How to Bind a Square Back Bradel Binding // Adventures in Bookbinding
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2024
- This video demonstrates a square back #Bradel binding based on instructions published by Peter Verheyen. This binding is particularly suited to small books which can't, or difficult, to round and back. It is also one of the easier case binding techniques.
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DAS Bookbinding TH-cam Channel guide
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Peter's instructions can be found here
www.philobiblo...
The PDF of Ernst Collin's Der Pressbengel, which has been translated by Peter, and he produced the PDF, can be found at
works.bepress....
The tools and materials I use can be purchased from specialist suppliers and manufacturers in my suppliers list. If you are in Australia I have a limited range of items I supply by mail or by pickup from the bindery in Brisbane.
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The #DASBookbinding Channel is the perfect starting point for learning #bookbinding. It covers foundation skills, simple projects, technical methods, materials and more advanced bookbinding projects. The videos are presented in a tutorial or lesson fashion, which I hope are easy to follow. The knowledge presented is based on traditional techniques which can be used to create traditional books or as a foundation to quality journalling or creative artists' books. The best way to find what you are looking for is the DAS Bookbinding TH-cam Channel guide.
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English Closed Caption titles by Carrie Snyder. Thank you!!
The music used in this video is performed by Jon Sayles. Jon has some great classical guitar music on his website, which he shares freely.
This channel deserves a lot more attention. These procedures are not easily understood from a book, although I have several on the subject. Your videos convey subtleties that books often gloss over. You're a superb instructor and I look forward to seeing more!
Thanks, you're very kind. Happy binding. DAS
Totally agree
You are so right
Love the music! I hope things are looking up for you - things can be replaced, it's people that are important. I want you to know that your work is important and appreciated. I finished my first crude books today, thanks in large part to your channel. With everything that's been going on in this tired and sad world, you have provided me with a little bit of peace, and from the bottom of my heart I thank you and wish you the best.
I so much agree to this! Every word. Your videos, DAS, has helped me a lot and accompanies me when ever I tries to make or repair books. Love this. Hope you all are well.
OMG your method for trimming the width of the boards to fit the textblock *after* they're glued to the spine paper is genius! So obvious, but I'd never have thought of it! Thank you, Sir!
I wish I could say I thought of it:) DAS
Just made a notebook for my girlfriend using some techniques you presented in your channel. I didn't had any knowledge on bookbinding, but you showed me the way! Congratulations on your content quality and clarity!
In answer to your question: Yes. I'm enjoying the music very much.
He aprendido tanto con usted! Gracias por cuidar cada detalle en sus videos: la meticulosa explicación, el tratar de hacerlo accesible a todos, el encuadre, la luz, la música, la voz en off, de verdad muchas muchas gracias!!! Tanto tiempo y esfuerzo se le recompensará 🙏🏼
As someone with an interest in reading many texts not widely available in the US in book form (USSR literature haha) I have a great interest in printing them and binding them on my own. It was hard to find information on how to prepare different types of text blocks for binding - thank you very much for this invaluable tutorial and for your ability to share this artistry with us ❤
I must have watched this a dozen times and as a result am now producing passable, neat bindings for my own use. Thank you once again.
I also love the music!!! I supposed to be watching sewing videos, but the music and watching you so meticulously build these books is soothing.
What a delight to find this video tutorial using my instructions and Bone Folder/Pressbengel textblock. Very nicely done, as are your other videos. Thank you.
Hi Peter! Thanks so much for stopping by. Your work has been a great inspiration!
Finally finished my first Bradel binding! I had to outsource trimming the text block to a local printing company but did everything else by hand, followed all the instructions here step-by-step, messed up, took things apart, started over again, and now I have a handsome book to give my dad for a belated birthday/Father's day present.
This video was incredibly helpful when I bound a notebook for myself last year, and now I'm watching it again so I can bind two more books this way. Thank you so, so much for the amazing resources you share on this channel!
Such humility from a great master respect I learned a lot trough your contents
Best bookbiding vids in the Internet.
Have just completed this project as a first exercise, instructions were superb. I made mistakes, hopefully learned from them and wiser next time. A rewarding exercise and I am energised to tackle more.
I'm glad you show how to make end bands (10:00). I went to buy supplies this weekend and they were $1/inch. I about fell over.
Try $4 per yard.
www.talasonline.com/Art-Silk-Headbands
DAS
Looking forward to binding a book soon. Haven't done it properly in 5 years or so and this was a great refresher.
Amazing .How talented Milton is .the work is so complex but he makes it look easy . He does a fantastic job. Good on ya Milton!
Thank you so much for this very informative book binding video. I have learned so much from you.
The music is my favorite part! So relaxing.
Thanks so much for this great video. Looking forward to watching the other ones about endpapers. I think it is super that you do videos that are accessible/don't use too much specialized equipment. I would be very interested to hear what equipment you think is worth investing in, and what isn't!
I'll have a video about basic tool in the New Year. I do use a lo of specialised tools though. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Can't wait! I really value your opinion on what would be worthwhile investing in.
Yes, the gentle classical justice's so refreshing. The style if music in a video makes such a difference and your taste is always impeccable! Granted I am a piano teacher😂
I really love this type of binding, it looks so perfect & neat
Thank you very much for all the great instructions !!! 🙂
I LOVE your choices of music. Please continue :)
A truly excellent tutorial. Well done & thank you!
Thanks. Yes, I like this approach. If I want a deep pronounced groove at the joint I still use the approach without the joining piece of paper, which I think of as the english style.
@@DASBookbinding I don't get why the Bradel method isn't more widely used.
BTW, if you have the time and the inclination, I'd love to see you do a video on rounded back Bradel style. Cheers!
I just bound my first book following this tutorial. I see a lot of places where I can improve, but it was so fun and it looks, sounds, and feels like a real book in my hands. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
You mentioned that some people find the music distracting. I'm a classical musician who plays piano, guitar, and viola, so I especially appreciate your selections ... except for one, which is the Bach piano variations that speed up with each section. I feel that the sections become increasingly frenetic and, indeed, distracting (though masterfully performed). Other than that piece, the background music is pleasing and appropriate to what you're doing, especially during times when you're not talking. One opinion ... keep adding the background music.
I have watched nearly all your videos and want to thank you for the great instruction as I have made a couple dozen books now in various styles. Your instructions are clear and rational. Thank you!
As I've got better at editing and not having music under my voice overs the complaints have mostly stopped. I should redo some of the early videos. I like the background sounds of folding paper etc, but unfortunately my cheap camera and microphone also picks up my breathing. When sped up it sounds terrible. The musics helps hide this. Unfortunately the music I have available keeps shrinking as big copyright companies continue to make spurious copyright claims against pieces (you really think you have the copyright to the melody of Bach?). I used to spend a bit of time matching the music to what I was doing. But I just spend too much time doing it. Sorry about the occasional jarring juxtaposition.
Thnx Darryn for a great video. Learnt heaps.
I've been using this binding technique for a few years now, but when I watched your video, I learned at least 5-6 new, nice, useful tricks. It was my pleasure. Thank you
Thanks! If I can keep that average up I'll be doing well. I should acknowledge that I learnt it from someone too, and in the case of Bradel binding it's Peter Verheyen. DAS
@@DASBookbinding I learned that binding from another bookbinding Peter , (Peter Verheyen knows him also well), if you want to look how he does this binding: th-cam.com/video/4ZTXeghn-F8/w-d-xo.html. Best wishes. Klaus
Excelente su trabajo Maestro, muchas gracias 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
*_I love the Music, it's Not a Distraction._* They can mute🔇the Sound & turn on Captions to read what you're saying. It's the LOUD Volume on most TH-cam Videos that is distracting or annoying.
I've been avidly going through the videos in your channel for a few months now, and would like firstly to say thank you for the excellent instruction and quality of explanations.
Secondly, I would like to ask if there is an upper limit to the thickness of the text block using this binding method? I have a preference for the square backed aesthetic over the rounded, and would like to attempt to bind a larger A5 book of about 5-6cm thick.
Did you ever get a response?
You should probably use more tapes, say 4 instead of 2 etc., so it is better supported.
Tysm for sharing!
This is exactly what I needed, thank you!!
13:48 Would there be a point to rounding the spine of the text block slightly (say, if we have a bit more swell) after trimming it, even if the case has a straight spine? Or would that introduce unwanted forces when leafing through the text? 🤔🙂
I'm trying out bookbinding and find your videos very informative. Nice camera work and great voice over.
Darryn Schneider I love medieval bindings. Cord supports under a leather spine is a timeless, sophisticated esthetic that I never grow tired of.
You mentioned leaving 7mm gap between the spine support and the boards for thick cloth, would you leave much more if you were using leather?
Depends on the thickness of leather. I probably wouldn't;t use leather on a square back book. But if I did I would pare it very thin. So maybe I'd go to 8 or 9mm. It's not an exact science.
This clears up a lot of questions I have. The spine stiffener is cut slightly larger than the overall height of the text block and boards? And you set the text block flush with the spine stiffener? I've been trying to slightly offset the text block from the spine stiffener to let the text block "sit" in the gap between the spine stiffener and the boards. It looks like I don't need to do this.
Looks like this binding will be my first project.
Good choice. Sewn board binding is also a good starting point. Good luck! DAS
When punchering on the table like that. Are you going in an angle? I.e. are you trying to punch perfectly in that fold? (as opposed to going more down towards the table following the guide).
Specifically, is there a reason you do it on the table vs one of those punch molds?
Or is it a matter of breath of experience meaning you don't need the guide and do it better free hand ?
I'm assuming it is a built skill but I thought i'd clarify as its come up with my own learning via higher ups. So was curious on others like yerself
Yes, I do punch at an angle. In other videos I show this in detail from different video angles. Maybe check out the most recent version of the rounded and backed cased book video. I use the hooked template too. I think this is easier than the punching cradles, which I almost never use (one exception for a very exotic book). I actually think they make it harder. They were never used traditionally.
Hi
Great video. just one question where do you get your Ramieband from. I have not been able to find a supplier in Tas or Oz for that matter.
Hi Mark. I'm fairly sure you won't find one. QBG has a good stock and I get it from them. But it's a members only store. I think I'm the only one who has bought it in forever. It's made by a German company, and you can get it from Germany with great difficulty and expense or from Talas in the US for great expense only. Or send me a message at darryn@dasbookbinding.com and I can do you a good deal on a couple of meters through the letter post. All the best, DAS
I've been trying to get that nice crease on the edge of the boards but the cloth won't stick. It peels away. I've made my own bookcloth with linen, an iron on fabric adhesive and tissue paper. I have proper book cloth on order but I feel like my PVA is just not adhering when I press it in. I pinch the fabric and quickly put it under my press and hope it turns out ok. Very frustrating.
How does yours just "stick"?
Oh nevermind, I know what I did wrong. I'm mixing techniques and I just glued the spine stiffener directly to the cloth first. I am having a heck of a time getting my heat transfer vinyl to be centered so I've been trying different methods. I've found that the cover gets heavily warped when I try to iron on the HTV after I make the case. Trial and error I suppose.
Hello! Great video. just want to clarify, at 20:25, the groove is on the book-board side, not the spine side, is that correct?
I think I understand your question. Yes, the covering material goes down the side edge of the board and then slopes up towards the spine piece.
@@DASBookbinding perfect! Thank you!
Amazing work and thank you for the share!!
How are the decorated attached to the text block? Btw I love your channel! Thanks for all the hard work
I think you mean the endpapers. I don't remember which method I used in this video, but I'm sure I explain it at some point. Happy binding! DAS
Awesome. I'm about to do some prints of childhood books this way. What are the 2 pieces of wood made of that you surround the text block with before slipping into the nipping press? They are really smoothe.
Marine ply. I buy the sheets with finished surfaces. But once I cut them to size I sand them again with 220 grit sandpaper. I don't coat them because I want them to absorb moisture out of the book.
@DASBookbinding thank you. sense. I'll need to find a substitute. Marine plywood costs an arm and a leg.
Would using a fine mist sprayer work to rewet the adhesive? I do this when working with pva sometimes.
A moist sponge or rag is better. Spraying introduces a lot of moisture and harder to control.
Thanks for the video Darryn. As always your videos are very educational and helps a lot with my bookbinding adventures :)
I have a question for you, the permalife paper that you used for the case is not available in Australia. What would you recommend as an alternative which is easy to buy in Australia?
Specialty papers aren't really available in small quantities in Australia. When I start restocking my store I will investigate if I can stock Permalife economically. You should just use a good copier paper such as Reflex. A lighter weight acid free kraft paper would work too. If you're in Brisbane you can stop by the bindery and I'll give you a metre of Permalife. DAS
for the spine stiffener, I noticed that you measured the text block at the front and not at the binding. Is there a reason for thi?. My binding end tends to be thicker.
This binding should have minimal swell and no more than the board thickness.
Books I made around 300-400 pages with this technique are having text block sag after standing on shelf for 6 months. I don’t have the equipment for rounding, sadly. Any ideas to prevent that sag with this bind? Would using mull on the spine help prevent it? Or cutting some board to put under the text block while the book is on the shelf?
Book shoe
What's been tripping me up with any of the stiff spine bindings is the width between the spine stiffener and the board. You said it depends on the covering material. How so? Is it the width of the covering material plus some other width- or a multiple of the covering material width? Some instructions say double the width of the board width. Could you give a little more info?
Good question. If the gap is too narrow the book won't open well, or worse will tear the pastedown from the textblock. But too wide doesn't have many down sides - maybe doesn't look as good. So it is better to be on the wider side. If you think about what will end up inside the groove, especially when the cover is fully open it's something like 3 layers of covering material and the board. So for a 3mm board you would expect 4-5mm would be sufficient. I used to use 5mm for books A5/A4 in size. But then I came across Peter Verheyen's recommendation of 7mm, which is what I mostly use now. I find this opens much better because there is a bit of flexibility in this groove area and lets the board clear the should when opening flat, and it looks good. I think double the board width works because the shoulder is normally the board width, and with similar reasoning should open well. So for a 3mm board using double board width 6mm should work, but if you make it 7mm it's being safe:) I will go less than 7mm now if using thin boards and small book (say A6) and I'm after a certain look. Hope this helps. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks. I usually work with Imperial (being across the pond) instead of metric but thinking of switching. Seems to be easier to deal with metric. And yes, I feel that a gap slightly wider than the two boards would help. Appreciate your quick response. Going to do a text book today.
Great Work ! I have some technical questions. What are the basics differences between Cover binding and Bradel binding ? Because the cover technique it seems me used in both bindings the only difference that I can discern is, at the bradel binding used paper to connect boards and spine stiffener. But to me it looks like the bradel is another subcategory of cover binding.
Yes, you're right, they are close to identical. I was originally taught the "English" method of doing a cased square back, and the difference with the Bradel is a strip of paper and some technique. But I don't think I'd go back to not including that strip of paper, and for this I believe it is worth recognising as a different structure. Then there is the discussion about whether a in-boards Bradel and a cased one are the same binding. The end product is essentially the same, but how you get there is very much different. Happy binding! DAS
Love the video as always! I have a few questions tho. Why did you make the spine only 1.5 times the with of the boards and not 2? And why is the spine stiffener paper on the other side than the spine itself? I assume this is also the reason why why the spine is not two times the thickness of the board but it is not fully clear to me haha. Also, can I just use mull on the spine? you used some strong paper, but I'm more accustomed to using mull. Does the paper serve any specific purpose or is it just what was laying around?
For thinner books - well most books I'd do square backed - if you make the spine piece 2 board thickness plus text, once your include covering material etc it is noticeably thicker than the main body of the book. There are exceptions when I might go 2 board thicknesses - covering with thin paper. Yes, you can use mull. It adds some strength. Didn't follow the other side question, sorry.
Great video, thanks for sharing ♥ Love this technique.
This just may be my favorite! What type of binding and sewing method would you recommend for a beginner? Love your videos!!
This is a good starting point. I like the rounded and backed case binding as it covers so many foundation techniques. But backing is hard without backing boards. The Coptic style sewn book is popular because you don't need to trim the book edge and don't need any presses. There are a few other bindings like this that I don;t have videos on, but there are plenty in the internet - crisscross binding (aka secret Belgian) and long stitch. Good luck! DAS
DAS Bookbinding Thank you! I love learning new things. Book binding is such a beautiful craft. I have some supplies coming. I can’t wait to give it a go. Love your easy to follow videos!
I am writing this message from Turkey and thank you for this incredibly informative video. I use PVA-based paper glue to glue the fabric to the cardboard. However, when I fold the edges like at 29:33 of your video, I have to hold it with my hands for almost 10 minutes and yet it can still come off. This is a really difficult process. Is there a compound that accelerates adhesion in the PVA adhesive you use?
PVA should tack much faster than that. Is there any chance it was frozen at some point?
@@DASBookbinding, Thank you for your quick reply. In case the PVA glue was damaged or frozen as you said, I also tried it with the newly purchased PVA glue, but nothing changed. Should I wait for it to dry first and then do the process? Note: The PVA glue I used afterwards is 3M Scotch brand and it says "Skole-og hobbylim" on it.
Gracias.
HI, love this video as I am just learning how to make books. Have a question. At 22:01 you show a ruler? Or is it a piece of cardboard you cut to measure and cut the cover material around the book? What is the width of this thin little ruler?
Home made width gauge made from binders board. I think I used the 20mm wide one in this. But I often use the 15mm too. All the best, DAS
Hey Darryn! I watched both this video and "made enpapers" video and I'm confused:( There is no extra white paper on this blue paper you attached it directly to the board but you've glued additional white paper in the "made endpapers" video. Is there a specific reason for that? Thank you very much.
This is a simplified version. The waste sheet is more important on a leather covered book where the text block needs some protection while covering in wet leather. Hope this makes sense. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Sure it does! Thank you very much!
Thanks very much for these excellent videos. I’ve been watching them for a couple years now, and really appreciate your thoroughness and structure. I return to this one often, as I’ve been using it to make notebooks as gifts and to sell. I’ve worked out most all the kinks, but I always get board warp when I let the book dry with open covers (as you suggest). Sometimes I can fight it if I keep it in the press for 2-3 days, but usually it creeps back eventually. I’ve tried standard board and davey board, and covered with arrestox and with paper-backed cloth. I’ve had better luck covering with kraft paper than with cloth. In all the cases, I’m using mc/pva mix to glue out the endpapers to the cover. Would it help to switch to pva for the pastedowns, or is there another way to equalize the pull between cloth on the outside and paper on the inside? Thanks again so much for this service you do us!
Have you seen my video on how to stop boards warping? It's all about balancing the pull of materials. Pull can be minimised or it can be balanced. But it always there. A bit of warp inwards is a good thing. It sounds like your warp too much in. So you could put an external draw sheet on the outside and pre-warp the board out a bit. This will make it stiffer too. This is common to do with leather binding because leather has such strong pull. Often you make the board super stiff by covering in paper both side and then pre warp in with an extra layer inside to counter the strong outward pull of the covering leather. Hope this helps.
@@DASBookbinding I’ve seen the video, but somehow still struggle with this one; I’ll have to watch it again. I’ll also try the external draw sheet. Is it common for fabric to pull less than paper? Many thanks for the help!!
At 26:00, is the groove then adhered to the text block/paste down or is it just a crease in the book cloth?
This is trickier question than you might expect. I glue out the full pastedown so if the cloth was all at the same level under the board, it would adhere all the way to the spine fold. In reality the cloth has to rise up to go around the spine board which stops it getting glued all the way to the spine. This is a good thing. The book would not open well if the pastedown was attached all the way tot he spine fold. It tends to just work and no one really addresses this little technical point. I will make a video about this in the future, but I'm still doing research on it. I'm asking other bookbinders that teach a lot how they address this, and looking for documentation, of which there isn't a lot. Anyway, well spotted. btw, this is why this gap has to be wide enough and the main reason why people who make this gap too small have trouble opening their book. There is another factor at play too.
I'm a programmer, and I tend to listen to classical when I work as well. Usually Hendel, Salieri or Camille Saint-Saëns, a bit more uptempo. I find the conflicting instruments help me access that second-level thinking required for programming work.
I would assume the calmer tones without those conflicts in the melody does the same for work requiring concentration on a single, learned task that requires more of the first-level thinking.
You've thought about this more than me:) DAS
I really enjoy watching your work. First class!
Would you show how to bind a book that would lay flat when open?
I would like to make a sketch book where I could draw across two pages if necessary.
The sewn boards bindings is a really good option.
Excellent in every way - including the Bach! ("Adventures in Bachbinding...?" Sorry, Dad joke.)
I've just finished watching this video for the 2nd or 3rd time, and am I right in that the only mechanical connection between the text block and the cover is just the 3mm tipping of the end papers?
Ah - I see you sew the endpapers in with the rest of the text block...
Also spine lining and 3 sewing supports.
I have a question. Shouldn't the spine stiffener be the same width of the text block?
It's an interesting question. For a rounded Bradel with a spine stiffener that will be shaped to the round of the spine, the the spine stiffener is the same width. For the square back version where you are after a groove at the outside joint the spine piece (it's a bit more than a stiffener in this case) it is usually about the width of the text with boards (or a bit less). If the spine piece was the same width as the text I don;t think it would be as aesthetically pleasing plus I think there is a mechanical issue. This is a hollow back binding. When you open the book the book wants to throw up. If the cover material is attached right at the shoulder of the text and to the spine piece I don't see how the text can throw up. It might put a lot of pressure on the inside joint and would act like a tight-back binding. Hope this makes sense. Yours, DAS
@@DASBookbinding thanks for the answer. Time for my third try (the other two cover I made failed :V)
Should I trim the text block before glueing/reinforcing the spine? I tend to have some trouble making sure all the sewn signatures stay aligned with each other, so I'm afraid that if I trim them before reinforcing the spine, once I do reinforce it, the edges won't be even anymore.
Always glue the spine before trimming. Good luck.
@@DASBookbinding Thank you!!
Thank you for this. I’d been struggling to get the overlap of the boards and text block consistent. I like the idea of leaving the trimming of the boards till the stage where the spine is attached. You also help me solve the problem I was having with spine thickness (i had previously been making the spine the same thickness as the text block, but the idea of adding the thickness of the board helps in two ways: it makes the spine wider so that labelling is that much easier, but also helps with the way the book looks on the shelf. I have a question about the final gluing of the text block to the case: I’ve always left an unglued 5mm gap on the spine side to allow the book to be opened more easily, but I notice you glue the whole endpaper. What’s your feeling about this ? Thanks again. And I very much appreciate your skill and knowledge ! Very much appreciated !
What kind of caliper are you using to measure the text block thickness at 13:42?
Generically called a "dial thickness gauge". You can get cheap Chinese made ones and expensive American made and everything in between.
I just attempted this binding but was probably being too ambitious and tried to do a quarter cloth cover. I obviously did not take full account of the creases etc and the cloth was fine on one side but came up far too narrow on the other side! It didn't help that I had used a cloth that was quite stiff. Is there are advice for doing a quarter cloth covering for this binding style?
Check out how I mark up the boards and measure the spine piece in the rounded and backed case binding (which is a half binding - 1/4 covering with corners).
@@DASBookbinding That's the method I normally use, but it didn't work for the flat back bradel binding. I very likely just mis-measured. I'll make sure I double check with my next attempt.
New to book binding. Your shop is closed, you should do some Amazon affiliate product links or try to get a shopify store or something?
Good idea! I did amazon affiliate for awhile. Made no money and spent ages on it:) Yes, the shopify store will be back, but I only send to Australia. Everywhere else has cheaper options than me. If you are in Australia just send me an email about what you are after and I can provide prices.
Hello, and thanks for all the excellent content!you said that the distance between the spine stiffner and the boards depends on th thicness of the board and the stiffness of the cloth , is there a precise calculation for this i'll use boards of 2.4 mm and a cloth of .3 and i'm wondering what distance i should choose. thank you again , i'm looking forward for the next video , cheerios!
No, a precise calculation would give a false sense of the process. There are so many factors that are hard to consider - how well the cloth is formed inside the joint for instance. A joint that is too tight is worse than if the joint is a bit too wide. For the standard type materials - about 2mm board, normal thickness book cloth, and about the same standard of workmanship, around 7mm usually works out well with a bit of margin for error on the high side. Then with experience you can start to dial this is. If I use thinner board I will drop to 6mm for instance. In your case I would use 7mm. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding thank you very much.
Un excelente video, que pena no lograr entender toda la explicación, mi inglés es nivel medio 😕😀. Muchas gracias por compartirlo, intentaré que me queda la mitad de bueno que el tuyo😊.
👌👏👏👏👍👍👍
You're welcome. I'm sure it will turn out as good as mine!
I’m perplexed - or maybe just trying to be too mean. I’m binding A4 sheets but find I have to use A3 greyboard cut down to allow for the extra mms on the cover. I seem to be wasting a lot of greyboard. Am I missing a trick in buying greyboard which seems to be solely metric sizes or modifying A4 to make it go a bit further. Any tips? Love your videos and really enjoying learning a new hobby.
Binders board comes from the mill in large sheets. The size of most of mine are a bit over 1000x700mm. Because it is fairly cheap, most binders, even hobby binders, will buy these sheets if there is a local source. They are a pain to store. Every so often I spend an hour at the board cutter replenishing my stock of pre-cut boards. I keep a pile of boards cut long grain 20mm over size for A5 and A4. I also sell bundles of these in a selection in 4 thicknesses (which doesn't help you if you're not in Australia). I'd look for a supplier of the large sheets. For ease of storage cut them down like me to oversize for what you need. Good luck! DAS
Many thanks - it’s such a joy to start this hobby with you as my tutor. And many thanks for the Bach & other pieces which so suit your spoken advice. Lockdown here in UK might limit my options for now but I’ll seek out a large sheet supplier. :-)
One more question. I do not recall hearing the width of the turn ins that you used.
I don't remember. Anything between 15 and 20mm will work fine with this book. I try and remember to hold up the turn-in trimming gauge to the camera showing the width written on it. But maybe it is too fast. Ciao, DAS
What a great tutorial, Darryn!
I was just wondering whether the widthness of 60mm you use for the strong paper strip with the A5 format should be scaled for another book sizes.
No, the 60mm is more to do with the thickness of the book. Any additional material past an inch or so really doesn't add any value in attaching paper to the boards. But if the book is much thicker then there will be less paper on the boards and you may want to make the paper wider. Hope that makes sense. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you!
In minute 14:39, what kind of paper was that one?
The white one in the spine?
Any strong paper will be fine. Kraft paper would be okay. I was using Permalife. I regularly use a medium weight kozo washi for this too. DAS
What kind of paper did you use for the cover,please??
The cover is actually book cloth. It's Arbelave buckram, which can be bought from most bookbinding suppliers. The endpapers are pastepapers made by me using a paper that is no longer available. But any high rag content paper heavier than 110gsm should be good. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding thanks for your replay.I will try to look for it.
Very interested to know what your thoughts on number of sheets per signature... i see that you mostly do 4 sheets folded, im currently using 100gsm (68lb i think) and 170gsm (115gsm?) would 4 signatures be advisable? or more maybe 5 or 6 with the 100gsm... and less with the 170gsm? I cant seem to find much information about this explaining the advantages or disadvantages of more or less sheets per signature and whether this hinders the stability of book or not... I hope i have made sense in explaining my request for further knowledge. many thanks and take care
Hi. So a lot of things to consider. For this binding you want minimal swell. More paper to thread gives less swell, as well as thinner thread. For a square back binding you could go 6 sheets fine. I guess there is small loss in strength and flexibility, but probably not an issue with 110gsm or less paper. But if you need swell for rounding and backing you need more paper to thread. In which case if you go above 4 sheets you need to increase the thread thickness. The other thing with a rounded book is that if you have thick sections you will get noticeable steps (aka starts) in the rounded fore-edge. My sweet spot is 4 sheets per section and I adjust from there as needed. For the cased binding course I teach in person I use 3 sheet sections with 118gsm Mohawk paper and 18/3 linen thread. This gives a good amount of swell and makes backing easier. Hope this helps. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you very much for your reply, and that is good interesting information. Can i take from this that the thread thickness is not necessarily dependant on the weight of the paper or more sheets, it has more to do with the swell for rounded backed books? In theory then i could use 25/3 thread with 170gsm paper on a square backed book? I have been using 5 sheets per signature and i think im comfortable with that with 100gsm, but maybe 4 for the 170gsm? Thank you
@@bishopbespoke5066 I think you do want to use the strongest thread - the thickest - possible. If you have thick paper and thick sections you can use thicker thread and not produce much swell. But thin paper and/or thin sections will require thin thread. Many of the heavier papers tend to be soft and you don;t want to use a thin thread with them because they tend to cut them easily. Having said all that 25/3 is a good all rounder size thread that can be used for must jobs. 170gsm paper and I would be thinking 3 sheet sections as a preference but you should be able to get away with 4. DAS
As one who prefers no music, it would be helpful if you would provide a link to the no music version of each video. I searched in vain for the no music version of this one.
Only the early video, and then not all of these, have no music versions.
That strong, 80gsm, high cotton content paper you use looks ideal for this purpose. Unfortunateliy I'm having problems to find something like this here. Could you suggest an alternative? (I'd swear I've seen kraft paper used in similar designs but I don't know if that would be a correct choice).
Cheers
Yes, craft paper would be a good substitute, It usually has long fibres and is a strong paper. All the best, Darryn
Hi Darryl. What determines the decision to use or not use MULL on the spine? I've generally used it for all bindings with or without tapes but note that many of your binding techniques don't use it.
The mull reinforces the inner joint - the attachment point for cased books. If this joint is reinforced by other means, such as cloth jointed endpapers, then the additional mull wouldn't be needed. I can't think of any of my bindings where the book block is only held in the case with paper. But it's early and I'm not very awake yet. Maybe I have books like this? DAS
@@DASBookbinding The Steifbroschuren without tapes does not introduce mull however, given their small size, I guess this is not necessary. Keep safe, we are all in bigtime NSW lockdown many, including myself, devoid of work however, 209 Bach cantatas and 104 Haydn symphonies and some re-doing old book bindings will hopefully see me through!
@@DASBookbinding So for this book why did you not use mull? If using mull, could the fraying out of the tape ends be skipped (would the mull mask the tapes sufficiently)?
@@gapop If the tapes show through the pastedown, they will show as a lump even with a layer of mull. But you don't have to fray them out. It's just an option. DAS
@@DASBookbinding I came into the comments to find out about the mull because I also wondered why you hadn’t used it in this project. To clarify, is mull not necessary in this instance because of the paper board joint? Or is it something to do with the ramieband and how the endpapers are sewn directly to the text block?
If I was using this technique for a book with a larger text block, would it be a good idea to add mull to the spine for extra strength?
would this be ok to use for a thicker book?
No, best used on thinner books. Rounded and backed best for thick books as the backing stops the text sagging in the boards.
@@DASBookbinding thank you for clarifying 😊
I like the music version
So do I! But we're in the minority. DAS
Even if you have decades playing guitar, the Golberg variations is an extremely difficult piece. A lot of talent is required to play it as Sayles does.
Love the music...
Great videos as usual!! Is there anyway t contact you personally? I’d like to send you some pictures and videos of my work for critique
Contact me via my website dasbookbinding.com DAS
What is the purpose of mixing paste with PVA?
To get the advantage of both adhesives. You get the fast tack of PVA but it stays open long enough that if you have to you can reposition something. All the best, DAS
These endpapers are different than the endpapers in the made endpapers tutorial
Yes. All endpaper designs are part of a continuum. In the stand alone video I demonstrated the situation they have most commonly been used historically - 19th century English style bindings - following published instructions from this period. For this video I changed it a bit for the significantly different binding. For instance, the waste is much more important on a leather binding and not really needed in this case. The book is fairly thin so I think I remember adding an extra folio of white to add a bit of bulk. Did it make a difference? Maybe, maybe not? But it is always interesting to experiment.
@@DASBookbinding
Thank you so much
Your videos are very useful
music is fine!!!
Why paste on the frayed bands instead of pea glue?
You had me for a moment, what's pea glue. You want to be able to spread the frayed out what-ever nice and evenly and work it flat. Hard to do this with PVA because of the fast tack. And you don;t want to get PVA over your favourite bonefolder. You can use PVA if you're trying to minimise the moisture you put into the paper, or you don;t have paste available - which is often the case with me:) All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding jeez my spell check! Thanks for the answer. That makes sense
Do you know what pressure is exerted by a nipping press? I reckon you are the sort of chap that would know. :)
Good question. I don't have a number. Steel presses exert far more force than needed for most modern bookbinding applications. That's why home made presses work just fine. Sorry no answer. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Cheers. I am about to start making a press. It is really difficult to get a second hand one at a sensible price. Various options occurred for powering it bt it will be a keep it simple project.
Nice music.
;) THANKS
Don't like the labeling method.. 😂 apart from this, really good and well made video!
I think paper labels are under rated:) Take care and all the best, DAS
👏👏👏👏
Love this, you just shouldn’t have put the lanel on like that 😵💫