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I need a silvertone “In my life” Great song thanks for the video Scott ❤ from England

Gorgeous work!!!!!

really rings

In 1964, $310 was not what $310 is today. It was a lot of money back then. Adjusting for inflation it is over $3000 in today’s money. So it definitely was not a great little deal in 1964 🤦‍♂

Man those frets were oxidized. What about the glue though? Was it fish glue? Looks gooey.

Just watched the Elderly Guitars Martin factory tour video this morning. Where your knife is hanging up in the center is where they were dumping some sort of wood glue into the center of the fret. It surprised me they were using wood glue and also how they were applying it. They were running a pretty big bead all the way down the center of the fret board and then smearing it into the fret slots. To me that seemed like a waste of material, but even more important, wrong kind of glue, wrong way to dispense it and a huge mess.

Cool to see one of these on here! A friend who has also restored a bunch of these believes the wood used for the fingerboard was actually dyed pearwood. The top arch doesn’t look too bad on this one, but starting to see the telltale signs of the client needing to adjust the pickups and polepieces up to compensate. I’d like to see the process of restoring the arch to one that has flattened out. No top bracing on these, correct? Also, really nice work as always!

Sounds good 👍

P90 guitars are just the best sounding! Especially a jazzmaster..my favourite of all time

Killer Gibson pickups in that beast. Feedback monster !

Ever consider adding black dye to titebond when using it on black finished guitars?

I've packed out truss rods with spacers before to get better tension on them. You easily run out of thread at times

i have many guitars, i love them all, but old harmonys and silvertones make my heart beat with joy.

I have a Silvertone 1429 Iced Teaburst and I have looked everywhere for an easy fix for the grounding issue! Thank you so much, saved me from having to drag out the guts.

I have a '63 Harmony H17 and a '67 Rocket H59. My understanding was Harmony didn't use rosewood or ebony for fretboards. They dyed maple black.

You had me at "Silvertone" :)

Great video! That old Espanada may have been built with a low budget in mind but it looks in excellent condition for its age, and a very playable instrument after your work on it. Are those pickups DeArmond speed bumps?

That is a really neat old guitar. Nice repair. Sounded pretty good to me over the old TH-cam at the end. I have read that Harmony's ebonizing process often causes those fret boards to rot or disintegrate over time.

Another interesting video!

Yeah 1st comment .. I'm glad things are back to normal for me so i can keep up... Morning scotty

Nothing sounds like a 12.

Why does it need the under saddle gizmo when it has an inbody pickup? I'm confused, my guitar has the under saddle pickup (no preamp) that is much thicker.

Fingerboard with a side of fries! Excellent work as always👍

Awesome work,I have an FG 230 12 ,1969 Nippon Gakkl in need of the same as well as a few other guitars . I just learned a ton of valuable info.Now I need to build a steaming rig or invest in the hot stick system, I've shaved many saddles and slotted many pin holes.looking forward to doing it the correct way, thanks for the schooling

If you got a perm you could be the Bob Ross of guitar repair

Me reset a neck? NAHHHH I'll let the pros do it.

Great job, Scotty! That is one weird neck design - have never seen or heard of that white glue and the whole center neck slit has me baffled. They obviously did it on purpose, but can’t imagine why. One question: when you glued the blocks over the ends of the double truss rod, did you coat the rods themselves with grease or wax first? I would be concerned about accidentally epoxying the rods in place, rendering them useless. On a side note, though I’ve never removed and replaced a fingerboard, myself, but I’ve seen it done different ways. One approach I thought was pretty cool was where the luthier used brad nails for the alignment pins. With the fingerboard removed, he tapped a couple nails in the face of the neck. Then he cut them off at a slight angle, creating a sharp point. They stuck out less than the thickness of the finger board, so when he pressed the board into place, during his dry-run, they created little holes in the back (without protruding all the way thru the fingerboard). Seems like a pretty cool idea, but you obviously have a great way of doing it, too. Anyhow, thanks for the video! Seems like I always learn something new whenever I watch you work your magic!

In the Beginning was epic. Well done and amazing work as always.

Just curious, why not fill the truss rods slots right up to the nut? Guessing there was something in the way. Up until this week a Guild guitar was the hardest to get a neck out of. Now that prize goes to an early 70s Yami built for the euro market. Scotty you always do great work!

Nice repair Scotty ,I m really impressed with the ELP song ,what a great song and group ,Parents listen to them ? I was like 8 or 9 when this album came out so its Golden to me,once Twice 3 times a ELP song how about it ? lol

well done

Awesome 12-string 👍

Great sounding guitar. If it was mine I would probably ask you to just do your best and patch up that hole and it would probably be good enough.

Brought to you by blue goost. Give your blue a goost with blue goost. 😂

The sound sample, at the end, was awesome... Great work.

I thought this would be a candidate for a carbon fiber rod, being a 12 string. FWIW.

Just opened a repair shop. I stumbled on to your show about a month before opening…….wonderful. And you just happened to have shows on some things I’m working on. Your providing great intel for those of us starting out. 🙏🙏🙏

Next time you sing that Gluboost song, do it Buckwheat style.

Nice repair as always. I wonder why you didn't pull two frets for the alignment pin holes? Doing so would hide the holes with no filling and would be 100% invisible once the two frets were reinstalled.

Beautiful work. That is the sound I equate with a 12-string.

What is so cool about this channel is seeing a repairer/restorer not straying from the basics, and including modern methods in concert with those basics, you know, like hide glue and other things. I remember i answered a newspaper ad for a Guild F-512, and went to the bar and grill where the guy’s gig was. This guitar was so powerful that he had to use silk & steel strings to keep from overdriiving the mic; AND, it had such a real refined tone with all the volume. I was only 16 at the time, and needed some help from my folks if I was going to get it. I was already paying $100 a month rent in 1973, but the answer was what part of no don’t you understand? All paths from the music world led to drugs and debauchery according to the folks. I can remember the sound and feel of that Westerly made Guild like it was 15 minutes ago. I don’t believe that every F-512 was as nice as this one was. I heard that the Westerly facility had no climate control, with one end of the building open to atmosphere, and seeing how they glued the rims and neck heel together not just the dovetail. When you find an exceptional guitar, just BuY IT!

Titebond, hide glue, fish glue, epoxy. Oh the humanity!😂😂 Another great demo!

String on a stick, I love it

Not enough clamping pressure with those spring clamps to elimate cupping due to water in HG + non 1/4 sawn ebony board. To resist cupping of FB simply use taped long thin steel bars with thick, stiff, flat hardwood caul over them. The steel bars near fret ends keep edges truly flat and thick caul spreads pressure sideways and lengthwise the board and neck stay level to the long level caul and heavier stronger clamps make the board flat to neck and not the neck to a warped or twisted board or cupped due to moisture. Alternately clamping jig/ caul combo with inverted U cross section with center adjustable metal strip to bear down on FB can be used in which wood sides bear on FB edges.

The FB locating pins can just be brads thru 2 fret slots. They come out with small end nippers.No filling needed. If Brad not slightly smaller than drilled hole and Brad stuck due to glue just heat with solder tip.

Nice woodworking. Nice problem solving. Cheers mate

Actually on further contemplation the new guilds were made with a microwave glue for the FB and hide glue for the DT. Just the repaired FB glued with white glue.

I worked at Guild. It's polyvinyl acetate ( white glue) We never routed down the center of neck or gaps in DT like that one during my time there. We also never had a neck removal jig, just f clamp.

I like the ELP at the end. Great stuff!

Another awesome video. I especially appreciate your attention to detail about the dowels. I wouldn't have thought that through my first time. Thanks for doing the research and spreading the knowledge.