Snare Beds, Deep vs Standard ones: Tuesdays @ Noon #65
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2024
- Hey gang,
This week I talk a bit more about Snare Beds. Also, I adjust the ridiculously deep beds I cut last week.
Here's some more random links to all things Schinbein Drum Co;
www.handbuiltdrums.com
schinbeindrumco
schinbeindrumco
schinbein_drum_co
See you next Tuesday,
Phil Schinbein
Ahhh, snares... Surely the design point is to spread the load equally between each strand across the entire head? That's why I use the outer string holes rather than the central strap hole, but it does take some setting up.I have some ideas, but wider beds make sense to me. Thanks for this. Cheers from the UK!
Hello. I`ve mad an really cheap snare from the tom parts i had. Cutted shell, lugs, rims heads. Just bought an snares and throw-off for it
It tunes fine, but the snares...
They just don`t sound. How tight you don`t tight them. It does not has an bearing edge on a snare side and it does not have any of the snare beds. Would it help if i would cut an the bearing edge and the snare beds?
You need snare beds. Even very shallow ones will drastically help. Start 2mm deep and wider than the end plates on your wires and go from there.
hi - i don't understand what they are for - it seems like the snares will lay flat without a snare bed - the strings hang over the head a bit and the wires lay flat. I have a supraphonic and i see no snare beds - or are they very subtle? Thanks for any insight ...
I can guarantee your Supra has snare beds. Next time you swap out your snare side head you can check it out quite easily. With the head, hoop and wires off, lay it on something flat and then shine a flashlight around inside the shell. You need snare beds. They make it so that the wires lay flat against the head by creating a little trench in which they can lie. Without beds, the end plates on your wires will push them away from the head.
@@schinbeindrumco What does it sound like without them? And it seems like the would lie flat anyway - since they are attached to strings or a strap that contours over the edge - the snares don't go from edge to edge.
It’s because the snares don’t go edge to edge that you need beds. With the tension points being around the circumference, the middle is at a different tension from the edges. Lowering part of the edge changes the tension across the head allowing for a relatively even tension between the beds in a small channel in which the wires can lay.
Without it, the snares respond very well. A little too much. You'll have a very sensitive drum at ppp but it will lack of precision, and you'll experiment A LOT OF BUZZ ! On the contrary, a snare drum with a deep snare bed will be very precise, clean but difficult to roll, cause it gives a very short shot.
The snare bed on a Yamaha Billy Cobham snare is 2.4 mm. 2.7 on an Absolute hybrid but the snare is a 24 wires and still makes a lot of buzz, so I replaced it by a 20 wires, and no more buzz with the toms.
Yes! thank you.
I have to respectfully disagree with the two points you make about the snare beds needing to be "as wide or wider than your snare wires" and that the snare bed needs to be "perfectly flat".
As far as snare bed width is concerned, your snare wires shouldn't be making contact with the bearing edge at all. Most snare wires are short enough that they, when properly centered, will only contact the head and not any part of the shell or bearing edge. Because of this, the snare bed needs to only be as wide as the strip used to connect the snare wires to the strainer/butt plate. It doesn't matter how wide or narrow your snare wires are, as long as the snare bed is wide enough to accommodate the strip that holds them to the strainer/butt plate, you should be fine. Again this assumes, that your snare wires don't contact the shell or bearing edge at all (they are not supposed to).
Also, I have several high end wood snares, and none of the snare beds are "perfectly flat". They are done with a very slight arc. It's almost difficult to notice sometimes. Placing it on a counter top with good lighting overhead is the easiest way to see it. In any case, all the major companies cut with a very slight, rounded arc. There is no point on any of the drums I have where the snare bed or bearing edge is completely flat.
Interesting. The flatness bit is intriguing. I've always done them flat more to ensure that the snares themselves will sit flat. I suppose so long as the apex is flat relative to the head it would work out properly. You are however (in my experience) incorrect about the width of the beds, sort of... The snare bed itself makes a very shallow little trench across the head in which the wires actually sit. While it is possible to get wires thinner than your beds to sit properly if the beds are too narrow, it is much easier to get it in there properly with a wider bed. Moot if you're using old school gut though of course. I shoot do a shootout narrow vs wide beds with the same snare drum...
@@schinbeindrumco No disrespect intended, (honestly) but it's this " HAS TO BE THIS WAY " approach/mentality so many commenters have that make me want to hurl hammers. It's no different than trying to explain to someone that the earth revolves around the Sun and not the other way round. For Sir Joey Drums, I would highly suggest ye' go educate yerself on the finer aspects of drumming from the days of Yore when companies like .. Slingerland and Ludwig were not afraid to experiment and try new ways of using snare wire, beds and things like that of absurdly new design. Not to mention, if your logic was based in reality, there would be zero concert snare drums for symphony orchestra. (and saying this was meant for rock snares only will earn you -50 points.) Go look up a SuperSensitive from Ludwig, or shit!! Even a Pearl Free-Floating snare! This myth that snares should never contact the bearing edge ( and I'm assuming you mean across the bearing edge enough that the snares are sitting right over it ) is incorrect. Holy Sharks #2! Neil Peart's Slingerland Artist series snare had a special butt plate that brought an extra long set of snare wires clear past the shell on one side!!! Arrgh! Everyone's an expert until they realize the sun shining in their face on the drive home is an ACTUAL FREAKING STAR. Cheers.
@@remotexpolde Fantastic! You're correct in saying that there are as many different ways to mount wires under a snare drum as there are snare drum designs; well, snare throw-off designs I guess. I've spent years repairing and modding out all kinds of drums. I've taken apart, worked on, and reassembled just about every kind of snare drum imaginable. As much as we all venerate the classics; Ludwig, Slingerland, etc back in the day it was the wild west man. They just did whatever seemed close enough to get the drum out the door. Beds and edges were all cut by hand as quickly as possible. Especially Ludwig in the late '60's, Ringo went on Sullivan and demand exploded through the ceiling. I've seen some shockingly bad Ludwigs from that era that still sounded great. I think we all put too much focus on the minutiae of design and not enough on the basic simple fact that most people, drummers included, do not know or even care about how it works; just THAT it works. This video was a quick little exploration of the difference between the same bed profile in two different depths that I honestly did because the router bit slipped and cut the bed too deep in one spot so I finished it at that depth, re-assembled the drum and gave it a whack before cutting the entire shell down by about 5mm and redoing the bed correctly. I love this discourse by the way, it is always good to get in to it with someone who legitimately knows what they're talking about!
@@schinbeindrumco I both heart and approve of this comment ;) Thanks So Much man! Yeah, I was fascinated at what you had going on there. I am neck deep in all of this currently as I have been researching every last pebble of info on Peart's old faithful Slingerland Artist... ((The snare tone on Presto and RTB just Get me. Finally pulled the rip cord ;) Got a 5.5" 3 Ply Maple/Poplar shell with
a B a r e l y there snare bed to do with as I please and an Artist-series snare butt extension. with 15" snares- and am now researching every last bearing edge (for a 'Snare' - which is Not easy as most are talking toms ...grrrr...) on how best to cut for straight up sensitivity and attack. Both bottom and top come into play here so brain is turning into a pile of gummy bears - but will make it happen ;) Anyway, Thanks very much for the compliment. It is equally refreshing on my end as well. Cheers!!! Stay safe and LOUD!
Some drums have no beds and sound ok, don’t even buzz much. I think it’s based on a lot of variables. But I would cut them. EVERY builder big or small company cuts snare beds for the reasons presented in the video. Just look them up. Every Ludwig or joyful noise metal shell has crimped beds. You can see them!!!! You know better than them? Doubt it. Don’t cut them, but it’s a gamble, might have issues, might not.