Buddy, you need to put your hands as far apart on the handle as you can and then turn, it’s called leverage. The way you were trying to screw it in, you may as well not have even put a stick through the eye. 🤦♂️
Hey, I had pretty much the same problem. The tip was a huge help, thank you. Even though I think you could have been nicer about it, thanks a lot anyway.
Not doubting they are not of the best quality, but there is some serious user error going on here. You keep putting your hands almost at the center of your handle and I think that is probably your biggest issue. Also, whenever I use them for building a shelter, or something of that nature, I usually have a much longer piece of wood I am drilling into. That little chunk of wood will be really hard to keep from moving. Basically you are fighting yourself.
Just found you channel today and am working through your play list. I bought the same 1 inch auger you have about two months back (September 2023) and immediately gave it a try. I was trying to bore holes in various sticks to make a bushcraft chair as a back yard project. Ran into the same troubles you did, then realized what both you and some of the comments here talked about: wood was super dry and it was hardwood (oak). At least I was trying to cut into the side of the grain, which you demonstrated was a lot easier. (Thanks for that - will be useful knowledge down the road.) Because of this video and the comments, I've learned a lot. I especially like the bar of soap idea - wish I had thought of that! I'll use it the next time I give the auger a whirl. This is a tool that needs to be actively learned, I think, unlike a power drill. (Side note: another item I'm trying out for drilling holes when bushcrafting is the old school bit and brace. Similar cutting principle, but different mechanical layout.) Oh yeah, one final thing... you mentioned you thought the scotch eye on the 1 inch might be good for making dowels. I can confirm that it works from experience. Batoning it, tapered side down, does the job and it works even better on a stick you trim slightly beforehand. (I made the handle for the auger from a piece of the same dry oak I was boring through and it worked fine.) My only concern was being careful of the weld point, since it might weaken over time. Batoning on the top of the eye and then shifting the blows onto a stick laid across the shank once the eye got further down seemed to work OK. (Hopefully that protects the weld a bit. Wouldn't want to use anything other then wood or a rubber mallet to hit it with though.) Nonetheless, it will let you make dowels that can be used to peg into the hole the auger cuts. Also, that cylindrical leather piece you left at home is designed to slip over over the auger bit to protect your hand so you can use it as a handle when batoning a dowel. The site I bought from had pretty lame instructions and the use for the cylinder wasn't made clear at the time, but I eventually figured it out. I also saw your video on the Grohmann belt knife. Very helpful! I was gifted one by my son-in-law and I have come to really love that thing. I was especially happy to see you using it for batoning and striking ferro rods. Excellent review. Anyways, thanks for your videos. Cheers from Coquitlam B.C.
Hi. Thanks for video. Few comments. 1. Failure to properly restrain your working wood means you cant apply max force. 2. Increasing your lever reduces the force you must apply. You kept your hands against the metal of the drill. You had to apply maximum human force. Put a 2 foot stick in the scotch eye as a “T” or have 90% of the stick on one side. Reduce your human effort 3-7 times by using the lever properly. 3. When buying a “cheap” $15 unsharpened chinese implement…learn to sharpen it with a metal file in less than 5 minutes. Any woodworking tool MUST be sharpened regularly….Or buy a $150 razor sharpened tool that you will still have to sharpen at the end of a full days work. 4. Buy the cheapest tool that meets your maximum expected torque application and the metal is tough enough to hold an acceptable sharp edge for a defined number of uses. Otherwise you’ll cuss when you have to sharpen your $3 knockoff after each 2 inches of drilling OR when you realize your $175 Scotch Eye fell out of you pack while on the move through the woods.
You tried using the 1.5 inch auger on hard wood. That was oak. You will never get that thing through. You have to use soft wood that is still green. Even then, the smaller size will be a lot easier.
You need like a 4 foot log and a 2 foot handle. The screw kept pulling, so I think it would make it through eventually. If you had a 1.5 inch power drill, you wouldn't' think for a moment you could hold that piece steady with the sides of your feet.
Hello, I've last seen one of these about 40 years ago when I was really little. I remember grandpa say, you are supposed to take about a quarter turn than walk it hack a bit, and then keep going like that a bit at a time. We are not machines! I bought the one with the leather pouch you have there and I love it for cutting holes in pine planks I make out in the woods with my draw knife.
I bought a 1 inch auger on amazon kind of like the one you bought but the profile of the cutting edge is actually like a double spade bit (4 cutting edges). And guess what? I have not had the opportunity to use it yet :( AS for the Auger you can't return, why not try and reprofile the edge and give it another go? There's got to be a way to file or grind it to improve it's cutting edge. At this point, what's the harm? Beats using it as a door stopper.
Thanks for this. Making a small log cabin for my daughter in the woods and want to use pegs to hold it together. Been looking at these for boring peg holes into the logs.
I think they’ll work better if you’re using green wood. Also, the kind with the tapered edge in the eye is designed so you can create pegs sized for the hole.
@@RaindanceBushcraft Thanks, yes, handy for making the pegs. Some of the wood is well seasoned but it is softwood so I think they will be ok. Just ordered an auger 5 minutes ago so will find out how it goes when I've collected enough logs to start building. I'm interested in making furniture too so hopefully I get good use. Thanks for the advice and replying. Good man. Subscribed..👍
Yellow birch - one of the hardest to drill types of wood found in North America ... used to make the yoke for oxen because it is considered unbreakable lol .
Interesting video, I am still wondering if I should get one. The tests are made trying to drill the end grain of the log which is very hard and the bit loose its bite very fast. Normally you will drill along the grain on the sides of the log. This will be much closer to the real use of this tool.
I have a couple of them, 1" and 3/4 " they do a good enough job with green wood, and I used one of them today to bore out the broken shaft of a spade, which was hardened ash. I guess it is the luck of the draw with these things, some are good some are not.
The one that had the welded part, looks like a settlers wrench, one side of it will be sharp. You can use that to make pegs to go through two holes you have made to form a joint when making items. Much better to cut into green wood than seasoned wood/dry wood. They are an absolute b**ch to use in hard dry wood when your using inch plus diameter. Thanks for the vid, appreciate your time and effort 👍
In all of my years utilizing Scotch Eyed Wood Auger's, and the friends of mine who use them, I have never seen or heard of anyone using the 1&1/2" bit. The 1" is the most commonly used for heavy construction. I personally use my 10mm, (close to the 1/2" sae ) more than any other size, for my most commonly used bit. Also note that the longer you make the twisting rod for your bit, the easier it'll be. Respectfully, Mr. T.C. Cross Detroit, Michigan
Get yourself a set of crocksticks that can be used to make that extremely sharp. The triangular style are of course your best choice and only pull them into the cutting edge inside the spiral not the outside at first and pay attention to the existing angles. As I've said when it gets difficult to turn back up a bit then proceed further. You may find this helpful sugar bear.
Went thru this yesterday. Mine looks exactly like the 2nd welded one. Wouldn't bite past the screw. Wood was beech and dry. Am going to find geeener wood. Trying to make rocket-type stove. The luxury of finding the perfect log to use doesn't exist on the forest floor. I have 1 acre of old growth beech, maple and oak. Gonna go sharpen mine. Wish me luck.
Yeah, I wanted to do the exact same thing, which is why I was drilling into the centre of the log. Definitely going to try with greener wood next time.
Just an observation....while the lack of sharpness can certainly be a factor, you may also consider the fact that the bigger the diameter of auger, the more force is required to turn it as it goes into the wood deeper.
@@RaindanceBushcraft I actually just ordered two of them which are scheduled for delivery today. One as a last minute Christmas gift for my son who enjoys hiking and the outdoors as well as doing things outdoors. And one for myself. I figure I can make some pretty epic deer blinds.
One more thing we used a longer tube for the eye enabling one to create a longer tenon in case you desire a severe angle in your particular connection of course drilling at the desired angle as well those we of course used a longer four fluted ivy classic auger to keep your knuckles away from your work.
1 1/2 inches of drill bit takes some ooomph, which you didn't have enough of . It is designed I think more for green wood also. Try taking the drill out every few turns to help with friction in the hole, also a little soap on the auger will help it go through easier
Its all about the work piece not being held tight, and your stick aint big enough. You cant even use a power drill press without work holding if skme kind. a vice in a shop but ive found a rstchet strap to a larger heavier object can work great taking up little space or weight. Im surprised you got as fsr as you did honestly. So try them on the side of a log big enough you cant move it with a longer stick and or ratchet strap a small log to a rock or log or tree and your off to the races.
They both look sub par hopefully you spent accordingly???? The black 🖤 1&1/2" one is useless it doesn't form the tenon and of course it arrived broken!!! The 1" just might break off the eye 👁🗨 while hammering it on the end of a branch 🌿 or sapling during tenon formation!!! Hopefully no more than $10.00 for both!!! Just curious why you opted for such long ones???? You may want to check out the new 1&1/2" version from Amazon I think made by (and I'm probably spelling this wrong) wylon or Waylon??? Anyway there $44.00+ but look beefy enough which I will order Wednesday 10-26-23 along with the 5/8" version to pin the 1&1/2" tenon so it won't back out. Just offering a little Intel sweetheart!!!
I'm pretty sure the auger is supposed to be used on green wood for the mortise, and the eye on dry wood for the tenon. The green wood mortise will shrink onto the dry wood tenon and grab it tightly.
Sweetheart don't chock up on your T handle move your hands out to the ends of the stick for more leverage move your hands apart to the ends and in a (SHTF) sinario drill the holes before cutting the piece away from the tree 🎄!!! As it will hold it firmly for you so you can drill without using your feet as a clamp!!! Also cover your screw pilot with tape and sharpen your auger with really fine Emory cloth or a really fine wet stone skinny enough to do the job. Preferably 400 grit or finer maby 600 grit to make it razor sharp so you don't have to work so hard sugar bear 🐻!!! The reason for the tape to protect the pilot screw during sharpening.
With dry wood you need a much wider handle and pull it out periodically to keep the hole clean. You probably needed to drill a small pilot hole first. Out of the box tools are usually not sharp enough.
I can see the taper as just enabling a tight fit. If you have a piece of wood that is about the right size (but is not uniform in thickness ... i.e. gets thicker along its length), then stick the thin side in first and shove it in there real good. Hopefully the thinner part at the right diameter will hold well because of the taper ...
These tools are best used for things like sticks when building a shelter. It gives you the ability to not use cordage on shelters, platforms, build a ladder, etc
I love videos with 100% honesty, especially when the products don't work well or work out! I have been looking at these for quite awhile also. So I very mush appreciate your video. Your honesty and review on AFFORDABLE gets a subscription from me, keep the bushcraft AFFORDABLE Chinese products coming. Also if you do a video on sharpening the auger/s and then a retest on their performance with seasoned and unseasoned wood. Even on a huge log that is not going to move around as you drill? That would be amazing. Cheers
Видишь ли друг, первая проблемма большого сверла в том что оно большое и захватывает большое количество волокон идущих вдоль сверления. Резец просто не в состоянии разрезать эти безконечные волокна и застревает. Меньшее сверло захватывает меньше волокон поэтому идет легче. А при сверлении сбоку ты проходишь перпендикулярно волокнам, поэтому так сверлить легче. В основном такой бур нужен именно для перпендикулярного реза при постройке мебели, жилища и тому подобных вещей, когда практически всегда будет именно перпендикулярное волокнам сверление. Спасибо за видео. Привет из Украины!
Sweetheart why are you coring that round to begin with??? And if you wish to clamp it still run your ATV tire up on it angled up so you can have room for your knuckles while drilling sweetie.
What might help a little is you have a lever but your not using the mechanical advantage that the lever provides- hands in the middle. But that might not make any difference given the sharpness etc you point out. Longer lever might help too. Thanks though cool and good review
The drilling is the relatively easy part however the most difficult part is making the doweled end when trying to remove the stick from the eye which is near impossible. The concept is great but reality is this tool takes way too much effort to be useful - and you need to carry decent gloves or you will tear your hands up.
Also wear gloves unless you're already thoroughly calist to resist the blisters that may rear there ugly heads. And don't just keep twisting in one direction ocilate when it gets difficult and continue.
Thanks for reviewing two different models and showing the trials of using new tools. It's worth sharpening for better results. Better quality models, would eventually need sharpening anyway. Today, I got the same 1" model you have. I'll fiddle around with it and see.
Should probably fasten the material your working on to something solid like a stump maybe? Increase the handle length perhaps 🤔 I don’t know could ya bring the work to your waist I’m thinking. I don’t know why people do their job on the ground, seems so primitive. I’m no auger expert but I know you need downwards force along with steady and straight accuracy to drill just about anything really
I'm thinking that Amazon is not the best place to find one of these. I think I'll see if I can find a single maker or small team to give my money to instead.
@@RaindanceBushcraft reading all the comments I was hoping you, or someone else would have recommended a high quality auger. I bought one on Amazon and am happy with the few holes I’ve drilled, but would like to test the one I have with a high quality one. I’m sure my 14$ auger wouldn’t be ‘top quality’.
It appears the chip in the leading Edge is the problem or at least part of the problem. If you can’t return it perhaps it could be sharpened. What ya got to loose, thanks for the review. I hope you have more luck with the 1” and fresh cut logs
I hate to be the one to break it to you but there is nothing wrong with the tools. You need to start working out everyday and eating right. Build some muscle man and a good pair of work boots will help as well.
A REAL hand powerd Auger is different than a drilling Auger. It has more to do with the cutting force being easier than lets say the sharpness. Look at the geometry of a real hand one. its going to be a much slower speed. These idiots who make adapters to drill aurgers are just wasting your money, time and energy.
I appreciate the video, but you're in shorts with a hatchet, and I didn't see a tourniquet. Get one and learn to use it. You never know when you could hit your leg and cause a self inflicted injury. Otherwise, fairly informative. Keep at it!
Buddy, you need to put your hands as far apart on the handle as you can and then turn, it’s called leverage. The way you were trying to screw it in, you may as well not have even put a stick through the eye. 🤦♂️
Maybe you need to make your handle longer and move your hands out
He claimed he didn't know what he was doing. Calm your tampon.
Fucking ay to that. So frustrating to watch!
Hey, I had pretty much the same problem. The tip was a huge help, thank you. Even though I think you could have been nicer about it, thanks a lot anyway.
yea... this bloke ain't gettin' it...
Not doubting they are not of the best quality, but there is some serious user error going on here. You keep putting your hands almost at the center of your handle and I think that is probably your biggest issue. Also, whenever I use them for building a shelter, or something of that nature, I usually have a much longer piece of wood I am drilling into. That little chunk of wood will be really hard to keep from moving. Basically you are fighting yourself.
Just found you channel today and am working through your play list.
I bought the same 1 inch auger you have about two months back (September 2023) and immediately gave it a try. I was trying to bore holes in various sticks to make a bushcraft chair as a back yard project. Ran into the same troubles you did, then realized what both you and some of the comments here talked about: wood was super dry and it was hardwood (oak). At least I was trying to cut into the side of the grain, which you demonstrated was a lot easier. (Thanks for that - will be useful knowledge down the road.)
Because of this video and the comments, I've learned a lot. I especially like the bar of soap idea - wish I had thought of that! I'll use it the next time I give the auger a whirl. This is a tool that needs to be actively learned, I think, unlike a power drill. (Side note: another item I'm trying out for drilling holes when bushcrafting is the old school bit and brace. Similar cutting principle, but different mechanical layout.)
Oh yeah, one final thing... you mentioned you thought the scotch eye on the 1 inch might be good for making dowels. I can confirm that it works from experience. Batoning it, tapered side down, does the job and it works even better on a stick you trim slightly beforehand. (I made the handle for the auger from a piece of the same dry oak I was boring through and it worked fine.) My only concern was being careful of the weld point, since it might weaken over time. Batoning on the top of the eye and then shifting the blows onto a stick laid across the shank once the eye got further down seemed to work OK. (Hopefully that protects the weld a bit. Wouldn't want to use anything other then wood or a rubber mallet to hit it with though.) Nonetheless, it will let you make dowels that can be used to peg into the hole the auger cuts. Also, that cylindrical leather piece you left at home is designed to slip over over the auger bit to protect your hand so you can use it as a handle when batoning a dowel. The site I bought from had pretty lame instructions and the use for the cylinder wasn't made clear at the time, but I eventually figured it out.
I also saw your video on the Grohmann belt knife. Very helpful! I was gifted one by my son-in-law and I have come to really love that thing. I was especially happy to see you using it for batoning and striking ferro rods. Excellent review.
Anyways, thanks for your videos. Cheers from Coquitlam B.C.
More realistic version of these videos ive seen. Good shit.
Hi. Thanks for video. Few comments. 1. Failure to properly restrain your working wood means you cant apply max force. 2. Increasing your lever reduces the force you must apply. You kept your hands against the metal of the drill. You had to apply maximum human force. Put a 2 foot stick in the scotch eye as a “T” or have 90% of the stick on one side. Reduce your human effort 3-7 times by using the lever properly. 3. When buying a “cheap” $15 unsharpened chinese implement…learn to sharpen it with a metal file in less than 5 minutes. Any woodworking tool MUST be sharpened regularly….Or buy a $150 razor sharpened tool that you will still have to sharpen at the end of a full days work. 4. Buy the cheapest tool that meets your maximum expected torque application and the metal is tough enough to hold an acceptable sharp edge for a defined number of uses. Otherwise you’ll cuss when you have to sharpen your $3 knockoff after each 2 inches of drilling OR when you realize your $175 Scotch Eye fell out of you pack while on the move through the woods.
and come to think of it, ever heard drilling smaller diameter first? What's with the suffering
@@meridiangpsllc5110 just a thought of losing $150 plus scotch-eyed auger makes my skin crawl.
You tried using the 1.5 inch auger on hard wood. That was oak. You will never get that thing through. You have to use soft wood that is still green. Even then, the smaller size will be a lot easier.
You need like a 4 foot log and a 2 foot handle. The screw kept pulling, so I think it would make it through eventually.
If you had a 1.5 inch power drill, you wouldn't' think for a moment you could hold that piece steady with the sides of your feet.
Hey Jes, the tapered edge is for sizing the dowel that would be going in the hole you drilled. See you on the next one.
Thanks for the review Jes, you sold me on my Dewalt 20V...lol
Hello, I've last seen one of these about 40 years ago when I was really little. I remember grandpa say, you are supposed to take about a quarter turn than walk it hack a bit, and then keep going like that a bit at a time. We are not machines! I bought the one with the leather pouch you have there and I love it for cutting holes in pine planks I make out in the woods with my draw knife.
I bought a 1 inch auger on amazon kind of like the one you bought but the profile of the cutting edge is actually like a double spade bit (4 cutting edges). And guess what? I have not had the opportunity to use it yet :( AS for the Auger you can't return, why not try and reprofile the edge and give it another go? There's got to be a way to file or grind it to improve it's cutting edge. At this point, what's the harm? Beats using it as a door stopper.
Thanks for this. Making a small log cabin for my daughter in the woods and want to use pegs to hold it together. Been looking at these for boring peg holes into the logs.
I think they’ll work better if you’re using green wood. Also, the kind with the tapered edge in the eye is designed so you can create pegs sized for the hole.
@@RaindanceBushcraft Thanks, yes, handy for making the pegs. Some of the wood is well seasoned but it is softwood so I think they will be ok. Just ordered an auger 5 minutes ago so will find out how it goes when I've collected enough logs to start building. I'm interested in making furniture too so hopefully I get good use. Thanks for the advice and replying. Good man. Subscribed..👍
This is my first time to your channel. You seem like a nice likeable guy. Thanks for the video. Keep up the great work. Cheers.
Thanks for watching!
6:16 "This seems a lot harder than it needs to be." 🤣 "I drilled a hole! (Now what?)" lmao
Try it on a tree trunk that is in the ground
Yellow birch - one of the hardest to drill types of wood found in North America ... used to make the yoke for oxen because it is considered unbreakable lol .
I love the commentary. Lol I'm too tired for this. Lol
It does blow my mind that everything was built with non electric tools at one point.
Interesting video, I am still wondering if I should get one. The tests are made trying to drill the end grain of the log which is very hard and the bit loose its bite very fast. Normally you will drill along the grain on the sides of the log. This will be much closer to the real use of this tool.
Aside from the one that arrived with a chip out of it, I’d say the tools behave better than the did for me. I really didn’t know what I was doing.
I have a couple of them, 1" and 3/4 " they do a good enough job with green wood, and I used one of them today to bore out the broken shaft of a spade, which was hardened ash. I guess it is the luck of the draw with these things, some are good some are not.
I had high hopes as well. You may have saved me 30 bucks and for that I thank you. Don't give up, keep searching for a big honker lol
Thank you for the reviews. Just confirmed which one I'm getting. Blessings from North Carolina.
What would you use this for in the woods?
Making shelters and furniture and stuff. Bushcrafting...
The one that had the welded part, looks like a settlers wrench, one side of it will be sharp. You can use that to make pegs to go through two holes you have made to form a joint when making items.
Much better to cut into green wood than seasoned wood/dry wood.
They are an absolute b**ch to use in hard dry wood when your using inch plus diameter.
Thanks for the vid, appreciate your time and effort 👍
Could make a rough camp stool or for holes and pegs for a semi-permanent shelter. I think they're used more in log cabin building.
In all of my years utilizing Scotch Eyed Wood Auger's, and the friends of mine who use them, I have never seen or heard of anyone using the 1&1/2" bit.
The 1" is the most commonly used for heavy construction.
I personally use my 10mm, (close to the 1/2" sae ) more than any other size, for my most commonly used bit.
Also note that the longer you make the twisting rod for your bit, the easier it'll be.
Respectfully,
Mr. T.C. Cross
Detroit, Michigan
Get yourself a set of crocksticks that can be used to make that extremely sharp. The triangular style are of course your best choice and only pull them into the cutting edge inside the spiral not the outside at first and pay attention to the existing angles. As I've said when it gets difficult to turn back up a bit then proceed further. You may find this helpful sugar bear.
I’ll give them a going-over for sure. Crock sticks. Noted. I’ll go look for them.
Went thru this yesterday. Mine looks exactly like the 2nd welded one. Wouldn't bite past the screw.
Wood was beech and dry.
Am going to find geeener wood. Trying to make rocket-type stove.
The luxury of finding the perfect log to use doesn't exist on the forest floor. I have 1 acre of old growth beech, maple and oak.
Gonna go sharpen mine. Wish me luck.
Yeah, I wanted to do the exact same thing, which is why I was drilling into the centre of the log. Definitely going to try with greener wood next time.
I have a couple of these in my wish list on etsy... good review sir
Just an observation....while the lack of sharpness can certainly be a factor, you may also consider the fact that the bigger the diameter of auger, the more force is required to turn it as it goes into the wood deeper.
Yeah, that’s true for sure. I need to spend more time playing around with these bits.
@@RaindanceBushcraft I actually just ordered two of them which are scheduled for delivery today. One as a last minute Christmas gift for my son who enjoys hiking and the outdoors as well as doing things outdoors. And one for myself. I figure I can make some pretty epic deer blinds.
1st time I have seen these used.. interesting...I can find some use 4 these! Thanx 4 the review!
I've always wanted to get one thanks for the review
Made me wince when watching you using a hatchet while wearing sandals. I tuned out.
One more thing we used a longer tube for the eye enabling one to create a longer tenon in case you desire a severe angle in your particular connection of course drilling at the desired angle as well those we of course used a longer four fluted ivy classic auger to keep your knuckles away from your work.
I bought two scotch eyes, the tap screw is too small, and with a bad shoulder they are a no go. I’ll try a carpenter’s brace and bit next.
I have a couple of carpenters' braces. Awesome tool; I love them
Is there a company that makes 'quality' versions of these?
1 1/2 inches of drill bit takes some ooomph, which you didn't have enough of . It is designed I think more for green wood also. Try taking the drill out every few turns to help with friction in the hole, also a little soap on the auger will help it go through easier
I like that soap idea. I'll have to try it.
@@RaindanceBushcraft My dad always used a bar of soap, I know it works great, Liquid soap I have no idea. Never tried it.
@@williamburdon6993 the bar sounds like the better idea.
Use Ballistol or even KY.😂
TY 4 warming me! Waiting for Amazon's cheapest to arrive! Will return right away if it fails
Its all about the work piece not being held tight, and your stick aint big enough. You cant even use a power drill press without work holding if skme kind. a vice in a shop but ive found a rstchet strap to a larger heavier object can work great taking up little space or weight.
Im surprised you got as fsr as you did honestly.
So try them on the side of a log big enough you cant move it with a longer stick and or ratchet strap a small log to a rock or log or tree and your off to the races.
They both look sub par hopefully you spent accordingly???? The black 🖤 1&1/2" one is useless it doesn't form the tenon and of course it arrived broken!!! The 1" just might break off the eye 👁🗨 while hammering it on the end of a branch 🌿 or sapling during tenon formation!!! Hopefully no more than $10.00 for both!!! Just curious why you opted for such long ones???? You may want to check out the new 1&1/2" version from Amazon I think made by (and I'm probably spelling this wrong) wylon or Waylon??? Anyway there $44.00+ but look beefy enough which I will order Wednesday 10-26-23 along with the 5/8" version to pin the 1&1/2" tenon so it won't back out. Just offering a little Intel sweetheart!!!
To be fair, I can whittle most wood, but anything sun or kiln dried is like rock mate.
That's exactly what my ex said!
Is that’s a granfors Bruks hatchet?
It’s the old Wetterlings Buddy hatchet. Gransfors makes one in the same size. The Wetterlings one has a thicker head, though.
Awesome video ❤️👍
Glad you didn't eat any beans before you started on that first log.
It helps to back the auger off and remove the wood when it gets difficult to turn.
Bonjour,
Avez-vous trouvé une tarière de meilleure qualité depuis cette démonstration?
Avez-vous regardé sur Etsy?
Pas encore. Pas de temps pour l’instant
I'm pretty sure the auger is supposed to be used on green wood for the mortise, and the eye on dry wood for the tenon.
The green wood mortise will shrink onto the dry wood tenon and grab it tightly.
I really knew nothing when I made that video.
@@RaindanceBushcraftThat's what SHE said!😂
A full length log would make your life much easier.
In hindsight, a lot of stuff would make it easier. I'm planning a followup video now that Ive actually gotten a bit of experience with the tools.
I would use that on soft wood, not on birch? Spruces and stuff, I have braces and bits and I can go thru a 2x4 no problem, with minimal effort
Sweetheart don't chock up on your T handle move your hands out to the ends of the stick for more leverage move your hands apart to the ends and in a (SHTF) sinario drill the holes before cutting the piece away from the tree 🎄!!! As it will hold it firmly for you so you can drill without using your feet as a clamp!!! Also cover your screw pilot with tape and sharpen your auger with really fine Emory cloth or a really fine wet stone skinny enough to do the job. Preferably 400 grit or finer maby 600 grit to make it razor sharp so you don't have to work so hard sugar bear 🐻!!! The reason for the tape to protect the pilot screw during sharpening.
With dry wood you need a much wider handle and pull it out periodically to keep the hole clean. You probably needed to drill a small pilot hole first. Out of the box tools are usually not sharp enough.
Yeah, I really didn’t know what I was doing. I really need to try it again.
I can see the taper as just enabling a tight fit. If you have a piece of wood that is about the right size (but is not uniform in thickness ... i.e. gets thicker along its length), then stick the thin side in first and shove it in there real good. Hopefully the thinner part at the right diameter will hold well because of the taper ...
Yeah, that could work for sure.
These tools are best used for things like sticks when building a shelter. It gives you the ability to not use cordage on shelters, platforms, build a ladder, etc
I love videos with 100% honesty, especially when the products don't work well or work out! I have been looking at these for quite awhile also. So I very mush appreciate your video. Your honesty and review on AFFORDABLE gets a subscription from me, keep the bushcraft AFFORDABLE Chinese products coming.
Also if you do a video on sharpening the auger/s and then a retest on their performance with seasoned and unseasoned wood. Even on a huge log that is not going to move around as you drill? That would be amazing. Cheers
Don’t turn it at the center. Move your hands out to the ends of the stick. That’s how you get more leverage.
Yeah, I did a lot wrong. I'm going to do another vid this summer, I hope.
Good effort.
Amazon is the Wild West of shopping. There’s other companies that definitely back their product. Thanks for the heads up.
2:57 that is to get the proper size dowel that fits the whole the other end make in order to build structure without needing nails/screws!!!
Yeah, I really didn't know anything when I shot that video. Ive been learning more since. I'll have to do a new vid pretty soon, I think...
Great video! Very cool! LOVE IT! FUN TO WATCH! WE LEARN MORE FROM MISTAKES! GREAT COMMENTS BELOW, GREAT GREAT GREAT!
Thanks for the review.
Видишь ли друг, первая проблемма большого сверла в том что оно большое и захватывает большое количество волокон идущих вдоль сверления. Резец просто не в состоянии разрезать эти безконечные волокна и застревает. Меньшее сверло захватывает меньше волокон поэтому идет легче. А при сверлении сбоку ты проходишь перпендикулярно волокнам, поэтому так сверлить легче. В основном такой бур нужен именно для перпендикулярного реза при постройке мебели, жилища и тому подобных вещей, когда практически всегда будет именно перпендикулярное волокнам сверление. Спасибо за видео. Привет из Украины!
Sweetheart why are you coring that round to begin with??? And if you wish to clamp it still run your ATV tire up on it angled up so you can have room for your knuckles while drilling sweetie.
Thanks!
What might help a little is you have a lever but your not using the mechanical advantage that the lever provides- hands in the middle. But that might not make any difference given the sharpness etc you point out. Longer lever might help too. Thanks though cool and good review
Like hard work man just to make a Swiss torch
You need to have your hands at the ends of the handle and your right about the drill being better against the grain
One thing is for sure it was an honest test and the tool is not what they paint it to be. Which shouldn't surprise anyone. Great job!
The operator was the only failed "tool" I saw. 😂
Should have started with a smaller one for a pilot hole.
It would probably be easier to drill a smaller pilot hole first and then drill a big hole.
The drilling is the relatively easy part however the most difficult part is making the doweled end when trying to remove the stick from the eye which is near impossible. The concept is great but reality is this tool takes way too much effort to be useful - and you need to carry decent gloves or you will tear your hands up.
Good to know. I saw a vid recently while doing more research and the guys was definitely having trouble getting the dowel out.
Also wear gloves unless you're already thoroughly calist to resist the blisters that may rear there ugly heads. And don't just keep twisting in one direction ocilate when it gets difficult and continue.
Work smarter. Not harder. 😜
Thanks for reviewing two different models and showing the trials of using new tools. It's worth sharpening for better results. Better quality models, would eventually need sharpening anyway. Today, I got the same 1" model you have. I'll fiddle around with it and see.
I only wished I would have watched this BEFORE I purchased the 1” same one in the video, hopefully it works for me
Ditto, cut firewood yesterday for next year, I’ll try my 1” on it. Plus figure a way to hold the log to be held on place. Wish me luck
@@ABonRMS good luck, let me know how it works.
I like your review Jes👍👍- I have never been a fan of that type Auger.
Should probably fasten the material your working on to something solid like a stump maybe? Increase the handle length perhaps 🤔 I don’t know could ya bring the work to your waist I’m thinking. I don’t know why people do their job on the ground, seems so primitive. I’m no auger expert but I know you need downwards force along with steady and straight accuracy to drill just about anything really
Increasing the handle length doesn't do any good if he continues to choke up on it!
For the love of god 😵💫that was painful to watch the hole way through , im sure you figured it out by now , i like mine
Make yourself a longer handle for more leverage and spread your arms ourt.
Well I’m also disappointed because I just ordered one. 🤷🏻♂️ might just keep my Milwaukee drill and solar charger.
I built a 420m post and rail fence using a brace and bit by hand abd did not struggle anywhere as much as you are!!! get better equipment!!!
I bought one the most expensive ones on Amazon thinking it would be high quality. Nope, cheap junk probably from Chyna
I'm thinking that Amazon is not the best place to find one of these. I think I'll see if I can find a single maker or small team to give my money to instead.
@@RaindanceBushcraft reading all the comments I was hoping you, or someone else would have recommended a high quality auger. I bought one on Amazon and am happy with the few holes I’ve drilled, but would like to test the one I have with a high quality one. I’m sure my 14$ auger wouldn’t be ‘top quality’.
Interesting
It appears the chip in the leading Edge is the problem or at least part of the problem. If you can’t return it perhaps it could be sharpened. What ya got to loose, thanks for the review. I hope you have more luck with the 1” and fresh cut logs
wow
Ну ты даёшь мужик )
Lol idk if you're the guy for this tool
Lo has hecho difícil porque agarras el palo mal, debes agarrarlo de las puntas
Hard to watch....why are you turning with the center of the handle. Use the outside of the handle, it's called leverage 😅
you'd better go lay on the hammock man, get some well deserved relaxation
you got thumbs up for good try !
you need to learn physics at school. Have you heard anything about the lever effect?
use the ends of the handles
Does not seem like it’s very efficient. 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
My utter incompetence at the time was a factor for sure.
I hate to be the one to break it to you but there is nothing wrong with the tools. You need to start working out everyday and eating right. Build some muscle man and a good pair of work boots will help as well.
Well that does it for me, not going to bother with that tool.
Nice test. Love the safety shoes! JK.
A REAL hand powerd Auger is different than a drilling Auger.
It has more to do with the cutting force being easier than lets say the sharpness.
Look at the geometry of a real hand one. its going to be a much slower speed.
These idiots who make adapters to drill aurgers are just wasting your money, time and energy.
Y is this guy talking like Amazon is Walmart. There is very quality stuff. Hand made on amazon
Strength issue here, not a tool issue.
Use on sides only. kinda logical.
God bless you, but you disappointed yourself. Not making use of leverage is a bit sad.
Holding it is a big hassle
Log is too dry? Like a monkey f’n a football….
I appreciate the video, but you're in shorts with a hatchet, and I didn't see a tourniquet. Get one and learn to use it. You never know when you could hit your leg and cause a self inflicted injury. Otherwise, fairly informative. Keep at it!
Perhaps an electric drill would do the job quicker
Yup, kwiker, just like my electric woodstove 🥴👍.