Wanted to drop a quick note to let you know I really appreciate you taking the time to record, edit and post these videos. Undoubtedly doing so adds hours to the time it takes to complete your projects. Your videos have allowed me to change out the transmission on my daughters Ford Escape, as well as the transmission on my Edge saving me many thousands of dollars in repairs. Thank you!!! MW
I just watched the video very helpful I was quoted over $1,000 to replace it by a Certified mechanic then after seeing the video and checking what the parts costs I'm going to save five to $600 in labor after trying and seeing you try to get that rack-and-pinion out at first I said no then you took off the subframe and everything was right there so I'm going to try to tackle it myself with my two boys and daughter thanks for that video wish me luck
Turn an 8 hour repair into a 1hr repair. Take the 2 star nuts off the steering spiral gear box ( top assembly that sticks out of rack that attaches to steering arm) pops right out. You just shaved off 5". Now slide out old rack. Detach spiral gear assembly from new rack. Slide new rack in and reattach spiral gear box with 2 star nuts and bobs your uncle!
OMG, thank you so much for this video. I haven’t watched it yet but I’ve had this problem forever, but never took the project on. I had the problem you had but fixed it by switching to valvoline maxlife atf. 50k miles later the play in the rack itself is a safety concern for me. The play in the wheel is pretty bad, car doesn’t track straight cornering is poor, cv axle is starting to complain on rare occasions. I’ve got over 250k miles on my edge and hope you get even more out of yours.
Yes the rack really was not all that bad once I firgured out exactly how to tackle it . It seemed like alot of work but was not too difficult. One thing I had found was there was no information anywhere on the rack replacement atleast that I came across. Anyways figured this video could help the next person get it done quicker. This rack and pinion was leaking massive amounts of fluid and what I found was the pump had also burned out because of it. I have another video on replacing the power steering pump. Thank you for the feedback and thanks for watching
s33therfan Do you think there are any adjustments I can make to the rack housing to stabilize the rack? I’m going to take a closer look to see if the movement isn’t coming from an external bushing. If not I’ll use your video to remove the sub frame and rack.
The rack itself would not be moving as its bolted down and loctited pretty good. Now the inner or outer tie rods could have slack and youd feel that in the steering. Theres other parts like the stabilizer links stablizer bushings , control arms and ball joints that could be loose. Alot of times the rattling comes from the stabilzer links. Thanks again
You know if you removed the stylized link you can rotate the torsion bar over then side rack out... you may require to lower the rear sub fram volts to give more wiggle room you just may need to keep rotating rack to clear the steel lines
@@s33therfan we did it today, went better than I expected. Had the same problem with the stabilizer links. I also managed to snap one of the bolts that the sub frame uses to mount to the body, have a dealer tracking one down for me. One of my lines is leaking too, but that's an easy fix in comparison to today
I am about to try and slide it out. just got to disconnect it from the steering now and im gonna see if it’s possible without dropping the frame myself😂
Hi there ..when u remove the power steering return line do u need to drop anything to remove it? I been looking and cant seem to find they back spot where it goes....
No problem. The return line usually connects with a 3/8 rubber line/metal line over on the passenger front of the subframe in 2 places . You will remove a clamp and push the hoses off and have a drip pan for some of the power steering fluid. This is usually the the case on most because you have a line going into the cooler and other returning. With these disconnected it will drop down . Excellent question and thank you for watching.
Very good possibility . You can check for fluid leakage at the boots , also you can check the tie rods inner and outer for slack. If the rack is not leaking and seems to steer smoothly , you may just need to replace the inner and outer tie rods. Thanks for watching.
Strut bearings is what causes that noise. They are mounted on top of the strut. They fill with dirt and grit causing rough conditions. The pop/clunk is the spring popping
Ya this is a good video I have to do one my self shops wanting 1500 to change it from what it looks like to me we should of been able to remove the sway bar an that should give it enough room to get out but meh
Thats what I was hoping for myself but then everything was too tight . It seems like alot dropping that subframe but its not bad on the plus side. The job goes real easy once its down. Another thing that works well is a movers dolly( $11 at harbor freight) , once dropped down on that it rolls out easy . Best of luck on how you decide to tackle it. Thank you for watching and the great feedback.
Leave it to Ford to make this complicated shit. I've owned 2 fords And I have had to work on both of them along with a few more. I will never touch a Ford again. Something as easy as a fuel pump turned into special tools, an overhead lift and several hours. My Mopar was 2 bolts and about 10 minutes. I never went back.
Thank you very much for the feedback , it is greatly appreciated. This information can helps others determine if they want to tackle this project themselves. I usually do not have quotes because I do all the work myself , however I get a lot of comments asking what the job would cost. I would encourage others to share this information as well , thanks again.
I want to personally thank you for taking the time to film edit post this video huge help huge hero thank you
Thank you very much for the terrific feedback.
Wanted to drop a quick note to let you know I really appreciate you taking the time to record, edit and post these videos. Undoubtedly doing so adds hours to the time it takes to complete your projects. Your videos have allowed me to change out the transmission on my daughters Ford Escape, as well as the transmission on my Edge saving me many thousands of dollars in repairs. Thank you!!! MW
Great job on doing these replacements . I really appreciate the kind words and feedback. Thank you very much for watching.
Extremely well done. You took the time for every step for the novice to fully understand the process. Excellent!!
Thank you for the excellent feedback , it is much appreciated.
Thanks for posting this video! My son and I replaced the rack on his Edge last weekend. Wouldn't have attempted it without this video. Thanks again!
Thank you for the great feedback and thanks for watching.
I just watched the video very helpful I was quoted over $1,000 to replace it by a Certified mechanic then after seeing the video and checking what the parts costs I'm going to save five to $600 in labor after trying and seeing you try to get that rack-and-pinion out at first I said no then you took off the subframe and everything was right there so I'm going to try to tackle it myself with my two boys and daughter thanks for that video wish me luck
Thank you , glad all went smoothly.
Thanks for making this video. Never knew the rack was leaking until i went to change inner tie rods.. boots were full of fluid.. 😮
Anything u would have done differently..
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
I would probably tackle it the same way. Thanks for the question.
Turn an 8 hour repair into a 1hr repair. Take the 2 star nuts off the steering spiral gear box ( top assembly that sticks out of rack that attaches to steering arm) pops right out. You just shaved off 5". Now slide out old rack. Detach spiral gear assembly from new rack. Slide new rack in and reattach spiral gear box with 2 star nuts and bobs your uncle!
I wŕench a lot so it took me 40 mins
This isn't talked about by Ford or any youtube video but I have been doing this for years. Dealerships don't want to tell you all their secrets lol
Thanks for sharing this information , much appreciated.
@@jlang4492 can you get the spiral gear box off to change the input seal?
@@barryrhyno3190 following
Have you attempted to try it ?
And I just wanted to and thank you for how specific you were explaining everything that you did that made me want to try to do it myself
Thank you very much for the great feedback.
Thank you for the video! Made me feel confident about doing this work on my wife's car.
Thank you for the great feedback I appreciate it. I hope all goes smoothly on yours . Thanks for watching.
OMG, thank you so much for this video. I haven’t watched it yet but I’ve had this problem forever, but never took the project on. I had the problem you had but fixed it by switching to valvoline maxlife atf. 50k miles later the play in the rack itself is a safety concern for me. The play in the wheel is pretty bad, car doesn’t track straight cornering is poor, cv axle is starting to complain on rare occasions. I’ve got over 250k miles on my edge and hope you get even more out of yours.
Yes the rack really was not all that bad once I firgured out exactly how to tackle it . It seemed like alot of work but was not too difficult. One thing I had found was there was no information anywhere on the rack replacement atleast that I came across. Anyways figured this video could help the next person get it done quicker. This rack and pinion was leaking massive amounts of fluid and what I found was the pump had also burned out because of it. I have another video on replacing the power steering pump. Thank you for the feedback and thanks for watching
s33therfan Do you think there are any adjustments I can make to the rack housing to stabilize the rack? I’m going to take a closer look to see if the movement isn’t coming from an external bushing. If not I’ll use your video to remove the sub frame and rack.
The rack itself would not be moving as its bolted down and loctited pretty good. Now the inner or outer tie rods could have slack and youd feel that in the steering. Theres other parts like the stabilizer links stablizer bushings , control arms and ball joints that could be loose. Alot of times the rattling comes from the stabilzer links. Thanks again
You know if you removed the stylized link you can rotate the torsion bar over then side rack out... you may require to lower the rear sub fram volts to give more wiggle room you just may need to keep rotating rack to clear the steel lines
good vid man. next time just disconnect the sway bar links(top) and roll the sway bar as far as it goes up and BOOOOOOOM!
thanks, this is wonderful! you have a lot of patience.
Many thanks!
I watched the whole video, pretty helpful, congrats you got it 👍.
How many days took the entire process?
Good job.
I spent 2 afternoons . I probably could have easily knocked it out in one day with an early start. Thanks for watching .
Thanks for this video, tackling mine later this week.
Thank you for the feedback I appreciate it and thanks for watching.
@@s33therfan we did it today, went better than I expected. Had the same problem with the stabilizer links. I also managed to snap one of the bolts that the sub frame uses to mount to the body, have a dealer tracking one down for me. One of my lines is leaking too, but that's an easy fix in comparison to today
Did your new rack and pinion last? Looks like you used a Detroit Axle rack. I don't here good things about their parts, warrenty and customer service.
Wow what a video. I have a slight rattle 1000-1500 rpm I’m thinking it’s got to be a heat shield or chain tensioner
I hope you get this figured out quickly. Thank you for watching.
Carpenter hammer for a car is crazy
Also the sway bar nuts are welded to the frame so you have to loosen from up top
@@spacemanspiff9371 That's right
Hopefully 🙏 you never have to change your water💧 pump inside the engine...
Looks like might need to grease slide pins on caliper based on uneven wear on the rotor
I am about to try and slide it out. just got to disconnect it from the steering now and im gonna see if it’s possible without dropping the frame myself😂
Hope all goes smoothly , thanks for the feedback.
Thank you! Dealing with stripped banjo bolt hole myself. AAAAAAAAGHHHHHH!
Definitely aggravating , hope the rest goes smoothly. Thanks for watching.
Did u have to support engine with ra k out
No , I did not have to support the engine. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video
Thank you very much for watching.
Good Mechanic I should of watched beforehand 😁😄Its done though
Hi there ..when u remove the power steering return line do u need to drop anything to remove it? I been looking and cant seem to find they back spot where it goes....
No problem. The return line usually connects with a 3/8 rubber line/metal line over on the passenger front of the subframe in 2 places . You will remove a clamp and push the hoses off and have a drip pan for some of the power steering fluid. This is usually the the case on most because you have a line going into the cooler and other returning. With these disconnected it will drop down . Excellent question and thank you for watching.
Thank you
Is it electronic power steeering rack and pinion that i would need for the 2010 ford edge
It is hydraulic power steering. Thanks for watching.
Hi
I need to know if I can replace my Ford edge 2008 rack by 2011 rack ?
A 2007-2014 should be the same. Thanks for your question.
Does this fix the clunk when turning all the way without driving? I’ve changed all suspension except this man bar.
Very good possibility . You can check for fluid leakage at the boots , also you can check the tie rods inner and outer for slack. If the rack is not leaking and seems to steer smoothly , you may just need to replace the inner and outer tie rods. Thanks for watching.
Strut bearings is what causes that noise.
They are mounted on top of the strut.
They fill with dirt and grit causing rough conditions. The pop/clunk is the spring popping
Ya this is a good video I have to do one my self shops wanting 1500 to change it from what it looks like to me we should of been able to remove the sway bar an that should give it enough room to get out but meh
Thats what I was hoping for myself but then everything was too tight . It seems like alot dropping that subframe but its not bad on the plus side. The job goes real easy once its down. Another thing that works well is a movers dolly( $11 at harbor freight) , once dropped down on that it rolls out easy . Best of luck on how you decide to tackle it. Thank you for watching and the great feedback.
If anyone wants to know, getting the rack out n back in WITHOUT dropping the subframe Is completely possible.
By just rotating, or?
im bouta find out for myself
where did u get this part? I need it
Includes the outer tie rods also. Thanks for watching.
amzn.to/3zCt6h2
Leave it to Ford to make this complicated shit. I've owned 2 fords And I have had to work on both of them along with a few more. I will never touch a Ford again. Something as easy as a fuel pump turned into special tools, an overhead lift and several hours. My Mopar was 2 bolts and about 10 minutes. I never went back.
Best comment award. 🏆 👍
Most front end work will be like this, not just a ford thing.
@@TFShaw 😆😆
if ya would of took off sway bar link you could just retate them out of your way
What's the labor time?
Well the best I remember I spent a good 8 hours on this. Great question and thanks for watching.
@@s33therfan ProDemand calls for 4.4 hours.
Just paid $913 to get this done on my 2007 Edge
Thank you very much for the feedback , it is greatly appreciated. This information can helps others determine if they want to tackle this project themselves. I usually do not have quotes because I do all the work myself , however I get a lot of comments asking what the job would cost. I would encourage others to share this information as well , thanks again.
Was that parts and labor?