Tim, this is one of the best sharpening theory videos I've found. You have obviously coalesced an entire career into these insights. Thank you so much!
I was checking my files with a craftsman chain I wanted to see what was being removed so I marked the cut part blade on the where the file scrapes away with a red magic marker and to my surprise one file took metal from the side of the plate but did not from the top beak part at least it showed me how it was filing so I could use the correct file size....Great video thanks.
This was a great video. Gave me a lot more questions to find answers to though. I have been using a chainsaw for 6ish years and just starting this last year to start to see all the complexities of it all, as well as begin to understand some of the principles. I have files from 7/32 down to 1/8 for different chains. The last few months I have also been trying to learn chain grinding for a tree service. It would be nice to have about 10-15 different chain variations and see what changes give what results. Most of the chains that I like that are “self feeding” or pull into the wood tend to be grabby or rough. Sometimes that’s from low rakers and sometimes I am wondering if the raker profile affects that also. Maybe you have done a video that shows some of these cause and effect situations. Sometimes I want fast cutting and sometimes when the stump to cut off is punky, I would like a cutter that lasts longer and less aggressive. I have watched some of your videos in the past and really appreciate your humble, thoughtful and respectful way of teaching. Appreciate your giving and generosity. Thanks. I have 9 children and what I learn I try to pass on, so you are making a difference. Thank you for what your doing. I am sure you don’t realize the impact you have had!!!! Gabriel
Hi Gabriel, Thanks for your comments. I’m very glad to have viewers who consider the depth of sharpening. I will have to say you have touched on most of the variables that confuse all operators who run and try to maintain an efficient and safe saw chain. I think the answer is - why are there so many chai types, sizes and designs? It’s because there are a lot of variables. Not just in the chain and maintenance of it but in the wood and fiber challenges. Most of the issues come from damage and not the sharpening. Whatever chain tooth you sharpen, whether filing or grinding, try to maintain the original design and characteristics. I will see if I can put together a summery video of your thoughts. Good Sawing!
You can search saw chain on my TH-cam channel and it will group the videos on the topic. Looking at the basics can answer a lot of questions. Good Sawing!
One of the little saws I have; has an .043 3/8lp. The one I'm comparing it to has an .050 3/8lp. My question is; are the cutters the same size, and do they take the same size file? I just got back into chainsaws. In my younger years; I ran Stihl 051, 075, and 090; with 30", and 42", and 60" respectively. But now; at 70; 0:02 I'm getting back into chainsaws; but battery operated. I have a few mini saws, a 10", 12", and 14" Greenworks, and two EGO 18", and one EGO 24"! I have loads of fun with them. I can eyeball the size of a file that LOOKS to be correct; but I was just wondering about the cutter size between the two gauge sizes. Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.
Ya I had a problem with a craftsman chain you need a little magnifying glass to really get a good look at how and where its taking metal use a magic marker like bright red mark the metal where you file then take a few strokes then look at it with a magnifying glass to see how its filing the tooth. Maybe it will work for you.
I'm not really understanding file size. I'm pretty sure that the cutters aren't the same size for a 3/8 .043, and a 3/8 .050. Am I wrong? Would you use the same size file for both chains? And yes; I do know what the various numbers mean. It just seems like the cutters are bigger on my .050 chains; compared to the .043.
.050 and .043 is the gauge of the drive link that matches the guide bar rail. The 3/8 is the pitch that matches sprockets. The are different size or profiles of teeth. Low profile 3/8 or one manufacturer calls Pico, is usually 5/32 or 9/64 file. Other 3/8 are 11/64 or 7/32. If you know the manufacture of the chain you can look up correct sizes on their website. If you would like I can set up a Zoom meeting and show you what you need if you have your saw and saw chain.
@ForestApps Thanks; I thought so! I have switched out the chains on all my saws to full chisel; and the replacements are from different vendors; so that would explain it. Fingers crossed; I haven't run into any trees yet with nails or screws in them. I do a pretty good job of freehand filing; so I'm not too worried about it.
@JaMaLKhan-rg4fx Battery Saws with 3/8 chain is 5/32” file. Stihl recommends 9/64”. .325 chains can be 5/32” or 3/16” files. Check your owners manual for details.
@@ForestApps i have chinese cheap battery chainsaw 6 inch bar idk itd parameters ، i have bigger files and thin file i have is 5/32 which is still very big hardly i managed to file on 5/32 and small trigonal file today i saw 9/64 i tried it it is perfect,
Tim, this is one of the best sharpening theory videos I've found. You have obviously coalesced an entire career into these insights. Thank you so much!
Thank you Bill. Good Sawing to you!
A dull tool is a dangerous tool. Keep ‘em sharp!
I was checking my files with a craftsman chain I wanted to see what was being removed so I marked the cut part blade on the where the file scrapes away with a red magic marker and to my surprise one file took metal from the side of the plate but did not from the top beak part at least it showed me how it was filing so I could use the correct file size....Great video thanks.
Good Sawing to You!
Great educational video, the best I’ve seen on the subject. Thank you.
Thank You!
This was a great video. Gave me a lot more questions to find answers to though. I have been using a chainsaw for 6ish years and just starting this last year to start to see all the complexities of it all, as well as begin to understand some of the principles. I have files from 7/32 down to 1/8 for different chains. The last few months I have also been trying to learn chain grinding for a tree service. It would be nice to have about 10-15 different chain variations and see what changes give what results. Most of the chains that I like that are “self feeding” or pull into the wood tend to be grabby or rough. Sometimes that’s from low rakers and sometimes I am wondering if the raker profile affects that also. Maybe you have done a video that shows some of these cause and effect situations. Sometimes I want fast cutting and sometimes when the stump to cut off is punky, I would like a cutter that lasts longer and less aggressive. I have watched some of your videos in the past and really appreciate your humble, thoughtful and respectful way of teaching. Appreciate your giving and generosity. Thanks. I have 9 children and what I learn I try to pass on, so you are making a difference. Thank you for what your doing. I am sure you don’t realize the impact you have had!!!! Gabriel
Hi Gabriel, Thanks for your comments. I’m very glad to have viewers who consider the depth of sharpening.
I will have to say you have touched on most of the variables that confuse all operators who run and try to maintain an efficient and safe saw chain. I think the answer is - why are there so many chai types, sizes and designs? It’s because there are a lot of variables. Not just in the chain and maintenance of it but in the wood and fiber challenges.
Most of the issues come from damage and not the sharpening. Whatever chain tooth you sharpen, whether filing or grinding, try to maintain the original design and characteristics.
I will see if I can put together a summery video of your thoughts.
Good Sawing!
You can search saw chain on my TH-cam channel and it will group the videos on the topic. Looking at the basics can answer a lot of questions. Good Sawing!
Hello Tim , I’m new follower ,I want to ask you where can I get one of those chain tooth for training purposes I’ll appreciate your answer
Available from SirensProject warren@sirensproject.org
The Oregon metal tooth is not available but Warren has a printed plastic tooth.
Thank you very much I’ll get one
Tim, is there a brand of file you prefer over all others. Thanks in advance!
I use Oregon and PFERD files. Have for many years. The PFERD is a finer cut but the Oregon sharpens faster.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Good Sawing to you!
One of the little saws I have; has an .043 3/8lp.
The one I'm comparing it to has an .050 3/8lp.
My question is; are the cutters the same size, and do they take the same size file?
I just got back into chainsaws. In my younger years; I ran Stihl 051, 075, and 090; with 30", and 42", and 60" respectively.
But now; at 70; 0:02 I'm getting back into chainsaws; but battery operated. I have a few mini saws, a 10", 12", and 14" Greenworks, and two EGO 18", and one EGO 24"! I have loads of fun with them.
I can eyeball the size of a file that LOOKS to be correct; but I was just wondering about the cutter size between the two gauge sizes.
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.
If you will send me a picture of the two chains I can tell you exact. I think both of those will be 5/32 file diameter.
Ya I had a problem with a craftsman chain you need a little magnifying glass to really get a good look at how and where its taking metal use a magic marker like bright red mark the metal where you file then take a few strokes then look at it with a magnifying glass to see how its filing the tooth. Maybe it will work for you.
I'm not really understanding file size. I'm pretty sure that the cutters aren't the same size for a 3/8 .043, and a 3/8 .050. Am I wrong?
Would you use the same size file for both chains?
And yes; I do know what the various numbers mean. It just seems like the cutters are bigger on my .050 chains; compared to the .043.
.050 and .043 is the gauge of the drive link that matches the guide bar rail. The 3/8 is the pitch that matches sprockets. The are different size or profiles of teeth. Low profile 3/8 or one manufacturer calls Pico, is usually 5/32 or 9/64 file. Other 3/8 are 11/64 or 7/32.
If you know the manufacture of the chain you can look up correct sizes on their website.
If you would like I can set up a Zoom meeting and show you what you need if you have your saw and saw chain.
@ForestApps Thanks; I thought so! I have switched out the chains on all my saws to full chisel; and the replacements are from different vendors; so that would explain it.
Fingers crossed; I haven't run into any trees yet with nails or screws in them.
I do a pretty good job of freehand filing; so I'm not too worried about it.
...it's just that I thought there would be an 'industry standard' for cutter size; like there is for gauge and pitch.
Sorry this didn't really help me to understand what file I need to sharpen my stihl ms170 ...
A good file can make your day!!! Just try it, yo.u can always learn something new
Very true! Thanks for watching. Good Sawing Rick!
There is a file size between 5/32 & 3/16 that's kinda hard to find some .325 chains call for
9/64” available at Stihl dealers
@@ForestAppsfor battery powered chainsaw
@JaMaLKhan-rg4fx Battery Saws with 3/8 chain is 5/32” file. Stihl recommends 9/64”. .325 chains can be 5/32” or 3/16” files. Check your owners manual for details.
@@ForestApps i have chinese cheap battery chainsaw 6 inch bar idk itd parameters ، i have bigger files and thin file i have is 5/32 which is still very big hardly i managed to file on 5/32 and small trigonal file today i saw 9/64 i tried it it is perfect,
@JaMaLKhan-rg4fx Good Sawing to you!
No demonstration of how to use the file or the file size for a particular chaim.
If you search @ForestApps you will find several videos on filing.