This is a great video! I did timing on my IS300 (2JZ-GE) a couple of years ago and was a little confused about this procedure. In particular, the FSM for the IS300 mentions that the timing should first be set to TDC where the crank and cam TDC markings are lined up properly. After pointing out that the engine should not be rotated counter-clockwise ("NOTICE: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.", the FSM then indicates that the crankshaft should be rotated 60 degrees counter-clockwise to the sub-timing mark, indicating 60 degrees BTDC. This will also move the cam pulleys to their 30 degree BTDC sub-timing marks. The FSM then goes on to state that doing so will prevent piston-valve contact should one of the camshafts spin (e.g. during removal of the cam pulley bolt) after the timing belt is removed. ("NOTICE: If the timing belt is disengaged, having the crankshaft pulley at the wrong angle can cause the piston head and valve head to come into contact with each other when you remove the camshaft timing pulleys (steps 13 and 19), thus resulting damage. So, always set the crankshaft pulley at the correct angle." When I changed the belt, I followed this exact procedure, and despite accidentally spinning the exhaust camshaft during pulley removal, the T-belt job went fine. But of course, this would put all the slack on the VVTi/intake pulley. I had to keep this in mind when putting that pulley back on and torquing it to 60 ft lbs. I see people timing to the sub-timing (30/60 BTDC) marks all the time, but they all seem to arrive there by rotating the crank clockwise and not doing the reverse procedure. If you don't do the reversing step to move the crank to 30 degrees BTDC, it seems like the intake camshaft would be off by 30 degrees and this might cause damage when removing the cam pulleys. Just curious about your thoughts on this procedure as written in the FSM?
so you timed your car according to the FSM and did the backwards thing? I am tempted to do what most tutorials are doing, and simply just time it at TDC. any recommendations as I do my timing this Weekend?
Thank you so much for this video, the first time I tried to do my timing belt and water pump on my 2005 is300 (2jz-ge) I ended up having slack on the right side of the timing belt and on startup it bent 4 of my intake valves. Got the head redone by a mechanic buddy, used the one tooth over trick to ensure the belt had no slack on any side and now I'm back on the road. Really wish i had found this video a few months back.
@@PowerDynamix true, however I have to pull the motor anyway. The oil pump failed, as well as cracked main caps. Gonna replace with billet main caps and a PHR billet timing belt gear.
@@PowerDynamix I'm overseas, got a bunch of machine shops local to me. Btw I just uploaded my latest video and used a 10 second snippet from your video in it. Hope you don't mind 😅
They need to be pointing straight up within 1 or 2 teeth before you start. Make sure that the crank is at least 1 or 2 teeth back so the piston is down in the bore a bit before you start messing with the cams.
Thanks for this guys true ledge, just finishing up a build for my friend wanted to double check the vearable cam timing set up. thanks for video kind regards kennyboys kustoms down under in australia......
I get the dots are subtiming marks but im confused as to what using them does. Does the intake gear slack at tdc end up able to move equal amounts in equal direction before affecting cam? When your using the timing marks is all the intake gear travel in one direction ie counter clockwise when putting belt on?
First time for everything I guess. I wish I had paid attention while doing the job or watched this video first. Pretty sure I just bent some valves on this GE motor not taking the slack out of the vvti gear🤦🏻♂️ I took the belt off and put the gear on correctly but I still have misfires on 1,4,5 and 6.
Supper helpfull!!! I do got a question, I got a 92 sc300 and it’s Sappose to be ge NON-VVTI but it gots the VVTI solenoid on the head. I’ve heard of these motors on forums and have seen some make it easy to upgrade. Have you ever heard of this?
Hey Jeff! In the pass couple of wks I've been reading a lot about you/ the guides and help on the forums! I hope you can point me in the right direction. So I bought is300 and the seller failed to mention that the car was throwing a code p1346. So I've changed the vvti solenoid and the tiny filter just to make sure it wasn't that. As well as replacing the timing belt and made sure it was timed correctly. However, im still getting the code! Any help? Thank you in advance!
Check the wiring in that case. Make sure no breaks on the wire and make sure the connector is tight and not cracked. If both are ok then use a multimeter to test the wires, and make sure they have continuity.
Hi, I’m doing timing belt on a 2004 is300 2jz-GE and the vvti gear does not stop at the mark. It spins about 15 degrees both sides what should I do? Help please. 5:49
Turn the gear to the left past the 15 degrees until you get all the slack out. You should then be able to have the gear stop on the mark when turning right.
i forgot and accidentally tried to remove the vvti pulley with an air gun i stopped but did and removed it with a torque wench, my timing is off on the intake camshaft but the exhaust timing is fine, did i damage anything? 2jzGE.
Fairly simple to get to inside the car still. Just pull out the radiator and fan assembly. Just two 12mm nuts, disconnect fan connector, and radiator hoses. Should take all of 5 minutes to do including draining the coolant(which should be done if you are going to change the water pump unless you plan on making a huge mess).
@@PowerDynamix do you need to take the valve cover off to do so? On my sc300, 2jz-ge, the intake passes over the valve cover, wasnt sure if i had to take that off too...
I really don't understand why 90% of the TH-cam videos do NOT follow the service manual!! The engine should not be set at TDC!!! Bringing it back a tooth is a joke and not per the manual. LMAO at this video
It's to help relieve the slack in the belt. You can do it by the book and have a harder time putting the belt on and getting the timing correct. Just a little shortcut. You go to school as a child and follow the teachers directions because it's the first time you are doing it. After doing it 1000 times you don't think you find a way that helps make things easier?
@@PowerDynamix piece of cake to follow the service manual!! Set engine at 60BTDC, cams on the dots, check the vvti rotates 30 CCW and the belt goes on easy with slack in the tensioner side. LMAO at the video and hack mechanics.
@@jdub6797 yes very great we know you can follow the service manual. So how does the service manual tell you to time it without the timing cover and crank pulley on there? How are you going to set it 30 degrees back without the crank pulley on there? You could use a degree wheel and dial indicator, but most people don't have that. The timing gear on the crank only has the tdc mark. Also have you installed it with a kevlar racing belt? Those have a lot more tension and require you to compensate for the slack in the belt. What about with aftermarket ATI damper, or a race engine with a billet front cover? This is a general guide for people to do it via the timing gear directly. I've done over 1000 of these 2jz. Please report back when you have built at least 100 engines making more than 1200hp. Thanks for watching.
@@PowerDynamix LMAO with you trying to justify not doing the timing belt correctly. The timing gear on the crank has a mark for 60BTDC. That is your starting point and the cam gear align to the dots. Again LMAO at this video and replies from hack mechanics!!
This is a great video! I did timing on my IS300 (2JZ-GE) a couple of years ago and was a little confused about this procedure. In particular, the FSM for the IS300 mentions that the timing should first be set to TDC where the crank and cam TDC markings are lined up properly. After pointing out that the engine should not be rotated counter-clockwise ("NOTICE: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.", the FSM then indicates that the crankshaft should be rotated 60 degrees counter-clockwise to the sub-timing mark, indicating 60 degrees BTDC. This will also move the cam pulleys to their 30 degree BTDC sub-timing marks. The FSM then goes on to state that doing so will prevent piston-valve contact should one of the camshafts spin (e.g. during removal of the cam pulley bolt) after the timing belt is removed. ("NOTICE: If the timing belt is disengaged, having the crankshaft pulley at the wrong angle can cause the piston head and valve head to come into contact with each other when you remove the camshaft timing pulleys (steps 13 and 19), thus resulting damage. So, always set the crankshaft pulley at the correct angle." When I changed the belt, I followed this exact procedure, and despite accidentally spinning the exhaust camshaft during pulley removal, the T-belt job went fine. But of course, this would put all the slack on the VVTi/intake pulley. I had to keep this in mind when putting that pulley back on and torquing it to 60 ft lbs.
I see people timing to the sub-timing (30/60 BTDC) marks all the time, but they all seem to arrive there by rotating the crank clockwise and not doing the reverse procedure. If you don't do the reversing step to move the crank to 30 degrees BTDC, it seems like the intake camshaft would be off by 30 degrees and this might cause damage when removing the cam pulleys. Just curious about your thoughts on this procedure as written in the FSM?
so you timed your car according to the FSM and did the backwards thing? I am tempted to do what most tutorials are doing, and simply just time it at TDC. any recommendations as I do my timing this Weekend?
You guys are some real ones for helping Murda out, good shit.
Glad to see new stuff from you Jeff. Now we need Mo back in the game
Thank you so much for this video, the first time I tried to do my timing belt and water pump on my 2005 is300 (2jz-ge) I ended up having slack on the right side of the timing belt and on startup it bent 4 of my intake valves. Got the head redone by a mechanic buddy, used the one tooth over trick to ensure the belt had no slack on any side and now I'm back on the road. Really wish i had found this video a few months back.
@@navubu I'm glad our video helped you out!
This one video answered the question I had on the intake cam gear position for my 2JZ-GE engine. Thanks so much!
Great Video, Jeff. This should help all the people that wait 150k miles to do this job LOL
Yeah, hopefully this will help people will stop bending all their valves when doing a timing belt job. We can fix it though if you do lol
Glad you started making 2JZ content again. I appreciate the detail in your videos, it helps for future projects. Thanks!!
Brilliant video, short and simple with enough information to do the job, mine needs doing soon
this answered soooo many questions....currently doing the timing belt on my IS
Great instructional video!
Hello so very grateful that your showing us how to do this but I have a quick question.
where did you get those pink cam gears, i cant find them anywhere
They are painted stock cam gearz
Excellent video. 4:40 my non-vvti crank gear separated and now I'm pulling my motor :(
We can reweld the gear back together if you need it fixed.
@@PowerDynamix true, however I have to pull the motor anyway. The oil pump failed, as well as cracked main caps. Gonna replace with billet main caps and a PHR billet timing belt gear.
@@DeanBKK let me know if you need the block line bore and machined. We offer those services as well.
@@PowerDynamix I'm overseas, got a bunch of machine shops local to me. Btw I just uploaded my latest video and used a 10 second snippet from your video in it. Hope you don't mind 😅
@@DeanBKKok sure no problem, just tag us. Link me to the video when you post it so we can give it a like.
Great vid for timing mark position of cam gears.. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!!
Can you elaborate on what position the cams are suppose to be in before timing work?
They need to be pointing straight up within 1 or 2 teeth before you start. Make sure that the crank is at least 1 or 2 teeth back so the piston is down in the bore a bit before you start messing with the cams.
Thanks for explaining. Would love some more gs300 content.
Very informative and great video Jeff!
Glad to help! 👍
@@PowerDynamixThis work applies to an engine 2jzge vvti??
Thanks for this guys true ledge, just finishing up a build for my friend wanted to double check the vearable cam timing set up. thanks for video kind regards kennyboys kustoms down under in australia......
Did you get that vvti gear ceracoted I was gonna get my vvti gear cover anodized as to make it match the his adjustable gear
Is the VVTI gear powdercoated? if so is the outer part just polished or coated too?
Thx
Where did you get the purple vvti Cam gear?
They sell it, comes with new cam gear o ring.
@@urot where though?
@@brauliomoncada4581 his website, hint: channel name
I get the dots are subtiming marks but im confused as to what using them does. Does the intake gear slack at tdc end up able to move equal amounts in equal direction before affecting cam? When your using the timing marks is all the intake gear travel in one direction ie counter clockwise when putting belt on?
HOw do you rotate the engine counter clockwise? Even just one tooth? You cant use the crank pulley bolt because it wont remain tightly threaded.
You never rotate it counter clockwise
First time for everything I guess. I wish I had paid attention while doing the job or watched this video first. Pretty sure I just bent some valves on this GE motor not taking the slack out of the vvti gear🤦🏻♂️
I took the belt off and put the gear on correctly but I still have misfires on 1,4,5 and 6.
You ever figure it out?
👊👊👊
Supper helpfull!!! I do got a question, I got a 92 sc300 and it’s Sappose to be ge NON-VVTI but it gots the VVTI solenoid on the head. I’ve heard of these motors on forums and have seen some make it easy to upgrade. Have you ever heard of this?
I subscribed! Please continue with the knowledge!!!! Please talk about your high HP stock auto car.
At 8:07 can i use thread sealer?
Good stuff 👍
Getting code p0016. Ive checked all timing marks, everything checks out. Any ideas what it could be?
Hey Jeff! In the pass couple of wks I've been reading a lot about you/ the guides and help on the forums! I hope you can point me in the right direction. So I bought is300 and the seller failed to mention that the car was throwing a code p1346. So I've changed the vvti solenoid and the tiny filter just to make sure it wasn't that. As well as replacing the timing belt and made sure it was timed correctly. However, im still getting the code! Any help? Thank you in advance!
Check the wiring in that case. Make sure no breaks on the wire and make sure the connector is tight and not cracked. If both are ok then use a multimeter to test the wires, and make sure they have continuity.
Nice , even without the water pump haha
Yes just shot a quick demo video with a bunch of used parts. Engine was waiting for other new parts to come in.
thank you, this helped a lot.
Hi, I’m doing timing belt on a 2004 is300 2jz-GE and the vvti gear does not stop at the mark. It spins about 15 degrees both sides what should I do?
Help please. 5:49
Turn the gear to the left past the 15 degrees until you get all the slack out. You should then be able to have the gear stop on the mark when turning right.
@@PowerDynamix car is running good
Thanks 🙏
i forgot and accidentally tried to remove the vvti pulley with an air gun i stopped but did and removed it with a torque wench, my timing is off on the intake camshaft but the exhaust timing is fine, did i damage anything? 2jzGE.
Would a gte block with a 1.5 tomie headgasket and a ge vvti head be interference
Yes, that will make it non-interference as long as you're still running stock camshafts.
You’re using a specific socket to tighten the vvti gear, what is that?
Inner bolt is a 10mm Allen. Outer cap is a 14mm Allen.
did you painted those gears or are they aftermarket?
its a service he sells, they paint your gear you send them
No torque specs for the Vvti gear???
61ft/lb for the 10mm hex Allen bolt.
@@PowerDynamix thank you 🙏🏼
@@PowerDynamix is there any other torque specs I should know? I can’t seem to find a guide anywhere
I did the timing exact to this on my 2004 lexus gs300 2jzge and now car doesn't run right I've checked timing a dozen times
Did you fix it?
Nice, someone do the steps on detail, sir you got like .
👍
Dude I did this and bent every intake valve
Fucking legend! Appreciate this 🙏
Looks pretty simple, however getting to it in a car is another story lol
Fairly simple to get to inside the car still. Just pull out the radiator and fan assembly. Just two 12mm nuts, disconnect fan connector, and radiator hoses. Should take all of 5 minutes to do including draining the coolant(which should be done if you are going to change the water pump unless you plan on making a huge mess).
@@PowerDynamix do you need to take the valve cover off to do so? On my sc300, 2jz-ge, the intake passes over the valve cover, wasnt sure if i had to take that off too...
I wish I found this video
I really don't understand why 90% of the TH-cam videos do NOT follow the service manual!! The engine should not be set at TDC!!! Bringing it back a tooth is a joke and not per the manual.
LMAO at this video
It's to help relieve the slack in the belt. You can do it by the book and have a harder time putting the belt on and getting the timing correct. Just a little shortcut.
You go to school as a child and follow the teachers directions because it's the first time you are doing it. After doing it 1000 times you don't think you find a way that helps make things easier?
@@PowerDynamix piece of cake to follow the service manual!! Set engine at 60BTDC, cams on the dots, check the vvti rotates 30 CCW and the belt goes on easy with slack in the tensioner side.
LMAO at the video and hack mechanics.
@@jdub6797 yes very great we know you can follow the service manual. So how does the service manual tell you to time it without the timing cover and crank pulley on there? How are you going to set it 30 degrees back without the crank pulley on there? You could use a degree wheel and dial indicator, but most people don't have that.
The timing gear on the crank only has the tdc mark. Also have you installed it with a kevlar racing belt? Those have a lot more tension and require you to compensate for the slack in the belt. What about with aftermarket ATI damper, or a race engine with a billet front cover? This is a general guide for people to do it via the timing gear directly. I've done over 1000 of these 2jz. Please report back when you have built at least 100 engines making more than 1200hp. Thanks for watching.
@@PowerDynamix LMAO with you trying to justify not doing the timing belt correctly.
The timing gear on the crank has a mark for 60BTDC. That is your starting point and the cam gear align to the dots. Again LMAO at this video and replies from hack mechanics!!
Great Video brother good job keep it up 👍