Case Bound Book 3 Endpapers, Gluing the Spine and Trimming the Edges // Adventures in Bookbinding
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ส.ค. 2024
- Part 3 of a series on binding a rounded and backed case bound book. In this video endpapers will be added to the text block, the spine will be glued, and the text block trimmed.
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The tools and materials I use can be purchased from specialist suppliers and manufacturers in my suppliers list. If you are in Australia I have a limited range of items I supply by mail or by pickup from the bindery in Brisbane.
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The #DASBookbinding Channel is the perfect starting point for learning #bookbinding. It covers foundation skills, simple projects, technical methods, materials and more advanced bookbinding projects. The videos are presented in a tutorial or lesson fashion, which I hope are easy to follow. The knowledge presented is based on traditional techniques which can be used to create traditional books or as a foundation to quality journalling or creative artists' books. The best way to find what you are looking for is the DAS Bookbinding TH-cam Channel guide.
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English Closed Caption titles by Carrie Snyder. Thank you!!
The music used in the video is Bach, performed by Brendan Kinsella and used under the Open Audio License.
freemusicarchive.org/music/Bre... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Great video, and I love the music! Can't go wrong with piano :-)
I wish I could use this music more. Even though it is has been made available to use, it attracts copyright matches because it has been recorded so many times.
I've watched most of your videos many times and I am always impressed with what excellent work that you do. I say, if you want to get good at something, learn from the best.
I just finished French sewing my first home printed text block and it came out well. I'm back refreshing myself as to the next steps. For some reason rounding the back worries me. I guess there is nothing for it except to do it. Experience removes fear. 🙂
For now, its endpapers and trimming.
I love the music, didn't hear this particular piece before but I instantly knew it would be from Bach
Great videos! The close-ups are very helpful
Thank you so mu h for including a link to the music! Knew it was Bach, but didn't recall what it was....
I'm just finishing my text with a few original sketches... then to assembly. I'll try my rounding over idea. If it works, you'll get word from me, including some pics. If is doesn't work, I suspect I'll fade away into the dust on the old Renaissance bookshelf. Who knows, maybe I'll end up on the genius list with people like Edison, Bell, Gutenberg and .... Hey, it's my dream, right?
In the part about tipping on the endsheets, the waste paper underneath says "Gentleness Wins". Seems appropriate. :-)
Darryn, something had occurred to me when I started watching bookbinding videos. I have to visualise this all in the opposite way round. I'm left handed and I do not have the dexterity to do this right handed. That includes tying the knots as well. The book will have to be sewn all opposite to how it is done right handed. The head will have to be to the left, starting from the back of the book and working to the front. Or, starting from the tail and working toward the head, if the book is started from the front to back.
I get a headache just trying to think about it. I had the same problem when I was coaching junior cricket. At least wicket keeping is fairly symmetric. I think I would leave the book and start from the tail and keep the order of the sections. I wonder what the left handed professional sewers did? DAS
@@DASBookbinding Hmm, good point, Darryn. I'll have to start looking for a left handed binder. I think there is an American lady who is left handed, she does restorations. I'll have to watch her videos more closely. For me working right handed is out of the question. For example, a circular saw is one of my least favorite tools. I always have trouble using it because it totally unnatural the way it is held.
If you haven’t found his channel, Four keys book arts, is a left handed American bookbinder. I like watching his videos though I do prefer Das overall.
I’m left handed as well and am a bit ambidextrous. I usually start out trying to mimic right handers at first then end up translating that into left handed motions but on occasion switch back and forth till I find a system that works for me. I’m an electrician by trade and splice my wires right handed, because wire nuts screw on right handed so it was best to learn that way and now I can’t splice left handed to save my life.
I’ve just started to try my hand at bookbinding and find myself setting up like a right hander for sewing like Das has. I’ve learned most of my clumsiness is due do being a novice. It doesn’t matter, right or left handed, because you may start out going in one direction but will end up going the back the other. I’ve noticed Das(don’t know his name) has some left handed habits like, though being right handed, flipping a book back to forward rather then front to back.
@@billybilodeau1991 "I’m an electrician by trade and splice my wires right handed, because wire nuts screw on right handed" - First of all, thanks for the reference to Four Keys.
Regarding wire, I used to work for a telecommunications company in Australia, in the exchanges. I used to turn wire together, but left-handed. Drove right-handed techs up the wall. 😊 All of my home electrical wiring is done the same way.
And yes, books are all "the wrong way 'round". So are folder rings, not enough LH lecture theatre writing arms.
I can mirror write, that is, write "backwards". I can't use fountain pens, I gave up on them decades ago. I found I write best, using mechanical pencils. Pens, move "too fast" and my letter formation isn't as good. Plus I use a very severe back-slant to my writing. I effectively write down the page, underneath the writing. Not that it matters much these days, because I touch-type.
Finding left hand twisted wires on a job drives me nuts too! The wire nuts are ways an *itch to remove because they're jammed on! Best to use Wagos now lol.
I can also mirror write or as I call it widdershins. Comes in handy when I need to lable a clear weatherproof plastic outlet cover. I write on the inside in widdershins but on the outside it reads normal but the ink is protected on the inside.
I can use a fountain pen but not well, unless I write widdershins. Then I feel like a god lol. I don't write like a calligrapher but I write a hell of a lot better. Sometimes I think DeVinci wrote in widdershins just because it was easier! I typically don't write in cursive just in a modified, slightly cursive, print. And even though I have a few pens I like, I too like pencils more. Mechanical pencils for non-work related jobs and wooden for on the job tasks. Mechanicals wouldn't last too long on a job site.
If you're not going to round the back (I'm doing a flat casebound), is it still necessary/recommended to tip on the first and last signatures? Thank you.
Has anyone ever used the concavity of a half-pipe to acquire the desired curvature of the spine? By that I mean, repeatedly dropping the book on its spine within the half-pipe. Different diameter, and length, pipes could be cut open to accommodate the different thicknesses, and height , of projects. It's just a thought. Would it be worth a try? Comments?
I'm all for trying ideas. One of the biggest mistakes people make (and I do this often) is to sew the book too tightly, especially at the kettle stitches. This makes it difficult to round. A surprising amount of force is often required to round a book. And you usually over round and then let it come back a bit. The round is then set in place with the lining of the spine. I imagine it may be hard to bring the book down with force and hit the half-pipe (is that something kids use for skateboards?) squarely. Also, I like to use the simplest method. I think the hammer is simpler then requiring a set of different sized forms. I think you should try it and let us know how it goes. Thanks for your interesting idea! DAS
Hi there, wonderful demo. I have bound a few softcover artist books using only kettle stitch points up the spine... It has worked well enough, but I find when it comes time to glue and reinforce the spine I can never achieve a perfectly straight edge along the spine as the end knots on my kettle stitches protrude outwards. I can resolve this to some extent when using a woven binding cloth and glue, pushing them down with my bone file... is my issue that I am tying too large knots at the beginning (i go twice over per knot), or am I sewing the stitches too tightly that there isn't space between the signatures for the knot to go? Any insight or advice you have would be greatly appreciated!! Sorry for the long comment, very grateful for all of your amazing content.
It has been common in trade binding to saw in the kettle stitches so there is a groove for the knot to sit in and not produce a bump on the spine. I think I saw in the kettle stitches in the library binding. Except for the last knot, you only have to do the kettle stitch once. Doing it twice for each section would produce a thick knot. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you so much! Much appreciated
Do you have a good recommendation for either where to buy the guillotine or a good alternative for one?
Keep an eye on the used market for a German made Ideal brand guillotine. They come up fairly often. Be picky and look for one in good condition. Cut something (a paperback book) to make sure there are no big nicks in the blade. You can't expect a used one to have a sharp blade, but if the blade is damaged, pass it up. A new blade is very expensive. Good luck! DAS
Hello ! Thank you for all these brilliant tutorials and for sharing your knowledge ;-) I am going crazy with my 4th attempt to have a nice gap between my signatures once glued together. A space, or even worse, a bit of glue is always showing in between 2 signatures and my book is not perfect in my opinion to be able to sell. I tried to put the text block spine more in the inside of the press so that the signatures would be really pressed together but once it's dried the transition between 2 signatures still isn't nice. I printed my picture onto 220gsm paper and my signatures have 2 pages. I would appreciate any advice from your part as I am about to give up... Thank you in advance.
Sorry you are having a frustrating time. 220gsm is fairly heavy and I imagine the spine looks like saw teeth with peaks and valleys between sections. Something I often do with books like this is to put it deep in the press so only about 1 or 2cm extends out and the block is well compressed. Then with a bone folder I rub the spine of the book to flatten out the peaks a bit. Not too much as you don't want to crush the back of the sections, but enough to flatten things out a bit and close up the valleys between the sections. Hope this helps. Good luck! Darryn
@@DASBookbinding thank you so much, that’s a brilliant idea ! I will try that. Have a great day 🤗
@@DASBookbinding Hello ! Having made another try, I must say that it's much better with a rub on the spine to flatten out the peaks ! Thank you ;-) Nathalie
Wonderful video. Thank you. What is the guillotine you use in your video please as looking to upgrade mine and like the one you have.
It's an older model german made Ideal. I highly recommend these. Look for one in good condition on the used market. Mainly looking for a blade without nicks in it. A spare blade is a bonus.
I'm not sure I understand at the end the compensator boards. How are they positioned? Do they get cut?
No it doesn't get cut. It is positioned just behind the guillotine blade. It pads out the text so it is the same thickness at the fore-edge as the spine where it is thicker because of the swell. Yours, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you! My heavy duty guillotine arrived today. I've used a plough thus far (and will not abandon it), but too often I am just not accurate enough with it, which is frustrating.
💙📚💙📚💙
Hi, thank you for this great tutorial! Just wondering how long the spine should be left to dry?
Depends which step. But the first time it gets adhesive - before rounding - just long enough that it stops being tacky. No idea how long this is. Depends on the adhesive - 5 to 15 minutes?
@@DASBookbinding sorry haha yes that's the part I meant! Thank you! I'm working on my first case binding from start to finish by following your tutorial so thank you once again
What is the reason for trimming the fore-edge first?
In this case I guess it doesn't matter. So it's habit. Most of the books I make I cut the fore-edge, then round the book to distribute the swell and then cut tail and head. It's a good habit to get into. DAS
I love the brush you use for the PVA application. Is it something that you made? I have been using an old acrylic brush but it does not effectively get the glue into all the areas. I also have worked in health, safety and in specifically chemical safety and saw no difference in using my finger with this or Elmer's glue. I take chemicals seriously too and read the MSDS. Working in a hands on trade means just that, getting hands dirty. I highly respect your method of teaching and you do give due caution with your use of equipment but what a waste of precious time if you had to disclaim every single thing you did and maybe it would sound belittling to hear "please don't run your hand across the blade" or "please don't swallow the PVA" or "that leather contains chemicals so wash your hands before eating after handling". Each person is responsible to investigate and if they have unusual sensitivities, take precautions. I would hope that they do. I really feel educated when you teach and I wanted to ask about your brush again. And my other question was your suggestion for edge allowance on covering the binder's board with vinyl. Do you usually have about a 3/4" allowance on the edges? Thank you again for your programs. Finally I am seeing some progress in my binding. And a friend is lending me her guillotine. I will be careful. Yay👍🏼
Hi Jennie, Thanks for your thoughtful comments. The round glue brush is German made brush that I'm wondering if it is no longer made. I've been looking for more recently and can't find them. I bought that one from Hewits in the UK, but they only seem to have them in the huge size and the smaller ones are now different. The safety issues is just that, an issue for me. Someone in the past felt strongly I should provide a warning regards getting PVA on fingers. I do keep MSDSs for everything in my bindery, because it is a business. I doubt every hobby binders checks every MSDS. Regards the PVA I use I'd have to go to the bindery to get the exact wording, but it's something like prolonged exposure may cause a skin rash (used fancier language than that). The exposure level that most hobby binders would get is minimal compared to in a professional bindery. So I think the risk is minimal and have decided to not add a caution about it. But it is something I consider all the time. For this reason I avoid instruction on how to operate a guillotine:) For turn-ins I use between 15 and 20mm - 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Occasionally on very large books this will be larger but seldom do I go below 15mm. All the very best with your binding, Darryn
Hi Jennie; I was just wondering how that worked out with your friend's guillotine. Were you able to keep all of your fingers and all parts of your fingers without a cautionary statement from your friend or did she remember to tell you to keep your fingers out from under the blade while operating?
@@DASBookbinding Since you're a scientist, I'm not at all surprised you have all of the MSDS. I used to own a small company that did government contract electronics work on military bases; I had MSDS for everything except the air we breathed - and read them all.
I do appreciate that you mention the risks where they exist since many people won't have experience at all with the chemicals, etc. But, mostly, I just appreciate all the time and effort it must take you to create this great base of knowledge and that you share it so freely.
Great video thanks, just one thing to point out, as a Health & Safety advisor I ask you NOT to rub the PVA with your finger, glue is not designed to to be in contact with skin and regular contact will almost certainly irritate or worse will cause dermatitis, this can be difficult to treat and is totally unnecessary, I offer these comments with respect.
Hi Peter. Thanks for your observation. So you know I take your point seriously, most of my life I have managed work environments which without serious HSE systems would be dangerous. To your point about contact with PVA being unnecessary, with the hand binding styles I demonstrate it is almost unavoidable. The avoidance route would be to use an alternative adhesive such a protein based one, which is likely to have the same potential effect. The use of PPE (gloves) is possible but with a significant drop in productivity. The MSDS for the adhesive I use states the health effects is "considered to be practically non-harmful by all exposure routes". It does go on to say "regular and prolonged exposure MAY result in irritation and dermatitic effects". I will seek further guidance on this though. Thanks for your observation. Take care, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Hi, thanks for your reply, I really think that your videos along with many others on TH-cam do a great service and the time you put into these is really appreciated, however, I would not want someone further on down the line spoiling your efforts by coming back with an accusation that they now have a skin condition and "why didn't you alert us", so my suggestion would be to add a disclaimer such as " please be aware that these products may contain chemicals and as such need to used in accordance with the manufactures instructions and if they come in contact with the skin please be sure to wash off immediately with soap and water to reduce the risk of any ill effects" I teach H & S to construction workers here in the UK and I am talking from a professional to another professional and have your interests at heart. Please continue with the great videos as I am also an amateur Leatherworker and am interested in using leather to re-cover books, I have a website: www.kewstokeleather.co.uk if you would care to have a look, any advice would be appreciated, yours professionally, Peter
Can you sew the endpapers on?
Absolutely. I have a video introducing endpapers and then a few videos on making different types of endpapers, most of which are sewn on. Plus, many of the projects use sewn on endpapers. Just use one of these on this book. One I don't think i cover anywhere is to simply sew a 2 sheet section at the front and end of the book. This gives a paste down and 3 blank free endpapers. I was taught for letterpress binding you shouldn't have the sewing between the pastedown and first free endpaper - thus the 2 sheets. This isn't a hard rule, and didn't seem to apply to 19th century library binding. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding thank you!
Thank you for this informative video... I'm just starting to learn this art. Unfortunately I found the music to be kind of frenetic and distracting... it's kind of like when you are driving, trying to concentrate on finding an address and the radio is too loud. I don't know if that analogy translates, but thank you so much for the clear instructional video.
Is it politically correct to use a guillotine on a book with french stitching? Perhaps that’s why you nock up to the head, so you don’t have to take too much off the top lol
I don’t have a guillotine but I saw a video where the guy used a wide wood chisel while the text block was in a vice, in much the same way a plow would cut.
It's bad form to trim the edges of old books. So if you're rebinding something you should try and avoid it. Most new books have the edges trimmed unless it is handmade paper with a deckle edge (usually left uncut, except maybe the head) or the book is being left "uncut" (rare these days). The type of sewing - such as the use of a link stitch - doesn't really come into I don't think. Yes, knock up to the head to minimise the trim at the head. Hope this helps. Darryn
That sounds like Glen's video. I have a similar one. I don't remember if I ripped him off or the other way. DAS
I posted that video to your, budget guillotine, video in the comments just yesterday. His handle is Four Keys book arts. He’s the lefty American book binder...actually he might be Canadian, either way his content is good.
I am just starting to book bind. I’ve gotten as far as making three identical text blocks, though one is a french stitch. I have planned to do a made end paper for them. It looks like a challenge for my first books but I really like the rounded style so thats what I’m aiming for here too.
The bit I’m scratching my head over now is over decorative paper. Is there a difference between paper used for cases and paste downs? Marbled vs paste paper? I have three decorative papers I plan to use as either paste downs or case covers for those books. These are my first books so the only thing I know for sure is get something wrong or at least not quite right. But I still wanna go at it with as much understanding as possible.