the second layer of the plywood, I would not have expected your repair to turn out as good as it did. Great job. I could not have fixed that spot as well as you did. What markjames9487 posted sounds plausible. As fas as paper towel VS brush for leveling, I do like the paper towel. Getting a finish perfectly level is not easy. I wonder if sandwiching a small square of paper towel between a couple of pieces of popsicle stick, with just about a half inch edge of paper towel protruding past the edge of the sticks, might hold the paper towel flatter. I am going to try that.
12 days? Even if you’ve only spent an hour a day on that guitar, you’re over $1,000 in repairs. The owner must have some massive emotional connection to it. And, wait, I’m typing while watching….wood screws gouged the side like that??? I’m speechless.
The repair itself is almost invisible but the color change around, due to sanding, don't want to cease to show of...Must be very difficult to decide it's good enough...
I inherited a Yamaha from the 60s with a badly damaged spruce top. I know it's not with much, so repairing it is purely a learning experience. Someone scratched their name into it and burned it with a lighter. All damage goes through the finish into the bare wood. Any suggestions on how to approach it? Any feedback welcome!
I’m unable to provide feedback without seeing it in person but if you want to email some photos and your contact info I’ll take a look and see. Thanks In Advance!
Although it's sort of counterintuitive, as a hazy finish is often what you want to avoid, it generally occurs in the presence of high humidity. And airborne applications tend to capture and trap that humidity causing a cloudy finish. So if you had a humidifier running nearby and sprayed the finish, it would probably be more likely to haze and match better. (meh, right)
I have to do a similar finish repair on my guitar. It's an area about 1" by 1". I cleaned the spot up down to bare wood and feathered the edges of the existing finish. It's an older acoustic with a spruce top that has naturally aged "yellow" nitro lacquer finish. I stained the sanded part to match the top and it came out as about as close as its going to get. I need to bring the sanded area back up to meet the existing finish. I'm going to use the Glu Boost to build it up. I noticed you kind of feathered it on in coats with a paper towel.....do you find this works better than a brush ?? Also after the Glu Boost and final sanding do you think I should spray a couple coats of lacquer for the final coat to hopefully "melt" the edge of where the sanding stopped ?? Or should I just buff out the Glu Boost. I've done this with regular stew mac cryo on some drop fills and noticed there is usually a line "outline" that shows. I'm wondering if a new lacquer coat would blend it better. Thoughts ? Thanks !!
Your restoration was great.
Good job! Finishes and finish repairs are the bane of my existence 😂
Especially likin’ the Ian Anderson vibe at the end. Near perfect version!
The music at the end is "Music to leave your comment by" 🥳 I like what Mark James said about the fine steel wool for getting that dull look. Obviously, it's not a very visible spot, so it's not something I would lose sleep over. However, the customer should be exceedingly happy and satisfied with that work. You are the Rembrandt of guitar repair! Definitely one of the masters!
Nice sounding Tak. Well done repair.
Nice Jethro Tull singing at the end!
Guitar sounds good.
Great work
Thank You Kindly!!
Great video, picked up some new techniques. Maybe one hint,if you don’t mind, when sanding after all the big nuisances are gone use longer strokes so the scratches blend in with the grain not creating an island you eventually have to cover.. thanks for the insights and the patience.
And the end song.
Great idea
Amazing work.
Thank you! Cheers!
Pretty close to a miracle anyway. I enjoy your finish tricks. Learning new ones from you. Cheers.
Great tip with simple green
Timely repair tip as I need to do a minor finish repair on my Martin. You question about the cloudiness. Try a thin layer of the cheapest superglue followed by a super cheap accelerator. That combination should result is a cloudy finish. Not talking from experience, but I have seen superglue turn cloudy after being hit with a cheap accelerator. Just a thought.
Jethro tull, yeah !!!
Nice job. Bets are that it passed the 3 foot test and then some.
Nice save!
Amazing work and so much patience! as you say at 28:50 it's sometimes too much work for what these guitars cost, I also repair guitars and I only have these kind of repairs for people who have a sentimental attachment to the instrument as most of the times the cost of repairing them is greater to what they cost, I agree a complete sanding and refinishing would have been better and quicker with a nicer clear coat finish, although I prefer Satin finish for these guitars, Thanks for the great video, I just subscribed to your channel
Thank You 🙏
Welcome to the channel!
Hi, nice video. Very good repair. The cloudiness you talk about is not only on Japanese guitars, but also on Spanish guitars. It seems it has to do with temperature of the wood and laquer when it is sprayed on the guitar.
Thanks for the info!
40,50yrs ago I saw a Spanish guitar builder holding a guitar spray with a pneumatic spray gun. In the heat of day, holding it by its neck, outside. All the finished guitars in his shop looked great. Allround professionals
Hi, try fine wire wool grade 0000. To dull the gloss. I was puzzled why you use paper to apply the poly. A squirrel hair brush/ mop would give you more control. Have you tried mixing Earth pigments in the shellac. Well done though👍
I work on mostly inexpensive guitars with poly finishes and I agree, to fix that finish would require a refinish. At least a refinish of the sides. Personally with those cuts through to the second layer of the plywood, I would not have expected your repair to turn out as good as it did. Great job. I could not have fixed that spot as well as you did. What markjames9487 posted sounds plausible. As fas as paper towel VS brush for leveling, I do like the paper towel. Getting a finish perfectly level is not easy. I wonder if sandwiching a small square of paper towel between a couple of pieces of popsicle stick, with just about a half inch edge of paper towel protruding past the edge of the sticks, might hold the paper towel flatter. I am going to try that.
Them Takamine are worth the effort to restore imo...RocknRollflat5
12 days? Even if you’ve only spent an hour a day on that guitar, you’re over $1,000 in repairs. The owner must have some massive emotional connection to it. And, wait, I’m typing while watching….wood screws gouged the side like that??? I’m speechless.
Nice job
Ahh...finishing up with JT. :-)
Cloudy Finish: Try automotive headlight lens compound to clear the finish. Just an idea...
The repair itself is almost invisible but the color change around, due to sanding, don't want to cease to show of...Must be very difficult to decide it's good enough...
I inherited a Yamaha from the 60s with a badly damaged spruce top. I know it's not with much, so repairing it is purely a learning experience. Someone scratched their name into it and burned it with a lighter. All damage goes through the finish into the bare wood. Any suggestions on how to approach it? Any feedback welcome!
I’m unable to provide feedback without seeing it in person but if you want to email some photos and your contact info I’ll take a look and see.
Thanks In Advance!
Respray!
Although it's sort of counterintuitive, as a hazy finish is often what you want to avoid, it generally occurs in the presence of high humidity. And airborne applications tend to capture and trap that humidity causing a cloudy finish. So if you had a humidifier running nearby and sprayed the finish, it would probably be more likely to haze and match better. (meh, right)
I have to do a similar finish repair on my guitar. It's an area about 1" by 1". I cleaned the spot up down to bare wood and feathered the edges of the existing finish. It's an older acoustic with a spruce top that has naturally aged "yellow" nitro lacquer finish. I stained the sanded part to match the top and it came out as about as close as its going to get. I need to bring the sanded area back up to meet the existing finish. I'm going to use the Glu Boost to build it up. I noticed you kind of feathered it on in coats with a paper towel.....do you find this works better than a brush ?? Also after the Glu Boost and final sanding do you think I should spray a couple coats of lacquer for the final coat to hopefully "melt" the edge of where the sanding stopped ?? Or should I just buff out the Glu Boost. I've done this with regular stew mac cryo on some drop fills and noticed there is usually a line "outline" that shows. I'm wondering if a new lacquer coat would blend it better. Thoughts ? Thanks !!
It’s work a try!
Definitely give it a go if the existing finish is nitro
@harpethguitar Put a hot mini pizza on cardboad on that Spot you'll get that milky color . Use a hair dryer heat to lighten up to right milky gloss.
i have a Takamine that i bought used that the headstock has that milky white thing going on
Wiping the Fill n Finish thin with a paper towel is a game changer. Just sayin
Yeeesssss!
Shellac .. mixed. ..with go milky..
Polyurethane