Turn the exhaust upwards outside to create chimney effect and draw waste air up rather than force blow waste air out and cause motor overload.(guessing effor...)
That would waste a lot of heat! The exhaust pipe actually gets pretty hot and all that "extra heat" would be wasted. And I'm not that comfortable to put the hot air into a pipe. Also outside is outside and the weather conditions generally suck. The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
@@ArcticSeaCamel no. Put the HEATER outside and pipe in the heat only. Let the exhaust do what it wants. Make a cheap metal roof to keep out rain and snow from getting in exhaust. Have the heat only blow in that large pipe you have going through the side.
Get a carbon monoxide detector and rock & roll. We use a torpedo heater in our shop all the time and the CO never goes up. Your shop is much larger. The other suggestion of blowing through ah opening is also a good idea if the weather isn’t horrible. You’re doing a great job. Living a dream. Keep those spirits up!
@@dnomyarnostaw while it’s true for advanced composite layups that are performing at the edge of capacity, for his application simply cleaning between/before lamination will be more than adequate for proper bond and minimizes delam potential.
Brilliant Panu - you're really starting to motor now! Its so satisfying to see an ACTUAL boat taking form now I bet. Good luck and I hope all your sailing is plain :)
Knock up a small cover/shed outside for the heater. Keep the tall flue fitted (as this keeps the exhaust away from the air inlet) and duct the hot air into the shed. You will then be able to run the heater as long as you want. This has the advantage of supplying a constant supply of clean fresh air. 👍
I actually considered that. It would have been very difficult to put the whole plywood on proper angle into the machine. With this method I didn't need to do that 🙂. They came just out from the CNC. But this also requires to use epoxy with thickening because it needs to fill the gap between. "Normal glue" would require the pieces to actually connect together.
Your videos are amazingly interesting using a CNC to build a boat. Its called a collet and yes they do cause problems. I think cut the joints and use a saw to cut the lengths. Your doing a great job keep up the great work. I wish I lived nearer I would help.
Maybe I will come to Finland this year and I would like to see a wonderful progress of your yacht. For me I really prefer bilge keel for quite of sometimes until now. Keep it up dude.Thumb up for you
Panu, this is exciting progress. On the diesel heater that right angle is creating the major component of excess back pressure. A straight run will not significantly restrict flow so it’s either up through the roof or put the machine outside and duct in the hot air. Bugger about the tooling/collet issue.
Nice to see your progress! So impressed by your work. Amazing that it is first now that you had to experience tool that crawls out into the base plate. It happened to me within hours in my small 70x70cm CNC machine (Root3), and still happens occasionally (usually my fault, forgetting to tighten it properly). This is by far the best boat building channel on TH-cam! Keep up the good work and thanks for uploading the videos.
Thanks, I'll try to continue making these. My guess with this problem is that the long router bit resonates a little bit and just enough to loosen the nut. That is when making deep cuts. Maybe it's also the fact that the blade is a little dull already (due the misuse I've done with it, check out the videos where I make the floor pieces to the frames...)
The residue from Diesel exhaust will affect the adhesion of your epoxy, as the oily particles coat the wood. Diesel particulates are especially critical on epoxy to epoxy layup.
@ArcticSeaCamel Well done 👏 It would be dreadful to mess up adhesion Even now, any exposed wood or epoxy surfaces before the new chimney will need good cleaning in case the heater spread oily residue. All the best for the next stage 👍
Love the channel, you make such good videos and its always great to see the good, the bad and the ugly...You are taking us on a great journey before you even finish the boat. Do the screws in the bulwark boards come out or do they stay in once the epoxy sets?...
Start a grow house with that excess carbon from the fumes😊. On the heater, just make a long exhaust pipe (inside tent) enough to cool it and put a fan at the end and vent outside!
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂 The big duct is for insulating the hot pipe from the structures. There's unflammable insulation between there.
Panu, that 90 elbow is equal to 70 feet of pipe in resistance. put a transition to the next size larger pipe before the elbow and go with that. That should solve your back pressure problem.
Panu. Try turning the heater sideways and next to the wall. That would shorten the horizontal exhaust pipe. You can make an insulated plywood 45 degree deflector to direct the heat into the room.
You could try raising the heater to reduce pipe length, also angel the pipe that goes outside upwards to increase flow as a horizontal pipe will cause a carbon dioxide build up.
Hello You need to build a chimney of pipes outside so that it has an independent draft of air from the inside. The flue pipe cannot be sealed with the appliance's exhaust. The exhaust gases must be carried into the chimney together with part of the air sucked in through the chimney from the room.
Great to visit your work again, thoughts of the diesel heater exhaust, could an inline fan inside the tubing help with the back pressure, preventing the usage of those pipes. Any thought lower feed rate to prevent error of the CNC Router. Will see you again. Let sail of into to horizon.. :)
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂 The CNC feed and speed is always a little bit two bladed sword. To make the cut efficiently without burning the bit you need to have proper ratio between speed and feed. So that every rotation of the blade actually cuts something...
Your heat issue is more about the kind of heater. You should be using a radiant tube heater and maybe some spot radiant heaters over work stations. Your trying to heat the air. You have a lot of air. Most of which is above you. Radiant heaters do not heat the air directly. They heat objects in their path, those things in turn transfer heat to the air. A heater above your cnc area and your main work station would keep you and most of what your working on warm. You might even shave it would feel so warm on your upper extremes. A couple tube heaters would heat the length of the boat area. Might be out of the price range but the tadiant shop heaters are 3 to 400 in the us for 40,000 btu.
There's a few special features in my boat. Like free standing rotating masts. These are not available in (affordable enough) boats. Also I have no money. 🤣
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂 The big pipe is for insulating the hot pipe from the structures. The exhaust are hot!
@@ArcticSeaCamel I'm familiar with the shroud needing to be larger to accommodate the hot pipe at the exit. I was also thinking that a 45° elbow may effect the draft you need. I recall installing my dust collection and learning the absurd amount of inefficiency a 90° turn puts on airflow. However it's wonderful to know you've got it sorted out !
Please help me understand. I like what you are doing and it gives me Great Joy and I hope you finish ofcourse. Its just that This design seems so overly complex and the hardest possible way of making a boat? Has the designer never seen a boat or perhaps not designed anything before?(i guess not) Or what is the payback of doing it this way? Perhaps some benifit further down the line i dont get? Humble question..
Hi there! I’m not sure what you mean about “hardest way”? I think I’m going as simple as possible. It all comes to utilizing the CNC as much as possible and removing huge amounts of manual work. You might want to check the video I did coupe of months back that explains all the phases before we get into planking.
@@ArcticSeaCamel could be I feel the CNC work is real hard compared to just doing it manual . I have no experience thats why I ask. Perhaps other TH-camrs cut away on the manual part of things.. I dont know. I want to build my own wooden boat ofcourse and I try to get different impressions on how to do it. I even have a 'cnc' , the maslow in chains CNC but I get cold feet and so on... again thanks for the content! I am just trying to find my way and as I am an engineer I am naturally lacy so always trying to find the easiest path.
@@vallinderm Hi. There's definitely a learning curve with utilizing machine like this. The hardest thing to learn must be the tolerances. CNC is very accurate and in real life it can be too accurate. I'm still learning and I'm making mistakes of not thinking ahead enough with that. But as I'm familiar and pretty good with 3d cad (and professional architect), I have pretty good sense of space and how things align on the computer screen. Without any of that experience, this might be too much to chunk. But CAD work is fast to change and experiment compared to making things manually and then doing them again. And as a lazy "engineer" myself, I want to avoid manual work as much as possible of course.
@@ArcticSeaCamel there may still be some CO, not just CO2 and water . . . . *and* there may be micro soot particulates that will damage your lungs with time, and the damage may not reveal itself for years. Saying it works (because you have heat and the burner doesn't shut off) doesn't mean that it is entirely safe.
Put the heater outside and duct in the heat. You have a large tube. Blow heat in through it.
Or an insulated Elephant Trunk (spiral wire outside, type, duct), as the heater will get most materials really hot.
Best wishes from Northern Canada.
Turn the exhaust upwards outside to create chimney effect and draw waste air up rather than force blow waste air out and cause motor overload.(guessing effor...)
That would waste a lot of heat! The exhaust pipe actually gets pretty hot and all that "extra heat" would be wasted. And I'm not that comfortable to put the hot air into a pipe. Also outside is outside and the weather conditions generally suck.
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
I actually tried to put long exhaust pipe outside to do excactly that. It didn't work either...
@@ArcticSeaCamel no. Put the HEATER outside and pipe in the heat only. Let the exhaust do what it wants. Make a cheap metal roof to keep out rain and snow from getting in exhaust. Have the heat only blow in that large pipe you have going through the side.
Get a carbon monoxide detector and rock & roll. We use a torpedo heater in our shop all the time and the CO never goes up. Your shop is much larger. The other suggestion of blowing through ah opening is also a good idea if the weather isn’t horrible. You’re doing a great job. Living a dream. Keep those spirits up!
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
As long as you're not doing painting and epoxying so that particulates affect application from contaminated surfaces
@@dnomyarnostaw while it’s true for advanced composite layups that are performing at the edge of capacity, for his application simply cleaning between/before lamination will be more than adequate for proper bond and minimizes delam potential.
Congratulations Panu, progress now will be exciting - I hope your body can take it!
Brilliant Panu - you're really starting to motor now! Its so satisfying to see an ACTUAL boat taking form now I bet. Good luck and I hope all your sailing is plain :)
Wonderful stuff my friend just discovered your channel. I'm going to watch everything now.
It was a tough day in the shop but your hard driving music pushed you through it! Well done. Wonderful to see the boat now getting built!
Honest work=great outcome. Keep it up
Knock up a small cover/shed outside for the heater. Keep the tall flue fitted (as this keeps the exhaust away from the air inlet) and duct the hot air into the shed. You will then be able to run the heater as long as you want. This has the advantage of supplying a constant supply of clean fresh air. 👍
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
Doing scarfs.
It's easier to tilt the plywood than it is to play in X axis. Just make an angle table.
I actually considered that. It would have been very difficult to put the whole plywood on proper angle into the machine.
With this method I didn't need to do that 🙂. They came just out from the CNC. But this also requires to use epoxy with thickening because it needs to fill the gap between. "Normal glue" would require the pieces to actually connect together.
Panu: Great progress!!
Thanks! 🙏🏼
Thanks!
😍
Your videos are amazingly interesting using a CNC to build a boat. Its called a collet and yes they do cause problems. I think cut the joints and use a saw to cut the lengths. Your doing a great job keep up the great work. I wish I lived nearer I would help.
Love the humor. Understand frustration also :(. Great to being able to do 2 things as time is valuable.
Maybe I will come to Finland this year and I would like to see a wonderful progress of your yacht. For me I really prefer bilge keel for quite of sometimes until now. Keep it up dude.Thumb up for you
Panu, this is exciting progress. On the diesel heater that right angle is creating the major component of excess back pressure. A straight run will not significantly restrict flow so it’s either up through the roof or put the machine outside and duct in the hot air. Bugger about the tooling/collet issue.
Congrats to your success! Great start!!
Nice to see your progress! So impressed by your work. Amazing that it is first now that you had to experience tool that crawls out into the base plate. It happened to me within hours in my small 70x70cm CNC machine (Root3), and still happens occasionally (usually my fault, forgetting to tighten it properly).
This is by far the best boat building channel on TH-cam! Keep up the good work and thanks for uploading the videos.
Thanks, I'll try to continue making these.
My guess with this problem is that the long router bit resonates a little bit and just enough to loosen the nut. That is when making deep cuts. Maybe it's also the fact that the blade is a little dull already (due the misuse I've done with it, check out the videos where I make the floor pieces to the frames...)
Turning in to my favoritt boat build chanal.
The residue from Diesel exhaust will affect the adhesion of your epoxy, as the oily particles coat the wood.
Diesel particulates are especially critical on epoxy to epoxy layup.
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
Now there's no exhaust coming in anymore.
@ArcticSeaCamel Well done 👏
It would be dreadful to mess up adhesion
Even now, any exposed wood or epoxy surfaces before the new chimney will need good cleaning in case the heater spread oily residue.
All the best for the next stage 👍
Enjoying your progress I’m amazed thank you
Keep up the good work!
Great job.
Saw your short on yuck-tube 😂😂😂 "SPRING" 😂😂😂 👍🏽
very smart design-
Love the channel, you make such good videos and its always great to see the good, the bad and the ugly...You are taking us on a great journey before you even finish the boat. Do the screws in the bulwark boards come out or do they stay in once the epoxy sets?...
Hi thanks! They will all be removed. No iron based materials will be part of the boat.
Start a grow house with that excess carbon from the fumes😊. On the heater, just make a long exhaust pipe (inside tent) enough to cool it and put a fan at the end and vent outside!
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
Try two 45 degree bends since this provides a more continuous rise for the hot exhaust. Love the channel.
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
@@ArcticSeaCamel Good to hear you have solved it! I have my on project fitting out a 15 metre steel hull sailing boat in UK
I was getting ready to say the same thing Curt wrote. Use the big duct that you used for the exhaust. Good job by the way, Enjoy your channel,
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
The big duct is for insulating the hot pipe from the structures. There's unflammable insulation between there.
Panu, that 90 elbow is equal to 70 feet of pipe in resistance. put a transition to the next size larger pipe before the elbow and go with that. That should solve your back pressure problem.
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
Have you tried a High Helix cutter? A solid holder with a side setscrew will solve the cutter from pulling out.
The holder of my spindle is what it its...
Panu. Try turning the heater sideways and next to the wall. That would shorten the horizontal exhaust pipe. You can make an insulated plywood 45 degree deflector to direct the heat into the room.
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
Have you checked the temp at floor level? There's a couple oc tons of cold concrete and the heat from the heater rises up.
Not really. The floor is cool and will remain that for the whole summer. 😅
@@ArcticSeaCamel for sure. I was just thinking of the ambient temperature near the floor regarding glueing.
Spain👍
You could try raising the heater to reduce pipe length, also angel the pipe that goes outside upwards to increase flow as a horizontal pipe will cause a carbon dioxide build up.
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
panu you need an air intake / injector directly above the diesel heater. greeting
The door there is leaking enough air inside :)
Hello
You need to build a chimney of pipes outside so that it has an independent draft of air from the inside. The flue pipe cannot be sealed with the appliance's exhaust. The exhaust gases must be carried into the chimney together with part of the air sucked in through the chimney from the room.
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
Great to visit your work again, thoughts of the diesel heater exhaust, could an inline fan inside the tubing help with the back pressure, preventing the usage of those pipes. Any thought lower feed rate to prevent error of the CNC Router. Will see you again. Let sail of into to horizon.. :)
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
The CNC feed and speed is always a little bit two bladed sword. To make the cut efficiently without burning the bit you need to have proper ratio between speed and feed. So that every rotation of the blade actually cuts something...
Your heat issue is more about the kind of heater. You should be using a radiant tube heater and maybe some spot radiant heaters over work stations.
Your trying to heat the air. You have a lot of air. Most of which is above you.
Radiant heaters do not heat the air directly. They heat objects in their path, those things in turn transfer heat to the air.
A heater above your cnc area and your main work station would keep you and most of what your working on warm. You might even shave it would feel so warm on your upper extremes.
A couple tube heaters would heat the length of the boat area.
Might be out of the price range but the tadiant shop heaters are 3 to 400 in the us for 40,000 btu.
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
Hi Great film, assume you have covered elsewhere and need to catch up but whats the difference in self build v buy?
There's a few special features in my boat. Like free standing rotating masts. These are not available in (affordable enough) boats. Also I have no money. 🤣
I haven't watched the entire video but I i think that if you use LARGE pipe at the horizontal section to avoid the back pressure you may have joy.
The heater has now installed with longer vertical pipe inside and it works 🙂
The big pipe is for insulating the hot pipe from the structures. The exhaust are hot!
@@ArcticSeaCamel
I'm familiar with the shroud needing to be larger to accommodate the hot pipe at the exit. I was also thinking that a 45° elbow may effect the draft you need. I recall installing my dust collection and learning the absurd amount of inefficiency a 90° turn puts on airflow. However it's wonderful to know you've got it sorted out !
the router collet is probably worn just enough.
Yeap. And it actually is "collet" not "collar" as I thought... 😅
Please help me understand. I like what you are doing and it gives me Great Joy and I hope you finish ofcourse. Its just that This design seems so overly complex and the hardest possible way of making a boat? Has the designer never seen a boat or perhaps not designed anything before?(i guess not) Or what is the payback of doing it this way? Perhaps some benifit further down the line i dont get? Humble question..
Hi there! I’m not sure what you mean about “hardest way”? I think I’m going as simple as possible.
It all comes to utilizing the CNC as much as possible and removing huge amounts of manual work.
You might want to check the video I did coupe of months back that explains all the phases before we get into planking.
@@ArcticSeaCamel could be I feel the CNC work is real hard compared to just doing it manual . I have no experience thats why I ask. Perhaps other TH-camrs cut away on the manual part of things.. I dont know. I want to build my own wooden boat ofcourse and I try to get different impressions on how to do it. I even have a 'cnc' , the maslow in chains CNC but I get cold feet and so on... again thanks for the content! I am just trying to find my way and as I am an engineer I am naturally lacy so always trying to find the easiest path.
@@vallinderm Hi. There's definitely a learning curve with utilizing machine like this. The hardest thing to learn must be the tolerances. CNC is very accurate and in real life it can be too accurate. I'm still learning and I'm making mistakes of not thinking ahead enough with that.
But as I'm familiar and pretty good with 3d cad (and professional architect), I have pretty good sense of space and how things align on the computer screen. Without any of that experience, this might be too much to chunk.
But CAD work is fast to change and experiment compared to making things manually and then doing them again. And as a lazy "engineer" myself, I want to avoid manual work as much as possible of course.
What an amazing project to follow. What software are you using to control the machine?
Thanks! It's UCCNC that works with the CNC controller I chose:
www.cncdrive.com/UCCNC.html
👍
With all the bad luck you were having, I was expecting you to have collapsed from carbon monoxide poisoning by the end of the video. Glad you didn't 😊
👍💪🏼🥰
I always enjoy watching your videos, but the music is awful ;-)
you could put a electro fan in the exhaust pipe, suck the exhaust gas out
If it’s not metal, it ain’t music.
@@ArcticSeaCamel you mean, you only recommend metal people here *lol
@@predictabledd 🤪🤘
74 episodios... jaja
😅 It’s been a long way and a lot of money to establish project like this! I’m lucky to be able to do something like this! 😊
Congraciarse... espero verte navegando !!! Abrazo desde Argentina
working inside a closed space with a fucking diesel engine running its exhaust fumes inside it? thats just stupid
It produces only CO2 and water. Although after that night I could definitely feel the moisture inside.
@@ArcticSeaCamel there may still be some CO, not just CO2 and water . . . . *and* there may be micro soot particulates that will damage your lungs with time, and the damage may not reveal itself for years. Saying it works (because you have heat and the burner doesn't shut off) doesn't mean that it is entirely safe.
@@kenrolt8072 Hi. As you may see in my more recent video, the exhaust has now been taken out. So no worries there ☺
@@ArcticSeaCamel TY